Monday, July 26

Morning cloudy and pleasant. The brethren commenced plowing early,

others are gone to planting, etc., and the brethren appear to feel

well. Some of the sick have been to bathe in one of the hot springs

and pronounce the effects wonderfully beneficial. Others are going

this morning to try the same experiment. Another company are gone to

make a road to the timber through a ravine a little north of this.

About ten o'clock, President Young sent me a horse with instructions

to join him and some others going on a short exploring expedition.

I immediately started and found the company consisted of President

Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith, Benson, Richards

and Carrington. We took a course northward passing by the land where

the brethren are plowing and planting. The land indeed looks rich and

light. About three-quarters of a mile north of the camp, we arrived on

a beautiful table land, level and nicely sloping to the west. Here we

halted to view it and the more we viewed, the better we were satisfied

that it is as handsome a place for a city as can be imagined. At the

east part there is a considerable creek of clear cold water descending

from the mountains and just above this place it branches into two

forks, one running northwest, the other southwest, and the two nicely

surrounding this place, and so well arranged that should a city be

built here the water can be turned into every street at pleasure. We

passed on and began to ascend the mountains, the President signifying

a wish to ascend a high peak to the north of us. After some hard toil

and time we succeeded in gaining the summit, leaving our horses about

two-thirds the way up. President Young felt pretty well fatigued when

he got up. Some of the brethren feel like naming this Ensign Peak. From

this place, we had a good view of the Salt Lake and could see that the

waters extend for a great many miles to the north of us. There appears

to be land, although white with salt, all the way to the mountain

on the northwest which we had previously supposed was surrounded by

water. We can see a pretty large stream winding from the south to the

north through the valley but keeping not many miles distant from these

mountains towards the lake. After satisfying ourselves we began to

descend, President Young and Lorenzo, who joined us a while before we

went up, going down on the east side where they were joined by Elders

Woodruff, Benson, and Richards with the horses. Elders Kimball, Smith,

Carrington and myself descended on the northwest corner and found the

descent very lengthy and difficult. These hills are mostly rocky of a

kind of soft stone in some places, in others a harder kind of flint

stone. On arriving on the level again, we wound our way southward to

meet the other brethren and after passing a little way saw one of the

sulphur springs where a pretty large stream of sulphur water boils out

of the rock at the foot of the mountain and thence branches out into

several smaller streams for some distance till these enter a small

lake. This water is about as warm as dish water and very salty. There

is much filthy kind of substance collected on it and the smell arising

from it is truly nauseating and sickly, though generally supposed to

be in no way unhealthy. Elder Kimball left us here on seeing Elder

Woodruff's carriage and the other brethren returning back towards the

camp. In the meantime, Elders Smith, Carrington and myself went lower

down towards the lake in search of some fresh water to quench our

thirst. We found a nice clear stream of cold water but a little way

from the sulphur spring and having drunk of it, we concluded to go

on and see the river which we had noticed from the mountain. We took

nearly a west course and soon struck the old road made by emigrants

last year. We found the land exceedingly rich all along, good grass and

abundance of rushes. We found many wet places but no signs of swamps,

nor danger of miring. After traveling about two miles, we arrived at

the river having followed the road to the ford. This river is about

five rods wide on an average, three and a half feet deep at the ford

but in other places much deeper. The current is slow and the water of

a dark lead color. The banks are about five feet high and the soil to

the water level of a rich, black alluvial. There is no timber on the

banks here and not many willow bushes. We went over the river and found

the soil equally good on the other side. While here we observed Elder

Woodruff's carriage and the brethren again proceeding northward. We

started back to meet them, it being the intention to go to the large,

hot sulphur spring. We could but remark all along, the richness of

the soil and the abundance of high, good looking grass. On arriving

at the foot of the mountain beside another sulphur spring, we saw the

carriage come on to the first spring but apparently judging it unsafe

to cross, they wheeled around and returned back to camp. Elders Smith,

Carrington and myself then concluded to go on and view the big spring

which we found to be about two miles farther. Before arriving at it,

there is a large shoal salt lake and on the banks are numerous sulphur

springs varying in the appearance of the surface and losing themselves

in the lake. There were many plovers on and around this lake. We

arrived at the big spring about four o'clock and making our horses

fast, we went down to where it boils out of the rock. This spring is

also situated at the foot of the mountains and at the base of a large

rock, perpendicular on the west side and gradually losing itself on

the east in the mountain. The spring, as I have said, is at the base

of this rock. There is a circular hole about four feet wide and a yard

high from the top to the surface of the water from whence the water

boils out in a considerable stream. The water itself in the spring

seems to be about two feet deep. There is a rock at the mouth of the

spring where a person can stand and see inside. Standing on this rock

with your face near the mouth of the spring a strong warm sulphurous

air is felt to come in gusts out of the rock and it is so hot that it

requires only a few minutes to start the perspiration. On putting my

hand in the spring, I was startled with the heat and found I could not

bear to hold my hand in five seconds. It is as hot as the hottest dish

water ever used for dishes. Immediately on emerging from the rock, the

water forms a lake about three rods in diameter and evidently pretty

deep. The water is exceedingly clear and nice to look at but very salty

indeed. We could see the water boil up in many parts of the lake. The

water escapes at the north side of the lake at the base of the rock and

there forms a stream about four feet wide and eighteen inches deep. We

concluded we would go down the stream six or eight rods to wash our

feet, naturally expecting the water to be cooler, but on taking off

our boots and socks we found it impossible to hold our feet in it a

moment and could barely wash by dashing the water on with our hands

and suddenly dipping them in and out. It is supposed this would boil

an egg in about ten minutes. At five o'clock we returned back to camp

and supposed that the spring is about four miles distance. We arrived

in camp at six o'clock. The brethren have planted about three acres of

potatoes, some peas, beans, and are now planting four or five acres

of corn. Elder Kimball stated that on returning with the carriage to

the creek near the camp to get some water, he discovered that he had

lost his spy glass. He retraced his steps on foot to the top of the

peak and back without finding it, and on arriving at the bottom he saw

Elders Richards and Benson bathing in one of the warm sulphur springs.

Although wet with perspiration he took off his clothes and plunged in

and found the effects very pleasant and beneficial. After bathing they

started back for camp and but a few rods distance found the glass near

the road. Some of the brethren have commenced making a garden about two

miles to the southeast and indeed their operations and industry are

truly pleasing and noble. The more I view the country, the better I am

satisfied that the Saints can live here and raise abundant crops. Elder

Kimball has kindly offered me a horse to ride and view the country

as much and when I have a mind to while we stay here. This morning

Joseph Mathews and John Brown started west to go to the mountain. They

returned this evening and report that they have been at the foot of

the mountain and judge it to be about sixteen miles distance. They say

the wild sage is very plentiful on the other side the valley, showing

that the land is not so rich there as here. They found a horse, near

the mountain and have brought it to camp, supposed to have strayed from

emigrants who have previously passed this way. Towards sundown heavy

clouds were noticed in the south and southwest. We expected a shower,

but it passed off to the east.

William Clayton's Journal A Daily Record of the Journey of the Original Company of "Mormon" Pioneers from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake · 第 381 / 481 题