This morning is cloudy and some like for rain. We started on at 8:30
and soon came up with Elder Pratt's company. There were several bad
places in the road where the brethren spent considerable time fixing
them. As we near the mouth of the canyon, there is a small grove of
elder bushes in bloom and considerable oak shrubbery. We named this a
canyon because of the very high mountains on each side leaving but a
few rods of a bottom for the creek to pass through and hardly room for
a road. It is evident that the emigrants who passed this way last year
must have spent a great deal of time cutting a road through the thickly
set timber and heavy brush wood. It is reported that they spent sixteen
days in making a road through from Weber River which is thirty-five
miles but as the men did not work a quarter of their time much less
would have sufficed. However, it has taken us over three days after the
road is made although a great many hours have been spent in improving
it. In this thick brush wood and around here there are many very large
rattlesnakes lurking, making it necessary to use caution while passing
through. After traveling one and three-quarters miles, we found the
road crossing the creek again to the north side and then ascending up a
very steep, high hill. It is so very steep as to be almost impossible
for heavy wagons to ascend and so narrow that the least accident might
precipitate a wagon down a bank three or four hundred feet, in which
case it would certainly be dashed to pieces. Colonel Markham and
another man went over the hill and returned up the canyon to see if
a road cannot be cut through and avoid this hill. While passing up,
a bear started near them but soon was out of sight amongst the very
high grass. Brother Markham says a good road can soon be made down the
canyon by digging a little and cutting through the bushes some ten or
fifteen rods. A number of men went to work immediately to make the road
which will be much better than to attempt crossing the hill and will be
sooner done.
Agreeable to President Young's instructions, Elder Pratt accompanied by
George A. Smith, John Brown, Joseph Mathews, John Pack, O.P. Rockwell
and J. C. Little started on this morning on horses to seek out
a suitable place to plant some potatoes, turnips, etc., so as to
preserve the seed at least. While the brethren were cutting the road,
I followed the old one to the top of the hill and on arriving there
was much cheered by a handsome view of the Great Salt Lake lying, as I
should judge, from twenty-five to thirty miles to the west of us; and
at eleven o'clock I sat down to contemplate and view the surrounding
scenery. There is an extensive, beautiful, level looking valley from
here to the lake which I should judge from the numerous deep green
patches must be fertile and rich. The valley extends to the south
probably fifty miles where it is again surrounded by high mountains.
To the southwest across the valley at about twenty to twenty-five
miles distance is a high mountain, extending from the south end of the
valley to about opposite this place where it ceases abruptly leaving a
pleasant view of the dark waters of the lake. Standing on the lake and
about due west there are two mountains and far in the distance another
one which I suppose is on the other side the lake, probably from sixty
to eighty miles distance. To the northwest is another mountain at the
base of which is a lone ridge of what I should consider to be rock salt
from its white and shining appearance. The lake does not show at this
distance a very extensive surface, but its dark blue shade resembling
the calm sea looks very handsome. The intervening valley appears to
be well supplied with streams, creeks and lakes, some of the latter
are evidently salt. There is but little timber in sight anywhere, and
that is mostly on the banks of creeks and streams of water which is
about the only objection which could be raised in my estimation to this
being one of the most beautiful valleys and pleasant places for a home
for the Saints which could be found. Timber is evidently lacking but
we have not expected to find a timbered country. There may be timber
on the mountains which the long distance would render impossible to
be seen with the naked eye, but the mountains through which we have
passed have very little on them. In some places may be seen a grove
of small fir or cedar or pine and in the valleys some cottonwood and
other small timber. There is doubtless timber in all passes and ravines
where streams descend from the mountains. There is no prospect for
building log houses without spending a vast amount of time and labor,
but we can make Spanish brick and dry them in the sun; or we can build
lodges as the Pawnee Indians do in their villages. For my own part I
am happily disappointed in the appearance of the valley of the Salt
Lake, but if the land be as rich as it has the appearance of being, I
have no fears but the Saints can live here and do well while we will
do right. When I commune with my own heart and ask myself whether I
would choose to dwell here in this wild looking country amongst the
Saints surrounded by friends, though poor, enjoying the privileges
and blessings of the everlasting priesthood, with God for our King
and Father; or dwell amongst the gentiles with all their wealth and
good things of the earth, to be eternally mobbed, harassed, hunted,
our best men murdered and every good man's life continually in danger,
the soft whisper echoes loud and reverberates back in tones of stern
determination; give me the quiet wilderness and my family to associate
with, surrounded by the Saints and adieu to the gentile world till God
says return and avenge you of your enemies. If I had my family with me,
how happy could I be, for I dread nothing so much as the journey back
again and when I think of the many dangers from accident which families
traveling this road are continually liable to and especially this last
mountain road from Weber River, it makes me almost shudder to think of
it and I could almost envy those who have got safely through, having
their families with them, yet they will doubtless have a hard time of
it the coming winter. Brother Crow's family especially have very little
bread stuff with them, they say enough to last them two months and they
are dependent on the success of their hunter for support through the
winter. This valley appears to be fortified by mountains, except on the
banks of the lake, on many of which there is still snow lying in large
quantities. It is certain that good limestone abounds in these ridges
and it is supposed coal can be found with little labor. From this hill
I passed down the creek which we named the Last Creek about a mile and
there saw a bed of bull rushes of the largest kind I ever saw, some
of them being fifteen feet high and an inch and a half in diameter
at the bottom. The grass on this creek grows from six to twelve feet
high and appears very rank. There are some ducks around and sand hill
cranes. Many signs of deer, antelope, and bears, but not many have been
seen here. There have been fresh buffalo signs seen a few days' travel
back, but those animals evidently do not stay in this region unless
some come to winter. The ground seems literally alive with the very
large black crickets crawling around up grass and bushes. They look
loathsome but are said to be excellent for fattening hogs which would
feed on them voraciously. The bears evidently live mostly on them at
this season of the year. After spending about four hours' labor the
brethren succeeded in cutting a pretty good road along the creek and
the wagons proceeded on, taking near a southwest course. We found the
last descent even but very rapid all the way. At half past five, we
formed our encampment on a creek supposed to be Brown's Creek, having
traveled seven and a quarter miles today. We are now five and a quarter
miles from the mouth of this canyon making the whole distance of rough
mountain road from the Weber River to the mouth of the canyon on this
side a little less than thirty-five miles and decidedly the worst
piece of road on the whole journey. At this place, the land is black
and looks rich, sandy enough to make it good to work. The grass grows
high and thick on the ground and is well mixed with nice green rushes.
Feed here for our teams is very plentiful and good and the water is
also good. There are many rattlesnakes of a large size in this valley
and it is supposed they have dens in the mountains. The land looks dry
and lacks rain, but the numerous creeks and springs must necessarily
tend to moisten it much. The grass looks rich and good. A while after
we camped, Elder Pratt and company returned and reported that they had
been about fifteen miles north from here and this region is as suitable
a place to put in our seeds as they have seen. Approaching nearer the
lake, the land is mostly sunken and many small lakes in it. A few
miles north of this, is a good spot to break up and plant potatoes,
sow our seeds, etc. There is a little timber on the creek. From twelve
to fifteen miles north at the foot of the mountain they saw many hot
sulphur springs issuing from the rocks, as many as fifty in number.
One of them, the largest, falls out of the rocks and then forms a pool
apparently ten feet deep and a rock is in the center. The water of this
is so hot a person cannot bear his hand in it but a very few seconds.
It is strong of salt and sulphur and the bottom appears green as though
it was covered with verdigris. A council was held at the Doctor's wagon
and it was decided to move early tomorrow to the place designated;
also, to send two men back to the President and company to report our
progress, etc., then to commence forthwith and plow and plant about ten
acres with potatoes this week if possible and thus continue till the
seed is secured. John Pack and Joseph Mathews were selected to return
to President Young's company. The evening was fine and pleasant and the
night feels much warmer than in the ravines of the mountains.