Chapter XVIII.

The Apiarian's Monthly Manual, or Hints for the Management of Bees

for every month in the year upon the Depriving System

96

THE BEE KEEPER'S GUIDE.

CHAPTER I.

_Situation of an Apiary, and directions for placing the Hives._

I have no hesitation in saying, that a South aspect is decidedly

preferable to any other situation for an Apiary. I have tried various

aspects, but the Bees in the South I have always found to be the

healthiest, and to collect the largest quantity of honey. It is very

important that the hives be sheltered from the wind by trees or houses,

and that they are not placed in the vicinity of ponds or large rivers,

for high winds will dash them into the water, where numbers will perish.

It was the opinion of the ancients, that Bees, in windy weather,

carried weights to prevent them from being driven about by it. Virgil

says,

"That with light pebbles, like a balanced boat,

Poised through the air on even pinions float."

Sotherby's Georgics.

This is now ascertained to be erroneous, and is ascribed, by Swammerdam

and Reaumur to preceding observers having mistaken the Mason Bee, for a

Hive Bee; the former builds its nest against a wall, with a composition

of gravel and its own saliva, and when freighted with the former

article, may easily have led a careless observer into the erroneous

opinion alluded to. The Abbe della Rocca appears to have fallen into,

and perpetuated, the same error.

Though large ponds are very injurious, a small stream is beneficial

to them, which if they are not supplied with, water must be given

them, for it is absolutely necessary, and enters, as much as honey and

farina, into the composition with which they nourish the brood. The

plan that I have for many years adopted, is to fill an unglazed earthen

pan, eighteen inches by eight, four inches deep, and square at the

sides, with water, upon the surface of which floats a very thin deal

board perforated with holes, a quarter of an inch in diameter and about

an inch distant from each other; in Spring and Summer, the Bees may be

seen coming in great numbers to drink, or rather to carry water into

their hives, to mix with the farina they collect so abundantly at this

season of the year for food for their young. In my opinion, Dr. Bevan

says very justly, that "the Apiary should be near the residence of the

proprietor, as well for the purpose of rendering the Bees tractable,

and well acquainted with the family, as for affording a good view of

their general proceedings."

I am a decided enemy to Bee houses of all kinds, for they are the

means of causing the ruin of a great number of hives, by affording a

home to their worst enemies, viz.: mice, moths, spiders, earwigs, and

various other insects, thousands die from imprisonment, and many hives

are destroyed by humidity. The method of placing several hives upon the

same bench is also very injurious, it very much facilitates pilfering,

and renders it impossible to operate upon one hive, without disturbing

the others.

The hives should be placed upon separate boards, supported by single

pedestals four or five inches in diameter, firmly placed in the ground,

and standing about fifteen inches from the surface, (see fig. 1. plate

1;) upon the top of this post should be nailed firmly a board nine

inches square, upon which should be placed the board the hive stands

upon, but not nailed, the double boards will be found very convenient

for weighing or removing the hives, without disturbing the Bees.

On no account use clay or mortar as is usually done to secure the hive

to the board, the Bees of themselves will do it more effectually;[1]

clay or mortar tends very much to decay the hives, and to harbour moths

and other insects; each hive should be covered with a large milk-pan,

and be well painted every year, for hives managed upon the Depriving

System, are expected to stand from fifteen to twenty years.

[Footnote 1: This fact, though it has been denied by those who profess

to have had much experience in the management of Bees, is known to

every novice in Apiarian science, for he does not suffer much time to

pass, after having purchased a swarm of Bees, without endeavouring to

ascertain how much honey they have collected, and finds the difficulty

of separating the hive from the board upon which it was placed.]

The hives should be placed about three feet apart from each other, and

in a right line; but should the number be too great to allow of this

arrangement, and render two rows necessary, they must not be less than

fifteen feet asunder, and those in the front row intersecting the line

formed by the hinder one.

The boards on which the hives are placed, should be cleaned about four

times in the year--January, March, April and November, much time and

trouble will be saved the Bees thereby.

Plants which rise in height equal to or exceeding the entrance of the

hives, should not be suffered to grow in their immediate vicinity, and

every facility should be removed by which the enemies of the Bees can

ascend into the hives.

Still, however, a few shrubs or standard roses of four or five feet may

with advantage be placed eight or ten paces in front of the hives, for

the Bees to alight upon in their return home, when heavily laden with

honey and pollen--it saves their falling to the ground from the weight

of their load, which they frequently do, and in unfavourable weather to

rise no more. It was seeing them rest in this manner that gave rise to

the following lines:--

Rest on that Rose's leaf awhile, thou little Busy Bee,

Thou hast winged thy way with thousands, the wand'ring, the free.

Unwearied with thy ceaseless toil in search for future store,

Thou'rt come back to unlade thy sweets, then sally forth for more.

Thou'st been among the flow'rs of gold, their kiss is on thee yet,

And o'er thy richly powdered wings how many hues are met.

That tell of revelling at the founts of nectar's luscious tide,

Of honey-dews that rest upon each petal's glossy side.

Where hast thou been since the bright morn first saw thee on thy way

'Mong scented brier and glittering heath that woo'd thy lingering stay?

Hast thou no voice to tell us of the far-off verdant scenes,

Of the rich limes thou lovs't so well, and of the fresh'ning streams.

Away! away! once more thou'rt up and e'er the leaf be still'd.

To its soft rest from the trembling that thy light form has thrill'd,

Thoul't be again among thy loves, the fragrant, the bright,

All jealous of their hidden sweets, in murmuring delight.

I have always found the advantage of planting, in the vicinity of my

hives, a large quantity of the common kinds of crocus, single blue

hipatica, heleborus niger, and tussilago petasites, all of which flower

very early and are rich in honey and farina: salvia nemorosa, (of Dr.

Smith) which flowers very early in June and lasts all the summer, is

in an extraordinary manner sought after by the Bees, and when room

is not an object, twenty or thirty square yards of it may be grown

with advantage; origanum humile, origanum rubescens, (of Haworth) and

mignonette may also be grown; cultivation beyond this, exclusively

for Bees, I believe answers very little purpose. Cúscuta sinensis is

a great favorite with them; and the pretty little plant anacampseros

populifolium, when in flower, is literally covered by them--honey

itself appears not to possess more attractions for them than this plant.

Doctor Bevan says: "To those who, residing in towns, may consider

it indispensable to the success of an Apiary, that it should be in

the immediate vicinity of good pasturage, and be thereby deterred

from benefiting and amusing themselves by keeping Bees; it may be

satisfactory to learn that the Apiary of the celebrated Bonner was

situated in a garret, in the centre of Glasgow, where it flourished

for several years, and furnished him with the means of making many

interesting and valuable observations which he gave to the world about

thirty years ago."

My own experience also proves the truth of the above statement,

residing myself for four years in the centre of a large town, in a

house without a garden, I kept two stocks of Bees in my study, in

glass, and four or five others in the improved cottage hive upon the

roof of my house, and I am not aware that they have ever done better,

or afforded me a larger quantity of honey, in any other situation.

CHAPTER II.

_Directions for purchasing Bees._

The best time to establish an Apiary is from the middle of February

to the middle of March, the stocks will have passed in safety through

the winter, the combs are then empty of brood, light of honey, and the

removal safe and easy. Stocks should be selected by a competent judge,

as the weight alone cannot be relied on, a swarm of the preceding year

should be selected, and one that contains not less than twelve pounds

of honey; there are few commodities in which a person can be so easily

deceived as in a hive of Bees. I would therefore recommend the young

Apiarian to take the opinion of some experienced person before he makes

his purchase, a hive of the preceding year can only be known by a close

inspection of the combs, which but few persons have courage enough

to engage in; if the hive is not of the preceding year its weight is

no criterion of its value, for an old hive always contains a large

quantity of the pollen or dust of flowers which the Bees carry home on

their legs, especially in the Spring and Autumn, it is an essential

ingredient in the food with which they nourish their young, but good

for nothing else, indeed the Bees will die of hunger upon the combs

that are filled with it;--"Yet," says Gelieu, "they lay up useless

hoards of it, which they go on augmenting every year, and this is the

only point on which they can be accused of a want of that prudence and

foresight so admirable in every other respect."

The Bees appear to be aware of the perishable nature of this

substance, for they never fill a cell entirely with it, but leave room

for a small quantity of honey in each cell containing pollen, before it

is sealed up, by this means the air is most effectually excluded, and

the pollen preserved for a considerable time; should, however, the Bees

be compelled to consume the honey, from those cells containing pollen,

before they can make use of it for their young, it moulds and become

of no value, and causes them great labour to remove it. For, when in

this state, they have no means of displacing it but by eating away the

cells in which it is contained, and conveying it out of their hives in

small pieces, about the size of peas, hard and mouldy. I have seen the

entrance of old hives in the month of April almost filled up with these

pellets of mouldy farina. The process is tedious, takes up much time,

and the ravages made by it upon the combs appear irreparable; still

in a short space of time, if the weather is favourable, the combs are

repaired, as if no injury had befallen them, and filled with honey

or brood. It is a very heavy substance, so that if weight be the only

criterion, farina will be purchased instead of honey, therefore in the

purchase of old stocks it will be necessary they should weigh eight

pounds more than swarms of the preceding year; in the purchase of

swarms less experience is necessary, and by attending to the following

rules, the young Apiarian will not be imposed upon:--

1st. That the swarm be purchased before the 14th of June, the longer

before that time the better.

2ndly. That it does not weigh less than three pound and a half. I have

known some swarms to weigh six pounds, but this is of rare occurrence.

It is very important to observe, that when a swarm of Bees is purchased

it must be removed to the place in which it is to remain, upon the

evening of the day it swarmed, for should the removal be delayed even

till the next day, the combs will in all probability be broken and the

stock destroyed.

I should recommend the purchaser to send his own hive to the person

of whom he intends to buy a swarm, and to desire him not to put any

sticks across the interior of the hive, as is the usual custom, for

they cause much trouble to the Bees in forming their combs, and render

their extraction almost impossible. The prosperity of the hive will

much (perhaps entirely) depend upon its being finally placed upon the

evening of the day it swarmed.

CHAPTER III.

_Materials of which Hives should be made, and the

Improved Cottage Hive described._

Much has been said with respect to the materials of which Hives should

be made, and experience has long determined, that straw and wood are

the best. Mr. Huish, to whom I am indebted for some useful information

in Apiarian science, says, "Of all the materials which have been

selected for the formation of a Hive, I conceive no one to be more

eligible than straw." Gelieu, to whose experience as an Apiarian I

am disposed to pay the greatest respect, and whose work containing

Practical Directions for the Management and Preservation of Hives,[2]

I would recommend to every keeper of Bees, says, (when speaking of wood

and straw as materials proper for Hives) "experience has shown me, that

it is a matter of indifference which are employed; except as to price,

according as either material may be more or less abundant in different

parts of the country." I have for seventeen years possessed a Nutt's

hive, which is made of wood, (and which I shall have occasion hereafter

to mention,) without being able to discover any difference in the

health and activity of the Bees; but the facility and economy in the

construction of straw hives, must always be a recommendation, as it is

in every article connected with rural economy.

[Footnote 2: The 'Bee Preserver,' by Jonas De Gelieu, recently

translated from the French.]

It has been always my practice to paint my Hives, both wood and straw,

at least once in the year, and I would strongly recommend all persons

to do the same. April I think is the best time, and if done after six

o'clock in the evening, not the least inconvenience will arise either

to the painter or to the Bees.

Having decided upon the materials of which Hives should be made, their

form is next to be considered; for a straw hive, I would recommend the

following size, nine inches deep and twelve in diameter, straight at

the sides and flat at the top,[3] in shape like a half bushel measure,

a hole should be made in the top of four inches, and a piece of straw

large enough to cover it must be fastened on with skewers, (see fig.

3, plate 1,) not to fit in but to cover _over_, the diameter of the

piece of straw being at least two inches more than that of the opening

at the top of the hive, it will be much easier taken off, and the combs

of swarms of a few weeks standing will not be injured by its removal,

which in favourable seasons should always have a glass, or small hive

put upon them, the early ones especially; an entrance of two inches by

one, must be cut in the bottom of the hive, to which I affix a piece

of copper of about six inches by three, having a grove, to admit two

sliding copper plates, one perforated, and the other having a hole

large enough to allow but one Bee to come out at a time, (see fig. 10,

plate 2.)[4] I have found great advantage arising from this little

apparatus.

[Illustration]

[Footnote 3: The Quarterly Review, of December, 1842, page 25, when

speaking of my hive, says, "the only fault, seems to be its flat

top." Now the advantages of a flat top are in my opinion very great;

first, the ease with which the Bees attach their combs to it, when

compared to a dome top; secondly, the facility given to, cutting out

the combs, whenever that operation becomes necessary, and, thirdly,

the convenience which it offers for placing glasses or boxes upon it.

And I am not aware of but one inconvenience, which can possibly arise

from it, which is the sinking of the top, from the heavy weight of the

glasses, or boxes of honey, which year by year it affords, but this,

however, is entirely obviated by the use of the adapter, (fig. 7.) as

recommended, chap. iv., page 21.]

[Footnote 4: Instead of two sliding plates, I would recommend one only

as given by Mr. Taylor, in his "Bee-Keeper's Manual," lately published,

for as they cannot both be used at the same time, the one out of use is

frequently misplaced. Zinc answers the purpose equally with copper, and

is but half its price.]

The finely perforated slider is used to confine the Bees to their hive

when snow lies upon the ground, the reflection of which, when the sun

shines upon it, never fails to induce them to leave their hives, and

falling upon it they perish, for a Bee becomes torpid at a temperature

of 32°. The slider with one hole only, is useful both in Spring and

Autumn, preventing either robbers or wasps from entering the hives,

for three or four Bees will, with the help of this slider, guard the

entrance more effectually than ten times the number without it.

Although I have recommended Bees to be confined in their hives so long

as snow remains upon the ground, it would, however, be very prejudicial

to them if carried on beyond that time, for I never saw Bees healthy

and strong after being shut up through the winter.

Gelieu, says, "Bees have no real disease, dysentery, about which so

much noise has been made, and for which so many remedies have been

prescribed, never attacks the Bees of a well-stocked hive, that is

left open at all seasons, but those only that are too long and too

closely confined. They are always in good health as long as they are at

liberty, when they are warm enough and have plenty of food. All their

pretended diseases are the result of cold, hunger, or the infection

produced by a too close and long confinement during winter."

CHAPTER IV.

_Method of placing the small Hive,[5] Box, or Glass, upon the Improved

Cottage Hive, by which means fine Honey may be obtained, without

destroying the Bees._

[Footnote 5: To avoid repetition, we shall in future use the term,

"Box," to express any receptacle employed to obtain Honey on the

Improved System, whether it be in wood, glass, straw, or any other

material.]

At the end of April, or very early in the month of May, take the

moveable piece of straw, from the top of the Improved Cottage Hive,

(fig. 3,) and place upon it the adapter, (fig. 5,) then put the Box or

small Hive (fig. 7, and 4,) upon this adapter, and cover the whole

with a milk-pan, to defend them from wet. A glass may be used instead

of the small Hive or Box, with equal success, providing it be covered

with something that will effectually exclude light; a cover of straw,

is perhaps preferable to any other.

The boxes which I use, and that I would recommend, are made of inch

deal: nine inches square, and eight inches deep, inside measure: with

a piece of glass six inches by seven and a half, let in on one side

and covered by a shutter to exclude the light. The small hives are in

diameter eight inches, and seven inches deep, with a bit of glass on

one side, some are made with a hole in the top, that they may, when

required be placed between a glass partially filled, and the stock hive.

When the Bees are beginning to work in a glass, a cold night generally

obliges them to forsake their newly made combs, sends them down into

the hive, and compels them to discontinue their labours which are

seldom resumed till the middle of the next day; to prevent this

delay, I would recommend the space between the glass and its cover to

be filled with fine tow or wool, the temperature of the glass being

thereby kept up, and the Bees enabled to carry on their labours without

interruption. The latter is to be preferred, it being not so good a

conductor of heat as the former.

Experience has proved that the milk-pan is the best of all protections

for a hive, provided it be six inches in diameter larger than the hive

itself.

When the Box is filled with honey, and the combs partially sealed, or

when the Bees are seen to cluster at the mouth of the Hive, at nine

or ten o'clock in the morning, let no time be lost in lifting up the

Box, and placing between it and the Stock-hive, another Box with a hole

in the top; the adapter (fig. 5.) will be found very useful in this

operation. It is necessary to use this precaution at all times, but

more especially in a rainy season, as a greater disposition amongst

the Bees to swarm then prevails. "Dry weather makes plenty of honey,

and moist, of swarms."[6] However incorrect this position may at first

sight appear, the attentive observer will quickly become convinced of

its truth.

[Footnote 6: Purchas, on Swarms.]

Since the publication of the First Edition of this little Treatise,

many persons have said to me, "their Bees would swarm, although the

small hive had been placed on as directed above, and sometimes after

they had commenced working in it," the reason for which, in my opinion

is, that the second small hive was not supplied soon enough, for the

like has never in a single instance occurred with my own Bees. I have

not had a swarm these twenty years, from any of the hives worked upon

the Depriving System, occasionally I have compelled a hive to swarm,

to fill up a vacancy in my number, where the Queen has died, or some

other accident destroyed the stock.

The population of a hive increases rapidly in April and May, and

consequently the internal temperature rises in proportion, a very high

temperature causes swarming, (Mr. Nutt says 130°) although the Bees

may have abundance of room--I have frequently seen a glass lamp that

has no opening at the top, placed upon a hive, and the result has been

that the Bees swarmed before they had filled it. If both _room and

ventilation_ are carefully attended to, _swarming may be prevented

altogether_, and that the one may be as completely under the control of

the proprietor as the other, I would recommend Mr. Taylor's Ventilator,

which I believe to be a perfect one, for when properly arranged, it

will reduce the temperature of a hive at the swarming season, from ten

to twenty degrees in a few minutes--I would recommend its insertion in

the top of the small hive, box, or glass, before it is placed upon the

larger one.

"The Ventilator I use," says Mr. Taylor, "(and I have made them of

various forms) consists of double tubes, both resting on a flauch in

the holes prepared for them, the outer tube is of one inch diameter and

six inches long, with six half-inch holes dispersed over it.

[Illustration]

"It is soon fixed down in its place by the Bees, and so must remain,

the inner tube is of perforated zinc, with a[7] tin projecting top

as a handle, and a cap to put on or off this as required. The Bees

will stop up the inner tube where they can get at it, when it may be

turned round a little to present a new surface. When wholly stopped,

it may be withdrawn from its place, and a clean tube substituted. This

may be done without the least danger to the operator, but it should

be inserted carefully, to avoid crushing any Bees that may have crept

within the outer tube, an exit to these is afforded by the hole at the

bottom. The substance with which Bees glue up all crevices and attach

their combs is called Propolis--a resinous exudation from certain

trees, of a fragrant smell, and removable by the aid of hot water.

[Footnote 7: In adopting Mr. Taylor's Ventilator to the small hive, the

inner tube must be made without "the projecting top as a handle," and

the cap made even with the flauch.]

"In order occasionally to know the temperature of any of the boxes, a

thermometer made to fit the ventilator may be inserted in it. This is

chiefly useful as a matter of precaution towards the swarming season.

"Some have thought it necessary to cut holes in the floor-board, or

have placed drawers underneath, to aid the ventilation, but I have

always found the mouth of the hive sufficient for all purposes."

All operations except joining swarms or stocks, should be performed on

a fine day, about noon, they may then be done with much less annoyance

to the Bees, as well as with less chance of danger to the operator.

I have for some years past performed almost all the operations required

in this system without the defence, even of gloves, but I would not

recommend any person to attempt it, until he has had several years'

experience in the management of Bees.

The being perfectly defended in every part against their stings, gives

that coolness and confidence to the operator, upon which the happy

accomplishment of his intentions so much depends. I cannot too strongly

urge, that coolness and confidence on the part of the operator are

essential qualification, for any thing approaching to hurry irritates

them beyond measure; indeed whilst engaged with them the hand ought

never to be hastily removed from one position to another. Dr. Bevan

says, "quietness is the surest protection against being stung."

The best defence is a mask of wire, very similar to, but much finer

than a fencing mask, with a rim of tin made to fit the head, to which

a silk handkerchief is attached, a pair of thick worsted gloves, and

stockings or gaiters of the same material; stout leather gloves are as

good protection as those of worsted, but leather, from the closeness of

its texture, will not allow the Bees to withdraw their stings from it

and the consequence is, that many perish.

It is recommended to persons during their operations on Bees, to

carefully avoid breathing upon them, as nothing is more offensive,

or more irritating to them than the human breath; this however, is

partially obviated by closing the mouth, and suffering the breath to

pass gently through the noise, by which a full current is not allowed

to fall upon them.

CHAPTER V.

_Proper time for taking away the Box and how to

expel the Bees from it._

When the Box is filled with honey and the combs all sealed up, (which

will generally be done about the middle of June) it may be taken off,

or it may remain till the one placed beneath it is also sealed up,

which in all probability will be completed by the first week in August.

Upon the very strong and populous hives, it is necessary in some

seasons to place even a third, which must be removed with great

caution, for at this time of the year every stock should contain at

least twenty pounds of honey; should, however, the stock have that

quantity, it may be safely removed and placed upon a weaker one, for

the combs not being all sealed, the honey therefore is not saleable.

The Box taken off, must be lifted very gently at noon, upon a fine day,

and carried forty or fifty yards from the hive; place it upon a board

or table, raising it a little that room may be given to the Bees to

make their escape, which they will do in a very short time.

Much difficulty appears to have arisen with some persons in getting

the Bees to leave the Box when taken off, but in this as in all other

operations with Bees, gentleness is very important, indeed it is the

only means of accomplishing the end desired, and as I have before said,

"the Box must be lifted _very gently_," and placed about six inches

from the ground, or table, upon bricks, flower pots, or something of

the kind. Shaking, beating, or burning paper under it, as is sometimes

done, have all a contrary effect upon the Bees, they are alarmed by it,

and will not leave the box perhaps for days, when these means have been

resorted to.

The box being thus placed, a loud humming noise is first heard, and

the Bees are then seen to leave it within five or six minutes, (all

except a few stragglers) but should the Queen be in the Box, (which

very rarely happens) quite a different appearance presents itself, no

noise will be heard, or a Bee scarcely seen to leave it, but the hive

from which it has been taken will in a very short time appear in great

confusion. Whenever this occurs, the Box must be returned immediately,

and taken off again the next day.

When a hive or glass of honey is taken, it ought not to be left till

the Bees are all out of it, for it is very likely to be attacked by

robbers, thus a great part of it will be carried away in a short time,

and what is left rendered unfit for sale, on account of the cells

being opened, from which the honey will drain out, upon the position of

the hive being changed.

Robbers may be known by their desire to enter the hive or glass, the

Bees belonging to it, being separated from their Queen, fly home

immediately upon leaving it.

In taking off a box of honey it will be found convenient to pass a very

thin knife, or fine wire between the hives or boxes intended to be

separated; if that precaution be not taken, a piece of comb frequently

projects from the top of the one left, or the bottom of that taken,

which causes much trouble to the operator: two adapters (fig. 5.)

placed between the boxes will be found very convenient, for the knife

or wire will only have to be passed between them, and the danger of

breaking the combs will be obviated--they should be made of mahogany,

for it will allow of being worked very thin, without the risk of

warping; they are three eights of an inch thick, twelve inches square,

with a circular hole in the middle four inches in diameter.

To expel the bees from the box or hive when taken off, Gelieu says,

"Take a hive or box of the same size, place it over the full one that

is turned upside down, bind them round with a napkin, to intercept all

passage to the bees, and force them to ascend into the empty box, by

tapping gently on the full one. They soon go up into the empty box, and

when they are all housed, replace them on the parent hive, whence they

were withdrawn; and if the season is favourable and the honey abundant,

they soon set to work again."

Honey taken by this method is acknowledged to be very superior in

quality to that obtained by the usual barbarous and unprofitable

manner of burning the Bees, which arises from the combs in which it is

deposited being new and perfectly white, the early period at which it

is collected, and from its being unmixed with honey gathered later in

the season as well as from the Queen very rarely ascending through the

opening at the top of the improved cottage hive, that neither brood nor

farina are found amongst it.

This honey sells readily at two shillings a pound, whilst that obtained

by burning the Bees, is scarcely saleable at eightpence.

It is usual to obtain from every good stock twenty or perhaps thirty

pounds of honey annually. I once obtained forty-five pounds, leaving

the stock rich in honey.

It is frequently asked what becomes of the Bees managed on this system,

if they are never suffered to swarm nor are destroyed;--the hives will

never contain them? To which I would reply, that it is well known

to those who are conversant in the care of Bees, that their numbers

decrease greatly in Autumn, not only by the destruction of the drones,

but also by the unavoidable deaths of many of the working Bees, owing

to the thousand accidents they meet with in the fields, and to age;[8]

a much less space therefore is wanted for them in the winter than was

necessary in the summer.

[Footnote 8: Mr. Purchas, in his "Theatre of Political Flying Insects,"

published in 1657--says, "it is manifest that the Honey Bees are

but yearly creatures," and when giving the sentiments of Aristotle,

Pliny, Columella, Cardanus, and others, he says, "the truth is,

notwithstanding these men's opinion, that Bees live but a year and a

quarter at most, for those Bees that are seen in May, lusty, full,

brown, smooth, well winged, will, by the end of July following,

begin to wither, become less_e_, look gr_a_y, and have their wings

t_o_ttered, and tom, and be_e_ all dead before the end of August."]

CHAPTER VI.

_Method to be pursued in case a Swarm should leave the

Hive, after having commenced working in the Box._

This is a circumstance of very rare occurrence, and more especially

when the directions given in the former chapter are strictly complied

with; however, should it happen, let the swarm be hived in the usual

manner into the improved Cottage Hive, (see fig. 3.) as directed in

Chapter XII, when the Bees are settled, take off the moveable piece of

straw from the top of the hive, and place upon it the box partially

filled with honey and Bees; cover the old hive with the piece of straw

belonging to it, and the milk-pan, as no further profit (except the

cast or second swarm) will be obtained till the next season; should the

proprietor be unwilling to increase his number of stocks, the swarm may

be returned immediately to its parent hive; the process is very simple,

and I have always found it succeed--as soon as the swarm is settled,

turn the hive bottom upwards, and if the Queen Bee does not make her

appearance in a few seconds, dash the Bees out upon a cloth, or upon

a gravel walk,[9] and with a wine glass she may be easily captured,

upon this being accomplished, the Bees will immediately return to their

parent hive, and resume their labours; she may also very easily be

taking during the departure of a swarm, for she appears to leave the

hive reluctantly and may be seen running backwards and forwards upon

the alighting-board before she takes wing.

[Footnote 9: The method of performing this operation, consists in

lifting the hive gently about a foot, and with a smart and sudden jar

returning it to the ground, so that the Bees be completely dislodged

from the hive, and left upon the cloth, the hive may now be removed to

a short distance, and as the Bees are attempting to return to their

former habitation, the Queen may be easily captured.]

A second swarm generally leaves the hive about nine days after the

first, but the time may be exactly ascertained by standing quietly

beside the hive after sunset, when the Queen may be distinctly heard

"to tun' in hir treble voic',"[10] which is a certain indication that a

second swarm will leave the hive. Should two or three Queens be heard

one after the other, it will be on the following day, if the weather

be not _very_ unfavourable, (for the second and third swarms appear to

have less regard as to the weather than the first.) Should the Queens

continue to pipe after the departure of the second swarm, a third will

certainly follow in a few days, but if one or two Queens be found dead

beneath the hive on the next morning, no more swarms can be expected.

[Footnote 10: Butler's Feminin Monarchi, Edit. 1634.]

That the old Queen accompanies the first swarm is established beyond

a doubt; that many Queens are bred in a hive, a number sometimes

exceeding thirty in one year, is also ascertained; and that the Bees

have the power of producing a Queen from an egg deposited in the combs

of the working Bees, by treating it in a different manner to those that

are to become workers, has also been satisfactorily proved, all that

has been said beyond this, regarding their natural history, must, I

believe be considered principally conjecture.

"It is, however," says a modern Author, "not the least interesting part

of the study of the Bee, that this apparently insignificant insect, has

hitherto baffled all the research and ingenuity of man, to discover the

manner of its propagation; analogy presents no guide to the solution

of this secret, and the result of every anatomical experiment has

tended rather to mystify the subject, than to conduct us to the road

to truth," and Purchas, who I have before quoted, says, "God humbles

us with ignorance in many things, not only divine but natural, and in

common use, in the nature of Bees how blind are we, notwithstanding all

our observations and labour, in the production and continuance of the

Queen Bee, in the generation of other Bees, and generally in the forms

of all things."

CHAPTER VII.

_Method of uniting second and third Swarms._

Second and third Swarms, or Casts and Colts, are seldom or ever able to

collect a sufficient quantity of honey, to support themselves through

the winter, and can only be preserved by much care and expense, and

most of them die after all without bringing any profit. It is much

better therefore to unite them in the following manner:--when two

_Casts_ or _Colts_ come off upon the same day, hive them separately,

and leave them till an hour and half after sunset, then spread a cloth

upon the ground, upon which by a smart and sudden movement, shake

all the Bees out of one of the hives, and immediately take the other

and place it gently over the Bees that are heaped together upon the

cloth, and they will instantly ascend into it, and join those, which

not having been disturbed, are quiet in their new abode; next morning

before sunrise, remove this newly united hive to the place in which it

is to remain; this doubled population will work with double success,

and in the most perfect harmony, and generally become a strong stock,

from which much profit may be derived.

Two Casts or weak Swarms may be joined in the same manner, although

one of them may have swarmed some days or even weeks later than the

other, taking care however, not to make the first one enter the second,

but the second the first, a third, and a fourth parcel of Bees may be

joined to them at different times, till the stock becomes strong.

It is almost impossible sufficiently to impress upon the mind of every

person who keeps Bees, the necessity of having his stocks all strong,

for weak stocks are very troublesome, very expensive, and seldom, if

ever, afford any profit.

Mr. Taylor say, "the stronger the colony at the outset the better

the Bees will work, and the more prosperous it will become. I never

knew a weak one do well long, and a little extra expense, and trouble

at first, are amply rewarded by succeeding years of prosperity and

ultimate profit;" and again, "thus strength in one year begets it in

succeeding ones, and this principle ought to be borne in mind by those

who imagine that the deficient population of one season will be made up

in the next, and that the loss of Bees in the winter is of secondary

consequence, forgetting how influential is their warmth to the earlier

and increased productive powers of the Queen, and how important it

is in the opening spring to be able to spare from the home duties of

the hive a number of collectors, to add to the stores, which would

otherwise not keep pace with the cravings of the rising generation."

It is a remarkable fact, that two weak stocks joined, will collect

double the quantity of honey, and consume much less than two of the

same age and strength, kept separately. Stocks must be joined after

sunset, upon the day that one of them has swarmed, or before sunrise

the next morning, and the doubled stock must be placed upon the stand

it previously occupied. Great care must be taken not to shake the hive,

nor must it be turned up, the combs being new, and tender, will easily

break, and the stock by that means be destroyed.

CHAPTER VIII.

_Manner of uniting Swarms and old stocks in Autumn._

For this very useful information, I am indebted to that excellent

Apiarian, Gelieu; I have tried it upon some of my own stocks, as well

as upon those of my friends, and have found it in every instance fully

to answer my expectations. Persons possessing these instructions should

not allow a weak stock to remain through the winter.

The operation is performed very easily and without danger: I have

frequently accomplished it without any protection whatever, and I will

give the method in the words of Gelieu--"When the swarms have not been

able to lay up a sufficient provision during the fine weather, I weigh

them at the end of the season, and knowing the weight of each empty

hive, I can tell exactly the quantity of honey they have in store. If

they are three, four, five or six pounds too light, I preserve them

and feed them in the manner I am about to detail. When the swarms

have only about one-third or one half of the quantity of honey which

would suffice to feed them, I might keep them alive by giving them

as much more as they require. I have frequently done so, but I have

already remarked that this plan costs too much honey, and gives too

much trouble: and, therefore, I generally join them into one. For this

purpose, I leave the heaviest swarm untouched, and, in the morning of

a fine day in September, or the beginning of October, I commence by

blowing a few whiffs of tobacco-smoke with my pipe in at the door of

the hive of the lightest swarm, to disperse the sentinels; then turning

up the hive, and placing it on its top on the ground, I give it a

little more smoke, to prevent the Bees from becoming irritated, and to

force them to retire within the combs--I proceed to cut out all the

combs in succession, beginning with the smallest, sweeping the Bees

with a feather off each piece back into the hive; and then I place the

combs, one after another, into a large dish beside me, keeping it, at

the same time, carefully covered over with a napkin, or small table

cloth, to prevent the Bees returning to their combs, or the smell of

the honey attracting others that may be flying about. The last comb is

the most difficult to come at, being completely covered over with Bees.

I detach it, however, in the same way as the others, but with greater

precaution, sweeping the Bees off very gently with the feather, until

there is not one left on it. This operation, I perform without gloves,

or any other protection, armed only with my pipe; and for ten times

that I treat them after this fashion, I seldom receive one sting, even

when I act unassisted.

"The combs being all removed, the swarm remains as completely destitute

of food as it was on the day of its emigration, and I replace it on

its board in the same spot it occupied when full, and leave it till

the evening, by which time the Bees will be clustered together like a

new swarm. During the whole of the day, which I shall suppose to be

fine, they occupy themselves with great earnestness cleansing their

house, and making such a noise in removing the little fragments of wax

that have fallen on the board, that any one who did not know it had

been emptied, would take it for the best and strongest of the hives.

Before night, when they are all quiet, I throw a few whiffs of smoke

in at the door of the hive which I mean my deprived swarm to enter,

and which should be its next neighbour on the right hand or the left;

then, turning it up, and resting it on the ground, I sprinkle it all

over with honey, especially between the combs where I perceive the

greatest number of Bees: five or six table spoonfuls generally suffice;

at other times three or four times as many are required. If too little

were given, the new comers might not be well received; there might be

some fighting; and by giving too much, we run the risk of drowning

them.--One should cease the sprinkling when the Bees begin to climb

up above the combs, and shelter themselves on the sides of the hive,

this done, I replace the hive on its board, which should jut out about

seven or eight inches, raising the hive up in the front with two little

bits of stick, so as to leave a division of an inch between it and the

board, to give free access to the Bees. I also spread a table cloth

upon the ground before it, raising and fixing one end of it on the

board, by means of two bits of stick, that are placed as a temporary

support to the hive. I then take the hive that was deprived of its

combs in the morning, and with one shake, throw the Bees out of it upon

the table-cloth, which they instantly begin to ascend; while, by the

help of a long wooden spoon, I guide them to the door of the one that

is placed for their reception. A few spoonfuls of the Bees raised and

laid down at the door of the hive will set the example, they enter at

once, and the others follow quickly, flapping their wings, and sipping

with delight the drops of honey that come in their way, or officiously

licking and cleaning those first inhabitants that have received the

sprinkling, and with whom they mingle and live henceforth on good

terms; one division of the new comers always cluster on the front of

the hive, which they enter during the night without disturbance, much

pleased to join their companions.

"Next morning, early, it is necessary to take away the table-cloth,

and the bits of stick, that were placed to raise up the hive, and

facilitate the entrance of the Bees, and for some days the door should

be left open as wide as possible. The hive should also be moved a

little to the right or left, that it may stand precisely in the centre

of the place they both occupied before the union.

"I have frequently united three swarms in the same manner, and with

the same success, taking care only to empty in the morning those on

each side, and to make the Bees enter the middle one in the evening,

after it has been sprinkled with honey. In this case I do not remove

the one that unites the three swarms."

I have adhered strictly to these directions except in "raising and

fixing the table-cloth to the board,"--making the Bees ascend, I have

always found to be a slow process, but placing the hive they are to

join over them when heaped upon the cloth, is much quicker and equally

successful.

Old stocks that are rendered weak by swarming, or by having too much

honey taken from them, may be united in the same manner, with this

difference only, that double the quantity of honey should be used in

sprinkling.

If a stock of Bees, containing fifteen or twenty pounds of honey in

September, be carefully managed during the winter, which consists in

narrowing the entrance to exclude robbers, carefully covering the hive

with a milk-pan, and raising it from the board every month or six weeks

to clean it, no doubt can be entertained to its affording a good box of

honey.

CHAPTER IX.

_Manner of feeding weak Stocks, and the time

most appropriate for this operation._

Autumn and Spring are the most proper seasons for supplying weak stocks

with food. Bees ought never to be fed during the winter, as food given

at that time, not only causes disease, but induces them to go out of

their hives, when many of them perish from cold.

Food should be administered only at night, and the sooner after sunset

the better; the vessel in which it is given ought to be carefully

removed by sunrise the next morning, or robbers will be attracted to

the hive by the smell of the honey and far more injury be sustained

from them, than the benefit arising to the Bees, from the food given.

In feeding, therefore, it will be necessary to observe the greatest

neatness. In Autumn, Bees should be fed copiously, those hives

containing less than fifteen pounds of honey must be made up to that

weight by feeding; the most effectual method I have been able to devise

is to excavate a board of four or five inches in thickness, so as to

allow a soup plate, or pewter dish to fit into it without rising above

its level; this dish may be filled with honey, and covered with pieces

of paper to prevent the Bees from being drowned, it may then be placed

under the hive at sunset, and a napkin tied round the bottom of it,

to prevent any of the Bees from making their escape; in this manner

three or four pounds of honey may be given at one time, so that twice

feeding, it is supposed will be sufficient for any hive, for if more

than this quantity is wanted, the stock must be joined to another as

directed in Chapter VIII. Should the honey be very thick, a small

quantity of warm water may be added to it, in the proportion of half a

pint to three pounds of honey, observing to mix them well together.

If the honey be much candied it may be placed over a fire for a few

minutes till it becomes liquid--another plan of feeding is to prepare

a rim of straw, or a wooden hoop, the exact size of the hive, and four

inches deep, within which place the dish of honey, and put the hive

over it, making the union secure with a napkin.

In the Spring, Bees should be fed sparingly, three or four ounces of

honey twice in the week, will be found amply sufficient; the easiest

method of giving these small quantities is by a vessel of tin, upon

the same principle as a bird's fountain, holding about a pound or a

pound and half; (see fig. 9.) the projecting trough or mouth, must be

put in at the entrance of the hive, it is one inch and three quarters

wide, and three inches and a half long, covered with a perforated tin:

this vessel being filled with honey, has only to be placed in the hive

at night, and removed in the morning, the feeder itself effectually

stopping up the entrance of the hive.

Some persons feed their Bees at the top of the hive, but it is much too

tedious and sparing a way, in my opinion for Autumn feeding, in the

Spring it does very well. This feeder is of wood with a cover of glass,

it has a hole through its centre, corresponding with one at the top of

the hive, which enables the Bees to pass into it, and take the honey--I

believe it was invented by Wildman.

CHAPTER X.

_Food proper for weak Hives._

I am decidedly of opinion that Bees fed in the Autumn should have

honey, in preference to any other kind of food. Mr. Huish recommends

"eight pounds of honey, six pounds of water, a bottle of white wine,

and a pound of sugar, boiled and skimmed, to be bottled for use,"

he adds, "the most advisable method is not to make more than is

immediately wanted, because there is some danger of its fermenting."

Now if the Bees are allowed to store a quantity of this, or any other

similar kind of food in their hives, will it not in all probability

ferment _there_ also? this is my reason for recommending honey

only--indeed I have never seen Bees so healthy as those fed on the

simple mixture of honey and water. In Spring, other kinds of food may

answer very well, as a small portion only is given at a time, and

very little of it deposited in the combs. A very good Spring food may

be made with honey and sweet wort, or with raw sugar and sweet wort,

boiled and skimmed.

The proportions would be, one pound of sugar, or half a pound of honey,

to two pints of strong wort.

For feeding weak stocks many things have been prescribed, but nothing

is so proper and natural as honey, I dislike feeding altogether, except

a little in the beginning of the year, through the lateness of the

Spring some hives (otherwise sufficiently supplied) may require it.

Early swarms may also require a little honey when the weather proves

unfavourable for their collecting it the four or five first days

succeeding their being hived, but in both these cases a very small

quantity will be found sufficient. Autumn feeding very rarely answers

the purpose of the proprietor. Uniting the weak stocks at that season,

as directed in Chapter VIII. will be found much more advantageous.

CHAPTER XI.

_Enemies of Bees, and means of overcoming them._

Gelieu says--"that nothing is more prejudicial to Bees than ignorant

attention; their most formidable enemies are, perhaps, their

possessors, who busy themselves to torment them, and weaken and kill

them by too much care. In Winter, they hurt them by shutting them up,

and in Spring, the giving them a little honey is not always attended

to, neither is the guarding them from moths, which, at that time, make

the greatest havoc, nor is the narrowing of the entrances to prevent

them being robbed. Some people suffocate them in Autumn, that they may

possess themselves of their provisions; and others take out the best

of the honey, and often too much of it, and so expose them to die of

hunger.

"I therefore place, in the foremost rank of their enemies, those of

their possessors, who, by their own ignorance and inexperience, hinder

them from prospering and multiplying." To all this I am sorry to say

that I can bear testimony.

Amongst the enemies of Bees are enumerated, ants, moths, birds,

poultry, mice, wasps, and spiders. Ants, perhaps, are their least

dangerous enemies, for though they cannot sting them, they carry them

to a distance.

Ants may be destroyed by pouring boiling water into their nests, and

the operation will be greatly assisted by making holes into them with a

sharp stick, so as to allow the water to flow readily to the bottom of

them. Mr. Huish says, "to preserve my Bees from these vermin, I always

fasten a piece of sheep's skin, with its wool on round the bottom

of the pedestal;" it has been said, that these insects dislike both

garlick and shalots, and they will not harbour in the ground in which

these vegetables are grown.

Moths[11] are by far their most formidable and dangerous enemies,

great numbers of hives are destroyed by them every year, it therefore

requires the utmost vigilance on the part of the Bee-keeper to defend

his favourites from these most powerful assailants. It is in the

caterpillar state that they commit their ravages, and it is truly

astonishing to observe the rapidity with which they destroy a hive,

when they get established in it. It must be observed that hives managed

upon the Depriving System, that are expected to stand for ten, fifteen

or even _twenty years_ are much more subject to the incursions of

moths, than those which are destroyed every year.

[Footnote 11: Entomology designates two species of wax moths: the

greater is the most common _gallerea cerreana_, and the smaller

_gallerea alvearia_.]

The best method of preventing their increase is the frequent cleansing

of the hive floors, for the female generally deposits her eggs between

the hive and the board on which it stands, or in the dust that

accumulates at the bottom. Upon removing the hive the moths may be seen

in the _larva_ state upon the floor, and are easily destroyed. "Moths

and spiders," says Dr. Bevan, "should be watched and destroyed, in an

evening, as at that time the former are hovering about, and the latter

laying their snares." He also recommends a frequent cleaning of the

hive floors.--Huish says, "the butterfly of the moth that redoubtable

enemy of the Bee, appears in April, and continues until October.

Destroy them as much as possible; frighten not away the bats which fly

about the hives, as they devour a great number of them." He says also,

"I would alway advise an Apiarian to fix his attention particularly on

a hive, the Bees of which appear to be in inaction, whilst the Bees of

other hives are in activity. If this inaction continue for ten days,

or a fortnight, not a moment then should be lost in examining the hive,

and the ravages of the moth will soon present themselves."

Amongst birds, that little marauder the blue titmouse (_parus major

of Linneus_) stands the foremost as their enemy, for, says Purchas,

"she will eat ten or twelve Bees at a time, and by and by be ready for

more; she feeds her young ones also with them. She eats not the whole

Bee, but divides it in the middle, pulls out the bag_g_e of honey,

l_i_tting drop the skinny outside; in the spring she watches for them

in the willow and sallow trees, and takes them when they are at their

work." Destroy their nests in breeding time, and shoot them in winter.

Lapoutre, a French Naturalist, assures us, "that he saw under a tree in

which there was a tom-tit's nest, a surprising quantity of the scaly

parts of Bees, which this bird had dropped from its nest." Sparrows and

swallows have both an ill name, but I could never observe any great

hurt done by either of them. Poultry will occasionally destroy Bees,

for I once recollect seeing a hen and her brood pay dearly for their

freedom with a hive, the chickens were all stung to death, and the hen

escaped only with her life.

From mice, the surest safeguard is the single pedestal (see fig. 1, 2

and 3.).

The destruction of Queen Wasps in the Spring, and wasps nests in the

Summer, will prove the best security against these formidable enemies:

Queen Wasps are seen in April and May, and are very easily captured,

every one which is then destroyed, would probably have been the founder

of a nest, which may be computed at 30,000, at least.

In Autumn, it is very common for Bees to rob and plunder each other's

hives; the best remedy for this evil, as well as to guard against

wasps, is to contract the entrances; to effect this object, I would

recommend a copper guard to be attached to each hive; (see fig. 10, and

page 18,) the wooden one of Espenasse, as well as Huish's tin guard, I

have found very inconvenient, which induced me to construct the one

referred to. It is made of thin copper, and stitched to the hive with

copper wire, it has two sliders, one pierced with a number of small

holes, and the other having one only, but large enough to allow the

passage of one Bee through it. The advantages of this, above all other

guards, arises from its not projecting beyond the hive, the alighting

board not being encumbered by it, and the angles formed by Huish's with

the hive, so annoying to the Bees, being avoided.

"In a word," says Purchas, "if you desire to have your Bees thrive, and

prosper, keep them well from winds and wet, heat and cold, _destroy

their enemies_, and let them enjoy a sufficiency of food gotten by

their own industry; and if there be a want in some, timely supply them,

and doubt not, if by God's blessing on your endeavours, the increase

and prosperity of your Bees."

CHAPTER XII.

_Directions for Hiving Swarms._

Bees managed upon the Depriving System, rarely swarm, and are seldom

found clustering at the mouth of the hive, for every bright hour during

the honey season they seem to turn to profit, when, however, Clustering

or Swarming takes place, it generally arises from the Box not having

been put on sufficiently early in the season, or for the want of a

second Box; if a swarm should from these causes be compelled to leave

the hive, let it be put into a new improved Cottage Hive, (see fig.

3.) in the usual manner.

I have always adopted the plan of placing my swarms where they are to

remain, within ten or fifteen minutes after the time of their being

hived, and in this practice Gelieu agrees with me, for he says, "most

people who have Bees allow their Swarms to remain till the evening in

the place where they have alighted, and do not move them to the Apiary

till after sunset, this method has many inconveniences.

"As soon as a swarm has congregated in the new hive, and seems to be

at ease in it, the most industrious amongst the Bees fly off to the

fields, but with a great many precautions. They descend the front of

the hive, and turn to every side to examine it thoroughly, then take

flight, and make some circles in the air in order to reconnoitre their

new abode, they do the same in returning. If the Swarm has taken flight

in the morning, the same Bees make several excursions during the day,

and each time with less precaution, as becoming familiarized with

their dwelling, they are less afraid of mistaking it, and thus, next

morning, supposing themselves in the same place, they take wing without

having observed where they have spent the night, and surprised at their

return not to find the hive in the same place, they fly about all day

in search of it, until they perish with fatigue and despair. Thus many

hundreds of the most industrious labourers are lost, and this may be

entirely avoided, if the Swarms be removed as soon as the Bees are

perceived coming out--this sign alone is sufficient.

"Sometimes I do not even wait till all the Bees clustered in front

or on the sides of the Hive, are reunited to their companions in the

interior, as they are never long in being so; and this plan has always

fully succeeded with me."

Experience has long since proved, that the custom of beating

warming-pans and the like, at the time a swarm leaves the hive is

perfectly useless, as well as the ridiculous practice of dressing the

Hive, as it is called, by drenching it with beer, honey, fennel, &c.;

the former is considered by persons of observation, actually to prevent

the Bees from alighting so soon as they would otherwise do; and the

latter frequently to compel them to leave the hive. The best method is

to watch the Swarm in silence, and after it has once collected, to lose

no time in hiving it into a _new_, _clean_, and _dry_ Hive. Much time

and trouble may be spared the Bees, if the loose straw be removed from

the interior of the hive, the best method of effecting which, is to

singe them with a wax taper, and afterwards to remove them with a hard

brush.

I have for many years past discontinued the use of sticks across the

interior of my hives, for they cause much unnecessary trouble to the

Bees in the construction of their combs; every facility should be given

to a fresh swarm in their labors, for they have much to do, as Dr.

Aikin has very beautifully said for them in the

SONG OF THE BEES.

We watch for the light of the morn to break,

And colour the grey eastern sky

With its blended hues of saffron and lake,

Then we say to each other, "Awake, Awake!

For our winter's honey is all to make,

And our bread for a long supply."

Then off we hie to the hill and the dell,

To the field, the wild wood and bower;

In the columbine's horn we love to dwell,

To dip in the lily with snow-white bell.

To search the balm in its odorous cell,

The thyme and the rosemary flower.

We seek for the bloom of the eglantine,

The lime, painted thistle, and brier.

And follow the course of the wandering vine,

Whether it trail on the earth supine,

Or round the aspiring tree-top twine,

And reach for a stage still higher.

As each for the good of the whole is bent,

And stores up its treasures for all,

We hope for an evening with heart's content.

For the winter of life without lament

That summer is gone, with its hours mis-spent,

And the harvest is past recall.

And not only do sticks across the hive cause much unnecessary trouble

to the Bees in the construction of their combs, but render their

extraction almost impossible; for in this System it becomes necessary,

after a Hive has stood seven or eight years, to cut out part of its

combs, which by that time will have become very black, very thick, and

the cells, from the number of Bees hatched in them, (every one leaving

a deposit) much contracted. The times best suited for this operation

will be March and September; if performed in March, two leaves of comb

may be taken, if in September, one only; it is a very simple process,

and easily accomplished with the aid of a little tobacco smoke, and a

knife (fig. 6.) which I will hereafter describe.

Gelieu says, in 1814, "I have several Stocks from twelve to twenty

years old that are as prosperous as the young ones, and one stock

_twenty-five years old_."

I cannot say so much as this, but I do not in the least doubt the

truth of it; fifteen years is the longest time that I have kept a

stock, and the reason of my losing it at the expiration of that period

was from the decay of the Hive, it being badly made and not painted;

its annual profit was never less than forty, and some years, fifty

shillings.

I would recommend every person who keeps Bees, to have a few

well-painted new hives always by him, that each hive be weighed, and

its weight upon a ticket of lead fastened to it, the board also upon

which the hive stands should be weighed.

Every swarm that is hived in May, or before the middle of June, in a

moderate season will afford a glass of honey, of from six to twelve

pounds, besides their winter's store; and in very good seasons, I have

frequently taken twenty-five and sometimes thirty pounds, leaving the

hive very rich. The most proper time for putting the glass or box

upon the swarm will be from the eighteenth to the twenty-first day

after their being hived, and should it be quickly filled and more room

required, lift up the glass as directed at page 23.

CHAPTER XIII.

_Description of a knife for cutting

out the combs. (fig, 6,)_

This knife, which is so simple in its construction, and so easily

used, deserves to be made generally known. Gelieu, to whom Apiarians

are much indebted, tells us, that in Switzerland it is commonly used,

and that the combs from hives of any shape or materials are extracted

without any difficulty. It is formed of a slip of steel (see fig. 6.)

two feet long, by an eighth of an inch thick, the handle is twenty

inches long, by half an inch broad, the turn-down blade of two inches

in length, is spear pointed, sharp on the edges, and bent so as to form

an angle of 90 degrees with the handle; the other blade is two inches

long, by one and half broad, and sharpened all round; the broad blade

cuts and separates the combs from the sides of the hive, and the spear

point, which is also sharp on each side, admits, from its direction and

narrowness, of being introduced between the combs to loosen them from

the top of the hive.

CHAPTER XIV.

_Remedies proposed, as cures, for the Stings of Bees._

"The sooner the Sting is extracted," says Dr. Bevan, "the less venom

is ejected, and consequently less inflammation induced. To alleviate

the irritation, numberless remedies have been proposed, of the most

opposite kind and uncertain effect; as oil, vinegar, bruised parsley,

burnet, mallow, or the leaves of any succulent vegetable, (renewed as

soon as warm, and probably therefore, operating by cold alone) honey,

indigo dissolved in water, &c., &c., the most effectual remedy appears

to be Aq. Ammon, or Spirits of Hartshorn, nor is this surprising, when

we consider that the venom of the Bee is evidently Acid."

I have known both the pain and inflammation greatly relieved by

Laudanum; but for myself I could never experience the slightest relief

from its application.

Its effects are very different in different persons, for, whilst a

single Sting will sometimes produce alarming symptoms in one person,

another may receive many without being inconvenienced either by pain

or swelling; this I am sorry to observe is not my case, for a single

sting causes me the most acute pain, accompanied by violent swelling

and inflammation, which lasts two or three days; the above remedies

have proved totally ineffectual in affording me the slightest relief,

but I consider myself very fortunate in having lately met with almost

a perfect cure, and it is as immediate as it is effectual; I have much

pleasure in communicating it, for notwithstanding every precaution,

persons, who are much amongst Bees occasionally meet with a sting.

The method I have of late adopted, by which the pain is instantly

removed, and both the swelling and inflammation prevented, is to pull

out the sting as soon as possible, and take a piece of iron and heat

it in the fire, or for want of that, take a live coal, (if of wood the

better, because it lasts longer) and hold it as near to the place as I

can possibly endure it, for five minutes; if from this application a

sensation of heat should be occasioned, a little oil of Turpentine or

Goulard Cerate must be applied.

During the last three years I have used for myself and those about me,

who might chance to meet with a sting, a still more effectual remedy

than the above, and as its application is more simple, it is certainly

to be preferred. It consists in applying the least possible quantity

of _Liquor potassæ_, immediately upon removing the sting, either with

a fine camels' hair pencil, a sharp pen, or even with the point of a

needle. The venom of the Bee being an acid, this very powerful alkali,

consequently neutralises it, the pain is instantly removed, and

neither swelling nor inflammation follow. Should too large a quantity

of this alkali be used, (as from the hurry in which it is usually

sought after frequently happens) the part should be plunged into cold

water, or a scar will be the consequence, which will last for some

days. I have found the quicker the application, the more effectual the

cure.

CHAPTER XV.

_Means of preventing the Bees from being stolen,

especially in the Country._

I entirely disapprove of Houses of every description for Bees, as a

protection against weather, because they tend in various ways most

effectually to destroy the lives of those valuable insects, for, as

before stated, they form a shelter for, and promote the increase of

some of their most determined enemies; but there are other things to

provide against, not only robbers of their own species, but those

who would carry away hives as well as honey, and at the request of a

friend, who has twice been deprived of all his hives by this latter

description of robbers--I am induced to give what in my opinion is the

best kind of house to answer this purpose, and likely to be the least

injurious to the Bees. It may be sufficiently wide to allow of six

hives with a milk-pan upon each, to be placed in a line, which will

occupy about eleven feet, its depth may be about twenty-two inches,

the top and ends weather boarded, the front and back composed of wood

or iron bars, placed so that a small hive or box will not pass between

them, the front ones may be fixed, but those at the back must be made

to remove, and secured by a lock.

At fifteen inches from the ground must be placed two pieces of wood,

about four inches square, well secured by cross pieces at the ends of

the house, and by an upright in the middle, upon these pieces place the

boards on which the hives stand, sufficient height must be given to

allow of two boxes to be placed upon a hive, three feet at least should

be allowed.

Another method of security may be adopted which is equally effective,

and as the inconveniences of a House are avoided, perhaps it is the

most preferable. It is to have a stout iron ring of four inches in

diameter, a little flattened at the sides so as to become oval, worked

in the back of the Hive a little below its centre, when the Hives are

placed in a line upon pedestals of equal height, a chain may be passed

through these rings, and locked at each end.

CHAPTER XVI.

_Method of Dislodging Bees from Trees or Buildings,

and putting them into Hives._

It very rarely happens that Bees in Buildings or in Trees survive the

Winter, cold and humidity usually kill them, but the comb and the

little honey remaining in it induces others to visit their abode in

the Spring, and which in all probability will be followed by a Swarm

from some neighbouring Apiary in May or June, and on this account Bees

are said _always_ to be there, a little observation will prove the

incorrectness of this statement, and I believe the only criterion by

which it can be proved that Bees have _actually existed in such places

through the Winter_, is to see them carrying in pellets of farina upon

their legs in March and the early part of April.

The most proper time for dislodging a Stock, which from having fixed

upon some warm and dry abode, has lived through the Winter, is towards

the end of May, or the beginning of June, but a Swarm ought to be

removed upon the day of its arrival, or as soon afterwards as possible.

The only method that I can recommend at all likely to succeed, and

which I have found to answer the purpose, is to lay the combs quite

bare, and then to cut them out one by one, sweeping the Bees with a

feather, or the back of the knife, from each piece of comb into an

empty hive.

Should the Queen not be observed during this process, it will be

advisable to take a leaf of comb that is filled with eggs or brood,

and fasten it inside the hive intended for the Bees, that they may

be enabled to make a new one, should their original Queen have been

killed or lost during this operation; for it is now proved beyond all

doubt, that they have the power of doing this, provided they have

either eggs or brood in their hive.

The use of a little tobacco smoke throughout this operation will be

necessary, a cigar in the mouth of each operator (for there must be two

persons, if not more, engaged in it) will be found sufficient.

The Queen Bee may easily be distinguished by a common observer, her

wings are very short, not extending beyond one half of her body, which

is much longer, and more pointed than that of the working Bees, her

legs are copper coloured, and her body brown.

The combs being all removed and the Bees swept off them into the hive,

it must now be put upon a board and placed exactly where the Bees

entered before they were disturbed, and, if possible, it should remain

in this situation till Autumn, but its remaining for a week or two is

absolutely necessary; should there be many combs filled with brood,

three or four of them may be placed in the hive, by putting some wooden

pegs at the top of it to keep them at proper distances, and allowing

them to rest upon the hive-board.

This, however, is a tedious operation and very seldom pays for the

trouble it occasions; for stocks thus obtained are generally weak and

require feeding, or to be united to others to keep them alive through

the winter. It is, therefore, more to the advantage of the proprietor,

to cause the combs in trees or building, in which Bees have died, to be

destroyed, and the places effectually stopped up with clay or mortar.

CHAPTER XVII.

_Description of Nutt's newly invented Hive, for

obtaining Honey without destroying the Bees._

This Hive consists of three collateral Boxes, (see fig. 8.) the

centre one fourteen inches, and the side ones ten and a half square

inside measure, depth eleven inches; the middle box has a number of

holes in the top three quarters of an inch in diameter, bored in the

circumference of a circle six inches in diameter, with one in its

centre, over which a glass is placed. The side boxes (_aa_) have each

a hole of four inches square in the centre of the top, into which is

fitted a piece of tin pierced with small holes, and in its centre a

hole of an inch in diameter, wherein is placed a tube of tin of the

same size, reaching nearly to the bottom of the Box, and supported

by a shoulder resting upon the square tin, which is also perforated.

This square tin and cylinder constitute the ventilator, the opening in

the Boxes is covered by a piece of wood, (_bb_) the Boxes have each a

glazed window (_c_). The centre Box communicates with the side ones

by a grating cut in the wood and corresponding with each other, this

communication is cut off when necessary by sliding tins.

The method that I have adopted for protecting this Hive from wet, is

to cover the glass with a common straw hive, upon which a milk-pan is

placed, and each of the side boxes by two pieces of board eleven inches

by fifteen, put together so as to form an angle of ninety degrees,

resembling the roof of a cottage. The whole should be made of inch deal

and well painted, the board upon which the three boxes stand must be

of two-inch deal and of one piece, except the alighting board which is

nailed on; three strong pieces of two inch deal will be necessary on

the under side of the board as braces to prevent its warping.

In this I have differed a little from Mr. Nutt, because I think the

solid board more substantial and less likely to harbour insects, his

being hollow to allow the bees to escape at the time of deprivation,

when the communication between the centre and the side boxes is cut off

by means of the sliding tins, for which I have made provision by having

an entrance at the back of each of the side boxes, to which is attached

a copper slider, (fig. 10.) but without the entrance for a single Bee.

The middle Box must be stocked in the usual way, by hiving a swarm

into it, and if the swarm be not a large one, it will be better to put

two swarms into it as directed in Chapter VIII. It will be necessary

to have both the top and side tins securely fastened to the centre

box at the time of hiving, and till after the union, when they may

be removed, thereby giving the bees the full range of all the boxes

as well as of the glass upon the centre one, nothing further will

be required till the next Summer, except carefully placing the roofs

to defend the boxes from wet. "Perhaps," says Mr. Taylor, "there is

nothing more prejudicial to Bees than the moisture they engender during

the Winter season, particularly after frost, and in certain states of

the atmosphere. It accumulates on the top and sides of the pavilion,

moulding and rendering offensive the combs, and producing disease. For

this reason boxes with flat roofs have been objected to. I have tried

different experiments to obviate this serious evil, and have found

nothing better than the practice of condensing the vapour as much as

possible and conveying it away. This I have done for several years by

means of the bell-glasses.

[Illustration]

"At the beginning of Winter I place over the holes on the top of the

pavilion, pieces of perforated zinc, and on these I set the glasses,

each within a circular leaden or zinc trough, open in the centre. As

the exhalation rises from the warmth below, it is condensed on the

glass, and received, often in considerable quantity, in the troughs. An

imperceptible current of air is thus produced, of great advantage to

the inmates; for ventilation is as much wanted in Winter as in Summer,

and particularly when the population is numerous. The holes at the top

of the glasses may be left open to assist this, for of two evils it is

better to have too much than too little air. Nor, with good protection

from weather, need the effects of cold be apprehended; for the Bees,

(if not weak in numbers) will always of themselves generate sufficient

warmth, and a dry, cold season is better withstood than a mild, moist

one, particularly after a good honey year."

This leaden or zinc trough of Mr. Taylor's exactly resembles in form

the feeder mentioned in page 57.

In the following Summer, when the Bees are working in the side boxes

and the glass, the ventilation must be particularly attended to, (for

upon this _alone_ depends the success of the hive,) and here I would

especially recommend Mr. Taylor's ventilator as given in page 26; a

small thermometer should be kept in one of the ventilating tubes, and

when it is observed above ninety degrees of Fahrenheit, the covers

(_bb_) must be taken off, and should the temperature of the boxes be

found at, or above a hundred, the perforated copper slides at the back

of the side boxes must be used, for if it reaches to a hundred-and

thirty, a Swarm in all probability will leave the hive, which next to

starvation is most fatal to this mode of treatment. When either of the

side boxes or the glass upon the top of the centre one is filled with

honey and sealed up, introduce the dividing tin; if the glass, remove

it immediately thirty or forty yards, from the hive without changing

its position, leaving room at the bottom for the Bees to escape, which

they will very soon do, but if either of the side boxes are to be

taken away, open the copper slider at the back of the box, and in less

than an hour from the time of the dividing tin being introduced, the

bees will have made their escape and joined the centre box, it may then

be removed, emptied and replaced, or another may be substituted for

it. All operations must be performed upon a fine and bright day. The

entrance to the centre box should be opened to its fullest extent, by

removing both the sliders from the first of April till the first of

September.

CHAPTER XVIII.

_The Apiarian s Monthly Manual, or Hints for the

Management of Bees for every month in the year,

upon the Depriving System._

JANUARY.

Should the cold be intense, no operation whatever should be performed

on the Bees that requires the removal of the hives. If snow be on the

ground keep the perforated sliders (page 18.) closely down that air may

be admitted, but not a Bee allowed to escape until it be thawed; but

immediately upon the disappearance of the snow remove the slider, and

give them full liberty. I have known many stocks lost by not attending

to this precaution, and more especially after a long confinement, do

not suffer the snow to melt either upon the covers or hive-boards, but

brush it off every day as it falls. Attend regularly to the condenser

(page 92) which to boxes with flat roofs is a very necessary and useful

appendage.

FEBRUARY.

Upon a mild day in this month let the floor board of each hive be

cleaned, and a little food administered, should the stock of honey be

very low. See that the coverings be sound, and that no moisture comes

upon the top of the hives. Should it be found that any of the hives

have perished, which will sometimes occur, and from causes which cannot

be exactly ascertained, let them be immediately removed, and the honey

which they contain taken out, and reserved for feeding those that may

require it.

MARCH.

Clean the hive-boards again, and should any of the stocks require

feeding, supply them, attending strictly to the directions given in

Chap. IX. Towards the end of this month place a vessel, containing

water, near the Bees, as directed in page 3. This also will be found

a good time to examine the pedestals upon which the hives stand, for

after remaining for some years in the ground they are subject to decay

at a few inches below its surface, especially if regard was not paid to

the quality of the timber at the time of fixing them.

APRIL.

Clean the hive-boards for the last time, and supply food, if required,

as before directed. The Wax-moth, that redoubtable enemy to Bees,

appears this month; they may be seen frequently at twilight running

upon the outside of the hives: destroy them as much as possible, and,

as Huish says, "frighten not away the Bats that fly about the hives,

for they destroy numbers of them." A full supply of small hives, boxes,

glasses, and adapters should now be provided, old ones cleaned, or new

ones purchased. A few large hives also should be ready, for if from

inattention to giving room and ventilation, a swarm should be compelled

to leave their hive, they will be wanted.

Weak hives are now very subject to an attack from robbers, the best

protection that can be afforded them is the slider, page 18, with

the help of which three or four Bees will guard the entrance more

effectually than many times that number without it.

MAY.

The time will now have arrived for supplying each stock with a small

hive or other receptacle for honey, as directed in Chap. IV. and should

the season be a favourable one, the supply even of a second may be

found necessary before the end of the month. Continue to destroy Queen

wasps and hornets, and to watch carefully for moths. Should the bees

of any hive appear inactive at this time, or should they not be seen

to carry in pellets of farina whilst others are doing it, and this

inaction continue for eight or ten days, lose no time in examining

the hive, and should the moths have begun their work of destruction,

which may be known by seeing the combs joined together by their silken

webs, cut away the combs affected with a sharp knife, and the hive may,

perhaps, be saved.

JUNE.

Strict attention should now be paid to room and ventilation, for,

as has been said in page 24, if both these be carefully observed,

_swarming may be prevented altogether_. Swarms may now be purchased as

directed in Chap. II. About the middle of the month, in good seasons,

small hives and glasses may be taken off, full directions for which may

be found in Chap. V.

At the end of the month look for wasps' nests, and destroy them;--a

very easy and effectual method of doing it is to fill a common squib or

serpent case with a mixture of sulphur and gun-powder, in equal parts,

with a very small quantity of nitre all finely powdered and rammed very

hard into the case, set fire to it by means of touch-paper, and when

in a state of ignition, stick it into the hole of the nest and place

your foot upon it, when it ceases to burn let a person with a spade

turn out the nest; in this manner a great number may be effectually

destroyed in one night. And a more simple method than this, even, has

been recently discovered: It is by putting turpentine in a bottle, and

inserting the neck of the bottle into the hole leading to the nest and

surrounding it with earth; very little turpentine is required, merely

as much as will wet the sides of the bottle; if applied in the dusk of

the evening every wasp will be dead by the following morning. "In no

instance,"--says a Correspondent, in the _Gardeners' Chronicle_,--"have

I known it to fail of the desired effect, except in cases where the

nest was deeper in the ground, or at a greater distance from the mouth

of the hole than I had anticipated; a partial failure may sometimes

occur where there happens to be two entrances to the nest, instead of

one, but a second application the following evening is sure to prove

effectual."

JULY.

Small hives and glasses must now be taken off as they are filled and

sealed up, (and stored in cool places, observing to keep them in the

same position as when standing upon the stocks,) and their places

supplied by empty ones. Go on destroying wasps' nests.

AUGUST.

Continue to take off hives and glasses as they are filled, but supply

no fresh ones, the honey season being now chiefly over.

SEPTEMBER.

Small hives remaining upon the stocks that are only partially filled

with honey may now be taken off, providing the stock will not be too

much impoverished thereby; wherever the chance of this presents itself

leave them on through the winter, or until they are emptied by the

bees; those partially filled hives taken from rich stocks may be given

to weak ones, now, or in the spring as required. Robbers will at this

time be carrying on their depredations, and should a serious attack be

observed the sliders must be used as before directed.

OCTOBER.

Examine the coverings to the hives that they be all sound, and that no

rain be admitted through them; the entrances may now be narrowed; if

Taylor's slider be used (page 18) the side with three openings will be

most proper for this season.

NOVEMBER.

Clean the floor-boards of the hives, and see that they stand firmly on

their pedestals, contract the entrance so that only one bee can come

out at a time, for at this season mice are likely to lodge themselves

in the hives.

DECEMBER.

The same attentions are necessary this month as in the two preceding,

but if the cold should be intense the hives must not be removed.

FINIS.

INDEX.

Page

Apiary, situation of 1

Apiary, to be near the residence of the proprietor 3

Adapter, description of 33

Aspect for an apiary 1

Bee-boxes, size of 22

Bee-glasses, to place 21

Bee-houses, injurious 3

Bee-mask and gloves 29

Bee-sting, to cure 78

Bees, their disposition to swarm in a wet season 24

Bees, to expel from a glass or box 31

Bees, age of 35

Bees, to purchase 10

Bees, torpid at 32° of Fahrenheit 19

Bees, swarm at 130° of Fahrenheit 25

Bees, enemies of 36

Bees, to dislodge from trees 85

Cleaning floor boards 5

Comb-knife, description of 76

Condenser, Taylor's 92

Damp, to guard against 102

Diseases, in Bees, the cause of 20

Duration of a hive 63

Early flowers, a list of 7

Elevation of a hive 4

Enemies of Bees 61

Entrances for hives 18

Feeding, method of 54

Feeding, proper time for 54

Feeder, fountain 56

Feeder, Wildman's 57

Floor-boards, to clean 100

Food proper for Bees 58

Gelieu, his Work on Bees recommended 15

Glass of honey, to take 30

Glass of honey, to expel Bees from 31

Gloves, proper for defence against stings 29

Honey quantity to take from a swarm 74

Hive, flat top, advantages of 17

Hive-guard, described 66

Hive-dressing, remarks on 71

Hive, improved cottage 17

Hive, Nutt's described 87

Hive, small (or Cape) described 22

Hives, manner of placing 5

Hives, materials for making 15

Hives, to paint recommended 16

Human breath offensive to Bees 29

Increase of Bees 35

Interior of a hive to be examined before purchased 11

Instructions for depriving Bees 30

Knife for cutting out combs 76

Man, the principal enemy of Bees 60

Manual, Apiarian's Monthly 96

Method of giving food to Bees 54

Method of uniting swarms and old stocks 46

Method of uniting second and third swarms 42

Method of uniting second and third swarms (preface) 5

Method of placing glasses upon the Improved Cottage Hive 21

Milk-pan, good protection for hives 22

Mortar or clay, injurious to hives 4

Moths' wax, described 63

Operations, noon the best time for 28

Painting hives, benefit of 16

Plants, to cultivate 7

Pollen, useless as food 11

Purchas, quotations from 36, 67

Purchasers of hives, caution to 11

Queen, Bees power to produce a 40

Queen-wasps, to kill in spring 66

Robber-bees, to know 33

Removing Bees 10

Slider, Taylor's described 18

Snow, a great cause of the destruction of Bees 19, 96

Snow, Bees to be confined in their hives so long

as it remains upon the ground 19

Stealing of Bees to prevent 82

Sticks in a hive, injury of 72

Stocks, method of joining 44

Stocks and swarms to unite 46

Stocks, ages of 73

Tomtit, an enemy to Bees 65

Temperature of hives 25

Thermometer useful in swarming time 27

Ventilation and room prevents swarming 25

Ventilator, Taylor's recommended 26

Wasps-nests, easy way of destroying 101

Water, important in the breeding season 3

Water, method of supplying it 3

London: Newby, Mortimer Street, Cavendish Square.

[Illustration: Figures 1-7

Fig.

1 Improved Cottage Hive

2 Improved Cottage Hive with small hive affixed

3 Hive showing the opening on top

4 Small Hive with glass opening

5 Adapter for small Hive or Box

6 Knife for cutting out the comb

7 Box to be used instead of small Hive

]

[Illustration: Figures 8-10]

* * * * *

Transcriber Note

The text constantly refers to illustration figures from "The Cottager's

Guide" by the same author and are included in the Fourth Edition.

Therefore, a copy of the two Illustrations which show Figures 1-10 have

been provided at the end of the volume. To accomodate placement of the

two footnotes and an associated illustration, a split in the paragraph

was made on page 19 after the word "apparatus".