Several justices of the peace reside in Gairloch parish, but they seldom

hold courts. When they have business they meet at Poolewe. Ordinary

misdemeanours are tried by the sheriff at Dingwall.

There are six licensed houses in the parish, viz., the hotels or inns at

Kenlochewe, Talladale (the Loch Maree Hotel), Gairloch, Poolewe, and

Aultbea, and the small public-house at Cadha Beag in Fisherfield Bay, at

the northern extremity of the parish. The hotels are described in their

places in the Guide. The license to Luibmhor inn has been discontinued.

There is a daily post, conveyed by Mr M'Iver's mail-car, from Achnasheen

to Gairloch, and thence, by a smaller mail-car, also daily, to Poolewe

and Aultbea. Letters are conveyed by runners three days a week to the

villages on the north and south sides of the Bay of Gairloch and on the

west side of Loch Ewe. There is also a runner who takes the post-bags

three days a week (in winter, only two days a week) to the villages

between Aultbea and Gruinard. Mr M'Iver's mail-cars leave and collect

post-bags and parcels at all the villages and places along the line of

the county road.

The telegraph to Stornoway runs alongside of the county road to Poolewe,

and thence for six miles along the shore of Loch Ewe to Firemore, where

it becomes submarine. There is a supplemental wire serving Kenlochewe,

Talladale, and Gairloch, to and from which places, as well as to and

from Poolewe, telegrams may be regularly transmitted.

The carrier of Messrs Wordie, of Edinburgh, conveys goods from

Achnasheen to Kenlochewe and Torridon in the first half of each week,

and from Achnasheen to Gairloch and intermediate places in the second

half of each week.

The bank at Gairloch, a branch of the Caledonian Bank, is a substantial

building, a little to the north of Charlestown, and nearly a mile from

the Gairloch Hotel. Mr Alexander Burgess is the manager.

There are cattle markets held twice a year at Gairloch and Aultbea, and

once a year at Kenlochewe and Tollie; they are of little more than local

importance.

One or two members of the preventive service are stationed at Gairloch;

their chief work is to detect illicit distillation.

Mr David Macbrayne, of Glasgow, provides a service of steamers on the

west coast. One of his large steamers, with cargo and passengers, calls

every Saturday at Gairloch, Poolewe, and Aultbea. In summer there is a

regular service of swift steamers to or from Oban, and to and from

Portree in Skye.

Mr Hornsby's little steamer the _Mabel_ plies on Loch Maree during the

summer months.

Full particulars of these steamers are to be had at the hotels; and Mr

Alexander Burgess of the bank, who is agent for Mr Macbrayne, is always

ready to supply every information.

A company of rifle volunteers was organised by Mr Alexander Burgess (who

was the first lieutenant) in 1867, and is still in a flourishing

condition. Sir Kenneth Mackenzie was captain for nearly fifteen years,

and was succeeded in the command by Mr Burgess, who, on his retirement

from the corps in 1883, was permitted, after his long service of sixteen

years, to retain his rank of captain. The present officers are, the

writer as captain, and Mr Malcolm Lamont and Mr Anthony MacClymont as

lieutenants. The sergeants are as follows:--Colour-Sergeant Alexander

Macpherson, Opinan; Sergeant Roderick Macintyre, Strath; Sergeant John

Maclennan, Inverasdale; and Sergeant Alexander Bain, Lonmor. The corps

includes a number of fine tall men; the right-hand man stands six feet

four inches in his stockings, and a number of the rank and file are

fully six feet in height. The pipers are Mr A. Mackenzie, Mr W.

Maclennan, and Mr W. Boa. The company is worked in three separate

sections, viz., the headquarters section at Achtercairn, the

"south-side" section at Opinan, and the Poolewe section. The sections

meet occasionally for combined drill during the spring months. The

disused schoolhouse at Achtercairn has been granted by Sir Kenneth

Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, at a nominal rent, for an armoury and

drill-hall. There is a good drill-shed at Opinan, and the Poolewe Public

Hall is hired for drills there. There are rifle ranges at each of the

three centres. Each section has its annual shooting competition, the

prizes being mostly provided by subscription, to which the gentlemen in

the neighbourhood handsomely contribute. Besides money prizes, there are

an antique challenge cup presented by Mr Bateson of Shieldaig, and a

challenge cross given by Mrs Burgess, which are competed for

periodically.

The principal houses in the parish of Gairloch are the Kenlochewe Lodge,

Flowerdale House, Shieldaig Lodge, Pool House, Inverewe House, Tournaig,

Drumchork House, Inveran, Ardlair House, and Letterewe House. Flowerdale

House is occupied part of the year by Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie, Bart. of

Gairloch. It was built in 1738 by Sir Alexander Mackenzie, Bart., the

ninth laird of Gairloch; it is an interesting old house, and has a

curious façade (_see frontispiece_). Its gardens contain some plants

which exemplify the general mildness of the west coast winters.

Flowerdale is usually let with shootings for the shooting season, from

12th August till the end of October. Inverewe House is the beautiful

residence of Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie, situated in the north corner of the

bay at the head of Loch Ewe. It is also usually let for the shooting

season, and sometimes, with angling, for the spring and summer.

Kenlochewe, Shieldaig, and Drumchork are also shooting-lodges, but Mr C.

E. Johnston lives at Drumchork House during a greater part of the year

than the ordinary shooting season. The Dowager Lady Mackenzie of

Gairloch resides at Tournaig; and the writer at Inveran. Mr and Mrs Liot

Bankes have erected a spacious mansion, with extremely lovely prospects,

at Ardlair, beneath the cliffs of Beinn Aridh Charr. Mr Charles Perkins,

the lessee of the Fisherfield deer forest, has enlarged the old house at

Letterewe, where he resides during the shooting season, and he has

erected a shooting-lodge near the head of the Fionn Loch. Sir Thomas

Edwards Moss, Bart., is the lessee of Pool House, at Poolewe, which has

been enlarged, and he rents shootings along with it.

Of other houses mention may be made of Kerrysdale, an old house, which

has been frequently occupied by a younger brother or by a son of the

laird of Gairloch. There is a roomy house at Carn Dearg, about three

miles from the Gairloch Hotel. It was erected by Mr George Corson, of

Leeds, and commands a fine view of the bay of Gairloch and the Minch

with its islands. It is remarkable for its high-pitched and red-tiled

roof. The old house on Isle Ewe is occupied by Mr William Reid, the

farmer. The farmhouse at Slatadale is a modern building. The Established

Church manses at Gairloch and Poolewe, and the Free Church manses at

Gairloch and Aultbea, are substantial houses.

There is at Poolewe a building used as a public hall. It comprises a

reading and recreation room, which is available for meetings, and though

comparatively small is sufficient for the population. It was opened on

12th February 1884 by a meeting, at which Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie

presided. It contains accommodation for a caretaker, and it is intended

to provide an additional recreation room. The profits, if any, of this

book are to be devoted to this little institution.

Chapter II.

APPROACHES AND ROADS.

There are four approaches to Gairloch by road.

1. FROM ACHNASHEEN.

This is indeed the mode of entering Gairloch by road most generally

adopted. The traveller usually reaches Achnasheen by rail. No

time-tables will be given in this book. Trains, steamers, and mail-cars

run at different times, and those times are liable to continual

variations. The traveller should consult the printed time-bills issued

from time to time, and which may always be seen at the hotels. The route

from Achnasheen is described in our next chapter. It has many

advantages. It avoids the uncertainties of a sea-voyage, and is worked

in connection with the trains on the Highland Railway.

2. FROM LOCH CARRON.

A new road has been made from Achnashellach, leading from the main Loch

Carron road through the Coulin forest, past Loch Coulin, to Kenlochewe.

This road is strictly private. It passes through magnificent scenery,

but as it is not available to the ordinary tourist it is not necessary

to describe it here.

3. FROM LOCH TORRIDON.

There is a road from Loch Torridon (described in Part IV., chap. viii.)

by which Kenlochewe may be reached. This road enters Gairloch parish

about six miles from Kenlochewe. Drive from Strathcarron to Shieldaig of

Applecross, where there is a humble inn, and proceed thence on foot, or

horseback, or by boat to the head of Loch Torridon. There is a

right-of-way up the loch side to Torridon, and part of it is a good

road. There is no difficulty in procuring a boat at Shieldaig. This

approach to Gairloch not only includes the scenery of Glen Torridon, but

also that of Glen Shieldaig, which is very fine, and well worth seeing.

The route is strongly recommended. There is no hotel at Torridon, nor is

there any service of steamers into Loch Torridon. Those travelling in a

yacht will find it a pleasant expedition to visit Loch Maree and the

adjacent parts of Gairloch from Loch Torridon. All who enter Gairloch by

this route must walk from Torridon to Kenlochewe, unless conveyances

have been previously ordered to meet them at Torridon.

4. FROM GRUINARD AND THE NORTH.

The estate road between Gruinard and Aultbea having now been rendered

passable by carriages, there is no reason why it should not be used as a

means of ingress or egress to or from Gairloch parish. The principal

difficulty in the way is, that there is no bridge over the Meikle

Gruinard river, and it cannot always be forded. A minor difficulty, not

however of much importance, is that a quarter of a mile of private road

between the ford on that river and the commencement of the county road

near Gruinard House is in a very bad state. The best method of using

this route as an approach to Gairloch, is either to walk it, taking the

ferry-boat across the Meikle Gruinard river, or else to drive to that

river in a conveyance hired from Garve or from the Dundonell Inn at the

head of Loch Broom, and to have another conveyance from the river to

Aultbea, Poolewe, or Gairloch, as may be desired,--the second conveyance

to be ordered beforehand from the hotel at one of the last named places.

The distances are given in the "Tables of distances." Of course if this

route be selected for leaving Gairloch, the conveyance for the road

north of Gruinard must be ordered beforehand. The route from Garve need

not be described here. The last part lies over Fain Mor, or Feithean

Mor, to Dundonell and Little Loch Broom, and thence forward to Gruinard.

The road from Gruinard to Aultbea is described in Part IV., chap. xii.

When a bridge is erected over the Meikle Gruinard river this route will

no doubt become popular. It reveals some grand scenery.

* * * * *

Besides these approaches by road there is Mr David Macbrayne's service

of west coast steamers, by which a large number of tourists arrive at

and depart from the Gairloch pier during each summer. Gairloch is

reached from Oban in one day, and the arrangements are so complete that

you may even visit Skye from Gairloch and have eight hours in that

interesting island, returning the same day. I have myself done this.

There is an approach to Gairloch which is sometimes adopted, and has its

charms in settled weather. It is to take a boat from Ullapool to Laide,

where, by previous arrangement, a conveyance may meet the traveller from

one of the inns or hotels in Gairloch parish, of which Aultbea is the

nearest. Of course this route may be also used as an egress from

Gairloch, by previously arranging for a boat to be ready at Laide. With

a favourable breeze the part of the journey on the water is delightful,

to those who are good sailors, affording as it does magnificent views of

the mountainous coast and of the Summer Isles. The great drawback is the

uncertainty. I remember once leaving Aultbea, after an early breakfast,

walking to Laide, and owing to a dead calm not reaching Ullapool until 9

P.M.

The pedestrian who is able to take advantage of the rougher roads not

traversable by carriage, and the canoeist who, in summer weather, can

explore any part of the coast at his pleasure, will find other means of

entering Gairloch. Our map will shew all that is needed.

The roads within the parish of Gairloch are named in the "Tables of

distances," which state also their condition. The main road from

Achnasheen to Kenlochewe, Talladale, Gairloch, Poolewe, and Aultbea,

which is maintained by the county, is usually in a good state of repair,

and even the man on wheels--the bicyclist or tricyclist--will find this

road yields him easy running. The great drawback is the steep hills, or

"braes" as they are called, which have to be surmounted. These are for

the most part unavoidable, though in one or two cases the gradients

might be still further improved. The estate and private roads are also

generally kept in good order. They are included in the "Tables of

distances," which specify the parts where carriages will find it rough

travelling.

Loch Maree is itself a sort of highway, and boats may generally be hired

at Kenlochewe, Talladale, or Poolewe to traverse its length. But now

that the little steamer plies on Loch Maree the tour of the loch is

greatly facilitated. (See Part IV., chap. xiii.)

Chapter III.

ACHNASHEEN TO KENLOCHEWE.

The parish of Gairloch communicates with the great railway system of the

kingdom at Achnasheen; the nearest part of the parish is about four

miles from the railway station.

The Dingwall and Skye Railway was opened about 1870, and is now a branch

of the Highland Railway. Before 1870 the Gairloch mail-car started from

the Dingwall railway station. The mail-car was worked at that time, as

now, by Mr Murdo M'Iver, the much-respected and courteous landlord of

the Achnasheen Hotel. At this hotel the traveller may obtain

refreshments _en passant_, or may linger awhile. Notice the luxuriant

growth of the lovely scarlet creeper _Tropæolum speciosum_, on the

hotel. The mail-car leaves Achnasheen for Gairloch soon after the

arrival of the morning train from the south. In the height of the

tourist season it is safest to bespeak seats on the car. More luxurious

tourists may hire open or close conveyances from Mr M'Iver, whose postal

address is "Achnasheen, by Dingwall." The name Achnasheen means "the

field of storms," and is generally allowed to be appropriate. The

obliging station-master may be relied upon to remedy as far as he can

any of those casualties which frequently occur to travellers in the

tourist season, who sometimes move about with an unnecessary amount of

luggage.

To most people it is an agreeable change to lose sight of the railway, a

consummation which is achieved a few minutes after you leave the

Achnasheen Hotel. Over the bridge on the left goes the road to Strath

Carron. Beyond the bridge is the Ledgowan shooting lodge, formerly the

hotel. Notice here the wonderful straight terraces, resembling very

closely great railway embankments. Geologists differ about their origin;

they look like moraines of ancient glaciers or ancient sea-banks, broken

through by the now small river from Loch Rosque, which must have had

larger volume at some remote date. On the left we pass the old Loch

Rosque lodge, and on the right the new one. Near the roadside, below the

new lodge, are to be seen quantities of iron slag, the evidences of

ancient iron-smelting. Similar remains of ironworks may also be observed

by the roadside near the other end of Loch Rosque. These old ironworks

belong to the ancient class treated of in Part I., chap. xvii. Loch

Rosque is over three miles long, and is placed on our list of Gairloch

lochs, inasmuch as its western end juts into the parish. Observe on the

other side of the loch pieces of detached walls, erected to enable sheep

to shelter from the cutting winds which often sweep through this glen.

Most travellers get rather tired of Loch Rosque, yearning as they

naturally do for the superior attractions of Loch Maree. A small burn

near the west end of Loch Rosque is the boundary of Gairloch parish.

Just after passing it is a cottage, and near it stands a square upright

stone. The stone is called Clach an t' Shagart, or "the stone of the

priest." The place is called Bad a Mhanaich, or "the monk's grove." It

seems there was here a settlement of some of the early pioneers of

Christianity. They say that baptisms were conducted at the Clach an t'

Shagart. The name of Loch Rosque itself is believed by many to signify

"the loch of the cross." (See "Glossary.")

After passing the Gairloch boundary there is another humble dwelling

(lately a licensed house), called Luibmhor. It suggests what the inn at

Kenlochewe must have been in the old days as described in Pennant's

"Tour" (Appendix B). On the green at the head of the loch was the

original Luibmhor Inn, the scene of the incident called "The watch of

Glac na Sguithar," related on page 51.

The road now ascends; gradually the eastern hills pass out of sight; the

rugged mountains of Coulin and Kenlochewe are in view during the drive

along Loch Rosque; then they also disappear. At this part of the journey

I always think of what occurred to myself some years ago. I was on the

mail-car, traversing this road in the reverse direction. Near me sat a

tourist, a clergyman of the English Church, who had amused himself

during the preceding part of the journey by inquiring the name of every

hill and place we passed. As soon as the mountain called Scuir a

Mhuilin, to the south of Strath Braan, eastward of Achnasheen, came in

sight, he asked me its name. I told him. When we got near Achnasheen he

again inquired the name of the same hill, which now seemed larger and

grander, and I again told him. Half an hour later he came up to me on

the platform of the Achnasheen station, and asked quite seriously if I

could tell him "the name of that hill." I said with some emphasis,

"Scuir a Mhuilin!" I am bound to admit that the reverend gentleman

tendered a humble apology for his unconscious repetition of the inquiry.

Whether he remembered the name of the mountain I know not. There is no

good to be gained by stating the name of every hill we notice.

Soon after leaving Loch Rosque a curious hill is seen away to the left,

which is said in all the guide-books to resemble the profile of a man's

face looking skywards, and by a stretch of the imagination any traveller

may arrive at the same conclusion.

The ascending road now tends to the right. Near its extreme height an

improvement in the line of the road was effected about 1874. The

original piece of road is visible a little above to the right. It is a

pity some other Gairloch roads are not similarly improved.

At the head of the watershed, 804 feet above the sea-level, we enter

Glen Dochartie, a truly wild Highland glen. Its stern character is

greatly relieved by the exquisite distant view of Loch Maree, half-way

down which, at a distance of about twelve miles from the spectator, Isle

Maree may easily be discerned. There used to be a very good well just

below the road at the head of the glen; the water still flows at the

place, but the well is covered by the new road; this was formerly a

favourite trysting-place of the Gairloch and Loch Broom men when they

went out to lie in wait for the Lochaber cattle-lifters. Glen Dochartie,

and the Great Black Corrie in Glen Torridon, were the entrances to

Gairloch from the south and east. (See stories in Part I., chap. xiii.)

Glen Dochartie has many attractions, especially in the great variety of

colouring on both sides. Perhaps it is best seen on the return journey

by this route. On the right is Carn a Ghlinne (1770 feet), and on the

left Bidein Clann Raonaild (1529 feet). There are remains of ancient

ironworks near the head and at the foot of the glen (Part I., chap. xx).

We travel rapidly down the glen, passing at the foot of it, to the

right, the farm of Bruachaig. Shortly before finishing this stage Meall

a Ghuibhais and Beinn Eighe (or Eay), come into view, the latter being

perhaps the most effective mountain, from an artistic point of view, in

the kingdom. Leaving the Kenlochewe shooting-lodge to the right, and

crossing the bridge over the River Garbh, we pull up at the hotel at

KENLOCHEWE.

The name of this place is in Gaelic Ceann-loch-iu. It signifies the head

of Loch Ewe, by which name Loch Maree was called in the seventeenth

century. Hugh Miller, in that interesting book "My Schools and

Schoolmasters," says:--"The name--that of an old farm which stretches

out along the _head_ or upper end of Loch Maree--has a remarkable

etymology; it means simply the head of Loch Ewe, the salt-water loch

into which the waters of Loch Maree empty themselves, by a river little

more than a mile in length, and whose present _head_ is some sixteen or

twenty miles distant from the farm which bears its name. Ere that last

elevation of the land, however, to which our country owes the level

marginal strip that stretches between the present coast line and the

ancient one, the sea must have found its way to the old farm. Loch

Maree, a name of mediæval origin, would then have existed as a

prolongation of the marine Loch Ewe, and _Kenlochewe_ would have

actually been what the compound words signify,--the head of Loch Ewe.

There seems to be reason for holding that ere the latest elevation of

the land took place in our island, it had received its first human

inhabitants,--rude savages, who employed tools and weapons of stone, and

fashioned canoes out of single logs of wood. Are we to accept

etymologies such as the instanced one--and there are several such in the

Highlands--as good in evidence that these aboriginal savages were of the

Celtic race, and that Gaelic was spoken in Scotland at a time when its

strips of grassy links, and the sites of many of its seaport towns, such

as Leith, Greenock, Musselburgh, and Cromarty, existed as oozy

sea-beaches, covered twice every day by the waters of the ocean?"

Kenlochewe is a thoroughly Highland village, with its shooting-lodge,

hotel, church, school, smithy, and not far away the old burial-ground of

Culinellan. The village is beautifully placed, near the head of the

level strath which spreads south-eastward from the head of Loch Maree.

It comes in for a good deal of rain, being the centre at which four

glens meet, viz., Glen Cruaidh Choillie (often erroneously called Glen

Logan), Glen Dochartie, Glen Torridon, and the great glen of Loch Maree.

The shooting-lodge is surrounded by a well-grown plantation; and other

younger plantations are growing up near the village. The hotel is

exceedingly comfortable, and visitors staying here have the privilege of

fishing in the upper parts of Loch Maree. As the hotel is not large,

rooms should be engaged beforehand. In Pennant's "Tour" (see Appendix B)

is his account of the accommodation he found at Kenlochewe; read it, and

be thankful for the luxuries of the present well-kept house. The neat

little church was erected in 1878 by public subscription; it belongs to

the Free Church, but has not a regularly settled minister. There was in

old days a church or place of worship at or near Kenlochewe. There is a

large grove of tall ash trees in the Culinellan burial-ground, and a

colony of rooks nests annually in them. Several of the stories and

traditions given in Part I. refer to Kenlochewe or its neighbourhood. A

little to the north of the Kenlochewe Free church is the hillock called

Cnoc a Chrochadair, or "the hangman's hill," where some of the M'Leods

are said to have been hung (see page 45). Below the Culinellan

burial-ground is the ford on the river called Athnan Ceann, or "the ford

of the heads." The story relating the origin of this name is given on

page 13. Kenlochewe is a favourite resort of artists, who find many

subjects in the neighbourhood. Beinn Eighe, and the more distant

Liathgach,--both in Glen Torridon,--are superb mountains, and they are

best seen from Kenlochewe or near it.

There are two modes of reaching Gairloch from Kenlochewe. One, described

in the next chapter, is by the county road past Grudidh bridge,

Talladale, Slatadale, and the Falls of Kerry to the Gairloch Hotel. The

other is to take the steamer from Ru Nohar, down Loch Maree to Tollie

pier, and to proceed thence by road to Gairloch, as described in Part

IV., chap. xiii. The mail, which, as has been said, is worked by Mr

M'Iver, of Achnasheen, is not at present in connection with the steamer.

Mr Hornsby, of the Gairloch Hotel, by previous communication, or Mrs

Macdonald, of the Kenlochewe Hotel, so far as regards those who are

staying in her house, will arrange for the conveyance of passengers and

luggage to the steamer at Ru Nohar pier, which is two miles from

Kenlochewe Hotel. In the busiest part of the tourist season there is a

large conveyance awaiting the arrival of the mid-day train at

Achnasheen, to carry to Ru Nohar those who wish to avail themselves of

the steamer route.

Chapter IV.

KENLOCHEWE TO TALLADALE.

Leaving the village of Kenlochewe we see the Torridon road striking off

to the left. A mile further on the road crosses a burn, whose bed is

composed of fragments of white quartzite washed down from the rocky

heights of Beinn Eighe.

Further on to the right is the farm of Tagan, a short distance from the

road. Beyond and above it notice the precipitous spur of Beinn a

Mhuinidh, called Bonaid Donn, and the waterfall (Part III., chap, i.) on

its steep face. In the distance, looking up the glen between the Bonaid

Donn and Slioch, may be observed a curious hill, similar to one noticed

in the last stage; the outline is a silhouette of a man's profile facing

skywards.

[Illustration: UMBRELLA FIR, GLAS LEITIRE.]

As we approach the strand of Loch Maree the woods of Glas Leitire begin,

and now the interest heightens. Wildfowl may often be seen about the

marshy ground at the head of the loch. On the left a spur of Meall a

Ghuibhais, with wild ravines, comes near the road, and the mingled

foliage of the firs and birches enhances the charms of the scene.

Ru Nohar, with its little pier or jetty, is soon reached and passed.

Were it not for the great convenience of the steamer on Loch Maree, and

the new beauties it unfolds, most people would think it out of character

with the wild surroundings.

Passing through the Glas Leitire woods roe-deer and black game may often

be observed. One or two fir trees are of umbrella-like form (_see

illustration_).

Her most gracious Majesty Queen Victoria, in "More Leaves from the

Journal of a Life in the Highlands," describes this part of the route in

the following graphic language:--

"The windings of the road are beautiful, and afford charming glimpses of

the lake, which is quite locked in by the overlapping mountains. There

are trees above and below it, of all kinds, but chiefly birch, pine,

larch, and alder, with quantities of high and most beautiful heather and

bracken growing luxuriantly, high rocks surmounting the whole. Here and

there a fine Scotch fir, twisted, and with a stem and head like a

stone-pine, stands out on a rocky projection into the loch, relieved

against the blue hills as in some Italian view."

[Illustration: ABOVE GRUDIDH BRIDGE.]

The road is almost level until a mile beyond the bridge of Grudidh.

Before we reach this bridge the wild Glen Grudidh, which is one of the

most telling features in the scenery of Gairloch, has come in view. Its

noble centre-piece is the fine peak of Ruadh Stac of Beinn Eighe, which

is the highest summit in Gairloch parish, and attains an altitude of

3309 feet. The smaller peak beyond it acts as a foil to set off its

grandeur.

There are fine old fir trees near Grudidh bridge; in combination with

the rocky course of the Grudidh water they supply a series of splendid

subjects for the artist's brush (_see illustrations_).

A mile further Eilean Grudidh is seen in a little bay. This island is

mentioned on pages 21, 24, and 43, and is described on page 98. It was

many centuries ago a stronghold of the MacBeaths, and afterwards of the

MacLeods.

The road here is wild and dreary. Her Majesty speaks of it thus:--"Part

of the way the road emerges altogether from the trees and passes by a

mass of huge piled-up and tumbled-about stones, which everywhere are

curiously marked, almost as though they were portions of a building, and

have the appearance of having been thrown about by some upheaving of the

earth."

Some rocks by the roadside exhibit fine examples of groovings and

scratchings effected by ice in the glacial epoch.

The rocky hill along the base of which the road passes is Coinneachadh

Beag (1830 feet), a spur of Beinn a Chearcaill. The English of

Coinneachadh is a "meeting-place;" it does not require a great flight of

imagination to picture the famous Hector Roy meeting his warrior forces

on the slope of this wild hill to plan dire vengeance against the

blood-stained M'Leods. Two miles beyond Grudidh bridge the road ascends

and climbs the shoulder of Coinneachadh Beag, which runs out in a low

promontory almost dividing Loch Maree. The highest part of the road is

130 feet above the level of the loch, and affords a fine view of

Letterewe at the other side, and of the hills beyond it, on which is the

place called to this day the Hollow of the son of Black John. An account

of the death of this Macleod at the spot which bears his name will be

found on pages 43 and 44. Descending the western side of the hill we

reach the hamlet of Talladale, at the foot of the Talladale river, which

comes from Strath Lungard. Here are picturesque trees. On the right is

an old lime-kiln, and a little further on the same side the keeper's

house. In the corner of the first field on the left were formerly

ironworks (see page 92). John Roy Mackenzie, fourth laird of Gairloch,

died at Talladale; his piper, Rorie Mackay, spent part of his life here,

and here Rorie's son, the celebrated "Blind piper," was born. Crossing

the bridge, notice the stony bed of the small river and the steep end of

Beinn an Eoin in the distance to the right. Almost immediately we reach

THE LOCH MAREE HOTEL, TALLADALE.

This hotel was built in 1872, and is beautifully placed in a sheltered

bay, backed by a hill called Sron a Choit, 970 feet in height, whose

rocky tops rise above most beautiful natural birch woods. A small pier

or jetty was erected here in 1884 as a landing-place for the steamer.

There are good stables, in connection with the larger posting

establishment at Gairloch. Mr M'Iver, of Achnasheen, has also a stable

not far from the hotel for the horses which work his mail-cars. The

hotel, which has lovely views of Slioch and the islands of Loch Maree,

contains a spacious coffee-room, a private sitting-room, and near a

score of bedrooms. There is a telegraph and post office, and a supply of

boats and gillies waiting for engagement. Visitors here have the

privilege of fishing some of the best parts of Loch Maree. The sport

varies in different years, and is frequently very good. Part IV., chap.

xvii., is devoted to the subject of angling in Loch Maree, which may be

said to continue from the middle of May to the middle of October. The

greatest rush of anglers is from the middle of August to the middle of

September; I recommend those who can to come earlier in the season.

The Loch Maree Hotel has been distinguished by the visit of Her Majesty

Queen Victoria, who occupied the house from 12th to 18th September 1877.

Her Majesty narrates the incidents of this visit very fully in her book

already quoted, to which I beg to refer the tourist. Her Majesty has the

following entry on the day of her departure:--"Got up early and

breakfasted at half-past eight, and at a quarter to nine we left with

regret our nice cozy little hotel at Loch Maree, which I hope I may some

day see again." This visit of our most gracious Sovereign evoked the

reverential loyalty of all in Gairloch, and the popular wish still

cherished among us may be accurately expressed in the old words,--

"Will ye no come back agen?"

In commemoration of the visit of Her Majesty, Sir Kenneth Mackenzie

caused an inscription to be carved on a boulder of the "Torridon red"

sandstone, which stands opposite the front door of the hotel. The

inscription is in Gaelic, and is as follows:--"Air an dara latha-deug

deth mhios meadhonach an fhoghair, 1877, thainig Ban-Righ Bhictoria a

dh' fhaicinn Loch-Maruibhe, agus nan criochan mu'n cuairt. Dh'fhan i sea

oidhche s'an tigh-osda so thall; agus 'na caomhalachd, dheonaich i g'um

biodh a' chlach so 'na cuimhneachan air an tlachd a fhuair i 'na teachd

do 'n chearn so de Ros."

The following is a literal translation:--"On the twelfth day of the

middle month of autumn 1877 Queen Victoria came to visit Loch Maree and

the country round it. She remained six nights in the opposite hotel,

and, in her kindness, agreed that this stone should be a memorial of the

pleasure she experienced in coming to this quarter of Ross."

Chapter V.

TALLADALE TO THE GAIRLOCH HOTEL.

The road from Talladale to Gairloch passes for more than a mile through

the woods which here skirt Loch Maree. Pretty peeps of the loch are

obtained here and there where the trees permit.

As the natural birch wood grows thinner, its place is taken by a thick

plantation of larch. This is bounded by the Garavaig burn, which is

surmounted by a substantial bridge. Crossing the bridge we get a glimpse

of the Victoria Falls (Part III., chap. i.). On the right begin the

fields or parks (as enclosed cultivated lands are always called in the

north) of Slatadale. In the angle formed by the loch and the Garavaig

burn, at the corner of the first park, was the old Garavaig

iron-smelting furnace; and if this field should happen to have been

lately ploughed, the traveller may notice that parts of it are stained

black with charcoal burnings (see page 93). The house of Slatadale,

which is distant two miles from the Loch Maree Hotel, is a neat

building, prettily situated near the margin of the loch.

Along the shore at Slatadale commences the section of the old road,

which follows the line of the loch for some two miles further, and then

strikes up the depression to the south-west of the Craig Tollie range,

and so reaches Poolewe. Remains of this old military road have been

visible all the way from Achnasheen, except in some parts where the

present road is on the same track.

From Slatadale the road to Gairloch rapidly ascends, winding round the

base of a hill named Meall Lochan a Chleirich (1319 feet), which rises

to the left; on the right, but further away, is Meall an Doire. As we

approach the summit, lovely views are obtained of the range of mountains

on the north-east side of Loch Maree (including the conical peak of

Slioch), and of the wide part of the loch with its numerous islands,

which from this point of view stand out distinctly separate from each

other.

A little above the road, on the left, is a large detached fragment of

rock, which bears a curious resemblance to an old stage coach, or

perhaps, more accurately speaking, to one of the old lumbering

_diligences_ of France.

Just beyond the apex of the watershed is a small loch, on the left,

called Fear (or Feir) Loch, and a little further a larger and very

picturesque loch called Loch Bad na Sgalaig; in the distance is the

superb peak of Bathais or Bus Bheinn. For an account of the introduction

of pike into these lochs see Part IV., chap. xviii. The good bag of

eagles recorded in Part III., chap. iii., was made on Bus-Bheinn; and

Iain Liath's well (see page 39) is at the base of the mountain. Near the

road, but on the other side of the River Kerry where it leaves Loch Bad

na Sgalaig, is a keeper's house; and a little beyond it the old road

diverges to the right, at the foot of a hill called Meall Aundrairidh

(1068 feet).

The road now rapidly descends, and in half a mile passes alongside the

Kerry Falls (Part III., chap. i.). Another mile brings us to Kerry

bridge, where Her Majesty Queen Victoria, on 17th September 1877,

graciously met above two hundred and fifty Lews people, who had come

over by steamer from Stornoway to see their beloved Queen, accompanied

by the Rev. Mr Greenfield, their minister.

The road over this bridge leads to Shieldaig and the other places on the

south side of Gairloch. Beautiful patches of natural wood are seen on

all sides, and the colouring of the lower hills is very fine.

A little further, Kerrysdale House is passed. It is a small farmhouse,

with very picturesque surroundings, but is placed rather low. The road

now enters a large larch plantation, and runs for some distance along

the Kerry river. This was a well-known resort of the fairies. The Gaelic

name of Kerrysdale is Cathair Bheag, or the "little seat" of the

fairies. Emerging from the wood, look back at the remarkably fine view

of Bathais or Bus Bheinn. It rises beyond the centre of the deep gorge,

which has dense woods on either side. In the dark depths of this gorge

the River Kerry is seen gleaming far below. Another mile brings us to

the bay and hamlet of Charlestown, in an inner recess of the Gairloch

sea-loch. The houses clustered about the head of this bay (called in

Gaelic Ceann an t' Sail, or "the head of the salt water") are now

generally included in the term Gairloch, as applied to a village or

place. The first house we come to is Glen Cottage, the residence of Mr

Donald Mackenzie, west coast manager for Sir Kenneth Mackenzie. Before

arriving at the post-office several houses are seen below the road and

near the sea to the left, where are some trees of remarkable size,

considering that they actually overhang the tide. The best of these

houses is a lodging-house kept by Miss M'Iver; another is the only

bakehouse in the parish. On the other side of the little bay is the

Gairloch pier, with its storehouse and several houses beyond, called

Port na Heile.

The post-office (which was formerly the Gairloch Inn) is at the head of

the bay of Charlestown. Close by is the burn or small river which comes

from the Flowerdale glen.

Immediately over the bridge that spans this burn is the road, to the

right, leading to Flowerdale House and farm. This road is private. About

a quarter of a mile up it is Flowerdale House, on the left. On the

right, in a field below the road, may be seen the remains of the garden

walls of the Tigh Dige and Stank-house, recalling memories of the old

chiefs of Gairloch, and in a paddock beyond is "the island of justice,"

all described in former pages. Among the farm buildings is the old barn

with the Mackenzie coat-of-arms, including the figure of Donald Odhar,

the great Macrae archer.

After passing the end of the Flowerdale road, the short road leading to

the pier at Port na Heile turns off almost immediately to the left. Just

beyond this point the main road passes the well called "the Gairloch,"

from the story told on page 30.

Before leaving this picturesque little bay, the view up the Flowerdale

glen, with the rocky Craig a Chait rising above the woods immediately

behind the house, ought to be particularly noted. Think of Donald

Odhar's wonderful shot recorded on page 46. Looking out towards the

sea-loch, Fraoch Eilean is seen, celebrated for the slaughter of so many

Macleods in the affair of Leac nan Saighead, the story of which is told

on pages 45 and 46.

It is about a mile further to the Gairloch Hotel. Mounting a "brae," we

pass the Caledonian Bank on the right, and a little further the

Established church, also on the right. Just below the road on the left,

alongside of the Established church, is the hollow in the turf-covered

sand called the Leabaidh na ba bàine, or "bed of the white cow," where

the sacrament of the Lord's Supper is dispensed twice a year. The

gathering on these occasions is well worth seeing; it is described on

pages 118 _et seq._

A little further, to the left of the road, in a flat hollow in the sand

hills, is the Gairloch churchyard or burial-ground, where lie the

remains of the older lairds of Gairloch, and of many of the bards,

poets, and pipers mentioned in this book, as well as of a great number

of the less-known inhabitants of Gairloch. Here also was formerly the

church of St Maelrubha, probably a thatched edifice. Perhaps the most

remarkable gravestone in the churchyard is that of John Hay (see pages

82 and 83), said to have been the last manager of the Letterewe

ironworks. Outside the entrance to the churchyard some fragments of slag

may be seen (page 95). Between the churchyard and the road is the

monument erected to the memory of John Mackenzie of "The Beauties" (Part

II., chap. xxii.). The road now mounts the shoulder of the hill called

the Crasg (mentioned on page 40); and fine views open out of the largest

sandy beach at Gairloch, and of the wide expanse of the bay or sea-loch

of the same name, with the hills of Skye, and some smaller islands

further north, in the distance. At the south-west end of this sandy

beach, a little to the right of the volunteer targets, is the hillock on

which the Dun, the ancient castle of Gairloch, often named in the

traditions given in Part I., and described on page 98, formerly stood.

Some traces of its foundations are still to be seen, as well as slight

remains of a vitrified fort, which is supposed to have occupied the same

site before the castle stood there. On the side of the Crasg overlooking

the churchyard, and a few yards west of the high road, is the Cnoc a

Croiche, or "gallows hill," overhanging a steep ravine (see page 116).

Surmounting the Crasg we rapidly descend, and passing the new Free

church (which actually contains a stained-glass rose window) on the

left, and the Free church manse with its well-kept garden on the right,

we reach at last

THE GAIRLOCH HOTEL.

This hotel was erected in 1872, and enlarged in 1881. It has a large

coffee-room, a good drawing-room, a reading-room, a smoke-room, a

billiard-room, and several good private sitting-rooms, whilst nearly one

hundred and fifty beds can be made up. The hotel is conducted on the

best modern system, and no one should object to the charges, for when

the highest degree of comfort is provided it should be ungrudgingly paid

for. The season is short, and the crowds of visitors it brings are

necessarily a great tax on the resources of the establishment.

During the season services according to the form of the Church of

England are conducted in the house, whilst those who prefer the

Presbyterian churches will find the Established and Free churches in

close proximity.

There is a stall in the hotel where Gairloch hose, photographs of the

district, and other souvenirs can be purchased.

There are excellent gardens and hothouses on the slope behind the hotel,

which is well supplied from them not only with vegetables in season, but

with grapes, flowers, and decorative plants.

Near the hotel is a lawn-tennis ground, which may also be used as a

bowling-green.

Sea-bathing may be had on the sandy beach below; a suitable

bathing-machine is provided. Those who prefer to bathe _al fresco_ and

are able to swim, will find a retired nook immediately to the south-west

of the eminence where the Dun and vitrified fort formerly stood; here

there is a sort of natural swimming-bath, into which a header may be

taken, and which gives space for a good swim. The sea is always as clear

as crystal on this rock-bound coast.

Boats may be hired from the hotel for sea-fishing, or for expeditions on

the Gairloch. The smaller islands may be visited, and the coast on

either side examined.

Loch Tollie is appropriated for anglers staying at the hotel. There is a

boat on the loch, and good trout-fishing may be had on its waters.

There is a small shop in the vicinity of the hotel. In the neighbouring

village of Strath, about a mile from the hotel, are good general

merchants' stores where most things may be purchased.

The Gairloch Hotel is remarkable for the fine view of the broad bay

which is obtained from all the front windows of the house. Beyond the

bay is the Minch, bounded in the extreme distance by the Isle of Skye.

Every atmospheric change invests this beautiful view with a new

character.

Chapter VI.

THE GAIRLOCH HOTEL TO POOLEWE.

Starting northwards from the Gairloch Hotel, the hamlet of Achtercairn

(Part IV., chap, x.) is the first place we pass; Achtercairn House (Dr

Robertson) is on the right.

As the road ascends the Achtercairn Brae the village of Strath of

Gairloch is well seen. The house in the largest grove of trees is the

Established church manse (Rev. D. S. Mackenzie), in the enlargement of

which in 1823 the celebrated geologist and author, Hugh Miller, took

part as a mason's lad. In another grove in Strath is the Cottage

Hospital, founded by Mr Francis H. Mackenzie, but now disused and

occupied as a dwelling-house.

From the higher parts of the Achtercairn Brae there are splendid views

of the Bay of Gairloch and the hills of Skye. From one point near the

top of the Brae the jagged summits of the Cuchullins in Skye may be

discerned.

To the left of the road, as the higher part is gained, there is a fine

deep gorge down which the Achtercairn burn or river rushes; it forms a

pretty cascade in the higher part. A rock on the north side of the gorge

is called Craig an Fhithich, because a raven formerly nested in a

crevice on the face of it. After a short descent notice a large boulder

on the right of the road called "The shoestone" (Clach nam Brog), from

the fact that women who had walked barefoot over the hills on their way

to church at Gairloch were (and still frequently are) accustomed here to

resume their shoes and stockings. To the left is a reedy loch on the

minister's glebe, called Loch Feur, a haunt of ducks and other wildfowl.

Another small loch, called Lochan nan Breac, or Lochan nan Breac Adhair,

lies still further to the left.

At this point notice a singular-looking hill to the right of and nearer

to the road than the Lochan nan Breac. It is an interesting subject for

the geologist. Dr Geikie, speaking of the hummocky outlines of the

gneiss emerging from under the overlying sandstones, writes as follows

of this hill:--"Little more than a mile to the north of the church

(Gairloch) the road to Poolewe descends into a short valley surrounded

with gneiss hills. From the top of the descent the eye is at once

arrested by a flat-topped hill standing in the middle of the valley at

the upper end, and suggesting some kind of fortification; so different

from the surrounding hummocky declivities of gneiss is its level grassy

top, flanked by wall-like cliffs rising upon a glacis-slope of debris

and herbage." Further on, this flat-topped hill, seen in profile, looks

like an enormous railway embankment.

By the side of the road, on the left, there is or was one of those heaps

of stones formed by funeral parties (see pages 115 and 116).

About half a mile beyond the shoestone, and some two hundred yards to

the right of the road, is a pond or very small loch, called Lochan nan

Airm, or the "tarn of the arms," into which long ago warriors vanquished

in a fight near the place threw their weapons (see page 21). The

commencement of a drain, intended to empty the tarn so as to discover

the weapons, is still to be seen; it was stopped by the then laird of

Gairloch, whose permission had not been obtained for draining the tarn.

This tarn is in a hollow on the side of one of the moraines of ancient

glaciers which hereabouts flank the highroad.

About two and a half miles from the Gairloch Hotel the summit of the

watershed is reached. The pass through which the road turns, after a

long ascent, is called "The glen," where is a good spring. To the left

is the rock called Craig Bhadain an Aisc, at which the two little boys

of Allan M'Leod, of Gairloch, were murdered by their uncles and then

buried (see page 26).

At the further end of "The glen" there is on the right hand side of the

road a flat moss called Blar na Fala, or "the plain of the blood,"

because this was a place to which cattle were driven in order that blood

might be taken from them (see page 136).

Further on, Loch Tollie, a mile in length, is spread out on the right.

The trout-fishing of this loch is attached to the Gairloch Hotel, and

there is a boat for the use of anglers. The small island near the shore

with a few bushes on it (_see illustration_) is of artificial origin; it

was a crannog or fortress of the MacBeaths, and afterwards of the

M'Leods. The traditions connected with the island will be found in

chaps. vi. and vii. of Part I. An anecdote of a very different

character, telling how a wild cat and her young were killed on this

island, is given in Part III., chap. iii.

The hill to the south of "The Glen" bears the name of Meall Aridh Mhic

Criadh, and is 1140 feet in height.

Beyond Loch Tollie, to the right, is the northern end of the fine range

of Craig Tollie, which is peculiarly rocky and wild.

The hill to the left of the road before we got to Loch Tollie was Meall

a Deas (749 feet); and now, as we leave Loch Tollie, we have on the left

the end of Meall na Cluibha, or Cliff Hill (750 feet), which is much

finer on its face towards Poolewe, where it rises from a lower plateau.

From the higher part of the road as we skirt Loch Tollie there is a good

view before us, at a distance of some six or eight miles, of Beinn a

Chaisgean (2802 feet), in the parish of Loch Broom, beyond Fionn Loch,

and through a gap in it may be seen some of the jagged summits of the

Dundonell mountains.

At the lower end of Loch Tollie there was formerly a weir or dam in

connection with a mill far down the burn which flows from the loch, and

this kept the water of the loch at a higher level than it now stands at.

[Illustration: LETH CHREAG, TOLLIE.]

After leaving Loch Tollie we can easily trace the old road from

Slatadale winding down the glen behind Craig Tollie. Shortly before it

joins the road we are travelling it is overshadowed by a bold crag,

called Leth Chreag (_see illustration_), on the opposite side of the

burn. The name means the "half rock," and refers to the sheer aspect (as

if half had been broken off) of the face of the rock towards the burn.

The first view of the lower end of Loch Maree now comes in sight, with

the graceful form of Beinn Aridh Charr rising above it. A peak close to

the summit of this mountain bears the name of Spidean Moirich, or

"Martha's peak." It is said that a woman of that name having climbed

this peak sat down and began winding thread on her spindle. The spindle

fell from her hand down the steep rocks to the north-east. Martha tried

to recover the spindle, but fell over the rock and was killed. Hence the

name. To the left of Beinn Aridh Charr are the spurs of Beinn a

Chaisgean Mor, called Scuir a Laocainn and Scuir na Feart, with the

Maighdean to the right. Reaching the point where the branch road leads

down to Tollie pier, a magnificent view of Loch Maree presents itself to

the eye. The whole length of the loch, and Glen Dochartie beyond it, are

in sight. On any tolerably fine day the road up Glen Dochartie is

plainly seen at a distance of not less than fifteen to sixteen miles, a

proof of the wonderful clearness of the northern atmosphere. Beyond Glen

Dochartie in the extreme distance are peaks, thirty miles away, of

mountains in the Monar forest, which retain some snow long after it has

disappeared from the mountains of Loch Maree. Half-way up Loch Maree is

seen Isle Maree, with its grove of tall trees. The immediate foreground

is softened by the natural woods of birch, oak, and rowan round the

bases of Craig Tollie and of the lower hills on the east side of Tollie

farm. This view of Loch Maree has formed the subject of celebrated

pictures by the late Horatio M'Culloch, Mr H. W. B. Davis, R.A., Mr A.

W. Weedon, and other well-known artists. The road so far is the same as

that which is traversed by the carriages or "machines" conveying

voyageurs to the Loch Maree steamer. For our present purpose we shall

suppose the tourist to be proceeding towards Poolewe.

The road now turns abruptly to the left, and rapidly descends the hill

called Croft Brae. The present road is a great improvement upon the old

one, which takes a higher course and has a steeper incline. The old road

went straight down to the banks of the Ewe, but our way proceeds from

the foot of the hill along level ground a little above the river. The

small hamlet or village here is properly called Croft of Tollie,

misspelt in the Old Statistical Account "Croft of Jolly," the last word

being decidedly a _lucus a non lucendo_. This hamlet is usually called

Croft. A short bit of road to the right leads to the landing-place at

the lower extremity of the navigable part of the River Ewe, called Ceann

a Chro, or Cruive End, _i.e._ the head or end of the cruive (for taking

salmon), which formerly spanned the river just below. At Cruive End is a

thatched house called "The still," occupied rent free by several poor

widows. It was originally built for a whisky distillery. Close to Cruive

End there formerly stood a small thatched church or place of worship

(see pages 70 and 99), which was used in the memory of old people now

living, _i.e._ up to about 1826. All traces of it have now disappeared.

On the left of the high road, two hundred yards beyond Cruive End, is

the green hillock called "The hill of evil counsel," where Allan

Macleod, who lived in the island of Loch Tollie (see page 25), was

murdered by his brothers.

Looking back there are beautiful views of the upper reaches of the river

Ewe winding through low wooded hills, which may be called "the Trossachs

of Loch Maree," and a distant peep of the loch itself heightens the

charm of the view.

Further on to the right is the Poolewe manse, well placed on a brow

overlooking the river. To the left is the Poolewe post and telegraph

office, formerly a school.

The group of houses a little further on to the left is called Mossbank.

The tallest house (Mrs Morrison) is a lodging-house. The next is

Mossbank Cottage, occupied by Dr M'Ewen; it has a fruitful walled

garden. Another house, of the usual local type, is occupied by John

Mackenzie (Iain Glas), the present water-bailiff of the river. In a

cottage a little further on lives Finlay M'Kinnon, the Poolewe artist

(Part II., chap. xxiv.). We now enter the village of

POOLEWE.

It is not a beautiful spot, but it perhaps gives one more the idea of a

village than some other more scattered places in Gairloch parish. Mr H.

F. Wilson, of Cambridge, has well described Poolewe, in his racy ode,

dated August 1885, and entitled "Carmen Pooleviense." After speaking of

the Ewe, he says you may see,--

"Just where that river feels the brine,

A bridge, a pool, a whitewash'd line

Of unpretentious cottages,

Differing in sizes and degrees;

A kirk, too ample in extent

To house the shrunk 'Establishment;'

An inn, our 'guard-room,' to command

Wide-reaching view by sea and land;

A windy green, a sandy cliff,

A flag-staff standing stark and stiff;

Such is our πολις, proud to be

Compact, αναγκαιοτὰτη."

Poolewe was formerly called Clive, and, according to the retour of 1638

(page 61), was once "a burgh of barony." There are three merchants'

shops in the village street, also (on the left) the salmon depôt or

boiling-house of Mr A. P. Hogarth, of Aberdeen, the lessee of the

salmon-fishings on the extensive sea coast of Gairloch. It is managed by

Alexander Mutch, of Aberdeen, who generally arrives at Poolewe early in

April and remains until September.

The first building on the right is the Poolewe Public Hall, which though

but a small room suffices for the wants of the place (see Part IV.,

chap. i.).

On the same side at the further end of the village street is the

Established church (Church of Scotland), and on the right is the Poolewe

Inn or Hotel, kept by Mr A. Maclennan. Compared with the Gairloch, Loch

Maree, and Kenlochewe hotels, it yields but humble accommodation. Some

improvements are being effected, and I believe even ladies find the

house comfortable enough. Mr Maclennan carries on a posting business.

Boats can be hired for sea-fishing in Loch Ewe, and trout-fishing can

generally be had on some fresh-water lochs.

On the flat plain behind and to the south of Poolewe and Moss Bank

(called Bac Dubh), a large market, called the Feill Iudha, or "ewe

market" (page 104), was held for generations, and was discontinued about

1720.

Mr Macbrayne's large steamers call at Poolewe once a fortnight. A jetty

and storehouse, where goods are landed and kept dry, have recently been

provided just below Poolewe church. There are considerable quantities of

clayband and hematite iron ores to be seen both here and nearer Poolewe

bridge,--evidences of those ores having been landed here (see page 89).

The Poolewe Free Church meeting-house, and the smithy, with a number of

dwellings, are on the other side of the river. They are, properly

speaking, in Londubh.

At the other side of the mouth of the river is Pool House, formerly the

Londubh Inn. It has been enlarged and improved by Sir Thomas Edwards

Moss, Bart., who has a lease of it with some shootings. He has erected a

stable near the east end of Poolewe bridge, where the smithy formerly

stood.

The hamlet or township of Londubh, including all the dwellings and

buildings on the east side of the lower part of the River Ewe, has since

the erection of Poolewe bridge become virtually a part of Poolewe. The

name Londubh signifies "the black bog." I have heard a native suggest

that the name of the metropolis of Great Britain is pure Gaelic, for the

Gaelic for a brown bog (which the Strand is said to have originally

been) is just Lon-donn!

Many of the houses in Londubh are on a flat hidden by the old sea

terrace, and are therefore scarcely visible from the main road. Londubh,

or Baile na h' Eaglais, was formerly called Inverewe, a name now only

applied to Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie's house opposite. The most conspicuous

house in Londubh is that called Kirkton House, a little above the road

skirting Loch Ewe beyond Pool House. Londubh was formerly part of the

Kernsary estate, and this house, where James Mackenzie, so often quoted

in these pages, now lives, was then the home of the proprietors of

Kernsary. Close to it is the old Inverewe burial-ground. A wall was

built round it a few years ago. Here is the burial-place of the Kernsary

family, formed out of the ancient church or chapel (page 101) which in

old days occupied the site.

Chapter VII.

POOLEWE TO AULTBEA.

Leaving Poolewe we follow the county road over Poolewe bridge, behind

Pool House, and along the shore of the bay that forms the head of Loch

Ewe. Notice the picturesque pool in which the River Ewe joins Loch Ewe,

so much finer than the usual muddy estuary of an east coast river.

After passing on the right the Londubh or Inverewe burial-ground and the

home of James Mackenzie at Kirkton (referred to in the last chapter), we

cross a small burn. This forms the march or boundary between the estates

of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, and his half-brother Mr

Osgood H. Mackenzie of Inverewe. Since the parish of Gairloch was

entered at Luibmhor, near the west end of Loch Rosque, we have been on

the territory of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie.

On the right is Srondubh, with a few trees, and by it the farm buildings

of the home farm in connection with Inverewe House. The road skirts

along well cultivated arable land until the Inverewe plantations are

reached.

Inverewe House was erected by Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie in 1865. It is

beautifully situated in a northern recess of the bay at the head of Loch

Ewe, in the shelter of a rocky headland called Ploc-ard. The house has a

Highland character; it faces due south, and commands a fine view of

Beinn Aridh Charr. To the south the summits of the distant Gairloch

mountains and the rocky ranges of Craig Tollie and Cliff Hill, with the

mouth of the River Ewe and the bay at the head, of Loch Ewe in the

foreground, form an enchanting picture. From the village of Poolewe the

house--surrounded as it is with planted woods now well grown--is a

pleasing object. There are walks in these woods, and separate

sea-bathing places for ladies and gentlemen. There is the best anchorage

for yachts of the largest size close to the house.

The Inverewe gardens are wonderfully attractive, yielding as they do

exquisite flowers nearly all the year round. The following remarks about

these gardens are from one of a series of letters from the Highlands

which appeared in the _Times_ in the autumn of 1883:--

"Thanks to genial winters, from the softening influence of the Gulf

Stream, ornamental gardening richly repays one in those sheltered

situations that slope to the sea-arms. The most enchanting spot in that

way which I have seen is the garden of Inverewe, on Loch Ewe, rented at

present by Lord Fitzwilliam. The garden was laid out by the proprietor,

Mr Osgood Mackenzie, whose taste must be as unimpeachable as his

knowledge of flowers. The gardens form a terraced amphitheatre, shelving

gently towards the Loch, and backed up by the hanging woods, which have

only been recently planted. Fruit-trees, but a very few years old, are

already loaded with plums, pears, &c. The low stone walls that front the

earth-banks are covered with many of the rarer creepers, some of them

almost semi-tropical, with luxuriant myrtles just bursting into flower,

and with clusters of roses of wonderful size. But what is most

remarkable is the marvellous vividness of the colours in such brightly

tinted flowers as crimson roses and scarlet gladioli. The warm damp

seems to give a brilliancy to the tints which I have never seen either

in England or in southern Europe."

The highroad now takes an easterly course, and, passing young

plantations, soon comes in sight of Loch-nan-Dailthean. Here is

Tournaig, the residence of the Dowager Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch, with

its beautiful little garden, described in the _Times_ letter just

quoted, as follows:--

"Even more noteworthy, perhaps, is the less pretentious garden at Mr

Mackenzie's pretty cottage of Tournaig, situate two miles inland. There,

a mere pit in the heather, which must have originally resembled a stone

quarry, has been turned, chiefly by blasting, into a little fairyland of

leafy luxuriance and gorgeous colouring, though where the plants find

soil to strike their roots is a puzzle. As for the cabbages, in their

swelling proportions they are rather like balloons than ordinary

vegetables. And it must be a piquant experience to stroll of a morning

among flower-beds that recall the beauties of Bellagio or the Isola

Bella, and afterwards to go out ptarmigan shooting or deer-stalking on

some of the most storm-beaten hills in the whole breadth of the

Highlands."

[Illustration: DUNAN ON LOCH TOURNAIG.]

About half a mile beyond the head of Loch nan Dailthean, and a mile

south from Tournaig, is the pretty natural wood called Coille

Aigeascaig, whose charms are celebrated in Alexander Cameron's song,

given in Part II., chap. xxiii.

There is a small cave among the hills two miles due east from Tournaig.

It is called Uamh Mhic 'ille Rhiabhaich, or "the cave of Mac Gille

Riabhaich." The cave is close to a loch bearing the same name, on which

are two small islands, one of which seems to have been a stronghold. An

account of Mac Gille Riabhaich, who lived in this cave, is given in Part

I., chap. viii.

In one of the fields at Tournaig is a place where the natives in the old

days used to bleed living cattle landed here from the Hebrides (Part

II., chap. viii.).

At Tournaig the road bends to the left, and passes the Tournaig farm

buildings, where lives Alexander Cameron, the farm manager, who is a

Gaelic poet (Part II., chap. xxiii.). The branch of Loch Ewe which

approaches Tournaig is called Loch Tournaig.

In Loch Tournaig is a small peninsular headland, on the north side of

the Inverewe Point called the Dunan (_see illustration_). This headland

is insulated at high spring-tides. On it a dun, or fort, is said to have

formerly stood, but tradition does not say who held it. There are many

loose stones on the top, though no traces of walls or foundations can be

found. The strongest evidence that this was the site of a fort or other

similar place, is found in the large and regularly placed

stepping-stones which connect it with the mainland. The now superfluous

height of these stones seems to point to their having been placed there

when the sea was at a higher level.

From Loch Tournaig the road ascends, and has a devious and rather

tedious course, until Drumchork is reached. At one point on the way is a

peep of the well-known form of the Storr rock in Skye; and further on a

burn is crossed, which is the march in this direction between the

estates of Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie and Mrs Liot Bankes. The western shore

of Loch Ewe is well seen, with its townships of crofts. Loch Ewe is a

fine expanse of water, opening due north to the Atlantic. Isle Ewe soon

comes fully in view, with its little settlement towards the nearer end;

whilst in the far distance may be seen, beyond the north-eastern

extremity of the North Point and above the mouth of Loch Ewe, the

northern parts of the Long Island, or at least of that part which is in

the county of Ross, and is called "the Lews." Sometimes the three

summits behind Stornoway may be distinctly discerned.

Drumchork, which is nearly seven miles from Poolewe, comprises a

commodious shooting-lodge some way up the hillside (now leased by Mr C.

E. Johnston), and nearer the road, on the right-hand side, a square of

farm buildings, erected about 1880 on the site of the old house of

Drumchork. This place, as well as the village of Aultbea, and the

territory on both sides of the following road, including the whole of

the Green Stone Point (except Mellon Charles, which is Sir Kenneth's),

is the property of Mrs Liot Bankes. Her estate extends westward from

here to a burn on Slioch, where it marches with Sir Kenneth's estate.

Towards the north her property is bounded by the sea, and then by the

Meikle Gruinard river; thus it extends beyond the parish of Gairloch; it

may be said to include all the parts of the parish up to Slioch lying to

the north-east of Loch Maree, the River Ewe, and Loch Ewe, except Mellon

Charles and the Inveran beat belonging to Sir Kenneth, and except the

estate of Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie. The latter extends northwards and

eastwards to Fionn Loch and the summit of Beinn Aridh Charr. The road

turns off, to the left, just below Drumchork, to the village of

AULTBEA.

This village comprises an inn and post-office, and at some distance a

large Free church and manse, with a stable where horses that have

brought people from a distance to attend church can be put up. It may be

said to comprise the hamlets or townships of Aultbea, Badfearn,

Tighnafaoilinn, and Cuilchonich, which cover about a square mile.

The name Aultbea signifies "the birch burn," but there are not many

birches there now. The burn runs into the sea close behind the inn. The

county road at present terminates here. The bay is formed by the Point

of Aird, the channel between which and Isle Ewe is barely half a mile

across, and affords safe anchorage. Here stands Aird House, occupied by

Mr Muir. It was erected by the Mackenzies of Gruinard, and was the

residence of that family for some time.

The inn is old-fashioned, but sufficient for bachelors who do not object

to roughing it a little. The landlord, Mr Forbes, is most civil and

obliging; and excellent angling, both in Loch Ewe and on some good

fresh-water lochs, can be had by those staying at the inn. Mr Forbes can

also provide a good horse and trap, and can arrange for the voyage from

Laide to Ullapool suggested in Part IV., chap, ii., as a mode of exit

from Gairloch. The hand-line fishing accessible from Aultbea, and the

lythe trolling round the north end of Isle Ewe, are probably the best in

Gairloch waters.

One of the two Gairloch policemen is stationed at Aultbea.

The road beyond Aultbea to Laide, and thence forward to Gruinard, has

been put in excellent order by Mrs Liot Bankes, through whose property

it passes. This and the branch roads are described in Part IV., chap.

xii.

Chapter VIII.

EXCURSIONS FROM KENLOCHEWE.

The drives from the Kenlochewe Hotel include those to various points of

interest on the county road in both directions,--_i.e._ towards

Achnasheen on the one hand (Part IV., chap, iii.), and towards Talladale

on the other (Part IV., chap. iv.). Both sections will bear repeated

examination, especially the part from Kenlochewe to Grudidh bridge in

the direction of Talladale.

[Illustration: NEAR GRUDIE]

The excursion to Loch Torridon is perhaps the most interesting

expedition from Kenlochewe. The distance from the hotel to the head of

Loch Torridon is eleven miles; the excursion, including a rest at

Torridon village, will occupy five hours. For a shorter drive or walk

the bridge on the Allt a Choire Dhuibh Mhoir, or "burn of the great

black corrie," may be made the limit. As it is only a good six miles

from Kenlochewe the horses will not require a rest. The road is not at

present complete beyond Torridon, and the visitor who proceeds there

from Kenlochewe must return by the same road, unless he has a yacht

awaiting him at Torridon, or takes the route _viâ_ Shieldaig of

Applecross recommended in Part IV., chap. ii. The road to Torridon

leaves the Gairloch road at the north end of the village of Kenlochewe.

It keeps the Garbh river to the left for some miles. About half a mile

from Kenlochewe, in a picturesque bend of the river, is the hamlet of

Cromasaig, where lived the old bard mentioned on pages 51 and 175. There

are patches of natural birch wood and some rocky salmon pools on the

river. To the right the magnificent mountain Beinn Eighe, with its

quartzite peaks, rises very grandly; and in front are fine views of the

Coulin hills. Fe (or Feith) Leoid is on the hill to the left; its name

records the slaughter of Leod Mac Gilleandreis by Black Murdo of the

Cave (Part I., chap. iii.). Four miles from Kenlochewe, Loch Clair is

reached. It is a beautiful sheet of water, about three quarters of a

mile long, with fine old fir trees on its shores. The new private road

to Achnashellach, ten miles from Kenlochewe, diverges at this point, and

is seen skirting the eastern shore of Loch Clair. There is a rock near

Loch Clair called Maelrubha's Seat, where it is said the saint of Isle

Maree rested when travelling between the monastery of Applecross and his

cell on Isle Maree. Half a mile beyond Loch Clair is a smaller loch on

the left, called Loch Bharanaichd. Two miles beyond Loch Clair the march

or boundary between Gairloch and Applecross parishes is reached. To the

right of the road, on the Gairloch side, is a pile of very large

stones--evidently artificial--heaped up on a flat space. It is called

Carn Anthony, or "Anthony's cairn," and is said to have been erected

long ago in memory of a son, named Anthony, of one of the Mackenzie

proprietors of Torridon. There are some remains of smaller heaps of

stone by the side of the Torridon road formed by funeral processions at

places where they halted to rest (Part II., chap. iii.). Half a mile

beyond the march the road passes over the burn of the great black

corrie. To the left, below Loch Bharanaichd, is a large hollow filled

with a vast number of circular knolls or hillocks. This hollow is called

Coire Cheud Cnoc, or "the corrie of a hundred hillocks." These singular

mounds appear to a casual observer to resemble the artificial sepulchral

tumuli found in other parts of the kingdom, but in reality, as

geologists tell us, they are due to the natural action of ice or water

in ages long since past. Some guide-books erroneously call the place

Coire Cheud Creagh, or "the corrie of a hundred spoils;" the spoils were

cattle lifted--_i.e._ stolen--in Gairloch; they were often driven this

way, so that the name though fictitious has some justification. It was

at shieling bothies near this place that Alastair Ross called for the

Lochaber cattle-lifters, as related in Part I., chap. xiii. Another

traditional incident assigned to this locality is that illustrating the

Rev. Mr Sage's muscular Christianity, narrated in Part I., chap. xvi.

The remainder of the road to Torridon is overshadowed by the mighty

precipices of Liathgach, the highest top of which is 3456 feet above the

sea level. The prefix Beinn often put before the name of this mountain

is superfluous and out of place. Her Majesty Queen Victoria drove to

Torridon on 15th September 1877, and in her diary refers to "the dark

mural precipices of that most extraordinary mountain." Her Majesty

writes:--"We were quite amazed as we drove below it. Beinn Liathgach is

most peculiar from its being so dark, and the rocks like terraces one

above the other, or like fortifications and pillars--most curious; the

glen itself is very flat, and the mountains rise very abruptly on either

side. There were two cottages (in one of which lived a keeper), a few

cattle, and a great many cut peats."

The dark hill to the left is Sgurr Dubh (2566 feet), a gloomy mass of

steep rocks. On its west side, in an elevated hollow invisible from the

road, is the little loch or tarn called Lochan an Fheidh, where the

battle between the Mackenzies under Alastair Breac and the Macleods

under Iain MacAllan Mhic Ruaridh took place in 1610. The Macleods were

completely routed, and nettles still grow over the spot where their

bodies have long since returned to dust. Further on, to the left, is

Beinn na h' Eaglais (2410 feet), or "church hill," a name evidencing the

widespread labours of the followers of St Columba, who brought

Christianity to these parts. The descent down the narrow glen towards

Loch Torridon becomes steeper as we proceed, and in due time the little

village of Torridon, at the head of the loch, is reached. Since the

boundary of the parish of Gairloch was passed the road has been entirely

on the estate of Mr Duncan Darroch, proprietor of Torridon, descended

from MacGille Riabhaich (see page 28); he is an enthusiastic Highlander,

and since he acquired this property in 1872 has done much to improve not

only the estate but the condition of the people. He has erected a noble

mansion on the shore of the loch about two miles beyond the village. He

has recently sold the Beinn Damh estate, on the south side of the river

and loch of Torridon, to the Earl of Lovelace.

A pleasant hour may be spent while the horses are being rested at

Torridon. The low promontory jutting into the loch near the village is

the Ploc of Torridon, mentioned in the story of the visit of John Roy

Mackenzie to Lord Mackenzie of Kintail (Part I., chap xi.). From some

points of view Beinn Alligin and Beinn Damh are conspicuous in the

landscape. Beinn Alligin (3232 feet) is to the north of Loch Torridon,

and is the mountain seen so well from Gairloch; Beinn Damh (2956 feet)

has not such a noble contour. The traveller will probably return by the

road just traversed. In some respects the views seem finer on the return

journey.

Another pleasant little expedition from Kenlochewe is to the Heights of

Kenlochewe, distant about three miles; the road is traversable so far by

wheeled vehicles. Cross the bridge over the Bruachaig river just above

the Kenlochewe lodge, and follow the road which soon bends to the right.

There are good views from different points, especially of Beinn Eighe.

The "Heights of Kenlochewe" is the name of the sheep farm, but the road

does not attain to a level of more than three hundred feet above the

sea. The glen has been erroneously called Glen Logan. The local name is

Glen Cruaidh Choillie. The south-east side of it is called Leacaidh, or

"the place of flags." Can "Logan" have been invented by some one who

mispronounced Leacaidh? The great glen north of the head of this glen is

called Glen na Muic, or the "glen of the pig;" they say wild boar were

formerly hunted here; it must have been long ago. Some old people of the

district locate the Fingalian legend of the "Boar of Diarmid" in Glen na

Muic; but that well known and almost universal story is connected with

many other places in the Highlands.

The path on the east side of Loch Maree forms an interesting expedition,

or series of expeditions, for the pedestrian. Cross the bridge over the

Bruachaig river, as if going to the Heights; turn to the left, and take

the path past the head-keeper's house and the kennels. At a house to the

right Duncan Mackenzie, the Kenlochewe bard, lives (Part II., chap,

xxiii.). A little further are the farm and burial-ground of Culinellan;

some remains of a house outside the burial-ground are called "the

chapel;" it may have occupied the site of an ancient church, but this is

mere conjecture. It is however certain that there was a church in this

neighbourhood in the seventeenth century, and probably much earlier (see

page 99). The river was formerly on this side of the burial-ground; a

great flood altered the course of the stream, and they say washed away

some bodies. Further on, immediately to the left of the path, is a small

well, called Tobar Mhoire, _i.e._ the well of the Virgin Mary, or

perhaps of the god Mourie (see Part II., chap. xi.). There is no better

water in the country than this bubbling well supplies. Some of the old

inhabitants believe that the ancient church called "Heglis Loch Ew"

stood near the well. From a point half a mile beyond Culinellan the path

lies along the bank of the Kenlochewe river. It is about two miles from

Kenlochewe to the south-east corner of Loch Maree. Half a mile before

this is reached is the small pond or swamp called Lochan Cul na

Cathrach, into which the Fasagh ironworkers are said to have thrown

their tools when the furnaces there were abandoned (Part I., chap. xx.).

The name means "the lakelet or tarn at the back of the fairy seat;" a

large mound or hillock at this place is called Cathir Mhor, or "the big

seat of the fairies;" evidently the "good folk" frequented this place.

Some other mounds here are called Torran nan Eun, or "the mounds of the

birds;" the locality was formerly wooded. A large pool on the river is

called Poll a Chuillin, or "the pool of the hollies," but there are no

hollies there now. Another half mile brings us to the remains of the

Fasagh ironworks, on the east side of the Fasagh burn, which comes from

Loch Fada. These ironworks are described in Part I., chap. xx. The dark

crag above is called Bonaid Donn, or "the brown bonnet." There is a

wooden bridge over the burn, a little above the ironworks, and again

above this bridge a narrow gorge; through which the burn has worn a deep

course; it is a very picturesque spot. A quarter of a mile further the

Cladh nan Sasunnach, or "English burial-ground," lies on a low flat bank

close to the loch (Part I., chap. xviii.). Two hundred yards to the east

of this burial-ground the path bends due north; it leads to Letterewe,

and is well worth following as far as Regoilachy. The hamlet of

Smiorsair is about four miles from Kenlochewe. It is situate in a hollow

or dell, between the mighty Slioch (on the north) and a ridge of no

great height stretching between the secluded plateau where Smiorsair

nestles and Loch Maree. It is a romantic place with its waterfall, and a

quiet burn meandering through the flat ground. The path next passes

through a narrow gully called Clais na Leac, where they say ironstone

used to be quarried. A mile beyond Smiorsair is the place called

Regoilachy, near the shore of Loch Maree; there are remains of houses,

but no one lives there now. The other hamlets between this and Letterewe

are each about a mile apart; they are Coppachy, Innis Ghlas, and

Fuirneis. Letterewe House is again a mile beyond Fuirneis; it is a walk

of nine miles from Kenlochewe to Letterewe. The expedition may be

continued beyond Letterewe to Ardlair, four miles, and thence on by

Inveran to Poolewe, another four miles; but some portions of the path

can scarcely be distinguished by strangers, and the part along the

Bull-rock is, to say the least, difficult, and I do not recommend it.

The Fasagh burn and Smiorsair may with advantage be made the objects of

separate excursions, especially by those who sketch.

Perhaps the most generally enjoyable excursions from Kenlochewe are

expeditions on Loch Maree itself. Boats can be hired in connection with

the Kenlochewe Hotel, and many sailing or rowing trips undertaken in

them along either shore of the loch. Not only the angler, but the

searcher after health, the archaeologist, and the artist or amateur

sketcher, will find much to interest and delight. The Fasagh burn and

its ironworks, the Cladh nan Sasunnach, the curious Grudidh island, and

the beauties of the lower part of the Grudidh river, may be visited by

boat.

Chapter IX.

EXCURSIONS FROM TALLADALE.

The excursions from the Loch Maree Hotel at Talladale, so far as _terra

firma_ is concerned, are principally to points along either section of

the county road in the directions of Kenlochewe or Gairloch. These

sections are described in Part IV., chaps. iv. and v. I recommend

Grudidh bridge on the former, and the Kerry Falls on the latter, as

being pleasant limits for drives or walks. The excursion to Torridon

may, in imitation of Her Majesty, be made from the Talladale Hotel; and

places near Gairloch (see next chapter) may also be visited from this

hotel by those who prefer it to the larger and busier hotel at Gairloch.

[Illustration: SLIOCH FROM RUDHA AIRD AN ANAIL.]

For other walks from Talladale, a climb to the top of the lower hill

immediately behind the hotel, a ramble about the hamlet of Talladale,

and a stroll to the Victoria Falls, are recommended. Please spare the

oak fern in the woods near Talladale.

A longer walk is to take the county road going west so far as the turn

down to Slatadale farm. Take this turn, and when the shore of Loch Maree

is reached, close to the farmhouse, walk a mile, or two miles if you

like, in a north-westerly direction, along the old road which passes

behind Craig Tollie, in the direction of Poolewe. This ramble has

several fine points of view, and though after leaving Slatadale the road

or track is rather rough, the walk will not be too much for any one in

ordinary condition. This is a delightful excursion, and ought by all

means to be tried. It may be prolonged to Poolewe (_see map_).

But as at Kenlochewe, so at Talladale, Loch Maree itself supplies the

most charming expeditions. These may be taken either by the steamer or

by hired boats.

The steamer is timed so as to give those staying at the Loch Maree

Hotel, Talladale, the opportunity of visiting Tollie bay soon after

breakfast. A short stay is permitted in the lovely nook where Tollie

pier has been erected; and the return voyage to Talladale is

accomplished by noon. The visitor on returning from Tollie may, instead

of landing at Talladale, proceed at once to Ru Nohar, at the head of

Loch Maree, and after spending an hour there may return by the steamer

and be again landed at Talladale about or before three P.M.; or this

excursion may be made apart from and on a different day to the voyage to

Tollie and back. Either way luncheon should be taken to Ru Nohar, as

there is scarcely time to visit the Kenlochewe Hotel for that purpose.

This expedition is described in Part IV., chap. xiii.

The boating excursions from the Loch Maree Hotel, Talladale, are almost

endless. The shores of Loch Maree, within a distance of four or five

miles from the hotel, may be best surveyed and examined from a boat. It

is usually the angler who adopts this means of locomotion, but those who

are sketching or seeking for fresh points of view will find a boat

equally suitable.

Chapter X.

EXCURSIONS FROM GAIRLOCH.

The following drives may be taken from the Gairloch Hotel.

1. To any of the places on the road on the south side of the Gairloch

(see "Tables of distances"). Leaving the county road at the Kerry

bridge, an estate road strikes off to the right, and passes picturesque

natural birch woods, with a fine view of Bathais or Bus Bheinn over the

moorland to the left. In the narrow ravine as we approach Shieldaig is

an interesting "junction" of the Archæan gneiss and the Cambrian

conglomerate. It is described in Part III., chap. ix. At Shieldaig is

the pretty lodge leased by Mr J. Bateson, the Marquis of Bristol, and Mr

A. Hamond. The garden is brilliant with choice flowers, even as seen

from the road. Shieldaig is placed in a secluded little bay called Loch

Shieldaig, in which are two islands. The road ascends, and a mile

further the hamlet of Leac nan Saighead lies to the right. Close to the

shore at Leac nan Saighead may still be seen the spot where Donald Odhar

and his brother Iain Odhar concealed themselves and nearly four hundred

yards away is Fraoch Eilean, or "the heather island," where so many of

the M'Leods were slain by the arrows of those Macrae heroes (Part I.,

chap. xii.). Kenneth Fraser, who has probably as large a store of the

old traditions and legends of Gairloch as any other inhabitant, lives at

Leac nan Saighead. The road now strikes inland, and skirts Loch

Badachro, at the north-western corner of which the rocky Badachro river

leaves the loch for its short course to the sea. It is a remarkably

picturesque little river, with its rocky bed and banks, and its

overhanging trees. The fishing of the loch and river are let with

Shieldaig. Passing the farmhouse of Badachro we soon come in sight of

the village of Badachro, at the head of an almost landlocked bay shut in

by islands, one of them the considerable Eilean Horisdale or Thorisdale,

so called after the Norse god Thor. The Dry Island is joined to the

mainland at low tide. Here are two fish-curing stations, Badachro being

the centre of the important cod-fishery of Gairloch (Part II., chap.

ix.). After leaving Badachro the road again strikes inland, and passes a

loch, fully half a mile in length, called Loch Bad na h' Achlais.

Another mile brings us to the straggling village of Port-Henderson; and

again another mile over a rugged and boulder-bestrewed moor and we are

on the sandy hill overlooking the pretty bay of Opinan, where there is a

fine sandy beach. On the headland between Port-Henderson and Opinan is

the Uamh nam Freiceadain (mentioned in Part I., chaps. xii. and xxi.). A

short distance to the north of this place there is on the seashore a

large cave, which is worth a visit; it is called Uamh an Oir. It has a

fine entrance; it branches off right and left; the branch to the left

can be followed for about forty yards, that to the right is not so deep.

In the village of Opinan are the board school and volunteer armoury, the

latter an iron house. A little beyond the village, to the south, is the

new Free church, which is a mission church or chapel-of-ease in

connection with the parent Free church of Gairloch. It is a plain and

substantial building of recent erection. You cannot drive further than

South Erradale, but the road beyond is well worth exploration on foot.

Some of the inhabitants can point out the green spot in a hollow where

the two Macleod fratricides were slain and buried (page 26). The village

of South Erradale, with its stream called the Red River, is about a mile

beyond Opinan. Two of the dwelling-houses are built of turf. At the

upper end of the crofts are the Garradh Iaruinn, or "iron dyke," and

other evidences of bog iron (see page 87). About three miles further we

come to the farm of Point, or Red Point, where is also much bog iron.

Along all this route are magnificent views of the Torridon mountains, of

the island of Rona, and of the shores and mountains of Skye, which last

are much nearer and more plainly seen than from the Gairloch Hotel. The

rocky coast, with the primitive houses of the people, the rough

moorland, and the background of rugged mountains, give to this

expedition the charm of great wildness. Your charioteer can rest his

horses at Opinan or South Erradale whilst you walk further on.

2. To any of the places on the road running along the north side of the

Gairloch (see "Tables of distances"). This expedition may be done by

carriage as far as Melvaig. Leaving the Gairloch Hotel by the county

road going in the direction of Poolewe we turn off to the left at

Achtercairn. Passing the police-station and the board school on the

right, we are quickly on the sea-shore. Turn to the right, and cross the

curious narrow wooden bridge over the Achtercairn river or burn. To the

right, a little way from the road, is the manse of Gairloch (Part I.,

chap. xvi.), and then the fishing village of Strath or Smithstown is

entered, at the back of which there was formerly much bog iron. There

are two good merchants' shops, a boat-building yard, several shoemakers'

shops, and a meal-mill. The straggling village of Lonmor lies to the

right of and above the road after we pass Strath. Here plenty of bog

iron is still to be met with (Part I. chap. xx.). Except for the views

of the Gairloch, with Skye in the distance, the road is now

uninteresting for a mile or two. It bends to the north at Carn Dearg

House (Mr Corson), which is a peculiar building, close to the road, with

an enormous red-tiled roof. Below the house is a low rocky cliff, of a

reddish colour. About a mile inland are the Sitheanan Dubha, or

"fairies' hills."

A little beyond Carn Dearg is a fine sandy bay, and half a mile from the

shore is the island of Longa. It is more than a mile in length; in

ancient times it was a retreat of the Norse vikings (Part I., chap. i.).

From Carn Dearg the road strikes inland due north, passing the farm of

Little Sand on the left, and beyond that again around a large sandy bay

the village called Big Sand. Among the first sandhills you come to on

the farm of Little Sand may be seen some thin pans of bog iron (Part I.,

chap. xx.). More than a mile further on, close to the new board school,

the road bends again towards the west. The hill to the right is Meall na

Glaice Daraich (522 feet), and then further on, to the left between the

road and the sea, lies the township of North Erradale. The building near

the road, with its clump of trees, was formerly the schoolhouse; it is

now used as a place of worship. Among the crofts of North Erradale some

remains of bog iron pans are met with (Part I., chap. xx.). At the

shore, below the village, is a rocky cove enclosing a shingly beach,

where the people keep their boats.

A little to the north of this is a wonderful cave, known as Uamh an Oir.

It is said that ages ago twelve men, headed by a piper, marched into the

cave, the piper playing a lively strain; they were to search for the

precious metal; the party are believed to have wandered for miles among

the windings of the cavern; the music of the bagpipes was heard

underground as far away as the village of Strath, Gairloch, but neither

the piper nor any of the men ever came back; it is supposed "they forgot

to turn." Further details of this story are given by some, who connect

it with an old song well-known in the Argyleshire and other Highlands. I

have explored the cave, candle in hand, as far as to where the passage

narrows. Before the narrow part is reached there is a large chamber, in

which are traces of fires said to have been used for the illicit

distillation of whisky. The cavern appeared to expand again beyond the

narrow place. They say the cave may be explored a long way further, but

Mr Corson tells me he cannot discover any passage. The cave is well

worth a visit. Lights must be provided, and care be taken that return to

the outer world is not delayed by the tide, which for two hours before

and after high water prevents access to or from the cave unless a boat

be at hand.

From North Erradale a long stretch of road conducts the traveller

towards the north. The hamlets of Peterburn and Altgreshan are passed,

and at last the village of Melvaig is reached. It has a good school, and

is placed on the top of a rocky cliff, of no great height but so steep

that the shore below can only be safely reached by those who are

acquainted with the place and have a ladder. There is a cave on the

shore, which has been used for illicit distillation. There are

magnificent views of the Minch and its islands from Melvaig and near it.

It is well worth walking three miles north of Melvaig along the cliffs

to Rudha Reidh, or the Seann Rudha as it is often called by the natives.

About a mile from Melvaig any inhabitant will point out the "leac," or

large flat stone, from the shelter of which Fionnla Dubh nan Saighead

and his friend Chisholm let fly their arrows at the crew of Macleod's

birlinn (Part I., chap. xii.). Two or three picturesque burns are

passed, and the cliffs gradually rise to a height of 300 feet. Rudha

Reidh itself is a fine headland of reddish rocks, with a very

picturesque bay to the right, exhibiting on a sunny day remarkable

contrasts of colour, the sands being white, the rocks and cliffs black

and red, and the sea intense emerald green streaked with purple. Looking

over the cliffs some detached masses of rock are seen standing in the

sea. One square rock is called Stac Buidhe, or "the yellow stack," from

the brilliant orange-coloured lichens growing upon it. It is the

breeding-place of a few gulls and other sea birds. Twenty miles away due

west the Shiant Isles are visible. Return by the same route. Your horses

will require a rest at Melvaig.

These are the principal drives from the Gairloch Hotel, but several

shorter drives may be made with great advantage on the county road in

the direction of the pass leading to Slatadale on Loch Maree. I can

recommend the drives to Kerrysdale or to the Kerry Falls, or still

further to Loch Bad na Sgalaig and Feur Loch, or to the head of the

pass, whence a magnificent view of Loch Maree and its islands is

obtained.

It is a good drive also to Poolewe (Part IV., chap. vi.), and the drives

recommended in the next chapter to be made from Poolewe may be

conveniently taken from the Gairloch Hotel (Part IV., chap. xi.).

Undoubtedly the chief excursion to be made from the Gairloch Hotel is

that on Loch Maree. Carriages leave the Gairloch Hotel about ten a.m.,

and convey passengers to Tollie pier. The road to Tollie is described in

Part IV., chap. vi. Hence the voyage of the _Mabel_ is made (Part IV.,

chap. xiii.), and the party can return to the Gairloch Hotel by five

P.M. the same day.

There are very pleasant expeditions to be made by boat on the Gairloch,

not only by anglers but by those who wish to explore this fine bay and

its interesting shores and islands. You may land on the island called

Fraoch Eilean and see the graves of the Macleods, nearly three centuries

old (Part I., chap. xii.); or you may go into Loch Badachro and learn

all about its cod fishery; or you may venture as far as the rocky shores

of the wild island of Longa. The angler will get good sport in the

Gairloch, either trolling or with hand lines (Part IV., chap. xvi.).

Of walks there are many about Gairloch. A short but steep stroll,

affording splendid views, is that up the hill behind the hotel, called

the Kirk hill. Another short walk is to explore the villages of

Achtercairn and Strath. If the salmon fishing be going on, a visit to

the salmon station at Achtercairn may lead to the acquisition of

interesting information on the subject; or the sergeant-instructor of

the Gairloch volunteers will obligingly show the armoury he has charge

of. Other strolls are to Strath and Lonmor, or to the large sandy beach

below the Gairloch Established church. This latter may include the old

Gairloch churchyard, where so many of the Gairloch family of the

sixteenth and seventeenth centuries are buried, as well as many of the

bards and pipers, and where is also the tombstone of John Hay, discussed

in Part I., chap. xviii.; this walk may also include an examination of

the Cnoc a Croiche (Part II., chap. iv.), and of the Dun, and remains of

the vitrified fort (Part I., chaps. vi., vii., xi., and xxi.) at the

further end of the large sandy beach. Below the rocks, and on the face

of them, at the extreme east end of the sandy beach, is a remarkable

junction, where the Archæan gneiss and the Cambrian conglomerate or

breccia actually touch each other. This stroll may be prolonged to Port

na Heile, where the Gairloch pier is situated. Another and a longer walk

is to take the old road, to the left, at the south end of the bridge at

Ceann an t' sail, where the post-office is, and then follow this old

road until it joins the county road a little below Loch Bad na Sgalaig.

The return walk from Loch Bad na Sgalaig may be varied by taking the

present county road back to the Gairloch Hotel _viâ_ the Kerry Falls,

Kerrysdale and Charlestown. The old road is rough, and most visitors

will find it best to walk both to and from the Kerry Falls by the county

road, and I certainly advise this as preferable in every way. Other

rambles in the neighbourhood of the Gairloch Hotel may be made along the

sea-shore, in both directions, and on the nearer parts of the roads

already described. Anglers will enjoy the fishing on Loch Tollie.

Students of geology will find many places about Gairloch that are well

worth examination (see Part III., chap. ix.). Dr Geikie, in his

"Geological Sketches," writes as follows of the interesting geological

facts of the neighbourhood of the Gairloch Hotel. He says:--"Behind the

new hotel at Gairloch the ground rises steeply into a rocky bank of the

old gneiss. Along the base of these slopes the gneiss (which is here a

greenish schist) is wrapped round with a breccia of remarkable

coarseness and toughness. We noticed some blocks in it fully five feet

long. It is entirely made up of angular fragments of the schist

underneath, to which it adheres with great tenacity. Here again rounded

and smoothed domes of the older rock can be traced passing under the

breccia. On the coast, immediately to the south of the new Free church,

a series of instructive sections lays bare the worn undulating platform

of gneiss, with its overlying cover of coarse angular breccia."

More distant excursions to places described in connection with

Talladale, Kenlochewe, Poolewe, and Aultbea--either drives, walks, or

boating expeditions--may be taken from Gairloch, by utilising the Loch

Maree steamer, or the public mail-car, or by hiring; in fact all the

expeditions recommended to be made from any of those places may be

worked from the Gairloch Hotel.

Chapter XI.

EXCURSIONS FROM POOLEWE.

From Poolewe there are several interesting drives to be taken.

1. _To Places on the West Side of Loch Ewe._--From Poolewe Inn strike

off to the left along the sea-shore. The first house beyond the inn is

called Cliff House (Mr J. Mackenzie). Here was formerly the Gairloch

manse. A little further, to the left of the road, are the two large

holes, full of water (Part I., chap. xx.), which were borings made long

ago by Sir George Hay or some of the ironworkers, who projected a canal

to connect Loch Maree with the head of Loch Ewe. About half a mile from

Poolewe the road forms a sharp angle to the right. This place is called

Cuil an Scardain, a very descriptive name, for it means "the corner of

the screes." There were formerly houses here. Many spots have Gaelic

names indicating either that they were formerly inhabited, or that some

particular incidents celebrated by the "seannachaidh" occurred at the

places. The little water-mill of Boor for grinding meal is soon reached.

It is on the right of the road at the foot of a rocky burn, whose steep

descent to the left makes quite a picture as you look up it from the

road. The farm of Boor is now passed. The farmhouse (Mr John Mackenzie)

is on the hill side to the left. A little hazel scrub, containing a few

choice wildflowers, is on the same side of the road. It was in this

direction that the last of the chiefs of the Macbeaths fled from the two

Kintail men (Part I., chap. vi.). The name "Boor" is supposed by some to

have originated in this incident; others say the name means the

"roaring" of a stag. For some distance beyond there is nothing requiring

notice except Sgeir Bhoora (the rock of Boor), a small island in Loch

Ewe. The small headland jutting into Loch Ewe at the north end of Boor

farm is called on the Dutch map of 1662 Ruymakilvandrich, _i.e._ Rudha

Mac Ghille Aindreas, or "the point of the son of St Andrew's servant or

disciple;" the story of this place is now lost. The road skirts Loch

Ewe, which widens somewhat abruptly beyond the opposite point called

Fiaclachan, on the Inverewe side of the loch. The Isle of Ewe (with its

satellites Sgeir an Fharaig and Sgeir a Bhuic) comes into sight, and far

away to the north are gradually expanding views of range beyond range of

the mountains of Sutherland. Naast is the first village we pass. Its

Norse name is said to mean a castle or fort; a stronghold anciently

stood on the rocky headland forming the tiny bay below the township,

where a picturesque group of fishing boats is generally to be seen lying

on the beach. The headland is called Dun Naast (see pages 61 and 98).

Another mile brings us to the commencement of Inverasdale, a straggling

collection of hamlets spread over a tract a mile and a half in length

and half a mile or more in width. Inverasdale is entered by a narrow

bridge over the burn called the Great Burn (though it is but small),

which joins the salt water at a picturesque little creek often occupied

by herring boats out of work. On the other side of the creek is a tall

house, formerly the school. The large room in the building is now used

as a place of worship by the members of the Free Church. The section of

Inverasdale on the hillside to the left is called Brae; the portion

through which the road first passes is called Midtown, or Middletown, or

Ballymeon. Further on, the allotments, or rather crofts, cover a wide

space between the road and Loch Ewe, with thoroughly Highland dwellings

dotted here and there. This section is called Coast. The substantial

board school, with the teacher's house adjoining, is to the left of the

road nearly at the hill top. Near the school some pans of bog iron may

be noticed. Descending the hill the hamlet of Faidhir Mor, or Firemore,

which is the furthest north portion of Inverasdale, lies to the right.

On a promontory here are the signals indicating where the telegraph

cable begins its submarine course to Stornoway, the capital of the Lews.

The range of hills which having commenced with Craig Tollie on Loch

Maree was continued behind Poolewe by Cliff Hill, and has been prolonged

by a series of rocky eminences, varying from three to six hundred feet

in height, along the side of the road as far as Inverasdale, has now

receded some distance away to the left, or rather the road has deviated

considerably to the right. That range of hills runs forward in an almost

straight line until it reaches the Minch, where it is broken off and

forms the rocky headland called Rudha Reidh, or Seann Rudha, mentioned

in the last chapter. On the east side of the highest top of this range

is the place called Bac an Leth-choin, and a moorland ridge between the

road and the range of hills is the Druim cam Neill; both are mentioned

in the story of the death of Neil Macleod told in Part I., chap. xii.

Crossing the burn beyond Firemore the road skirts a beautiful sandy bay,

and shortly arrives at Meallan na Ghamhna, or Stirkhill. There are some

caves frequented by rock pigeon, on the sea margin of the hill. It was

here that a cave full of weapons, which (both cave and weapons) had been

concealed long ago by means of the "sian," were seen by some women

gathering lichens not many years since (Part II., chap. xiv.). Two miles

away, to the left, the woods of Loch a Druing may be noticed clothing a

hollow on the side of the range of hills beyond the Bac an Leth-choin.

It was in these woods that the fairy called the Gille Dubh lived (Part

II., chap. xiii.); and behind the top of the ridge is the Fedan Mor,

where Duncan MacRae hid the keg of gold (Part II., chap. xiv.). The road

is not passable for carriages beyond Stirkhill, but a walk forward to

Cove is strongly recommended. The primitive out-of-the-world character

of the place and its inhabitants, the fine cave, the natural arch (_see

illustration_), and the views from and general features of the coast,

will well repay the pedestrian who spends an hour in the following

stroll. The village of Cove begins very soon after you leave your

carriage. The road is a cart road, until, on the left, a house is

reached with a wing (formerly used as a school) at right angles to its

main portion. Open the door of this wing and you see a curious room,

which is a place of worship with its little pulpit, and is also a

store-house of all manner of fishing implements and dresses. The house

is the home of the catechist attached to the Aultbea and Poolewe Free

churches. The picturesque cove or harbour is to the right of the path,

and when the many coloured boats are laid up on its shore it forms a

charming picture. Go forward by the narrowing path, and ask some of the

civil inhabitants to show you the cave where they worship. It is a

romantic place with its old desk, and stones and pieces of wood arranged

for seats, the nest of a mavis or thrush on a ledge of rock, and the

narrow entrance veiled by a tangle of woodbine and eglantine. The sea

can almost wash into this cave. A few yards from it is a hole which

opens into another and smaller cave; there is a larger cave in the rocky

headland nearer the harbour. A brief further stroll on the top of the

low cliff reveals the curious detached rock standing out from the shore

with its natural arch (_see illustration_), resembling similar arches at

Torquay, Freshwater (Isle of Wight), and other places. The return from

Cove is by the same route, or a boat may be hired to Poolewe.

[Illustration: NATURAL ARCH, COVE--LOW TIDE.]

2. _Excursion to Fionn Loch._--This excursion (so far as beyond Inveran)

can only be made by special permission of Mr O. H. Mackenzie of

Inverewe, and that certainly cannot be obtained after July. Cross the

bridge at Poolewe and turn to the right. The road follows the course of

the River Ewe pretty closely. There is a picturesque little crag on the

left called Craig an Fhithich, or "the raven's crag." The flat peat bog

a little further on is called the "Shore." Between the road and the

river, on the right, is the remains of the iron furnace called the Red

Smiddy (Part I., chap. xx.). The next hill we pass, on the left, is

called Craig Bhan. It was on this and other hills to the left and

further on that Donald Maclean saw the visions of soldiers in red

uniforms described in Part II., chap. xv. Observe the beautiful peeps of

the river Ewe and Loch Maree, and the wooded hills often called the

Trossachs of Loch Maree. The road soon enters the Inveran woods, and

after passing the Inveran farmhouse, where there is a fine view of the

lower end of Loch Maree, arrives at a wooden bridge over the Inveran

river or burn, the outlet from Loch Kernsary. To this point the road has

been on the property of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, but now enters that of Mr

Osgood H. Mackenzie. The gate at this bridge is kept locked. A small

loch (Loch an Doire Garbh), with abundant water lilies, is soon passed

on the right, and then Loch Kernsary is reached, a fine sheet of water

about a mile long. There is an artificial island, or crannog, with a

grove of trees on it, now nearly destroyed by the rooks that nest here.

Turning to the right the farm of Kernsary, with its sheltered fields and

smiling woods, is reached. The small river is spanned by a frail

foot-bridge, below which is the ford for carts and carriages. The

cottage and byre on the hillside to the left are the place called Innis

a Bhaird. A house was built here in the first half of the eighteenth

century by the bard named Cross, who was called "Bard Sasunnach" (Part

I., chap. xiv.). From Kernsary the almost Alpine road constructed by Mr

O. H. Mackenzie about 1875 gradually ascends to a height of 600 feet

above the sea level. Both at Kernsary and for a mile further, near the

road, are the remains of cottages or shieling bothies. The patches which

were formerly cultivated are now mostly overgrown with bracken. The

varied colouring of the landscape, especially to the right of the road,

is wonderfully fine at any time of the year. At a distance of about six

miles from Poolewe the road terminates at Fionn Loch, which is admirably

described by Mr Jolly in chapter xiv. of this Part. This fine loch is

550 feet above the sea level, and contains some picturesque little

islands, mostly wooded. Some of them are mentioned in Part III., chap.

vi. The chief attraction of Fionn Loch consists in the amphitheatre of

mountains round the head of the loch. Beinn Lair, broken off towards the

north-east in a series of remarkable precipices, is the central object

(_see illustration, page 54_); whilst the Maighdean to the east, and

Meall Mheannidh to the west, form noble guards on those flanks. The

horns of the crescent are completed by Beinn a Chaisgean on the east of

Fionn Loch and Beinn Aridh Charr on the west, the latter presenting a

series of magnificent escarpments. The south end of Beinn a Chaisgean

has two fine spurs, Scuir a Laocainn and Scuir na Feart. Below Beinn

Lair, and slightly to the east, are the lower eminences of Craig an Dubh

Loch (a spur of Beinn Tarsuinn Chaol), streaked by veins of pegmatite,

showing white even at some miles distance. Return to Poolewe by the same

route. This excursion may be made also from the Gairloch Hotel, but in

any case special permission must be obtained for it beforehand.

Other excursions by road from Poolewe Inn may be made in either

direction towards Gairloch or Aultbea, and the excursions from Aultbea

described in the next chapter may be accomplished from Poolewe.

Of water expeditions there are the voyage on Loch Maree (Part. IV.,

chap. xiii.), which can readily be done from Poolewe Inn, and boating

expeditions on Loch Ewe either for purposes of angling or exploration.

Of walks and strolls there are many. Rambles on the west shore of Loch

Ewe, or about the township of Londubh, or to Inveran farm and bridge, or

to the splendid points of view of Loch Maree above Tollie, are all

replete with interest. The old track continued from Tollie pier along

the south-west side of Loch Maree is well worth following for a mile or

more. Expeditions for angling purposes to any lochs which are open to

those staying at Poolewe Inn furnish additional walks. There is a walk

from Poolewe Inn to Craig Bhan which I particularly recommend. Cross

Poolewe bridge; turn to the right, and follow the Inveran road (as if

you were going to Fionn Loch). It is about a mile to the first small

detached strip of natural birch wood just opposite the house (on the

other side of the river) furthest away from Poolewe. Craig Bhan is the

low hill that rises close above the road on the side you are on. Near

the top, about one hundred and fifty yards from the road, you will find

on the one hand a magnificent view of Loch Maree, and in the other

direction of Loch Ewe. I know no finer point of view in the district.

One of the brochs, or Pictish round houses (Part I., chap. xxi.), is to

be seen on Craig Bhan.

Chapter XII.

EXCURSIONS FROM AULTBEA.

Three drives are recommended to be taken from Aultbea.

1. _To Mellon Charles._--After leaving Aultbea Inn the road crosses the

burn, which gives its name to the place, and after passing the

post-office, and further on the Free church and its manse, reaches Aird

House, on the promontory which forms the bay and is called Aird Point.

The tiny hamlet below Aird is called Cuilchonich. Further on the village

of Buaile na luib is reached, with its board school. The road now

becomes rough, and the rest of the journey may perhaps be better

accomplished on foot. The first village after leaving Buaile na luib is

called Ormiscaig, and then the township of Mellon Charles is entered,

with its sandy beach. It is an interesting Highland place, and, like

Cove on the opposite side of Loch Ewe, gives one the idea of being near

the end of the world. There are fairy stories connected with this

neighbourhood (see Part II., chap. xiii.). Above the village rises Craig

an Fhithich Mhor, or "the great raven's crag," 395 feet in height. The

rocky coast on either side of Mellon Charles contains some fine caves

inhabited by blue-rock pigeons. This excursion may perhaps be better

made on foot.

2. _To Mellon Udrigil._--Take the road leading north-east from Aultbea.

On the left is Tighnafaolinn, a straggling township on the hillside. On

the right, after crossing the burn, is the hamlet of Badfearn. The road

ascends for about a mile and a half. On both sides are rough moorland,

with moraines of ancient glaciers. Soon after passing the brow of the

hill the road descends to Laide House, a small but neat dwelling, with a

few trees about it, noticeable more for their present rarity in this

part of the country than for any merits of their own. The straggling

village of Laide, or more fully the Laide of Udrigil, is now entered.

The first building, on the left, was used as a place of worship some few

years ago, but has been lately unroofed. A little distance from the

road, to the right, is the board school. At the merchant's shop turn to

the left, leaving the ruin of the ancient chapel to the right below. The

road is rather rough, but quite passable. For about a mile it runs along

the top of low cliffs; the picturesque salmon station of Mr Hogarth, of

Aberdeen, is seen on a small promontory. The curious red cliffs (the

only trias hereabouts, Part III., chap. ix.), the picturesque ridges of

rock jutting into the sea, and the salmon station itself, are well worth

an exploration on foot. The road descends as it passes round the base of

the hill called Meallan Udrigil (298 feet), and then ascends, passing

Udrigil House, a little way above which is the hamlet of Achagarve. The

road now strikes somewhat inland, behind the hill called Meall nam

Meallan (478 feet). On the left is the Loch of the Beast, the haunt of

the celebrated water-kelpie (Part II., chap. xiii.). A mile further,

through a narrow pass, we enter the little village of Mellon Udrigil,

with its board school, which, though small, is sufficient for the place.

An examination of the village, and a stroll on the sands, will be found

interesting. Meall nam Meallan forms a series of fine cliffs along the

coast to the south of Mellon Udrigil. During the whole of the drive from

Laide there have been magnificent views of the hills and islands around

and within the bay of Gruinard. On a fine day, at any time of the year,

these views are enchanting. It was from Mellon Udrigil that the vision

of the great fleet, with boats manned by red-jackets, was seen (Part

II., chap. xv.). The bay of Gruinard, or Loch Gruinard, is described in

a separate chapter by Mr Jolly.

[Illustration: CURIOUS ROCKS, SAND OF UDRIGIL.]

3. _To Second Coast and intermediate places._--The road to Laide is the

same as in the last drive, but instead of turning off to the left at the

merchant's, keep straight on in an easterly direction. The scenery and

surroundings are described in Mr Jolly's chapter on Loch Gruinard (see

page 355). The ruined church or chapel of Sand (Part I., chap. xxi.),

standing in a crowded graveyard, is well seen to the left, and is worth

a visit. In my memory there were the remains of a mullion and tracery in

the little window in the eastern gable. This little church, called the

chapel of Sand, is said to have been one of the earliest Christian

churches on the west coast (_see illustration, page 70_). The straggling

collection of cottages called Sand adjoins Laide; here, as the name

implies, there is a fine stretch of sandy beach, beyond which a

wonderfully diversified rocky shore extends. A little beyond Sand, in a

cove on the sea-shore close below the road, and accessible from it by a

winding footpath, are two caves and some curious detached rocks. One

rock is a sort of rugged pyramid, and another resembles a sphinx (_see

illustration_). This latter is particularly remarkable, and is overgrown

with beautiful lichens. The larger cave is used for public worship, and

the small one as a dwelling. The first hamlet or village after Sand is

called First Coast, and the other, further on, is Second Coast. The

Gaelic name of the former is "Bad an t' Sluig," or "the clump of the

gullet;" and of the latter, "An t' Eirthire Donn," or "the brown side or

edge." The word "eirthire" is here spelt according to the local manner;

it is in other parts of the Highlands spelt "oirthire," which is said to

be more correct.

The villages of First and Second Coast differ from most of those in the

parish of Gairloch in having the habitations all together, instead of

being scattered in their respective crofts or allotments, as is the

usual arrangement. This is due to the "run-rig" system of cultivation

having been retained here to a comparatively recent date (Part II.,

chap. viii.).

Second Coast is bounded by a considerable burn, which joins the sea in

the bay below the village, sometimes called Mill bay, because of the

mill which formerly stood at the foot of the burn. Proceeding by a long

ascent the summit of Cadha Beag is at last attained, with a most lovely

view of the horseshoe bay of Fisherfield. At the foot of the steep road

down Cadha Beag is a bridge over the Little Gruinard river, which flows

out of Fionn Loch, and is the northern boundary of the parish of

Gairloch. Here, on the Gairloch side of the river, is a black bothy,

which is a licensed house, kept by one William Gunn, the humorous father

of a numerous family. The farm, with arable land on both sides of the

river, is called Little Gruinard.

The continuation of this drive to the Meikle Gruinard river is well

worth taking; a picturesque burn is crossed half-way between the two

rivers, and the horses may perhaps be baited at the Fisherfield

farmhouse. This road may be used as an exit from Gairloch (Part IV.,

chap. ii.).

The return journey to Aultbea is by the same route. All the

comparatively low ground of the Greenstone Point is called the "Laigh of

Loch Broom," _i.e._ low ground of Loch Broom. It is curious that this

part of Gairloch parish should be spoken of as if it were part of the

adjoining barony of Loch Broom. In former days Gairloch and Loch Broom

were considered to form one district, and this may have originated the

confusion perpetuated in this name. "Laigh" is a Scotch, not a Gaelic,

word.

Excursions by water from Aultbea are mostly what can be made by boat on

Loch Ewe, and may be either for the purpose of sea-fishing, which is

very good, or with the object of exploring the rocky headlands and

numerous caves at the north end of Isle Ewe or on the mainland beyond

Mellon Charles. There is a fine sandy bay, with an out-of-the-world

little village called Slaggan, where the great bard of Slaggan (Part

II., chap. xxi.) had his abode, and this may be made the subject of a

boating excursion. In fine weather a sail on the wide bay of Gruinard

will reveal magnificent views of the mountainous coast round its shores,

and further north and east.

For walks I can recommend either shore of the Greenstone Point. Mr

Forbes, at the inn, will suggest pedestrian rambles, as well as make

arrangements for boats on sea and on fresh-water lochs.

Chapter XIII.

EXCURSION BY STEAMER ON LOCH MAREE.

The steamer on Loch Maree affords a means of viewing the beauties of

this queen of Highland lochs in a thorough and luxurious way.

The route from the Gairloch Hotel past Loch Tollie to the junction with

the Tollie road is described in chap. vi. of this Part. Proceeding down

the estate road past Tollie farm, the tourist will be delighted with the

views of Loch Maree and Beinn Aridh Charr, and will soon arrive at

Tollie pier in the north-western corner of the loch, where trees and

rocks mingle in lovely confusion beneath rugged grey cliffs.

[Illustration: LOCH MAREE FROM ARDLAIR.]

Loch Maree is a magnificent sheet of water, rather over twelve miles in

length. Pennant in his "Tour" (Appendix B) says it is eighteen miles

long, and this error has been repeated in the New Statistical Account

(Appendix E), and in most of the guide-books. The Old Statistical

Account (Appendix C) gave the correct length, which can now be attested

by any one who will take the trouble to refer to the Ordnance Survey.

Pennant described the scenery of the loch as "making a most beautiful

appearance." Dr Arthur Mitchell, adopting the opinion expressed in

Anderson's excellent guide, characterises the scenery as "utterly savage

and terrific," though he admits that the islands make the loch "an

exquisite picture of calm beauty."

Thus doctors disagree! Without claiming to have anything new to say on

the question, I must express the opinion, which I share with many

others, that the scenery of Loch Maree is not surpassed in the United

Kingdom for both wild and gentle beauty.

Perhaps its leading characteristic is the frequent contrasts it exhibits

between barren, often precipitous, rocks and mountains on the one hand,

and calm lochs, smiling woods, or richly-coloured moors on the other.

The unconscious, or unanalysed, impressions of these contrasts produce

the most pleasing effects on the spectator's mind and feelings.

The Rev. Mr Small refers to the charms of contrast, exemplified in the

scenery of Loch Maree, thus:--

"In rugged grandeur by the placid lake,

Rise the bold mountain cliffs, sublimely rude;

A pleasing contrast, each with each, they make,

And when in such harmonious union viewed,

Each with more powerful charms appears imbued.

Even thus it is, methinks, with mingling hearts,

Though different far in nature and in mood,

A blessed influence each to each imparts,

Which softens and subdues, yet weakens not, nor thwarts."

The derivation of the name Maree from St Maelrubha is discussed and

conclusively established by Dr Mitchell (Part II., chap. xi.). Other

references to the loch incidentally occur in several parts of this book.

At Tollie pier (erected 1883) we step on board the little steamer, and

commence the tour of the loch. It will be more convenient to describe

the left or north-east shore on our way up the loch, and the other side

on the return voyage. As the steamer leaves Tollie pier the Fox Point

(Gallicé, Rudha mhadaidh ruaidh) is seen on the left. It is a low and

small promontory, terminating in grey-white rocks, deriving its name

from some story of a fox closely pursued by dogs taking to the water

here, or from some fox of unusual size being killed at the place.

Observe the extreme clearness of the water of Loch Maree. Owing to the

rocky and gravelly nature of the bed and shores of the loch, its waters

never acquire that dark peaty tinge which characterises the water of

Loch Katrine. The Fox Point has long been the resort of persons

suffering from various ailments, who have come to drink of the

marvellously pure water of the loch, which is, or was, believed to

possess valuable health-restoring qualities (Part II., chap. xiii.). The

traveller casually tasting Loch Maree water, especially in the summer

when it is slightly warmed by the sun, may be disappointed with its

flavour, or rather want of flavour, and may think it lacking in

freshness. Remember that the fresh sparkle of much spring water, so

agreeable to the palate, is due to a certain amount of mineral or other

impurity.

Behind, or to the north of, the Fox Point the River Ewe leaves Loch

Maree. Here are Inveran House and Inveran farm (Miss Maclennan),

situated on the estate of Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch,

to whom both sides of the River Ewe and, as we shall see, most of the

shores of Loch Maree belong, as well as all its islands and the sole

right to the salmon and sea-trout fishings, not only of the loch but

also of the river and contiguous sea.

This end of Loch Maree has its Ossianic legend (Part I., chap. i.). "The

sweetheart's stepping-stones" are said to have been placed in their

present position in the water near the Fox Point by Fingal himself; they

render the navigation difficult to those ignorant of their localities.

[Illustration: CLACH A MHAIL, ARDLAIR.]

From the Fox Point to a burn a mile further up, the estate of Mr Osgood

H. Mackenzie abuts on the loch; then commences the property of Mrs Liot

Bankes. The scrubby wood on the hill side sloping to the loch is called

An Fhridh dhorch, or "the dark forest." The sheep have been removed from

this ground, so the wood here will now have a chance of growing. As the

steamer emerges from the comparatively narrow part of Loch Maree the new

mansion-house of Ardlair (Mrs Liot Bankes) comes in view, situated in

natural pleasure grounds of peculiar beauty. The charms of this place,

embracing sloping lawns, shady glades, dense thickets, graceful trees,

masses of grey rock, and a shingly beach, edged by a belt of feathery

wood, the whole reposing at the foot of magnificent precipices, seem to

constitute a sort of garden of the Hesperides, and fully justify the

title bestowed on the spot by a Scotch poet, who truly called it "the

sweet Ardlair." The name Ardlair signifies "the mare's height." It is

derived from a stone, rather like a horse's head, which stands in the

loch a few yards to the south of the pier below the house.

A little past the cultivated land, to the east of the house of Ardlair,

is the "Cave of the king's son" (Part I., chap. iv.); near it is the

stone still called the "Minister's stone" (_see illustration, page 81_),

where tradition has it that the Rev. Farquhar MacRae (Appendix A) used

to preach.

[Illustration: UAMH A MHAIL, ARDLAIR.]

Beyond the woods of Ardlair may be seen a large boulder on the beach,

called Clach a Mhail, or "the stone of rent or tribute" (_see

illustration_), at which the proprietor of the Letterewe estate used to

gather his rents, and where a whisky market used to be held. A small

cave a little above, called Uamh a Mhail (_see illustration_), was used

by the proprietor if the weather were too stormy for his business to be

conducted at the stone. Further on is a long bluish-looking point called

Rudha Chailleach, or "the old woman's (or witch's) point," where it is

supposed women accused of witchcraft used to be ducked, or more probably

drowned.

On the side of Beinn Aridh Charr, about half way up above Rudha

Chailleach, is a conspicuous mass of quartz, called the "White horse."

Its shape justifies the name.

Our notes on the islands, among which the steamer passes when opposite

Rudha Chailleach, shall be deferred until the return journey.

An enormous rock, or rather lump of rocks, on the southern shoulder of

Beinn Aridh Charr rises (just beyond Rudha Chailleach) to the height of

1000 feet. It consists of a number of large rounded masses of stone

descending sheer into the waters of the loch, and is called Craig

Thairbh, or the "Bull Rock," from a detached stone in the water at the

base of the rock supposed to resemble in shape a bull. After passing the

Bull Rock the shores of the loch are more or less wooded for a distance

of some four or five miles.

On a wooded knoll opposite Isle Maree is an artificial cave, called Uamh

an Oir, or "the cave of gold," about forty yards from the margin of the

loch. It is an old excavation, made by searchers for the precious metal,

which is said to have been found there but in unremunerative quantity.

Dr Cochran-Patrick, in his "Early Records relating to Mining in

Scotland," gives many interesting facts on the subject of gold mining.

Gilbert de Moravia is said to have discovered gold at Durness in

Sutherland in 1245. The Scottish Parliament granted to the Crown in 1424

all the gold mines in Scotland. Gold mines were commenced on Crawford

Moor during the reign of James IV., about 1511. During the minority of

James VI. Cornelius de Vois, a Dutchman, obtained in 1567 a license from

the Regent Murray to work gold and silver for nineteen years in any part

of Scotland. Cornelius de Vois had several partners who held shares in

the adventure. The gold is said to have been found by them principally

in the glens and valleys. This "cave of gold" may have been made by

them. Many later attempts were made to find gold as well as silver.

There is nothing whatever to shew when the search which resulted in the

formation of the "cave of gold" took place. According to the New

Statistical Account (Appendix E), this excavation was made by some one

seeking a vein of silver, and several old people now living say the

same, but the name "cave of gold" seems to connect it with the more

precious metal.

A rounded mountain to the east of Beinn Aridh Charr, called Meall

Mheannidh, is seen above the craggy eminences of Letterewe; and just

beyond it Beinn Lair rises in a flattish undulating form, with one small

point shewing to the summit. This hill is as it were broken off towards

the north in a series of remarkably fine precipices, not discernible

from this side (_see illustration, page 54_). At the back of Beinn Lair

are the Claonadh, or "slopes," mentioned in the story of the "Gillie

Buidhe" (Part I., chap. xiv.).

The woods of Letterewe begin about half way up the loch. At the

commencement of the policies may be noticed the mouth of a canal, and,

on the hillside above, the track of a tramway in connection with it.

These were constructed by the late proprietor for the purpose of

bringing limestone from an extensive and picturesque quarry further up.

The quarry is now disused.

To the east of the tramway track notice a fine cascade. Letterewe House

(Mr C. Perkins) is an old mansion of the Mackenzies of Letterewe, and is

now the property of Mrs Liot Bankes, whose estate extends from the burn

(already mentioned) between the Fox Point and Ardlair up to another burn

on the west side of Slioch.

A mile beyond Letterewe House the Furnace burn falls into Loch Maree.

The hamlet of Furnace takes its name from the iron-smelting furnace

(Part I., chap. xx.) established here by Sir George Hay in or about

1607.

The hamlets or places from Letterewe to the head of Loch Maree are in

the following order:--Furnace, Innis (or Inch) Ghlas, Coppachy,

Regoilachy, and Smiorsair. Above them rises the lordly height of

Slioch,--_not Beinn_ Slioch, if you please,--whose name signifies a

spear-head; the conical shape of the mountain, as seen from Talladale

and Slatadale, resembles the form of the rather thick head of an ancient

spear or lance, and still more closely that of an ancient flint

arrow-head.

Slioch loses this conical form as the steamer approaches the mountain;

it now assumes the appearance of a vast wall, furrowed and grooved by

the natural agencies of ten thousand generations. The rills and burns

which trickle down its steep sides become in wet weather foaming

cataracts. The upper part of the mountain is fluted by deep weather-worn

channels, thus forming the range of grand summits that nobly cap this

chief feature of Loch Maree. Whilst Beinn Aridh Charr is remarkable for

its graceful contour, Slioch stands pre-eminent for its barren wildness

and grandeur.

At the foot of the Fasagh burn, which flows into Loch Maree to the east

of Slioch, are, on the one side (at some little distance), the old

burial-ground called the Cladh nan Sasunnach, or "English graveyard"

(Part I., chap. xviii.); and, on the other (the east side of the burn),

the remains of ancient ironworks, where large quantities of slag may

still be seen (Part I., chap. xx.).

From the head of the loch, which the steamer is now nearing, stretches

away to the south-east the partly cultivated strath of Kenlochewe, with

the farm of Tagan in the foreground. On the left of the strath, towards

the north-east, is a spur of Beinn a Mhuinidh, called the Bonaid Donn,

with its waterfall, which, during or immediately after heavy rains, is a

fine cascade of the mare's-tail type (Part III., chap. i.). On the

south-west side of the strath is Meall a Ghuibhais; and exactly below

it, near the head of the loch, the steamer pulls up at the pier on a

shingly beach--a "silver strand"--which forms the promontory generally

known as Ru Nohar, or "the giant's point." The full spelling of the

Gaelic name is "Rudha an Fhomhair" (see "Glossary"). The name of the

giant after whom this point is called is not recorded. Can he and his

fellows have been buried in the large graves in the Cladh nan Sasunnach?

After a ramble on shore, where many a pleasant nook amid woods and rocks

may be found by the roadside suitable for a brief pic-nic (including the

consumption of the lunch which the thoughtful voyageur will have

provided before starting), we again embark on the steamer for

THE RETURN VOYAGE.

Our notes will now describe the right or south-west side of the loch,

and also the islands which add so much to the beauty and romance of Loch

Maree.

Observe, as the _Mabel_ gets under way, the slopes and undercliffs of

Meall a Ghuibhais, clothed with extremely beautiful woods. They consist

for the most part of birch and pine raised by nature, and therefore more

picturesque than if planted by man. The oak, the ash, the rowan, the

sallow, the hazel, and the quivering aspen, are mingled with the firs

and birches, and are all indigenous. Black game and roe-deer abound in

these woods, and may often be observed near the margin of the loch.

Above the woods are rocky heights; in one place a yellow scar is

noticeable, where a landslip occurred many years ago, illustrating the

effect of water and frost in disintegrating the hardest rocks.

The woods of Glas Leitire, as this fragment of the old forest is named,

extend along some two miles of our return route. As they become thinner,

individual trees display their characteristic shapes more freely (see

Her Majesty Queen Victoria's remark about these trees quoted in Part

IV., chap. iv.).

The county road towards Gairloch, also described in that chapter, runs

along the side of the loch we are now noticing. It may be seen here and

there winding through the trees, or surmounting some rocky point on the

edge of the loch.

After passing the Glas Leitire woods, Glen Grudidh opens out; the

transition from the lovely woods to this wild lonely glen is indeed a

transformation scene! The view looking up Glen Grudidh is one of the

finest in the country; the herbage assumes, particularly in autumn, a

ruddy golden hue, contrasting wonderfully with the blue-grey boulders

scattered upon it, and the steep blue peak of Ruadh Stac--the highest

summit in Gairloch parish--and of Liathgach which form the background.

Further on, at a distance of five miles from the head of the loch, is

Grudidh Island (Eilean Grudidh), in a small bay renowned for its

sea-trout fishing, and where now and then a salmon is hooked. This

interesting little island (Part I., chap, xxi.) was originally a

stronghold of the MacBeaths, and was afterwards held by the Macleods

(Part I., chap. xii.).

Rounding a promontory, called Aird na h' Eigheamh, or "the calling

point," which considerably narrows the loch, we come in sight of the

main body of the islands. They are said to be twenty-four in number, but

no one can accurately number them. When the loch is high from recent

rains many parts become detached from the larger islands, which when it

lowers again are reunited. The principal islands are Isle Maree, Eilean

Suainne ("the everlasting island"), Eilean Dubh na Sroine ("the black

isle of the nose or promontory"), Garbh Eilean ("the rough isle"), and

Eilean Ruaridh Mor ("the big island of Rory"), with its pendicle Eilean

Ruaridh Beag. Another considerable island is called "the planted

island." These islands are part of the Gairloch estate of Sir Kenneth

Mackenzie; they are the resort of red deer, which swim across from the

mainland; and of black game, sea-gulls, and wild fowl, as well as

occasionally of roe-deer. In a hard winter wild swans repair to Loch

Maree (which is never frozen over), and frequent the islands. A specimen

may be seen in the Loch Maree Hotel. Wild geese (the grey lag goose),

wild ducks, mergansers, goosanders, black-throated divers, and countless

sea-gulls, visit the islands during May and the following months for the

purpose of nesting and rearing their young. The sea-gulls are of four

kinds, viz., the great black-backed gull (two or three pairs), the

lesser black-backed gull (in great numbers), the herring gull (very

few), and the common or winter gull (a few pairs).

The islands are for the most part beautifully wooded,--some of the trees

being the remains of the ancient forest, which their insular position

protected from the axe of the ironworkers; others self-sown in recent

years; and others again planted by the lairds of Gairloch, to whom all

the islands have for four centuries belonged. It is pleasant to notice

young trees springing up along the north-east shore of the loch, no

doubt the result of seed blown from the islands.

Isle Maree is the best known and most interesting of the islands (Part

I., chap. ii.; and Part II., chaps. xi. and xii.).

The following verses by Mr James G. Whittier, the American poet, though

not quite exact in descriptive details, refer so touchingly to the holy

well of Isle Maree (see page 151 _et seq._) that I must quote them

here:--

"Calm on the breast of Loch Maree

A little isle reposes;

A shadow woven of the oak

And willow o'er it closes.

Within a Druid's mound is seen,

Set round with stony warders,

A fountain, gushing through the turf,

Flows o'er its grassy borders.

And whoso bathes therein his brow,

With care or madness burning,

Feels once again his healthful thought

And sense of peace returning.

O restless heart and fevered brain,

Unquiet and unstable,

That holy well of Loch Maree

Is more than idle fable!

Life's changes vex, its discords stun,

Its glaring sunshine blindeth,

And blest is he who on his way

That fount of healing findeth!

The shadows of a humbled will

And contrite heart are o'er it;

Go read its legend--'Trust in God'--

On Faith's white stones before it."

Eilean Suainne is the largest of the islands. It is nearly a mile long.

Within it is a small loch, with two small islands, on one of which is a

large fir tree. Beneath this tree the fairies used to assemble (Part

II., chap. xiii.), and in its branches an osprey used to build its nest.

Another osprey built on a headland of this island (Part III., chap.

vi.). There are traces of the remains of the residence of Alastair

Breac, laird of Gairloch, and of some of the older chiefs of the

Mackenzies, on this island, as well as of bothies where illicit

distillation used to be carried on.