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[Illustration: FLOWERDALE HOUSE, GAIRLOCH,
WEST COAST RESIDENCE OF THE BARONETS OF GAIRLOCH.]
GAIRLOCH
IN NORTH-WEST ROSS-SHIRE
ITS RECORDS, TRADITIONS, INHABITANTS, AND NATURAL HISTORY
WITH A
GUIDE TO GAIRLOCH AND LOCH MAREE
AND A MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS
By JOHN H. DIXON, F.S.A. Scot.
INCLUDING CHAPTERS BY
_WILLIAM JOLLY, F.G.S., F.R.S.E.; THE REV. JOHN McMURTRIE, M.A.;
AND PROFESSOR W. IVISON MACADAM, F.C.S., F.I.C., M.M.S., &c.,
EDINBURGH_
EDINBURGH
CO-OPERATIVE PRINTING COMPANY LIMITED
1886
[_Entered at Stationers' Hall._]
EDINBURGH
CO-OPERATIVE PRINTING COMPANY LIMITED,
BRISTO PLACE.
TO
_SIR KENNETH S. MACKENZIE_,
SIXTH BARONET AND THIRTEENTH LAIRD OF GAIRLOCH,
AND
HER MAJESTY'S LIEUTENANT OF ROSS-SHIRE,
Is Dedicated
THIS ACCOUNT OF THE ROMANTIC HIGHLAND PARISH
WITH WHICH, DURING FOUR CENTURIES,
HE AND HIS ANCESTORS HAVE BEEN SO INTIMATELY ASSOCIATED.
PREFACE.
The preparation of the following account of Gairloch has been prompted
by regard--almost affection--for this beautiful and interesting Highland
parish. It is published in the hope that it may not only assist the
tourist, but also be found to constitute a volume worthy of a nook in
the great library of local history. Here and there some few general
remarks on the subjects dealt with have necessarily been introduced by
way of explanation or illustration, but in the main this book relates
solely to Gairloch. I have tried to make short chapters, and to dispense
with footnotes.
Without much assistance the work could not have been satisfactorily
completed. The necessary help has been given with the greatest freedom
and kindness. Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, has himself
furnished much valuable and accurate information, and Lady Mackenzie of
Gairloch has kindly assisted. From Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie of Inverewe,
youngest son of the late Sir Francis Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, I
have received a large amount of personal aid. Much of the information
about the Mackenzies has been culled from the works of Mr Alexander
Mackenzie (a native of Gairloch) with his consent. He is the able author
of a copious history of the Mackenzies and other important books, and
the editor of the _Celtic Magazine_, from which last the memoir of John
Mackenzie of the "Beauties" and several of the traditions have been
mainly taken. From the MS. "Odd and End Stories" of Dr Mackenzie,
Eileanach, only surviving son of Sir Hector Mackenzie, Bart., eleventh
laird of Gairloch, numerous quotations will be found. These extracts are
published with the consent of Dr Mackenzie, as well as of Mr O. H.
Mackenzie to whom he has given his MS. volumes. With one exception,
wherever Dr Mackenzie is quoted the extract is taken from his "Odd and
End Stories." The Dowager Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch has been so good as
to prepare a short statement, from which extracts are made. Dr Arthur
Mitchell, C.B., Senior Commissioner in Lunacy for Scotland, has
permitted the use of his paper on the Isle Maree superstitions. Mr Jolly
has contributed three valuable chapters, and the Rev. J. M'Murtrie and
Professor W. Ivison Macadam have each given a chapter. To Mr William
Mackay of Craigmonie, Inverness, I am indebted for full notes on
ecclesiastical matters, and for extracts from the old records of the
Presbytery of Dingwall. The Rev. Alexander Matheson, minister of
Glenshiel, has supplied extracts from the records of the Presbytery of
Lochcarron. I have to thank Messrs Maclachlan & Stewart, of Edinburgh,
who in 1882 brought out a sumptuous edition of the "Beauties of Gaelic
Poetry," by the late John Mackenzie, a Gairloch man, for permission to
use the accounts of John Mackay (the blind piper), William Ross, William
Mackenzie, and Malcolm Maclean, contained in the "Beauties." James
Mackenzie, of Kirkton (brother of John Mackenzie of the "Beauties"), has
furnished a large chapter of Gairloch stories, besides a number of
facts, traditions, and anecdotes; wherever the name of James Mackenzie
occurs in these pages, it is this worthy Highlander who is referred to.
Other Gairloch traditions, stories, and information have been furnished
by Kenneth Fraser, Leac nan Saighead (through the medium of the _Celtic
Magazine_); Alexander Maclennan, Mossbank; Roderick Mackenzie (Ruaridh
an Torra), Lonmor; George and Kenneth Maclennan, Tollie Croft; John
Maclean (Iain Buidhe Taillear), Strath; Simon Chisholm, Flowerdale;
Roderick Campbell, Tollie; Donald Ross, Kenlochewe; Alexander Mackenzie
(Ali' Iain Ghlass), piper, Poolewe; George Maclennan, Londubh; and
Alexander Maclennan (Alie Uistean), Inveran, who especially has given me
considerable assistance. The legend of Ewan Mac Gabhar is mainly in the
form given in the works of James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, supported
to some extent by several of the old people now living in Gairloch. That
enthusiastic friend of the Highlander, Professor Blackie, has kindly
contributed two English versions of Gaelic songs; and Mr William
Clements Good, of Aberdeen, has given similar aid. Professor W. Ivison
Macadam has communicated the results of his analyses of ores and slags,
and has assisted in examining the remains of the old ironworks. Mr D.
William Kemp, of Trinity, Edinburgh, has generously done a very great
deal to unravel the history of the ironworks, and in other ways.
Lieutenant Lamont, of Achtercairn, has procured the traditions given on
the authority of Ruaridh an Torra. Mr Mackintosh, postmaster, Poolewe,
has supplied some anecdotes and facts. The Glossary has been prepared
with the aid of Mr O. H. Mackenzie; the Rev. Ronald Dingwall, Free
Church minister, Aultbea; Mr Alexander Cameron, the Tournaig bard; and
Mr Alexander Maclennan, Inveran. The names of some others who have
rendered valuable help are stated where their information is utilised.
To all these ungrudging helpers, and to many others not mentioned by
name, I beg to offer my sincere thanks.
To render the natural history of Gairloch complete, lists are still
needed of the insects, sea-anemones, grasses, mosses, lichens, fungi,
sea-weeds, and fresh-water weeds. Any information on these and other
branches of natural history will be heartily welcomed, with a view to
insertion in a possible future edition.
The process of zincography, by which nearly all the illustrations have
been reproduced, has not in many cases realised my expectations, but it
has been thought best to issue the book at once rather than wait until
the illustrations could be rendered in a superior manner.
The profits, if any, from the sale of this book will be applied in aid
of the Poolewe Public Hall.
JOHN H. DIXON.
Inveran, Gairloch, _1st September 1886_.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
Flowerdale House, West Coast Residence of
the Baronets of Gairloch _Frontispiece_
Loch Maree, from Inveran 9
Crosses on the Graves of the Prince and Princess on Isle Maree 10
At Ardlair 15
On Craig Tollie 22
Island or Crannog on Loch Tollie 25
Gairloch, from Strath 35
Glen Grudidh, from Loch Maree 42
Beinn Lair, from Fionn Loch 54
Chapel of Sand of Udrigil 70
Sir George Hay, of Megginish, Knight, the Ironfounder of Loch
Maree _Facing_ 75
The Minister's Stone, Ardlair 81
Sir George Hay, First Earl of Kinnoull, High Chancellor of
Scotland, the Ironfounder of Loch Maree _Facing_ 82
On the Ewe 96
A Mutch 130
Cabar Lar, or Turf Parer 131
Tor-sgian, or Peat Knife 133
Cliabh Moine, or Peat Creel 134
Highland Hand-Plough called Cas-Chrom, or "crooked foot" 135
A Gairloch Man 216
Umbrella Fir, Glas Leitire 305
Above Grudidh Bridge 306
Leth Chreag, Tollie 314
Dunan, on Loch Tournaig 319
Near Grudidh 322
Slioch, from Rudha Aird an Anail 326
Natural Arch, Cove 334
Curious Rocks, Sand of Udrigil 338
Loch Maree, from Ardlair 340
Clach a Mhail, Ardlair 342
Uamh a Mhail, Ardlair 343
ANTIQUITIES
_From Drawings by Finlay Mackinnon. The numbers correspond with
those given on pp. 103, 104._
PAGE
1. Bronze Ring, found at Londubh 103
2. Hollow Bronze Ring, found at Londubh 104
3. Bronze Spear Head, found, along with a Stag's Horn, near
Inverewe House 104
4. Bronze Spear Head, found at Londubh 110
5. Bronze Celt, found at Slatadale 110
6. Stone Celt, found at Cove 113
7. Bronze Spear, found at Croft 117
8. Bronze Celt, found at Londubh 121
9. Stone Implement, found in Peat-Cutting between Inveran and
Kernsary 124
10. Quern or Trough, found in a Broch or Pictish Round House at
Tournaig 142
11. Fragment of Trough, found in a Broch or Pictish Round House
at Tournaig 146
12. Bronze Penannular Ring, found at Londubh 150
13. Cast Iron Appliance, probably part of Machinery, from the
Fasagh Ironworks 158
14. Tuyere, from the Fasagh Ironworks 163
NOTES.--The portraits of Sir George Hay, the Ironfounder of
Loch Maree, are lithographed reproductions from photographs
of pictures in Dupplin Castle, taken by permission of the
present Earl of Kinnoull.
All the illustrations are original, except No. 12 of the
Antiquities, which is reduced from that in Mr Jolly's paper
on "Bronze Weapons and other Remains found near Poolewe."
The sketches for the illustrations of Flowerdale House and
the Natural Arch at Cove are after photographs by Mr Fraser
of Reilig. In no case have published photographs been used
in the preparation of illustrations.
Map _At the end_
CONTENTS.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xi
GLOSSARY OF GAELIC NAMES AND WORDS xxvii
INTRODUCTION.
Extent of Gairloch parish--Name--Curious muddle about "the
Gairloch"--Name used in four senses--Attractions of
Gairloch--Loch Maree--Superficial observation of
tourists--A party declare they have "seen Loch
Maree"--Inducements to longer visits--Credibility of old
traditions--Gaelic names--Pronunciation--Interference with
sportsmen and deer forests deprecated--Mountain
ascents--Drawbacks to them--Shorter climbs
recommended--Mania for exterminating plants--Instances xliii
PART I.--RECORDS AND TRADITIONS OF GAIRLOCH.
CHAPTER I.--EARLY HISTORY.
Absence of ancient records--Giants in those days--Fingalian
legends--Condition of Pictish aborigines--Their houses and
implements--Druids--Roman invasion--Pictish
monarchy--Introduction of Christianity--St
Maelrubha--Hermits of Isle Maree--Norse vikings--Norwegians
and Danes--End of Norwegian rule in 1263--The earls of
Ross--Donald of the Isles--The Mackenzies 3
CHAPTER II.--THE TRAGEDY OF ISLE MAREE.
Scene laid in Isle Maree--The hermit saint--Prince Olaf--His
fiery temper--Falls in love--Brings his bride to Isle
Maree--Is compelled to leave her on an expedition--The white
and black flags--Return of the prince--Jealousy of the
princess--Her scheme to test Olaf's affection--His madness
on seeing the black flag--Thinking her dead he kills
himself--The princess stabs herself and dies--Their graves
on Isle Maree 7
CHAPTER III.--THE MACKENZIES OF KINTAIL.
Two origins of the family of Mackenzie--The Cabar
Feidh--Angus Mac Mhathain--Kenneth, first lord of
Kintail--John, second lord, shelters Robert Bruce--Kenneth
of the Nose--Kenlochewe ravaged--Leod Mac
Gilleandreis--Black Murdo of the Cave--Joined by Gille
Riabhach--Comes to Kenlochewe--Slays Leod Mac Gilleandreis
and his followers--Ath nan Ceann--Fe Leoid--Black Murdo of
the Cave recovers Kintail--Murdo of the Bridge, fifth lord
of Kintail--Alexander the Upright, father of Hector Roy,
first laird of Gairloch--Skirmish of Beallach nam
Brog--Residences of lords of Kintail 11
CHAPTER IV.--EWAN MAC GABHAR, THE SON OF THE GOAT.
Ardlair--The cave of the king's son--Old Oighrig and her son
Kenneth--The goat Earba nourishes Ewan in the cave--Flora and
Ewan come to Letterewe--Ewan's sword and mantle of
state--The lord of Kintail comes to hunt--Flora and Ewan
suspected--Kenneth and Flora carried off to
Eileandonain--Oighrig and Ewan conveyed to Colin Mor
Gillespie--Colin Mor brings up Ewan--Great war against the
queen widow of Olamh Mor--Ewan gets a command--His slender
page--Mull plundered--The invaders surprised at night and
captured--The queen condemns the chiefs to death--Ewan led
forth to die--The execution arrested--Ewan identified and
proclaimed king--Prophecy fulfilled 14
CHAPTER V.--THE MACRAES OF KINTAIL AND GAIRLOCH.
The Macraes settle in Kintail--Become Mackenzie's "shirt of
mail"--The sons of Fortune--Assist in conquest of
Gairloch--List of Macraes who fought for Gairloch--Effigy
of Donald Odhair--Macraes renowned archers--Compared with
Turkish archers--The Macraes bore the dead bodies of their
chiefs to burial--The last occasion of this--Curious
statement 19
CHAPTER VI.--THE MACBEATHS.
MacBeaths from Assynt--Some still in Gairloch--Had several
strongholds--Lochan nan Airm--Kintail men come to Loch
Tollie--Shoot MacBeath's servant on the island--MacBeath
flies--Is struck by an arrow--Kintail men stay a night on
the island--Come through Gairloch--Report to their chief 21
CHAPTER VII.--THE M'LEODS OF GAIRLOCH.
The Siol Torquil--Claim to Gairloch--Legal title commenced
1430--MacBeaths expelled--The Tigh Dige--Strongholds of the
M'Leods--Eilean Ruaridh--Allan M'Leod, laird of
Gairloch--Murdered by his brothers at the "Hill of evil
counsel"--They also murder his two boys--The widow takes
their bloody shirts to her father--Hector Roy takes the
shirts to the king--Who gives Hector commission of fire and
sword against the M'Leods--The M'Leods confined to one-third
of Gairloch 24
CHAPTER VIII.--THE MACDONALDS IN GAIRLOCH.
Macdonalds, clansmen of Donald of the Isles--Probably some
settled in Gairloch--Still in Gairloch and Alligin--Mac
Gille Riabhaich--His cave--Story of his oak cudgel--The
soubriquet Darach--His descendant, Darroch of
Torridon--Donald Dubh Mac Gillechriosd Mhic Gille Riabhaich
--Threatens Hector Roy--Slays Buchanan after Flodden Field 27
CHAPTER IX.--HECTOR ROY MACKENZIE, FIRST LAIRD OF GAIRLOCH.
Vision of the great chief and his bodyguard--His appearance
and valour--Obtains charter to Gairloch--Slays three
M'Leods at "the Gairloch"--The battle of Park--Hector Roy
and Big Duncan of the Axe--Hector Roy at Sauchieburn--He
claims Kintail--Battle of Drum a Chait--Big Duncan again
assists--Hector Roy outlawed--Assists Mac Cailean--Kneels
before the king--Grasps his hand--Is pardoned--Abandons his
claim to Kintail--Fight with M'Leods at Beallach
Glasleathaid--Big Duncan and his son Dugal--Hector Roy
conquers part of Gairloch--Battle of Flodden--Clan Eachainn 29
CHAPTER X.--JOHN GLASSICH MACKENZIE AND HIS SONS.
John Glassich brought up in Strathglass--Claims
Kintail--Refuses to join the royal standard--Apprehended by
Kenneth of Kintail--Iain Gearr's pluck--Death of John
Glassich--Donald Gorme invades Kenlochewe--Hector and
Alexander, sons of John Glassich, both slain 36
CHAPTER XI.--JOHN ROY MACKENZIE.
John Roy resembled his grandfather Hector--His youth--Visits
his mother, wife of Mackay--Goes with a bodyguard to Iain
Liath at Glas Leitire--Lord Kintail abandons his hunt on the
Glas Leitire hills--John Roy and Iain Liath go to
Gairloch--Iain Dubh Mac Ruaridh M'Leod abandons the Gairloch
dun--Struggles with the M'Leods--John Roy's family--His
bodyguard composed of his twelve sons--Dealings with the
tithes of Gairloch--The Talladale ironworks--John Roy's
residence--Visits Mackay--Mackay's piper becomes John Roy's
piper--Lord Mackenzie summons John Roy to Torridon--He stays
the night with his lordship--Proposed assassination
deferred--John Roy's sons arrive and take him away--Allies
of Glengarry Macdonalds make an incursion to
Kenlochewe--Lord Mackenzie visits John Roy--John Roy granted
a remission by the crown 38
CHAPTER XII.--EXPULSION OF THE M'LEODS FROM GAIRLOCH.
Murchadh Riabhach na Cuirce--Slays Mac Iain Dhuibh
M'Leod--Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod assassinates Iain Mac
Ghille Challum M'Leod and his sons by Janet Mackenzie--John
Roy revenges the murder--Expels the M'Leods from
Gairloch--The Cnoc a Chrochadair--The affair at Leac nan
Saighead--Mor Ban persuades the M'Leods to invade
Gairloch--They come to Fraoch Eilean--Donald Odhar and his
brother shoot them from Leac nan Saighead--Only two M'Leods
escape in the birlinn--Donald Odhar's long shot from Craig a
Chait--Young M'Leod of Assynt asks John Roy's daughter for
his wife--Is refused--Fionnla Dubh na Saighead insults
him--The M'Leods return to take vengeance on Finlay--He and
Chisholm shoot many of them--Finlay pursues Neil M'Leod to
the Bac an Leth-choin and shoots him at the Druim Carn
Neill--Fight at Lochan an Fheidh--Affair at Raasay--Murdo
Mackenzie in his ship driven into Kirkton--Young M'Leod of
Raasay and his companions visit him--All the party get drunk
except four Gairloch men--A fight ensues--Murdo drowned--All
on board slain except three of the abstainers--They escape 43
CHAPTER XIII.--ALASTAIR BREAC, AND HIS SON AND GRANDSON.
Alastair Breac, a renowned warrior--Raids of cattle
lifters--Iain Geal Donn proposes a raid on
Gairloch--Alastair Buidhe Mackay intercepts him at
Scardroy--Slays him and all his men except one--Alastair
Breac sends the news to Lord Mackenzie--Cameron of Lochiel
plans a raid on Gairloch in revenge--Alastair Breac sends
eighty men to oppose him, but he has retired--Song composed
to the Guard of the Black Corrie--Colla Ban--In default of
blackmail threatens raid on Gairloch--His spies are
frightened by four Gairloch men at Luibmhor--Kenneth, sixth
laird of Gairloch, fined as a "malignant"--Alexander,
seventh laird of Gairloch 49
CHAPTER XIV.--THE BARONETS OF GAIRLOCH AND SOME OTHER
GAIRLOCH MACKENZIES.
Sir Kenneth, eighth laird of Gairloch--M.P. for
Ross-shire--Sir Alexander, ninth laird of Gairloch--Builds
Flowerdale--The "Forty-five"--Murder of the Gille Buidhe,
valet to Prince Charlie--Duncan Macrae conveys a keg of gold
for Prince Charlie's use--The "sian"--English man-of-war
fires at Flowerdale--Sir Alexander, tenth laird of
Gairloch--Builds Conan House--His son called "Fighting
Jack," the father of the British army--Sir Hector
Mackenzie--Lives at home--Lord-Lieutenant of Ross-shire--His
beloved lady--Sir Francis Mackenzie--Publishes his "Hints"
in 1838--Sir Kenneth, present baronet--Mackenzies of
Letterewe--Mackenzies of Lochend--Mackenzies of
Gruinard--Large family--Mackenzies of Kernsary--Summary of
Mackenzie History--Crest, Badge, Slogan, and Pipe tunes 53
CHAPTER XV.--GAIRLOCH ESTATES, AND OLD NAMES OF PLACES.
Kenlochewe--Gairloch--Description in protocol of
1494--Description in retour of 1566--Description in
1638--Names in Dutch map of 1662--Second half of the water
of Ewe bought in 1671--Strip on north of River Ewe acquired
in 1844--Letterewe originally Kintail property--Acquired by
Charles Mackenzie in 1696--Sold to Mr Bankes in
1835--Northern parts of Gairloch belonging to Gruinard
Mackenzies before 1655--Sold to Davidson of Tulloch in
1795--Afterwards acquired by Mr Bankes--Mr O. H. Mackenzie's
estate of Inverewe 60
CHAPTER XVI.--ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY OF GAIRLOCH.
First church in Gairloch--Other early ecclesiastical
buildings--Rector of Gairloch at date of
Reformation--Presbyterianism--Tulchan bishops--Changes from
Episcopalianism to Presbyterianism--Rev. Alexander
Mackenzie--Rev. Farquhar Macrae--Rev. Roderick
Mackenzie--Rev. Kenneth Mackenzie of Kernsary--Rev. John
Morrison--Persecuted by Episcopalians--Anecdotes--His
turf-built church in Tollie Bay--Christmas story--Rev. James
Smith--First school in Gairloch--Anecdote of Rev. Mr
Sage--Rev. Æneas McAulay--Rev. John Dounie--Rev. James
Russell--His imperfect Gaelic--Poolewe made a separate
parish--The Disruption--Presbyteries of Dingwall,
Kenlochewe, Chanonry, Gairloch, and Loch Carron--Churches in
Gairloch--Manse and glebe at Achdistall, Cliff and
Strath--Free churches and their ministers 63
CHAPTER XVII.--ANCIENT GAIRLOCH IRONWORKS.
Two classes of remains of ironworks--Rev. Donald M'Nicol's
statement--Coin found near old Yorkshire ironworks--Iron
implements used by ancient inhabitants--Disappearance of
them accounted for--Other ancient remains in
Sutherlandshire, Ross-shire, and Inverness-shire--Bog iron
was the ore used of old in Gairloch--Processes of the
ancient ironworkers--Wasteful richness of their slags
accounted for--Charcoal was their fuel--The ancient forests
of timber--Their disappearance--Water power anciently
employed for working hammers 72
CHAPTER XVIII.--THE HISTORIC IRONWORKS OF LOCH MAREE.
The present series of Scottish ironworks commenced on Loch
Maree--The licence to Archibald Primrose for making iron
ratified in 1612--Spread of the iron industry in the
eighteenth century--Iron furnaces in Glengarry--Abernethy
furnaces of the York Buildings Company--The Bonawe
furnace--The Argyle Furnace Company--The Lorn Company--The
Carron ironworks--The Wilsonton works--Furnace at
Goatfield--Pennant's notice of the furnace near Poolewe--The
Fife Adventurers and the Lews--The Rev. Farquhar Macrae,
vicar of Gairloch--The Letterewe furnace established in 1607
by Sir George Hay--Previous history of Sir George--His
residence at Letterewe--His ironworks--The timber
consumed--The goods produced--The improvements he
effected--Act prohibiting the making of iron with
wood--Monopoly of iron manufacture granted to Sir
George--Ratified by Parliament--Proclamation restraining the
export of iron ore--Licence to Sir George to sell iron in
royal burghs--Sir George's probable acquaintance with John
Roy Mackenzie, laird of Gairloch--Sir George's friendship
with the Rev. Farquhar Macrae--The minister's stone--Sir
George leaves Letterewe--His distinguished
after-career--Created first Earl of Kinnoull--Continuance of
the ironworks--Tombstone of John Hay--His probable
relationship to Sir George--Discontinuance of the
ironworks--The artisans employed--Whence they came--The
Kemps--The Cladh nan Sasunnach--Condition of the ironworkers
in the then state of the Highlands--The Big Englishman 75
CHAPTER XIX.--THE IRON ORES USED IN GAIRLOCH.
References to local iron ore--Local bog iron used at ancient
bloomeries--Ferruginous rocks and shales--Traditional
quarries--Richness of bog iron--Places where it is still
found in Gairloch--Bog iron originally used by Sir George
Hay--He afterwards imported red hematite and clayband
ironstone--Mr Marr's description of these ores--They were
landed at Poolewe--Remains of them there--Mr Macadam's
analyses--Mixture with local ore--Classification of the ores 86
CHAPTER XX.--REMAINS OF IRONWORKS IN THE PARISH OF GAIRLOCH.
Mr Macadam's description of two classes of slag--List of six
localities of ironworks--Glen
Dochartie--Fasagh--Analyses--Lochan Cul na
Cathrach--Furnace, Letterewe--Talladale--Garavaig, on
Slatadale farm--Red Smiddy, near Poolewe--Iron articles
found--The borings at Cuil an Scardain--Chronological order
of the ironworks--Other supposed furnaces--Notices of
ironworks or mines in old Dutch map, and in "Present State
of Great Britain and Ireland"--Conclusion 90
CHAPTER XXI.--ANTIQUITIES.
Want of interesting remains of ancient buildings--Supposed
Druidical remains in Tollie wood--Druidical enclosure on
Isle Maree--The Island of Justice--Pictish round
houses--Vitrified fort--Ancient duns, strongholds, or
crannogs--Remains of churches--Gairloch church--Culinellan
church--Turf-built church in Tollie Bay--Church at Tollie
Croft, or Cruive End--Chapel of Inverewe--Chapel of Sand of
Udrigil--Old burial-grounds--Remains of other old
buildings--Remains on Isle Maree--On Eilean Ruaridh Beag--On
Eilean Suainne--The Tigh Dige--The Sabhal-Geal--The Temple
house--Old houses--Ancient weapons and implements--The Feill
Iudha--Caves 97
PART II.--INHABITANTS OF GAIRLOCH.
CHAPTER I.--ANCESTRY AND NAMES.
Highlanders different to Scotch--Gairloch people originally
Celtic--Admixture of blood--Mackenzies
predominant--Surnames little used--Mode of constructing
Gaelic names--Examples--Bynames--Curious names of girls 109
CHAPTER II.--WARFARE AND WEAPONS.
Gairloch a bone of contention--Broadsword and targe--Bows
and arrows--Battle-axe--Dirk--Guns--Clan fights no
more--Seaforth Highlanders--A Gairloch company--The
press-gang--Donald M'Lean returns "from hell"--Volunteer
corps--Story of Finlay Fraser and his guns 112
CHAPTER III.--POLITY AND CUSTOMS.
Improvement after the "Forty-five"--Increase of
schools--Report on educational position of the people by
Rev. James Russell--Education under the School
Boards--Relief of the poor--Beggars almost
unknown--Tramps--Tinkers--Old man seeking America--Her
Majesty's note about him--Old marriage customs--Funeral
customs--Whisky at funerals--Heaps of stones at
halting-places--New Year's day, old style--Administration of
justice at the Island of Justice--Mode of procedure--The
Cnoc a Chroich, or Gallows Hill--Some old Gairloch men
acquainted with folk-lore 114
CHAPTER IV.--RELIGION AND RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES.
No records of Episcopal times--Sunday services--Baptism--The
Lord's supper dispensed in the Leabaidh na Ba Bàine--Dr
Mackenzie's account of churchgoing and the
communions--Johnnie at church for the first time--Five days'
services--Large crowd; few communicants--Preparation for
Gairloch communion--The scene in the Leabaidh--Aunt
Sally--Characteristics of Free Church services and religion 117
CHAPTER V.--CHARACTER AND CHARACTERISTICS.
Criticism invidious--Gairloch people have a good
character--Fidelity, courtesy, and hospitality--Sir G. S.
Mackenzie's opinion--Sir Francis Mackenzie's tribute to his
Gairloch people--Attachment to home--Caution and keenness
in money matters--Anecdote--Captain Burt's charge of want of
cleanliness not generally applicable
now--Morality--Indolence--Always behind time--Clinging to
old ways--Old Highland _esprit_ dying out--Annual
competition recommended 121
CHAPTER VI.--LANGUAGE AND DRESS.
Gaelic called Irish--Gairloch dialect--Not dying
out--Knowledge of English increasing--Old people still
unable to speak English--Gaelic phrases in English--Gaelic
literature in Gairloch--Should Gaelic be
discouraged?--Ancient dress in Gairloch--Belted plaid or
truis--Separate form of the kilt--Antiquity of the
kilt--Highland dress proscribed--Subterfuges--Discouraged
homespun fabrics--Kilt common in Gairloch in early part of
nineteenth century--Sir Francis Mackenzie on the kilt--Now
fallen into disuse--Present dress of men--Gairloch
hose--Dress of women--The mutch--Maiden's headdress--Dr
Mackenzie on maiden's hair and on mutches 125
CHAPTER VII.--WAYS AND MEANS.
Sources of livelihood--Industry of women--Dwellings--Byres
adjoining--No chimneys--Gradual improvement--Gardens
rare--Fevers and consumption--Food--Absence of
pigs--Whisky--Illicit distillation--Fuel--Torasgian--Cabar
lar--Peat creel--Carts--Sledges before roads were made 132
CHAPTER VIII.--AGRICULTURE AND STOCK.
Little agriculture in ancient days--Black cattle--Blood
taken from living cattle--The bowmen--Hill shielings
miserable places--Introduction of sheep farming--Sheep
farms forested--Sheep deteriorate pasture--Ancient breed of
sheep--Present farms--Run-rig--Crofts established in
Gairloch--Crofters' crops--The cas-chrom--Sir G. S.
Mackenzie on imperfect agriculture--On indolence--The
Highland husbandman--His negligence--Sir Francis Mackenzie
on imperfect cultivation--On manures--On the cas-chrom--On
lack of industry--On absence of gardens--Introduction of the
potato 136
CHAPTER IX.--FISHERIES.
Gairloch fishermen and fish--Herring fisheries--Lobsters and
crabs--Oysters--Gairloch cod fishery--Under Sir Alexander
Mackenzie, 1721 to 1766--In 1792--Sir G. S. Mackenzie's
account of it under Sir Hector--Lines and hooks formerly
home-made--First foreign hooks in 1823--Cod fishery in 1884
and 1885--Salmon fishery--Bag-nets--Diminution in stock of
salmon 143
CHAPTER X.--POSTS AND ROADMAKING.
Post-runners to Gairloch--Dr Mackenzie's account--Donald
Charles--Roderick M'Lennan--William Cross--M'Leay--Iain Mor
am Post--General Wade's road--Bridges in Gairloch--Road from
Gairloch to Poolewe--The Dowager Lady Mackenzie's account of
road-making--Destitution Committee contribute to
road-making--Road to Fionn loch 147
CHAPTER XI.--SUPERSTITIONS OF ISLE MAREE.
Isle Maree conspicuous--The wishing-tree--Her Majesty's
offering--St Maelrubha permitted sacrifices of
bulls--Continued to 1678--Latterly associated with cure of
insanity--Treatment of lunatics--Still continued--Dr
Mitchell's description--Circular enclosure supposed to be
Druidical--Graves of the prince and princess--The
well--Description of the wishing-tree--Trees of Isle
Maree--Probability of the legend of Isle Maree--Name of
island derived from St Maelrubha--St Maelrubha worshipped 150
CHAPTER XII.--SUPERSTITIONS OF ISLE MAREE--_continued._
Druidical sacrifices engrafted on Christianity--Resort to
Isle Maree for cure of lunacy probably ancient--Parallel
superstitions--Bull sacrifice at Kirkcudbright--Sacrifices
of bulls not confined to the saint's day--Descriptions of
proceedings for cure of lunatics--MacCulloch's
description--No form of words--Recent cases--St Maelrubha
and St Ruffus identical--Mad dog dipped in the well--Sad
consequences--Quotations as to Pagan practices engrafted on
Christianity 153
CHAPTER XIII.--SUPERSTITIONS GENERALLY.
Highlanders' surroundings suggest superstition--Gradual
diminution of it--Older superstitions--Loch Maree water
cure--The Fox Point--Coins found--The Cathair mor and
Sitheanan Dubha--Gairloch fairy tale--The Shiant Isles'
fairy--Eilean Suainne--Fairies seen on Isle Ewe in
1883--Lights and music of fairies noticed at Mellon
Charles--William M'Lean gets a bagpipe chanter from the
fairies--The Gille Dubh of Loch a Druing--Superstitious
fancies--The Loch of the Beast--Evidence of the appearance
of the beast--Proceedings for its suppression--Rorie and the
mermaid 158
CHAPTER XIV.--WITCHCRAFT AND MAGIC.
Rudha Chailleach--Witchcraft and magic still believed
in--Jessie the cripple, a witch--Depriving milk of its
fruit--Kenlochewe case in presbytery records--Kenneth
Mackenzie, the maighstair sgoil, punishes the witch at
Strath--His cows recover--Recent cases--The
sian--Description of it--Duncan M'Rae--His song--Entrusted
with a keg of gold for Prince Charlie--Hides the keg in the
Fedan Mor--Renders it invisible by the sian--The wife of the
Cibear Mor sees the keg--The cave at Meallan a Ghamhna--The
cave and weapons concealed by the sian--Seen by several
women recently--Another similar case on Loch Maree--Alastair
Mor an t' Sealgair--Runs the blockade by means of the
sian--His variations of the sian--Other examples of
Alastair's and his father's powers--The wind made favourable
by magic 163
CHAPTER XV.--VISIONS AND SECOND-SIGHT.
Distinction between visions and second-sight--Old Alastair's
vision of Hector Roy and his bodyguard--A young man sees a
ghost--Two men see a woman in a house--Spectre seen before a
shoot--Two kinds of second-sight--Jessie the cripple--Ducked
as a witch--Her vision of a shepherd, his dog and sheep,
fulfilled--The smith's son sees a crowd on Poolewe
bridge--His vision fulfilled--The great storm on Loch
Ewe--Great sight at Mellon Udrigil--Fleet of ships and boats
filled with red coats--Visions of soldiers in red uniforms
near Inveran--These visions compared with similar sights
elsewhere 169
CHAPTER XVI.--BARDS AND PIPERS.
Ancient bards an illustrious class--Ossian's poems--Office
of bard or seannachie--Bards of recent
date--Ceilidh--Antiquity of bagpipes--Office of piper in old
days--In the present day--Love of pipe music in
Gairloch--Some old Gairloch bards--Ruaridh Breac--The
English bard--Duncan M'Rae--Roderick Campbell, piper and
fiddler--The Piobaire Ban--List of living Gairloch pipers 173
CHAPTER XVII.--HEREDITARY PIPERS OF THE GAIRLOCH FAMILY.
The Mackays--Rorie Mackay, piper to John Roy
Mackenzie--Alastair Breac, and his son and grandson--His
brother Donald--John Mackay, the blind piper--Taught by the
M'Crimmons--Piper to the two first baronets of Gairloch--His
compositions--Anecdotes of his life with the M'Crimmons--His
songs and poems--Angus Mackay--Piper to Sir Alexander, third
baronet--Moladh Mairi--John Mackay, piper to Sir
Hector--Emigrates to America--A splendid piper--His
offspring 177
CHAPTER XVIII.--WILLIAM MACKENZIE AND MALCOLM MACLEAN.
William Mackenzie a catechist--His song to Balone's
sister--His song lampooning a wedding party--His consequent
dismissal--Malcolm Maclean a notorious bacchanalian--His
beautiful daughter--His wife's resignation illustrated by an
anecdote--Translation by Professor Blackie of his song to
his daughter 180
CHAPTER XIX.--WILLIAM ROSS, THE GAIRLOCH BARD.
William Ross, a grandson of the "Blind piper"--His
youth--His travels--Appointed schoolmaster of Gairloch--Dies
young--Monument over his grave--Estimate of his poetry 183
CHAPTER XX.--ALEXANDER CAMPBELL, BARD TO SIR HECTOR.
Alastair Buidhe's ancestry and youth--Appointed
ground-officer and bard to Sir Hector--Instructed to remove
the roof from a defaulting tenant's house--His prudent
artifice approved by Sir Hector--Dr Mackenzie's
recollections of Alastair as bard--His bad health, and
death--His character--His friendship with William Ross--His
descendants--His poetry highly appreciated 185
CHAPTER XXI.--ALEXANDER GRANT, THE GREAT BARD OF SLAGGAN.
Sandy Grant's ancestry--His enormous stature and
strength--His appearance, portrait, and poetry--Reputed to
have second-sight--Anecdote--Sandy Grant discovers cheeses
stolen in Loch Carron--His descendants 187
CHAPTER XXII.--JOHN MACKENZIE OF THE "BEAUTIES."
John's ancestry and youth--His mechanical skill--An accident
disables him--Collects Gaelic poems--Devotes himself to
literary work--List of books he translated--Known as a poet
and piper--Anecdote of his humour--Buys a ship and her
cargo--Gives up the bargain--Monument to his memory 189
CHAPTER XXIII.--LIVING GAIRLOCH BARDS.
Alexander Mackenzie, of Oban--Duncan Mackenzie, the
Kenlochewe bard--Short memoir--His poetry--His epithalamium
on the marriage of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie--Translation of it
by Professor Blackie--Alexander Cameron, the Tournaig
bard--His song in praise of Tournaig--English translation by
Mr W. C. Good--Alexander Bain--His elegy on the late Dr
Kennedy--English translation 192
CHAPTER XXIV.--THE POOLEWE ARTIST.
Paucity of art in Gairloch--Finlay Mackinnon--His
characteristics--His yearning for art as a young
boy--Assisted by Mr Davis, R.A., and others--His watercolour
sketches 200
CHAPTER XXV.--JAMES MACKENZIE'S GAIRLOCH STORIES.
Short Account of James Mackenzie--William Roy Mackenzie and
the exciseman--Kenneth and John Mackenzie of Rona and the
press-gang--John M'Gregor of Londubh escapes from the
press-gang, but is killed by a fall over a rock--Murdo
Mackenzie, or Murdo's son, marries Lord Breadalbane's
daughter and takes possession of a lugger full of smuggled
spirit--Anecdote of Sir Hector Mackenzie and M'Leod of
Raasay's boat--Mackenzie of Kernsary and James Mackenzie's
grandfather--The whale in Loch Ewe drowns three men--A story
of Rob Donn--The Loch Broom herring fishery--The other Rob
Roy Macgregor and the Dundonnell estates--Cases of drowning
in Loch Maree--Hector Mackenzie, William Urquhart and his
son, and Kenneth Mackenzie--A Kenlochewe man rolls
overboard--Kenneth Mackenzie and Gregor Macgregor carried
down by the Talladale river--John M'Ryrie--Kenneth
Urquhart--Sandy Mackenzie--The Stornoway packet and the
whale--Wreck of M'Callum's schooner at Melvaig--A sea
captain buried in Isle Ewe--The loss of the "Glenelg"--Wreck
of the "Helen Marianne" of Campbeltown--Wreck of the "Lord
Molyneux" of Liverpool--John Macdonald, the drover of Loch
Maree--The murder of Grant, the peddler, by M'Leod, who is
at length hung--Death of the Shieldaig shoemaker and his
companions at Lochinver 201
PART III.--NATURAL HISTORY OF GAIRLOCH.
CHAPTER I.--PHYSICAL FEATURES.
Area and boundaries of Gairloch--Sea-board--Long valley
bisecting the parish--Ranges and groups of
mountains--Islands in the sea--Fresh-water
lochs--Rivers--Woods--Caves--Waterfalls--The Steall a
Mhuinidh--Victoria Falls--Letterewe waterfall--Kerry
falls--Flowerdale waterfalls--Scenic beauties 219
CHAPTER II.--CLIMATE AND WEATHER.
Healthy climate of north-west Highlands--Changeable
weather--Sir G. S. Mackenzie on the climate--Dr Mackenzie on
the old-fashioned summers--Former abundance of
nuts--Strawberries on 4th June, also cherries--Short summer
nights--Aurora borealis--Rarity of intense frosts--Spring
mist presages snow--A hard winter--Sunsets from the Gairloch
Hotel--Cloudscapes--Colouring of landscapes 222
CHAPTER III.--ANECDOTES AND NOTES.
Birds, formerly rare in Gairloch, now plentiful, and _vice
versâ_--Dr Mackenzie's remarks on this point--Eagles in
Gairloch--Anecdote of Craig-Tollie eagle and roe
deer--Confirmation from Martin's book--Also from story of
Kirghiz eagles, &c.--Anecdote of Kenlochewe eagle and the
cat--Subject of a well-known Gaelic riddle--Eagle at
Talladale--Two-and-a-half brace of eagles killed in Gairloch
before breakfast--Sea-gulls--How they were driven from
Eilean Ruaridh--Sounds of various birds at
Inveran--Insects--Midges and wasps--Her Majesty's remarks on
them--Rhyme on midges--Preventive measures--Other
insects--Animals in general--Vermin--Marten's fur--Wild
cats--Wild cat in Loch Tollie island--Highland
cattle--Goats--Ponies 227
CHAPTER IV.--LOWER FORMS OF LIFE.
Diffusion of life--Luminosity of footprints on boggy
ground--Reptiles--Fresh-water fish--Shells--Molluscs--The
spout fish--How to take it--Sea anemones--Love of
flowers--Localities recommended to
botanists--Grasses--Mosses--Lichens--List of a
few--Seaweeds--Fungi--Conclusion 233
CHAPTER V.--MAMMALS OF GAIRLOCH.
List of Gairloch mammals, with notes--Notes on Arctic fox in
Gairloch and elsewhere 236
CHAPTER VI.--BIRDS OF GAIRLOCH.
List of Gairloch birds, with notes 241
CHAPTER VII.--FLOWERING PLANTS OF GAIRLOCH.
List imperfect--A word to visitors--Destruction of plants by
sheep--Bouquets of wildflowers--Seasons for them--Rarer
plants--List of flowering plants 256
CHAPTER VIII.--SHELLS OF GAIRLOCH, BY REV. JOHN M'MURTRIE, M.A.
Paper by Rev. John M'Murtrie, M.A., on "Springtide at
Gairloch, a Study of small Shells"--Appendix, with list of
shells 265
CHAPTER IX.--THE GEOLOGY OF LOCH MAREE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD,
BY WILLIAM JOLLY, F.G.S., F.R.S.E.
Long controversy--Attack by eminent geologists--Others enter
the lists--Prospect of early peace--Conditions of the
problem well exhibited round Loch Maree--Succession of
rocks--Hebridean gneiss--Torridon red
sandstone--Quartzite--Its annelid borings--Its fucoid
remains--Limestone--The "Logan" rock--The eastern
gneiss--The controversy--Other noteworthy geological
phenomena--Faults--Glaciation--Denudation--Rock
junctions--The valley of the hundred hills--Curious
impressions on Torridon sandstone near Talladale--The Fionn
and Dubh loch--The Trias at Loch Gruinard 271
CHAPTER X.--MINERALS OF GAIRLOCH, BY PROFESSOR W. IVISON
MACADAM, F.C.S., F.I.C., M.M.S., &c., Edinburgh.
List of minerals and localities 289
PART IV.--GUIDE TO GAIRLOCH AND LOCH MAREE.
CHAPTER I.--GAIRLOCH OF THE PRESENT DAY.
No town in Gairloch--List of townships or hamlets--Ministers
and services--Free churches and ministers--Schools--School
Board--Table of Schools, with average attendance--List of
school teachers--Side schools--School rate--Obstacles to
regular attendance--Annual inspections--Registrar of Births,
Deaths, and Marriages--Pauperism--Poor-rates--Pauper
lunatics--Medical officer--The county road--Private
roads--Policemen--Justices of the Peace--Licensed
houses--Postal
arrangements--Telegraph--Carrier--Bank--Markets--Preventive
service--Steamers--Rifle corps--Its three
sections--Principal houses in Gairloch--Poolewe Public Hall 293
CHAPTER II.--APPROACHES AND ROADS.
Approach from Achnasheen--From Loch Carron--From Loch
Torridon--From Gruinard--By steamer--By boat from
Ullapool--On foot--Main road maintained by the
county--Private roads--Loch Maree a highway 299
CHAPTER III.--ACHNASHEEN TO KENLOCHEWE.
Dingwall and Skye railway--The Gairloch mail-car--Natural
terraces like railway embankments--Loch Rosque--Remains of
ancient ironworks--The Clach an t' Shagart at Bad a
Mhanaich--Luibmhor in Gairloch--View of Scuir
Mhullin--Persistent inquirer--Hill resembling a
profile--Glen Dochartie--View of Loch
Maree--Trysting-place--More old ironworks--View of Beinn
Eay--Kenlochewe--Hugh Miller on this name--Kenlochewe
village and hotel--Culinellan churchyard--The Cnoc a
Chrochadair--Ath nan ceann--Two routes to Gairloch 301
CHAPTER IV.--KENLOCHEWE TO TALLADALE.
Tagan farm--Glas Leitire woods--Ru Nohar--Umbrella-like
firs--Her Majesty's description of the road--Glen
Grudidh--Old fir trees--Eilean Grudidh--Wild stretch of road
described by Her Majesty--Hamlet of Talladale--The Loch
Maree Hotel--Accommodation--Angling--Visit of Her
Majesty--Commemorative Gaelic inscription on a
boulder--English translation 305
CHAPTER V.--TALLADALE TO THE GAIRLOCH HOTEL.
Road through woods--The Victoria Falls--Garavaig
ironworks--Slatadale farm--Old road to west of Craig
Tollie--View of the islands of Loch Maree--Feur loch--Loch
Bad na Sgalaig--Kerry falls--Kerry bridge--Her Majesty's
interview with Lews' people here--Kerrysdale House--Resort
of fairies--Charleston--Flowerdale House--Port na heile--The
Gairloch--Established church--The Leabaidh na Ba
Bàine--Gairloch churchyard--Old ironworks--Monument to John
Mackenzie of the "Beauties"--The Crasg--The Cnoc a
Croiche--The Gairloch Hotel--Accommodation and
arrangement--Sea-bathing--Boating--Angling--Fine view 308
CHAPTER VI.--THE GAIRLOCH HOTEL TO POOLEWE.
Achtercairn--Views of Strath and the hills of Skye--Deep
gorge--Geikie on geology of a curious hill--The
Shoe-stone--Funeral heaps--Lochan nan Airm--The Glen--Craig
Bhadain an Aisc--Blar na Fala--Loch Tollie--Its
crannog--Surrounding hills--Distant views--Old road--View of
Loch Maree--Beinn Aridh Charr--Spidean Moirich--Croft
Brae--Hamlet of Croft--Ceann a Chro, or Cruive End--The
Still--The Hill of evil counsel--The Trossachs of Loch
Maree--Poolewe village--The church--The inn--Pool
House--Other houses--Londubh--The Inverewe burial-ground 312
CHAPTER VII.--POOLEWE TO AULTBEA.
The pool--Srondubh--Inverewe House and gardens--Description
from the _Times_--Loch nan Dailthean--Tournaig--The Dowager
Lady Mackenzie's residence--Description of the garden from
the _Times_--Coile Aigeascaig--Mac Gille Riabhaich's
cave--Bleeding living cattle--Tournaig farm--Loch
Tournaig--Dunan--The road ascends--Views--Drumchork--Aultbea--
Townships--Houses--Anchorage--Aultbea inn 318
CHAPTER VIII.--EXCURSIONS FROM KENLOCHEWE.
Drives--Expedition to Loch Torridon--Cromasaig--Fe
Leoid--Loch Clair--Maelrubha's seat--Carn Anthony--Coire
Cheud Cnoc--Precipices of Liathgach--Her Majesty's
remarks--Sguir Dubh--Lochan an Fheidh--Loch
Torridon--Village--Mr Darroch and Torridon House--Ploc of
Torridon--The heights of Kenlochewe--Glen Cruaidh
Choillie--Glen na Muic--Excursions on foot by the path on
the east side of Loch Maree--Excursions on Loch Maree 321
CHAPTER IX.--EXCURSIONS FROM TALLADALE.
Drives and walks--Expeditions on Loch Maree--The
steamer--Boats 326
CHAPTER X.--EXCURSIONS FROM GAIRLOCH.
The south side of Gairloch--Shieldaig--Leac nan
Saighead--Badachro--Loch Bad na h' Achlais--Port
Henderson--Opinan--Cave--South Erradale--Ancient
ironworks--Point--Views--North side of
Gairloch--Achtercairn--Strath--Carn Dearg--Little Sand
farm--Big Sand--Iron furnace--North Erradale--Wonderful
cave--Peterburn--Altgreshan--Melvaig--The Leac--Rudha
Reidh--Stac Buidhe--Other drives--Tour of Loch
Maree--Boating expeditions--Walks--Geikie on geological
features 327
CHAPTER XI.--EXCURSIONS FROM POOLEWE.
West side of Loch Ewe--Cliff House--Cuil an Scardain--Boor--
Views--Naast--Inverasdale--Brae--Midtown--Coast--Board
school--Firemore--Telegraph to Stornoway--Meallan na
Ghamhna--Caves--Loch a Druing woods--Cove--The village--The
cave--Natural arch--Fionn Loch excursion--Craig an
Fhithich--Inveran wood and farm--Inveran river--Loch
Kernsary--Innis a Bhaird--Kernsary farm--Fionn Loch--Fine
view--Other excursions by road--Walks--Craig Bhan 332
CHAPTER XII.--EXCURSIONS FROM AULTBEA.
To Mellon Charles--Cuilchonich--Bual na luib--Mellon
Charles--Mellon Udrigil--Laide--The Loch of the
Beast--Second Coast--Old church of Sand--Sandy
beach--Curious rocks--First Coast and Second Coast--Mill
Bay--Cadha Beag--Little Gruinard--Fisherfield--Meikle
Gruinard river--Excursions by water 337
CHAPTER XIII.--EXCURSION BY STEAMER ON LOCH MAREE.
Road to north end of Loch Maree--Opinions of the
scenery--Leading characteristics--Tollie pier--Fox
Point--Clearness of water--Sweetheart's
stepping-stones--Fhridh Dhorch--Ardlair--Cave of the king's
son--The minister's stone--Clach a Mhail--Uamh a
Mhail--Rudha Chailleach--The white horse--The Bull rock--The
cave of gold--Gold mining in
Scotland--Mountains--Letterewe--Limestone
quarry--Waterfall--Furnace--Innis
Ghlas--Coppachy--Regoilachy--Slioch--Cladh nan
Sasunnach--Fasagh--Tagan--Ru Nohar--Undercliffs of Meall a
Ghiubhais--Woods of Glas Leitire--View of Glen Grudidh--Aid
na h' Eigheamh--Isle Maree--Whittier's verses--Eilean
Suainne--Eilean Dubh na Sroine--Garbh Eilean--Eilean
Ruaridh--The planted island--Wild
fowl--Talladale--Slatadale--Doire--Craig Tollie--Bay of
Corree--Rudha Aird an Anail--Cave--Heather burning 340
CHAPTER XIV.--THE FIONN LOCH AND ITS DUBH LOCH,
BY WILLIAM JOLLY.
Name--Approaches--Loch Kernsary--View of Fionn
Loch--Mountains described--Visits to the loch--Lochanan
Beannoch--Beinn Aridh Charr--Black-throated divers--Beinn
Lair--Narrow glen--Old hill fort--Craig an Dubh
Loch--Pegmatite--Dubh Loch--Thunder
shower--Islands--Birds--Marten cats 349
CHAPTER XV.--LOCH GRUINARD, BY WILLIAM JOLLY.
Loch Ewe--Mountain view--Aultbea--Moraines--Summer
Isles--Distant views--Old Chapel--Caves--Modern
Cave-dweller--Gruinard House--Gruinard river--Mountains of
Loch na Sheallag 355
CHAPTER XVI.--ANGLING IN SEA LOCHS.
Several classes of anglers--Outfit recommended--Two usual
modes of sea fishing--Trolling for lythe--Artificial
sand-eels--Handline fishing--Scalps--Fishes captured--Conger
eels--Large halibut--Large skate 359
CHAPTER XVII.--ANGLING IN LOCH MAREE.
Excessive fishing--Reserved water--Species of
fish--Char--Salmon--Sea-trout--Bull-trout--Finnocks--Property
in salmon and sea-trout--Large brown trout--Ferox not a
separate species--Variations in trout--So-called ferox not
worth eating--Gizzard trout 361
CHAPTER XVIII.--ANGLING IN FRESH-WATER LOCHS.
Permission required--Trout scarcer than formerly--Dr
Mackenzie accounts for this--The tarry sheep--Fionn
Loch--Angling deteriorated--Good day's angling--The Dubh
loch--Three trout at a cast--Bait fishing for trout--Loch
Kernsary--Char--Char and trout, and pink and white-fleshed
trout, indistinguishable to the taste--Burn fishing--Best
time for trout fishing--Eels--Pike--Their introduction
described by Dr Mackenzie--Re-introduced in Sir Kenneth's
time 363
CHAPTER XIX.--SALMON ANGLING.
Salmon rivers--The Ewe--Cruives--The old cruive used for
crossing the river--Roderick Campbell and an American
merchant drowned--The new cruive--Gradual diminution of
stock of salmon--Length of the Ewe--Pools on the east
side--Pools on the other side--Runs of salmon and
grilse--Kelts--Bull-trout--Sea-trout--Large salmon--Best
flies--Dr Mackenzie's anecdote of Sir Humphrey Davy--John
Bright--Odd incidents--Damaged fly--Successful fishing after
a friend--Hooking a fish after losing another--Was it a
rise?--Fish taking when line slack--Kelt caught
twice--Holding on for five hours--Angler compared to the
evil one--Water-bailiffs--John Glas--Sandy Urquhart--His
loquacity--Fishing on the Ewe--Tailing salmon--Spiked
gloves--Bags of salmon now and formerly--Singular mode of
fishing by Sir Hector--Charms of the Ewe--Other salmon
rivers in Gairloch 366
CHAPTER XX.--DEER FORESTS AND GROUSE SHOOTING.
The red deer--Free to roam--Antiquity of--Formerly
scarce--Meaning of "forested"--List of deer
forests--Estimated yield and stock--Stag season--A
"royal"--Best heads--Hinds--Deer-stalking--Great caution
required--Staghounds not much used now--Quotation from John
Taylor, the "Water-Poet"--Present system of letting deer
forests--Colonel Inge in Gairloch--Misconceptions with
regard to deer forests--Opinions of the Crofters
Commission--Depopulation not due to deer forests--Deer
forests not suitable for occupation by crofters--Loss of
mutton and wool insignificant--Depredations by deer on
crofters' crops easily remedied--Deterioration of pasture by
deer not proved--Demoralization of gillies not due to
forests--Summary of opinions--Substantial benefits conferred
by deer forests--Afford employment to a greater extent than
sheep farms--Recommendation by Commissioners--Grouse
shooting--Grouse not abundant--Disease infrequent--Late
birds--Mixed bags--Separate grouse shootings 372
LIST OF BOOKS AND MSS. QUOTED OR REFERRED TO 381
STATEMENT OF AUTHORITIES FOR TRADITIONS, &C., EMBODIED IN
THIS BOOK 383
TABLES.
I. Mountains of Gairloch 387
II. Distances 387
III. Population of Gairloch 390
IV. Ministers of the parish of Gairloch 390
V. Lairds of Gairloch 391
APPENDICES.
A. Genealogical Account of the MacRas, by Rev. John Macrae,
who died 1704 395
B. Tour in Scotland by Thomas Pennant in 1772 396
C. Old Statistical Account of Scotland, 1792 399
D. Dr MacCulloch's Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland,
1811 to 1821 400
E. New Statistical Account of Scotland, 1836 403
F. Records of the Presbytery of Dingwall 408
G. Records and Extracts relating to Sir George Hay and the
Manufacture of Iron 412
H. Addenda on St Maelrubha, and Ecclesiastical History 415
Glossary of Gaelic Names and Words.
The pronunciation is given approximately in parentheses. In many cases
no combination of letters pronounced in English fashion can accurately
represent the Gaelic pronunciation.
The pronunciation of _ch_ is almost the same in Gaelic as in German.
Sometimes the _ch_ is best rendered as an aspirate only, the _c_ being
treated as if silent.
The letter _c_, unless followed by _h_, is always pronounced in Gaelic
like the English _k_, a letter not found in Gaelic.
The Gaelic pronunciation of the letters _b_, _d_, and _g_ is soft, and
they are often sounded more as if they were _p_, _t_, and _k_.
In Ross-shire Gaelic _sr_ is pronounced as if it were _str_, and _rt_ as
if it were _rst_.
The consonant _d_ before the vowels _e_ and _i_, whether followed by
another vowel or not, is pronounced as if it were _j_.
The consonant _s_ before the vowels _i_ or _e_ is sounded as _sh_.
The consonant _l_ has a liquid double sound, unlike anything in English;
it may be approximated by lisping the vowel _u_ before and the letter
_y_ after the ordinary sound of the letter _l_.
The letter _h_ after the consonants _d_, _f_, _g_, _t_, and _s_, in
Ross-shire Gaelic, renders those consonants silent; _bh_ and _mh_ are
usually pronounced like _v_, a letter not found in the Gaelic alphabet.
Sometimes _adh_ seems to be pronounced very like _ag_.
The possessive case is frequently formed in Gaelic by the insertion of
the letter _h_ after the initial consonant, and of the letter _i_ after
the vowel in the first or second syllable.
The aspirate _h_ is often inserted between the definite article and a
noun beginning with a vowel. Sometimes the letter _t_ is similarly
inserted before a noun commencing with a consonant. These, and some
other changes, are made for the sake of euphony.
The vowel sounds can only be defined with difficulty. The attempts made
in this glossary are but imperfect. It may be stated that _ach_ is
generally pronounced _och_; _ao_ and _u_, as _oo_; _ea_, as _a_ in
"bake"; _a_, _e_, and _i_, usually as in French; _ei_, sometimes as _a_
in "bake," and sometimes as _i_ in "bin"; and _ai_ is sometimes almost
like _u_ in "dull," and sometimes like _a_ in "tan."
Anyone desiring to pronounce a Gaelic name or word correctly, should ask
a native to render it, and try to imitate him; even then, in some cases,
it will be impossible to be exactly right.
_A cheardach ruadh_ (ar charstock rooer), The red smithy.
_Ceardach_, a smithy; _ruadh_, red.
_A Mhaighdean_ (ar veytchen), The maiden. See _Maighdean_.
_Achagarbh_, properly spelt _Achadhgarbh_ (ach a garrav),
Rough field. _Ach_, a field; _garbh_, rough.
_Achagarve._ See _Achagarbh_.
_Achdistall_, or _Achdiestal_ (achjestel), Field of Diestal.
_Ach_, a field; _Diestal_, a Norse word, probably the name
of a rock.
_Achnasheen_ (achnasheen), Field of storms. _Ach_, or
_achadh_, a field; _sian_ (shee-on), means wind and rain
combined, _i.e._, a rainstorm. _Sian dubh_ (black storm) is
so-called in contradistinction to a snowstorm, which is
designated _cur is cathadh_. An old Kintail priest long ago
prophesied that this country would be brought to nought by
_Sian dubh_, and that the people would have to go away to
islands at the other side of the world.
_Achtercairn_, properly _Achadhacharn_ (achterkairn), Field
of the cairn. _Ach_, or achadh, a field; _carn_, a heap of
stones.
_Aigeascaig_ (aigaskaik). Name of place, meaning unknown.
Colonel Robertson says _Aigeas_ is a corruption of
_aiguisg_, by reason of the water. The termination _aig_
signifies a small bay; it was originally Danish.
_Aird_ (aird), a height, a promontory or headland.
_Aird na h' eigheamh_ (art na heyhugh), eight of calling.
_Aird_, a height; _eigh_, to call.
_Airdheslaig_ (artishlak). Supposed to be a Norse name.
_Aird_, a height; _heslaig_ may be for _h'aslaich_,
_aslaich_, to entreat; _aslachadh_, entreaty.
_Alastair Breac_ (allaster brake), Alexander the spotted.
_Alastair_, Alexander; _breac_, spotted, or more correctly
pock-marked. See _Breac_.
_Alastair Buidhe Mackay_, properly MacAoidh (allaster boo-ie
mackai), Yellow Alexander Mackay. _MacAoidh_ is pronounced
Macooie.
_Alastair Buidhe MacIamhair_ (allaster boo-ie makeemver),
Yellow-haired Alexander MacIver; pronounced MakEever.
_Alastair Liath_ (allaster leear), Grey-headed Alexander.
_Liath_, grey, grey-headed. It means light blue when not
applied to a human being.
_Alastair MacIain Mhic Earchair_ (allaster makeeanvic
erraquhar), Alexander, son of John, son of Farquhar.
_Earchair_ is incorrectly written for _Fhearchair_, the
possessive of _Farquhar_; _Fhearchair_ is pronounced
Erraquhar or Earchair.
_Alastair Mor an t' Sealgair_ (allaster more ant shollager),
Big Alexander the hunter. _Sealgair_, a hunter, a stalker,
literally a sneaker.
_Ali' Iain Ghlais_ (alian loss), Alexander [son] of Pale
John. From _Alie_ (short for _Alastair_), Alexander; _Iain_,
John; and _glas_, pale or sallow. _Glas_ means grey when not
applied to human beings.
_Alie Uistean_ (ally ooshtan), Alick Hugh. _Alie_, short for
Alexander. See _Uistean_.
_Allt a Choire Dhuibh Mhoir_ (arlta corrie oo-ie vore), The
burn of the great black corrie. _Allt_, a burn; _choire_,
possessive of _coire_, a corry; _dhuibh_, possessive of
_dubh_, black; _mhoir_, possessive of _mor_, great.
_Altgreshan_, properly _Alltgrisean_ (alt-grishan), Roan or
grizzly burn. _Allt_, a burn; _grisfhionn_ (grishan),
grizzly.
_Am port Leathach_ (am porsht layoch), The port at half
[tide]. _Leath_ is half.
_An Amilt_, or _An Amhuilt_ (ann amvilt). Name of a place;
means the stratagem.
_An Fhridh dhorch_ (an ree dorroch), the dark forest.
_Fridh_, forest; _dorch_, dark.
_An Groban._ See _Groban._
_An t' Eirthire Donn_. See _Eirthire Donn._
_Angus._ See _Aonghas._
_Aonghas_ (unnus), Angus, or Æneas, which last is nearer in
sound to the Gaelic.
_Applecross._ English name as now used. Colonel Robertson
says it is for the Gaelic _Abercroisean_, or
_Abhircroisean_, from _aber_, mouth, or confluence of;
_croisean_, of troubles; or perhaps _croisean_ was the name
of the little river.
_Ardlair_ (ardlair), The mare's height or headland. _Aird_,
a height; _lair_, a mare.
_Ath nan ceann_ (arnankown), Ford of the heads. _Ath_, a
ford; _ceann_, heads. Often written _Anagown_.
_Aultbea_, should be spelt _Alltbeithe_ (arltbay), Burn of
birches. _Allt_, a burn; _beath_, or _beith_, a birch.
_Bac an Leth-choin_ (bark an lechun), Shelf of the crossbred
dog. _Leth-choin_, a crossbred dog, a lurcher. _Bac_ is a
shelf or flat on the side or top of a hill; in this case the
name is popularly applied to the whole hill.
_Bac Dubh_ (bark dhoo), Black shelf. _Bac_, a shelf or flat
place among rocks or on a hill; _dubh_, black.
_Bad_ (bat), a clump, a grove.
_Bad a Chrotha_ (badachro). Full Gaelic spelling of
Badachro, which see.
_Bad a mhanaich_ (bat er vannich), Grove of the monk. See
_Bad_. _Mhanaich_, possessive of _manach_, a monk.
_Bad an t' Sluig_ (bat ant slook), Grove of the miry puddle.
_Bad_, a grove; _sluig_, possessive of _slug_, a miry
puddle.
_Badachro_ (badachro), Grove of the cruive. _Bad_, a grove;
_chro_, possessive of _cro_, a cruive, a fank.
_Badfearn_, should be _Badfearna_ (batfern), Alder grove.
_Fearn_, the alder tree. See _Bad_. The place has still a
clump of alders.
_Badluachrach_ (bat loocharar), Rushy clump. _Luachair_,
rushes.
_Baile na h' eaglais_ (bally-na-herkless), Town of the
church, or Kirkton. _Baile_, a town; _eaglais_, a church.
Compare _Ecclesia_.
_Ballymeon_ (bally-mey-on), properly spelt _Baile-meadhon_,
pronounced exactly the same. _Baile_, a town; _meadhon_,
middle. _Anglicè_, Middleton.
_Bard Mor an t' Slaggan_ (bart more ant slaggan), The great
or big bard of Slaggan, which see.
_Bard Sasunnach_ (bart Sassenach), English bard.
_Sasunnach_, English, i.e. not a Gaelic speaker.
_Bathais Bheinn_ (boorsh ven), Forehead mountain (very
descriptive). From _Beinn_, mountain, and _bathais_,
forehead; or perhaps it should be called _Baoisg Bheinn_
(boiskivin), the mountain of gleaming, because it catches
the first rays of the rising sun. This is also true of this
mountain.
_Beag_ (bek), little. It seems to appear as _bach_ in some
English names.
_Beallach Glasleathaid_ (baaloch glass laid), Pass of the
gray slope. _Beallach_, a pass; _glas_, pale; _leathaid_,
possessive of _leathad_, a slope.
_Beallach nan Brog_ (baaloch nam progue), Pass of the shoes.
_Brog_, a shoe.
_Beallach a Chomhla_ (baaloch a korvla), Pass of the door.
_Comhladh_, a door.
_Beinn Alligin_ (bin allikin), Jewel mountain. Properly
_Ailleagan_, a jewel, or darling, anything precious.
_Beinn a Chaisgean_ (bin a harshkin), Mountain of casgean;
which may be a corruption of _caisg_, Easter.
_Beinn Aridh Charr_ (bin arry har), The mountain of the
rough shieling. _Beinn_, a mountain; _aridh_, a shieling;
_charr_, a corruption of _garbh_, rough.
_Beinn a Chearcaill_ (bin a herkill). Mountain of the hoop.
_Cearcall_, a hoop. Descriptive of bands or lines of
stratification encircling this hill.
_Beinn a Mhuinidh_ (bin ar voonie), Mountain of the
"Pisvache."
_Beinn an Eoin_ (bin-in-eeōn), The mountain of the bird.
_Beinn_, a mountain; _eoin_, possessive of _eun_, a bird.
The bird in this case is the ptarmigan.
_Beinn Bheag_ (bin vek), Little mountain. _Beag_, little.
_Beinn Bhreac_ (bin y vraick), Spotted mountain. _Breac_,
spotted.
_Beinn Damph_, properly _Beinn Damh_ (bin damff), Mountain
of the stag. _Damh_, a stag.
_Beinn Dearg_ (bin jarrak), Red mountain. _Beinn_; and
_Dearg_, red.
_Beinn Eighe_ (bin ay), File mountain. _Eighe_, a file. The
topmost ridge is jagged or serrated like a file.
_Beinn Lair_ (bin lar), Mountain of the mare. _Lair_, a
mare.
_Beinn Liathgach_ (bin learoch). This mountain should not be
called _Beinn Liathgach_, but _Liathgach_, which see.
_Beinn na h' Eaglais_ (binnaherkless), Mountain of the
church. _Beinn_, mountain; _eaglais_, church.
_Beinn nan Ramh_ (bin an rahv), Mountain of the oar. _Ramh_,
an oar.
_Beinn Slioch_ or _Sleugach_ (bin sleoch). Should be
_Slioch_ without _Beinn_. See _Slioch_.
_Beinn Tarsuinn_ (bin tarsing), Mountain across.
_Beinn Tarsuinn Chaol_ (bin tarsing chool), Narrow Beinn
Tarsuinn. _Caol_, narrow or slender.
_Bhantighearna Ruadh_ (vancherna rooar), Red lady.
_Bhantighearna_, literally she-lord.
_Bho Iutharn_, or _Bho Iuthrna_ (vo ewern), From hell.
_Bho_, from; _Iuthrna_, hell.
_Bidean clann Raonaild_ (peetyan clan ruynuld), Clan
Ranald's peak. _Bidean_, a peak.
_Blar na Fala_ (blar ner falla), Plain of the blood. _Blar_,
a plain or bog, or flat place; _fala_, possessive of _fuil_,
blood.
_Blar na Pairc_ (blar ner park), Battle of the park.
_Pairc_, possessive of _parc_, a park or field.
_Bonaid donn_ (boanat down), Brown bonnet. _Bonaid_, a
bonnet, a cap; _donn_, brown.
_Boor_ (bore). Either from _buradh_, a bursting forth of
blood; or from a word containing the root _boor_, meaning
"roaring," because stags used to roar here.
_Bothie_ (bothy, _othie_ pronounced as in frothy), a little
hut or hovel. _Both_, a hut. Compare English _booth_. The
_ie_ is an old Gaelic diminutive, often written _idh_.
_Braemore_, properly _Braighmor_ (bray more), Great summit
or hill. _Mor_, great; _braigh_, summit.
_Breac_ (brake), spotted, marked with smallpox (when applied
to human beings), a trout.
_Breacan an Fheilidh_ (brayken an aylie), the belted or
kilted plaid. _Breacan_, a tartan plaid; _fheilidh_,
possessive of _feileadh_, a kilt.
_Bruachaig_ (brooachak). Perhaps from _Bruach_, and
_achadh_, a field; _bruach_, a bank, border, edge, steep;
_aig_, means a small bay in old Danish.
_Buaile na luib_ (pool na loop), Fold of the bend. From
_buaile_, a fold; and _luib_, a bend or loop.
_Buidhe_ (boo-ie), yellow-haired, yellow.
_Cabar Feidh_ (kapper fay), deer's antler. _Cabar_, antler,
or a stick; _feiah_, possessive of _fiagh_, deer.
_Cabar Lar_ (kapper law), Turf parer. _Cabar_, a stick;
_lar_, a floor, the ground.
_Cadha Beag_ (kaar pek), Little pass in the rock. _Beag_,
little; _cadha_, a pass in a rock.
_Cailleach a Mhuillear_ (kaillyoch a vuillyear), The
miller's wife. _Cailleach_, an old woman; _muillear_,
miller.
_Cailleach Liath Rasaidh_ (kaillyoch leear raasa), Grey old
woman of Raasay. _Cailleach_, an old woman; _liath_, grey
(light blue when not applied to a human being).
_Callum a Ghlinne_ (kallum a glinnie), Malcolm of the glen.
_Callum_, Malcolm.
_Carn a Ghlinne_ (karn a glinnie), Cairn of the glen.
_Carn_, a cairn or heap of stones; _ghlinne_, possessive of
_gleann_, a glen.
_Carn Anthony_ (karn anthony), Cairn of Anthony. _Carn_, a
heap of stones.
_Carn Dearg_ (karn jarrak). Red cairn. _Carn_, a heap of
stones. See _Dearg_.
_Carn Liath_ (karn leear), Light blue cairn. _Carn_, a heap
of stones; _liath_, light blue.
_Cas chrom_ (kas-rhoum), foot plough; literally crooked
foot, from _cas_, a foot; and _crom_, crooked.
_Cathair mhor_ (kaar more). Big seat, _i.e._ Fairies' seat.
See _Kerrysdale_.
_Ceann a Chro_ (kayoun-a-chroe), End or head of the cruive.
_Ceann_, end or head; _cro_, a cruive, or fank.
_Ceann a chruinn_ (kayoun a chreinie), mast head, or tree
head or end. _Ceann_, a head, end; _cruinn_, possessive of
_crann_, a tree or mast.
_Ceann an t' sail_ (kayoun an tarl), end or head of the salt
water. _Ceann_, end or head; _sail_, salt water. Corrupted
further south into Kintail.
_Ceann loch iu_ (kayoun loch ew), head of Loch Ewe. _Ceann_,
a head.
_Ceardach ruadh_ (karstoch roo-er), Red smiddy. See _A
cheardach ruadh_.
_Ceilidh_ (kayley), social meetings. From _ceilidh_, to
visit.
_Ceistear crubach_ (kaister crupboch), lame catechist.
_Ceistear_, a catechist; _crubach_, lame.
_Cibear Mor_ (keeipber more), big shepherd. _Cibear_, a
shepherd; _mor_, great or big.
_Clach_ (klarch), a stone. Possessive, _Cloiche_. Compare
_clough_, found in some English names.
_Clach a Mhail_ (klarch ar varl), Stone of rent. _Clach_, a
stone; _Mal_, rent, tribute.
_Clach an t' Shagart_ (klarch an taggart), Stone of the
priest. _Clach_, a stone; _shagart_, possessive of _sagart_,
a priest.
_Clach nam Brog_ (klarch nam progue), Shoe stone. _Clach_, a
stone; _brog_, a shoe.
_Clachan garbh_ (klachan garrav), Rough village. _Clachan_,
a village; literally stones; supposed to have originally
been a Druidical term. See _Garbh_.
_Cladh nan Sasunnach_ (klug nan sarsenach), Burial-place of
the English. _Cladh_, a burial-place; _Sasunnach_, English,
Saxon, not a Gaelic speaker.
_Claidheamh mor_ (klymore), a broadsword, a claymore.
_Claidheamh_, a sword; _mor_, great, here broad.
_Clais na leac_ (klarsh na lyck), Hollow of the flat stones
or flags. _Clais_, a furrow, a hollow between ridges or
hills; _leac_, a flag.
_Claonadh_ (kluanar), slopes. Compare _inclining_.
_Clann Eachainn_ (klan erchen), offspring of Hector.
_Clann_, offspring or descendants. See _Eachainn_.
_Claymore._ See _Claidheamh mor_.
_Cleireach_ (klearoch), literally clerk. Priests often
called so from their scholarship. The Priest island off the
Greenstone Point is called _Cleireach_ in Gaelic. Compare
_Clericus_.
_Cliabh moine_ (kleea moanyer), peat creel. _Cliabh_, creel;
_moine_, peats.
_Cliff_, or _Clive_ (Gaelic Clu). See _Meall na Cluibha_.
_Clu_ (kloo), a local name; now treated as synonymous with
English _cliff_. See _Meall na Cluibha_.
_Cnoc a chrochadair_ (kroka chrochater), Hangman's hill.
_Cnoc_, a hill, a hillock; _chrochadair_, possessive of
_crochadair_, a hangman.
_Cnoc a croiche_ (krok a chroich), Gallows hill. _Croich_, a
gallows.
_Cnoc na mi-chomhairle_ (krok na mee ho-airlie), Hillock of
evil counsel. _Cnoc_, a hillock; _mi_ (like _mis-_), evil,
_comhairle_, counsel. _Mi_ is also a negative prefix like
_un-_.
_Coigeach_ (ko-yoch), probably the "fifth portion" [of a
davach]. _Coig_, five.
_Coille Aigeascaig_ (kul yaikaskaik); Wood of Aigeascaig.
_Coille_, a wood; see _Aigeascaig_.
_Coinneach_ (kuinyoch), Kenneth. The progenitor of the
Mackenzies.
_Coinneach Mac Sheumais_ (kuinyoch mak eearmis), Kenneth the
son of James. _Coinneach_, Kenneth; _Seumas_, James.
_Coinneachadh Beag_ (koonyochor bek), Little meeting-place.
_Coinneachadh_, meeting-place; _beag_, little.
_Coire an Easain_ (corrie an easan), Corrie of the little
waterfall. _Easan_, a little waterfall.
_Coire Cheud Cnoc_ (corrie hehud crok), Corrie of a hundred
hillocks. _Coire_, a corrie; _ceud_, hundred; _cnoc_, a
hillock.
_Coire Cheud Creagh_ (corrie hehud krayar), Corrie of a
hundred spoils. _Coire_, corrie; _ceud_, a hundred;
_creagh_, spoils. Name erroneously given by some to the
Corrie of a hundred hillocks. See last name.
_Coire Dubh Mor_ (corrie dhoo more), Great black corrie (or
dell).
_Coire Mhic Cromail_ (corrie vic krommle), The corrie of the
son of Cromail. _Mhic_, of the son of; _Cromail_, an old
name, meaning unknown.
_Coire nan Cuilean_ (corrie nan coollin), Corrie of the
cubs. _Cuilean_, a cub, a pup.
_Coppachy_, properly _Copachaidh_ (koppachie), Foam field.
_Cop_, foam; _achadh_, a field.
_Corcur_ (korker), red, crimson.
_Cota gearr_ (koita gaerr), short coat. _Cota_, a coat;
_gearr_, short.
_Co-thional_ (ko-yearnal), gathering together. _Comh_, or
_co_, fellowship (compare _company_); _tional_, gathering.
_Cove._ English name altered from cave. The Gaelic name of
the place is really _An Uamhaidh_ (nouahvie), or the place
of caves, from _uamh_, a cave. But it is more properly
called _An Uamh Mhor_, or the great cave, a name descriptive
of the cave still used as a place of worship.
_Cradh Gheadh_ (crargeear), Shieldrake. _Geag_, a goose.
_Craig_ (kraik), a crag or rock; properly spelt _creig_, or
_creag_.
_Craig a Chait_ (kraig a hart), Rock of the cat. _Chait_,
possessive of _cat_, which is the same in Gaelic as in
English, but was originally applied only to the wild cat.
_Craig an Dubh Loch_ (kraigan dhoo-loch), Rock of the black
loch.
_Craig an Fhithich_ (kraig an eech), Crag of the raven.
_Fhithich_, possessive of _fitheach_, a raven.
_Craig an Fhithich Mhor_ (kraig an eech vore), Big crag of
the raven.
_Craig an t' Shabhail_ (kraig an towl), Rock of the barn.
_Sabhal_, a barn.
_Craig Bhadain an Aisc_ (kraik vatn an ashk), Rock of the
clumps or groves of burial. _Badan_, clumps or groves;
_aisc_, obsolete word, meaning burial or interment, or
preparation for burial.
_Craig Bhan_ (kraig varn), White crag. _Ban_, white; and see
_Craig_.
_Craig Roy._ Properly _Craig Ruadh_, which see.
_Craig Ruadh_ (kraik roo-er), Red crag. See _Craig_ and
_Ruadh_.
_Craig Thairbh_ (kraik-harve), Bull rock. _Tarbh_, a bull.
_Craig Tollie_ (kraig tollie), properly _Creag Thollie_
(kraig holly), Rock of Tollie. See _Tollie_.
_Crannag_ (crannog). A crannog, or insulated fortress,
usually constructed on piles in a loch; the same word as
_crannag_, a pulpit.
_Crasg_ (krask). Meaning uncertain, possibly something that
lies across. _Crasg_ is the top of a spade, or cross piece
of a crutch. _Crasgach_ is something that goes contrary.
_Creagan an Inver_ (kraigan an innyr), Little rock of the
mouth of the river. _Inver_, mouth of a river.
_Cromasaig_, properly spelt _Crom Fhasadh_ (krommasak),
Crooked hollow. _Crom_, crooked; _fhasadh_, possessive of
_fasadh_, a hollow.
_Crubach_ (kruboch), lame of a leg. Compare _cripple_.
_Cruitear_, or _Cruitire_ (kroo-iter), a musician, a harper.
_Cuairtear nan Gleann_ (kooairter nan gleyoun), Pilgrim of
the glens. _Cuairtear_, a pilgrim; _gleann_, glens.
_Cu-dubh_ (koo dhoo), black dog. _Cu_, a dog.
_Cuil an Scardain_ (kool an scarten), Corner of the screes.
_Cuil_, a corner, a nook; _sgardan_, screes. The name is
very descriptive.
_Cuilchonich_ (kulhoanie), Mossy corner. _Coinneach_, green
moss; _cuil_, a corner.
_Culinellan_, properly _Cul an eilean_ (koolineylen), Back
of the island. _Cul_, back of; _eilean_, an island.
_Cumha Thighearna Ghearrloch_ (koovtcheerna yairloch),
Lament of or for the laird of Gairloch. _Cumha_, lament. See
_Tighearna_.
_Dal Cruaidh_ (dal crewie), hard field or flat. _Dal_, a
flat field; _cruaidh_, hard.
_Darach_ (darroch), an oak.
_Dearg_ (jarrak), red, like a rose.
_Diabaig_ (teapik). Norse name, meaning unknown; possibly
connected with _Dia_, God; _aig_, a small bay, so that it
may mean the small bay of God. Perhaps this has reference to
religious rites imported from the neighbouring monastery of
Applecross. _Diabaig_ is spelt _Typack_ on the map of 1662.
_Doire_ (derry), a grove.
_Domhnull Dubh_ (donnullul dhoo), Black Donald. _Domhnull_,
Donald; _dubh_, black.
_Domhnull Gorm_ (donnullul gorrum), Blue Donald. _Gorm_,
blue.
_Domhnull Greannach_ (donnullul gruonnoch), Sour or
savage-looking Donald. _Greannach_ also means irascible.
_Domhnull M'Eaine Roy Vic Choinnich_, should be _Domhnull
Mac Iain Ruadh Mhic Choinnich_ (donald mak eean ruar vick
kuinyoch), Donald son of John Roy (red John) son of Kenneth.
_Mac_, son of; _Mhic_ (or _Vic_), possessive of _Mac_.
_Domhnull Mor_ (donnullul more), Big Donald. _Domhnull_,
Donald; _mor_, big.
_Domhnull Odhar MacIain Leith_ (donnullul our mak yan lay),
Sallow or dun Donald son of Iain Liath or grey-haired John.
_Odhar_ also means drab. _Leith_, possessive of _Liath_,
grey.
_Donald._ See _Domhnull Dubh, &c._ Donald is often written
in these pages instead of its Gaelic spelling.
_Donn_ (down), brown, bay, or sable. Compare _dun_.
_Donnachadh Mor na Tuaighe_ (donnochar mor na tew-ay), Big
Duncan of the axe. _Donnachadh_, Duncan; _mor_, big;
_tuagh_, an axe.
_Donnachadh na Fadach_ (dunochar na fardoch), Duncan Fadach.
_Donnachadh_, Duncan; _Fadach_, name of the farm he had in
Kintail before he came to Inveran.
_Druim a Chait_ (dream a-hart), Ridge of the cat. _Druim_, a
ridge; _chait_, possessive of cat.
_Druim Carn Neill_ (dream karneyal), Ridge of the cairn of
Neil. _Druim_, or _droim_, a ridge or keel.
_Drumchork_, properly _Druim a choirc_ (drum-a-hawk), Ridge
of corn, or oats. _Druim_, a ridge; _coirce_, oats, corn.
_Dubh_ (dhoo), black.
_Dubh Loch_ (dhoo-loch), Black loch.
_Dun_ (doon), a castle; _Dunan_ (doonan), a small castle.
_Dun Naast_ (doonarst), Castle of Naast. See _Naast_.
_Eachainn_ (erchen), Hector. Hector is considered the
English equivalent, though it is not a translation of this
Gaelic name.
_Eachainn Geal_ (erchen gayal), White Hector. See _Eachainn_
and _Geal_.
_Eachainn Ruadh_ (erchen roo-er), Hector Roy. Hector is
considered the English equivalent for _Eachainn_; and see
_Ruadh_.
_Eilean_ (eylan), an island, isle.
_Eileanach_ (eylanoch), Island of the field. _Eilean_, isle;
_ach_, or _achadh_, or _achaidh_, a field. Perhaps it would
be more accurately translated The place of islands.
_Eileandonain_ (eylan donnan), Island Donain. _Donain_, name
of a saint, probably short for _Donnachadh_, or Duncan.
_Eilean a Mhor Righ_ (eylan a vor ree), Island of the great
king. An erroneous suggestion of the origin of the name
Maree.
_Eilean Dubh na Sroine_ (eylan dhoo na stronyer), Black
island of the nose or promontory. _Dubh_, black; _sron_
(stron), a nose or promontory.
_Eilean Grudidh_ (eylan gruydgie), Island Grudie. See
_Eilean_ and _Grudidh_.
_Eilean Horisdale_ (eylan horrisdel), properly _Eilean
Thorisdal_, the island of Thorsdale, a Norse name, which
see.
_Eilean Maree_ (eylan maree), Isle Maree. See _St
Maelrubha_.
_Eilean na h' Iolaire_ (eylan nar hewlar-yer), Island of the
eagle. _Iolaire_, an eagle.
_Eilean Ruaridh Beag_ (eylan rooarie vek), Little island of
Rorie or Roderick. _Beag_, little.
_Eilean Ruaridh Mor_ (eylan ruorie mor), Big island of
Rorie. _Mor_, big.
_Eilean Suainne_ (eylan soo-in), Everlasting isle.
_Suainne_, everlasting.
_Eirthire Donn_ (erriyer down), Brown shore. _Eirthira_,
shore; _donn_, brown.
_Erradale_ (erradale). Norse; probably from _earr_, a
boundary, the edge of.
_Ewan McGabhar_, properly _Eoghan Mac Gabhar_ (ewen mak
gower), Ewan son of the goat. _Gabhar_, a she-goat.
_Ewe_ (ew). May be a corruption from _uisge_ (usque), water.
Compare similar Welsh root _gwy_, water, as in Wye.
_Faidhir Mor_ (fire more), Great market. _Faidhir_, a fair
or market; _mor_, great or big.
_Failte Uilleam Dhuibh_ (falt yllyam oo-ey), Black William's
salute. _Failte_, a salute; _Uilleam_, William; _dhuibh_,
possessive of _dubh_, black.
_Fannich_, properly _Fanaich_ (fannich). Meaning unknown.
_Faoileag_ (fewlak), a sea-gull, name for a dog.
_Farquhar_ (properly _Fearchar_) _Buidhe_ (farkar boo-ie),
Yellow-haired Farquhar. See _Buidhe_.
_Fasagh_ (fassoch). From _Fasadh_ (pronounced fassoch),
meaning a hollow.
_Fe Leoid_, properly _Feith Leoid_ (fay lee-oade), The bog
of Leod (Loud). _Feith_, a bog; _Leoid_, possessive of
_Leod_, a Norse Christian name.
_Feachaisgean_, properly _Feith Chaisgean_ (fay harshkin),
Bog of Casgean. See _Beinn a Chaisgean_.
_Feadag-chuirn_ (fettak hee-oorn), Cairn plover. Gaelic name
of the dotteril. _Feadag_, a plover; _chuirn_, possessive of
_carn_, a cairn.
_Fear_, _Feur_, _Feir_, or _Fiar loch_ (fear loch), sedgy
loch. _Feur_, possessive _feoir_ (feyoar), sedge, reedy
grass.
_Fear Shieldaig_ (fear shieldak), The goodman of Shieldaig.
_Fear_ means a man, a goodman.
_Fedan Mor_ (fettan more), Big gullie. _Fead_ (fet), a
whistle; _feadan_, a little whistle or whistling thing
(applied to a gully because the wind whistles through it).
_Feadag_, the feminine diminutive of _fead_, is the name
given to the golden plover on account of its piping.
_Feileadh-beag_ (faylabek), philabeg, or kilt; literally
little kilt, _i.e._ the kilt made up separately as
distinguished from the _Breacan an Fheilidh_, the belted or
kilted plaid.
_Feill Iudha_ (fail you-her), Ewe market. _Feill_, a market;
_Iudha_, possessive of _Iu_, Ewe.
_Feir loch._ See _Fear loch_.
_Feith an Leothaid._ Same as _Fe-Leoid_, which see. This is
the more correct spelling.
_Feith Mhic Iain Dhuibh_ (fay vik an ooie), The bog of Black
John's son. _Feith_, a bog. See _Mac Iain Dhuibh_.
_Feithean Mor_, properly _Na feithean mor_ (fain more), The
great morasses. _Feith_ (pl. _feithean_), a morass, a bog.
_Feur loch._ See _Fear loch_.
_Fiaclachan_ (feearclochon), little toothed things.
Diminutive of _fiaclach_, toothed or jagged, _i.e._ the
little jagged rock; very descriptive.
_Fiar loch._ See _Fear loch_.
_Fionn Loch_ (fee-un-loch), Fingal's loch, or The white
loch. It is called Loch Finn on the map of 1662. _Fionn_
means white, pale, or wan. It is said the Fingalians were
called the white men in contradistinction to the Dugals or
black men.
_Fionnla Dubh MacGillechriosd_ (feeounla dhoo mak gillie
chree-est), Black Finlay, son of the servant of Christ. See
_MacGillechriosd_.
_Fionnla Dubh na Saighead_ (feeounla dhoo na side), Black
Finlay of the arrow. _Saighead_, an arrow.
_Fionnla Liath_ (feeounla leear), Grey Finlay. _Liath_,
grey.
_Firemore._ See _Faidhir mor_.
_Foura_ (foora), an island at the mouth of Loch Ewe. The
name includes the Norwegian suffix "a," meaning an island.
_Fuar_ (four) is Gaelic for cold.
_Fraoch-eilean_ (frooch-eylan), Heather isle. _Fraoch_,
heather.
_Fuirneis_ (furniss), Furnace. This name was most likely
originated here by iron-workers from Furness in Lancashire.
Furness, according to Rev. Isaac Taylor, may be Fireness,
the "fire isle," or "Fore-ness." Ness is Norse for a nose or
headland.
_Gael_ (gale), properly _Gaidheal_ (gai-al), a Highlander, a
Gael.
_Gaelic_ (gallik), properly _Gaidhealach_ (gai-alloch),
Highland.
_Gairloch_ (garloch), Short loch. Originally, and more
correctly, spelt _Gearrloch_ or _Gerloch_. _Gearr_, short.
It is always spelt _Gearrloch_ in Gaelic.
_Garadh Iaruinn_ (gaarogh eerun), Iron dyke. _Garradh_, a
dyke, a fence wall; _iaruinn_, iron.
_Garavaig_, properly _Garbhaig_ (garavaik), name of a small
river or burn. The termination "aig" is said to be old
Danish, and means a small bay, but the prefix is probably
from _garbh_, rough.
_Garbh_ (garav, or garve), rough.
_Garbh Choire_ (garav chorrie), Rough corrie.
_Garbh eilean_ (garaveylan), Rough island. _Garbh_, rough.
_Geal_ (gayal), white, bright.
_Gille_ (gillie), a lad, a young man, a gillie, a servant.
_Gille Buidhe_ (gillie boo-ie), Yellow, or yellow-haired
gillie. See _Gille_.
_Gille Cailean Mor_ (gilly callain more), The lad big Colin.
See separate words.
_Gille Dubh_ (gillie dhoo), Black, or black-haired lad.
_Gille Riabhach_ (gillie ree-oach), Brindled lad.
_Riabhach_, brindled.
_Gillean_ (gillyon), lads. Plural of _Gille_, which see.
_Gillean an t' Sealgair_ (gillyon ant shallager), the
hunter's lads. _Gillean_, lads, or young men; _sealgair_, a
hunter.
_Gillespic_ (gill-yespik), servant of the bishop. _Gille_,
servant; _easbuig_ (espik), bishop. Compare _Episcopus_.
_Glac Mhic Iain Dhuibh_ (glark vik an oo-ie), Hollow or dell
of the son of Black John. _Glac_, a hollow or dell; _Mhic_,
possessive of _Mac_, the son of; _dhuibh_, possessive of
_dubh_, black.
_Glac na Sguithar_ (glark nar skither), Hollow of Sguithar.
An old name; meaning now lost.
_Glas_ (glosh), grey. When applied to a man it means that he
is pale or sallow, never grey-haired.
_Glas eilean_ (glosh-eylan), Grey island. _Glas_, grey;
_eilean_, an island.
_Glas Leitire_ (glosh laytcher), Grey slope. See _Glas_ and
_Leitir_.
_Glen_, properly _Gleann_ (glen or gloun), a valley, a dale.
_Glen a Bianasdail_ (gloun ar beeanarstle), Glen of skin
field or dale, or _thal_. _Bian_, a wild animal's skin.
_Glen Cruaidh Choillie_ (glen or gloun cruchollie). May
perhaps be the hardwood glen. _Cruid_, hard; _coille_, wood.
_Glen Dochartie_, properly _Gleann Dochartidh_ (gloun
dochartie). _Dochart_, or _Dochartie_, is believed to have
been the name of a man.
_Glen na Muic_ (gloun na mook). _Muic_, possessive of _muc_,
a pig.
_Gobha dubh an uisge_ (gow dhoo an uisk), Blacksmith of the
water. _Gobha_, a smith; _dubh_, black; _uisge_, water.
_Gorm_ (gorrum), blue.
_Groban_ (groben). Probably a grooved rock, from _grobadh_,
to groove.
_Grudidh_, more correctly _Gruididh_ (gruydyie). Possibly
from _gruid_, dregs; because the dregs and sediment of
several burns drain into the Grudidh river.
_Gruinard_, in Gaelic _Gruinaird_ (grinyard). Meaning
unknown; may be from _grian_, the sun, and _aird_, a height.
It used to be sometimes spelt _Greinord_; may be Norse.
_Hector Roy._ English rendering of _Eachainn Ruadh_, which
see. No Gaelic word begins with _H_.
_Heglis Gherloch_, for _Eaglais Ghearrloch_ (erkless
yairloch), Church of Gairloch. _Eaglais_, a church.
_Heglis Loch Ew_, for _Eaglais Loch Iu_ (erkless loch ew),
Church of Loch Ewe.
_Horisdale._ See _Eilean Horisdale_.
_Iain Buidhe_ (eean boo-ie), Yellow, or yellow-haired John.
_Iain_, John. See _Buidhe_.
_Iain Buidhe Taillear_ (eean boo-ie tyler), Yellow-haired
John the tailor. _Taillear_, a tailor.
_Iain Caol_ (eean cool), Slender John. _Caol_, slender.
_Iain Dall_ (eean toul), Blind John. _Dall_, blind.
_Iain Dubh Mac Ruaridh_ (eean dhoo mak rooarie), Black John,
son of Rorie or Roderick. See separate words.
_Iain Geal Donn_ (eean gel town), Whitey-brown John. _Geal_,
white; _Donn_, brown.
_Iain Gearr_ (eean garr), Short John. _Gearr_, short.
_Iain Gearr Mac Mhurchaidh Mhic Iain_ (eean garr mak
muroochie vic yan), Short John, son of Murdo, son of John.
_Iain Glassich_ (eean glassoch), John of [Strath] Glass.
_Iain Liath_ (eean leear), Grey John. _Liath_, grey.
_Iain MacAllan Mhic Ruaridh_ (eean mak allan vik rooarie),
John, son of Allan, son of Rorie. See separate words.
_Iain Mac Coinnich Mhic Eachainn_ (eean mak kunyich vik
erchen), John, son of Kenneth, son of Hector.
_Iain Mac Eachainn Chaoil_ (eean mak erchen chooil), John,
son of slender Hector. _Chaoil_, possessive of _caol_,
slender.
_Iain Mac Ghille Challum_ (eean mak illie challum), John,
son of the lad Malcolm. See _Mac Ghille Challum_.
_Iain Mac Iain Uidhir_ (eean mak an eer), John, the son of
dun John. _Uidhir_ is the possessive of _odhar_, dun.
_Iain Mor am Post_ (eean more am post, pronounced like
cost), Big John the post.
_Iain Odhar Mac Iain Leith_ (eean our mak an lay), Dun John,
son of Grey John. _Odhar_, dun; _liath_, grey.
_Iain Ruadh_ (eean ruor, or ruag), John Roy, or Red John.
_Innis a Bhaird_ (ish y vard), Oasis (or "clearing") of the
bard. _Innis_, an island, or green oasis in a brown heathery
region; _bhaird_, possessive of _bard_.
_Innis Ghlas_ (inch gloss), The grey oasis. See _Innis a
Bhaird_. _Glas_, grey.
_Inveran_, in Gaelic _Inbhiran_ (in youren). _Inbhiran_ is
the diminutive of _Inbhir_ (inver), an estuary, or mouth of.
Inveran therefore means the little estuary. It takes this
name from the small estuary formed where the little river
from Kernsary enters Loch Maree.
_Inverasdale_, should be spelt _Inbhirasdal_ (in-ur-astle),
Mouth of the river Asdaile. Called _Ashfidill_, _Aspedell_,
or _Absdill_ in old documents.
_Inverewe_, Anglicé for _Inbhiriu_ (in yer ew), The mouth of
the Ewe. _Inver_ (Gallice _Inbhir_), mouth of a river.
_Judha._ See _Feill Iudha_. There is no word beginning with
_J_ in Gaelic.
_Kenlochewe_ (kinloch ew). See _Ceann loch iu_. The letter
_k_ does not occur in true Gaelic.
_Kenneth._ English form of _Coinneach_, which see.
_Kernsary_, spelt in Gaelic _Cearnsair_. A corruption,
probably from _carn_, a cairn; _aridh_, a shieling.
_Kerry_, properly spelt _Cearridh_. Meaning unknown; may be
connected with _cearr_, left, or wrong.
_Kerrysdale._ A modern English name; in Gaelic it is called
_Cathair Bheag_, or the little seat or green knoll on which
the fairies used to sit. Compare similar word in Welsh, as
in _Cader Idris_. _Bheag_ is possessive of _beag_, little.
_Kintail._ See _Ceann an t' sail_.
_Laide_ (laide), a slope. From _leathad_ (pronounced
_laid_), a slope. The place is called in Gaelic _Leathad
Udrigil_, or The slope of Udrigil.
_Lasan_ (larsan), a slight passion, wrath, anger.
_Leabaidh na Ba Bàine_ (lyeppy na papann), Bed of the white
cow. _Leabaidh_, a bed; _ba_, possessive of _bo_, a cow;
_bàine_, possessive of _ban_, white.
_Leabhar na Feinne_ (leeoar na fainyie), Book of the
Fingalians.
_Leac nan Saighead_ (lake nen side), Flag or flat rock of
the arrow. _Leac_, a flat rock, a flag; _saighead_, an
arrow.
_Leacaidh_ (lyechy), Place of flags, or flat rocks.
_Leitir_ (laychter, letter), slope on a hill side,
declivity.
_Leth chreag_ (laychrig), Half rock. _Leth_, half; _chreag_,
possessive of _creag_, a rock. This name is applied to
several rocky hills in Gairloch; it seems to imply that
one-half of the rock has fallen away.
_Letterewe_ (letter ew), Slope of Ewe. See _Leitir_. This
name is properly _Leitir Iu_.
_Leum an Doill_ (layum an toul), Blind man's leap.
_Lews_ (looze). From _Leogheas_ (leoas), _i.e._, the lands
of Leod, the progenitor of the MacLeods of the Lews.
_Liathgach_ (leeroch), The light-blue mountain. _Liath_,
light blue. This name should not have _Beinn_ before it.
_Loch_ (loch), a lake, an arm of the sea. _Lochan_, a small
lake, a tarn.
_Loch a Bhaid Luachraich_ (loch a vat loocharar), Loch of
the clump of rushes. _Bad_, a clump; _luachair_, rushes.
_Loch a Bheallaich_ (loch a veealoch), Loch of the pass.
_Beallach_, a pass.
_Loch a Chroisg_ (loch ach roshk). Anglicé _Loch Rosque_.
_Chroisg_, possessive of _Crosg_, name of a place. Meaning
unknown; possibly connected with _Crasg_, which see. Another
suggestion is that _Crosg_ may mean the Cross, and that the
name was given by ecclesiastics who unquestionably lived
here.
_Loch a Druing_ (loch a tring), Loch of Druing. _Druing_ is
probably a Norse word. It occurs as _Druingag_ in _Tobar
Druingag_, The well of Druingag, which is at the south end
of Loch a Druing.
_Loch an Iasgair_ (loch an ee-esker), Loch of the fisherman.
_Iasgair_, a fisherman; but in this case it refers to the
nesting here of the osprey or fishing eagle.
_Loch Bad na Sgalaig_ (loch bat na skallak), Loch of the
servant's grove. _Bad_, a grove (or clump); _sgalag_, a
servant.
_Loch Bad na h' Achlais_ (loch pat 'n achlass), Loch of the
grove of the hollow. _Achlais_, a hollow, the armpit.
_Loch Bharanaichd_ (loch varranocht), Loch of the barony.
_Baranachd_, a barony.
_Loch Broom_ (loch broom). An English imitation of the
Gaelic name, which is _Loch Bhraoin_ (loch vruin). _Braon_
means a light shower, drops of rain, drizzle.
_Loch Clair_, properly _Clar_ (loch clar). Means anything
flat, as the head of a barrel, leaf of a table, the front or
plain piece of a kilt. The stone tables of the law are
called _clar_ in the Gaelic bible.
_Loch Coulin_ (loch koalin). Coulin (or Connlin) is from
_Connlach_, a Fingalian hero, who was buried on a promontory
in the loch. The site of his grave is still pointed out.
_Loch Fada_ (loch fatter), Long loch. _Fada_, long.
_Loch Fear_, _Feur_, _Feir_, or _Fiar_. See _Fear loch_.
_Loch Gharbhaig_ (loch garravaik), Loch of the Garavaig,
which see.
_Loch Maree._ See _St Maelrubha_.
_Loch Mhic 'ille Rhiabhaich_ (loch vik illie reeoach), Loch
of MacGille Riabhach, whom see.
_Loch na Beiste_ (loch na peyest), Loch of the beast.
_Beist_, a beast, a brute.
_Loch na h' Oidhche_ (loch na hayich), Loch of night.
_Oidhche_, night.
_Loch nan Dailthean_ (loch nan dullann), Loch of the
meadows. _Dail_, a field, a meadow.
_Loch Rosque._ See _Loch a Chroisg_.
_Loch Torr na h' Eiginn_ (loch torr na haykin), Loch of the
mound of violence. _Torr_, a mound; _eiginn_, violence.
_Lochan a' Neigh._ Should be _Lochan an Fheidh_, which see.
_Lochan an Fheidh_ (lochan a neay), Loch of the deer.
_Fheidh_, possessive of _fiadh_, deer.
_Lochan Cul na Cathrach_ (lochan cool na karroch), Tarn of
[or at] the back of the fairies' seat. _Cul_, back of;
_cathrach_, possessive of _cathair_, a seat, a word usually
applied to the fairies' seats.
_Lochan nan Airm_ (lochan nan arram), Loch of the arms.
_Airm_, possessive of _aram_ (or _armachd_), arms.
_Lochan nan Breac_, or _Lochan nan Breac Adhair_ (lochanan
brake aar), Lochan of the trout from the sky. _Adhar_, the
sky. When trout are found in a loch without inlet or outlet,
they are supposed to have fallen from the sky.
_Lochend_ (Dog Gaelic), End of the loch.
_Londubh_ (lonedhoo), Black bog. _Lon_, a bog; _dubh_,
black.
_Longa_ (longer). Norse name; the termination _a_ is an old
Norse suffix meaning an isle. _Long_ may be Norse equivalent
to the English _long_, or it may possibly be the Gaelic
_long_, a ship. In old maps it is called _Lunga_.
_Lonmor_ (lone more), Big bog. _Lon_ (lone), a bog; _mor_,
big.
_Luibmhor_ (loopmore), Great bend [or loop]. _Luib_, a bend.
_Lungard_ (lungard). An old name; meaning unknown.
_Mac_ (mak), Son of. Possessive _mhic_ (vik), of the son of.
_Mac a Ghille Riabhaich_ (mak illie ree-oach), Son of Gille
Riabhach. See _Gille Riabhach_.
_Mac Callum_ (makallum), Son of Malcolm.
_Mac Coinnich_ (mak kunnich), Son of Kenneth. _Mac_, son of;
_Coinnich_, possessive of _Coinneach_, which see.
_Mac Ghille Challum_ (mak illie Challum), The son of the lad
Malcolm. _Ghille_, possessive of _Gille_; _Challum_,
possessive of _Callum_, Malcolm.
_Mac Gilleandreis_ (mak gilloundris), Son of the servant of
[St] Andrew. _Gille_, a servant; _Aindrea_, or _Andreis_,
Andrew.
_Mac Gillechriosd_ (mak gillie chree-est), Son of the
servant of Christ. _Chriosd_, Christ. See _Gille_.
_Mac Iain Dhuibh_ (mak an ooie), Son of Black John. _Mac_,
son of; _dhuibh_, possessive of _dubh_, black.
_MacLean_ (mak laine). In Gaelic this name is _Mac'ill'ean_,
possibly for _Mac Ghille Iain_, meaning the son of the
servant of John, or St John.
_MacLennan_ (maklennan). In Gaelic the name is _Mac a
Leinnan_, from _leine_, a shirt, referring to the first
MacLennan having been the armour bearer who carried his
"shirt" of mail for Mackenzie, lord of Kintail.
_Mac Leod_ (makloud), the Son of Leod, progenitor of all the
MacLeods.
_Mac Mhic Cordaigh_ (mak vik orday), Son of the son of
Cordaigh.
_Mac Olamh Mhor_ (mak olar vor), Son of Olaf the Great.
_Olaf_, a Norse name.
_Macdonald_, The son of Donald. It is not used in this form
in Gaelic. The proper Gaelic equivalent is _Domhnullach_
(donnulloch); it also means, the son of Donald. _Mac
Dhomhnuill_ is, however, frequently used.
_MacRae_ (mak ray), Son of fortune. _Mac_, son of; _rath_,
fortune.
_Maighdean_ (maidchen), Maiden.
_Maighstir Sgoil_ (maishter skol), Schoolmaster.
_Maighstir_, a master; _sgoil_, a school.
_Mali chruinn donn_ (mallie cruntown), Round brown Molly.
_Mali_, Molly; _cruinn_, round; _donn_, brown.
_Maolmuire_ (melmur), Tonsured one of Mary. _Maol_, a
cropped head; _muire_, the virgin [Mary].
_Marbhrann_ (marvran), an elegy. _Marbh_, dead; _rann_,
verse.
_McKenzie_ or _Mackenzie_. Corrupted from _Mac Coinnich_,
which see.
_Meall_ (meoul), a hill; literally a lump, usually applied
to a lump of a hill. _Meallan_, a little hill.
_Meall a Deas_, (mella teyess), Hill of the south. _Deas_,
south.
_Meall a Ghuibhais_ (meyoul a huish), Hill of the fir.
_Guibhas_, a fir.
_Meall an Doire_ (meyoul an derry), Hill of the grove.
_Meall Aridh Mhic Craidh_ (meyoul arry vik creear), Hill of
the shieling of Criadh. _Aridh_, a shieling; _Criadh_, name
of a man, meaning unknown.
_Meall Aundrairidh_ (meyoul aurndrarey). Possibly meant for
hill of Andrew, or of Andrew's shieling; if the latter, the
termination would be from _aridh_, a shieling.
_Meall Lochan a Chleirich_ (meyoul lochan a chlearich), Hill
of the loch of the priest. _Cleireach_, a clerk. The priests
were sometimes called _cleireach_, from their scholarship.
_Meall na Cluibha_ (meyoul na clua), Hill of Clu (_Anglicè_
Cliff hill). _Clu_ may be connected with _cluain_, good
pastures.
_Meall na Glaice Daraich_ (meyoul na glarker darroch), Hill
of the oak dell. _Glac_, a dell; _darach_, oak.
_Meall nam Meallan_ (meyoul namellan), Hill of the hills.
_Meallan_, plural of _Meall_, hills.
_Meall Mheannidh_, or _Meadhonach_, more correctly the
latter (meyoul vahanny, or meyharnoch), The middle hill.
_Meall_, hill; _meadhonach_, intermediate.
_Meallan Chuaich_ (mellan chuaich), Little hill of the cup,
or quaich. Compare _quaff_.
_Meallan na Ghamhna_ (mellan a gowna), Stirk hill.
_Meallan_, a little hill, _gamhainn_, a stirk.
_Meallan Thearlaich_ (mellan harelich), Little hill of
Charles. _Tearlach_, Charles; _meallan_, diminutive of
_meall_. _Anglicè_, Mellon Charles.
_Mellon Charles._ See _Meallan Thearlaich_.
_Mellon Udrigil_ (mellon oodrigil), Hill of Udrigil, which
see.
_Melvaig_ (melvik). Probably Norse; or may be from _meal_
and _beag_, making _Mealbheag_ (meyoul vek), the little
hill. In Gaelic it is spelt _Mealabhaig_, which favours the
Norse origin. _Aig_, old Danish for a little bay. _Melvaig_
used to be spelt _Malefage_, _Mailfog_, _Melvag_.
_Midton_, for Middletown. An English word. See _Ballymeon_.
_Mioll._ Corruption of _Meall_.
_Moladh Mairi_ (molloch marrie), Praise of Mary. _Moladh_,
praise; _Mairi_, Mary.
_Mor_ (more, or mohr), great, or big.
_Mor Ban_ (moore barn), Fair Sarah. _Mor_, Sarah; _ban_,
white, fair.
_Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair_ (mulloch corrie vik
erraquhar), Summit of the corrie of Farquhar's son.
_Mulloch_, summit; _coire_, corrie; _Mhic_, of the son of;
_Fhearchair_, possessive of Farquhar.
_Murchadh Mac Mhurchaidh_ (muroochuch mak muroochie), Murdo,
son of Murdo. _Murchadh_, Murdo; possessive _Murchaidh_.
_Murchadh Riabhach na cuirce_ (muroochuch reeoach na kurke),
Brindled Murdo of the bowieknife. _Murchadh_, Murdo;
_riabhach_, brindled; _cuirce_, possessive of _corc_, a
knife like a bowieknife (a knife that does not shut).
_Murdo Mc Conill varchue vic Conill vic Allister._ Old
(almost phonetic) way of writing the Gaelic for "Murdo the
son of Donald Murdo, the son of Donald, the son of
Alastair." _Conill_ seems to represent _Dhomhnuill_ (the
initial "c" belongs to the preceding word), and _varchue_ is
for _Mhurchaidh_, the possessive cases respectively of
_Domhnuill_ and _Murchadh_. _Vic_, of course, is for _Mhic_,
of the son of.
_Naast_, or _Naust_ (narst). A Norse word. Fäste is Norse
for a fortress; its Gaelic form with the article would be
Näste. There is here a knowe by the sea called _Dun Naast_,
apparently including the Gaelic _Dun_, a castle.
_Ob Choir' I_ (ope corree), Bay of the island of the corrie,
or Island Corrie Bay. _Ob_, a bay; _choire_, possessive of
_coire_, a corrie; _i_, old Gaelic for an island. Iona is
still called "_I_" in Gaelic.
_Oban_ (open, or oben), a little bay.
_Og_ (ogue, pronounced as in rogue), young.
_Oighrig_ (eyrig). Woman's name; Euphemia is considered to
be the English equivalent.
_Openham._ Corrupted from _Opinan_, which see.
_Opinan_ (opinen), Little bays. Corrupted from _Obanan_,
plural of _Oban_, which see.
_Oran na Feannaige_ (oran na feounak), Song of the hoodie
crow. _Oran_, song; _feannag_, a hoodie crow, _i.e._ the
Royston or grey crow.
_Ormiscaig_ (ormscaik). A Norse name; its termination means
a small bay. The word may include _Ormr_, Norse for a
serpent. (See Rev. Isaac Taylor on Orme's Head.)
_Padruig Caogach_ (partrik kuogoch), Skew-eyed Peter.
_Caogach_, skew-eyed; _Padruig_, Peter, or Patrick.
_Philabeg._ See _Feileadh Beag_. _Philabeg_ is a lowland
form of the name of the kilt.
_Piobaire Ban_ (peepier ban), The fair piper. _Piobaire_, a
piper; _ban_, fair, white.
_Piobaire Dall_ (peepi-er toul), Blind piper. _Piobaire_, a
piper; _dall_, blind.
_Piobaireachd_ (peebyrocht), Pipe music. Usually applied to
a set piece in the form now commonly called a pibroch.
_Ploc_ (plok), a round mass.
_Ploc_ (plok) of Torridon. See _Ploc_.
_Ploc-ard_ (plokart), Height of the round mass. See _Ploc_
and _Aird_.
_Poll a Chuillin_ (poll a choolin), Pool of the hollies.
_Poll_, a pool; _cuilionn_, hollies.
_Poolewe_ (pool-ew). This name means the pool of the Ewe; in
Gaelic it is _Poll-iu_. _Poll_, a pool; _iu_, ewe.
_Port Henderson._ A modern name. The colloquial Gaelic name
of the place is _Portigill_ (porstigil). May be from _Port a
geal_, the white port.
_Port na h' Eille_ (port na hail), Port of the thong.
_Iall_, a thong, a leather strap; possessive _eille_.
_Port na Heile_ (port na hail). See _Port na h' Eille_.
_Pronadh na Mial_ (prone-a na meoul), Crushing the louse.
_Pronadh_, crushing; _mial_, louse.
_Raasay_, properly _Rasaidh_ (raaser). Norse name. May
perhaps include _rath_, an obsolete word for a round fort.
_Rathad Mor_ (rart more), High (great) road. _Rathad_, road;
_mor_, great.
_Regoilachy_ (regoalachie). From _fhrith_ (_ree_), a forest,
and _gobhlach_, forked. The termination is probably for
euphony, but may represent _achadh_, a field.
_Rob Donn_ (rob doun), Brown or dun Robert; the soubriquet
of the great Reay bard. _Rob_, Robert; _donn_, brown, or
dun.
_Rob Roy_, for _Rob Ruadh_ (rob rooer), Red Robert.
_Rona_ (rowna). Norse; probably seal island. _Ron_ is Gaelic
for a seal; _a_ is a Norse suffix meaning an island.
_Roy._ See _Ruadh_.
_Ru_, or _Rudha_ (roo, or rooah), a point, a promontory.
_Ru Nohar._ Should be _Rudha 'n Fhomhair_, which see.
_Ruadh_ (ru-er, or rooag), red, or auburn. Anglicé, _roy_.
_Ruadh Stac_ (rooer stak), Red stack, or steep rock. _Stac_,
a steep rock.
_Ruaridh an Torra_ (roo-arie-an-tor), Rorie of the tor, or
round smooth hill.
_Ruaridh Breac_ (roo-arie brake), Spotted (or pock-pitted)
Rorie, or Roderick. See _Breac_.
_Ruaridh Ceard_ (roo-arie kard), Rorie the tinker. _Ceard_,
a tinker.
_Ruaridh Donn_ (roo-arie doun), Brown or dun Rorie.
_Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod_ (roo-arie mak allan mak loud),
Rorie, son of Allan M'Leod.
_Rudha aird an anail_ (roo-arten annall), High point of
breathing. _Anail_, breathing; _aird_, high.
_Rudha Chailleach_ (roo chyleoch), Point of the old woman.
_Rudha_, a point; _cailleach_, an old woman.
_Rudha Mac Gille Aindreas_ (roo mak ill andres), Point of
the servant of [St] Andrew. See _Mac Gilleandreis_.
_Rudha mhadaidh ruaidh_ (roo vatter roo-ie), Fox point, or
point of the red dog. _Rudha_, a point; _madadh_, a dog;
_ruadh_, red.
_Rudha 'n Fhomhair_, or _Fhamhair_ (roo noher), The point of
the giant. _Fomhair_, a giant.
_Rudha na Cloiche uaine_ (roo na clor-choo-ownyer),
Greenstone point. _Cloiche_, possessive of _clach_, a stone;
_uaine_, green.
_Rudha Reidh_ (roo ray), Smooth point or headland. _Rudha_,
a point; _reidh_, level. The name is very descriptive of the
appearance of the headland as seen from the sea.
_Runrig._ A south Scotch or English word. In Gaelic it is
called _Mag maseach_ (mark mer sharch). _Mag_, a rig;
_maseach_, alternate.
_Ruymakilvandrich._ See _Rudha Mac Ghille Aindreas_.
_Sabhal Geal_ (sowl gayal), White barn. See separate words.
_Sail Mor_ (sal more, or sowl more), The great heel. _Sail_,
a heel. Descriptive of the shape of this spur of _Beinn
Eighe_.
_Saint Maelrubha_ (saint malruie). Maree is a corruption
from this saint's name.
_Sand_ (sand, or saunda). Name of a place by a sandy beach;
evidently Norse. The full name of the place called Big Sand
is _Sanda a chorran_, meaning "the sand of the shingly
spit."
_Sasunnach_ (sarsenach), Saxon, English, not a Gaelic
speaker. _Sasunnach mor_, the big Englishman.
_Scardroy._ See _Sgaird ruadh_.
_Scuir_, or _Sgorr_ (skoor), a peak or cliff.
_Scuir a Laocainn_ (scoor a lyooakin), Peak of the calf's
skin. _Laodh_, a calf; _gin_, abbreviation for _craiceann_
(crakin), a skin.
_Scuir a Mhuilin_ (skoor a voollin), Peak of the mill.
_Mhuilin_, possessive of _muileann_, a mill.
_Scuir na Feart_ (scoor na hairsht). Name of a peak; meaning
unknown.
_Seann Rudha_ (shoun roo), Old promontory. _Seann_, old;
_rudha_, promontory.
_Seann Seoc_ (shoun shok), Old Jock. _Seann_, old; _seoc_,
Jock or Jack.
_Seann Tighearna_ (shoun tcheerna), Old laird. _Seann_, old;
_tighearna_, laird, proprietor.
_Seannachaidh_ (shennachie), Reciter of old tales, recorder,
remembrancer.
_Seonaid Chrubach_ (shounat chruboch), Lame Jessie.
_Seonaid_, Jessie; _crubach_, lame.
_Sgaird ruadh_ (scart rooer), Red scree. _Sgaird_, a scree,
shingly slope.
_Sgalag_ (skallak), a servant, farm servant.
_Sgeir_, or _Skeir_ (skeer), a rock surrounded by the sea.
_Sgeir a Bhuic_ (skeir a vook), Island rock of the buck.
From _sgeir_, a rock surrounded by the sea, and _bhuic_,
possessive of _boc_, a buck.
_Sgeir an Fharaig_ (skeir an harrik), Island rock of the
surf. From _fairge_, surf, sea.
_Sgeir Bhoora_ (skeir voora), Island rock of Boor. From
_sgeir_, a rock surrounded by the sea, and _Bhoora_,
possessive of _Boor_.
_Sgorr_, or _Sgurr_ (skor, or skoor), a peak. It is often
written here as elsewhere _Scuir_, but the former words are
more correct.
_Sgorr Dubh_ (scorr dhoo), Black peak.
_Sgurr Ban_ (skoor barn), White peak. _Sgurr_, a peak;
_ban_, white.
_Shieldaig_ (shieldak). Probably a Norse name; meaning
unknown. _Aig_ is an old Danish suffix meaning a small bay.
_Shieldaig_ was formerly spelt _Syldage_, _Sildag_, and
_Shilkag_.
_Sian_, or _Seun_ (shee-un), a spell, charm, incantation.
_Siol Mhic Ghille Challum_ (sheeol vik illie challum), Seed
of Mac Gille Challum, whom see.
_Siol Tormod_ (sheeol tormot), Seed of Tormod.
_Siol Torquil_ (sheeol torquil), Seed of Torquil.
_Sitheanan Dubha_ (sheean-an dhooar), Black knowes, fairies'
hills. _Sithean_, a knowe; _dubh_, black.
_Skar_ (scar), a screen. Obsolete.
_Slaggan_, properly _Slagan_ (slagan). Diminutive of slag,
or lag, a hollow. This place is for identification called in
Gaelic _An slagan odhar_ (an slagan our), or The little dun
hollow.
_Slatadale_ (slay ter dle). Norse; or it might possibly be
connected with _slaitan_, fishing rods. In the old map of
1662 it is spelt _Slotadull_.
_Slioch_, or _Sleugach_ (slee-och), resembling a spear.
_Sleagh_, a spear. The mountain from some points of view is
like a broad spear head. The name should not have _Beinn_
before it.
_Slogan_ (sloggan), a war cry. Obsolete now.
_Smiorsair_ (smearesar). Name of a hamlet; probably from
_smior_, the marrow, the best; _aridh_, a shieling.
_Spidean Moirich_ (speetan moi-or-ich), Peak of Martha.
_Spidean_, a peak; _Moirich_, possessive of _Moireach_,
Martha.
_Sporan_ (sporran), a purse.
_Srondubh_ (strondhoo), Black nose or promontory. _Sron_
(stron), a nose or promontory.
_Sron a Choite_ (strunyer hote), Nose (or promontory) of the
coble. _Sron_ (stron), a nose or promontory; _choite_,
possessive of _coite_, a coble.
_Stac Buidhe_ (stack boo-ie), Yellow stack, _i.e._ steep
rock. _Stac_, a stack, _buidhe_, yellow.
_Stank house._ An English name; but _stank_ is from the
Gaelic _staing_, a ditch.
_Steall a Mhunidh_ (shteyole a vonie), Splash of the
Pisvache. A fine waterfall, resembling the _Pisvache_ of
European celebrity.
_Strath_, properly _Srath_ (strah), a broad valley.
_Strath Chromple_ (strath roumpil), Valley of the curved
opening. _Crom_, curved; _beul_, mouth or opening.
_Suarachan_ (shore-achen). Soubriquet of Big Duncan of the
Axe, being the diminutive of _Suarach_, insignificant;
referring to his not having been thought worthy of being
armed for the battle of Park.
_Suidheachan Fhinn_ (seeachan een), Fingal's seat.
_Suidheachan_, a turf seat; _Fhinn_, possessive of _Fionn_,
Fingal.
_Tagan_ (tahkan). Possibly Norse; may be from _tathaich_, a
resort.
_Talladale_ (tallardle). Probably Norse; may be from
_talla_, a hall, and the Norse _dahl_ or _dal_. In old
documents it is spelt _Alydyll_, _Allawdill_, and
_Telledill_. The two former spellings suggest that the name
was formerly spelt with "th," pronounced as a soft aspirate.
_Thorisdal_, Dale of the Norse god Thor. See _Eilean
Horisdale_.
_Tigh Dige_ (ty dgeegie), House of the ditch. _Tigh_, a
house; _dig_, a ditch.
_Tigh mo Sheanair_ (ty mer henner), House of my grandfather.
_Tigh_, a house; _mo_, my; _sheanair_, possessive of
_seanair_, grandfather.
_Tighearna Crubach_ (tcheerna krupboch), Lame laird.
_Tighearna Ruadh_ (tcheerna roer), Red or auburn-haired
laird or proprietor. _Tighearna_, laird; _ruadh_, red.
_Tighearna Storach_ (tcheerna storroch), Buck-toothed laird.
_Tighnafaolinn_ (ty na fualin). The sea-mews' home. _Tigh_,
a house, home; _faoileann_, a sea-gull.
_Tobar Mhoire_ (toppervorie) Well of the Virgin Mary, or of
Mourie. _Tobar_, a well; _Mhoire_, possessive of _Moire_,
Mary.
_Tobar nan ceann_ (topper nan keyoun), Fountain or well of
the heads. _Tobar_, a fountain, a well; _ceann_, a head.
_Tollie_, properly _Tollidh_ (tolly), diminutive of _Toll_,
a hole. All the _Tollies_ are in hollows. _Idh_ is a rare
diminutive, but is sometimes used even in the present day.
_Torasgian._ See _Tor-sgian_.
_Torr_ (torr), a mound or lump; generally applied to a round
hill. The name is common in Gairloch and the neighbourhood,
and seems specially applicable to the hummocks or domes of
gneiss, noted as so frequent in this locality by Professor
Geikie. The name _Cnoc_ (krock), a knoll, has a somewhat
similar meaning.
_Torran nan Eun_ (torranan eeon), Mounds of the birds.
_Torran_, mounds; _eun_, a bird.
_Torran nan tighearnan_ (torran nan tchee-ernan), Mounds of
the chieftains. _Torr_, a mound; _tighearn_, a chief,
literally superior of land.
_Torridon_ (torriden). Old name; perhaps Norse. Can it
possibly be connected with _torran_, mounds, or lumps, which
would be very descriptive? It is spelt _Torvedene_ in the
Sheriff's protocol of 1494.
_Tor-sgian_ (toroshkin), peat cutter. _Tor_, a lump;
_sgian_, a knife.
_Tournaig_, Gallice _Turnaig_ (toornak). A Norse name. The
suffix _aig_ means a small bay in old Danish.
_Truibhais_ (trewish), trews, a sort of trousers.
_Tulachan_ (toolachen), a sham calf. Compare Gaelic _tulg_,
to rock, or toss. The sham calf was moved to and fro to make
the cow think it was sucking.
_Tulchan._ See _Tulachan_.
_Tulloch Ard_ (tullochart), High knoll. _Tulloch_ from
_tulach_, a knoll; _ard_, high.
_Uamh_ (oo-av), a cave.
_Uamh a' Mhail_ (oo-av a varl), Cave of rent or tribute.
_Mhail_, possessive of _Mal_, rent or tribute.
_Uamh nam Freiceadain_ (ooie nam rekatan), Cave of the
guard. _Freiceadan_, a guard, watching.
_Uamh an Oir_ (ooav an or), Cave of gold. _Oir_, possessive
of _or_, gold.
_Uamh gu do roghiann_ (ooie gat der ooun), Cave for your
choice. _Gu_, to, or for; _do_, your; _roghiann_, choice.
_Uamh Mhic 'ille Rhiabhaich_ (ooie vick illie reeoach), The
cave of the son of the brindled gillie or lad. _Mhic_ (vik),
possessive of _Mac_, son of; _'ille_, for _ghille_,
possessive of _gille_. See _Mac Gille Riabhaich_.
_Udrigil_ (oodrigil). Probably a Norse name; meaning
unknown.
_Ullapool_ (oo-la-pull). An old name; probably from _uile_,
all, and _poll_, a pool; signifying that it is a pool large
enough for all.
_Uistean_ (ooshtan). A Gaelic Christian name; Hugh is
considered the English equivalent.
_Vic._ Popular spelling of _Mhic_, the possessive of _Mac_,
son of. There is no _v_ or _w_ in Gaelic.
INTRODUCTION.
Rathad mor a Ceann-loch-iu,
Rathad ur a Ghearloch;
Gabhaidh sinn an rathad mor
Olc na math le cach e.--_Gaelic Song._
The high road to Kenlochewe,
The new road to Gairloch;
Storm or sunshine, take with me
The high road to Gairloch.--_Free rendering._
Gairloch is a typical Highland parish on the west coast of Ross-shire.
Its length, from Loch Rosque to Rudha Reidh, is thirty miles, and its
width is fifteen miles, so that it is one of the most extensive parishes
in Great Britain.
The name "Gairloch" is composed of two Gaelic words, _gearr_ and _loch_.
_Gearr_ means "short"; and the sea-loch which gives its name to the
parish is appropriately called short, as compared with Loch Broom, Loch
Ewe, and other more deeply indented arms of the sea. The native spelling
and pronunciation of the name prove the derivation beyond all question.
There is a curious muddle in the old and new Statistical Accounts about
the origin of the name Gairloch. In the former (Appendix C) it is said
to have been taken from "a very small loch near the church and the house
of Flowerdale, and so close by the shore that the sea at high tides
covers it." In the New Statistical Account (Appendix E) "a hollow spot
of ground" is spoken of as "the Gairloch," and the writer states that
the natives allege that the parish takes its name from it. The
explanation is supplied by the story of Hector Roy and the three M'Leods
given in Part I., chap. ix. The place referred to as "a very small loch"
and "a hollow spot of ground," is now represented by a well, still
called "the Gairloch" from the reason given in that story, but it did
not originate the name of the parish.
* * * * *
The name Gairloch is used in four different senses both in the following
pages and among the inhabitants. It means,--
1. The sea-loch or bay of Gairloch.
2. The whole parish.
3. The place at the head of the sea-loch where the hotel,
&c., stand, more properly called Achdistall.
4. The original estate of the Mackenzie lairds of Gairloch.
These various meanings are a little confusing, but the context generally
makes clear what is intended.
* * * * *
Considerations of health, followed by growing appreciation of the charms
of Gairloch, have caused me to make my Highland home in this
out-of-the-world parish. Its romantic scenery and health-giving climate
are its most obvious attractions; but add to these its wonderful legends
and traditions, the eventful history of its dominant family, the story
of its old ironworks, the interesting peculiarities of its Highland
inhabitants, the distinction conferred upon it by the visit of Her
Majesty Queen Victoria, the great geological controversy about its
rocks, the sport its waters afford to the angler, the varied subjects it
displays to the artist, and the pregnant fields of research it yields to
the scientist, and you have a list of allurements it would be difficult
to beat elsewhere. Though its boundary line extends to within five miles
of the railway, Gairloch still preserves many of the characteristics of
old days, and these not only possess a peculiar fascination for most
people, but are also well fitted to arouse and nourish a spirit of
investigation.
* * * * *
The famous Loch Maree (with the small but romantic islet known as Isle
Maree) is surrounded by the finest scenery in the parish. Their
attractions bring annually some three thousand visitors to Gairloch. One
might have fancied that such an influx of people would have led to the
accumulation of a large and increasing stock of knowledge of this
Highland parish, but as a rule the visitors are here to-day and gone
to-morrow, and take no thorough interest in the country or its
inhabitants.
Some years ago I happened to travel by the railway from Inverness to
Achnasheen in the company of a pleasant party, comprising a gentleman
and three ladies, who were making a tour in the Highlands. They boasted
that, though their time had been limited to a very few days, they would
have seen the greater part of the Highlands before they returned home.
On the day I fell in with them their object was to see Loch Maree. To
accomplish this they had arranged by telegraph for a carriage and pair
to await the arrival of the train at Achnasheen. The day proved wet and
misty, and I saw them leave the railway station in a close carriage. I
followed soon after on the mail-car. A short delay took place at
Kenlochewe whilst the horses were changed. There I found my
fellow-travellers enjoying their lunch in the hotel. They told me that
although the day was too wet for them to drive down to the shore of the
loch, and too misty to admit of its being fully seen from a distance,
yet they were quite able to say that they had seen Loch Maree, for at
one point they had put their heads out of the windows of their carriage
during a brief cessation of the rain and had distinctly seen the water
of the loch! They were returning to Achnasheen as soon as they had
swallowed their lunch, to catch the train back to Inverness the same
afternoon.
These tourists, who thus professed to have "seen Loch Maree," were a
fair type of too many of those who rush through Gairloch, as if their
sole object were to cover the most ground in the shortest possible time,
and who thus fail to obtain any true perception of the belongings of the
country, even of the scenery.
There are first-rate hotels within the parish, and lodgings may
frequently be hired, or a furnished house taken. The hotels offer the
inducement of lower terms to those whose visits exceed the usually brief
period.
Impressions of scenery are fixed by repetition; insight into nature is
deepened by observation; and knowledge of a country is vastly more
valuable if it include some acquaintance with the population, their
characters, condition, and means of livelihood. Too many visitors
overlook their opportunities in these directions.
Some remarks are necessary with regard to the traditions of Gairloch,
contained mostly in Part I. In recent times there has been a tendency to
discredit all such traditions, and to treat them as symbolic or didactic
legends, or as localisations (with extra colouring) of myths common to
the heroic period of every country. The principal features of one or two
of the Gairloch traditions are certainly to be found in stories of other
parts of the Highlands, and occasionally, but rarely, a resemblance may
even be traced to the plot of some ancient European myth. On the other
hand, it is to be noted that the Highland bards, down to the present
time, have regularly transmitted their stories in precisely the same
language from one trained memory to another, so that even the very words
put into the mouths of the _dramatis personæ_ have been insisted upon in
every transmission. Another point to be noticed is, that except in two
instances the Gairloch traditions do not date further back than four
centuries. In the older legends referred to, visible evidences, such as
the tombstones in Isle Maree and the cave at Ardlair, may perhaps be
considered confirmatory. For my own part, I am disposed to accept all
the traditions as generally worthy of credence. Much interest in the
locality is gained by doing this, and certainly nothing is lost!
A difficulty the visitor to Gairloch always experiences is due to the
Gaelic names. The Glossary should help to overcome this obstacle. Not
only does it include the meanings of the Gaelic words, but it attempts
to indicate their pronunciations. I am bound to warn the reader that the
pronunciations stated are only approximate. There are sounds in the
Gaelic language which cannot be expressed by English tongues or to
English ears by any combinations of letters. Yet most of the
pronunciations stated are sufficiently near the truth to answer ordinary
purposes. I recommend the reader to refer to the Glossary at the
occurrence of each Gaelic name in the book, and those names and their
import will soon become familiar. The Gaelic sound of _ch_ is about the
same as that of the German _ch_; it does not occur in the English
language, but unless you can master it there is no use in your trying to
speak even the two leading names in this parish,--viz., Gairloch, and
Loch Maree. Whatever you do, pray avoid pronouncing _loch_ as if it were
_lock_. This is the most egregious error made by many southerners in
trying to speak the commonest Highland names.
In communicating to the public the information about Gairloch contained
in the following pages, I claim the right to offer a word or two of
counsel and entreaty.
I would submit that it is unfair, as well as discourteous, to interfere
with the rights of those who take deer forests or rent sheep farms.
Rambles on upland moors and mountain ascents are almost certain to
injure the sport or privileges of others. I am aware there is a strong
feeling that every one ought to have access to mountains. Whether this
be legalised by Parliament or not, I would appeal to the visitor here to
refrain from the illiberality and discourtesy of spoiling other people's
hardly-earned and well-paid-for privileges. There is plenty of room for
all. Why should unpleasant feelings be stirred up, and tourists as a
class be blamed for the intolerance of a few? All the mountains and
hills of Gairloch are haunts of the red deer or feeding-grounds of
sheep, and no ascents ought to be undertaken unless by due arrangement,
which cannot be expected in the deer-stalking season, and which, when
obtainable, should be made with the head-keeper of the ground.
There are some drawbacks to mountain ascents that may help the visitor
more willingly to forego them. How often the view from a summit is
entirely blotted out by clouds or mist, or marred by the distance being
lost in haze! How often the fine morning that induced the expedition is
followed by a stormy afternoon! To these must be added the frequent
injury to health caused by the unusual strain on the systems of persons
unaccustomed to mountaineering, and the possible risk of being lost in
mist. It is hoped that tourists will be content with the shorter climbs
recommended in Part IV. Artists tell us that landscapes seen from lower
elevations are more thoroughly picturesque than the bird's-eye views
from mountain tops.
Again, I entreat botanists and others looking for wild flowers and
plants to abstain from rooting up the rare or beautiful things they may
find, and from trespassing in places where their presence is obviously
not required. The mania for removing every fragment of an uncommon plant
has grown much of late years,--witness the extermination of the
edelweiss from some of its best known habitats on the Swiss Alps. Who
does not remember places whence our own rare holly-fern has within the
past few years been eradicated? A few years ago that comparatively
scarce fern the sea-spleenwort (_asplenium marinum_) was abundant within
three hundred yards of the Gairloch Hotel; now it is unknown there. A
gentleman fond of botany planted some uncommon ferns not natives of
Ross-shire in a wood in Gairloch parish; they were soon discovered by
tourists staying at a neighbouring hotel, who ruthlessly removed the
whole. Instances of this kind have brought the British tourist into
disrepute in many parts of the world.
It is in the spirit of these remarks that I beg to introduce the reader
to the charms of Gairloch and Loch Maree.
PART I.
RECORDS AND TRADITIONS OF GAIRLOCH.
CHAPTER PAGE
I. Early History 3
II. The Tragedy of Isle Maree 7
III. The Mackenzies of Kintail 11
IV. Ewan Mac Gabhar, the Son of the Goat 14
V. The MacRaes of Kintail and Gairloch 19
VI. The MacBeaths 21
VII. The M'Leods of Gairloch 24
VIII. The Macdonalds in Gairloch 27
IX. Hector Roy Mackenzie, First Laird of Gairloch 29
X. John Glassich Mackenzie and his Sons 36
XI. John Roy Mackenzie 38
XII. Expulsion of the M'Leods from Gairloch 43
XIII. Alastair Breac, and his Son and Grandson 49
XIV. The Baronets of Gairloch, and some other Gairloch
Mackenzies 53
XV. Gairloch Estates, and Old Names of Places 60
XVI. Ecclesiastical History of Gairloch 63
XVII. Ancient Gairloch Ironworks 72
XVIII. The Historic Ironworks of Loch Maree 75
XIX. The Iron Ores used in Gairloch 86
XX. Remains of Ironworks in the Parish of Gairloch 90
XXI. Antiquities 97
GAIRLOCH
Chapter I.
EARLY HISTORY.
The blessedness attributed to the nation without a history cannot be
assigned to the parish of Gairloch. Although her ancient history has
never been written, it is to be feared her inhabitants were far from
wholly blessed in the far off days of yore. The earlier annals of
Gairloch are indeed veiled in mists, almost as impenetrable as those
that often shroud her mountains. Amid the gloom there are faint glimpses
to be had of the wild natives of the district, of fierce warriors from
other lands, and of saintly Christian pioneers; but complete pictures of
the doings of those old times can be found only in the galleries of the
imagination. The same everlasting hills still tower over the same
straths, glens, and lochs; but the actors are changed, the play has
another plot, with incidents of a very different kind. In a region so
innocent of letters, so inaccessible to the scholar, it is easy to
account for the total absence of ancient records. The narratives of the
seannachies, or bards, handed down by oral tradition from generation to
generation, might have been expected to fill in the blank, yet it is
only in the stories of some few salient adventures that these traditions
have been preserved beyond the past four centuries.
Even imagination fails to carry us further back than the Picts or Celts
or Gaels, who are supposed to have been the aborigines of all the
British Isles. They were a wild warlike race,--wild from their rough
struggling state of existence, warlike in their constant attitude of
self-defence. Some have supposed that there were giants among them in
those days, and that these were the originals of the colossal heroes of
the Fingalian legends. The name of the Giant's Point (Ru Nohar) on Loch
Maree, and the discoveries in the neighbourhood of what are alleged to
be enormous graves, give some colour to the supposition. There are
slight traces of Fingalian legends still current in the parish. Thus the
hollow near the Gairloch Established Church, in which the Free Church
communion services are held, is said to have been scooped out by Fingal
for a bed where his white cow might calve. It is still called Leabaidh
na Ba Bàine, or the bed of the white cow. Then the large stones in Loch
Maree, in a line between the base of the Fox Point and the nearest part
of the opposite shore, are said to have been placed there by Fingal for
stepping-stones, to keep his feet dry when going this way to court
Malvina, who lived in the direction of Torridon. Only an enormous giant
could have stepped from stone to stone; they are to this day called the
sweetheart's stepping-stones. Again, there is a mound in a depression
near the summit of Beinn Tarsuinn, called Suidheachan Fhinn, or Fingal's
seat, where they say he used to sit and spy when hunting on the
mountains. These fragments are all we are told of Fingal's doings in
Gairloch.
Though we know nothing of their history, we can infer much regarding the
condition of the original Pictish inhabitants of Gairloch. That they
were numerous, we may judge from the several remains of Pictish brochs
or round houses to be seen in the parish. These are doubtless but
samples of numbers of others, still buried beneath moss and heather, or
long since obliterated by agricultural operations. Each broch was the
abode of several families, huddled together beneath its roof of skins.
Most of the primitive weapons or implements to be enumerated in the
chapter on the antiquities of Gairloch belonged to the Pictish natives
of the parish. Our eyes may see, our hands may grasp, the very
implements these Gairloch men formed and used possibly before the
Christian era; and as we look upon them we may readily conceive how
straitened were their owners' circumstances. Amongst the antiquities
some alleged Druidical remains will be mentioned. Whether these were
really Druidical or no, it is certain that the religion of this district
before Christianity took root was that of the Druids. The sacrifices of
bulls on Isle Maree, practised, as we shall see, so lately as 1678, were
unquestionably relics of the rites celebrated by the Druidical priests,
though they themselves had vanished a thousand years before.
When Agricola invaded Scotland in A.D. 81, the tribe of Picts who
inhabited Ross-shire was called the Cantæ. A punster might be excused
for remarking (and that truly), that in Gairloch at least the race is
still "canty," _i.e._ knowing. It is not probable that the Romans ever
reached this part of Ross-shire; the nearest evidence of their invasion
is some trace of their roads in Strathspey, a hundred miles from
Gairloch. It is very likely that Gairloch men helped their fellow Celts
in the battles with the Romans. Tacitus relates how the Highlanders at
that period made sacrifices before going to battle, and fought with
broadsword and targe. The country was then almost destitute of
agriculture, being mostly vast forests and morasses, teeming with wolves
and other wild beasts; the possessions of the people were herds of
cattle.
When the Romans abandoned Britain, about A.D. 446, the Picts were under
the sway of a king called Drust, the son of Erp, who is said to have
lived a hundred years, and to have fought a hundred battles. The Pictish
monarchy continued until A.D. 843, when Kenneth II. took Camelon, the
capital of the Picts; on this the kings of Scotland, and subsequently of
Great Britain, became at least the nominal rulers of the Highlands.
The introduction of Christianity brought a refining and civilising
element to the rough people of the North, but it was many centuries
before its influence became general. St Columba began his mission in
A.D. 563, and the ecclesiastical establishment at Iona was the result.
Local tradition says the little chapel at Sand of Udrigil, in Gairloch
parish, was built by St Columba, or one of his immediate followers. But
it was St Maelrubha who was the apostle of Gairloch and of the adjoining
parish of Applecross; he founded the church of Applecross A.D. 673, and
died there on 21st April A.D. 722. He appears to have made his Gairloch
home on Isle Maree, a site that suggests the necessity, at least at
first, of the Christian missionary having recourse to the protection
afforded by an insular position. The new teaching soon displaced the
Paganism of the Druids, though, in accordance with the policy of the
early Christian church, the sacrifices of bulls were permitted, as we
have seen, for a thousand years afterwards. The first church of Gairloch
was dedicated to St Maelrubha; it was probably not erected until many
years after his death. Tradition says that his cell on Isle Maree was
occupied for some generations by the successors of this holy man; one of
them is mentioned in the legend of the island given in the next chapter.
During the rule of the Pictish kings the Norwegian Vikings made
continual raids upon the Highlands, at first as independent pirates, but
later on as vassals of Harold Harfager, the first king of all Norway.
About the end of the ninth century the Norwegians became so powerful as
to be able to establish a separate and independent kingdom in Orkney and
the Western Isles. Parts of Ross-shire were frequently ravaged, and
often held, by them. In Gairloch they have left a number of footprints
in the names of places. Thus the Islands Longa and Foura exhibit the
Norwegian suffix _a_, meaning an island. The Vikings used to retire
during the winter months to small islands off the coast, where they laid
up their vessels. The names of these two Gairloch islands, according to
the Rev. Isaac Taylor, bear curious evidence to their having been the
winter quarters of Vikings. The tragic legend of Isle Maree, given in
the next chapter, is an episode in the career of one of these piratical
princes. A large Gairloch island is named Thorisdale, after the Norse
god Thor. Among other Norwegian names in Gairloch is "Sgeir," _i.e._ a
detached rock; it occurs in Sgeir Bhoora, Sgeir an Fharaig, &c. So also
the suffix _dale_ or _dal_ is Norwegian; it occurs in Thorisdale,
Talladale, Slatadale, Erradale, Inverasdale, &c. Naast is believed to be
a Norwegian name. Other Norse names are given in the Glossary.
It has been supposed that the Danes did not invade the west coast, but
an examination of Gairloch names shews that they were most likely here.
Some of the Vikings were Danes. Mr Taylor says that the termination
_aig_ signifies a small bay, and is Danish; it occurs in a number of
Gairloch names (_see the Glossary_). The Danes were driven out of
Scotland in 1040.
There can be no doubt that both Norwegians and Danes intermarried with
the people of Gairloch, and thus the native Pictish breed became a mixed
race. One can almost identify Norwegian and Danish types of face in
Gairloch to this day.
The dominion of the Norwegian monarchs over the Hebrides and some parts
of the mainland was broken by the defeat of Haco the aged king of
Norway, at the battle of Largs, on 3d October 1263. His successor
Magnus, in 1266, ceded the whole of the Scottish territory held by
Norway (except Orkney and Shetland) to the king of Scotland. An
Icelandic saga states that Ross-shire was part of the dominion of the
earls of Orkney under Norway, whilst another authority regards it as
part of Scotland. In all probability the wild Highlanders of Ross had
never entirely submitted to either king. Though the king of Norway at
this time abandoned all claim to Ross-shire, yet some tribes of
Norwegian descent long afterwards held Gairloch; they were the MacBeaths
and M'Leods, of whom more shortly.
The earls of Ross followed the Norwegians in the rule of the Northern
Highlands. They were of the ancient Celtic family of the O'Beolans, and
had been the Pictish maormors of Ross before the title of earl (_comes_)
took the place of the older Pictish designation. Gairloch, as a part of
North Argyle, was included by name in the Sheriffdom of Skye, erected in
1292 by King John Balliol. This is believed to be the first mention of
Gairloch in existing records. King Robert Bruce confirmed the possession
of Gairloch to the earls of Ross between 1306 and 1329. In 1366 Earl
William granted "to Paul M'Tyre and to his heirs by Mary of Grahame,
with remainder to the lawful heirs of Paul, the lands of Gerloch within
the parts of Argyle, for yearly payment of a penny of silver in name of
blench ferme in lieu of every other service except the forinse service
of the king when required." In 1372 King Robert II. confirmed the grant.
Paul M'Tyre is stated to have been a cousin of Earl William; we hear no
more of him.
Earl William left only a daughter, who married Walter Leslie. They had a
son, Alexander, who became Earl of Ross, and also a daughter, who
married Donald, Lord of the Isles. Earl Alexander married a daughter of
the Regent, Robert Duke of Albany. Their only child Euphemia died young
in 1406, after she had resigned her title to the son of the regent.
Donald, Lord of the Isles, by virtue of his marriage with the daughter
of Walter Leslie, laid claim to the earldom of Ross, in opposition to
the regent's son. After a prolonged strife the earldom of Ross was
forfeited, and annexed to the crown in 1476. During the unsettled period
which began with Donald's ambitious claim, Gairloch seems to have been
in a state of anarchy. Not only the MacBeaths and M'Leods struggled for
its possession, but the Macdonalds, as clansmen of the Lord of the
Isles, appear to have overrun the district.
Meanwhile the Mackenzies of Kintail had grown to be a great power in
Ross-shire, and being of the same original stock as the O'Beolan earls
of Ross, they had a better right to Gairloch than the other claimants,
all of whom in turn gave way to the victorious Mackenzies.
The legends and narratives which follow are placed as nearly as may be
in chronological order. They all belong to the period of the Mackenzies,
except that of the tragedy of Isle Maree, which forms our next chapter;
it occurred long before.
Chapter II.
THE TRAGEDY OF ISLE MAREE.
Isle Maree was as sweet a spot at the end of the ninth century as it is
now. A thick grove of tall trees crowded round its circular Druidical
enclosure. There were noble specimens of the indigenous oak, so
mysteriously connected with the Druidical worship; there was a dense
thicket of the smooth-leaved holly, the sacred tree brought here by St
Maelrubha himself, who, it would seem, intended it to become (as it did)
a Christian rival to the Pagan oak. Then, as now, the undergrowth of
ferns and flowers, and a large kind of grass, attained almost tropical
proportions beneath the benign influence of the warm shade.
The scene of our story is laid in this beautiful and hallowed island. St
Maelrubha had been long gathered to his fathers, and the sacred college
of Iona had appointed a successor to his hermitage on Isle Maree, who in
turn had made room for another. The occupant of the cell at the date of
our story is an aged saint of peculiar sagacity and piety. Long known to
the wild people of Gairloch for his bold denunciations and shrewd
penetration, he had acquired by his stern eloquence and ascetic life an
extraordinary influence over them. The Christian festivals brought
successive offerings to the sainted hermit, and the island oft resounded
with the psalms of David chaunted by the throng of faithful pilgrims.
But not only the common people resorted to the cell of the holy man; the
Norse Vikings, who held the district in partial subjugation, frequently
came to him for the ministrations of religion and for the benefit of his
sage counsel. To one and all, to young and old, to Celt and Norwegian,
he was alike accessible.
A young Norwegian prince was chief among the Vikings who then dominated
this part of the west coast. Prince Olaf was of the blood royal of
Norway, and on this account alone would have been willingly adopted by
his fellows as their leader, had not his personal bravery and reckless
daring secured to him the post of honour. He had a grievous failing,--a
restless and ungovernable temper. Naturally high-spirited, he had been
as a boy the spoilt darling of his fellows, and had grown up a creature
of impulse, subject to paroxysms of fearful passion. Whenever he was
thwarted in his plans, or roused to anger by foe or friend, the evil
spirit came upon him, and he lost all command of himself.
The prince lived with his fighting men in his great war galley, except
during the winter, when they encamped on one or other of the islands of
Loch Ewe. Often would Olaf repair to the hermitage of Isle Maree, and
receive from the saint kindly advice and priestly absolution.
It was natural that one so impulsive should early fall under the
influence of the tender passion. We need not try to imagine the story of
Olaf's love; it was no common attachment; the flame burned in his breast
with an intensity becoming his fiery spirit.
But a difficulty arose. He was unwilling, at least at first, to ask his
bride to exchange the comparative quietude of her father's home for the
restless life of a ship of war. In dire perplexity he sought the advice
of his friend the saint of Isle Maree. The wise old man proposed that
another and a larger dwelling should be erected in the form of a tower
to the west of the enclosure in the centre of which stood his own humble
cell. To this tower Olaf might bring his bride and there they might take
up their abode, within easy reach of the prince's galley on Loch Ewe.
To hasten on. The prince eagerly adopted this plan, and in a short time
the tower was built, and Olaf brought his bonny bride to the island.
Here they were married by the aged hermit, amid the rejoicings of their
followers. The princess and her maidens were delighted with the romantic
and secure retreat. Olaf's attendants pitched their tents around, and
the leafy grove grew gay with joyful laughter and with genial song.
For a while all went smoothly. The life of the young lovers was a
continual delight; their passion for one another only increased as
months rolled on. In vain his comrades sent message after message
entreating the presence of the prince on board his ship. He could not
tear himself away from his darling, and she in turn was more than
unwilling that he should leave her. At length there came word that a
long-planned expedition, in which other leaders were to take part, was
ready to start, and Olaf was expected to assume the command. He dared no
longer remain in retirement. With aching heart he told the princess of
his approaching departure. Her tears were unavailing; on the morrow he
must leave. Meanwhile strange forebodings of evil filled the minds of
both. What if he should be slain in battle! What if some unknown danger
should cause her death in his absence! A scheme was concocted for
shortening the final moments of suspense. It was agreed that when the
prince should return, a white flag would be displayed from his barge on
Loch Maree if all were well; if otherwise, a black flag would be shewn.
The maidens prepared these flags, and the prince took them with him. The
princess was to leave the island in her barge whenever her lord's boat
should come in sight, and she in like manner was to display a white or
black flag to denote her safety or the reverse.
The morning came, and they parted. The prince arrived at Poolewe, was
received by his men with wild enthusiasm, and set sail at once. It is
not necessary that we should follow him through the perilous campaign.
Enough that all ended well, and the victorious prince returned safely to
Poolewe. In hot haste, and half crazy with excitement, he sought his
boat on Loch Maree, raised with his own hand the snow-white banner of
success, and mustered the faithful attendants who were to row him to
Isle Maree.
During his absence the princess had passed through several phases of
anxiety. At first despair took possession of her heart, and it was long
ere the good old saint and her own maidens were able to soothe her with
words of hope. As she became calmer, a new misgiving occurred to her.
Did Olaf prefer the excitement of warfare to the peaceful society of his
bride? Had she lost the devotion of his heart? Did he really love her?
Then horrible jealousy became her absorbing feeling. Was the faithless
prince to treat her as an insignificant plaything, to be caressed one
day and deserted the next? It was all in vain that her companions strove
to check this new folly; she declared continually that her husband had
never truly loved her. Under the influence of this crushing doubt, she
devised a scheme whereby she resolved to test the reality of his vaunted
affection, if indeed he should ever return.
[Illustration: LOCH MAREE FROM INVERAN.]
At last the lookout announced that he saw the prince's barge, bearing
the white flag, emerge from the river Ewe into the open loch. And now
what emotions filled the breast of the lovely princess! What conflicting
sentiments, love and doubt, joy and fear! All had been arranged to carry
out her strange scheme. The large barge was ready; from its stern the
black flag was raised aloft; a bier was placed in the centre of the
barge on which the princess herself--now pallid with anxiety--reclined
as if sleeping the sleep of death; a white shroud covered her recumbent
form; around were grouped her maidens, gloomy with well-simulated grief;
and the sad and silent rowers moved the barge slowly onwards toward the
lower end of Loch Maree.
Meanwhile Olaf gazed earnestly in the direction of the island (which was
kept in sight all the way), urging anon his willing crew to put forth
their utmost speed. Soon, in the distance, he discovered the barge of
the princess. Could he be mistaken? Was that the black flag of death
which waved above it? He made all his men in turn scrutinize the
approaching barge, and each reluctantly confirmed what Olaf's own eyes
had testified. Gradually the prince grew frantic with awful despair. Was
he to be thus foiled by evil fate in the very hour of his triumph? Had
death snatched his darling from his fond embrace? Were they never to
meet again? Yes, he would follow her to that heavenly home the holy
father had often told them of! His agony increased each moment; he
cursed; he raved; his manly face became like a maniac's; his words and
gestures were those of a man possessed. The crew were horror-struck;
none dared speak; they pulled the oars with what seemed superhuman
strength, but the wind was against them, and some time elapsed before
the barges were alongside. The dreadful interval served only to increase
the prince's frenzy; his wild ravings became unintelligible.
Before the vessels touched, the madman leapt into the other barge. He
saw the shroud; he raised it; he gazed a moment on the still, pale face
of his bride; he gave one agonized cry; then he plunged his dirk in his
own breast, and in a moment that storm-tossed heart ceased to beat!
And now the miserable princess sprang from the bier, convinced too late
of her husband's passionate love; there he lay dead, she alone the
cause; with a wild shriek of remorse, she drew the dirk from Olaf's
heart and plunged it in her own. Her death was not so instantaneous as
his, and life had not quite fled when the barge, with its terrible
freight, arrived at Isle Maree. The holy father raised the crucifix
before the lady's closing eyes, and uttered words of earnest prayer;
then her spirit passed away, and all was over.
The bodies of the unhappy pair were buried within the enclosure on the
island, beneath the shade of the sacred hollies; they were laid with
their feet towards each other, and smooth stones with outlines of
mediæval crosses (_see illustration_) were placed over the graves, and
there remain to this day. A few stones still indicate the site of the
hermit's cell, and a considerable mound marks where the tower stood.
Such, with some little filling-in of detail, is the story as commonly
told in Gairloch of the sad tragedy which casts a halo of romance around
the beautiful Isle Maree. There are, as might be expected, some slightly
different versions of the legend, but this is the most usual one. Its
variations in form only go to prove its general truthfulness, and there
is no reason to doubt that the tragedy really occurred substantially as
here related; the tombstones, with their ancient crosses, are still to
be seen, and there is no other account of them proposed.
[Illustration: CROSSES ON THE GRAVES OF THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS ON ISLE
MAREE.]
Chapter III.
THE MACKENZIES OF KINTAIL.
Two origins of the great house of Mackenzie, lords of Kintail, and
afterwards earls of Seaforth, of whom the Gairloch family are a branch,
have been propounded, and have given rise to considerable discussion.
By one pedigree they have been made to spring from Colin Fitzgerald,
descendant of Otho who came to England with William the Conqueror,
fought with him at the battle of Hastings in 1066, and was created
Castellan and Baron of Windsor. Otho married a Welsh princess; their
grandson Maurice distinguished himself in the subjugation of Ireland,
was appointed to the joint government of that country, and was created
Baron of Wicklow and Naas Offelim in 1172. Others say this Maurice was
of the ancient Tuscan family of Gherardini, who date as far back as A.D.
800. Gerald, a son of Maurice, was created Lord Offally. A grandson of
Gerald married the grand-daughter and representative of the last of the
ancient line of the kings of Desmond. Colin Fitzgerald was their eldest
son. He came to Scotland, and assisted Alexander III. at the battle of
Largs. It is said that Colin was afterwards settled by Alexander III. in
Eileandonain Castle, in Kintail; that he received a grant of the lands
of Kintail from that king; that he married the daughter of MacMhathain,
heritor of the half of Kintail; and that their only son Kenneth became
the progenitor of the clan MacKenneth, or Mackenzie.
The use of the Cabar Feidh, or deers' horns, as the crest of the
Mackenzies, is supposed to have originated in a brave deed done by Colin
Fitzgerald. He was hunting with Alexander III. in the forest of Mar in
1265 when an infuriated stag, closely pursued by the hounds, charged the
king. Colin interposed, and shot the stag in the head with an arrow. The
grateful monarch granted to Colin a stag's head puissant as his armorial
bearing.
The other genealogy of the Mackenzies asserts that the first Kenneth
from whom the family sprang was of a native Gaelic stock, almost as
ancient as the ancestry of Fitzgerald. This descent is argued by Mr
Alexander Mackenzie, in his History of the Mackenzies. Relying on an old
MS. dated 1450, he shows that Kenneth was of the seed of Gilleon Og, or
Colin the younger, son of Gilleon na h' Airde, who lived in the tenth
century, and was also the ancestor of the O'Beolan earls of Ross. It
seems that Angus MacMhathain, constable of Eileandonain, was descended
from Gilleon Og, and was a near relative of the O'Beolan earls of Ross,
who were the superior lords of Kintail. Kenneth, the only son of Angus,
was a nephew of William, third Earl of Ross, and succeeded his father in
the government of Kintail. This Kenneth, we may assume, was the founder
of the Mackenzie family.
The question really seems to be whether Kenneth was a MacMhathain on his
father's side or on his mother's side. In either case he had the blood
of the earls of Ross flowing in his veins.
Kenneth, who died about 1304, set his relative, the Earl of Ross, at
defiance, and established himself in an independent position as lord of
Kintail, but his descendants were harassed by the earls of Ross, who
endeavoured to regain their power in the district.
John Mackenzie, the second lord of Kintail, and only son of Kenneth,
sheltered Robert Bruce when he was in hiding, and afterwards assisted
him to gain the throne of Scotland. John Mackenzie led five hundred of
his clansmen--some of them possibly Gairloch men--to the victorious
field of Bannockburn on 24th June 1314, and by his loyalty and valour
rendered more secure his possessions in Kintail.
Kenneth Mackenzie, called Kenneth of the Nose, only son of John, became
third chief of Kintail; he was a weak man, and in his time the Earl of
Ross regained a considerable hold over the district.
Kenlochewe, which is part of Gairloch in the present day, was attached
to the lordship of Kintail and shared its troubles. It was about 1350
that some of the followers of the Earl of Ross made a raid into
Kenlochewe, and carried off a great spoil. Kenneth Mackenzie, third lord
of Kintail, pursued them, slew many of the invaders, and recovered much
of the spoil. The Earl of Ross after this succeeded in apprehending
Mackenzie, and had him executed at Inverness. The Earl then granted the
lands of Kenlochewe to his follower Leod Mac Gilleandreis.
The fourth lord of Kintail was Black Murdo of the Cave, only lawful son
of Kenneth of the Nose. Murdo received this _soubriquet_ because, being
a wild youth, he preferred, rather than attend the ward school where the
heirs of those who held their lands from the king were sent, to take up
his abode in some one or other of the caves about Torridon and
Kenlochewe, hoping to get a chance of slaying Leod Mac Gilleandreis. The
latter hearing of Murdo's resort, and fearing mischief, endeavoured to
apprehend him, so that Murdo had to flee the country. He went to his
uncle, M'Leod of the Lews, and there met one Gille Riabhach, who had
come to Stornoway with twelve men about the same time as himself. After
so long a time had elapsed that Mac Gilleandreis supposed Murdo was
dead, his uncle gave to Murdo one of his great galleys or birlinns, with
as many men as he desired. Murdo embarked at Stornoway, accompanied also
by Gille Riabhach and his twelve men, and with a favourable wind they
soon arrived at Sanachan in Kishorn. Thence they marched straight to
Kenlochewe, and concealed themselves in a thick wood near the house of
Mac Gilleandreis. Mackenzie left his followers there, whilst he went to
look for his old nurse, who lived thereabouts. He found her engaged in
making up a bundle of sticks to carry to Leod's house. Murdo inquired
her name, for he did not remember her face at first. She gave her name,
and inquired in return who he was. He told her, on which she replied,
"Let me see your back, and I will know if you are that man." She
remembered that he had a black spot on his back. He took off his
clothes, and she saw the black spot, and so she knew him. She was
overjoyed at his return, having long grieved for his supposed death. He
asked her to procure him information of Leod's doings, and to let him
know that night. He made up the bundle of sticks for her, and she went
to Leod's house, and duly returned with the news that Leod had fixed a
hunt for the next day, and was to meet the people at Kenlochewe in the
morning. She said Leod might be known by the red jacket he wore. Murdo
determined to take advantage of this occasion, and was early on the
ground, accompanied by his followers. As the people arrived he slew all
he did not recognise; the natives he knew were dismissed to their homes.
When Leod, in his red jacket, came on the ground with his sons and
attendants, Murdo and his band attacked them with their swords, and
after a slight resistance Mac Gilleandreis and his followers fled, but
were soon overtaken at a place ever since called Fe Leoid, where they
were all slain except one of Leod's sons, named Paul, who was taken
prisoner, but afterwards released on his promising never again to molest
Mackenzie. Murdo gave the widow of Leod Mac Gilleandreis to Gille
Riabhach to wife, and their posterity were long known at Kenlochewe. The
heads of the people who were slain in Kenlochewe were cut off and thrown
into the river there; the stream carried the heads down to a ford, where
they massed together, and this place has ever since been called
Ath-nan-ceann, or the "ford of the heads." The name is now corrupted
into Athnagown or Anagown. It is shewn on the maps. The place where Leod
Mac Gilleandreis and his followers were slain is about three miles from
Kenlochewe, on the hill to the east of the Torridon road. The name Fe
Leoid, more correctly written Feith Leoid, means the bog of Leod; it is
also shewn on all the maps.
Black Murdo of the Cave, after dispossessing Leod Mac Gilleandreis, went
to Kintail, where he was received with open arms by all the people of
the country. He married the only daughter of his friend Macaulay, who
had defended Eileandonain Castle during his long absence, and through
her Mackenzie succeeded to the lands of Loch Broom (including probably
the parts of Gairloch lying to the north of Loch Maree and Loch Ewe),
granted to Macaulay's predecessor by Alexander II. In 1357, when David
II., king of Scotland, returned from England, Murdo laid before his
majesty a complaint against the Earl of Ross for the murder of his
father, but could obtain no redress; however the king confirmed him in
his possession of Kintail by charter dated 1362. Murdo died in 1375.
Murdo of the Bridge, only son of Black Murdo of the Cave, became the
fifth lord of Kintail. He was one of the Highland chiefs who accompanied
the Earl of Douglas to England and defeated the renowned Hotspur at the
battle of Otterburn, or Chevy Chase, on 10th August 1388. Murdo refused
to join Donald, the great Lord of the Isles, in his insurrection which
culminated in the battle of Harlaw. The history of the Highlands shows
that this was a period of extreme disorder and violence, and Gairloch
itself was not exempt from the terrors of anarchy. Murdo does not appear
to have troubled his head about his rights in Gairloch, and, as other
parts of our history will shew, it was overrun by several tribes.
Possibly neither this Murdo nor his father pressed their claim to
Gairloch, being sufficiently occupied in keeping possession of Kintail.
Ten years after King Robert II. had confirmed Kintail to Black Murdo of
the Cave, the same king confirmed the grant of Gairloch made by the Earl
of Ross to Paul M'Tyre (Part I., chap. i.). But we hear no more of Paul
M'Tyre; and, as an old writer has well said of this time, "during this
turbulent age securities and writs, as well as laws, were little
regarded; each man's protection lay in his own strength."
Murdo of the Bridge, who died about 1416, married Finguala, daughter of
Malcolm M'Leod of Harris by his wife Martha, daughter of Donald Earl of
Mar, a nephew of King Robert Bruce. Their only son, Alexander the
Upright, so called "for his righteousness," became the sixth laird of
Kintail. He died in 1488, about ninety years of age. By his first wife,
Anna Macdougall of Dunolly, he had two sons, Kenneth and Duncan. By his
second marriage he had one son, known among Highlanders as Eachainn
Ruadh, or Hector Roy, destined to become the famous founder of the
Gairloch family. There was also a daughter by the second marriage, who
became the wife of Allan M'Leod, laird of Gairloch.
In the year 1452, during the rule of Alexander the Upright, the
desperate skirmish of Beallach nan Brog occurred, in which the Earl of
Ross, to punish the western tribes for seizing his son, attacked and
slaughtered his foes, including Mackenzie's Kenlochewe men, who are said
to have been almost exterminated.
It is not within the scope of this narrative to pursue further the
history of the great house of Kintail. The next chapter will relate a
Gairloch legend treating of events which occurred during the time of one
of the earlier Kintail Mackenzies.
It may be convenient to explain, that long before 1609, when Kenneth,
twelfth laird of Kintail, was created Lord Mackenzie of Kintail, these
great lairds were commonly called Lords of Kintail. Colin, son of this
Kenneth, was created Earl of Seaforth and Viscount Fortrose in 1623.
Some time prior to this date the possessions of the Kintail family had
increased to the dimensions of a province, and Eileandonain Castle had
ceased to be their headquarters, the castle of Chanonry in the Black
Isle, formerly the bishop's palace, being preferred. The first Lord
Seaforth added to Chanonry Castle, and built Brahan Castle, which
continued the residence of the Seaforth family to a recent date. The
family became extinct in the male line on the death of the last Lord
Seaforth in 1815. Long before the erection of Brahan Castle the lairds
of Kintail frequently resided at a mains or farm they possessed at
Brahan.
Chapter IV.
EWAN MAC GABHAR, THE SON OF THE GOAT.
On the north-eastern shore of Loch Maree, about three miles above the
place where the river Ewe leaves the loch, is situated Ardlair, than
which no lovelier spot can be found in all the range of Highland
scenery. There are groves of different kinds of trees, and a belt of
them skirts the shingly shore of the loch; smooth grassy glades are
interspersed among the woods, behind which rise a series of marvellous
precipices, unclimbable, except in two or three places, save by
sure-footed deer or goats. Below the steep background lie here and there
great masses of rock, which ages ago have fallen from the cliffs above.
About a quarter of a mile to the south-east of the present Ardlair
House, and rather nearer to the house than a small tarn nestling there
beneath the cliffs, is a large cairn or assemblage of enormous rocks,
heaped and piled upon each other in fantastic confusion. Ash trees and
wild roses, heather and ferns, grow in tangled medley among the
_débris_, and, concealing the interstices, render access extremely
difficult. But the persevering searcher will discover a roomy cave,
formed by a mighty block of rock lying slantways over other fallen
blocks. The entrance to the cave is well concealed, and can only be got
at by climbing on to a ledge that forms a narrow platform in front of
it. After groping two or three yards along a low narrow passage a dark
chamber is reached in which one can stand upright. The floor is level,
and perfectly dry. The cairn is about a hundred and fifty yards from the
shore of Loch Maree. This cave is called by old Gairloch people now
living "The cave of the king's son," a name that it owes to the
following story, the opening scene of which is laid here. No date can be
assigned to the events narrated, but they cannot have occurred later
than in the thirteenth or fourteenth century.
[Illustration: AT ARDLAIR.]
A worthy old woman named Oighrig (Euphemia) lived near Letterewe with
her only son Kenneth. They had a pet goat called Earba (_i.e._ a roe).
The goat failing to yield the usual supply of milk was watched by
Kenneth, who with much trouble and difficulty traced her at length to
"the cave of the king's son," about three miles distant from their home.
Here the goat held possession of the small platform in front of the
entrance, and would not allow Kenneth to climb to it. He went for a
rope, and throwing it over the goat's horns secured the animal. A
beautiful little boy now appeared on the scene, and uttering sympathetic
cries hugged the struggling goat. At first Kenneth thought that the
child was a fairy, but he soon discovered his mistake. A young lady of
great beauty came forth from the cave on hearing the cries of the little
boy. It now appeared that the couple had taken refuge in this cave,
where they would have perished from hunger had they not enticed the
friendly Earba to supply them with her milk. Kenneth reported all the
circumstances to his mother, who seeing that the helpless couple in the
cave must ultimately die of want and cold if they remained there, went
and persuaded them to come and live at the humble cottage near
Letterewe. The young lady's name was Flora, and she told them that the
boy's Christian name was Eoghan, or Ewan, but she would not reveal
either of their surnames, so the boy was called Eoghan Mac Gabhar,
_i.e._ Ewan the son of the goat, to his dying day. They all lived
happily together. Earba brought them kids of her own, which the little
Ewan herded and fed. Flora grew more lovely than ever, and Kenneth
astonished even his own mother by his success in hunting and fishing for
the maintenance of the increased family. Kenneth naturally fell in love
with the beautiful Flora, though his mother strongly dissuaded him from
his suit, pointing out that Flora was doubtless of royal lineage, being
probably, though much older, the sister of Ewan, who from the sword and
mantle that Flora with much care preserved for him, was probably the son
of a king. The mantle was a robe of state of scarlet velvet bound and
fringed with pure gold, and the sword had a hilt of gold and ivory, and
some mystic characters engraved upon it. As young Ewan grew, his lordly
disposition and commanding presence confirmed the belief that he was of
royal birth.
Matters continued thus until one day the great lord of Kintail came from
Eileandonain Castle to hunt the mountains of Letterewe. He came
unexpectedly to Oighrig's cottage, and entering without ceremony
jocosely blamed Kenneth, who was one of his foresters, for not being at
the hunt. Then seeing Flora and Ewan he began to inquire who they were.
Evasive answers were returned, and Kenneth and Flora pretended they were
man and wife. The lord of Kintail on hearing the name Ewan Mac Gabhar
exhibited surprise and even alarm, for he recalled a well-known prophecy
about "the son of the goat," which had been erroneously interpreted as
unfavourable to the destinies of the house of Kintail. Failing in
persuading Flora to go away with him, his lordship left his kinsman
Hector Dubh to watch the family. Flora and Ewan growing anxious under
such circumstances soon afterwards resumed their concealment in the
cave. On this Hector, suspecting that he was duped, hastened home with
the news to Kintail. Fearing Lord Mackenzie's sleuth-hounds, the whole
family decamped and went down to Poolewe, and Earba followed with her
two kids. Next evening a vessel came to Poolewe and sent a boat ashore.
Kenneth and Flora went down hand in hand to ask for a passage to the
islands. As the boat approached they saw by their tartan that the crew
were from Eileandonain Castle. They fled like deer, but the ground was
rough for Flora, and they were soon overtaken, captured, and carried off
in the vessel.
Oighrig and Ewan remained disconsolate, protected by friends near
Poolewe; their store comprised the three goats, three baskets, and a
small locked chest containing Ewan's sword and mantle and a few jewels.
The captain of a vessel, which shortly came in to Poolewe, promised to
take them to Eileandonain, where Oighrig wished to go in search of her
son; but, whether by chance or design, the hapless pair were conveyed
instead to the country of a great chief named Colin Mor Gillespie.
Oighrig and Ewan were there taken ashore. The captain searched their
baggage, and found the mantle of state and the royal sword. Oighrig told
him all the tale, and he repeated it to Colin Mor, who placed Oighrig in
a hut beside his castle, provided well for her goats, and gave her a
cow. He took Ewan to his castle, and brought him up with his own sons as
a warrior and a gentleman. Meanwhile Kenneth, after gaining the favour
of the lord of Kintail by his prowess in warfare, had found means to
escape from Eileandonain with Flora; they married, and ultimately
discovered Oighrig, who lived with them to a good old age.
As for Ewan Mac Gabhar, he grew up a strong brave man, and none could
match him in warlike exercises. Orders came from the Scottish king for
the prosecution of a great war against a realm which included the island
of Mull, and was then under the rule of the queen widow of Olamh Mor,
who had been the renowned monarch of that land. Colin Mor was joined by
the lord of Kintail in this great enterprise, and with their allies they
mustered an army of twenty thousand men. Ewan Mac Gabhar was all fire
and eagerness for the glorious war, and was entrusted with the command
of a thousand men. During the bustle of preparation a Highlander came
and proffered his services to Ewan as page. Ewan at first rejected the
offer, on the ground of the slender form and small stature of the man;
but every day the page was in waiting, and proved so handy, that Ewan at
last engaged him and entrusted him with his baggage.
The invading army succeeded in taking possession of the whole of the
large island of Mull, which they plundered and burned. They then
proceeded to the mainland in a vast fleet of vessels, and anchored in a
long arm of the sea that extended twenty miles into the country,
apparently Loch Sunart. Here they anchored, and the soldiery immediately
began to burn and plunder without opposition.
At night the chiefs and some of their followers returned to the fleet as
a safe and comfortable retreat. The main body of the army encamped at a
considerable distance, having seen no appearance of a foe. But before
daybreak the forces of the queen, who had quietly entered the loch in
the night, surrounded the fleet of the invaders, and boarding the
vessels, made prisoners of all the chiefs and of such of their followers
as were with them, except a small number who were slain in a fruitless
attempt at resistance. Colin Mor was taken, with two of his sons and
Ewan Mac Gabhar. The lord of Kintail and three of his brothers, with
sixty other gentlemen, were also made prisoners. The army on shore was
surprised at the same time, and routed with great slaughter.
The nobles and chiefs were taken before the gallant and ruthless queen,
who made a vehement speech charging them with being the slaves of a
tyrant and with having persecuted and destroyed her royal race. She
declared for vengeance, and in accordance with the savage usages of the
times, ordered that next morning at nine o'clock the whole of the
prisoners should be brought into her presence and hanged by sevens at a
time, beginning with the youngest, so that the fathers might behold the
dying throes of their sons.
The hour arrived, and the seven youngest prisoners were led forth to
make their obeisance to the queen before their execution. When the queen
saw them she began to shew signs of emotion, her colour went and came,
her lips quivered, and she shrieked out, "O God! what do I see? Stop the
execution! stop!" and then she fell down in a swoon. Her maids came to
her assistance, and now a hundred shouts rent the air, "Mac Olamh Mhor!
Mac Olamh Mhor!" (the son of Olaf the Great); and instantly all the
queen's chiefs and kinsmen were kneeling round one of the condemned
prisoners. He was a tall and goodly youth, clothed in his father's royal
robe and with his father's ancient sword of state girded by his side.
The reader will have guessed the name of the young king; he was none
other than Ewan Mac Gabhar! Soon the enthusiastic shouts of the people
seemed to rend the rocks, and Ewan was borne aloft on the shoulders of
his kinsmen and seated on his father's throne. When the queen recovered,
she began to doubt the sentiments of her own heart, and required proof
that Ewan was indeed her beloved child who had long ago, as she
believed, been foully murdered in his bed, along with her own sister, by
the conspirators who had planned the destruction of her royal seed. The
evidence was soon forthcoming. Ewan's page was none other than Flora,
who was herself the youngest sister of the queen. She had, unrecognised,
accompanied Ewan to the war, and, having charge of the mantle and the
sword, had that morning arrayed him as his father was wont to be,
certain of the effect. She explained how at the time of the conspiracy
she had given up her bed to the wife and child of one of the
conspirators who had intended to slay her and the infant Ewan, but who
in the darkness had murdered the others instead; and how she had then
escaped with her precious charge to "the cave of the king's son" at
Ardlair on Loch Maree.
Thus Ewan Mac Gabhar was established in his kingdom. His first act of
authority was to release all his condemned associates, whose joy and
astonishment may well be conceived. He entertained them gallantly at his
castle for many days, and a friendly league was formed that long
preserved the peace and tranquillity of those realms. Ewan was greatly
assisted in his kingdom by Kenneth, who had become a renowned warrior,
and who with his beloved Flora came and resided at Ewan's castle. Ewan
married Mary, youngest daughter of Mackenzie lord of Kintail, and by his
friendship helped to increase the dominions of that great house, so that
the old prophecy about the son of the goat (already referred to) was
literally fulfilled:--
"The son of the goat shall triumphantly bear
The mountain on flame and the horns of the deer,--
From forest of Loyne to the hill of Ben Croshen,
From mountain to vale, and from ocean to ocean."
Chapter V.
THE MACRAES OF KINTAIL AND GAIRLOCH.
It is a singular fact that the first six lairds of Kintail (counting
with them Angus Mac Mhathain) had each but one lawful son, so that the
family of Mackenzie, now so numerous, increased at first but slowly.
Murdo of the Bridge, fifth laird of Kintail, being thus without kindred
of his own blood, invited one MacRae to join him in Kintail. This MacRae
was from the same original stock as the Mackenzies. His father had come
from Clunes, and settled at Brahan. MacRae, the son, accepted the
invitation of Murdo, and went with him to Kintail, where his descendants
became a numerous tribe, always owning the Mackenzies as their chiefs.
Murdo hoped for faithful service from MacRae, and it was willingly given
from generation to generation. The MacRaes were ever foremost in battle
for their lairds, and became known as "Mackenzie's shirt of mail." This
term "shirt of mail" was generally applied to the chosen bodyguard who
attended a chief in war and fought around him. Hence it would appear
that the bodyguard of the Mackenzie chiefs was composed of MacRaes.
The name MacRae was originally MacRath, signifying "the son of fortune."
If it be true that "fortune favours the brave," these valiant warriors
were rightly named, for bravery was ever their bright distinction, as
our narrative will sufficiently shew. Not only were the MacRaes devoted
to the Kintail family, but after Hector Roy Mackenzie went to Gairloch
they assisted him and his descendants in conquering their possessions.
Some of them settled in Gairloch, where their offspring are to this day.
In the following pages Iain MacIain Uidhir, Donald Mor, and Alastair
Liath, who took part in the attack on MacBeath in the island of Loch
Tollie; Donnachadh Mor na Tuaighe, or Big Duncan of the Axe, commonly
called Suarachan, and Dugal his son; Iain Liath, who accompanied John
Roy Mackenzie to Gairloch; and Donald Odhar, Iain Odhar, and Fionnla
dubh na Saighead, who all three took leading parts in ousting the
M'Leods from Gairloch,--were MacRaes from Kintail, and were all warriors
of renown.
The Rev. Farquhar MacRae (Appendix A), ordained vicar of Gairloch in
1608 and afterwards constable of Eileandonain, was of the same tribe,
but his fighting was confined to the church militant.
The effigy of the renowned Donald Odhar is one of the supporters in the
coat-of-arms of the Gairloch Mackenzies sculptured on the old barn of
Flowerdale, called the Sabhal Geal, erected by Sir Alexander Mackenzie,
Bart. of Gairloch, in 1730.
Several of these MacRaes were wonderful archers. The arrow fired at the
serving-man on the Loch Tollie island by Alastair Liath, must have
killed its victim at a distance of fully five hundred yards. Donald
Odhar and Iain Odhar, the heroes of Leac na Saighead, slew many M'Leods
with their arrows nearly four hundred yards away. Fionnladh dubh na
Saighead is said to have shot Neil M'Leod at a still greater distance.
Lest any reader should doubt the authenticity of these performances, on
account of the marvellous ranges attained, some instances of wonderful
shots made by Turks may here be mentioned. In 1794 Mahmood Effendi, the
Turkish Ambassador's secretary, in a field adjoining Bedford House, shot
an arrow with a Turkish bow four hundred and fifteen yards against the
wind, and four hundred and eighty-two yards with the wind. The secretary
said the then Sultan of Turkey had shot five hundred yards, which was
the greatest performance of the modern Turks up to that time; but he
said that pillars stood on a plain near Constantinople marking distances
anciently attained by bow-shot up to eight hundred yards. In 1798 the
Sultan of Turkey surpassed all these achievements, by shooting an arrow
nine hundred and seventy-two yards, in the presence of Sir Robert
Ainslie, British Ambassador to the Sublime Porte.
It was always the privilege of the MacRaes of Kintail to bear the dead
bodies of their chiefs to burial. At the funeral in 1862 of the Hon. Mrs
Stewart Mackenzie, daughter and representative of the last Lord
Seaforth, the coffin was borne by MacRaes of Kintail only. It was the
last time! At the funeral of her son Colonel Keith Stewart Mackenzie, on
25th June 1881, there was not a sufficient number of MacRaes to bear the
coffin from Brahan Castle. The few who were present claimed their
privilege, and essayed to carry the dead. Some slight disputation
occurred, but the vacant places had to be supplied from the Brahan
tenantry. The following curious statement, referring to this incident,
appeared in an Inverness newspaper soon afterwards:--"This seems to have
had a most depressing effect upon the few handsome MacRaes, who hitherto
were the most picturesque frequenters of the Inverness wool market, for
on the last occasion not a single MacRae was seen dressed in the garb of
the race. They have now nearly all been driven from the lands of their
ancestors, and they have apparently thrown aside the kilt and donned the
lowlanders' garb in disgust."
Chapter VI.
THE MACBEATHS.
Before the M'Leods got possession of Gairloch a tribe of MacBeaths were
the most powerful sept in the district. They originally came (presumably
in the thirteenth century) from Assynt, in the country of the Mackays in
Sutherlandshire, and were of Norwegian descent. There are still some
families of MacBeaths in Melvaig in Gairloch who are of the old breed.
The chiefs of the MacBeaths had at least three strongholds in Gairloch,
viz., Eilean Grudidh on Loch Maree, the island on Loch Tollie, and the
Dun or Castle of Gairloch, all to be described in our chapter on the
antiquities. Seven generations of MacBeaths occupied Eilean Grudidh,
which seems to have been the last they held of these fortalices. The
M'Leods, after a long struggle, subdued the MacBeaths, and expelled most
of them from Gairloch. Those who were driven out fled to Applecross,
where their descendants are to this day.
The earls of Ross must have had many a conflict with the MacBeaths, but
no traditions on the subject are extant, nor have any accounts been
preserved telling how the M'Leods ousted the MacBeaths. It is possible,
however, that a fight which is said to have taken place near a very
small loch or pond called Lochan nan Airm, to the right of the road as
you go from Gairloch to Poolewe, may have been an engagement in which
the MacBeaths were concerned. Lochan nan Airm, or "the tarn of the
arms," is about two hundred yards from the road, and half a mile beyond
the top of Achtercairn Brae. Those who were vanquished in this fight
threw their arms into the loch (whence its name), partly to lighten
themselves for flight, and partly to prevent the weapons from falling
into the hands of the victors. It is said that the formation of a drain,
intended to empty the loch so as to discover the arms, was once
commenced, but was stopped by the then laird of Gairloch, whose
permission had not been asked. The beginning of the drain is still
apparent; it would be interesting to complete it.
The following story relates an attempt on the part of some of the lord
of Kintail's men to slay one of the leaders of the MacBeaths, possibly
the chief of the tribe. It evidently took place in the latter part of
the career of the MacBeaths in Gairloch.
Once upon a time there lived a powerful man--Iain Mac Iain Uidhir--in
the Carr of Kintail, and when he heard such aliens (the MacBeaths)
resided in the island of Loch Tollie, he thought within himself, on New
Years' night, that it was a pity that such mischievous strangers should
be in the place, raising rents on the land which did not of right belong
to them, while some of the offspring of gentlemen of the clan Mackenzie,
although a few of them possessed lands, were without possessions.
Some little time after this, when the snow was melting off the
mountains, he lifted his arrow bladder on his back, sent word for Big
Donald, son of the son of Ranald MacRae from Inverinate, and they walked
as one together across Kilaolainn. Old Alastair Liath of Carr
accompanied them. They walked through the mountains of Loch-carron. They
came in by the mountains of Kenlochewe. They came at a late hour in
sight of Loch Tollie, and they took notice of MacBeath's castle in the
island, and of a place whence it would be easy for them to send their
arrows to the castle. There was a rowan-tree alongside the castle, which
was in their way, but when the darkening of night came they moved down
to the shore in such a way that the heroes got near the bank of the
loch, so that they might in the breaking of the sky be opposite MacBeath
when he came out.
[Illustration: ON CRAIG TOLLIE.]
When MacBeath came out in the morning, the other man said to Donald Mor,
"Try how true your hand is now, if it is not tremulous after the night;
try if you can hit the seed of the beast, the hare, so that you make a
carcase of him where he is, inasmuch as he has no right to be there."
Donald shot his arrow by chance, but it only became flattened against
one of the kind of windows in the kind of castle that was in it.
When the man from Carr saw what happened to the arrow of the man from
Inverinate, he thought that his companion's arrow was only a useless
one. The man from Carr got a glimpse of one of the servants of MacBeath,
carrying with him a stoup of water to boil a goat buck, which he had
taken from Craig Tollie the night before; but, poor fellow! it was not
he who consumed the goat buck. Old Alastair Liath of Carr threw the
arrow, and it went through the kidneys of him of the water-stoup.
MacBeath suspected that a kind of something was behind him which he did
not know about. He thought within himself not to wait to eat the goat
buck; that it would be as well for him to go ashore--life or death to
him--as long as he had the chance to cross. He lifted every arrangement
he had, and he made the shore of it. Those who would not follow him he
left behind him; he walked as fast as was in his joints, but fast as
MacBeath was, the arrow of the son of Big Donald fixed in him in the
thickest of his flesh. He ran with the arrow fixed, and his left hand
fixed in the arrow, hoping always that he would pull it out. He ran down
the brae to a place which is called Boora to this day; and the reason of
that name is, that when MacBeath pulled the arrow out, a buradh, or
bursting forth of blood, came after it.
When the Kintail men saw that the superior of the kind of fortress had
flown, they walked round the head of Loch Tollie sprawling, tired as
they were; and the very ferry-boat which took MacBeath ashore took the
MacRaes to the island. They used part of the goat buck which MacBeath
was to have had to his meal. They looked at the man of whom they had
made a corpse, while the cook went to the preparation for the morning
meal. Difficulty nor distress were not apparent on the Kintail men. The
fearless heroes put past the night in the castle. They feared not
MacBeath; but MacBeath was frightened enough that what he did not get he
would soon get.
Although the pursuit of the aliens from Mackay's country was in the
minds of the Kintail men, they thought they would go and see how the
lands of Gairloch lay. They went away in the morning of the next day,
after making cuaranan (untanned shoes) of the skin of the goat buck by
putting thongs through it, as they had worn out their own on the way
coming from Kintail. They came through Gairloch; they took notice of
everything as they desired. They walked step by step, as they could do,
without fear or bodily dismay. They reached Brahan; they saluted
Mackenzie. They said boldly, if he had more sons that they would find
more land for him. Mackenzie invited them in, and took their news. They
told him about the land of Gairloch, the way in which they saw MacBeath,
and the way in which they made him flee, and the time which they lived
on the flesh of the goat buck. "And Kenneth," says Donald (addressing
the chief), "I shall remember the day of the foot of the goat buck as
long as Donald is [my name] on me."
Chapter VII.
THE M'LEODS OF GAIRLOCH.
It is difficult to tell how the M'Leods came to Gairloch. It is not
impossible that their claim to it may have dated back to the times of
the Norse Vikings, from one of whom, tradition says, the M'Leods were
descended. There were two clans of M'Leod,--the Siol Torquil, and the
Siol Tormod,--perfectly distinct and independent of each other, though
said to have sprung from one common progenitor named Leod. It was a
branch of the Siol Torquil who took possession of Gairloch.
Donald, Lord of the Isles, who about 1410 laid claim to the earldom of
Ross in right of his wife (Part I., chap. i.), was the son of John
Macdonald of Islay, first lord of the Isles. John claimed the islands of
Skye and the Lews under a grant by Edward Balliol. When John made his
peace with King David in 1344 he retained the Lews. From this time the
Siol Torquil held the Lews as vassals of the house of Islay. It seems
highly probable that Gairloch, Loch Broom, Coigeach, and Assynt, being
the adjacent parts of the mainland, were at first similarly held by the
Siol Torquil, a branch of whom called the Siol Mhic Ghille Challum also
acquired the island of Raasay. In this case their original claim to
Gairloch would be derived either from the first lord of the Isles, or
his son Donald, Lord of the Isles and Earl of Ross. On no other theory
can the sway of the M'Leods in Gairloch be accounted for consistently
with the history of the times, unless indeed it was purely the result of
"vaulting ambition."
However this may have been, a branch of the Siol Mhic Ghille Challum
soon made good an independent claim to Gairloch. Oddly enough a family
feud was the commencement, as another was the ending fifty years later,
of their legal title to Gairloch. In 1430 King James I. granted "to Nele
Nelesoun, for his homage and service in the capture of his deceased
brother Thomas Nelesoun, a rebel, the lands of Gerloch and others in the
earldoms of Ross and Sutherland and sheriffdom of Innernys."
On this grant Neil, the son of Neil M'Leod, no doubt took steps to
enforce his claim to Gairloch, and to subdue the MacBeaths, most of whom
he drove from the country. He is said to have captured their three
strongholds,--Eilean Grudidh, the Loch Tollie island, and the Gairloch
Dun. It is in the time of the M'Leods that we first hear of the Tigh
Dige (ditch house), situated in a field below where Flowerdale House now
stands. It was a "black house," built of turf, roofed with divots (large
thin turfs), and surrounded by a moat or ditch.
The M'Leods also had another stronghold in Gairloch, between Port
Henderson and Opinan, the site of which is still called Uamh nam
Freiceadain, and which was the last fortress they held in Gairloch.
Eilean Ruaridh Beag, in Loch Maree, was held by one Roderick (Ruaridh)
M'Leod, after whom it was named. A fierce struggle, the details of which
are now lost, took place before the M'Leods were ejected from this
island, which afterwards became the residence of John Roy Mackenzie, the
fourth laird of Gairloch.
About 1480 Allan M'Leod, son of Roderick M'Leod, was laird of Gairloch.
His wife was daughter of Alexander the Upright, sixth laird of Kintail,
and sister of Hector Roy Mackenzie. They had two sons, who were then
little boys. The family lived on the island in Loch Tollie,--the same
fortalice formerly occupied by the MacBeaths. It was considered a safe
retreat in those unsettled times. Allan M'Leod was a peaceful man, and
occupied himself to a great extent with the sport the country afforded.
But an evil day was coming. His two brothers, who resided with their
people in the Lews, were unwilling that Mackenzie blood should run in
the veins of the heir of Gairloch. They determined to slay their brother
and his two boys, so that the inheritance might fall to themselves. With
this evil purpose they came over to Gairloch, and took up their abode at
the Tigh Dige, where they made every preparation for the carrying out of
their wicked scheme.
[Illustration: ISLAND OR CRANNOG ON LOCH TOLLIE.]
On the morning of the fatal day Allan M'Leod left the Loch Tollie Island
in his boat, and having landed at the east end of the loch, went down
Croftbrae to fish the river Ewe. At midday, as it was hot, and the fish
were not taking, he lay down on the green hill at Croft, where the house
of Kenneth Urquhart (called Kennie Rob) now stands. The hill is named to
this day Cnoc na mi-Chomhairle, or the "Hill of evil counsel." There
Allan fell fast asleep. His two brothers came over from Gairloch to
carry out their murderous intention. When they came to Loch Tollie they
saw the boat ashore at the east end of the loch, and therefore rightly
concluded that their brother had gone down to fish the river. They
followed, and finding him asleep, killed him where he lay. They cut off
his head, and threw it into the mill-lead or race, between the green
hill and the spot where the Widows' house, originally built for a
distillery, and therefore known as "The still," now stands, and the head
was washed down into the river. The brothers then returned to Loch
Tollie, and taking the boat reached the island. There they told their
brother's widow how they had slain him, and then they tore her little
boys from her trembling grasp. They carried them away with them, and
when they came to a spot above and to the north of the place now called
"The glen" the ruffians killed the boys, and buried them there at a rock
still called Craig Bhadan an Aisc, or the "rock of the place of
interment." It is shewn on the six-inch ordnance map. They stripped the
blood-stained shirts from the bodies as proofs that the boys were dead,
and took them with them to the Tigh Dige. At that time the dress of a
boy consisted only of a stout shirt or tunic, with a belt round the
waist, until such time as he was old enough for the belted plaid. The
bereaved mother came ashore as soon as she could, and followed the
murderers. She came in the evening to a place called Clachan garbh, on
the little burn half way between Achtercairn and the present Gairloch
Hotel. There were houses there at that time. She went to an old man
there, who had been a faithful retainer of her husband; she told him her
terrible story. He bade her wait until he went to the Tigh Dige to see
if her brothers-in-law had really killed the two boys. When it became
dark he went to the Tigh Dige, and through an opening he saw by the
firelight the boys' little shirts hanging up. He managed unperceived to
get possession of the shirts, and brought them to the mother; they were
covered with blood. The mother took the shirts, and went off straight
with them to Brahan to her father, Alexander the Upright, who did not
credit his daughter's terrible tale until she shewed him the
blood-stained shirts. Alexander, who was then an infirm old man, sent
his son Hector Roy Mackenzie to Edinburgh to the king, and he produced
the shirts to satisfy the king that the triple murder had really been
committed. The king gave Hector Roy a commission of fire and sword for
the destruction of the M'Leods, and in 1494 he received a grant of
Gairloch by charter from the crown.
The proceedings which ensued, and the circumstances attending the
expulsion of the M'Leods long afterwards from Gairloch, will be narrated
later on. Meanwhile the reader will be glad to learn that the two
murderers were afterwards routed in a skirmish on the south side of
Gairloch by one of the MacRae heroes, who pursued them to a spot between
South Erradale and Point, where he slew them both, and they were buried
in a hollow there, which is pointed out to this day.
Although the crown charter of 1494 granted the whole of Gairloch to
Hector Roy Mackenzie, the M'Leods, as we shall see, retained for another
century one-third part of Gairloch. The terrible murder committed about
1569 by Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod of Gairloch (Part I., chap. xii.) is
curiously analogous to that recorded above. The murder of 1569 was the
immediate cause of the warfare which resulted in the final expulsion of
the M'Leods from Gairloch, just as that of 1480 had led to their being
ousted from a great part of their territory there.
Family feuds and jealousies were the causes of the ultimate
dismemberment of the Siol Torquil, and of the alienation of the whole of
their vast possessions. Anyone who cares to trace their history, as
given in Donald Gregory's and other works, will learn how all this
happened; it does not concern us further here.
Chapter VIII.
THE MACDONALDS IN GAIRLOCH.
It will be remembered that Donald, Lord of the Isles, laid claim to and
took possession of the earldom of Ross. This was about the beginning of
the fifteenth century. It was probably from him, or from his father John
Macdonald of Islay, first lord of the Isles, that the MacLeods of the
Lews (the Siol Torquil) first obtained a title to Gairloch, as pointed
out in the last chapter. To some extent Donald succeeded in subjugating
Ross-shire, though several chiefs, including Mackenzie of Kintail,
maintained their independence. It is easy to understand that Gairloch
and other places adjacent to Skye would be overrun by the Macdonalds of
Skye, the clansmen of the lord of the Isles. Some of them settled in
Gairloch, and their offspring are still there. A charter of 1584 shews
that Torridon, on the southern border of Gairloch, then belonged to
Macdonald of Glengarry, a descendant of the lord of the Isles, and
nineteen families of Macdonalds still dwell in Alligin on Loch Torridon.
One of the Macdonalds who came to Gairloch was named Mac Gille
Riabhaich. Possibly he was a descendant of Gille Riabhach, who assisted
Murdo Mackenzie, fourth lord of Kintail, to overcome Leod Mac
Gilleandreis (Part I., chap. iii.). He took up his abode in a cave
called Uamh Mhic 'ille Rhiabhaich, or the "cave of Mac Gille Riabhaich."
It is close to a picturesque loch bearing the same name, on which are
two small islands, one of which seems to have been a crannog or island
fortalice, probably a refuge of Mac Gille Riabhaich in times of danger.
The cave and loch are among the hills, two miles due east from Tournaig,
in the parish of Gairloch.
Mac Gille Riabhaich was a notorious freebooter, as well as a warrior of
renown. He was at the battle of Flodden Field in 1513. He became a
well-known "lifter" of other people's cattle, and is said to have been
outlawed. A story is related of him, which is given here not only
because it illustrates the reckless lawlessness of the old Highlanders,
but because its hero was an inhabitant of Gairloch.
A party of Macdonalds invaded one of the Outer Hebrides, and Mac Gille
Riabhaich accompanied them. At that time he was a powerful youth, and
always carried a stout oak cudgel. The invaders having exhausted their
provisions, landed on an island in a state of hunger. Proceeding to
reconnoitre, they soon came unperceived upon a party of the natives
gathered round a fire in the open air, over which hung, from three
sticks joined at the top, a large pot, in which meat was being stewed.
Mac Gille Riabhaich, longing for something to allay the appetites of
himself and his hungry comrades, suddenly rushed on the natives, and
plied his oak staff with such effect that they fled in all directions.
He then seized the pot, and by placing the oak stick through the
suspender, swung it over his shoulder, and carried it away with its
reeking contents to his companions, regardless of the risk of its
burning him. For this daring exploit Mac Gille Riabhaich received the
_soubriquet_ of Darach or Darroch, which is Gaelic for an oak.
From him are descended the numerous families of the Darrochs in Jura and
Kintyre, of whom is Mr Duncan Darroch, the present proprietor of
Torridon. They still wear the Macdonald tartan. An ancestor of the laird
of Torridon, also named Duncan Darroch, was the son of a tacksman whose
grandfather had come from the north and settled in Jura. The story of
Mac Gille Riabhaich is confirmed by the fact, that when this last-named
Duncan Darroch, having made a fortune in Jamaica, went to the Heralds
Office to matriculate family arms and to prove his right to assume those
of Macdonald, the Lyon King at Arms remarked, "We must not lose the
memory of the old oak stick and its exploit;" whereupon the arms, still
borne by the family, in which the oak is prominent, were granted to
"Duncan Darroch, Esquire of Gourock, chief of that ancient name, the
patronymic of which is M'Iliriach."
Donald Dubh Mac Gillechriosd Mhic Gille Riabhaich is said to have been a
relative of our hero of the oak stick, if indeed he were not the same
individual. He lived at Kenlochewe about the same period. When Hector
Roy Mackenzie was attacked and brought to terms by his nephew John of
Killin, ninth lord of Kintail, the latter surrounded and set fire to
Hector Roy's house at Fairburn. John of Killin called on his uncle to
surrender and come forth, assuring him of his life. Hector was about to
comply, when Donald Dubh, who was one of John of Killin's followers,
made for the door with his two-edged sword drawn. Hector Roy, seeing
Donald Dubh, called out to his nephew that he would rather be burned in
the house than slaughtered by Donald Dubh. John called Donald away and
Hector rushed out of the burning pile, whereupon he and his nephew
became reconciled. It was agreed that Hector Roy should manage the
Kintail estates as tutor to his nephew until the latter came of age.
Next day Hector set about arranging the lands of Kenlochewe, which, it
will be remembered, had long been part of the Kintail estates. Donald
Dubh applied for a set of land. Hector Roy said, "I wonder, Donald, how
you can ask land this day that was so forward to kill me yesterday."
Donald, in reply, justified his hostility by a reference to the murder
of Kenneth Og, eighth laird of Kintail (elder brother of John of
Killin), to which Donald Dubh incorrectly supposed Hector Roy had been
accessory. Donald had been foster brother of Kenneth Og, and bitterly
resented the murder, for which in reality the laird of Buchanan was
solely to blame. Hector Roy answered, "Well, Donald, I doubt not, if you
had such fosterage to me as you had to that man, you would act the like
for me, so you shall have your choice of all the land;" and Donald got
it. From this time he was at peace with Hector Roy, and was among the
clansmen who accompanied him and John of Killin to the fatal field of
Flodden in 1513. Here it was that Donald Dubh at length avenged the
death of his foster brother Kenneth Og, the late chief of Kintail. In
the retreat of the Scottish army he heard some one near him exclaiming,
"Alas, laird! thou hast fallen!" On inquiry he was told it was the laird
of Buchanan, who had sunk from loss of blood. The faithful Highlander
drew his sword, and saying, "If he has not fallen, he shall fall," made
straight to Buchanan, whom he killed on the spot.
Chapter IX.
HECTOR ROY MACKENZIE, FIRST LAIRD OF GAIRLOCH.
Many years ago there lived at Craig of Gairloch an old man named
Alastair Mac Iain Mhic Earchair. He was a man of great piety and
respectability, and was one of those who devote much of their time to
religious exercises, and are called "the men." He is remembered by old
people now living. It was in the first quarter of the nineteenth century
that early one morning Alastair went out for a load of bog fir for
firewood. When he came to the peat moss where the wood was to be found,
there suddenly appeared before him a tall fair-haired man attired in the
Breacan an fheilidh, or belted plaid; with him were twelve other men
similarly dressed; their plaids were all of Mackenzie tartan, and their
kilts were formed of part of the plaid pleated and belted round the
waist as was the manner in the old days. The fair-haired one, who from
his noble bearing was manifestly a chief, inquired, "How fare the
Gairloch family?" Alastair replied, "They are well." Then they departed.
When they were leaving him, Alastair heard not the sound of their tread
nor saw them make a step, but they passed away as if a gust of wind were
bending down the tall grass on the hillside. Alastair, to his dying day,
declared and believed that he had had a vision of the great chief Hector
Roy with his bodyguard of twelve chosen heroes.
This account not only illustrates the reverential pride and affection
with which the memory of the famous Hector Roy is regarded by the elder
natives of Gairloch, but it also supplies a slight yet graphic sketch of
the traditional appearance of the great chief.
We have already learnt (Part I., chap. iii.) that Hector was the son of
Alexander Mackenzie (known as "the Upright"), sixth lord of Kintail by
his second wife. She was the daughter of Macdonald of Clanranald, and
Hector Roy himself married a daughter of Ronald MacRanald, the laird of
Moidart. Hector was born about 1440, but the date cannot be positively
fixed. He was called Ruadh or Roy, from the auburn colour of his hair;
he was a tall powerful man, of marvellous physique, a fearless hero, and
a redoubtable warrior,--in a word, a typical Highland chieftain.
Many of the old traditions of the Gairloch seannachies have centred in
Hector Roy and the deeds of his followers, but in the present generation
they are passing out of mind, so that our account of the famous warrior
cannot be so complete as it might have been made fifty years ago.
In Part I., chap. vii., we have seen the circumstances under which the
king gave Hector Roy a commission of fire and sword for the destruction
of the M'Leods who were in Gairloch. Hector Roy soon set about the work
of extermination, but he was so much occupied in other warfare that it
was long before he made much way in Gairloch. Ultimately he received a
charter from the crown in 1494, and later a new charter under the great
seal dated 8th April 1513, of Gairloch, together with Glasleitire and
Coire nan Cuilean in Kintail, in feu and heritage for ever.
Notwithstanding these charters, he never himself succeeded in completely
ousting the M'Leods from Gairloch.
Hector Roy resided with his father at Kinnellan or Brahan, and
afterwards at Fairburn. When in Gairloch he seems to have fortified
himself in the Tigh Dige mentioned in Part I., chap. vii., but the
M'Leods still held the Dun or Castle of Gairloch not far away.
At that time a rock stood at the edge of the shore near the head of the
bay of Ceann an t' Sail, or bay of Charlestown as it is now often
called; it is the bay where Flowerdale House and the present Gairloch
post-office and pier are situated. This rock then projected so far on
the shore that the road round it was covered by the sea at high water.
When the present road was made, a great part of the rock was removed and
the road banked up above the reach of the tide. Before this the
projecting rock contained several large recesses. Hector Roy went out
one day unattended to reconnoitre the Dun, still occupied by his enemies
the M'Leods, possibly thinking to devise a scheme for its capture. The
M'Leods observed him, and three of them slipped out of the castle hoping
to seize him. Hector, unwilling alone to face three of his foes, ran
quickly towards the Tigh Dige. When he came to the rock with its
recesses, he threw himself into one of them, with his dirk drawn. As the
first pursuer rushed round the rock, Hector slew him with one slash of
his dirk, and in an instant threw him into another recess just before
the second pursuer came round the rock to meet the same fate, as did the
third also, leaving Hector free from a rather awkward position. There is
now at this place a small well by the roadside; it was formerly within
one of the recesses. This recess was always called "the Gairloch,"
because it was the means of saving the life of the great chief of
Gairloch, and since it has been removed the little well has borne the
same title. Many persons in the neighbourhood can point out "the
Gairloch," but few are now-a-days acquainted with the story. It was a
favourite pastime of the sons of the late Sir Hector Mackenzie, Bart. of
Gairloch, when they were boys, about 1815, to re-enact this episode, an
iris or "flag" being used to represent the destroying dirk of their
renowned ancestor.
During the later years of Alexander the Upright, his eldest son Kenneth
Mackenzie, who was known as "Kenneth of the Battle," led the clan in the
many contests in which it was engaged. Hector Roy usually assisted his
brother Kenneth in warfare. He took a leading part in the celebrated
battle of Park, which gave Kenneth his appellation.
It seems that Kenneth of the Battle had married Margaret, daughter of
John Macdonald of Islay, who laid claim not only to the lordship of the
Isles, but also to the earldom of Ross. One Christmas eve Kenneth
imagined himself, with some reason, to have been insulted by Alexander
Macdonald, nephew and heir of John of Islay. In revenge for the insult
Kenneth sent his wife (whom he did not love) back to Alexander, who was
her cousin. The lady was blind of an eye, and she was sent away mounted
on a one-eyed pony, accompanied by a one-eyed servant and followed by a
one-eyed dog. The result was that John Macdonald of Islay determined on
a great expedition to punish the Mackenzies. He mustered his followers
in the Isles, and his relatives of Moidart and Ardnamurchan, to the
number of three thousand warriors. Kenneth called out the clan
Mackenzie, and strongly garrisoned Eileandonain Castle. Macdonald and
his nephew Alexander marched to Inverness, reduced the castle there,
left a garrison in it, and then plundered the lands of the sheriff of
Cromarty. They next marched to Strathconan, ravaged the lands of the
Mackenzies, put some of the inhabitants to the sword, and burned Contin
church one Sunday morning, together with the aged people, women and
children, and the old priest, who were worshipping in the church at the
time. Kenneth Mackenzie sent his aged father, Alexander the Upright,
from Kinellan, where he was residing, to the Raven's Rock above
Strathpeffer, and himself led his men, numbering only six hundred, to
the moor still known as Blar na Pairc. The Macdonalds came to the moor
to meet him. Between the two forces lay a peat moss, full of deep pits
and deceitful bogs. Kenneth had his own brother Duncan, and his
half-brother Hector Roy, with him. By the nature of the ground Kenneth
perceived that Macdonald could not bring all his forces to the attack at
once. He directed his brother Duncan with a body of archers to lie in
ambush, whilst he himself advanced across the moss, being able from his
knowledge of the place to avoid its dangers. The van of the enemy's army
charged furiously, and Kenneth, according to his pre-arranged plan, at
once retreated, so that the assailants following him became entangled in
the moss. Duncan Mackenzie then opened fire from his ambush on the foe
both in flank and rear, slaughtering most of those who had entered the
bog. Kenneth now charged with his main body, and Macdonald's forces,
thrown into confusion by the stratagem, were after a desperate battle
completely routed. Kenneth was attacked by Gillespie, one of Macdonald's
lieutenants, and slew him in single combat. Hector Roy, who commanded a
division, fought like a lion, and most of the Macdonalds were slain.
Those who fled before the victorious Mackenzies rallied on the following
morning, to the number of three hundred, but Kenneth pursued them, and
they were all killed or taken prisoners. Both Macdonald himself and his
heir Alexander were taken prisoners, but Mackenzie released them within
six months, on their promising that they would not molest him again, and
that they would abandon all claim to the earldom of Ross.
During the battle a great raw ploughboy from Kintail was noticed by
Hector Roy going about in an aimless stupid manner. The youth was
Donnachadh Mor na Tuaighe, or Big Duncan of the Axe, commonly called
Suarachan. He was one of the MacRaes of Kintail; you would have called
him in English Duncan MacRae. He received the name of Big Duncan of the
Axe because, not having been thought worthy--much to his annoyance--of
being properly armed that morning for the battle, his only weapon was a
rusty old battleaxe he had picked up. Hector Roy called upon Duncan to
take part in the fight. In his chagrin at the contempt with which he had
been treated, he replied, "Unless I get a man's esteem, I shall not do a
man's work." Hector answered, "Do a man's work, and you will get a man's
share." Big Duncan rushed into the battle, quickly killed a man, drew
the body aside, and coolly sat upon it. Hector Roy noticed this
extraordinary proceeding, and asked him why he was not engaged with his
comrades. Big Duncan answered, "If I only get one man's due, I shall
only do one man's work; I have killed my man." Hector told him to do two
men's work and he would get two men's reward. Big Duncan went again into
the fight, killed another man, pulled the body away, placed it on the
top of the first, and sat upon the two. Hector Roy saw him again, and
said, "Duncan, how is this; you idle, and I in sore distress?" Big
Duncan replied, "You promised me two men's share, and I killed two men."
Hector quickly answered, "I would not be reckoning with you." On this
Big Duncan instantly arose with his great battleaxe, and shouted, "The
man that would not be reckoning with me, I would not be reckoning with
him." He rushed into the thickest of the battle, where he mowed down the
enemy like grass, so that that mighty chief Maclean of Lochbuy
determined to check his murderous career. The heroes met in deadly
strife; for some time Maclean, being a very powerful man clad in mail,
escaped the terrible axe, but at last Duncan, with one fell swoop,
severed his enemy's head from his body. Big Duncan accompanied his chief
in the pursuit of the fugitives next day. That night when the triumphant
chief, Kenneth of the Battle, sat at supper he missed Big Duncan, and
said to the company, "I am more vexed for want of my great sgalag
(ploughman) this night than any satisfaction I had of the day." One of
the others said, "I thought I saw him following some men [of the enemy]
that ran up a burn." He had scarcely finished speaking when Big Duncan
entered, with four heads bound in a woodie (a sort of rope made of
twisted twigs and bark of birch trees), and threw them before the chief;
"Tell me now," says he, "if I have not earned my supper."
In 1488, as his father Alexander the Upright lay on his deathbed, Hector
Roy led five hundred of his clan in the battle of Sauchieburn, near
Stirling, in support of King James III. Later on Hector submitted to
King James IV., who is said to have granted Gairloch to him, and to have
given him Glasleitire in Kintail and other estates. This may have been
prior to the crown charter of Gairloch already mentioned as dated 1494.
Alexander the Upright died in 1488, and Kenneth of the Battle only
survived his father three years. On his death Kenneth Og, his eldest and
only son by his first wife, became entitled to the lordship of Kintail,
but was murdered in 1497 through the treachery of the laird of Buchanan,
avenged long after by Donald Dubh, as related in the last chapter. The
next heir was John Mackenzie, commonly called John of Killin, who was
the eldest son of Kenneth of the Battle, by his second wife, a daughter
of Lord Lovat. It was a question whether this marriage was regular; but
in 1491 the pope legitimised the marriage. On the death of Kenneth Og,
Hector Roy, notwithstanding the pope's decree, declared his nephew John
of Killin to be illegitimate, and took possession of the Kintail estates
for himself, the whole clan, with whom he was a great favourite,
willingly submitting to his rule. During this period occurred the battle
of Druim a chait, in which Hector Roy, with only one hundred and forty
men, completely routed seven hundred of the Munros, Dingwalls, and
Maccullochs, under Sir William Munro of Fowlis, at a place on the south
side of the hill called Knock-farrel, between Dingwall and Strathpeffer.
Sir William was lieutenant of James Stewart, second son of King James
III., who had been created Duke of Ross. Munro, instigated by Lord
Lovat, grandfather of John of Killin, determined to punish Hector Roy
for his contumacy in holding Kintail. Hector having only time to gather
seven score men, resolved to make up for his numerical inferiority by a
stratagem. He lay in ambush on Knock-farrel, and as Munro returned in
the gloaming from plundering Hector's house at Kinellan, Hector Roy and
his men suddenly attacked the triumphant foe. Munro's seven hundred men
were not expecting any danger, as they believed Hector Roy had fled the
country, hence they were marching carelessly and out of order. Hector's
sudden onslaught in the dusk threw them into confusion, and the rout
became so general that the Mackenzies slew all the Dingwalls and
Maccullochs, and most of the Munros. Hector Roy's men were armed with
axes and two edged-swords. The slaughter, on the first charge, was
terrific; no fewer than nineteen heads rolled into the well, still
called Tobar nan Ceann, or "the fountain of the heads." Our old friend
Big Duncan of the Axe was there, and, by the side of his fierce chief
Hector Roy, performed prodigies of valour. Duncan pursued one of the
enemy to the church of Dingwall; as he was entering the door Big Duncan
caught him by the arm, when the man exclaimed, "My sanctuary saves me!"
"Aye," replied Duncan, "but what a man puts in the sanctuary against his
will he can take out again." So he pushed him back from the door and
slew him. It would seem as if Big Duncan had joined Hector Roy that day
unexpectedly, for tradition says that when, after the fight, Hector and
his men sat down to take food, they only had one bannock for each man,
and there was none for Big Duncan; but every man gave him a mouthful,
and in that way he got the largest share,--seven score mouthfuls, from
which circumstance we gather that Hector Roy lost not a single man in
this sanguinary affray, though hundreds of the foe were slain.
In 1499 a royal warrant was issued to the Mackintosh to put down and
punish Hector Roy, who had become obnoxious to the government, as a
disturber of the public peace. He was outlawed; a reward was offered for
his capture, and MacCailean, Earl of Argyle, was appointed to receive
his rents and account for them to the crown. A period of anarchy and
disorder ensued. Hector, with his faithful bodyguard, took refuge in the
hills, and MacCailean came down to gather the rents. The Caithness men,
who at that time made frequent raids on Ross-shire, determined to
destroy MacCailean and his force. When MacCailean looked out one morning
the Caithness men were gathering above him, but he said to his
followers, "I am seeing a big man above the Caithness men, and twelve
men with him, and he makes me more afraid than the Caithness men all
together." MacCailean and his men determined to cut through the
Caithness men. When the combat began, Hector Roy and his twelve warriors
came down and also attacked the Caithness men; few of them escaped.
After the battle, Hector Roy and MacCailean went to speak to each other.
MacCailean asked what he could do for Hector, who replied, "It's
yourself that knows best." On this MacCailean bade him go to Edinburgh
at such a time, and said he would meet him there. Hector Roy went to
Edinburgh and saw MacCailean, who told him to be in a certain place on
such a day, and, when he should see MacCailean and the king walking
together, to approach them and kneel before the king. MacCailean said
the king would then lay hold of him by the hand to take him up, and
Hector was to make the king remember that he had laid hold of him.
Before this MacCailean and the king were talking together about Hector
Roy; the king said Hector was a wild brave man, and it was impossible to
lay hold of him. MacCailean replied, "If you will grant my request, I
will give you hold of his hand." To this the king agreed. On the day
fixed Hector Roy came to where the king and MacCailean were walking
together, and kneeled before the king. The king took his hand to raise
him up, when Hector Roy gave him such a grasp that the blood came out at
the points of the king's fingers. "Why did you not keep him?" said
MacCailean, as Hector Roy turned away. "There is no man in the kingdom
would hold that man," replied the king. Said MacCailean, "That is Hector
Roy, and I must now get my request." "What is it?" asked the king. "That
Hector Roy should be pardoned." The king granted the pardon, and took a
great liking to Hector Roy for his strength and bravery.
In our last chapter is a reference to the attack made on Hector Roy by
his nephew John of Killin, ninth lord of Kintail, and to Hector's
surrender to the latter. John of Killin, who had now grown up a fine
strong young man, had determined to compel his uncle to recognise his
rights as the legitimate heir of Kintail. By a stratagem he put Hector
Roy off his guard, and then surrounded and set fire to the house at
Fairburn where he was stopping. Hector was compelled to capitulate. He
was allowed to continue the management of the Kintail possessions during
the remainder of his nephew's minority, and he himself retained Gairloch
and Glasleitire in Kintail, besides other estates, as his own property.
This was about 1507.
[Illustration: GAIRLOCH FROM STRATH.]
Hector Roy now again set about the work of driving the M'Leods from
Gairloch, and a long struggle ensued. He was greatly assisted by Big
Duncan of the Axe, who had become the father of a son of like valour
named Dugal. They, with ten other MacRaes of Kintail, were ready to
attend upon Hector whenever he desired their aid; these twelve MacRaes
seem to have acted as Hector Roy's bodyguard; most likely they all
settled in Gairloch. The greatest defeat Hector ever gave to the M'Leods
was at Beallach Glasleathaid, near Kintail, where most of them were
taken or killed. Big Duncan of course took part in this victory, and on
being told that four men were at once attacking his son Dugal, he
answered, "If he be my son, there is no risk in that." Dugal MacRae
killed those four M'Leods, and came off himself without serious wounds.
After the fight at Beallach Glasleathaid, and several other skirmishes,
the M'Leods were content to allow Hector Roy two-thirds of Gairloch,
retaining the other third, which included the parts to the east and
south-east of the Crasg, a hill to the west of the old churchyard of
Gairloch, and between the present Free and Established churches. Thus
the only strongholds left to the M'Leods in Gairloch were the Dun or
Castle of Gairloch, and the Uamh nam Freiceadain, mentioned in Part I.,
chap. vii.
In 1513 Hector Roy, in response to a summons from King James IV.,
gathered his Gairloch warriors, and with them joined his nephew John of
Killin, and the main body of the clan Mackenzie, in the war with
England. They fought on the disastrous field of Flodden, and many of the
clan perished with their king. The two chiefs of the Mackenzies were not
among the slain; John of Killin was made prisoner, but escaped; Hector
also made his way home in safety.
In 1517 John Duke of Albany, Regent, appointed "Colin, Earl of Ergile,"
lieutenant of the Isles and other lands, including Gairloch, for three
years or more at the Regent's pleasure, for the purpose of establishing
peace among the inhabitants. From this commission it may be inferred how
troublous the Highlands then were.
Hector Roy had four sons and three daughters by his marriage with Anne
Macdonald. He had also a son called Iain Beg, who, according to some
authorities, was illegitimate.
The great warrior chief of Gairloch died in 1528, and some say was
buried in the churchyard of Gairloch. If he was born as seems likely
about 1440, he must have attained nearly ninety years of age. A large
number of families trace their ancestry to him; they are known as Clan
Eachainn, a name that signifies that they are the seed of Hector Roy.
Chapter X.
JOHN GLASSICH MACKENZIE AND HIS SONS.
There is little but trouble and misfortune to be recorded as regards the
immediate successors of the great Hector Roy. His eldest son, Iain
Glassich, was a minor at the time of his father's death, having been
born about 1513. As a boy he was brought up in the house of Chisholm of
Strathglass, whence his name of Glassich. On coming of age, he was
served heir to his father of the lands of Gairloch, and the grazings of
Glasleitire and Coire nan Cuilean in Kintail. We know nothing of his
personal appearance.
Soon after John Glassich Mackenzie came of age, he endeavoured to upset
the arrangement his father Hector Roy had made with John of Killin,
ninth lord of Kintail, and a desperate feud ensued. In 1544 he was
compelled to enter into a bond undertaking to keep the peace, and
promising obedience to his cousin Kenneth, the tenth lord of Kintail.
Notwithstanding this bond, he seems to have still persevered in his
claims, which, as some say, extended to the whole of the Kintail
estates.
In 1547 John Glassich refused to join the royal standard, and upon this
his estates were forfeited to the crown; but though this forfeiture was
never reversed, it does not appear to have affected the succession. The
escheat was granted to the earl of Sutherland, but it is not likely that
he was able to act upon the grant in such a wild inaccessible country as
Gairloch then was.
In 1550 Kenneth, lord of Kintail, still suspicious of the intentions of
John Glassich, sent for him to Brahan, where he came with only one
attendant, Iain Gearr, probably one of the MacRaes who had settled in
Gairloch. Kenneth, after charging John Glassich with designs against
him, caused him to be apprehended. Seeing this, Iain Gearr drew his
two-handed sword and made a fierce stroke at the lord of Kintail, who
sat at the head of the table, and whose skull would have been cloven
asunder had he not ducked his head under the table. Iain Gearr was
instantly seized by Mackenzie's men, who threatened to slay him on the
spot, but the chief, admiring his fidelity, strictly charged them not to
touch him. When Iain Gearr was asked why he had struck at the lord
himself, instead of at those who had seized his master, he boldly
replied, "I see no one else whose life is worth that of my own chief."
The sword made a deep gash in the table, and the mark remained until
Colin, first earl of Seaforth, had the piece cut out, saying that he
"loved no such remembrance of the quarrels of his relations."
John Glassich was removed to Eileandonain Castle, where they say his
death was occasioned by poison administered to him in a mess of milk
soup, prepared by the wife of MacCalman, a clergyman, and
deputy-constable of the fort. His body was sent to the people of
Strathglass, who buried him in Beauly priory, where the Gairloch
baronets are interred in the present day.
It was in the days of John Glassich that Donald Gorm of Sleat, in Skye,
made an expedition against Kintail, taking advantage of the absence of
Mackenzie of Kintail. The latter had opposed the pretensions of Donald
Gorm to the earldom of Ross. In the month of May 1539 Donald Gorm
crossed over to the mainland. He first came to Kenlochewe, which, though
part of Gairloch in the present day, still belonged at that time to the
lord of Kintail. Here the Macdonalds destroyed all before them, and
killed Miles, or Maolmuire, son of Fionnla Dubh MacGillechriosd MacRae,
at that time governor of Eileandonain Castle. The remains of a monument
erected on the spot where Maolmuire MacRae was killed were to be seen in
1704. Donald Gorm was himself killed soon afterwards, when attacking
Eileandonain Castle, by a barbed arrow fired at him by a nephew of
Maolmuire MacRae.
During the feeble rule of John Glassich the M'Leods strove to regain
Gairloch, but were kept in check by the clansmen, including some of the
valiant MacRaes.
John Glassich married Agnes, daughter of James Fraser of Foyness, and
had three sons, viz., Hector, Alexander, and John, known as John Roy
Mackenzie.
Hector, the eldest son of John Glassich, succeeded his father. During
his minority the estates were given in ward to John, fourth of the
Stewart earls of Athole. Hector came of age in 1563. His death occurred,
probably by violence, in September 1566.
His brother Alexander, called Alastair Roy, second son of John Glassich,
then succeeded to Gairloch, but as he did not make up his title he is
not reckoned as one of the lairds of Gairloch. He and his brother Hector
are said to have lived in Eilean Suainne, on Loch Maree. His death
(without issue) took place within a few weeks of his brother's decease,
and probably from the same cause. Some say that these two young men were
slain at the instigation of their relatives of Kintail; but it seems
quite as probable that their deaths were due to the M'Leods, who still
held one-third of Gairloch. Alastair Roy married a daughter of John
MacGillechallum M'Leod, laird of Raasay, by his marriage with Janet,
daughter of Mackenzie of Kintail.
The Gairloch family have thus been under a cloud since the death of the
great Hector Roy; but John Roy, the youngest son of John Glassich, saw
brighter days. The story of his long and prosperous life will form the
subject of our next chapter.
Chapter XI.
JOHN ROY MACKENZIE.
Iain Ruadh Macchoinnich, or John Roy Mackenzie, third son of John
Glassich, and grandson of the great Hector Roy, was a minor when his
brothers died in 1566, and his lands were in 1567 given in ward by Queen
Mary to John Banerman of Cardenye.
John Roy became one of the most renowned of the old chiefs of Gairloch;
he was in fact second only in fame to his celebrated grandfather, whom
he closely resembled in appearance and physique. He is one of the most
prominent figures in the old traditions of Gairloch, though there are no
stories extant of his personal prowess in warfare.
He was born in 1548, but two years before his father was poisoned at
Eileandonain. On this event his mother, Agnes Fraser, fled with John Roy
to her own relatives, and she concealed him as best she could, putting
him, it is said, every night under a brewing kettle. His mother
afterwards became the wife of the laird of Mackay in Sutherlandshire,
and John Roy then spent some time in hiding on his patrimonial estate of
Glasleitire in Kintail, under the faithful guardianship of Iain Liath,
one of the MacRae heroes. It is said he was afterwards concealed by the
lairds of Moidart and of Farr.
John Roy grew up a tall, brave, and handsome young Highlander. When he
could carry arms and wear the belted plaid, he went to the Mackay
country to visit his mother. None but his mother knew him, and neither
she nor he made known who he was. In those days any stranger who came to
a house was not asked who he was until he had been there a year and a
day. John Roy lived in the servants' end of the house, and slept and fed
with them. Mackay had two rare dogs, called Cu-dubh and Faoileag, and
they became greatly attached to John Roy, so that they would follow no
one else. Near the end of the year Mackay told his wife that he
suspected the stranger was a gentleman's son. Her tears revealed the
truth. John Roy was then kindly received at the table of the laird, who
asked him what he could do for him. John Roy begged that Mackay would
give him a bodyguard consisting of the twelve of his men whom he might
choose, and the two dogs Cu-dubh and Faoileag. He got these, and they
went away to Glas Leitire in Kintail, taking with them an anker of
whisky. Arriving there John Roy placed his twelve men in concealment,
and went himself to the house of Iain Liath Macrae. It was the early
morning, and the old wife was spinning on the distaff. She looked out,
and saw a man there. She called to Iain Liath, who was still lying down,
"There is a man out yonder sitting on a creel, and I never saw two knees
in my life more like John Roy's two knees." Iain Liath got up, went to
the door, and called out "Is that you John?" John Roy answered that it
was. "Have you any with you?" "Yes, I have twelve men." "Fetch them,"
said Iain Liath. He killed the second bull, and feasted them all. Then
he told John Roy that Mackenzie of Kintail was coming that very day to
hunt on the Glas Leitire hills of his (John Roy's) fathers. John Roy,
with his twelve men and Iain Liath, went to the hill, taking the whisky
with them. Mackenzie arrived to hunt the deer, and when he saw John Roy
and his men, he sent a fair-haired lad to inquire who they were. John
Roy bade the boy sit down, and gave him whisky. Whenever he rose to go,
more whisky was offered, and he was nothing loath to take it. Mackenzie,
thinking the lad was long in returning, sent another boy, who was
treated in the same way. Mackenzie then saw that John Roy had returned,
so he went back with his followers to Brahan, and John Roy was not
further molested by the lords of Kintail.
John Roy came back with Iain Liath to his house, when the latter told
him that he had Hector Roy's chest with the title-deeds of Gairloch, and
that John Roy must claim the estate. Iain Liath took all his belongings,
and accompanied John Roy and his twelve men to Gairloch. They came to
Beallach a Chomhla, at the side of Bathais [_Bus_] Bheinn. Coming down
the mountain they found a good well, and there they rested and left the
women and the cattle. The well is called to this day "Iain Liath's
well." They met people who informed them that Iain Dubh Mac Ruaridh
M'Leod, or Black John the son of Rorie M'Leod, who was governor of the
old castle of the Dun, was accustomed to walk every day across the big
sand and to lie on the top of the Crasg to spy the country. The party
went to the Crasg, and Iain Liath told Iain Dubh Mac Ruaridh M'Leod,
whom they met there, that unless he left the castle before that night he
would lose his head. M'Leod took the hint, and sailed away in his
birlinn with all his valuables, except one chest containing old
title-deeds, which came into John Roy's possession along with the
castle.
It is said that after this John Roy had the resolution to wait on Colin
Cam Mackenzie, lord of Kintail, who established him in all his lands.
John Roy came of age about 1569, but it was not until 1606 that he
received a charter erecting Gairloch into a free barony.
How John Roy came to revenge the assassination at the hands of Ruaridh
MacAllan M'Leod of Gairloch, of the sons of Mac Ghille Challum of
Raasay, and how this led to John Roy obtaining possession of the third
part of Gairloch, which had been retained by the M'Leods since Hector
Roy's time, will be related in our next chapter. John Roy had a long
feud with the M'Leods, and it seems to have been nearly the end of the
sixteenth century before they were finally expelled from Gairloch. In
the latter part of this struggle John Roy was much assisted by his
twelve valiant sons, several of whom, as will be seen, also figured in
struggles with the M'Leods after they had abandoned Gairloch.
John Roy was twice married. By his first wife, Elizabeth, daughter of
Angus Macdonald of Glengarry, he had eleven children. By his second
wife, Isabel, daughter of Murdo Mackenzie of Fairburn, he had five
children. Besides these he had several illegitimate children. The
recorded pedigrees give the names of only eleven sons; but tradition
says that, as John Roy's family grew up, his bodyguard of twelve chosen
warriors was composed solely of his own sons.
The northern lairds, like the nobility further south, profited by the
alienation of church property which followed the Reformation. The
rectory and vicarage of Gairloch was vacant for some years, and in 1584
we find John Roy dealing with the tiends or tithes. Disputes ensued, and
ultimately John Roy seems to have abandoned his claim.
The ironworks at Letterewe were commenced about 1607 by Sir George Hay;
they were on the property of Lord Mackenzie of Kintail. The
iron-smelting furnace at Talladale was most likely established by Sir
George Hay about the same time. No doubt woods on John Roy's Gairloch
estate were cut down to provide charcoal for smelting, and if so John
Roy must have derived pecuniary benefit from the Talladale ironworks,
but there is no record to confirm this conjecture.
John Roy resided in Eilean Ruaridh, on Loch Maree. There are two islands
of the name, distinguished as big and little; they almost adjoin. It was
in the little island that John Roy dwelt, in the house where formerly
Ruaridh M'Leod had lived. John Roy enlarged and improved the house, and
made it his Gairloch home. Some remains of the house and adjoining
garden are still to be seen.
It was early in 1609 that John Roy paid a visit to the laird of Mackay
in Sutherlandshire. On his return journey the laird of Mackay escorted
him as far as the Meikle Ferry, on the Kyle of Sutherland. When the
party arrived at the ferry, the groom of a gentleman, who was also about
to cross, endeavoured to keep possession of the boat. Amongst the
attendants of the laird of Mackay was his youthful piper, named Roderick
Mackay, a fine lad of seventeen summers. The groom placed his hand on
the boat to hold it until his master should come up. The hot-headed
young piper drew his dirk and cut off the groom's hand. The laird of
Mackay said, "Rorie, I cannot keep you longer; you must leave the
country." John Roy Mackenzie said to the piper, "Will you come with me,
Rorie?" The piper lad was only too glad to accept this invitation, and
his master, who had a great liking for the handsome and talented boy,
was quite willing that he should go with John Roy, who sent Hugh
Mackenzie of Gairloch, his gamekeeper, to the laird of Mackay in
exchange for the piper. The descendants of Hugh Mackenzie still dwell in
Sutherlandshire, where it is remembered how their ancestor came from
Gairloch. Donald Mor Mackay, an elder brother of Rorie the piper, spent
a number of years in Gairloch, and assisted his brother in the office of
piper.
In the following winter--probably early in 1610--Kenneth, Lord Mackenzie
of Kintail (son of Colin Cam), who had lately obtained a charter to the
Lews, and had been raised to the peerage, returning from his new
possessions, landed at Torridon on his way home to Brahan. His lordship
sent a messenger to John Roy Mackenzie, desiring him to meet him at
Torridon. John Roy's growing power had revived the old jealousy of the
Kintail family, and Lord Mackenzie had determined to slay him. John
Roy's sons strongly dissuaded their father from going to Torridon,
fearing that he might share the fate of his father, but he determined to
go, and to go alone. He requested his sons to follow him, and to keep
watch, but to do nothing until the morning of the following day. Towards
evening John Roy arrived at Torridon, and was hospitably received by
Lord Mackenzie. He and his men were drinking and making merry far into
the long winter night. At last they resolved to retire to sleep. It was
in a barn where their couches of heather were prepared. John Roy would
not lie down except on the same bed as Lord Mackenzie. He lay quite
still as if asleep. After a while a man came in, with his dirk drawn,
and asked Lord Mackenzie if he should stab John Roy. Lord Mackenzie
replied, "No, you shall not befoul my bed; let be until daylight." At
daybreak a man came hurriedly into the barn, and told his lordship that
there were twelve big men and a piper on the Ploc of Torridon, putting
the stone and playing other Highland games, and that one who seemed to
be the chief of them was so tall that he had the head above the whole of
them. Lord Mackenzie got up and went out in some alarm. No one knew who
the men were, until Lord Mackenzie asked John Roy. John Roy said, "They
are only my boys come to see if I got safe over the hill." It was a hard
winter, and the snow was deep on the mountains. Lord Mackenzie then told
John Roy that he had been thinking to do him harm. John Roy said, "If
you had had the supper you intended, you would have had a dirty
breakfast." When the young men saw their father they told the piper to
play; they came up to where their father was and took him away with
them. They went over the shoulder of Liathgach, and the piper played all
the way to the top of the hill without a halt. Then they made their way
homewards, and reached their house in Eilean Ruaridh without mishap. The
man who was a head taller than any of the others was Alastair Breac,
second son of John Roy, and his successor in Gairloch. The piper was
Donald Mor Mackay, brother of John Roy's piper Rorie.
[Illustration: GLEN GRUDIDH FROM LOCH MAREE.]
The terrible feud between the Glengarry Macdonalds and the Mackenzies of
Kintail came to a head during John Roy's life. He was not involved in
the warfare, and it is unnecessary to give any account of it in these
pages. During its blood-stained progress Alexander MacGorrie and Ranald
MacRory, allies of Glengarry, made an incursion to the district of
Kenlochewe, and there meeting some women and children who had fled from
Lochcarron with their cattle, attacked them unexpectedly, killed many of
the defenceless women and all the male children, and killed and took
away many of the cattle, houghing all they were unable to carry along
with them. At this time Kenlochewe seems to have still formed part of
the Kintail possessions.
Later on we find that the lord of Kintail was staying on a visit with
John Roy at his house in Eilean Ruaridh in Loch Maree. There is some
confusion or obscurity in the dates, but it seems certain that this
visit was after the incident at Torridon; it shows that the enmity
between the Kintail and Gairloch Mackenzies was now at an end, and we
hear no more of it.
When the M'Leods were finally expelled from Gairloch, and all the fights
to be recorded in our next chapter were over, John Roy applied to the
crown for a "remission" for himself and his sons for their lawless
conduct during the struggle, and this was granted by King James VI. on
2d April 1614, in a document now in the Gairloch charter-chest, which
gives John Roy and his sons credit for "much and good benefit to His
Majesty's distressed subjects."
John Roy acquired some properties in the part of Ross-shire, towards the
east coast, partly in right of his mother and partly by purchase. He
built the first three storeys of the tower of Kinkell, and no doubt
himself resided there at times. He was a shrewd and prudent chief, frank
and hospitable, and (notwithstanding his necessarily imperfect
education) a good man of business. He greatly furthered the interests of
his people and of his own large family.
He died at Talladale in 1628, in his eightieth year, and was buried in
the chapel his son Alastair Breac had erected in the old churchyard of
Gairloch.
Chapter XII.
EXPULSION OF THE M'LEODS FROM GAIRLOCH.
The stories of the various contests, extending over more than a century,
during which the M'Leods were gradually expelled from Gairloch, fill a
large page in the traditional history of the parish.
We have seen how Allan M'Leod, laird of Gairloch, was assassinated
(along with his two little boys) by his jealous brothers, and how this
led to the commission of fire and sword being granted by the king about
the year 1480, directing Hector Roy Mackenzie to exterminate the
Gairloch M'Leods. It must have been in Hector Roy's time that Ruaridh
M'Leod was driven from the island in Loch Maree which bears his name,
for we find that before Hector Roy's death, and after the fight at
Beallach Glasleathaid and other skirmishes, the M'Leods were restricted
to one-third of Gairloch, being the parts to the east and south-east of
the hill called the Crasg, so that they must from that time have only
retained the two strongholds known as the Dun of Gairloch and the Uamh
nam Freiceadain (Part I., chaps. vii. and ix.).
The following incident seems to have occurred during the struggles in
which Hector Roy took part, and before the M'Leods had been ousted from
the islands of Loch Maree.
At this time a Mackenzie, known as Murchadh Riabhach na Chuirce, or
Brindled Murdo of the Bowie-knife, lived at Letterewe. The M'Leods still
held the fortalice or crannog called Eilean Grudidh, in Loch Maree,
about a mile distant from Letterewe. One of these M'Leods, named MacIain
Dhuibh, or Black John's son, crossed over one day in his boat to the
house of Brindled Murdo at Letterewe, when the latter was away on an
expedition among the hills. Only the women had stayed at home, and
M'Leod is charged with a foul deed. He remained at Letterewe over night.
Next day Brindled Murdo returned home, and finding what had happened,
attacked M'Leod, who, becoming disabled, fled up the hills behind
Letterewe. Seeing that Murdo was outrunning him, and knowing that his
end had come, M'Leod stopped, and, as his pursuer approached, entreated
that he might die in sight of his beloved Loch Maree. Brindled Murdo of
the Bowie-knife refused his petition, and slew him where he stood, and
there they buried him. The place is called to this day Feith Mhic Iain
Dhuibh, _i.e._ "the bog of Black John's son." On the six-inch ordnance
map it is called Glac Mhic Iain Dhuibh, or "the dell of Black John's
son."
During the time of John Glassich Mackenzie and his two elder sons, there
are no records of the warfare with the M'Leods. It seems possible that
both Hector and Alastair Roy, sons of John Glassich, were slain by
M'Leods of Gairloch, though some suppose that their deaths were the
result of the continued hostility of their relatives of Kintail.
About the time that John Roy Mackenzie, youngest son of John Glassich,
came to Gairloch, Ruaridh MacAllan M'Leod, head of the M'Leods of
Gairloch, who had the _soubriquet_ of Nimhneach, or "venomous,"
committed a fearful crime. It will be remembered that John Roy's
deceased brother, Alastair Roy, had married the daughter of Iain
MacGhille Challum M'Leod, laird of Raasay (called Iain na Tuaighe, or
John of the Axe), by his marriage with Janet, daughter of John
Mackenzie, lord of Kintail. Iain MacGhille Challum had given great
offence to his clan, the Siol Mhic Ghille Challum, by marrying his
daughter to a Gairloch Mackenzie. After the death of Janet Mackenzie,
his first wife, Iain MacGhille Challum had married a sister of his
relative, the before-named Ruaridh MacAllan M'Leod. There were sons by
both marriages. Ruaridh MacAllan, taking advantage of the discontent of
the Siol Mhic Ghille Challum, plotted the destruction of MacGhille
Challum and his sons by his first marriage, hoping that his own nephew,
the eldest son of MacGhille Challum's second marriage, would then
inherit Raasay. Ruaridh MacAllan induced MacGhille Challum, and his sons
by the first marriage, to meet him at the island of Isay, in Waternish,
on the pretence that he desired to consult them on matters of
importance. After entertaining them at a feast he retired to another
room, and then caused them to be summoned singly to his presence. As
each came forward he was assassinated. The eldest son of the second
marriage, then a young boy, who was in an inner apartment, hearing the
dying screams of one of his half-brothers, called out in an agony,
"That's my brother's cry!" "Never mind," said the ruthless Ruaridh
MacAllan, "his screams will make you laird of Raasay." Donald Gregory,
in his history, says that the Mackenzies of Gairloch pursued Ruaridh Mac
Allan, in revenge for the murder of Iain Mac Ghille Challum's sons,
whose mother had been Janet Mackenzie, and whose sister had been the
wife of John Roy's brother. At this time there was a great feud between
Ruaridh M'Leod of the Lews, assisted by Neil Angusson M'Leod of Assynt
and by the blood-stained Ruaridh Mac Allan of Gairloch on the one hand,
and Colin Mackenzie, lord of Kintail (assisted by other chiefs),
fighting on behalf of his cousin Torquil Connanach M'Leod, on the other
hand. It is unnecessary in these pages to state the origin and course of
this dispute. Donald Gregory tells us that John Roy Mackenzie, impelled
no doubt by the motive of revenge already mentioned, was most active on
the side of his relative of Kintail. In June 1569 the Regent Murray and
his council sat at Inverness, and put a stop for the time being to the
feud so far as the leaders were concerned, but their intervention did
not make an end of John Roy's vengeful proceedings against Ruaridh Mac
Allan M'Leod of Gairloch. The warfare between these chieftains is said
to have been long and fierce. Ultimately Ruaridh Mac Allan was
slain--probably shot--by the great MacRae archer, Domhnull Odhar Mac
Iain Leith, of whom more anon. It seems to have been nearly the end of
the sixteenth century before John Roy finally expelled the M'Leods from
Gairloch. They had long since abandoned the Dun of Gairloch, and were
now driven from the Uamh nam Freiceadain, their last stronghold in the
parish.
The savage nature of this prolonged struggle is illustrated by the
tradition, that a number of M'Leods were hung on gallows erected on a
hillock a little to the north of the Free Church at Kenlochewe. The
hillock is called to this day Cnoc a Chrochadair, or "the hangman's
hillock." They say that Domhnull Odhar took part in the capture of the
M'Leods who were executed here.
It was after the expulsion of the M'Leods that the affair of Leac nan
Saighead occurred. Many of the M'Leods who had been driven from Gairloch
had settled in Skye. A number of young men of the clan were invited by
their chief to pass Hogmanay night in his castle at Dunvegan. There was
a large gathering. In the kitchen there was an old woman, who was always
occupied in carding wool. She was known as Mor Ban, or Fair Sarah, and
was supposed to be a witch. After dinner was over at night the men began
to drink, and when they had passed some time thus they sent into the
kitchen for the Mor Ban. She came, and sat down in the hall with the
men. She drank one or two glasses, and then she said it was a poor thing
for the M'Leods to be deprived of their own lands in Gairloch and to
live in comparative poverty in Skye. "But," says she, addressing the
whole party, "prepare yourselves and start to-morrow for Gairloch, sail
in the black birlinn, and you shall regain Gairloch. I shall be a
witness of your success when you return." The men being young, and not
over-burdened with wisdom, believed her, because they thought she had
the power of divination. They set sail in the morning for Gairloch, and
the black galley was full of the M'Leods. It was evening when they came
into the loch, and they dare not risk landing on the mainland, for they
remembered that the descendants of Domhnull Greannach (a great Macrae)
were still there, and they knew their prowess only too well. They
therefore turned to the south side of the loch, and fastened their
birlinn to Fraoch Eilean, in the shelter opposite Leac-nan-Saighead,
between Shieldaig and Badachro. They decided to wait there till morning,
then disembark and walk round the head of the loch. But all the
movements of the M'Leods had been well watched. Domhnull Odhar MacIain
Leith and his brother Iain Odhar MacIain Leith, the celebrated Macrae
archers (sons of Iain Liath, mentioned in Part I., chap. xi.) knew the
birlinn of the M'Leods, and they determined to oppose their landing.
They walked round by Shieldaig and posted themselves before daylight at
the back of the Leac, a protecting rock overlooking Fraoch Eilean. The
steps on which they stood at the back of the rock are still pointed out.
Donald Odhar, being a short man, took the higher of the two steps, and
Iain the other. Standing on these steps they crouched down in the
shelter of the rock, whence they commanded a full view of the island on
which the M'Leods were lying here and there, while the Macrae heroes
were invisible from the island. They were both celebrated shots, and had
their bows and arrows with them. As soon as the day dawned they opened
fire on the M'Leods; a number of them were killed before their comrades
were even aware of the direction whence the fatal arrows came. The
M'Leods endeavoured to answer the fire, but not being able to see their
foes, their arrows took no effect. In the heat of the fight one of the
M'Leods climbed the mast of the birlinn, for a better sight of the
position of the foe. Iain Odhar took his deadly aim at him when near the
top of the mast. The shaft pierced his body and pinned him to the mast.
"Oh," says Donald, "you have sent a pin through his broth." So the
slaughter continued, and the remnant of the M'Leods hurried into the
birlinn. They cut the rope and turned her head seawards, and by this
time only two of them were left alive. So great was their hurry to
escape that they left all the bodies of their slain companions on the
island. The rumour of the arrival of the M'Leods had spread during the
night, and other warriors, such as Fionnla Dubh na Saighead and Fear
Shieldaig, were soon at the scene of action, but all they had to do was
to assist in the burial of the dead M'Leods. Pits were dug, into each of
which a number of the dead bodies were thrown, and mounds were raised
over them, which remain to this day as any one may see. The name
Leac-nan-Saighead means "the flat stone of the arrows."
Donald Odhar is credited with a similar feat to that performed by his
brother Iain at Leac-nan-Saighead. It was probably before the affair at
that place that a birlinn, manned by M'Leods, came in to the bay, now
called the Bay of Charlestown, to reconnoitre Gairloch. Donald Odhar was
on the hill behind Flowerdale, called Craig a Chait, and as usual
carried his bow and arrows. He saw the Macleods enter the bay; one of
them climbed the mast of the vessel for a better view, when Donald
Odhar, taking advantage of the comparatively distinct mark thus
presented, let fly an arrow with unerring aim, and pinned the
unfortunate M'Leod to the mast. The distance traversed by the arrow
cannot have been less than half a mile.
Fionnla Dubh na Saighead was a relative of Donald Odhar and Iain Odhar,
and was also of the Macraes of Kintail. Finlay usually lived at Melvaig.
As a marksman he was on a par with Donald Odhar. In his day young
M'Leod, laird of Assynt, came to Gairloch in his birlinn to ask for a
daughter of John Roy in marriage. He was refused, and set off northwards
on his return voyage in his birlinn, which was manned with sixteen oars.
They rowed quite close to the land round Rudha Reidh, the furthest out
headland of the North point; Rudha Reidh was then known as Seann Rudha,
a name which is still sometimes given to it. Fionnla Dubh na Saighead
sat on a rock as the birlinn passed. He called out, "Whence came the
heroes?" They replied, "We came from Gairloch." "What were you doing
there?" said Finlay. "We were asking in marriage the daughter of
Mackenzie of Gairloch for this young gentleman." "Did you get her?" said
Finlay. They replied, "Oh, no." Finlay dismissed them with a
contemptuous gesture and an insulting expression. They passed on their
way without molesting him, because they had no arms with them. Young
M'Leod brooded over the insult he had received from Finlay Macrae, who
was well known to him by repute. He soon returned with his sixteen-oared
birlinn, manned by the choicest warriors of Assynt, to take vengeance on
Finlay, who noticed the galley and guessed who were its occupants. He
called for one Chisholm, his brother-in-arms, and the two of them
proceeded to a leac, or flat stone, close to the edge of the low cliff
about a mile north of Melvaig; the leac is still pointed out. They
reached this place before the Macleods could effect a landing. On the
way the Chisholm said to Finlay, "You must leave all the speaking to
me." As the birlinn drew near Chisholm called out, "What do you want?"
"We want Fionnla Dubh na Saighead." "You won't get him, or thanks," said
Chisholm; "go away in peace." The M'Leods began to threaten them. "If
that is the way," said Chisholm, "let every man look out for himself."
The contest (_cath_) began. Finlay and Chisholm were well sheltered at
the back of the leac. A number of the M'Leods were killed by the arrows
of the two heroes on shore, whilst they themselves remained uninjured.
The M'Leods, finding their losses so severe, soon thought that
discretion was the better part of valour, and, turning their birlinn
northwards, departed for their own country. They never again molested
Finlay.
There is an elevated place on the north point of Gairloch, called Bac an
Leth-choin, or "the hillock of the cross-bred dog." About mile to the
east, and much lower, is a ridge called Druim Carn Neill, or the "ridge
of the cairn of Neil." Fionnla Dubh na Saighead one day spied a man
named Neil M'Leod near his own house at Melvaig, at the south-west
corner of the North Point. Finlay fired an arrow at the man and wounded
him. Neil, who was a swift runner, fled eastwards over the high ground.
Finlay gave chase, accompanied by a cross-bred dog, a sort of lurcher,
which followed on the track of Neil. When Finlay reached the Bac an
Leth-choin he caught sight of Neil, and shot him dead at the Druim Carn
Neill. Neil was buried where he fell, and a cairn was raised over his
grave. Both the Bac an Leth-choin and the Druim Carn Neill are shown to
the north of Inverasdale on the six-inch ordnance map. Some remains of
Neil's cairn are still pointed out.
It would seem that the Gairloch M'Leods did not soon give up all hope of
regaining their former territory, for we find that in 1610 a severe
engagement took place between Mackenzies and M'Leods at Lochan an Fheidh
(sometimes wrongly spelt Lochan a' Neigh), on the west side of Scoor
Dubh, above Glen Torridon, just past the southern corner of Gairloch.
The Mackenzies, under the leadership of Alastair Breac, John Roy's
second son, and assisted by Donald Odhar and other MacRaes, completely
routed the M'Leods, who were commanded by Iain MacAllan Mhic Ruaridh
(now the representative of Allan M'Leod, formerly laird of Gairloch),
accompanied by his uncle John Tolmach M'Leod. Iain MacAllan was taken
prisoner; many of his followers were killed, seventeen or eighteen taken
prisoners, and the few who escaped with John Tolmach were pursued out of
the district. The slain M'Leods were buried on the field of battle,
where their graves are still pointed out; nettles are growing about them
to-day.
In August 1611 Murdo Mackenzie, third son of John Roy, with a party of
Gairloch men, set sail for the Isle of Skye in a vessel well stocked
with wine and provisions, with the object of carrying off the daughter
of Donald Dubh MacRuaridh, a cousin of Iain MacAllan. A marriage between
John Roy's son and Donald Dubh's daughter would have vested the ancient
rights of the Gairloch M'Leods in the Mackenzies. Some say that Murdo's
intention was also to seize John Tolmach M'Leod, who had escaped from
Lochan an Fheidh. The ship was driven by a storm into a sheltered bay
off Kirkton of Raasay, where young M'Leod, the laird of Raasay, at that
time resided. Here Murdo Mackenzie cast anchor. Young Raasay hearing
that Murdo was on board, resolved to attempt to secure him by stratagem,
in order to get him exchanged for his relative Iain MacAllan Mhic
Ruaridh, still a prisoner in Gairloch. Raasay, with Gille-challum Mor
and twelve men, started for the ship, leaving orders for all the men in
Raasay to be in readiness to go out to their assistance in small boats
as soon as the alarm should be given. Murdo Mackenzie received his
visitors in the most unsuspecting manner, and hospitably entertained
them with as much wine and other viands as they could consume, sitting
down with them himself. All his men joined in the revelry, except four
heroes, who, feeling a little suspicious, abstained from drinking.
Ultimately most of the party became so drunk that they retired to sleep
below deck. Murdo Mackenzie remained sitting between Raasay and
Gillie-challum Mor, when Raasay suddenly started up and told him he must
become his prisoner. Murdo in a violent passion threw Raasay down,
exclaiming, "I would scorn to be your prisoner." In the struggle which
ensued one of Raasay's men drew his dirk and stabbed Murdo Mackenzie
through the body, and he fell overboard. Being a good swimmer, he was
making for Sconser on the opposite shore of Skye, when the Raasay men,
who had heard the row, coming out in their small boats, pelted Murdo
with stones and drowned him. The four heroes who had abstained from
drink now fought nobly for their lives. The other members of Mackenzie's
party were all slain, but not a soul of the Raasay men ultimately
escaped alive from the dirks of the four abstaining Mackenzies. The
small boats surrounded the vessel, and the Raasay men attempted to board
her, but were thrown back, and slain without mercy by her four gallant
defenders, one of whom, Hector MacKenneth, was however killed by a
chance shot or arrow from one of the boats. The other three managed to
cut their anchor cable, hoist their canvas, and sail away before a fresh
breeze, with their horrible cargo of dead bodies lying about the deck.
As soon as they were out of danger they threw the bodies of Raasay and
his men overboard. It is said that none of the bodies were ever found
except that of Gille-challum Mor, which came ashore on Raasay. The
bodies of the dead Mackenzies, and of Bayne of Tulloch who had
accompanied them, were taken to Lochcarron and buried there. The three
heroes who survived were Iain MacEachainn Chaoil, Iain MacCoinnich Mhic
Eachainn, and Coinneach MacSheumais; the first named lived for thirty
years after, dying in 1641, the second died in 1662, and the third in
1663--all very old men. This seems to have been the last conflict
between Mackenzies and M'Leods, and the Mackenzies have ever since held
undisputed possession of Gairloch.
Chapter XIII.
ALASTAIR BREAC, AND HIS SON AND GRANDSON.
Alexander, second son of John Roy Mackenzie, succeeded his father in
1628 as chief of Gairloch, his elder brother having died without male
issue during the father's lifetime. Alexander was known as Alastair
Breac; the _soubriquet_ "breac" means "pock-pitted," and had reference
to traces of smallpox, then a terrible scourge in the Highlands. He was
fifty years of age when he succeeded his father. He was a very tall man,
being as we saw in Part I., chap. xi., a head above all his brothers,
who were themselves fine men. Not only was he mighty in stature, but he
was also a renowned warrior. It was he who led the Mackenzies in the
battle at Lochan an Fheidh in Glen Torridon, described in our last
chapter, when the M'Leods were completely routed; and he is said to have
been his father's principal assistant and agent in finally expelling the
M'Leods from Gairloch. He is described as having been "a valiant worthy
gentleman."
He was twice married, and had twelve children. He added by purchase or
arrangement to the family estates. He seems to have mostly resided on
Eilean Suainne in Loch Maree, where he died; his father's house and
garden on Eilean Ruaridh were still in existence in his days, and he
certainly used at times the old Temple house at Flowerdale.
In the days of Alastair Breac, Gairloch was still subject to raids,
especially by cattle-lifters from Lochaber. The Loch Broom men used
often to assist the people of Gairloch in repelling invaders. The
trysting-place of the Gairloch and Lochaber men was at the spring or
well just below the present road at the head of Glen Dochartie. The
present road has buried the well, but the water is still there.
There lived a man in Lochaber in those days called Donald, the son of
Black Donald. He was a cross man, and a choice thief. He had a brother
known as Iain Geal Donn, or White-brown John, and there was only one
other man in all Scotland who was a better "lifter" of cattle than these
two. Donald sent word to Alastair Breac, laird of Gairloch, that he
would "take spoil of him, and no thanks to him." On a previous occasion
Donald had been foiled in an attempt to rob Gairloch. Alastair Breac
sent for Alastair Buidhe Mackay, from Strath Oykell in Sutherlandshire,
who was the strongest and most valiant man he could hear of in the three
counties, and him he appointed captain of his guard. Iain Geal Donn came
with his men to An Amilt, in Easter Ross, and there they "lifted" eleven
cows and a bull. They came with their spoil through Strath Vaich and
Strath Conan to a place called Sgaird-ruadh, or Scardroy, where they
stayed the night. It was they who gave this name to the place, because
they had pushed the beasts so hard that blood came from them there in
the night. Alastair Buidhe Mackay had a Lochaber lad for his servant,
and it was this lad who told him for certain that the thieves were
stopping that night at a shieling bothie at Scardroy. Mackay and his
servant hurried away to Scardroy. There he put the muzzle of his gun to
the lad's body, and made him swear to be faithful to him. They moved on
to the bothie, and there Mackay again made the lad swear to be true to
him, and not to let any of the thieves come out alive. The Lochaber
thieves were in the bothie quite unsuspicious, roasting a portion of the
bull. Mackay posted his servant at the door, whilst he himself climbed
on the other end of the bothie. He quietly lifted the lower edge of a
divot on the roof, and peeped in to see what was going on. He saw Iain
Geal Donn looking very jolly, and warming the backs of the calves of his
legs at the fire. Iain suddenly turned round, and said to his men who
were about the fire roasting the meat, "Look out! I am getting the smell
of powder." Before he could say another word, the charge from Mackay's
gun was lodged in the small of his back. The instant he had fired the
shot, Mackay rushed to the door to assist his servant, and the two of
them slew all the Lochaber men as they came to the door, except one who
got off by a fluke, and he had the heel cut off one foot! They followed
him a little way, but were too tired to catch him. They returned to the
dead bodies at the bothie, and ate their fill of the meat that was
roasting. They sewed up the body of Iain Geal Donn in the bull's hide,
and put the roasting spit across his mouth. Then they went away, leaving
the dead in the bothie. Alastair Buidhe Mackay returned west to
Gairloch, and told the laird what he had done. Alastair Breac was so
pleased with the account, that he sent a running gillie at once to
Brahan with a letter to tell Lord Mackenzie of Kintail what had
occurred. Who should happen to be dining with Lord Mackenzie but Cameron
of Lochiel! When his lordship had read the letter, he threw it over to
Lochiel, saying, "There is blood on you over there, you thieves."
Lochiel was so stung that he left the dinner untouched, and went
straight home to Lochaber. He sent gillies to Scardroy, and they brought
away the body of Iain Geal Donn. They buried him in Corpach in Lochaber,
where his memorial cairn stands to this day. Soon after this, Lochiel
meditated a raid on Gairloch; he thought he would make it hard for
Alastair Breac, in revenge for the slaughter of the Lochaber men. When
Alastair Breac heard of this, he collected four score men to keep back
the Lochaber invaders. They were with the laird all night in the old
house called the Temple, now the head-gardener's house at Flowerdale.
They were a ragged crew, but they were strong and they were brave. In
the morning they went away, and soon reached the Great Black Corrie of
Liathgach. There were shieling bothies at the foot of the glen, and the
Gairloch men thought their Lochaber foes might be lying in ambush in the
bothies. Alastair Ross from Lonmor volunteered to go and see if the
Lochaber men were in the bothies, which were not in use at that time of
the year; he was not much in his clothing, but he did not lack pluck. He
went to the bothies, and in a loud voice challenged the Lochaber men to
come out. But he got no answer. The Lochaber men, fortunately for
themselves, had not come forward, having heard of Alastair Breac's
preparations to resist them. The Gairloch men got the news of the
retreat of the Lochaber men from the people of Coire Mhic Cromail in
Torridon, who at the same time assured them they would have assisted
them against the invader had they come. Our ragged rabble, without pride
or fear, returned to Gairloch, and spent the night with Alastair Breac
in the Temple house, with music, drinking, and revelry. It was on their
tramp homewards that they met at Kenlochewe Ruaridh Breac, son of Fair
Duncan, the old bard who lived at Cromasaig, and he composed the
celebrated song to the "Guard of the Black Corrie."
The story of the watch at Glac na Sguithar belongs to the same period.
The dell bearing that name is to the east of the head of Glen Dochartie.
Then almost all the proprietors in the Highlands paid blackmail to Colla
Ban; consequently he made no raids upon their territories; and if others
made raids upon them, Colla made good the loss. The laird of Gairloch
refused to pay blackmail to Colla, and he sent him word that he had many
brave men in Gairloch, therefore he would give blackmail to no one.
Colla replied, "He would soon make a raid upon Gairloch, and before
driving away the spoil he would sleep a night in the laird of Gairloch's
bed." Upon hearing this Mackenzie called out the bravest and strongest
of the Gairloch men, and he sent them to keep guard in the passes
through which the Lochaber men were most likely to advance northward.
There were thirty picked men in the Coire Dubh, and an equal member in
Glac na Sguithar. In each guard Mackenzie had his own near relations and
kinsmen. At this time there was an inn at Luib, at the Gairloch end of
Loch Rosque; it was on the green at the head of the loch, below where
the present Luibmhor inn stands; the innkeeper was called Iain Caol.
While the guard of Glac na Sguithar were on duty, late on a Saturday
night, four of the Lochaber men, who had been sent on in advance to spy
the land, took up their quarters in Iain Caol's hostelry. On Sabbath
morning they sat round the fire in the one public room in the house, and
Iain himself went out for a walk. He was not long away, but soon
returned to the Cameron spies from Lochaber. Addressing them he said, "I
see four of the Gairloch men from the watch at Glac na Sguithar coming
this way. I am sure they will call in for their 'morning.' Go to the
other end, where you slept last night, and remain there quietly for a
little. They will soon be off again." This request displeased the
Camerons, for they answered rather tartly, "Where did we ever see four
from whose face we would turn away?" "Be that as it may," said Iain,
"take my advice just now. You can see and hear all that may go on; and,
when you do so, if you think it prudent to go among them, you can join
them before they leave the house." They took his advice and retired. The
four came in, each of them a scion of the Gairloch family, except one
who was a Chisholm. Big Murdo, son of the good man of Shieldaig, sat at
the far end of the bench next the partition; beside him Iain Gearr Mac
Mhurchaidh Mhic Iain took up his position. The third was Murdo Roy; and
Chisholm occupied the other end of the bench. Big Murdo of Shieldaig
called for a bottle of whisky; they drank it. Iain Gearr called for
another bottle, and they drank it. Murdo Roy called for a third bottle;
they got it also, and drank it. Then Chisholm called for a bottle. "You
have enough," said Iain Caol. "Is it because I am not one of the gentry
that you refuse me?" said Chisholm, with rising ire: "Give me my bottle
of your own good will, or I will have it against your will." They got
the fourth bottle, and while they were discussing it Murdo of Shieldaig
said to Iain Caol, "Do you ever see any of those braggarts from Lochaber
who are troubling us, keeping us on guard away from home? I wish a few
of them came, till we would have some sport with them." "Not a man of
them ventures this way," said Iain Caol. The Gairloch men went away, and
Iain accompanied them over the hill. Here they sat and drank Iain's
bottle, which he had concealed under his arm. Then Iain returned, and
found the Lochaber men sitting again at the fire. "Have I here the
heroes who never saw men from whom they would retreat?" said Iain Caol
to them. One of them replied, "We saw only two of them, but we never saw
such men before. If one of them caught any of us, he could easily crush
every bone of the body in his hand." So the Lochaber spies quietly
returned home. The Camerons never again attempted to make a raid upon
Gairloch, and Alastair Breac heard no more of their menaces.
Alastair Breac died 4th January 1638, aged sixty, and was buried in the
chapel he had erected in the Gairloch churchyard.
He was succeeded by his eldest son Kenneth, sixth laird of Gairloch, who
was a strong royalist during the wars of Montrose and the Covenanters,
and commanded a body of Highlanders at Balvenny, under Thomas Mackenzie
of Pluscardine, and his own brother-in-law the Earl of Huntly, but when
the royalist army was surprised and disarmed he managed to escape. As a
malignant he was fined by the Committee of Estates for his adherence to
the king (see Appendix F).
Kenneth added to the family property. He was three times married, and
had eleven children. He built the Stankhouse, or "moat-house," on the
site of the old Tigh Dige, and made his Gairloch home there. He died in
1669, and was buried in Beauly Priory, where his great-grandfather, John
Glassich Mackenzie, had been interred.
Alexander, eldest son of Kenneth, became the seventh laird of Gairloch.
He also added to the family estates. He was thrice married, and had six
children. He seems to have lived a quiet life; he died in 1694, aged
forty-two, and was buried in the burial-place in the Gairloch
churchyard.
Chapter XIV.
THE BARONETS OF GAIRLOCH, AND SOME OTHER GAIRLOCH MACKENZIES.
Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, eldest son of Alexander, seventh laird of
Gairloch, was created a baronet of Nova Scotia by Queen Anne on 2d
February 1703. These baronetcies were frequently conferred upon
proprietors who assisted in peopling Nova Scotia, then an object of
great solicitude with the crown, so that it is possible the first
baronet of Gairloch, or his father, may have promoted emigration among
the Gairloch people. He was educated at Oxford, and represented
Ross-shire in the Scottish Parliament, where he strongly opposed the
Union. When in Gairloch he lived at the Stankhouse. He had six children.
He died in December 1703, aged only thirty-two, and was buried in
Gairloch in the old chapel within the churchyard, which was the
burial-place of the family. This old chapel was roofed in 1704. The sum
of thirty merks was then expended in "harling, pinning, and thatching
Gairloch's burial place." At his death Sir Kenneth was deeply involved
in debt.
Sir Alexander, eldest son of the first baronet, became the ninth laird
of Gairloch when only three years of age. For want of means he and his
sister Anne had to be brought up in tenants' houses. During his long
minority some of the debts were paid off. In 1712 he was sent to the
school at Chanonry, and after six years there he went to Edinburgh to
complete his education. He afterwards made a foreign tour, and on his
return in 1730 married his cousin Janet of Scatwell, by whom he had nine
children. He was called by his people Seann Tighearna, and seems to have
resided mostly in Gairloch, for latterly his lady lived alone at
Kinkell. In 1738 he pulled down the Stankhouse, which stood in a low
marshy situation on the site of the old Tigh Dige, and built the present
Flowerdale House on a raised plateau surrounded by charming woods and
rugged hills, and with a southern aspect. The glen here was a perfect
jungle of wild flowers before the introduction, long after this time, of
sheep farming, and so Sir Alexander appropriately gave the name of
Flowerdale to his new chateau.
The attempt of the unfortunate Prince Charlie to regain the throne of
his ancestors occurred in the time of Sir Alexander. This prudent
cautious baronet kept out of the "Forty-five," though some of his people
fought with their fellow Highlanders at the fatal battle of Culloden.
It was shortly after that battle, when Prince Charlie was hiding on the
west coast, that two vessels came to Sgeir Bhoora, the small island rock
near Poolewe at the head of Loch Ewe, and remained there a short time
waiting for a messenger, who was expected to bring gold sent by the
court of France for Prince Charlie's use. Whether afraid of being caught
in a corner by an English man-of-war, or impatient of the delay in the
arrival of the messenger, the two vessels sailed away a few days before
the occurrence of the incident about to be related.
[Illustration: BEINN LAIR FROM FIONN LOCH.]
There were at this time three brothers of the name of Cross, who were
sons of one of the last of the Loch Maree ironworkers. One of them was a
bard, who built a house at Kernsary, still called Innis a bhaird, or
"the oasis of the bard." One of the bard's brothers, named Hector, who
had become a crofter at Letterewe, was at a shieling at the Claonadh (or
Slopes), at the back of Beinn Lair, above Letterewe, where he and other
crofters grazed their cattle in summer. One day after the battle of
Culloden a stranger, a young Highlander, with yellow hair and clad in
tartan, came to Hector's bothie and asked for shelter and refreshment.
When the girl gave him a bowl of cream, he drank it off, and returned it
to her with a gold piece in it. The news quickly spread among the
shieling bothies that the stranger had gold about him. Soon after his
departure from Hector's hospitable roof next morning, a shot was heard,
and on a search being made the dead body of the young man was found,
robbed of all valuables. The murder and robbery were ascribed to a
crofter, whose name is well remembered, and whose descendants are still
at Letterewe, for from that time the family had money. It is almost
superfluous to add that no steps were taken to bring the murderer to
justice; the unsettled state of the Highlands at the time would alone
account for the immunity of the offender. It afterwards transpired that
the murdered stranger had been a valet or personal servant to Prince
Charlie, and that he had gone by the name of the "Gille Buidhe," or
"yellow-haired lad." He was conveying the gold to his master, which had
been sent from France, and it was to meet him that the two vessels had
come to Sgeir Bhoora, near Poolewe. It seems he carried the gold in one
end of his plaid, which had been formed into a temporary bag, an
expedient still often resorted to in the Highlands. A portion of the
Gille Buidhe's plaid formed the lining of a coat belonging to an old man
at Letterewe in the nineteenth century. Kenneth Mackenzie, an old man
living at Cliff (now dead), told me he had seen it.
The Gille Buidhe was not the only one to whom gold sent from France was
entrusted in order that it might be taken to Prince Charlie. Duncan
M'Rae, of Isle Ewe, who had been with the prince in his victorious days
in Edinburgh, and had there composed a song entitled "Oran na
Feannaige," received a small keg or cask of gold pieces for the use of
the prince. It was soon after the date of the murder of the Gille
Buidhe, that Duncan M'Rae and two other men brought the keg of gold
across Loch Ewe from Mellon Charles to Cove, and then hid it in the
Fedan Mor above Loch a Druing, where Duncan M'Rae, by means of the
"sian," caused the cask to become invisible. In Part II., chap, xiv.,
the superstition illustrated by this incident will be described. They
say the cask of gold still remains hidden in the Fedan Mor. Duncan M'Rae
was one of the faithful Highlanders who did all that could be done to
secure the prince's safety and serve his interests. It seems the
incident must have occurred after the prince had fled to Skye.
About the same time as the murder of the Gille Buidhe, one of the
men-of-war cruising in search of the prince came into the bay at
Flowerdale, and the captain sent word to Sir Alexander Mackenzie to come
on board. The latter thought he was quite as well ashore among his
people, so he sent his compliments to the captain, regretting he could
not accept his invitation, as he had friends to dine with him on the top
of Craig a chait (the high rocky hill behind Flowerdale House), where he
hoped the captain would join them. The reply was a broadside against the
house as the ship sailed off. One of the cannon balls, "apparently about
an 18 lb. shot," was sticking half out of the house gable next to the
sea in the youth of Dr Mackenzie (a great-grandson, still living, of Sir
Alexander's), who adds, that "had the cannon ball hit but a few feet
lower, it might have broken into a recess in the thickness of the gable,
the admittance to which was by raising the floor at a wall press in the
room above, although this had been forgotten, till masons, cutting an
opening for a gable door to the kitchen, broke into the recess, where
were many swords and guns. Then it was recollected that Fraser of Foyers
was long concealed by our ancestor, and, of course, in this black hole."
Sir Alexander consolidated the family estates, and was a shrewd man of
business. He was a kind landlord, and very popular with his people,
though the conditions in the leases he granted would probably be
considered oppressive in the present day. John Mackay, the celebrated
"blind piper" (son of Rorie, who had been piper to John Roy Mackenzie
and to his successors to the third generation), was piper and bard to
Sir Alexander, who seems to have loved a quiet home life. He died in
1766, aged sixty-five, and was buried with his ancestors in the little
chapel in the Gairloch churchyard.
He was succeeded by his eldest son Sir Alexander, tenth laird, who was
called in Gairloch "An Tighearna Ruadh," or Alastair Roy, from the
colour of his hair. He had also another _soubriquet_, viz., "An
Tighearna Crubach," which had reference to a physical defect. Like his
father, he travelled on the continent as a young man. Angus Mackay (son
of the "blind piper") was his piper, and Sir Alexander left Angus in
Edinburgh for tuition whilst he himself went abroad. This Sir Alexander
built Conan House, about 1758, during his father's lifetime, and it
still continues the principal residence of the baronets of Gairloch. He
was twice married, and had six children.
His second son John raised a company, almost entirely in Gairloch, of
the 78th regiment of Ross-shire Highlanders, when first embodied. He
obtained the captaincy, and was rapidly promoted, becoming colonel of
the regiment in 1795. He attained the rank of major-general in the army
in 1813, and full general in 1837. He served with distinction, and
without cessation, for thirty-five years, viz., from 1779 to 1814. From
his personal daring and valour he became known as "Fighting Jack," and
was adored by his men. He often said that it gave him greater pleasure
to see a dog from Gairloch than a gentleman from anywhere else. He died,
the father of the British army, on 14th June 1860, at the advanced age
of ninety-six.
Sir Alexander (tenth laird) left his estates burdened with debt. He died
on 15th April 1770 from the effects of a fall from his horse, and was
buried with his forefathers at Gairloch.
Sir Hector Mackenzie, eldest son of the tenth laird, became the fourth
baronet and eleventh laird of Gairloch. He was known among his people as
"An Tighearna Storach," or the buck-toothed laird. He succeeded to the
estates when a minor only twelve years of age. During the minority some
of the debts were paid off, and in 1789 Sir Hector sold several
properties (not in Gairloch) to pay off the balance of the debts. He
lived at home, and managed his estates himself; and though he kept open
house throughout the year at Conan and Gairloch, he was able to leave or
pay a considerable fortune to each of his sons. In 1815 he was appointed
lord-lieutenant of Ross-shire. He only visited London once in his life,
and appears to have divided his time nearly equally between Flowerdale
House and Conan, which he enlarged. He was adored by his people, to whom
he acted as father and friend. His character was distinguished by
kindness, urbanity, and frankness, and he was considered the most
sagacious and intelligent man in the county.
Though not tall, he was very strong, almost rivalling in this respect
his famous ancestor Hector Roy. (See the reference to his powerful grasp
in the account of Alexander Grant, the big bard of Slaggan.) Sir Hector
was a great angler. (See Appendix E.) A curious anecdote, shewing how
Sir Hector befriended his hereditary foe, Macleod of Raasay, will be
given in Part II., chap. xxv.
John Mackay (son of Angus), the last of the hereditary pipers of the
Gairloch family, was piper to Sir Hector, and Alexander Campbell was his
bard, in whose life (Part II., chap xx.) will be found an anecdote
illustrating Sir Hector's kindly disposition.
Sir Hector gave a great impetus to the Gairloch cod-fishing, which he
continued to encourage as long as he lived. Christian Lady Mackenzie
(Sir Hector's wife), who was called in Gairloch "A Bhantighearna Ruadh,"
seems to have been as much beloved as her husband. Sir Hector's fourth
son, Dr John Mackenzie of Eileanach, still survives, and is well known
as a thorough Highlander. A number of extracts from his MS. "Odd and End
Stories" are included in these pages. Sir Hector died on 26th April
1826, aged sixty-nine, and was buried in Beauly Priory.
Sir Francis Alexander was the fifth baronet and twelfth laird of
Gairloch. He followed the example of his father Sir Hector in his kindly
treatment of his tenantry, for whose benefit he published in 1838 the
book quoted further on, entitled "Hints for the Use of Highland Tenants
and Cottagers, by a Proprietor." Sir Alexander was a great sportsman and
practical farmer, and spent a considerable part of each year at
Flowerdale House.
By his first wife Sir Francis had two sons, viz., Kenneth Smith, the
present baronet; and Mr Francis Harford Mackenzie. By his second wife he
had one son, Mr Osgood Hanbury Mackenzie of Inverewe, who has largely
assisted in the preparation of this book. Sir Francis died on 2d June
1843, aged forty-four. His widow, the Dowager Lady Mackenzie of
Gairloch, now resides at Tournaig, in the parish of Gairloch.
Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie, the sixth baronet and thirteenth laird of
Gairloch, succeeded to the estates when a minor. Following the example
of his immediate ancestors, he takes the lead in all local and county
matters. Like his grandfather he is lord-lieutenant of his native
county. He deals personally with his tenantry. His principal residence
is Conan House, but he spends a portion of every year at Flowerdale in
Gairloch. He was a member of the Royal Commission appointed 22d March
1883 to inquire into the condition of the crofters and cottars in the
Highlands and Islands of Scotland. This is not the place to offer any
encomium on the present baronet of Gairloch, but it may be mentioned
that the historian of the Mackenzies, himself a native of the parish,
states that Sir Kenneth is "universally admitted to be one of the best
landlords in the Highlands." Sir Kenneth married, in 1860, Eila
Frederica, daughter of the late Walter Frederick Campbell of Islay.
There have been several collateral families of Mackenzies in Gairloch,
to whom some reference must be made.
The Mackenzies of Letterewe were descended from Charles, the eldest son
of Kenneth Mackenzie, sixth laird of Gairloch, by his third wife. By his
father's marriage-contract Charles Mackenzie got Logie Wester, which in
1696 he exchanged with his half-brother Alexander, the seventh laird of
Gairloch, for the lands of Letterewe. Letterewe continued in this family
until Hector Mackenzie, in 1835, sold the estate to the late Mr Meyrick
Bankes of Winstanley Hall, Lancashire. The present representative of the
Letterewe family is Mr Charles Mackenzie, a lawyer in the United States
of America; their representative in this country is Mr John Munro
Mackenzie, of Morinish and Calgary. The present Letterewe House is an
enlargement of the older residence of this family.
The Mackenzies of Lochend, or Kinloch (now Inverewe), sprang from John
Mackenzie of Lochend, third son of Alexander, the seventh laird of
Gairloch, by his second wife. They were tacksmen of Lochend, which
belonged to the Coul Mackenzies, by whom it was ultimately sold to Mr
Osgood H. Mackenzie in 1863. The old Lochend House stood where the
walled garden of the present Inverewe House is.
The Mackenzies of Gruinard sprang from John Mackenzie, a natural son of
George, second earl of Seaforth and fourteenth laird of Kintail, who,
with Captain Hector Mackenzie, conveyed the news of the defeat of the
Royalists by Oliver Cromwell at the battle of Worcester, in 1651, to his
father in Holland, where the latter was at that time living in exile.
This family produced several distinguished soldiers, especially
Alexander, a colonel in the army, who served with the 36th Regiment
throughout the Peninsular War. John Mackenzie, the fifth laird of
Gruinard, who was a captain in the 73d Regiment, sold the property,
which included Little Gruinard, Udrigil, and Sand, all in the parish of
Gairloch, to the late Henry Davidson of Tulloch, who resold it to Mr
Meyrick Bankes. William Mackenzie, the sixth head of this family, was a
captain in the 72d Regiment, and is said to have been the handsomest man
in his day in the Highlands. The Gruinard family increased rapidly. The
first laird had eight sons and eight daughters, who all married. George,
the second laird of Gruinard, was twice married; by his first wife he
had fourteen sons and nine daughters, and by his second wife four sons
and six daughters,--making the extraordinary total of thirty-three
children, nineteen of whom at least are known to have married, and most
of them into the best families of the north. The Gruinard family resided
at Udrigil House, and subsequently at Aird House, both of which they
built.
There was a family of Mackenzies settled at Kernsary who were descended
from Murdo Mackenzie, fifth son of Colin Cam, the eleventh lord of
Kintail. Murdo had a son and daughter. The son was killed in 1645 at the
battle of Auldearn, where he commanded the Lews Mackenzie regiment.
In the seventeenth century the Rev. Kenneth Mackenzie, from Bute,
purchased the Kernsary estate from the Mackenzies of Coul, to whom it
then belonged. He was an Episcopalian clergyman, and held services in
the little Inverewe church at the place now called Londubh, on the
Kernsary estate, close to which he lived in the house now occupied by
James Mackenzie. He married a daughter of Mackenzie of Letterewe. They
had a son Roderick, who succeeded to the Kernsary property; so did his
son Roderick. This second Roderick married Mary, sister of Mackenzie of
Ballone; she was a beauty, and was known as Mali Chruinn Donn. Their son
Alexander sold Kernsary to the Seaforth family some fifty years ago; his
son, the Rev. Hector Mackenzie, was minister of Moy, and died a few
years back.
In bringing to a close this account of the Mackenzies of Gairloch, their
history and present position may be summarised thus:--A strong offshoot
of the family of the earls of Ross separated from the parent stock, and
having taken root in Kintail, developed into the illustrious family of
the Kintail or Seaforth Mackenzies. Again, a vigorous branch of the
Kintail Mackenzies took root in Gairloch, and culminated in the present
series of the baronets of Gairloch. The earls of Ross disappeared
centuries ago, and the family of Seaforth has become extinct in the
direct male line, whilst their estates have melted away. The Gairloch
family remain, and their fine property has increased in value. Although
the present baronet does not claim the chieftainship of the whole clan,
which is believed to belong to a more remote offshoot of the Kintail
family, that dignity is now but a name, and Sir Kenneth Mackenzie of
Gairloch is to-day the most influential and distinguished of the great
Mackenzie race.
The crest of the Gairloch Mackenzies is the figure of Donald Odhar,
though some lairds of Gairloch have used the general crest of the
Mackenzies, viz., the Cabar Feidh, or stag's head and horns. The badge
of the Mackenzies is the deer grass, or stag's horn moss. Their war-cry
or slogan is "Tulloch-ard," the name of a mountain in Kintail. This
mountain has sometimes been used as a crest with the "warning flame" on
its summit, representing the beacon whence the clan was apprised of
danger.
Of pipe music the following tunes have been stated to be specially
appropriated to the Mackenzies:--
Marches: Cabar Feidh and Gabhaidh sinn an rathad mor, usually called,
"The high road to Gairloch."
Salute: Failte Uilleam Dhuibh (Black William's salute).
Gathering: Co-thional (Mackenzie's gathering).
Lament: Cumha Thighearna Ghearrloch (Laird of Gairloch's lament).
A list of the Mackenzie lairds of Gairloch is given in Table V.
Chapter XV.
GAIRLOCH ESTATES, AND OLD NAMES OF PLACES.
An account must be given here of the ways in which the different parts
of the parish of Gairloch came into the hands of the present
proprietors. It shall be brief. Some notes on old names of places are
included.
Hector Roy Mackenzie is said, in an old MS., to have possessed, among
other properties, "Kenlochewe, a district adjoining to Gairloch on the
east." But after his time it belonged to the lords of Kintail, and
subsequently to the Mackenzies of Coul, from whom Sir Alexander
Mackenzie, ninth laird of Gairloch, purchased it in 1743, with the
proceeds of the sale of Glas Leitire, in Kintail. Kenlochewe has
belonged to the Gairloch baronets since that date. It extends from the
west end of Loch Rosque to the water flowing from Glen Torridon past the
village of Kenlochewe into the head of Loch Maree, and to a burn running
down Slioch on the north-east side of that loch; it also extends six
miles on the road from Kenlochewe village to Torridon.
Gairloch itself became the property of Hector Roy under charters from
the crown, and has ever since remained the possession of the Gairloch
Mackenzies. In the earliest document of title extant, a protocol from
John de Vaux, sheriff of Inverness, dated 10th December 1494, "the
landis of Gerloch," granted to Hector, and of which the sheriff gave him
possession by that protocol, are described as "lyande betwix the
watteris callyde Innerew and Torvedene, within the Shireffdome of
Innerness." The boundaries thus stated for Gairloch are the waters of
Ewe, _i.e._ Loch Maree, the river Ewe, and Loch Ewe on the north, and
Torridon on the south. The sheriff's protocol was sealed at
"Alydyll"--no doubt Talladale--"in Garloch," and that place has always
formed part of Gairloch, as have also the islands of Loch Maree.
The retour, in 1566, of Alexander, second son of John Glassich
Mackenzie, specifies "the lands of Garloch" as including "Garloch,
Kirktoun, Syldage, Hamgildail, Malefage, Innerasfidill, Sandecorran,
Cryf, Baddichro, Bein-Sanderis, Meall, Allawdill." Kirktoun seems to
have been the designation of the place now called Charlestown, near
Flowerdale, being near the old Gairloch church; Syldage represents
Shieldaig; Malefage, Melvaig; Innerasfidill, Inverasdale; Sandecorran,
Big Sand (of Gairloch); Cryf, Cliff (Poolewe); Baddichro, Badachro;
Meall, Miole or Strath; and Allawdill must be Talladale. Hamgildail no
longer exists.
In 1638 "Kenneth McKeinzie of Garloch was served heir male to his
father, Alexander McKeinzie of Garloche, in the lands and barony of
Garloche, including Kirktoun, with the manor place and gardens of the
same, Sildag [Shieldaig], the two Oyngadellis [same as Hamgildail, in
the retour of 1566], Mailfog [Melvaig], Debak [Diabaig], Inneraspedell
[Inverasdale], Sandacarrane [Sandacarran, or Big Sand], Badichro
[Badachro], the two Sandis [north side of Loch Gairloch], Erredell
[Erradale], Telledill [Talladale], Clive [Cliff, Poolewe], Tollie [same
as now], and the two Nastis [Naast]; the lands of Ellenow [Isle of Ewe],
Auldgressan [Altgreshan], with the waters and salmon fishings of Kerrie
and Badechro, the half of the water of Ew, and the salmon fishings of
the same, Achetcairne [Achtercairn], Meoll [Miole, or Strath], with the
mill, Udroll, the loch of Loch Maroy [Loch Maree], with the islands of
the same, and the manor place and gardens in the island of Ilinroy
[Eilean Ruaridh], the loch of Garloch with the fishings of the same,
with other lands in Ross, all united into the barony of Garloche and the
town of Clive [Poolewe], with the harbour and shore of the same being
part of the same barony of Garloch erected into a burgh of barony." This
must have been a list of the inhabited places on the Gairloch estate two
hundred and fifty years ago.
In a Dutch map of Ross-shire, by the famous geographer Blaeu, engraved
by Pont, and dated 1662, kindly lent me by Mr D. William Kemp, some of
the old Gairloch names are given with curious spellings. This map of
Ross-shire purports to have been made by "R. Gordonius a Strath-loch."
The map shows Telladull, Slotadull, Tawy, Yl Ew, Ruymakilvandrich,
Dunast, Inner-Absdill, Melvag, Sanda, Erdull, Viroill, Meall,
Achagacharn, Heglis Gherloch, Knokintoull, Ingadill, Shilkag, Padechry,
Erradill, Typack (Diabaig), Ardetisag. Rudha Reidh is called Rowna Ra;
the island of Longa is called Yl Lunga; the sea-loch of Gairloch is
called Gher Loch; Loch Maree is called Loch Ew, which name is also given
to the present Loch Ew, and the Garavaig river is called Alt Finnag.
This last name seems to be for Allt Feannaige, or "the burn of the
hoodie crow," a bird which still frequents the locality. These are all
the names given on what was the original Gairloch estate. Of other names
within the parish of Gairloch there are Inner Ew, Turnag, Drumnachoirk,
Badfern, Oudergill, Sanda, Inoran, Ardlarich, Achabuy, Letyr Ew, Fowlis,
Smirsary, Pinesdale, Achanaloisk, Glenmuik, Lecachy, Glen-dochart,
Glas-Letyr, Heglis-loch-ew (apparently where Culinellan now is), and
Groudy. The only mountain named is Bin Cherkyr. A large island on Loch
Maree has the name Sow, probably intended for Suainne, which island had
then previously been a residence of Alastair Breac, laird of Gairloch.
Lochs Finn [Fionn loch], Dow [Dubh loch], Garavad [east of Letterewe],
Fadd, and Clair, are the only lochs with names. It is curious that such
places as Kenlochewe and Clive [Poolewe] are not named on this old map.
The names that are given are very instructive when compared with the
names in the old records just quoted. Ruymakilvandrich is not found
elsewhere; it seems to be intended for Rudha Mac Gille Aindreas, or "the
point of the son of Gillanders," _i.e._ of the servant of Andrew, and is
applied to a small headland near Boor; it doubtless had reference to
some incident long ago forgotten. Dunast [Dun Naast] is still the name
of a rock close to Naast; from this name being given instead of Naast,
it may be inferred that in the seventeenth century there was some part
of the dun that stood there still remaining The names Heglis Gherloch,
Heglis-loch-ew, Knokintoull, and Achanaloisk, do not occur elsewhere,
either in old descriptions or modern nomenclature. Viroill seems to be
the same as Udroll in the description of 1638. The map shows it where
Lonmor now is. The other names are easily identified. The place called
Ingadill on this old map, Hamgildail in the retour of 1566, and
Oyngadellis in 1638, has now entirely disappeared; it seems to have been
at the mouth of the river Kerry. The map gives only two churches in
Gairloch parish, viz., Heglis Gherloch, near where the present Gairloch
church now stands, and Heglis-loch-ew, at the head of Loch Maree. The
names of places given on the map most likely indicate the most populous
localities at that date. Some of the names are spelt phonetically; thus
Bin is the Gaelic pronunciation of Beinn, and Finn is still the
pronunciation by the natives of the name of Fionn loch.
Alexander Mackenzie, seventh laird of Gairloch, bought the second half
of the water of Ewe and Mellon Charles in 1671. The precise extent of
this purchase does not appear. Mellon Charles still belongs to the
Gairloch Mackenzies, as well as Isle Ewe, and the whole right to the
salmon fishings of Loch Ewe, the River Ewe, and Loch Maree. To finish
with the Gairloch estate of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, the present baronet,
it may be mentioned that the Kernsary estate was purchased from the
Seaforth family in 1844, very early in Sir Kenneth's minority, and was
resold by his trustees to his half-brother Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie, in
1862, with the exception of the strip of territory extending from
Inveran to Londubh on the north-east bank of the river Ewe, which, with
Gairloch proper, Kenlochewe, Mellon Charles, and the Isle of Ewe,
completes Sir Kenneth's possessions in the parish of Gairloch. They form
a noble estate, which comprises more than three-fourths of the whole
parish.
Letterewe unquestionably belonged to the Kintail or Seaforth family up
to and including the early part of the seventeenth century. It was
either acquired by Kenneth, sixth laird of Gairloch, at the time (about
1648) when he became cautioner for the Earl of Seaforth in a bond for
five thousand merks, or else later on (in 1671) by his son Alexander as
part of his acquisition of the second half of the water of Ewe. In 1696
this Alexander gave up Letterewe to his brother Charles in exchange for
Wester Logie. Charles became the progenitor of the family of Mackenzie
of Letterewe, who possessed the property until 1835, when it was sold to
the late Mr Meyrick Bankes, whose daughter Mrs Liot Bankes is the
present liferenter of it. It extends from Slioch, along the shore of
Loch Maree, to a burn between Ardlair and Inveran, and back to Fionn
loch. With Letterewe is held the old Gruinard estate; it includes all
the lands on the promontory called the Greenstone Point, except Mellon
Charles. The older annals of this property are complex, and need not be
fully narrated here. It came into the possession of the Gruinard
Mackenzies before 1655, and continued in the same family until 1795,
when it was sold to Henry Davidson of Tulloch, who again sold it to the
late Mr Bankes, about 1835, along with the other parts of the Gruinard
estate to the south of the Meikle Gruinard river. Mrs Liot Bankes is
also liferenter of this property: it forms, with Letterewe, a fine
estate, which covers just one-sixth of the parish of Gairloch.
The remaining property in Gairloch parish is that of Mr Osgood H.
Mackenzie. It includes Kernsary (except the strip on the north-east side
of the Ewe, which, as before stated, is Sir Kenneth's), Lochend or
Inverewe, and Tournaig. Kernsary, as we have seen, was, after belonging
to more than one family, purchased by Sir Kenneth's trustees in 1844,
and sold by them to Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie in 1862. It was bought from
the Seaforth family, who had acquired it as providing a port at Londubh,
from which the island of the Lews, then their estate, was accessible.
The Lochend and Tournaig properties were in 1863 purchased by Mr Osgood
H. Mackenzie from Sir William Mackenzie of Coul, to whom they had come
after having had a succession of proprietors. These and Kernsary now
constitute Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie's charming estate of Inverewe, about
one-sixteenth of the whole parish of Gairloch.
Chapter XVI.
ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY OF GAIRLOCH.
The chronological order of events, otherwise pretty closely adhered to
in Part I., will be necessarily broken in this and the following
chapters.
When we first hear of a church in Gairloch it was dedicated, as we
should naturally expect, to St Maelrubha. It was a common kirk of the
canons of Ross, and stood in what is still called the churchyard of
Gairloch. The priests probably lived in the Temple house, as it was long
called, which is now the dwelling of the head-gardener at Flowerdale.
Possibly the little churches of Inverewe (now Londubh) and of Sand of
Udrigil existed in pre-Reformation times, but they are not named in the
Dutch map of 1662. There is a church shewn on that map called "Heglis
Loch Ew," _i.e._ the church of Lochewe; it is at the head of Loch Maree,
and was probably at Culinellan, near Kenlochewe. The map does not of
course prove that this church existed before the Reformation, but it
adds to the probability that it did so. It would be convenient of access
for the monastics of Applecross. Little is known of the church history
of Gairloch before the Reformation, which was consummated in Scotland
about 1560.
Sir John Broik was rector of Gairloch at the time of the Reformation,
and continued so until his death in 1583.
In 1560 Presbyterianism was established in Scotland, but it does not
appear to have materially differed from the Episcopalianism it
displaced, or rather absorbed, for it had superintendents whose office
closely resembled that of bishops.
In 1572 the titles of archbishop and bishop were introduced, and a form
of Episcopacy established. The bishops, however, enjoyed but a small
portion of the benefices, and were known as "Tulchan bishops." The
origin of this epithet "tulchan," is curious:--When a calf died and the
cow thereupon refused to give her milk, the skin of the calf was
stretched on a wickerwork frame and moved about to make the cow believe
it was sucking, whilst the maid was really taking the milk; the sham
calf was called "Tulachan."
In 1592 Presbyterianism was restored by Parliament; and in 1598
Episcopacy was reintroduced.
In 1641 King Charles I. sanctioned Presbyterianism; and in 1643 the
Westminster Assembly met, and the Solemn League and Covenant was signed.
In 1649 King Charles I. was beheaded, and James Grahame, Lord Montrose,
began his struggle in behalf of the king and the cause of Episcopacy.
In 1651 Charles II. was crowned at Scone, and signed the Covenant. On
the Restoration in 1660 Episcopacy was re-established.
In 1689, immediately after the Revolution, Presbyterianism was finally
established.
These changes from Episcopacy to Presbyterianism, and _vice versâ_, had
very little effect in the Highlands, where the clergy and people long
clung to Episcopacy; only one or two keen Covenanters on the east coast
maintained Presbyterianism. The change in the government of the church
was so slight, that in the days of Episcopacy the bishop, when present,
presided as moderator over the Presbytery, which then consisted, as now,
of the ministers and elders within the bounds. It was not until well
into the eighteenth century that Presbyterianism became popular in
Gairloch, and even then it does not appear to have introduced any great
changes in the church, or in the form of worship. The principal
Christian festivals were observed in Gairloch until the nineteenth
century.
A list of all the ministers of Gairloch, with the dates of their
presentation, will be found in Table IV. There are a few facts and
anecdotes about several of them, which are worth recording here.
The Rev. Alexander Mackenzie was in 1583 presented to the parsonage and
vicarage of Gairloch, vacant by the decease of Sir John Broik. Mr
Mackenzie was vicar of Gairloch in 1590. He was the first vicar of
Gairloch appointed after the Reformation.
In 1608 the Rev. Farquhar MacRae was appointed vicar of Gairloch by
Bishop Leslie of Ross. He is referred to in our account of the old
ironworks of Loch Maree, and some passages of his life are given in
Appendix A. He was one of the Macraes of Kintail. In 1610 he was sent by
Lord Mackenzie of Kintail on a mission to the Lews, with the most
beneficial results. Though he continued his ministerial work in Gairloch
until 1618, and though in his biography he is said to have been minister
of Gairloch for ten years, yet his official position as such seems to
have terminated sooner, for we find that some time before 1614 the Rev.
Farquhar Mackenzie, who had "laureated" at the University of Edinburgh
on 31st July 1606, was admitted minister of Gairloch. Probably Mr MacRae
restricted his ministrations to those parts of Gairloch to the north of
Loch Maree and Loch Ewe, which were then generally considered as in Loch
Broom parish.
In 1649 the Rev. Roderick Mackenzie, third son of Roderick Mackenzie of
Knock-backster, was admitted minister of Gairloch, and continued so
until his death in March 1710, after an incumbency of sixty-one years.
He seems to have been a man of quiet easy-going temperament. When he
came to Gairloch Presbyterianism ruled; when Episcopacy was established
in 1660, he conformed; and when the Revolution put an end to Episcopacy,
he became a Presbyterian again. "Whatsoever king may reign, still I'll
be vicar of Bray, sir!" The extracts from the presbytery records of the
period, given in the first section of Appendix F, shew how careless this
worthy minister was to obey the mandates of the presbytery. He married a
sister of the laird of Knockbain, and had a son, Kenneth, born about
1703.
Some time during the seventeenth century the Rev. Kenneth Mackenzie, an
Episcopalian clergyman, came from Bute, and bought the Kernsary estate.
He resided in the proprietor's house at Kirkton, still standing close to
the present Inverewe churchyard in Londubh, and officiated in the old
church there, some remains of which are still to be seen. His
great-great-grandson, the late Rev. Hector Mackenzie, minister of Moy,
stated, some few years ago, that he remembered his grandmother Mrs
Mackenzie of Kernsary (called Mali Chruinn Donn) shewing him an old
prayer-book in an oak chest at the house at Kirkton, and that she said
the chest and prayer-book had belonged to his ancestor who bought
Kernsary. A loose stone may be seen in the part of the ruined church
which was used as the burial-place of the Kernsary family; it is
inscribed "K M K 1678," and is believed to have recorded the date when
the Rev. Kenneth Mackenzie built or restored the little church. Possibly
this clergyman chose Gairloch as a comparatively safe refuge for an
Episcopalian in the covenanting times, and his services were most likely
purely voluntary, and not intended to compete with those of the minister
of the parish; or he may have voluntarily taken the place of Mr Farquhar
MacRae as minister for those parts of Gairloch which were considered to
be in Loch Broom parish.
The Rev. John Morrison became minister of Gairloch 1st March 1711.
Although Presbyterianism had now been established for more than twenty
years, it appears that some of Mr Morrison's parishioners still clung to
Episcopacy, and in consequence the poor man had a bad time of it.
At the first meeting of the presbytery after his admission, Mr Morrison
presented a petition, stating "that after two days sojourn, in going to
preach, he was interrupted at Kenlochewe by the tenants of Sir John
Mackenzie of Coul, who had laid violent hands on him and his servant,
rent his clothes, made prisoners of them, and kept them three days under
guard in a cottage full of cattle and dung, without meat or bedding the
first two days, the tenants relieving one another in turn by a fresh
supply every day. On the third day a short supply was allowed, but they
were yet kept prisoners in the same place without other accommodation.
When the fifth day came Mr John was carried to Sir John's house, who
declared no Presbyterian should be settled in any place where his
influence extended, unless Her Majesty's forces did it by the strong
hand."
Another example of the persecution of Mr Morrison is traditional in
Gairloch. He was travelling on the east side of Loch Maree, and when at
Letterewe was attacked by the inhabitants, who seized him, and having
stripped him naked, bound him to a tree, where they left him. This would
be about September 1711, and the midges were in full force. The
sufferings of poor Mr Morrison are said to have been dreadful. Towards
evening a woman of the place took pity on him and released him from his
miserable position. Thus set free he escaped, and it was some time
before he again visited his parish. It is a saying in Gairloch, that
there has never been a really pious holy man in Letterewe since this
outrage on a minister of the gospel was committed there!
Having thus no access to his parish, Mr Morrison, and a neighbouring
clergyman who was in a similar plight, fled to Sutherland on 7th
November 1711. On the petition of George Mackenzie of Gruinard, who "had
built a little church at Udrigil at his own expense," Mr Morrison agreed
(8th April 1713) to preach there once a year at least.
On 23d October 1716 Mr Morrison represented his grievances to the
presbytery, and solicited an "act of transportation," or, in other
words, prayed to be transferred to some other parish. On 12th November
1716 he stated that, "having no glebe, manse, or legal maintenance, he
was obliged to take a tack of land, and that for three or four years
successively his crops were destroyed by cattle. In the time of the
rebellion the best of his cattle were taken away by the rebels, and very
lately his house plundered of all provision to the value of four hundred
merks." His solicitation was granted 14th November 1716, and he was
transferred to Urray. It is said that the "tack of land" Mr Morrison
took was in Tollie bay, and that he built a humble dwelling for himself
close to the shore of Loch Maree. This was in the latter days of his
short incumbency, after his return from Sutherlandshire. He conducted
services in a turf-built church which stood by the shingly beach in
Tollie bay. Old people now living say that they remember seeing the
remains of the turf walls of Mr Morrison's church. Here is a curious
story of this period:--It was nearly Christmas, probably in 1715, and
whisky was required for the hospitality of the season. No whisky was
made in Gairloch until long after this, but in Ferintosh, on the other
side of Ross-shire, there was plenty of whisky distilled. Mr Morrison
had a brother Rorie, who was also a minister. Rorie is said to have been
the minister of Urray. If so, he must either have died about 1716, or
have resigned to make room for his brother on the sudden transfer of the
latter from Gairloch to Urray in that year. Early one morning the Rev.
John Morrison sent off a man from Tollie with a horse to his brother at
Urray for two casks of whisky. The man reached the brother's house the
same night. Rorie determined to play a trick on his brother, so when his
brother's man was out of the way he made his own servants fill the two
casks with water-gruel instead of whisky. Next day the man returned to
Tollie, believing the casks to be full of whisky. It was Christmas eve
when he reached Tollie, and a party was assembled to celebrate the
festivities of the season. But when the casks were opened there was no
whisky,--only water-gruel!
The Rev. James Smith, after an interregnum of five years caused by the
difficulty of finding a clergyman willing to undertake the charge of
this wild parish, succeeded Mr Morrison in 1721. In his day the
Presbytery of Gairloch was erected. A sum of £1000 was allowed him by
the Assembly, and the heritors or proprietors of the parish provided a
manse with garden and glebe, and erected churchyard dykes. Mr Smith was
a man of energy, and effected much in the way of reforming the morals of
his people and spreading religion among them. In 1725 he had a
missionary catechist at work, and he established a presbyterial library.
In 1724 a school was established in Gairloch by the Society for
Propagating Christian Knowledge, but was removed to Strathglass in 1728
for want of encouragement by the people. However, the first parochial
school in Gairloch was in operation before Mr Smith's removal.
Though under Mr Smith Presbyterianism appears to have made way in
Gairloch, it was otherwise in the contiguous parish of Lochcarron. The
hero of the following incident is said to have been the Rev. Mr Sage,
first Presbyterian minister of Lochcarron. He was settled in Lochcarron
in 1727, and in 1731 prayed the presbytery for "an act of
transportability." Mr Sage, who was a very powerful man, was travelling
on foot to Gairloch _viâ_ Glen Torridon, accompanied by his servant, a
mere boy, who carried the "bonnet" which held the provisions for the
way. Two of Mr Sage's parishioners had conspired to put an end to his
life. They followed him, and after a time joined company, beguiling the
way with conversation, until a fit place should be reached for the
carrying out of the projected murder. When they came to the burn of the
Black Corrie the minister announced that the luncheon hour had arrived,
and asked his parishioners to join him. He took the "bonnet" from the
boy, and began to dispense the viands. The would-be assassins seated
themselves quite close to the minister, one on either side, and the
leader now at last mustered pluck enough to inform Mr Sage that he had
been condemned to die, and that his hour had come. The powerful minister
instantly threw an arm round the neck of each of the villains, and
squeezed their heads downwards against each other and upon his own
thighs with paralysing force, holding them thus until they were on the
verge of suffocation, when, in response to their abject screams for
mercy and promises of safety for himself, he released them from his
strong pressure, and they went away both better and wiser, let us hope,
for this display of the good minister's muscular Christianity.
The Rev. Æneas M'Aulay was minister of Gairloch from 1732 to 1758. He
had bad health, and was often absent from his parish. He employed a
catechist.
The Rev. John Dounie was minister of Gairloch from 1758 to 1773. In his
time Mr Thomas Pennant visited Poolewe (Appendix B). He heard Mr Dounie
preach in the church at Tollie Croft, or Cruive End, and stayed the
night with him in the manse at Cliff, Poolewe. Pennant, in the preface
to his "Tour," speaks in high terms of Mr Dounie.
The Rev. Daniel Mackintosh, who succeeded Mr Dounie, seems to have been
in smooth waters, and religion flourished in his time. His incumbency
extended from 1773 to his death in 1802. He wrote the paper on Gairloch
in the Old Statistical Account (Appendix C), from which we learn that
there was no division or dissent in the parish. He was greatly assisted
in his labours by the support of the generous and enlightened baronet of
Gairloch, Sir Hector Mackenzie, and his wife the beloved lady of
Gairloch.
The Rev. James Russell was minister of Gairloch from 1802 to 1844. Some
objection was made to his appointment on account of his imperfect
Gaelic; but he was found to be advancing in his knowledge of the
language. Notwithstanding his progress, some amusing stories are still
told in Gairloch of the ludicrous mistakes he used to make in his Gaelic
sermons. For instance, intending to mention the two she-bears that came
out of the wood and tare the children who mocked Elisha, he used Gaelic
words which made the animals to be she roebucks! Up to and during Mr.
Russell's time the education of children in Gairloch, and the correction
of adults for offences against morals, were in the hands of the
presbytery. In 1825 the presbytery, having instructed Mr. Russell to
deal with one of his parishioners charged with immorality, found that he
was too remiss in so dealing, and suspended him from the office of the
ministry. He appealed to the General Assembly, who reinstated him, and
warned the presbytery to act with greater caution in future towards its
members in such cases. The separate ecclesiastical (or "quoad sacra")
parish of Poolewe was formed during Mr Russell's incumbency. The Rev.
Donald MacRae was presented to the new church of Poolewe in 1830, though
the separate parish was not declared to be such until an Act of Assembly
on 25th May 1833, and was not erected by the Court of Teinds until 3d
December 1851.
The Rev. Donald MacRae wrote the paper on Gairloch in the New
Statistical Account (Appendix E).
In 1843 the secession from the Established Church of Scotland, usually
termed the "Disruption," occurred, and the Free Church was formed. Mr
MacRae seceded to the Free Church.
Mr Russell died in 1844, having been forty-two years minister of
Gairloch. On the departure of his successor from Gairloch, the Rev. D.
S. Mackenzie, the present minister of Gairloch, was appointed in 1850.
On the establishment of Presbyterianism, Gairloch was in the Presbytery
of Dingwall. Several minutes show the difficulties in the way of the
ministers of Gairloch attending the meetings of presbytery, and of
members of presbytery visiting Gairloch. Minutes of the presbyteries
relating to these and other matters in Gairloch are extracted in
Appendix F.
Sometime between July 1668 and June 1672 there seems to have been
nominally a Presbytery of Kenlochewe, but it does not appear that this
presbytery ever met, and there are no records of it extant. In 1672
Gairloch was reannexed to the Presbytery of Dingwall by the bishop and
synod.
On 4th September 1683 the "Highland churches," including Gairloch, were
annexed to the Presbytery of Chanonry. This step appears to have been
intended as a punishment to the ministers of the Highland parishes for
their non-attendance at meetings of the Presbytery of Dingwall. Thus for
a time Gairloch was no doubt in the Presbytery of Chanonry, but there is
no other reference to the fact in the ecclesiastical history of the
period. This was during the long incumbency of the Rev. Roderick
Mackenzie, whose isolated position in Gairloch seems to have rendered
him indifferent to the action of the presbytery.
On 19th May 1724 the Presbytery of Gairloch was erected by the General
Assembly. This presbytery was composed of the same parishes as now
constitute the Presbytery of Lochcarron. The meetings of presbytery were
held at different places,--Kenlochewe, Gairloch, and Poolewe are
mentioned.
In 1773 an Act of the General Assembly ordained that the Presbytery of
Gairloch should be called in all time coming the Presbytery of
Lochcarron, and Gairloch and Poolewe remain to this day in that
presbytery.
The old parish church of Gairloch, dedicated to St Maelrubha, stood, as
we have seen, in the churchyard of Gairloch, which is now used as the
parish burial-ground. There was a church in existence here before 1628,
for we find from an old document that Alastair Breac, fifth laird of
Gairloch, had caused a chapel to be built "near the church" of Gairloch,
during his father's lifetime, where he and his wife, and no doubt also
his father John Roy Mackenzie, were buried. According to the Rev. Daniel
Mackintosh, in the Old Statistical Account, the Gairloch church of his
day had existed for "more than a century," so that it must have been
erected in the middle or latter part of the seventeenth
century,--possibly by John Roy or Alastair Breac; it stood most likely
on the same site as the original church. In 1727 Mr Smith, minister of
Gairloch, got the heritors of the parish to erect churchyard dykes. In
1751 the Rev. Æneas M'Aulay is said to have got a new church built. It
must have been a frail structure, for in 1791 it had fallen into a
ruinous condition; it was a thatched building. James Mackenzie says,
that about 1788, when his mother was attending the parish school at
Strath of Gairloch, under the tuition of William Ross, the Gairloch
bard, she and other girls went one day during the dinner hour to the old
church. The children opened the church door, when, from some cause or
other--very likely only a puff of wind--the door closed in their faces
with a bang, and they got a great fright!
The present Gairloch church was erected in 1791, and repaired in 1834.
The little church at Sand of Udrigil, which we may call the chapel of
Sand, is commonly believed to have been originally erected by St Columba
himself. In 1713 George Mackenzie of Gruinard, who is said to have built
a little church at Udrigil, prayed Mr Morrison, the refugee minister of
Gairloch, to preach there. Whether this was the same church we cannot be
sure; tradition says George Mackenzie only thatched and repaired the
ancient church. After this time the ministers of Gairloch periodically
preached at this little church until at least the end of the eighteenth
century.
There was an old church at Culinellan near Kenlochewe; the date of its
erection is uncertain. The Rev. Daniel Mackintosh, in his paper in the
Old Statistical Account, refers to this place of worship as existing in
1792.
[Illustration: CHAPEL OF SAND OF UDRIGIL.]
The church at Tollie Croft, now called Cruive End, is not likely to have
been of any antiquity. In 1733 the kirk-session of Gairloch petitioned
the presbytery to enlarge the "chapel at Pollew," and the presbytery
agreed to do so. This was probably the place of worship at Tollie Croft
close to Poolewe. It was no doubt the church where Mr Thomas Pennant
heard the Rev. John Dounie preach in 1772, for it was close to the place
where he would land from his boat on Loch Maree (see Appendix B); the
Rev. D. Mackintosh mentioned it in 1792. Old people now living remember
the Rev. James Russell preaching in this little church as lately as
1826. At that time Duncan Mackenzie, the innkeeper at Poolewe,
previously butler to Sir Hector Mackenzie at Flowerdale House, used to
read the Scriptures to the people in the Cruive End church pending Mr
Russell's arrival from Gairloch. This church would be very convenient
for the minister of Gairloch when he had his manse only a mile away at
Cliff, Poolewe, as was the case between 1759 and 1803.
The turf-built church in Tollie bay, where the Rev. J. Morrison used to
hold his humble services, was only a temporary expedient during his
short and troublous incumbency.
The old chapel of Inverewe, on the east side of the river Ewe, close to
the former mansion-house of the Kernsary estate, seems to belong to the
seventeenth century, judging from the appearance its ruins now present,
but there is no record whatever of its history. The Rev. Kenneth
Mackenzie, proprietor of Kernsary, preached there, as we have seen,
during some part of the seventeenth century.
The present church of Poolewe was completed in 1828.
If there was a rectory, parsonage, or manse in Gairloch before the
Reformation, it must have then ceased to be church property. The Rev.
Farquhar MacRae, who became vicar of Gairloch about 1608, lived at
Ardlair, on the north-eastern shore of Loch Maree. Ardlair is near
Letterewe, where dwelt the ironworkers for whose special behoof Mr
MacRae was sent to Gairloch by Lord Mackenzie of Kintail; and it may
have been part of the arrangement under which Sir George Hay acquired
the woods of Letterewe from Lord Mackenzie for the ironworks, that his
lordship should allow Mr MacRae the use of a house at Ardlair, which was
also on his property.
Poor Mr Morrison, in 1711-16, had no glebe, manse, or legal maintenance,
and his hut in Tollie bay was on land leased by himself.
In 1728 a manse and glebe were provided by the heritors for the minister
of Gairloch at Achdistall, near where the Gairloch hotel now stands.
In 1759 the presbytery exchanged the glebe at Achdistall for other land
at Clive, or Cliff, close to Poolewe, and a manse was shortly after
erected on the new glebe.
In 1803 the old glebe of Clive was exchanged by the presbytery for a
portion of the lands of Miole at Strath of Gairloch, and a new manse was
erected at once. This is the present manse of Gairloch; it was added to
in 1823, when Hugh Miller, then a mason, took part in the work. His
experience in Gairloch at that time is recorded in "My Schools and
Schoolmasters."
The present manse of Poolewe was built in 1828.
The old Free church at Gairloch, and the Free manse there, were erected
shortly after the Disruption in 1843. The church having become unsafe
was pulled down in 1880, and the present handsome building erected on
the same site.
The Free church and manse at Aultbea were also erected soon after the
Disruption. The Free Church has also mission churches or meeting-houses
at Poolewe, Opinan, and Kenlochewe in Gairloch parish. The first
minister of the Gairloch Free church was the Rev. Duncan Matheson, who
was succeeded by the Rev. John Baillie, the present minister. The first
minister of the Aultbea Free church was the Rev. James Noble; to him
succeeded the Rev. William Rose; after whose death the Rev. Ronald
Dingwall, the present minister, was appointed.
Chapter XVII.
ANCIENT GAIRLOCH IRONWORKS.
Many visitors to Gairloch, and not a few of the inhabitants, will learn
with astonishment that the manufacture of iron was carried on in the
parish from remote times, and that there are still abundant remains to
testify to the magnitude and importance of the industry. There are many
places in this wild and picturesque Highland district where are to be
seen to this day large heaps of slag and dross, and remains of
blast-furnaces or bloomeries; whilst many acres of arable ground, as
well as of uncultivated moorland, are still thickly strewn with
fragments of charcoal and of several kinds of iron ore.
The remains of ironworks examined in Gairloch may be roughly divided
into two classes, viz:--(1) The ancient ironworks, of which there are no
historical records extant; and (2) The historic ironworks of Loch Maree.
The ancient ironworks or bloomeries are the subject of our present
chapter. Some of them appear, as we should expect, to belong to a later
period than others, but nothing can be said with precision about the
date of any of them. They will be described in Part I., chap. xx.
There are some interesting notes on the subject of ancient Highland
ironworks in the curious book entitled "Remarks on Dr Samuel Johnson's
Journey to the Hebrides, by the Rev. Donald M'Nicol, A.M.," published in
1779, and extracted in Appendix G. Mr M'Nicol does not give his
authorities, but there is ample ocular demonstration of the truth of his
statement, that "the smelting and working of iron was well understood
and constantly practised over all the Highlands and Islands for time
immemorial." Other writers have expressed the opinion, that iron was
made throughout Great Britain long before the Roman invasion.
Perhaps a coin now in my possession, which was found some years ago in a
field on the bank of the river Went in Yorkshire, near large quantities
of ancient heavy iron slag, may be taken as giving some clue to the date
of the older ironworks. It is an ancient British coin of the type of the
quarter stater of Philip II. of Macedon. The British coinage is supposed
to have been in existence at least as far back as 150 B.C., and this is
one of the early types.
The querns frequently found in all parts of the Highlands shew that the
ancient inhabitants grew some corn,--that they had some acquaintance
with "the staff of life." It seems a reasonable inference, that they
used iron implements for tilling their lands and securing their crops.
It is certain that some iron weapons, tools, and implements, besides
those employed in agriculture, were in use in the Highlands in those old
days. An iron axe-head, of the shape of the bronze celt figured among
our illustrations, and with the aperture for the handle similarly in a
line with its axis instead of at right angles to it, was found in 1885
in the garden at Inveran; its remains are much eaten by rust, but there
is enough to shew that this iron axe is of an old type. It may be
objected, that if iron implements for peace or war were extensively used
in ancient days there would be more relics of them. The obvious reply to
such an objection is, that iron is so liable to oxidation that most of
the smaller iron articles of ancient times must have perished from that
cause. Many of the small masses of rust-cemented gravel and earth, found
everywhere, may have originally had for their nucleus an ancient iron
implement, or a fragment of one. If it be allowed that the Picts or
other early inhabitants of the north used iron tools and weapons, the
question at once arises,--Where and how did they procure them? The
remains of the ancient class of ironworks supply the answer. Those
so-called savages well knew where to procure iron, and how to fabricate
from it the articles they required,--another proof that the Picts were
by no means the uncivilised barbarians that some people suppose.
The ancient ironworks of Gairloch were probably not more numerous than
those of some other parts of the Highlands and Islands. There is little
doubt but that many of the remains, both in Gairloch and elsewhere, have
been obliterated by the husbandman, or concealed by overgrowth of
heather and other plants. In many places throughout Sutherlandshire,
Ross-shire, and Inverness-shire, as well as in other Scottish counties,
there are large quantities of iron slag. The Inverness Scientific
Society have examined remains of ancient iron-smelting near Alness in
Easter Ross. The Rev. Dr Joass, of Golspie, and Mr D. William Kemp, of
Trinity, have to a certain extent investigated some Sutherlandshire
remains. There are also quantities of slag on the Braemore estate, on
the shores of Loch Rosque between Achnasheen and the eastern boundary of
Gairloch parish (Part IV., chap, iii.), and in many other parts of
Wester Ross, as well as in the island of Soa off the west coast of Skye,
and many other places.
At the iron-smelting works near Alness a native hematite iron ore was
used, as well as what is termed bog iron. Bog iron is also believed to
have been used at a bloomery near Golspie, Sutherlandshire. This bog
iron appears to have been commonly employed by the ancient ironworkers;
it was extracted by the action of water from ferruginous rocks and
strata, and was accumulated at the bases of peat bogs. In process of
time granular masses of oxides of iron were thus formed, sometimes
covering a considerable area. Within the parish of Gairloch there are
still quantities of bog iron to be seen, apparently formed exactly in
the manner described. The localities will be stated in Part I., chap.
xix. No bog iron has been found in proximity to any of the remains of
ironworks; probably the iron-smelters consumed all that was conveniently
near the scenes of their operations. In the neighbourhood of all the
remains of ironworks in Gairloch are found ferruginous rocks and shales,
or rust-coloured earths. The best samples of these rocks have on
analysis yielded but eight per cent. of metallic iron, and the
rust-coloured earths are by no means rich in the metal. But there can be
no doubt that bog iron was formerly present in the vicinity of these
rocks, shales, and earths; and the analyses of the ancient iron slags
prove to demonstration that such bog iron was the ore used at the
ancient bloomeries.
Mr W. Ivison Macadam, analytical chemist of Edinburgh, is hopeful that
the analyses he has undertaken may in course of time throw more light on
the methods and productions of the ancient ironworkers. It is not
probable that we shall ever know much of their history. According to the
Rev. Donald M'Nicol they made iron "in the blomary way, that is by
laying it under the hammers in order to make it malleable, with the same
heat that melted it in the furnace." In the present day the processes of
smelting iron and of producing malleable iron are separate and distinct;
these ancient artisans probably combined the two. The slags produced at
their furnaces contained a large proportion of metallic iron. Mr Macadam
has found fully fifty per cent. of iron in most of the samples of
ancient Gairloch slags he has analysed, and at some modern ironworks
quantities of ancient slag have actually been found worth resmelting.
The wasteful richness of the old slags can be easily accounted for; the
ancient methods of smelting were comparatively imperfect, labour was
cheap, the iron used cost nothing, and the forests whence was derived
the charcoal for smelting it were apparently inexhaustible, whilst the
business was no doubt carried on more for the supply of local and
immediate wants than as a branch of commerce. If the ironworkers could
obtain by their primitive processes enough iron to supply their own
requirements, they would naturally be careless of the amount of metal
wasted.
The fuel universally used for iron-smelting, until far into the
eighteenth century, was wood-charcoal, and even to the middle of the
nineteenth century it was still employed at two blast-furnaces in
Scotland. Every part of the Highlands, not excepting the parish of
Gairloch, was clothed with dense forests of fine timber. Far up the
mountain slopes, and down to the rocky shores of the sea, the fir, oak,
and birch flourished in wonderful and beautiful profusion. There is no
poetic license, no picturesque exaggeration in this statement.
Everywhere the relics of trees are to be seen to this day, and much of
the timber used by Gairloch crofters in roofing their dwellings and for
other purposes consists of branches found underground. The disappearance
of the great Caledonian forest has been accounted for in several ways;
some have conjectured that a vast conflagration or series of
conflagrations destroyed it; others think that its destruction was more
gradual, and resulted from the labours of the charcoal burners and
similar doings. In Gairloch there are charred stumps still to be seen
preserved in peat bogs, that support the conflagration theory; but there
is also widespread evidence of extensive charcoal burnings, so that
there must be some truth in both these modes of accounting for the
destruction of the woods. Some localities of charcoal burnings will be
mentioned in Part I., chap. xx.
[Illustration: McLAGAN & CUMMING, LITH, EDINR
SIR GEORGE HAY OF MEGGINISH, KNIGHT,
THE IRONFOUNDER OF LOCH MAREE,
FROM A PORTRAIT BY FERDINAND, IN DUPPLIN CASTLE.]
All the ancient Gairloch ironworks are in the vicinity of burns. This
fact raises a strong inference that the older ironworkers, like their
historic successors, utilised the water-power afforded by adjoining
streams for the purpose of working machinery. The Rev. D. M'Nicol's
statement, already quoted, that hammers were used to produce malleable
iron confirms the inference; and the remains of dams or weirs, and other
expedients for augmenting the water-power, convert the conjecture into
an established fact. It appears certain, then, that heavy hammers worked
by machinery, with water for the motive power, were used in remote
times,--another testimony to the ingenuity and mechanical skill of the
ancient inhabitants of the Highlands. The tuyere for a furnace-blast
found at Fasagh (_see illustration_) is another evidence of that skill.
The reader must please remember that the ancient ironworks referred to
in this chapter are quite distinct from the historic series to which our
next is devoted.
Chapter XVIII.
THE HISTORIC IRONWORKS OF LOCH MAREE.
To the lonely and romantic shores of the queen of Highland lochs belongs
the curiously incongruous distinction of having been the scene where the
new departure in iron-smelting processes, which commenced the present
series of Scottish ironworks, was inaugurated. How wonderful it seems,
that the great iron industry of Scotland, which to this day enriches so
many families and employs so many thousands of workmen, should have
sprung from this sequestered region! The claim to the distinction is
based on the facts, that up to the present time no records of any
earlier manufacture of iron have been discovered, and that the iron
industry established here early in the seventeenth century became, as we
shall shew, of such national importance as to call for special
legislation. It appears to have been in 1607 that Sir George Hay
commenced ironworks at Letterewe, on Loch Maree, which were continued
for at least sixty years. It is true that in 1612 a license previously
granted by the king to "Archibald Prymroise, clerk of his maiesties
mynis, his airis and assignais quhatsomeuir ffor making of yrne within
the boundis of the schirefdome of perth," was ratified by Parliament,
but the date of the license is not given, and we hear no more of these
Perthshire ironworks.
It was not until the eighteenth century that the seed sown by Sir George
germinated, and the iron industry began to spread in Scotland.
The iron furnaces in Glengarry, referred to by Captain Burt, are said to
have been established by a Liverpool company, who bought the Glengarry
woods about 1730.
The iron-smelting works at Abernethy, Strathspey, were commenced in 1732
by the York Buildings Company. This company was formed in 1675 to erect
waterworks on the grounds of York House in the Strand, London, and was
incorporated in 1691 as "The Governor and Company of Undertakers for
raising the Thames water in York Buildings." The operations of the
company have been described by Mr David Murray, M.A., F.S.A. Scot., in
an able pamphlet entitled "The York Buildings Company: A Chapter in
Scotch History." The company raised at the time of its incorporation the
then immense capital of £1,259,575, and conducted not only the original
waterworks, but also enormous speculations in forfeited estates in
Scotland; the company also carried on coal, lead, and iron mines, the
manufacture of iron and glass, and extensive dealings in timber from the
Strathspey forests. Their agents and workmen in Strathspey are described
in the Old Statistical Account as "the most profuse and profligate set
that were ever heard of in this country. Their extravagances of every
kind ruined themselves and corrupted others." Their ironworks were
abandoned at the end of two years, _i.e._ in 1734, or, according to the
Old Statistical Account, in 1737. They made "Glengarry" and "Strathdoun"
pigs, and had four furnaces for making bar iron. The corporation of the
York Buildings Company was dissolved in 1829.
The Loch Etive side, or Bonawe, ironworks, were commenced by an Irish
company about 1730. They rented the woods of Glenkinglass, and made
charcoal, with which they smelted imported iron ore. That company
existed till about 1750. In 1753 an English company, consisting of three
Lancashire men and one Westmoreland man, took leases, which ran for one
hundred and ten years, and these were renewed in 1863 to the then
manager of the company for twenty-one years, expiring as lately as 1884.
By the courtesy of Mr Hosack, of Oban, I have seen duplicates of the
leases under which the undertaking was carried on. The works comprised
extensive charcoal burnings and the blast-furnace at Bonawe; they were
discontinued before 1884.
Other important works of a similar character were afterwards established
by the Argyle Furnace Company, and by the Lorn Company, at Inverary.
In a work on "The Manufacture of Iron in Great Britain," by Mr George
Wilkie, Assoc. Inst. C.E., published in 1857, it is stated that the
Carron works were established in 1760 by Dr Roebuck of Sheffield and
other gentlemen; that in 1779 two brothers of the name of Wilson,
merchants in London, established the Wilsonton ironworks in Lanarkshire;
that in 1788 the Clyde ironworks were established in the neighbourhood
of Glasgow, and that in that year there were only eight pig-iron
furnaces in Scotland, of which four were at Carron, two at Wilsonton,
one at "Bunawe in Lorn," and one at "Goatfield in Arran," the two latter
being worked with wood charcoal for fuel. The furnace at Bunawe is that
already noticed as on Loch Etive side. Of the alleged furnace at
"Goatfield in Arran" there are no records or remains to be found in
Arran to-day. Probably Goatfield was in Argyleshire.
But we need not here further trace the wonderful growth of the still
existing series of Scottish ironworks. To establish our claim to
precedence, it will suffice to shew that the furnaces on Loch Maree were
commenced by Sir George Hay more than a century earlier than any of
those just named.
Pennant, in his tour of 1772 (Appendix B), mentions the time of the
Queen Regent as the period when Sir George Hay was head of a company who
carried on an iron furnace near Poolewe; this statement is given on the
authority of the Rev. John Dounie, minister of Gairloch. The regency of
Mary of Guise extended from 1542 to 1560; so that the historical
commencement of the ironworks on Loch Maree might date as far back as
the middle of the sixteenth century. But Sir George Hay lived at a later
date, and Mr Dounie must have been inaccurate in this respect.
From Donald Gregory's history of the Western Highlands, Alexander
Mackenzie's history of the Mackenzies, and several old MSS., including
the genealogy of the MacRaes (Appendix A), we glean the following
facts:--
In 1598 a party of gentlemen, known as the "Fife Adventurers," obtained
a grant from the crown of the island of the Lews, and took steps to
plant a colony there. Mackenzie of Kintail and the M'Leods of the Lews,
ceasing for the time their own feuds, combined to oust the Fife
Adventurers. In 1607 the king granted the Lews to Lord Balmerino
(Secretary of Scotland and Lord-President of the Session), Sir George
Hay, and Sir James Spens of Wormistoun (one of the original "Fife
Adventurers"), who in 1608 renewed the attempt to colonize the Lews, but
without success. In 1609 Lord Balmerino was convicted of high treason
and executed, thus forfeiting his share. Sir George Hay and Sir James
Spens about that time sent an expedition to the Lews, but Neil M'Leod,
secretly backed by Mackenzie of Kintail, opposed the intending
colonists, who were driven from the island. Mackenzie was raised to the
peerage in the same year with the title of Lord Mackenzie of Kintail,
after he had induced Sir George Hay and Sir James Spens to give up their
scheme and transfer their rights in the Lews to himself. Lord Mackenzie,
in part payment, gave them the woods of Letterewe for iron-smelting; the
arrangement was concluded in 1610, and Lord Mackenzie then obtained a
fresh grant to himself from the crown.
But we can carry back the history of the Letterewe ironworks to a
slightly earlier date still.
The Rev. Farquhar MacRae was appointed vicar or minister of Gairloch by
Bishop Leslie of Ross in 1608, in order that he might "serve the colony
of English which Sir George Hay kept at Letterewe." Mr MacRae continued
his work in Gairloch parish till 1618, and his son informs us, in the
"Genealogical Account" (Appendix A), that on his death in 1662 Mr MacRae
"had lived fifty-four years in the ministry, ten of which at Gairloch."
Thus it is evident that he was ordained vicar of Gairloch in 1608. This
was two years before Sir George Hay acquired the woods of Letterewe from
Lord Mackenzie, but the later date of his acquisition of those woods
does not preclude the possibility of Sir George having already commenced
the manufacture of iron there, perhaps in a tentative manner. It will be
noticed that the Genealogical Account of the MacRaes speaks of Sir
George Hay's undertaking at Letterewe as a going concern when Mr MacRae
was sent in 1608 to minister to the ironworkers. It seems almost
certain, therefore, that it had begun in 1607, for we cannot but assume
that the appointment of Mr MacRae to Gairloch was made to supply a want
that must have taken at least a year to develop. The conclusion that Sir
George Hay began the Letterewe ironworks in 1607, receives some
confirmation from the fact that the grant of the Lews to him and his
colleagues took place in the same year. The two matters were very
probably connected. Either Sir George was led to enter into the Lews
adventure from his being located at Letterewe, so near to Poolewe, the
port for the Lews, or--which is more probable--the advantages of
Letterewe attracted his attention when at Poolewe planning the
subjugation of the Lews. The date (27th January 1609) of the act
forbidding the making of iron with wood (Appendix G) is not inconsistent
with the commencement of the ironworks in 1607. Assuming that the
prohibition was (as seems likely) aimed at the Letterewe ironworks, it
is reasonable enough to suppose that they must have been begun in 1607,
so as to have attained sufficient importance to excite the alarm of the
legislature in January 1609. News from the Highlands took a long time to
travel so far as Edinburgh in those days.
We hear nothing more of Sir James Spens in connection with the
ironworks.
Sir George Hay's history is remarkable. He was the second son of Peter
Hay of Melginche, and was born in 1572. He completed his education at
the Scots College at Douay in France. He was introduced at court about
1596, and seems at once to have attracted the attention of James VI.,
who appointed him one of the gentlemen of the bedchamber, and in 1598
gave him the Carthusian priory or charter-house at Perth and the
ecclesiastical lands of Errol, with a seat in Parliament as a peer. But
he declined the peerage, was knighted instead, and subsequently adopted
the profession of the law, in which he attained to great distinction. He
seems to have been a favourite with the king, whom he defended when in
1600 the Earl of Gowrie was killed in his treasonable attempt on his
majesty's life. Assisted by the favour of the crown, Sir George acquired
large territories both in the Highlands and Lowlands. (See extract from
"Douglas's Peerage," Appendix G.) But some think that at the time he
settled at Letterewe he was under a cloud. Political troubles had
arisen; one of his partners, Lord Balmerino, had been convicted of high
treason and executed; so that the statement that Sir George had chosen
the remote Letterewe "for the sake of quiet in those turbulent times"
appears reasonable enough. The fact that he occupied the leisure of his
enforced retirement in establishing and improving iron-smelting, is a
standing testimony to the energy of this remarkable man. He is said to
have resided some years at Letterewe, or at least to have made his
headquarters there. No doubt Lord Mackenzie would provide the best
habitation he could for the learned and enterprising lessee of his
woods. Probably Sir George lived in an old house on the site of the
present Letterewe House.
The only Gairloch iron-furnaces which we can be sure were carried on by
Sir George Hay were those at Letterewe, Talladale, and the Red Smiddy
near Poolewe. (They will be described in Part I., chap. xx.). The vast
woods of Letterewe were undoubtedly the prime motive that led Sir George
to start the ironworks there. They must have been very extensive, for it
is the opinion of those who should know, that each furnace would
annually use as carbonised fuel the product of one hundred and twenty
acres of wood. The works Sir George conducted seem to have combined two
classes of industry,--(1) The manufacture of wrought-iron, the ore being
smelted with charcoal into a mass of metal called a bloom, which was
hammered whilst yet hot into bars of wrought iron, or into various
articles used in the arts of peace or war; (2) The manufacture of
pig-iron and articles of cast-iron, the metal being poured into moulds.
The Letterfearn MS. says, that at Letterewe "Sir George Hay kept a
colony and manufactory of Englishmen making iron and casting great guns,
untill the wood of it was spent and the lease of it expired."
The Genealogical Account of the MacRaes tells of "the colony of English
which Sir George Hay of Airdry kept at Letterewe, making iron and
casting cannon."
The Bennetsfield MS. mentions the grant of the "lease of the woods of
Letterewe, where there was an iron mine, which they wrought by English
miners, casting guns and other implements, till the fuel was exhausted
and their lease expired."
Pennant notes in his Tour (Appendix B), that the Rev. John Dounie had
seen the back of a grate marked "S. G. Hay," or Sir George Hay. Those
acquainted with old inscriptions tell us that the initial S was a usual
abbreviation for the title "Sir."
It appears, then, that Sir George not only produced articles used in
warfare, but also such goods as we are accustomed to procure at the
ironmonger's.
It is certain that improved processes of iron-smelting were introduced
at Furnace, Letterewe, and perfected at the Red Smiddy, Poolewe, so that
the results obtained at the latter place were almost on a par with those
of the newest methods of the present day. The credit of these
improvements must be given to Sir George Hay. In resuscitating the
ancient manufacture of iron, he brought the intelligence of his
cultivated mind to bear on the subject in a practical and successful
way.
The "new industry" thus commenced on the shores of Loch Maree soon
attracted the attention of the government. Reference has already been
made to the act of 27th January 1609, prohibiting the making of iron
with the natural woods of the Highlands. The act is printed verbatim in
Appendix G. There seems little doubt, as previously remarked, that it
was intended to injure Sir George Hay. It was probably passed on the
instigation of a political foe.
But Sir George must have still possessed considerable influence at
court, and the importance of his new industry must have produced a
strong impression, for on the 24th of December 1610, at Whitehall, the
king gave him what appears to have been a monopoly of the manufacture of
iron and glass throughout the whole of Scotland, for thirty-one years
from that date, and this gift was ratified by Act of Parliament, dated
23d October 1612. The delay of two years in its ratification seems a
little strange, and perhaps indicates that whilst Sir George continued
such a favourite with his king as to receive from him so valuable a
"Christmas box," he still had enemies in the Privy Council or the
Parliament of Scotland. The ratification will be found in Appendix G; it
recites the license. It would appear from a Scots Act passed 16th
November 1641, that several noblemen and gentlemen had obtained
monopolies of other manufactures,--probably about the same time. That
act brought these monopolies to an end in the same year (1641) that Sir
George Hay's monopoly of the manufacture of iron expired. Whether Sir
George carried on ironworks elsewhere than on Loch Maree we know not,
but it is most likely that they were his principal, if not his only,
undertakings of the kind.
In 1613 a proclamation was made by the Privy Council restraining the
export of iron ore out of the country, so that the enterprise of the new
industry should not be hindered or disappointed (Appendix G). If the act
of 1609 prohibiting the making of iron with wood had been obtained by an
enemy of Sir George Hay's, the adverse influence of the foe was now at
an end. Possibly Sir George had by this time returned from the
Highlands, for we find that in 1616 he was appointed Clerk-Register. If
so, his personal influence may have over-ridden that of his former
political enemies. Under this proclamation Sir George became able to
procure the clayband ironstone almost at his own price. He used it
extensively both at Furnace (Letterewe) and at the Red Smiddy, as well
as at Talladale.
There is another record relating to Sir George Hay's iron manufacture;
it is the curious license anent selling of his iron, granted to him by a
Scots Act, dated 4th August 1621, and printed in Appendix G. It purports
to be a license to Sir George to carry his iron to any port or harbour
of the free burghs royal, and to dispose of the same to any person
notwithstanding the privileges and liberties of the burghs. This
license, granted fourteen years after the commencement of the Letterewe
ironworks, testifies to the vigour with which the enterprise had been
pushed. It would seem that the quantity of iron produced now only
required a free market. The monopoly granted to Sir George, the
proclamation restraining the export of iron ore, and the special license
he now obtained for selling his iron in royal burghs, were exceptional
provisions, which would now-a-days be considered antagonistic to
cherished political principles. To what extent Sir George profited from
the advantages granted to him we cannot tell. That he became a rich man
there seems no doubt, and the ironworks on Loch Maree may have added to
his wealth.
[Illustration: THE MINISTER'S STONE, ARDLAIR.]
John Roy Mackenzie was the prudent, business-like, and hospitable laird
of Gairloch during the residence at Letterewe of Sir George Hay, who
appears to have had a furnace at Talladale on John Roy's Gairloch
estate. Doubtless some intercourse took place between them, but as John
Roy had been previously engaged in warfare, and could not, so far as we
can judge from the story of his youth, have been a man of much culture,
it is unlikely that he and Sir George became very intimate. But Sir
George, the learned lawyer and man of science, had a thoroughly
congenial friend in the great Latin scholar the Rev. Farquhar MacRae,
vicar of Gairloch, whose house at Ardlair was but a three miles' walk or
row from Letterewe House. The account given in Appendix A proves that
the friendship of this accomplished and genial clergyman was much
appreciated by Sir George, who endeavoured to induce Mr MacRae to
accompany him when he himself returned to the south. A remarkable rock
or stone at Ardlair, called "The minister's stone" (_see illustration_),
is still pointed out as the place where Mr MacRae used to preach in
English and Gaelic. No doubt he also preached at Letterewe; and we are
told that he "did not only please the country people, but also the
strangers, especially George Hay." The interesting memoir of Mr MacRae,
in Appendix A, is well worth perusal; he married in 1611, and brought
his bride to the parsonage at Ardlair, where several of his children
were born. Unquestionably the refined life of the vicar and his family
at their beautiful and retired home, would be more enjoyable to Sir
George than the rougher habits of the natives of the country, nay, even
than the society of the fighting laird of Gairloch himself.
The date when Sir George left Letterewe is not certain; the reason of
his departure is plain,--he had superior calls on his presence in the
south. After he left his Highland retreat his career was one of unbroken
success and distinction. In 1616 he was appointed Clerk-Register, and on
16th July 1622 he was constituted High Chancellor of Scotland. He was
raised to the Peerage by the title of Viscount Duplin and Lord Hay of
Kinfauns in 1627, and was created Earl of Kinnoull by patent dated at
York 25th May 1633. As chancellor he won "the approbation of the whole
kingdom, and the applause of all good men, for his justice, integrity,
sound judgment, and eminent sufficiency." He died in London in 1634,
aged sixty-two. Some account of the statue of his lordship, of the
epitaph on his monument, and of the portraits of him still extant (_see
illustrations_), will be found in Appendix G. If we may trust the
expressions contained in the epitaph, it would almost appear that the
iron-founder of Loch Maree became, under his king, the ruler of fair
Scotland, for he is termed "the great and grave dictator of our clime."
But the departure of Sir George from Letterewe did not stop the progress
of his ironworks on Loch Maree. The concession or monopoly granted by
the crown had still many years to run, and the works were unquestionably
continued for a long further period under a manager or factor. The last
manager is said to have been called John Hay, a name which obviously
suggests that he was a relative of Sir George.
In the Gairloch churchyard is a picturesque tombstone, evidently of
considerable age. It has a well carved skull and cross bones, and
underneath them a shield (originally faced with a brass), with a design
below it resembling an inverted fleur-de-lis. At either side of the
shield are the letters I and H, of large size. The inscription round the
border of the stone is only partly legible. It runs as follows:--
* * R ‧ LYIS ‧ IOHNE ‧ HAY ‧ SON * * HAY ‧ OF ‧ KIRKLAND ‧ WHO ‧
DIED ‧ AT ‧ LOCH * * * * * *
It is said that this stone was sent to the port or wharf at Port na
Heile, in Gairloch (the present Gairloch pier), some years after the
death of John Hay, to be placed over his grave; that he was the last
manager of the Letterewe ironworks; that he died, and was probably
buried, at or near Letterewe; that the stone lay at the port for many
years; and that, ultimately, when the situation of John Hay's grave had
been forgotten, Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the second baronet and ninth
laird of Gairloch (who succeeded 1703, came of age 1721, and died 1766),
authorised one William Fraser to place the stone in the burial-place of
his (Fraser's) family, where it now lies. It is added that "Sir
Alexander received a stone from William Fraser for it."
[Illustration:
McLAGAN & CUMMING, LITH, EDINR
SIR GEORGE HAY, 1ST EARL OF KINNOULL, HIGH CHANCELLOR OF SCOTLAND,
THE IRONFOUNDER OF LOCH MAREE,
FROM A PORTRAIT IN DUPPLIN CASTLE,
ATTRIBUTED TO GEORGE JAMESONE, THE SCOTTISH VANDYCK.]
These statements about the Hay tombstone are from the mouth of James
Mackenzie, who says that William Fraser and his own grandfather were
first cousins, and that the facts about the gravestone were told him on
their authority when he was young. He is corroborated by other old
Gairloch men.
Although this John Hay, whose father appears from the tombstone to have
been Mr Hay of Kirkland, was probably a relation of Sir George Hay, it
is impossible to fix the degree of relationship. Sir George Hay's father
had three sons, Patrick, George, and Peter. This Peter was designated as
of Kirkland of Megginch. He had a son called Francis, whose
great-grandson Thomas succeeded to the earldom of Kinnoull, on the
direct line of Sir George Hay, the first earl, becoming extinct in the
person of William, the fifth earl, in 1709. Possibly Peter Hay had a son
known as James Hay of Kirkland, or else some collateral relation of the
family bore that designation, for we gather from a short account of the
parish of St Martins, Perthshire, contained in a footnote to the account
of that parish in the Old Statistical Account, that a James Hay acquired
Kirkland by an exchange with Mr John Strachan, minister of St Martins.
The son, Thomas, of this minister, "after his return from his travels,
when he had waited on the earl of Kinnowel his son as his governour for
the space of three years, became conjunct with his father, and died
minister there in the year 1671." Kirkland was a "good manor house;" it
was built of old by the abbot of Halyrood-house, and was afterwards the
minister's manse. It is possible that this Kirkland may not have been
the same as Kirkland of Megginch. In all probability, however, John Hay,
the last manager of the Loch Maree ironworks, was a son of James Hay,
and the latter was a relative of the great Sir George. It was indeed
natural that Sir George should prefer to entrust his ironworks to a
relative rather than to a stranger.
After the death of the Earl of Kinnoull, his ironworks appear to have
fallen into a languishing condition, possibly from the timber being
exhausted. In Knox's Tour it is stated that Mr Alexander Mackenzie of
Lochend, in 1786, told the author (Mr Knox) that cannon were still made
at Poolewe in 1668. Mr Mackenzie said his grandfather had "lent ten
thousand marks to the person or persons who carried on the works, for
which he got in return the back of an old grate and some hammers." It is
curious that these relics are the only remains known to have existed
(except the breech of a cannon and some small pigs of iron) of the
productions of the Loch Maree ironworks. The "back of an old grate" was
no doubt the same as that which Mr Dounie told Pennant of, and the
hammers, or at least one of them, must have been the same as existed in
living memory. (See Part I., chap. xx.)
So far as we can judge, the ironworks were discontinued soon after the
date of the loan mentioned by Mr Mackenzie of Lochend. Thus the
undertaking was carried on for a period of at least sixty years. Local
tradition affirms that the industry was prolonged into the eighteenth
century, but there is nothing to confirm the tradition except the story
of the Gille Buidhe (Part I., chap. xiv.); it speaks of men living in
1746 as being sons of one of the last of the Letterewe ironworkers.
The artisans employed by Sir George Hay are said by some to have been
from Fife, by others to have been Welsh, and by all to have been
"English." But this last term only means that the ironworkers spoke
English, for as truly remarked by the Rev. Donald MacRae, minister of
Poolewe (Appendix E), "Highlanders look upon all who do not speak the
Gaelic language as Sasganaich [_Sasunnach_] or Englishmen."
The names Cross, Bethune or Beaton, and Kemp, are still known in
Gairloch parish as belonging to descendants of the ironworkers. Cross is
a common Lancashire name. Mr D. William Kemp, of Trinity, who has read a
valuable paper on old ironworks in Sutherlandshire to the Scottish
Society of Arts, says that the name Kemp is very uncommon in Wales, but
is a north of England name, and was common in Cumberland after the
fourteenth century, artisans of that surname having settled in that
county in the reign of Edward III.
It is probable that Sir George Hay's artisans were mostly from Fife;
they were very likely some of the men who had been taken by the "Fife
Adventurers" to the Lews, with the object (frustrated as we have seen)
of establishing a colony there. To these Fifeshire men were no doubt
added a few (including a Cross and a Kemp) who had come with iron ore
from Lancashire or Cumberland. Of course all of them were ignorant of
Gaelic.
These ironworkers remained in Gairloch for several generations; some of
them became permanently settled in the parish. It is said that at one
time an epidemic of smallpox carried off a number of them. Narrators of
Gairloch traditions differ as to where the ironworkers buried their
dead. Some believe it was at the burial-place on flat ground near the
head of Loch Maree, which is accordingly called to this day Cladh nan
Sasunnach, or "the Englishman's churchyard," but others say, with more
probability, that the beautiful burial-ground on Isle Maree was their
place of sepulture. This last view is in accord with the information
obtained by Dr Arthur Mitchell (Part II., chap. xi.), and appears to be
the better opinion.
I do not think the Cladh nan Sasunnach was used for interment so
recently as the time of Sir George Hay's undertaking. I examined this
strange place on 12th May 1884. There are indications of twenty-four
graves, all with the feet pointed towards the east, and all covered more
or less with large unwrought stones. There are head and foot stones more
or less distinct to all the graves, which, from their dimensions, might
well be called the graves of giants. I opened two of the graves in
different parts of the group to the depth of four or five feet, in fact
as far as the ground was workable with ordinary pick and spade. In the
first grave opened, a cavity, filled with water, eighteen inches deep
and much wider than the grave, was reached at a depth of between two and
three feet, and below that the stratum was nearly as hard as concrete.
There were no indications whatever of organic remains. In the case of
the second grave opened, which was the largest and most marked of the
group, no water was reached and no remains were found. To the depth of
about four feet the gravel was comparatively loose, as if it had been
wrought at some time. Below that it was so hard that evidently it had
never been moved by man. Now, had there been interments here in the
seventeenth century, there must surely have been some traces of them. My
own opinion is, that these graves date back some centuries earlier than
the ironworks, in fact to the period when tradition says it was usual to
bury the dead in shallow graves scraped out of hard gravel, and then to
cover the graves with large stones, the hardness of the gravel and the
weight of the superincumbent stones being intended to hinder wolves from
exhuming the bodies.
We should like to know more about the ironworks, and particularly about
the men who were employed at the furnaces, and their families and
circumstances. The struggles that had engaged the MacBeaths, Macdonalds,
M'Leods, and Mackenzies for two centuries, and had rendered Gairloch a
veritable battlefield, were at an end in Sir George Hay's time. With the
exception of occasional raids on Gairloch by Lochaber and other
cattle-lifters, there was now peace throughout the parish. The Scots Act
of 27th January 1609 (Appendix G) speaks of the "present generall
obedience" of the Highlands, as contrasted with the previous "savagness
of the inhabitantis." Letterewe was then, as now, a peculiarly retired
spot; there is still no access to it for wheeled vehicles; Sir George
Hay's choice of it as a retreat from political troubles confirms the
view that it was safe and secluded; the mountains behind Letterewe had
long been a favourite hunting-ground of the lords of Kintail (Part I.,
chap. iv.); and we may well believe that Sir George and his men were
able not only to carry on their business without interruption, but also
to enjoy in peace the sport afforded by the district. At the same time,
it must be remembered that the natives were still in a half savage
condition, miserably fed, clothed, and housed, and entirely destitute of
education. Very loose notions of morality were prevalent; and to a great
extent the old principle that "might is right" still ruled the daily
life of the people. They say that some of the ironworkers, severed from
home ties, and finding themselves far away from the executive of the
law, became reprobates. One of the latest of the ironworkers, or a son
of one of them, was known as the Sasunnach Mor, or "Big Englishman"; he
is said to have been a wild character. A crofter and carter now living
at Londubh is a great-grandson of the Sasunnach Mor; the last Mackenzie
of Kernsary testified, in the presence of persons now living, to the
descent of this Londubh crofter from the Sasunnach Mor. But whatever
were the idiosyncrasies, either of the early or of the latest
ironworkers, there can be no doubt that they all led rough and almost
lawless lives in their wild Highland homes.
Chapter XIX.
THE IRON ORES USED IN GAIRLOCH.
The first question that most people ask, when they hear of the ironworks
in the parish of Gairloch, is,--Where did the iron that was smelted come
from? The answer can only be supplied by an examination of the remains
of the ironworks now to be met with, and of their neighbourhood. Of
records bearing on the subject there are none. There are but two
incidental notices that help to throw light on the question; both are
comparatively modern.
The Bennetsfield MS. speaks of "the woods of Letterewe, where there was
an iron mine which they wrought by English miners."
The New Statistical Account (Appendix E), in the account of Gairloch
written by the Rev. Donald MacRae in 1836, says, "Sir James Kay [Sir
George Hay] sent several people to work at veins of iron ore on the
estate of Letterewe."
Let us discuss the questions of the ores used at the ancient bloomeries
and at the historic ironworks under separate heads.
I.--AT THE ANCIENT BLOOMERIES.
It has been already stated (Part I., chap. xvii.) that bog iron was the
source whence the ancient ironworkers of Gairloch obtained their metal,
so that the terms "iron mine" and "veins of iron ore" quoted above must
be considered as referring--unwittingly perhaps--to it. The ingredients
of ancient Gairloch iron slags, as ascertained by Professor Ivison
Macadam, shew that they have unquestionably resulted from the smelting
of bog iron. His analyses and conclusions will in due time be made
public; they will prove that the iron ore used at the ancient ironworks
in the parish of Gairloch was undoubtedly bog iron.
Mention has been made of ferruginous rocks, shales, and earths existing
in the vicinity of the old ironworks. Local tradition affirms that these
were the sources of the iron used in the old days. It appears certain
that bog iron was found in the vicinity of these ferruginous
strata,--probably derived from them,--but they cannot have been the
subjects of the ancient iron-smelting. Mr Macadam finds that the richest
samples of them do not yield more than 8 per cent. of metallic iron, and
that the sulphur they contain does not occur in the slags produced at
the furnaces, as would have been the case had they been used.
The most abundant and apparent of these rocks is the large band of
ferruginous stone that runs from Letterewe, in a south-easterly
direction, along the shores of Loch Maree to the further end of the base
of Slioch. It is so extensive, and so rusty in colour, that it can be
easily discerned from the county road on the opposite side of the loch.
Similar ferruginous rock appears in several other places, as far at
least as to the head of Glen Dochartie, but not so abundantly, and
therefore not so conspicuously. It also occurs in other parts of
Gairloch parish. Gairloch people point out several places where they say
this ferruginous rock was quarried, viz.: (1) on the south side of the
Furnace burn at Letterewe, nearly a quarter of a mile above the site of
the iron furnace; (2) on the face of the ridge immediately behind and
above the cultivated land at Innis Ghlas; (3) at Coppachy; and (4) in a
gully, called Clais na Leac, at the north-west end of the cultivated
land at Smiorsair. At each of these places there are exposed scaurs or
escarpments of the ferruginous rock, which are said to have been the
results of quarrying, but which are much more like natural fractures. We
may therefore dismiss the tradition that iron ore was obtained directly
from these supposed quarries as not only unreliable but impossible.
The absence of bog iron in the neighbourhoods of the Gairloch iron
furnaces or bloomeries is quite intelligible; it was no doubt all
consumed by the ironworkers. Considerable quantities of bog iron are
still to be seen in other parts of Gairloch, and their frequent
occurrence throughout the parish confirms the contention that this
description of ore formerly existed near the bloomeries, and was used at
them. Most bog iron is rich in the useful metal. Mr Macadam has analysed
a sample from Golspie, submitted by Dr Joass, and has found it to
contain 54½ per cent. of metallic iron. Some Gairloch samples are nearly
as rich, as will be seen from the results of Mr Macadam's analyses
stated below.
The deposits of bog iron are locally called by the descriptive name of
"pans." The following is a list of places where these deposits occur
within the parish of Gairloch, as so far noticed by Mr Macadam and
myself:--
1. In the churchyard at Sand of Udrigil.
2. At the highest point on the road between Aultbea and Laide.
3. In the village of Cove; masses of bog iron are built into fence
walls.
4. Near Meallan na Ghamhna.
5. Near the Inverasdale Board School, where there are three "pans."
6. In the township of Strath of Gairloch; the "pans" have been
broken up; they say there were several of them.
7. At the north-west end of the township of Lonmor; here too the
"pans" have been broken up, and lumps of bog iron are to be seen
in walls or dykes. Mr Macadam has found 51¼ per cent. of metallic
iron in a heavy sample from this place.
8. Among the sand hills at the easternmost corner of the farm of
Little Sand; one "pan" is entire; another is partly broken up. Mr
Macadam's analysis shews 51½ per cent. of metallic iron in a
sample from this place.
9. At North Erradale; "pans" broken up. Mr Macadam states that a
heavy sample of bog iron from this place yields 49 per cent., and
a sandy portion 38¾ per cent. of metallic iron.
10. At South Erradale. There is a fence wall, locally called Garadh
Iaruinn, or the "iron dyke," entirely composed (for fifty yards of
its length) of masses of bog iron, varying from 3 to 13 inches in
thickness, and some of them nearly a yard in length. The dyke was
erected in 1845, when the present system of crofts was being
established in Gairloch. Quantities of bog iron are also to be
seen in other dykes, and the soil of probably about two acres of
the adjacent cultivated land mainly consists of comminuted bog
iron. There must have been large deposits of it at this place;
one or two unbroken masses still remain _in situ_. Mr Macadam
finds that the heavier kind yields, on analysis, 50 per cent. of
metallic iron, whilst a sandy portion contains 46½ per cent.
11. On the farm of Point, Gairloch, near the house of Mr MacClymont,
farmer. The heavy bog iron analysed by Mr Macadam yields 50 per
cent. of metallic iron, and some red sand from the same place
contains 15 per cent.
II.--AT THE HISTORIC IRONWORKS.
Mr Macadam is of opinion that bog iron was not only used at the ancient
bloomeries, but also at some of the historic furnaces in Gairloch
parish, particularly at Letterewe and Talladale. He gathers this from
the general character and composition of some of the slags found at
these places. It was in the early stage of Sir George Hay's career as a
manufacturer of iron that he used the native bog iron ore; later on he
began to import iron ores of a different kind from other parts of the
kingdom,--at first in order to mix them with the local bog iron, and
afterwards, perhaps, for separate use. The introduction of these
imported ores may have been primarily due to the failure of the supply
of the bog iron; it undoubtedly led to a vast improvement in the results
obtained at Sir George Hay's furnaces.
The evidence that Sir George imported what we may term foreign ores is
not far to seek.
At the Letterewe ironworks there are to be seen fragments of two kinds
of imported iron ore, scattered in the soil of the field adjoining the
furnace, or built into fence walls; they are red hematite ore, and
clayband ironstone.
Mr J. E. Marr, F.G.S., has described these foreign ores as
follows:--"Red hematite exactly the same as that in the Furness and
Whitehaven districts in England. Large masses of a brown clay ironstone;
one of these masses being a septarian nodule, with radiating crystals
along the cracks; the other being bedded, and containing numerous plant
and fish remains, but no shells; these fossils shew them to belong to
the carboniferous system."
Some small fragments of similar clay ironstone have been found on the
traditional site of the Talladale iron furnace.
On the bank above the ironworks on the river Ewe, called the Red Smiddy,
are fragments of clayband ironstone, which Mr Marr has described as
follows:--"Clay ironstone nodules, mostly blue inside, and weathering
red and yellow on the outside. Many of these were septarian; and when
fossils occurred they were of shells, and there were no traces of plants
or of fish remains. This ore, in fact, is entirely different from either
of the two kinds found at the Letterewe furnace. At the same time, the
fossils shew that it also belongs to the carboniferous system."
On the west bank of the pool at Poolewe, the landing-place both for
Letterewe and the Red Smiddy, is a considerable heap of red hematite
exactly similar to that found at Furnace, Letterewe. At the same place
are many masses of clay ironstone, which include all the varieties found
at Letterewe and the Red Smiddy. In the soil in the bank below Poolewe
church, where a jetty and storehouse were erected in 1885, there are
also large quantities of clayband ironstone, which were not seen by Mr
Marr.
Mr Macadam has examined and analysed samples of all these foreign ores.
He is unable to draw the same distinction as Mr Marr between the
apparent varieties of clayband ironstone, and thinks that they were in
all probability from the same place, and that most likely the south of
Scotland. He finds that the samples of hematite ore contain metallic
iron varying in quantity from 30 to 60 per cent. The samples of clayband
ironstone he finds to yield from 6 to 38 per cent. of metallic iron;
they also contain a considerable quantity of lime.
Mr Marr thinks that these foreign or imported ores were mixed with local
ore. The lime in the clayband ironstone would render it a useful
ingredient from its quality of acting as a flux. Mr Marr adds, "The
theory of intermixture of local and imported ores receives support from
a similar case in Wales which has come under my observation, where
somewhat impure ore containing quantities of phosphorus, occurring among
the old slaty rocks of North Wales, is carried to South Wales to mix
with the carboniferous ores."
For convenience of reference in our next chapter, the several sources
from whence iron was obtained for the smelting-furnaces on Loch Maree,
and in other parts of Gairloch, may be classed as follows:--
1. Bog iron obtained locally.
2. Red hematite. Same as found in Lancashire and Cumberland, and
unquestionably imported thence.
3. Clayband ironstone, possibly in two varieties. This was also
imported either from the south of Scotland or elsewhere.
Chapter XX.
REMAINS OF IRONWORKS IN THE PARISH OF GAIRLOCH.
The following descriptions will include all the remains of ironworks so
far noticed within the parish of Gairloch, whether belonging to what we
have called the ancient class, or to the more modern historic set.
The slags found in and about the various remains are broadly divided by
Mr Macadam into two classes, which he describes as follows:--
(1.) A dark black slag, compact and heavy, in some cases slightly
porous; the percentage of iron in this slag is high; in many samples
more than half is iron.
(2.) A gray light porous mass, resembling the slags formed in blast
furnaces at the present day; this slag contains a large proportion of
lime, and a comparatively small proportion of iron.
The descriptions of iron ores found at the different places are
indicated by numbers referring to the list of ores at the end of the
last chapter.
It appears certain that there were ironworks in the following different
places in Gairloch parish,--
1. Glen Dochartie; three places.
2. Fasagh.
3. Furnace, Letterewe.
4. Talladale.
5. Garavaig, on Slatadale farm.
6. Red Smiddy, near Poolewe.
1. GLEN DOCHARTIE.
The traveller proceeding from Loch Maree to Achnasheen may notice, to
the right of the road, about four hundred yards before the head of Glen
Dochartie is gained, and on the seven hundred feet contour line of the
ordnance survey, a scattered heap of small pieces of the slag No. 1. The
burn runs past not many yards below. No site of a furnace can be
identified. On the other side of the road, about three hundred yards up
the hill, on the thousand feet contour, are more extensive similar
remains, with the same kind of slag. Mr Macadam finds that this slag
contains 66 per cent. of metallic iron, and no lime as silicate. There
is red earth in the neighbourhood resembling what is found with "pans"
of bog iron. The burn runs past, but is now in a deep gully. At the foot
of the glen, more than a mile nearer Kenlochewe, and a little to the
west of the bridge over the burn, are fragments of similar slag, and
traces of charcoal burnings. The place is on the ancient beach, about
twenty feet above the level of the road. No doubt all these remains are
of considerable antiquity; they may perhaps have been parts of the same
undertaking.
2. FASAGH.
The most extensive remains of ironworks on Loch Maree are on the south
side of the Fasagh burn, close to where it runs into the loch. This burn
comes from Loch Fada, a considerable sheet of water to the north of
Slioch. There are remains of a sluice or dam where the burn leaves Loch
Fada, evidently used long ago to regulate the water supply. The burn
flows into Loch Maree at its south-east corner, close to the head of the
loch. There are indications of a large artificial bank, probably the
remains of a dam, formed at right angles to the burn, near the site of
the ironworks; but the burn has of late years been subject to great
floods, that have to some extent varied its course, and altered the
surrounding features.
There are two places which seem to have been the sites of furnaces or
bloomeries; at each of these spots, which are near each other, and have
a small watercourse (now dry) running alongside, there is a mass of
slaggy material surrounding a root or stump of a tree. In the same part
is a quantity of blackish material, weathering red and splitting on
exposure like quicklime, and on all sides are heaps and scattered masses
of dark heavy slag No. 1. The tuyere (_see illustration_) of a furnace
was in 1882 removed from a cottage close by, where it had been for a
long time; it is now in the possession of Mr Macadam, and is to be
placed in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. I have
obtained from an old man at Kenlochewe, an ancestor of whose brought it
from the Fasagh ironworks, a curious article (_see illustration_); it is
of cast-iron, and seems to have formed part of the apparatus for working
a large forge-hammer. In examining the furnaces with Mr Macadam in April
1886, we found a portion of a thin bar, which appeared to be of iron.
They say that a massive hammer head brought from Fasagh was long at
Culinellan, and that an anvil at the Kenlochewe smithy was formed from
part of it. Not far from the sites of the furnaces is a mound of
rust-coloured earth like that found with bog iron (ore No. 1). There are
evidences of extensive charcoal burnings on the other side of the burn,
to the west of the ironworks.
Mr Macadam has supplied the following results of his analyses of samples
of substances obtained at Fasagh:--The slaggy material from tree roots
contains 66 per cent., the blackish material 73 per cent., and the dark
slag 68 per cent. of metallic iron; the slag also contains 11 per cent.
of silica; the bar of iron contains 63 per cent. of metallic iron, and a
large quantity of carbon.
About half a mile to the east of the Fasagh works, at the foot of the
crag called Bonaid Donn, is a small circular pond, or rather a large
hole in the middle of a circular marsh. It is called Lochan Cul na
Cathrach. There is a perpetual flow of spring water from this hole, and
the surrounding marsh prevents close approach to it. It is the common
tradition, accepted with the fullest credence, that into this hole the
last ironworkers at Fasagh threw all their implements when the furnaces
were discontinued. Possibly a drag might bring something to light, or
the hole might be drained. The tradition is so firmly believed, that it
produces on one's mind a strong impulse to search the hole, and try to
find something bearing on the nature and history of the Fasagh
ironworks.
From the character of the slags, the comparatively complete state of the
remains, and from the tuyere and other things having been discovered, it
seems probable that the Fasagh works, whilst belonging to the ancient
class of ironworks, were amongst the most recent of that class; and Mr
Macadam thinks it possible that Sir George Hay may have commenced his
operations at this place in continuation, no doubt, of older ironworks.
3. FURNACE, LETTEREWE.
The remains of the ironworks at the hamlet of Furnace, a mile south-east
of Letterewe, are perhaps the most generally interesting in Gairloch, as
being especially identified with Sir George Hay. The furnace which gives
its name to the hamlet is on the north-west bank of the "Furnace burn,"
about one hundred yards from its confluence with Loch Maree. The remains
of the furnace are tolerably complete, and a hole in its lower part
looks as if it had been the aperture for the blast. On the banks of the
burn are masses of sandstone, which formed part of the furnace. Some
fragments of vitrified bricks are also to be seen. In the soil of the
adjoining field, and in its fence walls, are quantities of the ores 2
and 3. In places the soil is quite red with fragments of hematite. In
other places it is stained black with charcoal burnings, and many
fragments of charcoal are to be found. No doubt the water-power of the
burn was utilised, and Loch Maree afforded an easy means of transport of
imported ores from Poolewe, where they were landed.
The slags found about this furnace are of both classes. May we not
conclude from this fact, that Sir George Hay commenced the manufacture
of iron on the old methods anciently in vogue, and that it was at
Letterewe that he began the improved processes which were afterwards
carried to still greater perfection at the Red Smiddy? This furnace
belongs of course to the historic class.
4. TALLADALE.
A strong local tradition places the Talladale furnace on the bank of a
small burn about one hundred and fifty yards south-east of the Talladale
river; it stood in the corner of the field nearest to, and to the west
of, the road. They say that when this field was reclaimed and trenched,
large quantities of slag were turned up, and were buried in the land and
in drains. The few specimens of slag found on the surface in 1883 are of
both kinds. Some small fragments of ore discovered are No. 3. It seems
pretty certain, therefore, that the Talladale furnace was carried on by
Sir George Hay, and that it belongs to the historic class of ironworks.
5. GARAVAIG, ON SLATADALE FARM.
The Garavaig furnace stood in a slight hollow in the east corner of what
is now the easternmost field of the Slatadale farm, close to where the
Garavaig burn (on which are the Victoria Falls) runs into Loch Maree.
They say the water-power of the burn was anciently increased by
artificial means. When I first examined the field where the furnace
stood it was newly ploughed, and part of it was stained black with
fragments of charcoal, indicating extensive burnings. The farmer stated
that he had buried immense quantities of slag in the drains and soil of
this recently reclaimed field. There are still numerous fragments of No.
1 slag on the surface, so that the furnace belonged to the ancient
class. The farmer said that he had noticed indications of there having
been a furnace in the slight hollow already mentioned, and the fragments
of slag are thickest there. The agricultural operations have reduced the
place almost to a dead level. No kind of iron ore is found, but the
locality is just the place where one would have expected "pans" of bog
iron might have occurred.
6. RED SMIDDY, NEAR POOLEWE.
The remains of the iron furnace on the river Ewe are still called A
Cheardach Ruadh, or "the Red Smiddy." They are more perfect, and
therefore to some extent more attractive to one studying the subject,
than any of the others. Unquestionably they are also more recent. That
the Red Smiddy was part of Sir George Hay's undertaking appears certain;
but it was very likely under his manager or factor that it was
established, and probably a number of years later than the Letterewe
furnace. The slags are exclusively of class No. 2, and closely resemble
those formed in blast-furnaces at the present day, thus demonstrating
the progress Sir George made in the art of the manufacture of iron after
his commencement at Letterewe. Mr Macadam finds that this light slag is
completely soluble in acids, and that it contains 16 per cent. of oxide
of calcium, and only 23 per cent. of metallic iron. The ore found on the
bank above the Red Smiddy and elsewhere near its remains are of the No.
3 class. Many of the fragments of ore have been roasted. This process
does not seem to have been adopted at any of the other furnaces. It is
another indication of the more recent date of the Red Smiddy, and of the
improvements in the methods pursued there. The Letterewe and Talladale
furnaces appear to have been originally established solely for the
smelting of bog iron (No. 1). Gradually the paucity of that ore, the
advantage of mixing imported ores with it, and their superior quality,
led to the introduction of the latter; and then the convenience of
having a furnace near the place where these imported ores were landed,
led to the establishment of the Red Smiddy. No doubt timber for charcoal
burning was at first obtainable in every direction, and afterwards, if
there were not a sufficient quantity standing near the Red Smiddy, it
could easily be floated down to it from Letterewe or other places on
Loch Maree.
The Red Smiddy is on the north-east bank of the river Ewe, immediately
below the termination of its navigable part, which also bears the name
of the "Narrows of Loch Maree," so that this furnace may properly be
said to stand at the foot, as the Fasagh works stand at the head, of the
loch. The furnace is about half a mile from Poolewe, and is said to have
been approached from the other side of the river by means of a weir or
dam, which was long afterwards converted into a cruive dyke. This weir
served also to maintain the water-power used for working the hammers. It
spanned the river in a transverse direction from east to west, and the
line of the old road is still visible leading down to its west end.
Leaving the navigable part of the Ewe at the east end of the weir was a
race or cut, more or less artificial, the channel of which still runs
past the furnace which it formerly insulated. It was not till some time
prior to 1830 that the old weir was restored, and used for salmon
cruives. They were removed about 1852 in order to lower the level of the
water above, and so drain land at the head of Loch Maree.
The furnace is still tolerably complete. It is about six feet square,
and stands on a mound red with its remains. It is built of sandstone.
The chimney stalk was standing to the height of eight or ten feet at the
time the cruives were removed. Several men in the neighbourhood speak to
this fact, and identify numerous pieces of sandstone lying about as
having formed portions of it. They are all vitrified along the cracks.
Some bricks or pieces of brick are also found; they are formed of rough
clay. Mr Marr thought they contained rushes, that had been mixed with
the clay to bind it. There is a large heap of the slag No. 2 near the
furnace. A flat space to the north of the furnace appears to have been
artificially formed for the purpose of moulding the iron; here I have
found two small masses or pigs of cast iron. Mr Macadam has found that
one of these masses contains 98‧8 per cent. of metallic iron, very
little carbon, and only ‧8 per cent. of silicon. A pig of iron which Dr
Arthur Mitchell found here in 1859, and deposited in the museum of
Scottish Antiquities at Edinburgh, is of cast iron. Besides these pigs
of iron several other iron articles have at different times been taken
from the Red Smiddy. Pennant was told by the Rev. Mr Dounie in 1772,
that he (Mr Dounie) had seen the back of a grate marked S. G. Hay. Mr
Alexander Mackenzie of Lochend informed Mr Knox in 1786, that his
grandfather had got from these works "an old grate and some hammers."
Sir G. S. Mackenzie of Coul mentions in his "General Survey," in 1810,
"the breech of a cannon he had found among the rubbish, which appeared
to have been spoiled in casting." Old men state that they remember to
have seen, about 1840, in front of the inn at Aultbea, a large iron
hammer head which had been brought from the Red Smiddy; it required two
men to lift it, and to raise it from the ground was a common test of
strength; it was removed from Aultbea by Donald Macdonald, fishcurer at
Lochinver. It may have been one of the hammers mentioned by Mackenzie of
Lochend.
There are evidences of extensive charcoal burnings on several flat
places along the east bank of the Narrows of Loch Maree for a space of
nearly half a mile above the Red Smiddy, and much of the bank
immediately above it is black with charcoal and the remains of fires
where ore was roasted.
There is a tradition that Sir George Hay or his manager projected a
canal, to connect the navigable part of the Ewe with the sea at a place
called Cuil an Scardain, at the south-west corner of Loch Ewe. Two large
circular holes at this place, now nearly filled up with stones cleared
from the adjoining arable land, are said to have been borings made to
test the feasibility of the project. They give some probability to the
tradition.
* * * * *
In chronological order the Glen Dochartie and Garavaig bloomeries were
probably the earliest of the Gairloch ironworks. The Fasagh works seem
to have been intermediate between those and the historic series, which
includes Furnace (Letterewe), Talladale, and the Red Smiddy. These last
belong, as we have seen, to the seventeenth century.
Old inhabitants have a tradition that there was a bloomery in Tollie bay
on Loch Maree. They say that after it was discontinued the business of
tar boiling was carried on at the same place. If this were so, it must
have been long ago, for no vestiges of old fir trees are now to be seen
in the neighbourhood. Some small fragments of slag are found among the
shingle in Tollie bay. Mr Macadam has analysed a sample of this slag,
and is of opinion that it is lime-kiln slag; it contains 33 per cent. of
carbonate of lime, and 64 per cent. of insoluble silicates, which
include only 13 per cent. of metallic iron.
There are a few masses of slag near the entrance to the Gairloch
churchyard. Owing to the crowded state of the graves within, some
interments have recently taken place outside the churchyard, and this
slag has been dug up. Mr Macadam finds that it contains 29½ per cent. of
metallic iron, and 8¼ per cent. of insoluble silicates. He does not
think this slag has been the result of iron-smelting.
* * * * *
Two notices not already quoted referring to iron mines or the
manufacture of iron in the neighbourhood of Loch Maree or Loch Ewe ought
to be mentioned before concluding this part of our subject.
The following is an extract from the letterpress (written in 1660) on
the back of Blaeu's map of the north of Scotland--the old Dutch map
previously referred to in these pages. It seems to speak of an outer and
inner Loch Ewe, the latter (Loch Maree) surrounded by thick woods where
in past years there had been iron mines (_ysermijnen_).
After describing Kintail, and then Lochcarron, it goes on to say
(proceeding northwards):--"Dus voort-tredende komt men aen eenige
onbekende zeeboesems, en den volght de zeeboesem Ew, en duysent schreden
daer boven de binnenzee Ew, van alle zijden met dichte bosschen
beslotten, daer in de voorgaende jaren ysermijnen gevonden zijn, en ick
weet niet of men noch heden daer aen arbeyt."
The other notice occurs in the "Present State of Great Britain and
Ireland," printed by J. Brotherton, London, 1742, where we read that
"further on the same coast lies Loch Ewe with thick woods on all sides,
where a great deal of iron was formerly made."
This brings to a close my remarks on the old ironworks of Gairloch. The
dense forests of timber that yielded the charcoal used by the
iron-smelters of old have disappeared, and coal, which is not found in
Gairloch, is now the usual fuel for smelting. The local bog iron does
not occur in such quantities as would be required for profitable working
in the present day. It is therefore unlikely that the iron industry will
again find a footing in Gairloch; but it must ever be interesting to
recall what we know of the ironworks, both those commenced by the
illustrious Earl of Kinnoull, and the others of more ancient date.
[Illustration: ON THE EWE.]
The existing remains almost go to prove that the parish of Gairloch has
been in bygone days the "Black Country" of the west coast. Whilst
admiring the energy and skill of the former ironworkers, may we not be
allowed to express the hope that charcoal burnings and iron furnaces may
never again--at least in our time--be set agoing to mar with their smoke
and refuse the beautiful shores of Loch Maree and the river Ewe?
Chapter XXI.
ANTIQUITIES.
In this chapter I shall attempt little more than to catalogue the
objects of archæological interest in Gairloch parish, and to suggest
some subjects for the investigation of archæologists.
Gairloch is very deficient in remains of old buildings. In ancient times
the mason's art was unknown in the district, and the erections of those
days were formed of uncemented and unchiselled stones, so that no
architectural features are to be found among the slight remains of
ancient buildings.
Of Druidical, or supposed Druidical, remains there are very few in
Gairloch, and even these are of doubtful origin. The only place
connected by local tradition with the Druids is a circular enclosure in
Tollie wood. It is formed of a rough wall enclosing a regular circle.
The stones composing the wall are of comparatively small size, and are
much scattered. There are several heaps of stones and remains of
detached pieces of wall near the circle. This part of Tollie wood
consists mostly of indigenous oaks, which are said to be descended from
the oaks of the Druids. By some the traditional Druidical origin of
these remains is discredited, and the circle and other buildings are
supposed to have been fanks or folds for cattle or sheep. The tradition
is however generally current in Gairloch, and at least deserves
consideration.
The circular enclosure on Isle Maree, which has for many centuries been
used as a burial-ground, was supposed by Thomas Pennant (Appendix B) to
be Druidical, and Dr Arthur Mitchell inclines to the same opinion. The
sacrifices of bulls, and other pagan practices, connected with this
island, render this view highly probable.
The circular island in the paddock below Flowerdale House, which was
until recent times the place where justice was administered in Gairloch,
is probably Druidical. It is to-day scarcely an island, the moat or
ditch which formerly insulated it being now filled up, or nearly so. It
formed no part of the Tigh Dige, or its garden or outbuildings, which
were all in the field on the seaward side of the paddock. A full account
of the manner in which the administration of justice was conducted at
this island will be given in Part II., chap. iii. The curious way in
which the laird and his assessors or jurymen were stationed at trees
favours the Druidical origin; the criminal and his accusers were also
stationed at ancient trees.
Of other prehistoric remains the Pictish brochs or round houses are
perhaps the most notable. One occurs on Craig Bhan, on the north-east
side of the river Ewe, half-way between Poolewe and Inveran, within two
hundred yards of the road. Another round house, with unusually high and
perfect walls, stands on a grassy eminence to the east of the road
between Poolewe and Tournaig. Three others were exposed to view in
trenching new land on the shores of Loch nan Dailthean at Tournaig
several years ago. Some steatite whorls, stone troughs (_see
illustrations_), ashes, and other remains, were found in them. Other
round houses occur near Kernsary, and in other places. No doubt the
remains of many are now concealed by an overgrowth of heather and other
plants, and many more have been destroyed by agricultural operations.
The only vitrified fort in Gairloch stood on the rocky eminence near the
volunteer targets at the south-west end of the largest sandy beach at
Gairloch. Slight traces of the vitrification are said to be still found.
There are remains of a number of ancient strongholds or fortalices in
Gairloch. Some were duns or castles, others were crannags or crannogs,
_i.e._ fortified islands, more or less artificial.
The one most frequently mentioned in the traditions of the country is
the Dun or Castle of Gairloch. It occupied the same site as the
vitrified fort just referred to. Probably it was more of a fortification
than a castle. Some of the low banks or lines of stones on the rocky
eminence are said to be the ruins of the castle walls. This dun is said
to have been a stronghold of the MacBeaths, and subsequently of the
M'Leods.
The remains on Eilean Grudidh are more perfect. The natural rocky bank
of the island appears to have been completed and heightened into a
fortification by rude masonry cemented with clay. This fortification
surrounded the island; the interior formed a tolerably level plateau,
now much overgrown; on this plateau are slight remains of buildings,
which in the present day are little more than mounds. At one place there
is a deep hole with a circular wall round it; tradition says this was a
dungeon. The area of Eilean Grudidh is barely half an acre. Like the Dun
of Gairloch, it is said to have been held by the MacBeaths and
afterwards by the M'Leods.
Of the stronghold, or rather crannog, on Loch Tollie, there only remain
the loose stones scattered on the little island (now overgrown by
bushes) and in the water around it. This small island (_see
illustration_) is to-day the nesting-place of two or three pairs of the
common gull, and no one would suppose that it was once a fortalice of
the MacBeaths, and subsequently of the M'Leods.
Another stronghold, or dun, said to have been the last held in Gairloch
by the M'Leods, is now only known by a large mound, apparently natural,
with traces of a long straight bank on its top, and by the name Uamh nam
Freiceadain. It is situated on the headland between Port Henderson and
Opinan; its position is marked on the six-inch ordnance map. The name
Uamh is said to be derived from a recess on the face of the hill towards
the sea.
There were also duns at Tournaig and Naast. The site of the former is
still called Dunan, or the "little dun"; it is only evidenced to-day by
the large stepping-stones that give dry access to it at the highest
spring-tides. There are no remains of the castle of Naast, said to have
been a fortalice of Vikings. The rock on which it was situated still
bears the name of Dun Naast.
There are crannogs, or artificial islands, on Lochs Kernsary and Mhic
'ille Rhiabhaich; nothing is known of their history. It is interesting
to recall that, in the instructions given by the Privy Council of
Scotland to the commissioners appointed in 1608 to treat with the
Highland chiefs, "crannaks" were specially referred to. They must have
caused much difficulty in dealing with the Highlanders, who found in
them secure refuges against attacks by government agents.
There were six churches, or places of worship, in old days in Gairloch,
mentioned in the traditions still current among the people, and referred
to in chapter xvi. of this Part:--
1. The church of Gairloch was originally dedicated to St Maelrubha, and
perhaps erected by him in the seventh century; it stood near the centre
of the burial-ground at Gairloch. There are no remains whatever of it.
In the Dutch map of 1662 the place is called Heglis Ghearrloch, _i.e._
the church of Gairloch.
2. The church at Culinellan, near Kenlochewe, was mentioned in the Old
Statistical Account (Appendix C) as a place of worship at Kenlochewe; no
traces of it remain. It is probably the church referred to in the map of
1662 as Heglis Loch Ew.
3. The turf-built place of worship near the beach in Tollie bay was but
a temporary expedient; some remains of it (since obliterated by farming
operations) existed in the memory of old men now living.
4. A little church or meeting-house stood at Cruive End or Tollie Croft.
Here Pennant heard the Rev. John Dounie preach in 1772, and here some
old people still living attended public worship up to 1826, when it fell
into disuse upon the erection of the present church at Poolewe. It was a
thatched house, and agricultural works have destroyed all traces of it.
5. The church or chapel of Inverewe stood in what is still called the
Inverewe churchyard. This place is perhaps more generally known as the
Londubh burial-ground. The old name of Londubh is Baile na h' Eaglais,
which means the town of the church. The burial-ground is a hundred yards
to the east of the road leading from Poolewe towards Aultbea, a short
distance beyond Pool House. The house where James Mackenzie lives is
close to the churchyard; this house used to be the residence of the
proprietors of Kernsary; the place is now called Kirkton, a literal
translation of Baile na h' Eaglais. What is left of this old church of
Inverewe is supposed by some to be the remains of the oldest church in
Gairloch parish. It seems to have been forty feet long and eighteen feet
wide; it was not placed due east and west. The original wall forming the
north-east side of the church is still standing, overgrown with a large
mass of ivy. The Rev. Kenneth Mackenzie, from Bute, founder of the
Kernsary family (Part I., chap, xiv.), purchased the Kernsary estate,
including this churchyard, some time during the seventeenth century. He
was an Episcopalian clergyman, and held services in the church of
Inverewe, probably with much acceptance among his neighbours, who clung
to the old form of worship long after Presbyterianism had been
established by law. It seems likely he built this little church; some
say he only restored an older church; in either case this may have been
the site of an ancient pre-Reformation church, and even of a monastic
institution, for there are many traces of buildings in the
neighbourhood. On the death of Mr Mackenzie there was no one to conduct
services here; and on the final establishment of Presbyterianism in
Scotland in 1689, or within a few years thereafter, the church was
partly pulled down, and the two present roofless apartments or chapels
were constructed out of its remains for family burial-places; they have
since been used as such. The Inverewe church does not seem to have
possessed any architectural features; a moulding round the door of one
of the burial-places is Jacobean. A loose stone in one of the
burial-places is inscribed "K M K 1678," and very likely records the
date when the Rev. Kenneth Mackenzie built or restored the church. On
the lintel of the door of the principal burial-place are initials and a
date, now nearly eradicated by decay; the date looks as if it had been
the same as that on the loose stone. The stone basin of the font lies
loose in the burial-ground near; a stone now placed over a grave is
moulded along one edge, and may possibly have formed part of the altar.
6. The chapel of Sand of Udrigil (_see illustration_), situated in a
churchyard crowded with graves, close to the village of Laide, is stated
in Dr Scott's Fasti Ecclesiæ Scoticanæ, Part V., to have been built
(about 1713) by George Mackenzie of Gruinard, at his own expense, as a
Presbyterian place of worship; but the universal tradition in Gairloch
is, that the little church was erected by St Columba, the apostle of
Scotland, or one of his followers, in the seventh century, and that the
chapel was only thatched by George Mackenzie of Gruinard, if indeed his
place of worship were not an altogether different edifice. I incline to
the opinion that the chapel dates further back than the eighteenth
century. It seems to have been an Episcopal church, for (1) it is placed
nearly east and west; and (2) when I first knew the little ruin, its
single window showed what appeared to be the remains of a mullion and
tracery, which I would not have expected in a Presbyterian church of the
eighteenth century. If then the church be older than the time of George
Mackenzie of Gruinard, who can say that the local tradition may not be
authentic? The walls of the church are cemented with lime made by
burning shells, or possibly shell sand from the island of Tanera, some
twelve miles away. I am bound to say that several houses in the
locality, known not to date further back than the eighteenth century,
were cemented with similar lime, notably the old house of Ardlair,
demolished about 1883. The strength of such lime was shown at Ardlair,
where blasting-powder had to be resorted to for the destruction of the
old house. The little church of Sand is very picturesquely placed near
the seashore.
Of old burial-places worth examination there are several in Gairloch:--
1. The Cladh nan Sasunnach, or English burial-ground, near the head of
Loch Maree. It contains twenty-four graves. Some have supposed that it
was the cemetery of the ironworkers, but I incline to the opinion that
the graves are far older than the period of the historic ironworks (Part
I., chap. xviii.). I recommend this burial-ground to the investigation
of antiquaries.
2. The burial-place in Isle Maree so thoroughly described by Dr Arthur
Mitchell (Part II., chap. xi.). Its most interesting gravestones are
those beneath which the unfortunate Norwegian prince and his bride are
sleeping.
3. The mounds to be seen on Fraoch Eilean, in Gairloch, mark the graves
of the M'Leods slain by the heroes of Leac nan Saighead (Part I., chap.
xii.).
4. The Gairloch churchyard is now overcrowded with graves. In it are the
chapel or burial-place where lie some of the older lairds of Gairloch,
and the tombstone of John Hay, described in Part I., chap. xviii. There
are two unroofed chapels or burial-places. The northern one is that of
the lairds of Gairloch; it contains two flat tombstones, one not
inscribed, the other bearing an illegible inscription. Outside this
chapel is a raised tomb covered with a flat bevelled stone, on which are
the Cabar feidh, the initials K M K and I M K, and the date 1730. In the
other burial-place are several graves, but no monuments or inscriptions;
outside it, on the east wall, are monuments to the Chisholm family. Into
the wall facing south is built a handsomely sculptured stone, with the
text "Timor domini est initium sapientiæ" carved upon it in relief;
below is what looks like a representation of the Cabar feidh, with the
letter A on one side and M K on the other side. The date 1633 is cut
into the stone, in a different character and evidently by a different
hand to that of the original sculptor. If the date were 1638 the stone
would unquestionably be a monument to Alexander (Alastair Breac), fifth
laird of Gairloch; perhaps it may have been in memory of one of his
family. Many of the leading celebrities among the natives of Gairloch in
the days that are gone repose in the churchyard. None of the older
gravestones bear inscriptions. Of modern ones, the monument to William
Ross, the Gairloch bard, is most noticeable.
5. The Inverewe churchyard, where stands the ruined old chapel already
described. A few shapeless stones are the only antiquities beyond those
connected with the little church.
6. The churchyard or burial-place at Culinellan, near Kenlochewe, to
which the same remark applies.
7. The churchyard at Sand of Udrigil already referred to. It contains
nothing except the ruins of the old chapel which can interest the
archæologist.
I am told an ancient burial-place was discovered some years ago at
Bruachaig, near Kenlochewe, where the bodies had been buried in a
doubled-up position, the well-known custom in remote times. I have
visited another spot, in a glen among the mountains, traditionally
described as a burial-place of giants; it may have been so, but the
stones (which indeed are mostly flat) look more as if they had been
deposited naturally than by human agency.
Of remains of old buildings, besides those already described, there are
few of any antiquarian interest in Gairloch:--
1. Perhaps the oldest remains of these other buildings are the few
stones and the mound on Isle Maree, supposed to represent the cell of St
Maelrubha and the tower to which the Norwegian prince brought his bride
(Part I., chap. ii.).
2. On Eilean Ruaridh Beag are the remains of the residence of John Roy
Mackenzie, fourth laird of Gairloch, who lived here in the latter part
of the sixteenth century and the beginning of the seventeenth. It is
said that long before that time Ruaridh M'Leod, who gave his name to the
island, resided here, possibly in the same house, or in one on the same
site. This small island almost adjoins Eilean Ruaridh Mhor on its south
side. The buildings present no architectural features, and only ruinous
dry-stone walls remain; there are also some half-wild garden fruit-trees
on the island. I remember about the year 1868 seeing a small cannon ball
sticking in one of the walls, and I am told that bullets have often been
found in the moss on this island. Perhaps the cannon ball and the
bullets had been there since the fight when Ruaridh M'Leod was driven
from the island. The remains of John Roy's house confirm Captain Burt's
accounts of the "huts" in which the Highland lairds of his day (early in
the eighteenth century) resided; the chiefs seem to have been generally
little better lodged than their clansmen.
3. On Eilean Suainne were the houses or huts where the sons of John
Glassich Mackenzie, the second laird of Gairloch, dwelt in the sixteenth
century, and where Alastair Breac, the fifth laird of Gairloch, resided
from about 1628 to 1638. There are very slight, if any, remains of these
dwellings.
4. The old Tigh Dige and its gardens and outbuildings stood in the field
below Flowerdale House. The Tigh Dige itself was, as its name implies, a
house in a ditch or moat. Its remains still existed up to the time of
the late Sir Francis Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, in the centre of this
field, but agricultural operations have now entirely obliterated them.
Simon Chisholm, at Flowerdale, remembers them well. The lines of the
garden walls can still be traced in the part of the field lying to the
east. This was the Gairloch home of Hector Roy Mackenzie, the founder of
the family in the latter part of the fifteenth century. The Tigh Dige is
said to have been originally a turf hut, with a roof made of sticks and
divots. Kenneth Mackenzie, the sixth laird of Gairloch, erected on the
same site, within the same moat, about the middle of the seventeenth
century, a more substantial building, which was called the Stank House
or Moat House, and continued to be the west coast home of the Gairloch
family until 1738, when Sir Alexander Mackenzie, Bart., the ninth laird
of Gairloch, erected the present west coast residence of the family,
which he named Flowerdale House. Sir Alexander also built there the old
barn called Sabhal Geal (still in use) in 1730. On the south side of the
barn the arms of the Gairloch Mackenzies are carved in stone, with the
date 1730 below. The figure of Donald Odhar, in tartan trews, appears as
one of the supporters of the shield. There are two Latin mottoes, viz.,
"Fidelitatis præmium" and "Non sine periculo;" the former (above the
coat-of-arms) refers to the faithfulness of Donald Odhar; the latter is
the usual motto of the Mackenzies. The old Temple House at Flowerdale,
where Alastair Breac seems to have sometimes lived, is now occupied by
Simon Chisholm above named, who is Sir Kenneth's present forester and
head-gardener. It is a modernised dwelling. No doubt a great part of the
wall is ancient. Simon Chisholm says the style of the windows and
entrance when he first remembers the house, gave probability to the
tradition that it was originally, as its name implies, a church or
temple of worship. It may have been the residence of the priest or
priests of Gairloch church before the Reformation.
5. The old house of Kirkton, close to the Inverewe or Londubh
churchyard, is probably the house erected as his residence by the Rev.
Kenneth Mackenzie, in the seventeenth century. It is a good example of a
laird's dwelling of that period. It is said that Mr. Mackenzie, who came
from Bute, had a smack load of Bute earth brought to Kirkton. Part of it
was put into the Inverewe church, so that when he was buried there he
might lie beneath Bute soil; the overplus was deposited in the garden of
Kirkton house, where the heap is still preserved.
6. The houses of Udrigil and Aird were old residences of the Mackenzies
of Gruinard, but possess no architectural features, and are not of great
antiquity. The same remark applies to Letterewe House, which was the
residence of the Letterewe Mackenzies. Cliff House, Poolewe, was
formerly the manse of Gairloch, and was erected about 1760. In the old
house of Udrigil are curious large cupboards or closets in the very
thick walls; they are said to have been used for the purpose of
detaining recruits captured by the pressgangs.
[Illustration: ANTIQUITY NO. 1.--BRONZE RING FOUND AT LONDUBH.
SCALE--HALF TRUE SIZE.]
Most of the bronze weapons and other remains found near Poolewe have
been described by Mr William Jolly, F.G.S., F.R.S.E., in a paper he
wrote on the subject. Representations of the most perfect of the bronze
and stone weapons or implements so far discovered are included in our
illustrations. The following is a list of them:--
No. 1. Bronze ring, T-shaped section.
2. Hollow bronze ring.
3. Bronze spearhead, small.
4. Bronze spearhead.
5. Bronze celt.
6. Stone celt.
7. Bronze spear.
8. Bronze celt.
9. Stone implement.
10. Quern or trough.
11. Fragment of trough.
12. Penanular ring.
All these except Nos. 3 and 9 to 12 are in the possession of Sir Kenneth
Mackenzie; Nos. 3, 9, 10, and 11 are in the possession of Mr O. H.
Mackenzie. Nos. 1, 2, 4, and 8 were found by Hector Maciver whilst
cutting peats at Londubh. No. 3 was found near Inverewe House, about
three feet below the surface in a peat cutting; a stag's horn was found
at the same place in the following year. No. 5 was found at Slatadale;
it is considerably worn. No. 6 was found at Cove; it is of some variety
of trap well polished. No. 7 was found by two sons of Kenneth Urquhart
(Kennie Rob) in a peat cutting near Croft, not far from the place where
the Feill Iudha was formerly held. No. 9 was found in 1844 in a peat
cutting between Inveran and Kernsary; it is of a sandstone uncommon in
this country; it may have been used in flaying cattle and deer. Nos. 10
and 11 were found in brochs or Pictish round houses on the shores of
Loch nan Dailthean, when land was newly trenched there in 1879. No. 12
is a penanular ring of bronze with expanded ends; being of a type rare
in Scotland, Sir Kenneth Mackenzie deposited it in the museum of
antiquities at Edinburgh. Hector Maciver found another bronze ring at
Londubh, similar to Nos. 1 and 2, at the same spot where he discovered
the above-named. There is a stone quern, resembling No. 10, lying near
Drumchork House.
[Illustration: ANTIQUITY NO. 2. HOLLOW BRONZE RING FOUND AT LONDUBH.
SCALE--HALF TRUE SIZE.]
[Illustration: ANTIQUITY NO. 3.--BRONZE SPEAR HEAD FOUND, ALONG WITH A
STAG'S HORN, NEAR INVEREWE HOUSE.
SCALE--HALF TRUE SIZE.]
On the flat peat moss behind Poolewe, and to the west, a large market
was held for generations, known as the Feill Iudha, or "ewe market." It
was frequented by the Lews men, as well as by the people of the
district. The last of these markets was held about 1720, when many of
the Lews men who had attended the market were lost in a violent storm in
the Minch, while returning home in their open boats. Traces of this old
market have frequently turned up while cutting peats, in the form of
bundles of cabars or sticks tied up with withes, as brought from the
woods ready for exportation; moulds of some fatty substance, either
butter or tallow; and a rounded block of wood, fourteen inches in
diameter, found ten or twelve years ago, probably prepared for being
converted into the wooden bickers or plates formerly common in the
Highlands.
The remains of the ironworks described in the last chapter are of
considerable archæological interest. Two of the iron articles found near
the Fasagh furnaces are represented among our illustrations; they are
Nos. 13 and 14 in the list of antiquities illustrated; they are to be
deposited in the museum at Edinburgh.
Among our illustrations are outlines of the crosses on the tombstones of
the prince and princess who were buried on Isle Maree. The tragic story
connected with them is told in Part I., chap. ii.
The caves at Cove and Sand of Udrigil are said to be meeting-places of
great antiquity; they are still used for public worship. I have explored
for some little distance the cave on the seashore at North Erradale, but
have discovered nothing of interest beyond some apparently recent
evidences of distillation of whisky.
PART II.
INHABITANTS OF GAIRLOCH.
CHAPTER PAGE
I. Ancestry and Names 109
II. Warfare and Weapons 112
III. Polity and Customs 114
IV. Religion and Religious Observances 117
V. Character and Characteristics 121
VI. Language and Dress 125
VII. Ways and Means 132
VIII. Agriculture and Stock 136
IX. Fisheries 143
X. Posts and Roadmaking 147
XI. Superstitions of Isle Maree 150
XII. Superstitions of Isle Maree--continued 153
XIII. Superstitions generally 158
XIV. Witchcraft and Magic 163
XV. Visions and Second Sight 169
XVI. Bards and Pipers 173
XVII. Hereditary Pipers of the Gairloch Family 177
XVIII. William Mackenzie and Malcolm Maclean 180
XIX. William Ross, the Gairloch Bard 183
XX. Alexander Campbell, Bard to Sir Hector 185
XXI. Alexander Grant, the great Bard of Slaggan 187
XXII. John Mackenzie of "The Beauties" 189
XXIII. Living Gairloch Bards 192
XXIV. The Poolewe Artist 200
XXV. James Mackenzie's Gairloch Stories 201
Chapter I.
ANCESTRY AND NAMES.
No traveller can claim even a moderate acquaintance with the parish of
Gairloch unless he has acquired some knowledge of her Highland
population. This part of our book is designed to help the reader in
obtaining that knowledge; nevertheless it is not intended to supersede
personal inquiry and observation.
To the casual observer the people here differ very little from the
inhabitants of other parts of Great Britain; a closer examination
reveals peculiarities in their race, language, manners and customs,
superstitions, religious observances, and other characteristics, well
worthy the examination of all who resort to this romantic country.
There is a common misconception on the part of English tourists who pay
flying visits to the Highlands. Many of them suppose that the natives
are of the same blood, and speak the same dialect, as the lowland Scot.
Nothing could be further from the fact. To speak of a Highlander "as a
Scotsman only," is, as Captain Burt says, "as indefinite as barely to
call a Frenchman an European." The Highlander, though inhabiting a part
of Scotland, is essentially different from the typical Scotchman. The
apprehension of this truth, which will be illustrated in the following
pages, is the first step towards the knowledge of the Gairloch
Highlanders.
In Part I., chap. i., we have seen how the original Pictish tribe of the
Caledonians called the Cantæ, who inhabited Ross-shire, became
intermixed with two foreign, yet probably cognate breeds, the Norwegians
and the Danes. Further admixture of blood took place by the settlement
in Gairloch of Highlanders of other septs, particularly the MacBeaths,
M'Leods, MacRaes, and Macdonalds. The ironworkers left their mark on the
breed, in such names as Cross, Kemp, and Bethune or Beaton. In more
recent times sheep-farming brought lowland blood, identified by the
names of Watson, Reid, Stewart, MacClymont, Lawrie, Boa, &c. Again, it
is said, no doubt with truth, that some few English or even foreign
sailors have at different times settled in Gairloch, owing to shipwrecks
or other causes. A Spanish ship, possibly connected with the Armada, is
said to have been wrecked on the Greenstone Point, and one or two
persons used to be pointed out who, though bearing native names, were
believed from their dark wavy hair to have Spanish blood in their veins.
So the Taylors of Badachro are descended from a lowland sailor lad.
Lastly, the minor admixtures of blood from the immigration of attendants
who came with brides of the Gairloch lairds (of whom are the Campbells
or M'Ivers, Grants, Chisholms, &c.), and of some other individuals
mentioned in these pages, such as Rorie Mackay, the piper, have, in a
less degree, leavened the Gairloch breed. On the whole, however, it must
be considered as mainly sprung from the original Pictish stock, herein
differing _ab initio_ from the lowland race.
[Illustration: ANTIQUITY NO. 4. BRONZE SPEAR HEAD FOUND AT LONDUBH.
SCALE--HALF TRUE SIZE.]
[Illustration: ANTIQUITY NO. 5. BRONZE CELT FOUND AT SLATADALE.
SCALE--HALF TRUE SIZE.]
The surname Mackenzie greatly predominates in Gairloch, and there are a
number of distinct families of that name; many of them have an unbroken
lineage from one or other of the lords of Kintail, or of the lairds of
Gairloch, whose ancient origin has already been given. In the present
day pedigrees are less thought of than in the time of the old
seannachies, who were the genealogists of their clans, but many people
now living in humble circumstances could, if they pleased, trace their
ancestry a thousand years in an unbroken line through the original
Kenneth, the progenitor of the family. The blood of kings and nobles
flows in their veins, and accounts no doubt for the innate courtesy and
gentle manner often noticeable among the humblest of the Gairloch
Highlanders.
Surnames were little used in Gairloch in old times, and it is supposed
that many persons of different races who settled in the Mackenzie
country were after a time reckoned to be Mackenzies. Possibly the clan
name was originally adopted only as a means of connecting the follower
with his chief, whose tartan of course he wore for identification.
To the present day surnames are little used in Gairloch when Gaelic is
being spoken, and even in English a number of men are often called by
the equivalents of their Gaelic names. These Gaelic names are formed by
the addition to the Christian name of a _soubriquet_ or byname, often
hereditary, or else of the father's, grandfather's, and even the
great-grandfather's Christian names or some or one of them. Thus in the
minutes of the Presbytery of Dingwall, referring to sacrifices of bulls
(Appendix F), we find the names of Donald M'Eaine Roy vic Choinnich and
Murdo M'Conill varchu vic Conill vic Allister, which in English are
respectively "Donald the son of John Roy the son of Kenneth" and "Murdo
the son of Donald Murdo the son of Donald the son of Alexander." "Roy,"
properly "Ruadh," happens to be the only _soubriquet_ in these two
compound names. Take some examples from names of men now
living:--Alexander Mackenzie, the senior piper of the Gairloch
volunteers, is the son of John Mackenzie of Moss Bank; the father is
known as Iain Glas, _i.e._ Pale John; the son is always called in Gaelic
Ali' Iain Ghlais, _i.e._ Alexander [son] of Pale John. This name also
illustrates the custom of continuing a _soubriquet_, whether appropriate
or not, from one generation to another; Iain Glas is so called, not
because he has a pale face, but because the byname had belonged to an
uncle of his. So we find John M'Lean, the industrious crofter on the
east side of the Ewe, called Iain Buidhe, or Yellow-haired John, not
because he has yellow hair, but because an ancestor of his was dubbed
with that byname.
Among very numerous instances of the application of bynames to men now
living, the following may be given:--Donald Og, Alie Ruadh, Uilleam
Ruadh, Alie Beag, Iain Dubh, Eachainn Geal, Seann Seoc, and Alie
Uistean, meaning respectively Young Donald, Red-haired Alexander,
Red-haired William, Little Alexander, Black John, White Hector, Old
Jock, and Alexander Hugh. Young Donald is an elderly man; Little
Alexander a tall man; Old Jock acquired the name as a boy because he had
then an old head on young shoulders; and Alexander Hugh is so called
because he had an ancestor named Hugh, though he himself was baptized
Alexander only. In each of these cases the individual is either a
Mackenzie, Urquhart, or Maclennan, but is never so called by his
neighbours. The same system of nomenclature is similarly applied to the
other sex.
It is worth notice that several Gaelic names are not translatable into
English; thus Eachainn is not really Gaelic for Hector, any more than
Uistean is for Hugh, but these English names have long been adopted as
reasonably good equivalents for the Gaelic.
Some female names in Gairloch sound strange to lowland ears, _i.e._
those formed by adding _ina_ to a man's name not usually associated with
that termination in the south,--for example, Simonina, Donaldina,
Murdina, Seumasina (or Jamesina), Angusina, Hectorina, &c.