CHAPTER IX

“SMART WOMEN” THROUGH THE VEIL

In answer to my query as to whether Caux had smart enough visitors to

justify an editor sending there a special correspondent, I had the

following letter from Zeyneb:

CAUX, _Jan._ 1907.

The articles which I have written for you on the beauties of

Switzerland will possibly not appeal to the British public.

For a long time last night, when I returned to my room, I tried to

make you understand the intense delight I had felt in watching the

good-night kiss which the lovesick moon had given to the beautiful

lake, before going away far into space.

This moon scene reminds me more than ever of one of our magnificent

moonlights on the Bosphorus, and I am sure if you had been with me

on the Terrace you would have loved the moonlit Bosphorus for its

resemblance to Leman, and Leman for helping you to understand how

wonderful is the Bosphorus. But the poetry of moonlight does not appeal

evidently to the British soul, since they are clamouring for news of

people who are “smart.”

I have always wondered at the eagerness with which the society ladies

here seize the paper. Now I understand—it is to see whether their names

are included amongst people “who are smart.” What a morbid taste, to

want to see one’s name in a newspaper!

I could not tell you whether the people or the life at Caux would be

considered smart. They certainly are extraordinary, and the life they

lead seems to me to be a complete reversal of all prevailing customs.

From early in the morning till late at night they toboggan and skate.

Everything is arranged with a view to the practice of these two sports.

I cannot tell you the disagreeable impression that the women produce on

me, sitting astride of their little machines and coming down the slope

with a giddy rapidity. Their hair is all out of order, their faces

vivid scarlet, and their skirts, arranged like those of a Cambodgian

dancer, are lacking in grace. But this is not a competition for a

beauty prize; all that counts is to go more quickly down the course

than the others, no matter whether you kill yourself in the attempt.

That there are people in England who are interested in knowing who is

staying at a Swiss Hotel, the guests they receive, and the clothes they

wear, is an unpleasant discovery for me. I thought English people were

more intelligent.

One of the reasons for which we left Turkey was, that we could no

longer bear the degrading supervision of the Sultan’s spies. But is it

not almost the same here? Here, too, there are detectives of a kind!

Alas! Alas! there is no privacy inside or outside Turkey.

The people who interest me most are not the smart ladies, but the Swiss

themselves. They alone in all this cosmopolitan crowd know that the

sun has flooded with its golden tints the wonderful panorama of their

mountains, the lake stretches out in a mystery of mauve and rose, and

they alone have time to bow in admiration to the Creator of Beauty and

the great Poet of Nature.—Affectionately,

ZEYNEB.

A Turkish Woman's European Impressions · 第 9 / 20 章