CHAPTER VIII.

VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS.

'Tis said Enceladus' huge frame,

Heart-stricken by the avenging flame,

Is prisoned here, and underneath

Gasps through each vent his sulphurous breath;

And still as his tired side shifts round,

Trinacia echoes to the sound

Through all its length, while clouds of smoke

The living soul of ether choke.

VIRGIL: _Æneid iii._

In some parts of the world we meet with mountains of a very different

kind from any we have yet considered,--mountains that are known

at times to send forth fiery streams of glowing lava, and to emit

with terrific force great clouds of steam. Such mountains have

long been known, in popular but unscientific language, as "burning

mountains,"[25]--a term which is unfortunate, because they do not

burn in the proper sense of the word, like candles or gas-jets. They

are better known as volcanoes. There are about three hundred and

fifty known active volcanoes; and if we include all mountains that

once were in that state, the number is about one thousand.

[25] See papers by the writer on Volcanoes and Volcanic Action

in "Knowledge" for May and June, 1891, on which this chapter is

partly based.

Such mountains are connected in a curious way with those upheaved

ridges of the world known as mountain-chains (see chap. vi., p.

191). And not only are many mountains more or less penetrated and

intersected by rocks of an igneous origin (see chap. v., p. 155),

but some have been largely formed by the action of old volcanoes.

In fact, there are hills in Great Britain and parts of Europe, in

America, and other countries, that once were actual volcanoes (see

page 277).

We must briefly consider these strange mountains so different from

others, and see what we can find out about them. Let us first inquire

how a volcano is made, then consider what a volcano does; that is, we

must view it as a geological agent that has a certain definite part

to play in the economy of the world. And lastly, we may glance at

some of the old volcanoes, and see what they were doing in those long

ages of the world during which the great series of the stratified

rocks were formed,--which rocks are, as it were, the book in which

the earth has written her autobiography.

In old days volcanoes were regarded with superstitious awe; and any

investigation of their actions would have been considered rash and

impious in the highest degree. Mount Etna, as Virgil tells us, was

supposed to mark the spot where the angry gods had buried Enceladus,

one of the rebellious giants. Volcano, a certain "burning mountain"

in the Lipa Islands, was likewise called the forge, or workshop,

of Vulcan (or Volcan), the god of fire. And so it comes about that

all "burning mountains" take their name from this one Mediterranean

island, and at the same time tell us of the mythological origin of

the word. It has been said that words are "fossil thoughts;" and we

have here an old and very much fossilised thought,--a kind of thought

long since extinct among civilised peoples, and one which is never

likely to come to life again.

A volcanic mountain consists of alternating sheets of lava and

volcanic ashes, mantling over each other in an irregular way,

and all sloping away from the centre. In the centre is a pit or

chimney, widening out towards the top so as to resemble a funnel or

cup; hence the name "crater," which means a cup. In the centre of

this crater a very small cone ("minor cone") is frequently found;

and it is interesting to find that many of the moon's volcanic

craters possess these "minor cones." A number of cracks or fissures

intersect the volcano. These frequently spread out from the centre

of the mountain in all directions, like the spokes of a wheel.

They generally get filled with lava that wells up from below, thus

forming "dykes," which may be regarded as so many sheets of igneous

rock, such as basalt, that have forced their way while still liquid

in among the layers of lava and ashes. The word "ash" is used by

geologists in a special sense; and volcanic ash is not, as might

be supposed, a deposit of cinders, but mostly of dust of various

degrees of fineness, and sometimes it is very fine indeed. Pieces

of pumice-stone may be embedded in a layer of volcanic ash, and

sometimes great blocks of stone that have been shot out of the

volcano as from a big gun, but these only form a small part of the

layer. Dykes strengthen the mountain, and tend to hold it together

when violently shaken during an eruption.

The shape and steepness of a volcano depend on the nature of the

materials ejected. The finer the volcanic ash, the steeper and more

conical is the mountain. The building up of a volcano may be fairly

illustrated by the little cone of sand formed in an hourglass as the

sand-grains fall. These settle down at a certain slope, or angle,

at which they can remain, instead of falling down to the bottom, as

they do directly this slope is exceeded. Some volcanoes are built up

almost entirely of volcanic ash and its embedded blocks. Vesuvius,

Teneriffe, Jorullo, in Mexico, and Cotopaxi, in the Andes, are

examples of steep volcanic cones built up in this way. Others, less

steep and more irregular in shape, are chiefly formed of successive

lava-flows. Little minor cones are frequently formed on the side of

a volcano; and these during an eruption give rise to small outbursts

of their own. They are easily accounted for by the dykes which are

mentioned just now; for when molten rock forces its way through

fissures, it sometimes finds an outlet at the surface, and being full

of steam, as soda-water is full of gas, it gives rise to an eruption.

The great opening in the centre of a volcano, with its molten lava,

is like a very big dyke that has reached the surface and so succeeded

in producing an eruption.

The opening of a soda-water bottle not infrequently illustrates a

volcanic eruption; for when the pent-up carbonic acid cannot escape

fast enough, it forces out some of the water, even when the bottle is

held upright.

Every volcano has been built up on a platform of ordinary stratified

rocks; and at some period _after_ these had been laid down in water

and raised up into dry land, molten rock found its way through them,

and so the volcano was built up by successive eruptions during many

years. It is probable that earthquake shocks, preceding the first

eruption, cracked up these strata, and so made a way for the lava to

come up.

The main point we wish to emphasize is that _volcanoes are never

formed by upheaval_. In this way they differ from all other

mountains. They have not been made by the heaving up of strata, but

have been gradually piled up, something like rubbish heaps that

accumulate in the Thames barges as the dustmen empty their carts into

them, only in the case of volcanoes the "rubbish" comes from below.

It is not necessary to suppose that the reservoir down below, from

which the molten rock is supplied, exists at any very great depth

below the original land surface on which the volcano grows up.

The old "upheaval theory" of volcanoes, once advocated by certain

authorities, instead of being based on actual evidence or on

reasoning from facts, was a mere guess. Moreover, if the explanation

we have given should not be sufficiently convincing, there is good

proof furnished by the case of a small volcano near Vesuvius, the

building of which was actually witnessed. It is called Monte Nuovo,

or the New Mountain. It is a little cone 430 feet high, on the bank

of Lake Averno, with a crater more than a mile and a half wide at the

base. It was almost entirely formed during a single night in the year

1538, A. D. We have two accounts of the eruption to which it owes

its existence; and each writer says distinctly that the mountain was

formed by the falling of stones and ashes.

One witness says,--

"Stones and ashes were thrown up with a noise like the

discharge of great artillery, in quantities which seemed as if

they would cover the whole earth; and in four days their fall

had formed a mountain in the valley between Monte Barbaro and

Lake Averno, of not less than three miles in circumference, and

almost as high as Monte Barbaro itself,--a thing incredible

to those who have not seen it, that in so short a time so

considerable a mountain should have been formed."

Another says,--

"Some of the stones were larger than an ox. The mud (ashes

mixed with water) was at first very liquid, then less so, and

in such quantities that with the help of the afore-mentioned

stones a mountain was raised one thousand paces in height."

(The writer's astonishment led him greatly to exaggerate the height.)

These accounts are important as showing how in a much longer time

a big volcano may be built up. From such small operations we learn

how Nature works on a large scale. The great volcano in Mexico known

as Jorullo was probably built up in a very similar way. There is a

tradition among the natives that it was made in two or three days;

but we can hardly believe that. Volcanoes, as they get older, tend

to grow taller and bigger; but every now and then a large portion may

be blown away by some great eruption, and they have, as it were, to

begin again.

[Illustration: THE ERUPTION OF VESUVIUS IN 1872. FROM AN

INSTANTANEOUS PHOTOGRAPH.]

Let us now consider volcanoes as geological agents, and see what

they do. A volcanic eruption may be described in a general way

as follows: Its advent is heralded by earthquakes affecting the

mountain and the whole country round; loud underground explosions

are heard, resembling the fire of distant artillery. The vibrations

are chiefly transmitted through the ground; the mountain seems

convulsed by internal throes, due, no doubt, to the efforts of the

imprisoned steam and liquid rock to find an opening. These signs are

accompanied by the drying up of wells and disappearance of springs,

since the water finds its way down new cracks in the rocks, caused

by the frequent shocks and quiverings. When at last an opening has

been made, the eruption begins,--generally with one tremendous

burst that shakes the whole mountain down to its foundations. After

this, frequent explosions follow with great rapidity and increasing

violence, generally from the crater. These are indicated by the

globular masses of steam which are to be seen rising up in a tall

column like that which issues from the funnel of a locomotive. But

sometimes the whole mountain seems to be more or less engaged in

giving out steam, and thus to be partly enveloped in it. This is

illustrated by our engraving from an instantaneous photograph of

Vesuvius in eruption in the year 1872. The steam and other gases, in

their violent ascent, hurl up into the air a great deal of solid rock

from the sides of the central opening, after first blowing out the

stones which previously stopped up the orifice.

Blocks of stone falling down meet with others coming up; and so a

tremendous pounding action takes place, the result of which is that

great quantities of volcanic dust and ashes are produced, generally

of extreme fineness. Winds and ocean currents transport these light

materials for long distances. The observations made during the

famous and fruitful voyage of H. M. S. "Challenger" showed that

fine volcanic dust is carried by wind and marine currents to almost

all parts of the oceans. The darkness so frequently mentioned in

accounts of eruptions--sometimes at a very great distance from the

volcano--is entirely caused by clouds of volcanic dust hiding the

light of the sun. Perhaps the best example of this is the case of the

eruption of Krakatoa (in the Strait of Sunda, between Sumatra and

Java) in 1883. Its explosions were heard in all directions for two

thousand miles, and a perceptible layer of volcanic dust fell at all

places within one thousand miles; while the finest dust and vapour,

shot up fifteen or twenty miles high, were spread all over the globe,

causing, while still suspended in the atmosphere, the peculiar red

sunsets noticed in all parts of the world for some months after the

eruption.

Again, those very curious deposits of "red clay" found in the very

deepest parts of the Pacific and Atlantic oceans (at depths of about

four thousand fathoms, or twenty-four thousand feet) have been shown

to be chiefly composed of volcanic dust, their red colour being due

to oxidised iron.

But there is another way in which a good deal of fine volcanic dust

is made; and it is this: the lava is so full of steam intimately

mixed up with it that the steam, in its violent effort to escape,

often blows the lava into mere dust.

Another interesting phenomenon may be thus described: Portions of

liquid, or half liquid, lava are caught up by the steam and hurled

into the air. These assume a more or less round form, and are known

as "bombs." At a distance they give rise to the appearance of

flames. And here we may remark that the flaring, coloured pictures

of Etna or Vesuvius in eruption, which frequently may be seen, are

by no means correct. The huge flames shooting up into the air are

quite imaginary, but are probably suggested by the glare and bright

reflection from glowing molten lava down in the crater.

So great is the force of the pent-up steam trying to escape that it

frequently blows a large part of the volcano bodily away; and in some

cases a whole mountain has been blown to pieces.

Finally, torrents of rain follow and accompany an eruption,--a result

which clearly follows from the condensation of large volumes of

steam expanding and rising up into the higher and cooler layers of

the atmosphere. Vast quantities of volcanic ash are caught up by the

rain, and in this way very large quantities of mud are washed down

the sides of the mountain.

Sometimes the mud-flows are on a large scale, and descending with

great force, bury a whole town. It was mostly in this way that the

ancient cities of Herculaneum and Pompeii were buried by the great

eruption of Vesuvius in the year 79 A. D., in which the elder Pliny

lost his life. The discoveries made during excavations at Pompeii are

of very great interest as illustrating old Roman life. The Italians

give the name _lava d'acqua_, or water-lava, to flows of this kind,

and they are greatly dreaded on account of their great rapidity. An

ordinary lava-stream creeps slowly along, so that people have time

to get out of the way; but in the case of mud-flows there is often

no time to escape. No lava-stream has ever reached Pompeii since it

was first built, although the foundations of the town stand upon an

old lava-flood. Herculaneum is nearer to Vesuvius, and has at times

been visited by lava-streams. Mud-lavas, ashes, and lava-streams have

accumulated over this city to a depth of over seventy feet.

Lava-streams vary greatly in size; in some cases the lava, escaping

from craters, comes to rest before reaching the base of the slopes of

the volcano; in other cases a lava-flow not only reaches the plains

below, but extends for many miles over the surrounding country.

Hence lava-streams are important geological agents. Let us look at

some famous instances. The most stupendous flow on record was that

which took place from Skaptar Jökull in Iceland, in the year 1783.

In this case a number of streams issued from the volcano, flooding

the country far and wide, filling up river gorges which were in some

cases six hundred feet deep and two hundred and fifty feet broad, and

advancing into the alluvial plains in lakes of molten rock twelve to

fifteen miles wide and one hundred feet deep. Two currents of lava

which flowed in nearly opposite directions spread out with varying

thickness according to the nature of the ground for forty and fifty

miles respectively. Had this great eruption taken place in the south

of England, all the country from the neighbourhood of London to

that of Gloucester might have been covered by a flood of basalt of

considerable thickness.

Sometimes, when the lava can only escape at a point low down on the

mountain, a fountain of molten rock will spout high into the air.

This has happened on Vesuvius and Etna. But in an eruption of Mauna

Loa, in the Sandwich Islands, an unbroken fountain of lava, from two

hundred to seven hundred feet high and one thousand feet broad, burst

out at the base of the mountain; and again in April, 1888, the same

thing happened on a still grander scale. In this case four fiery

fountains continued to play for several weeks, sometimes throwing

the glowing lava to a height of one thousand feet in the air. Surely

there can be no more wonderful or awful sight than this in the world.

The volcanoes of Hawaii, the principal island in the Sandwich

Islands, often send forth lava-streams covering an area of over

one hundred square miles to a depth of one hundred feet or more;

but they are discharged quite quietly, like water welling out of a

spring. Repeated flows of this kind, however, have in the course of

ages built up a great flat cone six miles high from the floor of the

ocean, to form this lofty island, which is larger than Surrey; and

it is calculated that the great volcanic mountain must contain enough

material to cover the whole of the United States with a layer of rock

fifty feet deep.

But it is not only on the surface of the land that volcanic eruptions

take place; for in some cases the outbreak of a submarine eruption

has been witnessed, and it is highly probable that in past geological

ages many large eruptions of this nature have taken place. In the

year 1783, an eruption took place about thirty miles off the west

coast of Iceland. An island was built up from which glowing vapour

and smoke came forth; but in a year or less the waves had washed

everything away, leaving only a submerged reef. The island of

Santorin, in the Greek Archipelago, is a partly submerged volcano.

But in some cases enormous outpourings of lava have taken place,

not from volcanoes, but from openings of the ground here and there,

and more usually from long fissures or cracks in the rocks lying at

the surface. In many cases so much lava has quietly welled out in

this way that the old features of the landscape have been completely

buried up, and wide plains and plateaux formed over them. Sir A.

Geikie says,--

"Some of the most remarkable examples of this type of volcanic

structure occur in western North America. Among these that of

the Snake River plain in Idaho may be briefly described.

"Surrounded on the north and east by lofty mountains, it

stretches westward as an apparently boundless desert of sand

and bare sheets of black basalt. A few streams descending into

the plain from the hills are soon swallowed up and lost. The

Snake River, however, flows across it, and has cut out of its

lava bed a series of picturesque gorges and rapids.

"The extent of country which has been flooded with basalt in

this and adjoining regions of Oregon and Washington has not

yet been accurately surveyed, but has been estimated to cover

a larger area than France and Great Britain combined. Looked

at from any point on its surface, one of these lava plains

appears as a vast level surface, like that of a lake bottom.

This uniformity has been produced either by the lava rolling

over a plain or lake bottom, or by the complete effacement of

an original, undulating contour of the ground under hundreds of

feet of lava in successive sheets. The lava, rolling up to the

base of the mountains, has followed the sinuosities of their

margin, as the waters of a lake follow its promontories and

bays."

A few further examples of mud-lavas may be mentioned here. Cotopaxi,

a great volcano in Ecuador, South America, with a height of 17,900

feet, reaches so high into the atmosphere that the higher parts are

capped with snow. In June, 1877, a great eruption took place, during

which the melting of snow and ice gave rise to torrents of mud and

water, which rushed down the steep sides of the mountain, so that

large blocks of ice were hurried along. The villages around to a

distance of about seventy miles were buried under a deposit of mud,

mixed with blocks of lava, ashes, pieces of wood, etc.

Sometimes a volcano discharges large quantities of mud directly

from the crater. In this case the mud is not manufactured by the

volcano itself, but finds its way through fissures and cracks from

the bed of the neighbouring sea or rivers to the crater. Thus, in

the year 1691, Imbaburu, one of the Andes of Quito, sent out floods

of mud containing dead fish, the decay of which caused fever in the

neighbourhood. In the same way the volcanoes of Java have often

buried large tracts of fertile country under a covering of volcanic

mud, thus causing great devastation.

Vast quantities of dust are produced, as already explained, by the

pounding action that takes place during an eruption, as portions

of rock in falling down meet others that are being hurled into the

air. Striking instances of this have occurred not far from Great

Britain. Thus in the year 1783, during an eruption of Skaptar Jökull,

so great was the amount of dust thus created that the atmosphere in

Iceland was loaded with it for several months. Carried by winds, it

even reached the northern parts of Scotland, and in Caithness so

much of it fell that the crops were destroyed. This is remarkable,

considering that the distance was six hundred miles. Even in Holland

and Norway there are traces of this great shower of dust from the

Icelandic volcano.

During the fearful eruption of Tomboro, a volcano in the island of

Sumbawa, in the Eastern Archipelago, in 1815, the abundance of ashes

and dust ejected caused darkness at midday at Java, three hundred

miles away, and even there the ground was covered to a depth of

several inches. In Sumbawa itself the part of the island joining

the mountain was entirely desolated, and all the houses destroyed,

together with twelve thousand inhabitants. Trees and herbage were

overwhelmed with pumice and volcanic dust. The floating pumice on the

sea around formed a layer two feet, six inches thick, through which

vessels forced their way with difficulty. From such facts as these

it is clear that if in past ages volcanoes have been so powerfully

active as they are now, we should expect to find lava-flows, dykes,

and great deposits of volcanic ash deposited in water among the

stratified rocks; and such is the case. Many large masses of rock

familiar to the geologist, and often forming parts of existing

mountains, are to be accounted for either as great lava-flows, or

dykes that have forced their way in among the strata, or as extensive

deposits of volcanic ash.

But perhaps the reader would like to know what the inside of a

volcanic crater is like during an eruption. Let us, then, take a peep

into that fearful crater of Kilauea, in the Sandwich Islands. For

this purpose we cannot do better than follow Miss Bird's admirable

description of her adventurous expedition to this crater:--

"The abyss, which really is at a height of four thousand feet,

on the flank of Mauna Loa, has the appearance of a pit on

a rolling plain. But such a pit! It is quite nine miles in

circumference, and at its lowest area--which not long ago fell

about three hundred feet, just as ice on a pond falls when

the water below is withdrawn--covers six square miles. The

depth of the crater varies from eight hundred to one thousand

feet, according as the molten sea below is at flood or ebb.

Signs of volcanic activity are present more or less throughout

its whole depth, and for some distance round its margin, in

the form of steam-cracks, jets of sulphurous vapour, blowing

cones, accumulating deposits of acicular crystals of sulphur,

etc., and the pit itself is constantly rent and shaken by

earthquakes. Grand eruptions occurred with circumstances

of indescribable terror and dignity; but Kilauea does not

limit its activity to these outbursts, but has exhibited its

marvellous phenomena through all known time in a lake or lakes

on the southern part of the crater three miles from this side.

"This lake--the _Hale-mau-mau_, or 'House of Everlasting Fire,'

of the Hawaiian mythology, the abode of the dreaded goddess

Pele--is approachable with safety, except during an eruption.

The spectacle, however, varies almost daily; and at times the

level of the lava in the pit within a pit is so low, and the

suffocating gases are evolved in such enormous quantities, that

travellers are unable to see anything. There had been no news

from it for a week; and as nothing was to be seen but a very

faint bluish vapour hanging round its margin, the prospect was

not encouraging.... After more than an hour of very difficult

climbing, we reached the lowest level of the crater, pretty

nearly a mile across, presenting from above the appearance

of a sea at rest; but on crossing it, we found it to be an

expanse of waves and convolutions of ashy-coloured lava, with

huge cracks filled up with black iridescent rolls of lava only

a few weeks old. Parts of it are very rough and ridgy, jammed

together like field-ice, or compacted by rolls of lava, which

may have swelled up from beneath; but the largest part of the

area presents the appearance of huge coiled hawsers, the ropy

formation of the lava rendering the illusion almost perfect.

These are riven by deep cracks, which emit hot sulphurous

vapours....

"As we ascended, the flow became hotter under our feet, as well

as more porous and glistening. It was so hot that a shower of

rain hissed as it fell upon it. The crust became increasingly

insecure, and necessitated our walking in single file with the

guide in front, to test the security of the footing. I fell

through several times, and always into holes full of sulphurous

steam so malignantly acid that my strong dogskin gloves were

burned through as I raised myself on my hands.

"We had followed the lava-flow for thirty miles up to the

crater's brink, and now we had toiled over recent lava for

three hours, and by all calculation were close to the pit; yet

there was no smoke or sign of fire, and I felt sure that the

volcano had died out for once for our special disappointment....

"Suddenly, just above, and in front of us, gory drops were

tossed in the air, and springing forwards we stood on the brink

of _Hale-mau-mau_, which was about thirty-five feet below

us. I think we all screamed. I know we all wept; but we were

speechless, for a new glory and terror had been added to the

earth. It is the most unutterable of wonderful things. The

words of common speech are quite useless. It is unimaginable,

indescribable; a sight to remember for ever; a sight which

at once took possession of every faculty of sense and soul,

removing one altogether out of the range of ordinary life.

Here was the real 'bottomless pit,' 'the fire which is not

quenched,' 'the place of Hell,' 'the lake which burneth with

fire and brimstone,' 'the everlasting burnings,' 'the fiery

sea whose waves are never weary.'[26] There were groanings,

rumblings, and detonations, rushings, hissings, splashings,

and the crashing sound of breakers on the coast; but it was

the surging of fiery waves upon a fiery shore. But what can

I write? Such words as jets, fountains, waves, spray, convey

some idea of order and regularity, but here there was none.

The inner lake, while we stood there, formed a sort of crater

within itself; the whole lava sea rose about three feet; a

blowing cone about eight feet high was formed; it was never the

same two minutes together. And what we saw had no existence

a month ago, and probably will be changed in every essential

feature a month hence.... The prominent object was fire in

motion; but the surface of the double lake was continually

skimming over for a second or two with a cooled crust of a

lustrous grey-white, like frosted silver, broken by jagged

cracks of a bright rose-colour. The movement was nearly always

from the sides to the centre; but the movement of the centre

itself appeared independent, and always took a southerly

direction. Before each outburst of agitation there was much

hissing and throbbing, internal roaring, as of imprisoned

gases. Now it seemed furious, demoniacal, as if no power on

earth could bind it, then playful and sportive, then for a

second languid, but only because it was accumulating fresh

force.... Sometimes the whole lake ... took the form of mighty

waves, and surging heavily against the partial barrier with

a sound like the Pacific surf, lashed, tore, covered it, and

threw itself over it in clots of living fire. It was all

confusion, commotion, forces, terror, glory, majesty, mystery,

and even beauty. And the colour, 'eye hath not seen' it! Molten

metal hath not that crimson gleam, nor blood that living

light."[27]

[26] Perhaps these Scripture phrases were suggested long before

the Bible was written, by the sight of some crater in active

eruption.

[27] The Hawaiian Archipelago.

Continued observation of volcanoes, together with evidence derived

from history, teaches that there are different stages of volcanic

action. There are three pretty well-marked phases. First, the state

of permanent eruption; this is not a dangerous state, because the

steam keeps escaping all the time: the safety-valve is at work, and

all goes smoothly. The second state is one of moderate activity, with

more or less violent eruptions at brief intervals; this is rather

dangerous, because at times the safety-valve does not work.

And thirdly, we have paroxysms of intense energy, alternating with

long periods of repose sometimes lasting for centuries. These

eruptions are extremely violent, and cause widespread destruction;

the safety-valve has got jammed, and so the boiler bursts.

No volcano has been so carefully watched for a long time as Vesuvius.

Its history illustrates the phases we have just mentioned. The first

recorded eruption is that of A. D. 79, a very severe one of the

violent type, by which Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabiæ were buried.

We have an interesting account by the younger Pliny. Before this

great eruption took place, Vesuvius had been in a state of repose

for eight hundred years, and if we may judge from the Greek and Roman

writings, was not even suspected of being a volcano. Then followed

an interval of rest until the reign of Severus, the second eruption

taking place in the year 203. In the year 472, says Procopius, all

Europe was covered more or less with volcanic ashes. Other eruptions

followed at intervals, but there was complete repose for two

centuries; that is, until the year 1306. In 1500 it was again active,

then quiet again for one hundred and thirty years. In 1631 there took

place another terrific outburst. After this many eruptions followed,

and they have been frequent ever since. Vesuvius is therefore now in

the second stage of moderate activity.

But geologists can take a wider view than this. They can sum up the

history of a volcanic region of the earth; and the result is somewhat

as follows: Volcanoes, like living creatures, go through different

periods or phases, corresponding roughly to youth, middle age, old

age, and finally decay. The invasion of any particular area of the

earth's surface by the volcanic forces is heralded by underground

shocks, or earthquakes. A little later on cracks are formed, as

indicated by the rise of saline and hot springs, and the issuing of

carbonic acid and other gases at the surface of the earth. As the

underground activity becomes greater, the temperature of the springs

and emitted gases increases; and at last a visible rent is formed,

exposing highly heated and glowing rock below. From the fissure thus

formed, the gas and vapours imprisoned in the molten rocks escape

with such violence as to disperse the latter in the form of pumice

and volcanic ash, or to cause them to pour out as lava-streams.

The action generally becomes confined to one or more points along the

line of action (which is a line of fissures and cracks). In this way

a chain of volcanoes is formed, which may become the seat of volcanic

action for a long time.

When the volcanic energies have become somewhat exhausted, so that

they cannot raise up the lava and expel it from the volcanic crater,

nor rend the sides of the volcano and cause minor cones to grow up

on their flanks, small cones may be formed at a lower level in the

plains around the great central chain. These likewise are fed from

fissures.

Later on, as the heated rock below cools down, the fissures are

sealed up by lava that has become solid; and then the volcanoes

fall, as it were, into the "sere and yellow leaf," and remain in a

peaceful, quiet state befitting their old age.

After this they begin to suffer from long exposure to the atmospheric

influences of decay, and rain and rivers wash them away more or less

completely.

But still the presence of heated rocky matter at no great depth

below is proved by the outbursts of gases and vapours, the forming

of geysers and ordinary hot springs. Gradually, however, even these

signs of heat below disappear; and the cycle of volcanic phases is at

an end. Such a series of changes may require millions of years; but

by the study of volcanoes in every stage of their growth and decline

it is possible thus to sketch out an outline of their history.

It must be confessed that in the present state of scientific

knowledge no full and complete explanation of volcanic action is

possible. Geologists and others are as yet but feeling their way

cautiously towards the light which, perhaps before long, will

illumine the dark recesses of this mysterious subject. Many theories

and ideas have been put forward, but in the opinion of the writer the

most promising explanation is one that may be briefly expressed as

follows:

There are below the crust of the earth large masses of highly

heated rock that are _kept solid_ by the enormous pressure of the

overlying rocks, or otherwise they would melt,--for it is a known

fact that pressure tends to prevent the melting of a solid body. But

when earth-movements taking place within the earth's crust--such

as the upheaving of mountain-chains--take off some of the weight,

the balance between internal heat and the pressure from above is no

longer maintained; and so these highly heated rocks run off into

the liquid state, and finding their way to the surface through the

fissures mentioned above, give rise to volcanic action. There is

much to be said in favour of this view. It rightly connects volcanic

action with movements of upheaval, with mountain-chains and lines of

weakness in the earth's crust.

There is very good reason to believe that the earth was once in a

highly heated state, and has been slowly cooling down for ages. The

increase of temperature observed in penetrating mines tells us that

it still retains below the surface some of its old heat. We need not

therefore be surprised at the existence of heated masses of rock down

below, or seek, as some have done, an entirely different source for

the origin of volcanic heat than that which remains from the earth's

once molten condition. It would take too long to state the reasons

on which this idea of the former state of our planet is based, and

moreover, it would bring us into the region of astronomy, with which

we are not concerned at present.

In various parts of Great Britain and Ireland we meet with old

volcanic rocks,--lavas, intrusive dykes, and sheets of basalt, etc.,

together with vast deposits of volcanic ash, which, sinking into

the old neighbouring seas, became stratified, or arranged in layers

like the ordinary sedimentary rocks. In some cases we see embedded

in these layers the very "bombs" that were thrown out by the old

volcanoes (see page 253). And besides these purely volcanic rocks, we

often meet in these areas with great bosses of granite, which must

have been in some way connected with the old volcanoes, and probably

were in many cases the source from which much of the volcanic rock

was derived. But more than this, in a few instances we have the site

of the old volcano itself marked out by a kind of pipe, or "neck,"

now filled with some of its volcanic débris in the shape of coarse,

rounded fragments (see page 277).

During a very ancient period, known to geologists as the Silurian

Period, great lava-flows took place from volcanoes situated where

North and South Wales and the Lake District now are; and by their

eruptions a vast amount of volcanic ash was made, which fell into

the sea and slowly sank to the bottom, so that the shell-fish living

there were buried in the strata thus formed, and may now be seen in a

fossilised condition.

[Illustration: Fig. 1. THE RANGES OF THE GREAT BASIN, WESTERN

STATES OF NORTH AMERICA, SHOWING A SERIES OF GREAT FRACTURES AND

TILTED MASSES OF ROCK.]

[Illustration: Fig. 2. SECTION THROUGH SNOWDON.]

Thus Snowdon, Cader Idris, the Arans, Arenig Mountain, and others,

are very largely made up of these ancient volcanic materials. The

writer has picked up specimens of fossil shell-fish near the summit

of Snowdon from a bed of fine volcanic ash that forms the summit.

Fig. 2 represents a section through Snowdon, from which it will be

seen that we have first a few sedimentary strata, _S_, then a great

lava-flow, _L_; and that volcanic ashes accumulated on the top of

this, of which _A A_ are patches still left. _B_ is an intrusive dyke

of a basaltic rock that forced its way through afterwards. Again, in

the Lake District there is a well-known volcanic series of stratified

rocks of the same age, consisting mostly of lavas and ashes, the

total thickness of which is about twelve thousand feet (known as the

"Green Slates and Porphyries"), so that a large part of some of the

mountains there have also been built up by volcanic action; but no

traces of the old volcanoes remain.

Going farther north we find abundant proof that volcanic action on

a prodigious scale took place in Scotland during the very ancient

period of the Old Red Sandstone, with which the name of Hugh Miller

will always be associated. In Central Scotland we see lava-flows and

strata formed of volcanic ash, with a thickness of more than six

thousand feet, fragments of which, having escaped the destructive

agents of denudation, now form important chains of hills, such

as the Pentland, Ochil, and Sidlaw ranges. Nor was the volcanic

action confined to this region. In the district of the Cheviot

Hills similar volcanic rocks are to be seen. But here again the old

volcanoes have long since been swept away, leaving us only portions

of their outpourings buried in the hills.

There can be no doubt that the present area of the Grampian Hills was

once the site of a considerable number of volcanoes, only at a much

higher level than their present surface, elevated though that is to

the region of the clouds; but in this case subsequent denudation has

been so enormous that the old mountain surface has been planed away

until all we can now see is a series of separate patches of granite,

that were once in a fused and highly heated state far below the

surface, and formed part of the subterranean reservoirs from which

the volcanoes derived their great supplies of lava and steam. It is

indeed difficult to imagine the enormous amount of denudation which

has taken place in the Highlands of Scotland, and to realise that the

magnificent range of the Cairngorms, for instance, has been for ages

worn down until now they are but a remnant of what they once were.

In this region we see the once boiling and seething masses of

rock which fed the old volcanoes, now no longer endowed with

life-like power by the force of steam, but lying in deathlike cold

and stiffness, with their beautiful crystals of mica and felspar

sparkling in the sun. The volcanic fires have died out; but the

traces of their work are unmistakable, among which we must not forget

to reckon the beautiful minerals made by the action of heated water

upon the surrounding rocks.

The beautiful cairngorm stones are still sometimes found on the

mountain from which they take their name, and in all volcanic regions

minerals are plentiful.

The well-known hill called Arthur's Seat, close to Edinburgh, marks

the site of an old volcano. The "neck," or central opening, may be

seen at the top of the hill, but choked up with volcanic rocks and

débris. The crater has long since disappeared, but Salisbury Craigs

and St. Leonard's Craigs are formed of a great sheet of basalt that

intruded itself among the stratified rocks that had been formed

there, and so belong really to a great intrusive dyke. In the Castle

Rock we see the same basalt again.

During a much later age, known as the Miocene Period (see chap. x.,

p. 324), enormous outpourings of lava took place in Western Europe,

covering hundreds of square miles. Of these the most important is

that which occupies a large part of the northeast of Ireland, and

extends in patches through the Inner Hebrides and the Faröe Islands

into Iceland. These eruptive rocks, unlike those above referred to,

must have poured out at the surface, and have taken the form of

successive sheets, such as we now see in the terraced plateaux of

Skye, Eigg, Canna, Muck, Mull, and Morven. These, then, are patches

of what once formed a great plain of basalt. During later times

this volcanic platform has been so greatly cut up by the agents of

denudation that it has been reduced to mere scattered fragments;

thousands of feet of basalt have been worn away from it; deep and

wide valleys have been carved out of it; and in many cases it has

been almost entirely stripped off from the wide areas it once

covered. Where, as in the Isle of Eigg, the lava has been piled up

in successive sheets, with some layers of volcanic ash between, the

latter has been worn away rather faster than the hard layers of

basalt, and each lava-flow is clearly marked by a terrace. These

volcanic eruptions have thus had a great influence in moulding the

scenery of this region. In Ireland the old basalts are well seen at

the Giant's Causeway, and on the Scottish coast we see them again at

the well-known Fingal's cave at Staffa. This island, like the others,

is just a patch of the old lava-streams.

Its curious six-sided columns illustrate a fact with regard to the

subsequent cooling of lava-flows. Some internal forces, analogous to

that which regulates the shapes of crystals, have caused it to crack

along three sets of lines, so placed with regard to each other as to

produce six-sided columns.

In Ireland the basalts attain a thickness of nine hundred feet; in

Mull they are about three thousand feet thick. It has been clearly

proved that Mull is the site of one of the old volcanoes of this

period, but very few others have as yet been detected. Perhaps the

eruptions took place mainly from large fissures, instead of from

volcanic cones, for it is known that the ground below the lava-sheets

has been rent by earthquakes into innumerable fissures, into which

the basalt was injected from below.

In this way a vast number of "dykes" were formed. These have been

traced by hundreds eastwards from this region across Scotland,

and even the north of England. In this case the molten rock was

struggling to get through the overlying rocks and escape at the

surface; but apparently it did not succeed in so doing, for we do not

find lava-flows to the east and south. These basalt dykes are found

as far south as Yorkshire, and can be traced over an area of one

hundred thousand square miles.

It is thus evident that in the Miocene Period a great and extensive

mass of molten basalt was underlying a large part of the British

Isles, and probably the weight of the thick rocks overlying it was

sufficient to prevent its escape to the surface. If it had succeeded

in so escaping and overflowing, how different the scenery of much of

Scotland and Northern England might have been!

[Illustration: COLUMNAR BASALT AT CLAMSHELL CAVE, STAFFA. FROM A

PHOTOGRAPH BY J. VALENTINE.]

The Story of the Hills: A Book About Mountains for General Readers. · 第 5 / 7 章