my very long journey. I will not tire you with the account of the
many fatigues I have suffered. You would rather be informed of the
strange things that are to be seen here; and a letter out of Turkey,
that has nothing extraordinary in it, would be as great a
disappointment, as my visitors will receive at London, if I return
thither without any rarities to shew them.--What shall I tell you
of?--You never saw camels in your life; and perhaps the description
of them will appear new to you; I can assure you the first sight of
them was so to me; and though I have seen hundreds of pictures of
those animals, I never saw any that was resembling enough, to give a
true idea of them. I am going to make a bold observation, and
possibly a false one, because nobody has ever made it before me; but
I do take them to be of the stag kind; their legs, bodies, and necks,
are exactly shaped like them, and their colour very near the same.
'Tis true they are much larger, being a great deal higher than a
horse; and so swift, that, after the defeat of Peterwaradin, they far
outran the swiftest horses, and brought the first news of the loss of
the battle to Belgrade. They are never thoroughly tamed; the drivers
take care to tie them one to another, with strong ropes, fifty in a
string, led by an ass, on which the driver rides. I have seen three
hundred in one caravan. They carry the third part more than any
horse; but 'tis a particular art to load them, because of the bunch
on their backs. They seem to be very ugly creatures, their heads
being ill-formed and disproportioned (sic) to their bodies. They
carry all the burdens; and the beasts destined to the plough, are
buffaloes, an animal you are also unacquainted with. They are larger
and more clumsy than an ox; they have short thick black horns close
to their heads, Which grow turning backwards. They say this horn
looks very beautiful when 'tis well polished. They are all black,
with very short hair on their hides, and have extremely little white
eyes, that make them look like devils. The country people dye their
tails, and the hair of their forehead, red, by way of ornament.
Horses are not put here to any laborious work, nor are they at all
fit for it. They are beautiful and full of spirit, but generally
little, and not strong, as the breed of colder countries; very
gentle, however, with all their vivacity, and also swift and
surefooted. I have a little white favourite, that I would not part
with on any terms; he prances under me with so much fire, you would
think that I had a great deal of courage to dare to mount him; yet
I'll assure you, I never rid a horse so much at my command in my
life. My side-saddle is the first that was ever seen in this part of
the world, and is gazed at with as much wonder as the ship of
Columbus in the first discovery of America. Here are some little
birds, held in a sort of religious reverence, and, for that reason,
multiply prodigiously: turtles, on the account of their innocence;
and storks, because they are supposed to make every winter the
pilgrimage to Mecca. To say truth, they are the happiest subjects
under the Turkish government, and are so sensible of their
privileges, that they walk the streets without fear, and generally
build in the low parts of houses. Happy are those whose houses are
so distinguished, as the vulgar Turks are perfectly persuaded that
they will not be, that year, attacked either by fire or pestilence.
I have the happiness of one of their sacred nests under my
chamber-window.
NOW I am talking of my chamber, I remember the description of the
houses here will be as new to you, as any of the birds or beasts. I
suppose you have read, in most of our accounts of Turkey, that their
houses are the most miserable pieces of building in the world. I can
speak very learnedly on that subject, having been in so many of them;
and, I assure you, 'tis no such thing. We are now lodged in a palace
belonging to the grand signior. I really think the manner of
building here very agreeable, and proper for the country. 'Tis true,
they are not at all solicitous to beautify the outsides of their
houses, and they are generally built of wood; which, I own, is the
cause of many inconveniencies; but this is not to be charged on the
ill taste of the people, but on the oppression of the government.
Every house, at the death of its master, is at the grand signior's
disposal; and therefore, no man cares to make a great expence, which
he is not sure his family will be the better for. All their design
is to build a house commodious, and that will last their lives; and
they are very indifferent if it falls down the year after. Every
house, great and small, is divided into two distinct parts, which
only join together by a narrow passage. The first house has a large
court before it, and open galleries all round it, which is to me a
thing very agreeable. This gallery leads to all the chambers, which
are commonly large, and with two rows of windows, the first being of
painted glass; they seldom build above two stories, each of which has
galleries. The stairs are broad, and not often above thirty steps.
This is the house belonging to the lord, and the adjoining one is
called the _haram_, that is, the ladies apartment, (for the name of
_seraglio_ is peculiar to the grand signior;) it has also a gallery
running round it towards the garden, to which all the windows are
turned, and the same number of chambers as the other, but more gay
and splendid, both in painting and furniture. The second row of
windows is very low, with grates like those of convents; the rooms
are all spread with Persian carpets, and raised at one end of them
(my chambers are raised at both ends) about two feet. This is the
sofa, which is laid with a richer sort of carpet, and all round it a
sort of couch, raised half a foot, covered with rich silk, according
to the fancy or magnificence of the owner. Mine is of scarlet cloth,
with a gold fringe; round about this are placed, standing against the
wall, two rows of cushions, the first very large, and the next,
little ones; and here the Turks display their greatest magnificence.
They are generally brocade, or embroidery of gold wire upon white
sattin.--Nothing can look more gay and splendid. These seats are
also so convenient and easy, that I believe I shall never endure
chairs as long as I live.--The rooms are low, which I think no fault,
and the ceiling is always of wood, generally inlaid or painted with
flowers. They open in many places, with folding doors, and serve for
cabinets, I think, more conveniently than ours. Between the windows
are little arches to set pots of perfume, or baskets of flowers. But
what pleases me best, is the fashion of having marble fountains in
the lower part of the room, which throw up several spouts of water,
giving, at the same time, an agreeable coolness, and a pleasant
dashing sound, falling from one basin to another. Some of these are
very magnificent. Each house has a bagnio, which consists generally
in two or three little rooms, leaded on the top, paved with marble,
with basins, cocks of water, and all conveniencies for either hot or
cold baths.
YOU will perhaps be surprised at an account so different from what
you have been entertained with by the common voyage-writers, who are
very fond of speaking of what they don't know. It must be under a
very particular character, or on some extraordinary occasion, that a
Christian is admitted into the house of a man of quality; and their
_harams_ are always forbidden ground. Thus they can only speak of
the outside, which makes no great appearance; and the womens
apartments are always built backward, removed from sight, and have no
other prospect than the gardens, which are inclosed with very high
walls. There are none of our parterres in them; but they are planted
with high trees, which give an agreeable shade, and, to my fancy, a
pleasing view. In the midst of the garden is the _chiosk_, that is,
a large room, commonly beautified with a fine fountain in the midst
of it. It is raised nine or ten steps, and inclosed with gilded
lattices, round which, vines, jessamines, and honey-suckles, make a
sort of green wall. Large trees are planted round this place, which
is the scene of their greatest pleasures, and where the ladies spend
most of their hours, employed by their music or embroidery.--In the
public gardens, there are public _chiosks_ where people go, that are
not so well accommodated at home, and drink their coffee, sherbet,
&c.--Neither are they ignorant of a more durable manner of building:
their mosques are all of free-stone, and the public _hanns_, or inns,
extremely magnificent, many of them taking up a large square, built
round with shops under stone arches, where poor artificers are lodged
_gratis_. They have always a mosque joining to them, and the body of
the _hann_ is a most noble hall, capable of holding three or four
hundred persons, the court extremely spacious, and cloisters round
it, that give it the air of our colleges. I own, I think it a more
reasonable piece of charity than the founding of convents.--I think
I have now told you a great deal for once. If you don't like my
choice of subjects, tell me what you would have me write Upon; there
is nobody more desirous to entertain you, than, dear Mrs T----,
Your's, &c. &c.
LET. XXXIII.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Adrianopolis, April_ 18. O. S.
I WROTE to you, dear sister, and to all my other English
correspondents, by the last ship, and only Heaven can tell, when I
shall have another opportunity of sending to you; but I cannot
forbear to write again, though perhaps my letter may ly upon my hands
this two months. To confess the truth, my head is so full of my
entertainment yesterday, that 'tis absolutely necessary, for my own
repose, to give it some vent. Without farther preface, I will then
begin my story.
I WAS invited to dine with the grand vizier's lady, and it was with a
great deal of pleasure I prepared myself for an entertainment, which
was never before given to any Christian. I thought I should very
little satisfy her curiosity, (which I did not doubt was a
considerable motive to the invitation) by going in a dress she was
used to see, and therefore dressed myself in the court habit of
Vienna, which is much more magnificent than ours. However, I chose
to go _incognito_, to avoid any disputes about ceremony, and went in
a Turkish coach, only attended by my woman, that held up my train,
and the Greek lady, who was my interpretess. I was met at the court
door by her black eunuch, who helped me out of the coach with great
respect, and conducted me through several rooms, where her
she-slaves, finely dressed, were ranged on each side. In the
innermost, I found the lady sitting on her sofa, in a sable vest.
She advanced to meet me, and presented me half a dozen of her
friends, with great civility. She seemed a very good woman, near
fifty years old. I was surprised to observe so little magnificence
in her house, the furniture being all very moderate; and, except the
habits and number of her slaves, nothing about her appeared
expensive. She guessed at my thoughts, and told me she was no longer
of an age to spend either her time or money in superfluities; that
her whole expence was in charity, and her whole employment praying to
God. There was no affectation in this speech; both she and her
husband are entirely given up to devotion. He never looks upon any
other woman; and, what is much more extraordinary, touches
no bribes, notwithstanding the example of all his predecessors. He
is so scrupulous on this point, he would not accept Mr W----'s
present, till he had been assured over and over, that it was a
settled perquisite Of his place, at the entrance of every ambassador.
She entertained me with all kind of civility, till dinner came in,
which was served, one dish at a time, to a vast number, all finely
dressed after their manner, which I don't think so bad as you have
perhaps heard it represented. I am a very good judge of their
eating, having lived three weeks in the house of an _effendi_ at
Belgrade, who gave us very magnificent dinners, dressed by his own
cooks. The first week they pleased me extremely; but, I own, I then
began to grow weary of their table, and desired our own cook might
add a dish or two after our manner. But I attribute this to custom,
and am very much inclined to believe, that an Indian, who had never
tasted of either, would prefer their cookery to ours. Their sauces
are very high, all the roast very much done. They use a great deal
of very rich spice. The soup is served for the last dish; and they
have, at least, as great a variety of ragouts as we have. I was very
sorry I could not eat of as many as the good lady would have had me,
who was very earnest in serving me of every thing. The treat
concluded with coffee and perfumes, which is a high mark of respect;
two slaves kneeling _censed_ my hair, clothes, and handkerchief.
After this ceremony, she commanded her slaves to play and dance,
which they did with their guitars in their hands, and she excused to
me their want of skill, saying she took no care to accomplish them in
that art.
I RETURNED her thanks, and, soon after, took my leave. I was
conducted back in the same manner I entered, and would have gone
straight to my own house; but the Greek lady with me, earnestly
solicited me to visit the _kahya's_ lady, saying, he was the second
officer in the empire, and ought indeed to be looked upon as the
first, the grand vizier having only the name, while he exercised the
authority. I had found so little diversion in the vizier's _haram_,
that I had no mind to go into another. But her importunity prevailed
with me, and I am extremely glad I was so complaisant. All things
here were with quite another air than at the grand vizier's; and the
very house confessed the difference between an old devotee, and a
young beauty. It was nicely clean and magnificent. I was met at the
door by two black eunuchs, who led me through a long gallery, between
two ranks of beautiful young girls, with their hair finely plaited,
almost hanging to their feet, all dressed in fine light damasks,
brocaded with silver. I was sorry that decency did not permit me to
stop to consider them nearer. But that thought was lost upon my
entrance into a large room, or rather pavilion, built round with
gilded sashes, which were most of them thrown up, and the trees
planted near them gave an agreeable shade, which hindered the sun
from being troublesome. The jessamines and honey-suckles that
twisted round their trunks, shed a soft perfume, increased by a white
marble fountain playing sweet water in the lower part of the room,
which fell into three or four basins, with a pleasing sound. The
roof was painted with all sorts of flowers, falling out of gilded
baskets, that seemed tumbling down. On a sofa, raised three steps,
and covered with fine Persian carpets, sat the _kahya_'s lady,
leaning on cushions of white sattin, embroidered; and at her feet sat
two young girls about twelve years old, lovely as angels, dressed
perfectly rich, and almost covered with jewels. But they were hardly
seen near the fair _Fatima_, (for that is her name) so much her
beauty effaced every thing I have seen, nay, all that has been called
lovely either in England or Germany. I must own, that I never saw
any thing so gloriously beautiful, nor can I recollect a face that
would have been taken notice of near hers. She stood up to receive
me, saluting me after their fashion, putting her hand to her heart
with a sweetness full of majesty, that no court breeding could ever
give. She ordered cushions to be given me, and took care to place me
in the corner, which is the place of honour. I confess, though the
Greek lady had before given me a great opinion of her beauty, I was
so struck with admiration, that I could not, for some time, speak to
her, being wholly taken up in gazing. That surprising harmony of
features! that charming result of the whole! that exact proportion of
body! that lovely bloom of complexion unsullied by art! the
unutterable enchantment of her smile!--But her eyes!--large and
black, with all the soft languishment of the blue! every turn of her
face discovering some new grace.
AFTER my first surprise was over, I endeavoured, by nicely examining
her face, to find out some imperfection, without any fruit of my
search, but my being clearly convinced of the error of that vulgar
notion, that a face exactly proportioned, and perfectly beautiful,
would not be agreeable; nature having done for her, with more
success, what Appelles is said to have essayed, by a collection of
the most exact features, to form a perfect face. Add to all this, a
behaviour so full of grace and sweetness, such easy motions, with an
air so majestic, yet free from stiffness or affectation, that I am
persuaded, could she be suddenly transported upon the most polite
throne of Europe, no body would think her other than born and bred to
be a queen, though educated in a country we call barbarous. To say
all in a word, our most celebrated English beauties would vanish near
her.
SHE was dressed in a _caftan_ of gold brocade, flowered with silver,
very well fitted to her shape, and shewing to admiration the beauty
of her bosom, only shaded by the thin gauze of her shift. Her
drawers were pale pink, her waistcoat green and silver, her slippers
white sattin, finely embroidered: her lovely arms adorned with
bracelets of diamonds, and her broad girdle set round with diamonds;
upon her head a rich Turkish handkerchief of pink and silver, her own
fine black hair hanging a great length, in various tresses, and on
one side of her head some bodkins of jewels. I am afraid you will
accuse me of extravagance in this description. I think I have read
somewhere, that women always speak in rapture when they speak of
beauty, and I cannot imagine why they should not be allowed to do so.
I rather think it a virtue to be able to admire without any mixture
of desire or envy. The gravest writers have spoken with great
warmth, of some celebrated pictures and statues. The workmanship of
Heaven, certainly excels all our weak imitations, and, I think, has a
much better claim to our praise. For my part, I am not ashamed to
own, I took more pleasure in looking on the beauteous Fatima, than
the finest piece of sculpture could have given me. She told me, the
two girls at her feet were her daughters, though she appeared too
young to be their mother. Her fair maids were ranged below the sofa,
to the number of twenty, and put me in mind of the pictures of the
ancient nymphs. I did not think all nature could have furnished such
a scene of beauty. She made them a sign to play and dance. Four of
them immediately began to play some soft airs on instruments, between
a lute and a guitar, which they accompanied with their voices, while
the others danced by turns. This dance was very different from what
I had seen before. Nothing could be more artful, or more proper to
raise _certain ideas_. The tunes so soft!--the motions so
languishing!--accompanied with pauses and dying eyes! half-falling
back, and then recovering themselves in so artful a manner, that I am
very positive, the coldest and most rigid pride upon earth, could not
have looked upon them without thinking of _something not to be spoke
of_.--I suppose you may have read that the Turks have no music, but
what is shocking to the ears; but this account is from those who
never heard any but what is played in the streets, and is just as
reasonable, as if a foreigner should take his ideas of English music,
from the _bladder_ and _string_, or the _marrow-bones_ and _cleavers_.
I can assure you that the music is extremely pathetic; 'tis true, I
am inclined to prefer the Italian, but perhaps I am partial. I am
acquainted with a Greek lady who sings better than Mrs Robinson, and
is very well skilled in both, who gives the preference to the
Turkish. 'Tis certain they have very fine natural voices; these were
very agreeable. When the dance was over, four fair slaves came into
the room, with silver censers in their hands, and perfumed the air
with amber, aloes-wood, and other scents. After this, they served me
coffee upon their knees, in the finest japan china, with _soucoups_
of silver, gilt. The lovely Fatima entertained me, all this while,
in the most polite agreeable manner, calling me often _uzelle
sultanam_, or the beautiful sultana; and desiring my friendship with
the best grace in the world, lamenting that she could not entertain
me in my own language.
WHEN I took my leave, two maids brought in a fine silver basket of
embroidered handkerchiefs; she begged I would wear the richest for
her sake, and gave the others to my woman and interpretess.--I
retired through the same ceremonies as before, and could not help
thinking, I had been some time in Mahomet's paradise; so much was I
charmed with what I had seen. I know not how the relation of it
appears to you. I wish it may give you part of my pleasure; for I
would have my dear sister share in all the diversions of, Yours,&c.
LET. XXXIV.
TO THE ABBOT OF ----.
_Adrianople, May_ 17. O. S.