_That if it were the fashion to go naked, the face would be hardly
observed_. I perceived, that the ladies of the most delicate skins
and finest shapes had the greatest share of my admiration, though
their faces were sometimes less beautiful than those of their
companions. To tell you the truth, I had wickedness enough, to wish
secretly, that Mr Gervais could have been there invisible. I fancy
it would have very much improved his art, to see so many fine women
naked, in different postures, some in conversation, some working,
others drinking coffee or sherbet, and many negligently lying on
their cushions, while their slaves (generally pretty girls of
seventeen or eighteen) were employed in braiding their hair in
several pretty fancies. In short, 'tis the women's coffee-house,
where all the news of the town is told, scandal invented, &c.--They
generally take this diversion once a-week (sic), and stay there at
least four or five hours, without getting cold by immediate coming
out of the hot bath into the cold room, which was very surprising to
me. The lady, that seemed the most considerable among them,
entreated me to sit by her, and would fain have undressed me for the
bath. I excused myself with some difficulty. They being however all
so earnest in persuading me, I was at last forced to open my shirt,
and shew them my stays; which satisfied them very well; for, I saw,
they believed I was locked up in that machine, and that it was not in
my own power to open it, which contrivance they attributed to my
husband,--I was charmed with their civility and beauty, and should
have been very glad to pass more time with them; but Mr
W---- resolving to pursue his journey next morning early, I was in
haste to see the ruins of Justinian's church, which did not afford me
so agreeable a prospect as I had left, being little more than a heap
Of stones.
ADIEU, madam, I am sure I have now entertained you with an account of
such a sight as you never saw in your life, and what no book of
travels could inform you of, as 'tis no less than death for a man to
be found in one of these places.
LET. XXVII.
TO THE ABBOT ----.
_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717.
You see I am very exact in keeping the promise you engaged me to
make. I know not, however, whether your curiosity will be satisfied
with the accounts I shall give you, though I can assure you, the
desire I have to oblige you to the utmost of my power, has made me
very diligent in my enquiries and observations. 'Tis certain we have
but very imperfect accounts of the manners and religion of these
people; this part of the world being seldom visited, but by
merchants, who mind little but their own affairs; or travellers, who
make too short a stay, to be able to report any thing exactly of
their own knowledge. The Turks are too proud to converse familiarly
with merchants, who can only pick up some confused informations,
which are generally false; and can give no better account of the ways
here, than a French refugee, lodging in a garret in Greek-street,
could write of the court of England. The journey we have made from
Belgrade hither, cannot possibly be passed by any out of a public
character. The desert woods of Servia, are the common refuge of
thieves, who rob fifty in a company, so that we had need of all our
guards to secure us; and the villages are so poor, that only force
could extort from them necessary provisions. Indeed the janizaries
had no mercy on their poverty, killing all the poultry and sheep they
could find, without asking to whom they belonged; while the wretched
owners durst not put in their claim, for fear of being beaten. Lambs
just fallen, geese and turkies (sic) big with egg, all massacred
without distinction! I fancied I heard the complaints of Melibeus
for the hope of his flock. When the bassas travel, 'tis yet worse.
These oppressors are not content with eating all that is to be eaten
belonging to the peasants; after they have crammed themselves and
their numerous retinue, they have the impudence to exact what they
call _teeth-money_, a contribution for the use of their teeth, worn
with doing them the honour of devouring their meat. This is
literally and exactly true, however extravagant it may seem; and such
is the natural corruption of a military government, their religion
not allowing of this barbarity, any more than ours does.
I HAD the advantage of lodging three weeks at Belgrade, with a
principal effendi, that is to say a scholar. This set of men are
equally capable of preferments in the law or the church, these two
sciences being cast into one, and a lawyer and a priest being the
same word in the Turkish language. They are the only men really
considerable in the empire; all the profitable employments and church
revenues are in their hands. The grand signior, though general heir
to his people, never presumes to touch their lands or money, which
go, in an uninterrupted succession, to their children. 'Tis true,
they lose this privilege, by accepting a place at court, or the title
of Bassa; but there are few examples of such fools among them. You
may easily judge of the power of these men, who have engrossed all
the learning, and almost all the wealth of the empire. 'Tis they
that are the real authors, though the soldiers are the actors of
revolutions. They deposed the late sultan Mustapha; and their power
is so well known, that 'tis the emperor's interest to flatter them.
THIS is a long digression. I was going to tell you, that an intimate
daily conversation with the effendi Achmet-beg, gave me an
opportunity of knowing their religion and morals in a more particular
manner than perhaps any Christian ever did. I explained to him the
difference between the religion of England and Rome; and he Was
pleased to hear there were Christians that did not worship images, or
adore the Virgin Mary. The ridicule of transubstantiation appeared
very strong to him.--Upon comparing our creeds together, I am
convinced that if our friend Dr ---- had free liberty of preaching
here, it would be very easy to persuade the generality to
Christianity, whose notions are very little different from his. Mr
Whiston would make a very good apostle here. I don't doubt but his
zeal will be much fired, if you communicate this account to him; but
tell him, he must first have the gift of tongues, before he can
possibly be of any use.--Mahometism (sic) is divided into as many
sects as Christianity; and the first institution as much neglected
and obscured by interpretations. I cannot here forbear reflecting on
the natural inclination of mankind, to make mysteries and
novelties.--The Zeidi, Kudi, Jabari, &c. put me in mind of the
Catholics, Lutherans, and Calvinists, and are equally zealous against
one another. But the most prevailing opinion, if you search into the
secret of the effendis, is, plain deism. This is indeed kept from
the people, who are amused with a thousand different notions,
according to the different interest of their preachers.--There are
very few amongst them (Achmet-beg denied there were any) so absurd,
as to set up for wit, by declaring they believe no God at all. And
Sir Paul Rycaut is mistaken (as he commonly is) in calling the sect
_muterin_, (i. e. _the secret with us_) atheists, they being deists,
whose impiety consists in making a jest of their prophet. Achmet-beg
did not own to me that he was of this opinion; but made no scruple of
deviating from some part of Mahomet's law, by drinking wine with the
same freedom we did. When I asked him how he came to allow himself
that liberty? He made answer, that all the creatures of God are
good, and designed for the use of man; however, that the prohibition
of wine was a very wise maxim, and meant for the common people, being
the source of all disorders amongst them; but, that the prophet never
designed to confine those that knew how to use it with moderation;
nevertheless, he said, that scandal ought to be avoided, and that he
never drank it in public. This is the general way of thinking
amongst them, and very few forbear drinking wine that are able to
afford it. He assured me, that if I understood Arabic, I should be
very well pleased with reading the alcoran, which is so far from the
nonsense we charge it with, that it is the purest morality, delivered
in the very best language. I have since heard impartial Christians
speak of it in the same manner; and I don't doubt but that all our
translations are from copies got from the Greek priests, who would
not fail to falsify it with the extremity of malice. No body of men
ever were more ignorant, or more corrupt; yet they differ so little
from the Romish church, that, I confess, nothing gives me a greater
abhorrence of the cruelty of your clergy, than the barbarous
persecution of them, whenever they have been their masters, for no
other reason than their not acknowledging the pope. The dissenting
in that one article, has got them the titles of heretics and
schismatics; and, what is worse, the same treatment. I found at
Philippopolis, a sect of Christians that call themselves Paulines.
They shew an old church, where, they say, St Paul preached; and he is
their favourite saint, after the same manner that St Peter is at
Rome; neither do they forget to give him the same preference over the
rest of the apostles.
BUT of all the religions I have seen, that of the Arnounts seems to
me the most particular; they are natives of Arnountlich, the ancient
Macedonia, and still retain the courage and hardiness, though they
have lost the name of Macedonians, being the best militia in the
Turkish empire, and the only check upon the janizaries. They are
foot soldiers; we had a guard of them, relieved in every considerable
town we passed; they are all cloathed and armed at their own expence,
dressed in clean white coarse cloth, carrying guns of a prodigious
length, which they run with upon their shoulders, as if they did not
feel the weight of them, the leader singing a sort of rude tune, not
unpleasant, and the rest making up the chorus. These people living
between Christians and Mahometans, and not being skilled in
controversy, declare, that they are utterly unable to judge which
religion is best; but, to be certain of not entirely rejecting the
truth, they very prudently follow both. They go to the mosques on
Fridays, and to the church on Sunday, saying, for their excuse, that
at the day of judgment they are sure of protection from the true
prophet; but which that is, they are not able to determine in this
world. I believe there is no other race of mankind, who have so
modest an opinion of their own capacity.
THESE are the remarks I have made, on the diversity of religions I
have seen. I don't ask your pardon for the liberty I have taken in
speaking of the Roman. I know you equally condemn the quakery (sic)
of all churches, as much as you revere the sacred truths, in which we
both agree.
YOU will expect I should say something to you of the antiquities of
this country; but there are few remains of ancient Greece. We passed
near the piece of an arch, which is commonly called Trajan's Gate,
from a supposition, that he made it to shut up the passage over the
mountains, between Sophia and Philippopolis. But I rather believe
it the remains of some triumphal arch, (tho' I could not see any
inscription;) for if that passage had been shut up, there are
many others that would serve for the march of an army; and,
notwithstanding the story of Baldwin earl of Flanders being
overthrown in these straits, after he won Constantinople, I don't
fancy the Germans would find themselves stopped by them at this day.
'Tis true, the road is now made (with great industry) as commodious
as possible, for the march of the Turkish army; there is not one
ditch or puddle between this place and Belgrade, that has not a large
strong bridge of planks built over it; but the precipices are not so
terrible as I had heard them represented. At these mountains we lay
at the little village Kiskoi, wholly inhabited by Christians, as all
the peasants of Bulgaria are. Their houses are nothing but little
huts, raised of dirt baked in the sun; and they leave them and fly
into the mountains, some months before the march of the Turkish army,
who would else entirely ruin them, by driving away their whole
flocks. This precaution Secures them in a sort of plenty; for such
vast tracts of land lying in common, they have the liberty of sowing
what they please, and are generally very industrious husbandmen. I
drank here several sorts of delicious wine. The women dress
themselves in a great variety of coloured glass beads, and are not
ugly, but of a tawny complexion. I have now told you all that is
worth telling you, and perhaps more, relating to my journey. When I
am at Constantinople, I'll try to pick up some curiosities, and then
you shall hear again from Your's, &c.
LET. XXVIII
To THE COUNTESS or B----.
_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717.
AS I never can forget the smallest of your ladyship's commands, my
first business here has been to enquire after the stuffs you ordered
me to look for, without being able to find what you would like. The
difference of the dress here and at London is so great, the same sort
of things are not proper for _caftans_ and _manteaus_. However, I
will not give over my search, but renew it again at Constantinople,
though I have reason to believe there is nothing finer than what is
to be found here, as this place is at present the residence of the
court. The grand signior's eldest daughter was married some few days
before I came hither; and, upon that occasion, the Turkish ladies
display all their magnificence. The bride was conducted to her
husband's house in very great splendor (sic). She is widow of the
late vizier, who was killed at Peterwaradin, though that ought rather
to be called a contract than a marriage, since she never has lived
with him; however, the greatest part of his wealth is hers. He had
the permission of visiting her in the seraglio; and, being one of the
handsomest men in the empire, had very much engaged her
affections.--When she saw this second husband, who is at least fifty,
she could not forbear bursting into tears. He is indeed a man of
merit, and the declared favourite of the sultan, (which they call
_ mosayp_) but that is not enough to make him pleasing in the eyes of
a girl of thirteen.
THE government here is entirely in the hands of the army, the grand
signior, with all his absolute power, is as much a slave as any of
his subjects, and trembles at a janizary's frown. Here is, indeed, a
much greater appearance of subjection than amongst us; a minister of
state is not spoke to, but upon the knee: should a reflection on his
conduct be dropt (sic) in a coffee-house (for they have spies every
where) the house would be raz'd (sic) to the ground, and perhaps the
whole company put to the torture. No _huzzaing mobs, senseless
pamphlets, and tavern disputes about politics_;
A consequential ill that freedom draws;
A bad effect,--but from a noble cause.
None of our harmless calling names! but when a minister here
displeases the people, in three hours time he is dragged even from
his master's arms. They cut off hands, head, and feet, and throw
them before the palace gate, with all the respect in the world; while
the sultan (to whom they all profess an unlimited adoration) sits
trembling in his apartment, and dare neither defend nor revenge his
favourite. This is the blessed condition of the most absolute
monarch upon earth, who o---- no l---- but his _will_. [Editor's
note: Two words are unreadable due to damage to the book which may
have occurred at the time of printing. It seems probable that the
sentence should end ".. who owns no limit but his _will_.".]
I CANNOT help wishing, in the loyality (sic) of my heart, that the
parliament would send hither a ship-load of young passive obedient
men, that they might see arbitrary government in its clearest, and
strongest light, where 'tis hard to judge, whether the prince,
people, or ministers, are most miserable. I could make many
reflections on this subject; but I know, madam, your own good sense
has already furnished you with better than I am capable of.
I WENT yesterday along with the French ambassadress to see the grand
signior in his passage to the mosque. He was preceded by a numerous
guard of janizaries, with vast white feathers on their heads, as also
by the _spahis_ and _bostangees_, (these are foot and horse guards)
and the royal gardeners, which are a very considerable body of men,
dressed in different habits of fine lively colours, so that at a
distance, they appeared like a parterre of tulips. After them the
aga of the janizaries, in a robe of purple velvet, lined with silver
tissue, his horse led by two slaves richly dressed. Next him the
_kyzlier-aga_ (your ladyship knows, this is the chief guardian of the
seraglio ladies) in a deep yellow cloth (which suited very well to
his black face) lined with sables. Last came his sublimity himself,
arrayed in green, lined with the fur of a black Moscovite fox, which
is supposed worth a thousand pounds sterling, and mounted on a fine
horse, with furniture embroidered with jewels. Six more horses
richly caparisoned were led after him; and two of his principal
courtiers bore, one his gold, and the other his silver coffee-pot, on
a staff; another carried a silver stool on his head for him to sit
on.---It would be too tedious to tell your ladyship the various
dresses and turbants (sic) by which their rank is distinguished; but
they were all extremely rich and gay, to the number of some
thousands; so that perhaps there cannot be seen a more beautiful
procession. The sultan appeared to us a handsome man of about forty,
with something, however, severe in his countenance, and his eyes
very ---- ---- ---- [Editor's note: as above a few words are
illegible but seem to be 'sultry and black'.] He happened to stop
under the window where he stood, and (I suppose being told who we
were) looked upon us very attentively, so that we had full leisure to
consider him. The French ambassadress agreed with me as to his good
mien; I see that lady very often; she is young, and her conversation
would be a great relief to me, if I could persuade her to live
without those forms and ceremonies that make life so formal and
tiresome. But she is so delighted with her guards, her four and
twenty footmen, gentlemen, ushers, &c. that she would rather die than
make me a visit without them; not to reckon a coachful of attending
damsels ycleap'd (sic) maids of honour. What vexes me is, that as
long as she will visit me with a troublesome equipage, I am obliged
to do the same: however, our mutual interest makes us much together.
I went with her the other day all round the town, in an open gilt
chariot, with our joint train of attendants, preceded by our guards,
who might have summoned the people to see what they had never seen,
nor ever perhaps would see again, two young Christian ambassadresses
at the same time. Your ladyship may easily imagine, we drew a vast
crowd of spectators, but all silent as death. If any of them had
taken the liberties of our mobs upon any strange sight, our
janizaries had made no scruple of falling on them with their
scimitars, without danger for so doing, being above law. These
people however (I mean the janizaries) have some good qualities; they
are very zealous and faithful where they serve, and look upon it as
their business to fight for you on all occasions. Of this I had a
very pleasant instance in a village on this side Philippopolis, where
we were met by our domestic guards. I happened to bespeak pigeons
for supper, upon which one of my janizaries went immediately to the
cadi (the chief civil officer of the town) and ordered him to send in
some dozens. The poor man answered, that he had already sent about,
but could get none. My janizary, in the height of his zeal for my
service, immediately locked him up prisoner in his room, telling him
he deserved death for his impudence, in offering to excuse his not
obeying my command; but, out of respect to me, he would not punish
him but by my order. Accordingly he came very gravely to me, to ask
what should be done to him; adding, by way of compliment, that if I
pleased he would bring me his head.--This may give you some idea of
the unlimited power of these fellows, who are all sworn brothers, and
bound to revenge the injuries done to one another, whether at Cairo,
Aleppo, or any part of the world. This inviolable league makes them
so powerful, that the greatest man at court never speaks to them but
in a flattering tone; and in Asia, any man that is rich is forced to
enrol himself a janizary, to secure his estate.--But I have already
said enough; and I dare swear, dear madam, that, by this time, 'tis a
very comfortable reflection to you, that there is no possibility of
your receiving such a tedious letter but once in six months; 'tis
that consideration has given me the assurance of entertaining you so
long, and will, I hope, plead the excuse of, dear madam, Your's, &c.
LET. XXIX.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Adrianople, April_. 1. O. S. 1717.
I WISH to God, dear sister, that you were as regular in letting me
know what passes on your side of the globe, as I am careful in
endeavouring to amuse you by the account of all I see here, that I
think worth your notice. You content yourself with telling me over
and over, that the town is very dull: it may, possibly, be dull to
you, when every day does not present you with something new; but for
me that am in arrears, at least two months news, all that seems very
stale with you, would be very fresh and sweet here. Pray let me into
more particulars, and I will try to awaken your gratitude, by giving
you a full and true relation of the novelties of this place, none of
which would surprise you more than a sight of my person, as I am now
in my Turkish habit, though I believe you would be of my opinion,
that 'tis admirably becoming.--I intend to send you my picture; in
the mean time accept of it here.