By William E. McClintock, C.E.
[City Engineer of Chelsea.]
Sheltered from the winds of the Atlantic by the outlying towns of Revere
and Winthrop, and that section of the metropolis known as East Boston,
Chelsea occupies a peninsula, once called Winnisimmet, fronting on the
Mystic River and its two tributaries, the Island End and Chelsea Rivers.
Its area of fourteen hundred acres presents an undulating surface,
rising from the level of the salt marshes to four considerable
elevations, known as Hospital Hill, Mount Bellingham, Powderhom Hill,
and Mount Washington.
[Illustration: OLD FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH.
Corner of Broadway and Third Street.]
Originally it was included within the township of Boston, and was
settled as early as 1630; and a few years later was connected with
Boston by the Winnisimmet Ferry, whose charter, granted in 1639, makes
it the oldest chartered ferry company in the United States.
In those early days the Winnisimmet Ferry connected the foot of Hanover
Street, in Boston, with the old road leading to Salem and the eastward,
which followed the course of Washington Avenue.
Samuel Maverick, of Noddle's Island, an early settler, was the first
claimant of the land. Richard Bellingham, "the unbending, faithful old
man, skilled from his youth in English law, perhaps the draughtsman of
the charter [of the Massachusetts Colony], certainly familiar with it
from its beginning, was chosen to succeed Endicott," as governor. About
1634, he came into possession of most of Winnisimmet, but his title was
rather obscure; it was confirmed to him, however, by the town of Boston,
in 1640. He is not known to have lived upon his estate. He divided the
land into four farms, which he let to tenants,--subdivisions which
remained substantially the same for two centuries. The government
reservation is said to have remained in the possession of Samuel
Maverick.
[Illustration: WINNISIMMET FERRY LANDING.
About forty years ago.]
Governor Bellingham died in 1672, at the age of eighty, and, although
a lawyer and a good man, left behind him a will which gave rise to
litigation that continued for over a century. As this instrument affects
every title in Chelsea, it becomes of public interest. He bequeathed the
estate of Winnisimmet to trustees, to be devoted to the support of his
widow, his son, and his two nieces, during their lives, after which it
was to be used to build a meeting-house, support a minister, and educate
a limited number of young men for the ministry.
The son, Dr. Samuel Bellingham, after the death of his father, contested
the will in court, and had it set aside.
[Illustration: CENTRAL CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH.
Erected A.D. 1871.]
After his death the trustees named in the will brought a suit to carry
into effect the directions of the old governor. One by one they dropped
out of the contest, silenced by death, until at length the town
authorities undertook to maintain their supposed rights. It was not
until 1788, after the close of the Revolution, that the case was finally
decided, and the town was defeated.
After over a century of outlying dependence, and forced attendance in
all weathers at the churches in Boston, the good people of Winnisimmet,
Rumney Marsh, and Pullen Point, having demonstrated their willingness
and ability to support a minister, petitioned for and obtained the
privileges of a new parish and township, named Chelsea.[3] Rumney Marsh
is now known as Revere, and Pullen Point as Winthrop. The new township
also included a strip of land half a mile wide and four miles long,
extending north-westerly through what is now Maiden and Melrose, well
into the town of Wakefield, and at present forming a part of Saugus.
[Illustration: OLD UNITARIAN CHURCH.
Site of present church; moved and used by Bellingham Methodists.]
The old Town House, or meeting-house, built in 1710, and still standing,
was at Rumney Marsh.
The earliest census of the town, on record, was taken in 1776, and
indicated a population of four hundred and thirty-nine.
The Reverend Dr. Tuckerman was settled over the parish, which included
the whole township, in 1801, and for a quarter of a century ministered
to the people of an almost stationary community. During that time, only
three new buildings were erected; and they were built to replace as many
torn down.
In 1802, the Chelsea Bridge was built, to form a part of the turnpike
(Broadway) leading from Charlestown to Salem. Before that time, the only
way to reach Boston from Chelsea, with a loaded team, was through
Malden, Medford, Cambridge, and Roxbury, over the Neck, requiring a
whole day to make the journey.
As late as 1830, Winnisimmet was of no importance except as a
market-garden and thoroughfare. Of the seven hundred and seventy-one
inhabitants of Chelsea, but thirty lived within the present limits of
the city. The original Bellingham subdivisions were known as the Cary,
Carter, Shurtleff, and Williams Farms, and were owned and occupied by
those families. Three years previously, in 1827, the general government
had secured possession of the hospital reservation, which it still
occupies. About 1831, the value of Winnisimmet as the site for a future
city became apparent, and a land company was formed, which secured the
Shurtleff and Williams Farms, and laid out a very attractive city--on
paper.
The ferry accommodations at this date consisted of two sailboats
of about forty tons each. During the following summer the steam
ferry-boats, Boston and Chelsea, were put on the line, and increased the
value of property in Chelsea. These boats were the first of the kind to
navigate the waters of Boston Harbor.
In 1832, John Low built the first store, at the corner of Broadway and
Everett Avenue, and was the pioneer merchant of the city. The newcomers,
known to the older inhabitants as "roosters," settled principally in the
neighborhood of the landing. So many came, that in 1840 there were in
the town twenty-three hundred and ninety inhabitants. In 1832, the
omnibus, "North Ender," commenced running from Chelsea Ferry landing to
Boylston Market; the fare was twelve and one-half cents. The "Governor
Brooks," the first 'bus in Boston, had been running about a week before.
It was twenty years later when an omnibus line was established for the
convenience of the village.
[Illustration: First Baptist Church. Gerrish's Block. First M.E. Church,
Winnisimmet Congregational Church. Park Street.
JUNCTION OF PARK AND WINNISIMMET STREETS--1859.]
To town meetings at Rumney Marsh the settlers at the landing had to
tramp to vote on questions affecting the town. Right bravely would they
attend to their duties as citizens, to find their efforts of no avail on
account of the sharp practices of their neighbors of the Marsh and
Point, who would reverse their action at an adjourned meeting. At
length, in overwhelming numbers, they assembled once upon a time, and
voted a new Town House, near the site of the present Catholic church. As
a consequence, North Chelsea was set off in 1846, and Chelsea shrank to
its present boundaries. In 1850, notwithstanding the loss of so large an
extent of territory, Chelsea numbered sixty-seven hundred and one
inhabitants. Seven years later, in 1857, the town was granted a city
charter; it was divided into four wards, and Colonel Francis B. Fay was
inaugurated the first mayor.
From that time the growth of the city has been rapid. In 1860, there
were 13,395 inhabitants; in 1870, 18,547; in 1880, 21,785; to-day there
are probably 24,000. The Honorable Hosea Ilsley was the second mayor; he
was succeeded by the Honorable Frank B. Fay, in 1861; by the Honorable
Eustace C. Fitz, in 1864; by the Honorable Rufus S. Frost, in 1867; by
the Honorable James B. Forsyth, M.D., in 1869; by the Honorable John W.
Fletcher, in 1871; by the Honorable Charles H. Ferson, in 1873; by the
Honorable Thomas Green, in 1876; by the Honorable Isaac Stebbins, in
1877; by the Honorable Andrew J. Bacon, in 1879; by the Honorable Samuel
P. Tenney, in 1881; by the Honorable Thomas Strahan, the present mayor,
in 1883.
[Illustration: FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH.]
In 1849, the railway connected Chelsea with Boston, and in 1857 the
horse-cars commenced running.
During the Rebellion, Chelsea responded loyally for troops. In the Union
army there were sixteen hundred and fifty-one soldiers from Chelsea. Of
that number, forty-two were killed in battle; sixteen died of wounds;
seventy-five died in hospitals; nine died in Rebel prisons; besides one
hundred and four who were more or less seriously wounded. The city also
furnished one hundred and thirty-seven recruits for the navy during the
war. The city has commemorated those heroes who died for their country,
by a very appropriate monument in Union Park.
The conservative character of the political fathers of the city may be
judged by the fact that Samuel Bassett, who was first elected town clerk
in 1849, has served the town and city continuously in that capacity to
the present time. For the half-century before his election there had
been only three incumbents of the office.
[Illustration: Jonathan Bosson's house. Deacon Loring's house.
EPISCOPAL CHURCH.
Present site of D. & L. Slade's grain store; burned just after the late
war.]
The efforts of the land company, who fostered the early growth of the
city, were directed to induce people doing business in Boston to select
homesteads in Chelsea; but manufacturing was gradually introduced, until
to-day many important industries have become established, which have
given the place a world-wide reputation. Chief among these are the works
of the Magee Furnace Company. Their buildings occupy a lot of several
acres, fronting on Chelsea River. Here the celebrated Magee stove, in
all its various forms and patterns, is manufactured from the crude iron.
The establishment consumes two thousand tons of coal annually, and
converts four thousand tons of pig-iron into graceful and useful
articles. John Magee, the organizer and president of the company, is the
patentee of all the improvements. The works were established in Chelsea
in 1864; they employ five hundred operatives, and produce thirty
thousand stoves and furnaces yearly. These are shipped by car-load all
through the Northern and Western States, to the Pacific slope, reaching
Oregon without breaking bulk. Their goods are sold in England, Sweden,
Turkey, Cape Colony, Australia, China, and the islands of the Pacific,
although the home demand almost forbids their seeking a foreign market.
The popularity of their work may be known from the fact that one hundred
and fifty thousand stoves of one pattern have been sold. The iron
entering into the manufacture of stoves must be of a peculiar fineness
of texture. The best of ore of three or four qualities is mixed,
frequently tested, and constantly watched during the manufacturing
process.
[Illustration: OLD UNITARIAN CHURCH.]
The beauty of their stove castings has led to a new industry,--the
fine-art castings,--in which the most marvelous results are produced.
Professional artists and art critics are constantly employed in the
establishment, and many thousand dollars are judiciously expended
yearly, for the purpose of forming and perfecting new designs to meet
the popular demand.
[Illustration: NAVAL HOSPITAL.
Erected in 1836. Wing added in 1865.]
Another celebrated industry of Chelsea is the manufacture of the Low
tiles, for household decoration. John G. Low, son of the pioneer
merchant, is the artist who has created this class of goods, and he has
succeeded in producing a tile of special artistic value. His work
surpasses anything of the kind made in the world, and finds a market
wherever works of art and beauty are appreciated.
There are several establishments in the city, for the manufacture of
rubber goods of every variety, and many hundred operatives find
employment therein.
The famous "Globe Works" are soon to be occupied by the extensive
establishment of the Forbes Lithograph Company.
The Keramic Art Works of J. Robertson and Sons are noted throughout the
land for the beauty of their products.
The pioneer manufacturers of the city are the firm of Bisbee, Endicott,
and Company, who established a machine-shop in 1836, and a foundry in
1846, and are still in business.
Aside from these, Chelsea manufactures anchors, pilot-bread, mattresses,
bluing, boxes, bricks, britannia ware, brooms, cardigan jackets,
carriages, chairs, cigars, confectionery, enameled cloth, fire-brick,
furniture, hose, lamp-black, lumber, oils, wall-paper, planes, pottery,
roofing, salt, soap, spices, type, tinware, varnish, vaccine matter,
vessels, yeast, and window-shades,--giving employment to a very large
number of skilled artisans.
There are two well-managed banks in the city, two ably-conducted
newspapers, one large and several small hotels, and an Academy of Music,
which is one of the finest provincial theatres in New England, boasting
of a fine auditorium and a well-appointed stage.
The Naval Hospital, which generally accommodates about a dozen patients,
occupies eighty acres of the most desirable part of the city, the hill
upon which it is built overlooking Mystic River.
The Marine Hospital, in the same neighborhood, which has usually from
seventy-five to eighty patients from the ranks of our mercantile marine,
occupies a lot of about ten acres.
[Illustration: OLD MARINE HOSPITAL.
Fronting toward the water. Erected in 1827, and in 1857 converted
into a schoolhouse for the Hawthorne School.]
Powderhorn Hill the summit of which is about two hundred feet above the
level of the sea, commands a fine view of Boston Harbor, the ocean, and
many miles of inland territory. Chelsea is spread out like a map at its
base. It has been the dream of enthusiastic admirers of the varied
scenery afforded from the top, to include it within the limits of a
public park, forever set apart for the benefit of the present and coming
generations. Half-way up the side of the hill stands the Soldiers' Home,
where many scarred veterans of the Union army find a safe haven, cared
for by those who appreciate their struggles in their country's cause.
The city, although occupying narrow limits, has become a very attractive
place for residence. The streets are broad, straight, and shaded by very
many thrifty trees. The water-works, organized in 1867, supply good
water; gas is furnished at reasonable rates, and the city has nearly
completed a system of sewerage, which adds to the comfort and health of
the people. The public buildings are commodious and ornamental. Churches
of pleasing architecture, of many religious denominations, appropriate
school buildings and good schools, spacious and elegant private
mansions, a well-organized fire and police department, a public library,
low death-rate, and good morals, serve to make the city of Chelsea a
very desirable place for those seeking a quiet home in a law-abiding
municipality.
[Illustration: ACADEMY OF MUSIC.]
All through the colonial period the civil affairs of the community were
intimately connected with the interests of the church; and
ecclesiastical history, when church and State were united, and the
minister was the greatest man of the parish, becomes of importance.
As early as 1640, in the church of Boston, "a motion was made by such
as have farms at Rumney Marsh, that our Brother Oliver may be sent to
instruct our servants, and to be a help to them, because they cannot
many times come hither, nor sometimes to Lynn, and sometimes no where at
all." The piously disposed people of Boston evidently commiserated the
destitute condition of their poor dependents, and were desirous of
ministering to their spiritual wants.
[Illustration: THE RESIDENCE OF THE HON. THOMAS STRAHAN.]
[Illustration: AN INTERIOR IN THE HON. THOMAS STRAHAN'S RESIDENCE.]
[Illustration: GERRISH'S BLOCK.]
For many years the inhabitants of this section received the benefit of
irregular preaching from Brother Oliver and other kindly disposed
ministers from neighboring parishes. The wishes of Governor Bellingham
to provide for their wants had been frustrated, as before narrated.
Prior to 1706, the people were nominally connected with some church in
Charlestown or Boston. In that year, at the March meeting of the town of
Boston, a committee was appointed to consider what they should think
proper to lay before the town relating to petitions of sundry of the
inhabitants of Rumney Marsh about the building of a meeting-house.
Action was postponed, from year to year, until August 29, 1709, when it
was voted to raise one hundred pounds, to be laid out "in building a
meeting-house at Rumney Marsh." The raising of the frame was in July of
the following year.
The Reverend Thomas Cheever, son of the famous schoolmaster, was chosen
pastor October 17, 1715, and was dismissed December 21, 1748. At the
formation of the church, the Reverend Cotton Mather, D.D., was
moderator, and there were eight male members, including the pastor.
The Reverend Thomas Cheever was born in 1658; was graduated at Harvard
College in 1677; was ordained and settled in Maiden, July 27, 1681; was
dismissed in 1686, "on the advice of an ecclesiastical council"; removed
to Rumney Marsh and lived in the Newgate House; taught school many
years, and preached occasionally; died December 27, 1749, aged about
ninety-two years.
[Illustration: CITY HOTEL.]
Toward the close of his ministry, the Reverend William McClenachan was
installed as Mr. Cheever's colleague, although considerable opposition
was manifested, and several prominent members withdrew to other
churches. The connection of the pastor with the church continued until
December 25, 1754, when Mr. McClenachan left them and joined the
Established Church of England. He was a man of remarkable eloquence, and
soon after his resignation of the pastorate of the Chelsea parish, he
went to England.
[Illustration: C.A. CAMPBELL'S COAL OFFICE.]
The Reverend Phillips Payson was settled as pastor, October 26, 1757. He
was a noted scholar and teacher, and was a man of much influence in his
day. He was an active patriot during the Revolution, led his
parishioners in person, and held a commission from the Massachusetts
authorities. He preached the Election Sermon in 1778, and died in
office, January 11, 1801. He was born in Walpole, January 18, 1730, and
was graduated at Harvard College in 1754.
The Reverend Joseph Tuckerman, D.D., was ordained and settled over the
parish November 4, 1801, and maintained this relation for just one
quarter of a century, preaching his farewell sermon November 4, 1826. He
was born in Boston, January 18, 1778; was graduated at Harvard College
in 1798; died in Havana, April 20, 1840.
The First Baptist Church, the first religious society at Ferry Village,
was organized in 1836.
The Unitarian Church was organized in 1838.
The First Methodist Episcopal Church was organized in 1839. The
meeting-house they first occupied was on Park Street; it has been
recently sold to the Grand Army of the Republic. The edifice they now
occupy is on Walnut Street.
[Illustration: REVERE RUBBER COMPANY.]
The St. Luke's Episcopal Church and the First Congregational Church were
organized in 1841.
The First Universalist Church was organized in 1842.
The Central Congregational Church was organized in 1843, under the name
of Winnisimmet.
The St. Rose Catholic Church was organized in 1849.
The Mount Bellingham Methodist Episcopal Church was organized in 1853.
The Cary-avenue Baptist Church was organized in 1859.
The Third Congregational Church was organized in 1877.
[Illustration: T.H. BUCK & BROTHER'S LUMBER YARD.]
The importance of education for the children was recognized at an early
date by the settlers of Winnisimmet and Rumney Marsh. Brother Oliver may
have given instruction; Thomas Cheever certainly did, and for his
services received twenty pounds per annum from the town of Boston, as
shown by the vote of January 24, 1709.
In 1833, the town of Chelsea was divided into three districts, known as
the Ferry, Centre, and Point. In 1834, Point Shirley district was set
off from the Point; and in 1838 the northern district was set off from
the Centre. The school committee, first elected in 1797, made their
first written report in 1839; their first printed report in 1841.
The first schoolhouse in Ferry district was built in 1833, near the
corner of Chestnut Street and Washington Avenue.
[Illustration: BOSTON RUBBER COMPANY, WINNISIMETT STREET.]
In 1837, the Park-street schoolhouse was built, and the following year a
grammar school was kept.
In 1839, a primary school was started at Prattville. From the
committee's report one is led to infer "that a stump with a piece of
board on top for a seat, having no back attached, affords no enviable
resting-place."
In 1840, there were two primary schools in Ferry village, one occupying
the site of the Pioneer newspaper office, the other near the corner of
Shawmut Street and Central Avenue.
The question of starting a high school was agitated in 1840, but no
action was taken until 1845. In 1850, a high school building was erected
on Second and Walnut Streets.
In January, 1873, the present high school building, on Bellingham
Street, was dedicated with appropriate exercises, Tracy P. Cheever
delivering the address.
The tithingmen were the ancient conservators of the peace, and were
chosen annually as late as 1834; after that date their duties devolved
upon the constables. In 1847, a night-watch was first deemed necessary.
In 1854, the first steps were taken toward organizing a police force.
During the year occurred the memorable Know-Nothing riot, which resulted
in the pulling down of a cross.
The first city government established a police department, and appointed
a city marshal and six assistants. As at present organized, there is a
chief-of-police, two deputies, and fifteen patrol-men, whose duties are
to keep watch over the city day and night, keep the peace, and protect
property, and observe and report any defects in the public way which
could by any chance result in injury to either man or beast.
In 1842, at the annual town-meeting the selectmen were authorized to
erect twelve street-lamps. Their number has been increased from time to
time until there are now over five hundred and fifty lamps, besides two
large lanterns: one on the Square, the other in front of the Academy of
Music.
[Illustration: MAGEE FURNACE COMPANY'S FOUNDRY.]
[Illustration: HIGH SCHOOL. ERECTED IN 1872. F.A. HILL, PRINCIPAL.]
[Illustration: FIRING THE KILN. (Low's Art Tile Works.)]
A board of health was first elected in 1846. From 1850, to the
organization of the city government, the selectmen acted as the board.
From 1857 to 1878 the duties of the board were in the hands of the mayor
and board of aldermen. Since 1878, a board has been annually elected.
Their supervision and oversight have been of great advantage to the
city.
In 1863, the Chelsea Library Association presented the city with about
one thousand volumes, which became the nucleus of the Public Library.
Eight thousand books have already been collected; they are soon to be
gathered within an appropriate and spacious building generously donated
to the city.
There is much of romance in the history of such an ancient settlement as
Winnisimmet and Rumney Marsh, although most of the incidents worthy of
note have long since passed into oblivion.
The Indian wars never affected directly the early settlers, for before
hostilities commenced the frontier had been advanced some miles into the
interior; but the brave sons of the pioneers were called upon for the
defence of more exposed localities, and promptly responded.
"In military affairs Rumney Marsh, for many years, was associated with
the neighboring towns in Essex and Middlesex, in an organization called
the 'Three County Troop.'" The company appears to have been formed as
early as May, 1659. Edward Hutchinson was confirmed as the first
captain. Captain John Tuttle was in command of the company in 1673.
In the war of 1676, the Three County Troop sent ten men, "well fitted
with long arms," to the rendezvous at Concord.
"In the year 1677, about April the 7th, six or seven men were slain by
the Indians, near York, while they were at work two miles from the town,
whereof one was the son of Lieutenant Smith of Winnisimmet, a hopeful
young man.... Five Indians paddled their canoes down towards York, where
they killed six of the English, and took one captive, May 19 following;
and, May 23, four days after, one was killed at Wells, and one taken by
them betwixt York and Wells; amongst whom was the eldest son of
Lieutenant Smith, forementioned; his younger brother was slain in the
same town not long before."
The company was disbanded in 1690. A company of sixty soldiers under
command of Captain John Floyd, a citizen of Rumney Marsh, was sent as a
garrison to protect the frontier at Portsmouth, about this date.
[Illustration: ORNAMENTAL JUG. (Low's Art Tile Works.)]
"While the regulars were on their retreat from Lexington, on the 19th of
April, 1775, protected by reinforcements under command of Lord Percy, a
detached party who were carrying stores and provisions were attacked at
Metonomy by Rev. Phillips Payson, leading a party of his parishioners,
whom he had hastily gathered on the alarm. One of the regulars was
killed and some were taken prisoners, together with arms and stores,
without loss to the attacking party."
Captain Samuel Sprague had command of a Chelsea company of twenty-eight
men, which was mustered into the service April 19, 1775. At a later date
Chelsea furnished the patriot army with a company of fifty-two men,
under the same commander.
[Illustration: A GROUP OF TILES. (Low's Art Tile Works.)]
"On the 27th of May, 1775, as a party of the Massachusetts forces,
together with a party of New Hampshire forces, In all about six hundred
men, were attempting to bring off the stock upon Hog Island, and about
thirty men upon Noddle's Island were doing the same, when above a
hundred regulars landed upon the last-mentioned island and pursued our
men till they got safely back to Hog Island."
A spirited engagement ensued, attended, however, with no serious loss to
the American forces. The regulars were supported by an armed schooner
which the enemy were obliged to abandon, having first set the vessel on
fire.
[Illustration: A TILED FIREPLACE. (Low's Art Tile Works.)]
General Putnam, Colonel Stark, and Dr. Joseph Warren, are said to have
been present during the contest, either as actors or witnesses.
"During the siege of Boston, Chelsea formed the extreme left of the line
of circumvallation; and on the south-eastern slope of Mount Washington
stands the house of Robert Pratt, which occupies the site of an earlier
house at which Washington lunched when inspecting the lines."
In closing this sketch, the writer wishes to give credit to the
Honorable Mellen Chamberlain, an honored resident of Chelsea, for
information relating to the early history of the town, which he has
kindly furnished, and to the researches embodied in his valuable
article, "Winnisimmet, Rumney Marsh, Pullen Point, and Chelsea, in the
Provincial Period," printed in the second volume of the Memorial History
of Boston, published by James R. Osgood and Company, in 1881.
It is not difficult to predict the future of Chelsea. Situated as it is
on navigable waters, with an extensive waterfront, near to the
metropolis of New England, and already the site of many important
industries, prosperity awaits it. Time alone can tell whether, like its
namesake in the Mother-Country, it becomes absorbed in the neighboring
and growing city, or develops into a great manufacturing suburb, like
Newark and Patterson.
[Illustration]
[Footnote 3: Date of Act, January 10, 1739.
Chelsea, as every Englishman is aware, is the name of a suburb of
London, where are situated the great national hospitals of Great Briton.
It was in existence as a village as early as A.D. 785, but was long
since absorbed by the expanding city.]
* * * * *