CHAPTER X

Mourning customs—“Keening” the dead—The night before the

funeral—Sympathetic friends—“Accompanying” the mourners—A

verbal error—Black masks at a dance—A black-draped house—The

locked piano—Three years’ seclusion—The mourning of the

poor—Black shirts but laughing faces—“Killed in action”—The

heroism of Rosa—“My Papa”—Why Paz will be an old maid.

Mourning in Spain is a serious feature of family and social life. Even in

the larger towns one sees but a slight tendency to move with the times,

and away from Madrid, Seville, or Barcelona the rigid observance of

ancient customs is, like the customs themselves, quite Oriental.

I remember being kept awake almost all one night in a large town by an

extraordinary concert of lamentable sounds which issued from a tenement

house next door. First came a long tenor wail, rising and falling in a

minor key, then a precisely similar wail in a deep contralto, and then

in a shrill treble, evidently from a child. I learnt next morning that

an infant had died in the house in question, and that the father, the

mother, and a small brother had been “keening” the dead all night long.

This demonstration of grief is not so common now as it was a few years

ago, even among the least educated classes, but other peculiarities

hardly more in accordance with modern ideas are to be observed among

mourners of all ranks.

Of these one of the strangest, to our ideas, is the custom of holding

what might be called a wake over the corpse the night after death. The

funeral has to take place within twenty-four hours, an excellent sanitary

regulation which we English might adopt with advantage. But, as a young

lady in deep mourning for her adored mother calmly remarked to me, “It is

true that in the cold climate of England dead persons do not decompose so

rapidly as here.” It is also true that twenty-four hours amply suffice

to put the family into mourning in a country where every woman has, as a

matter of course, a suit of black in her wardrobe all the year round, so

that no time is lost in making clothes for the funeral, and on the night

after a death has taken place all the most intimate friends are ready to

sit round in token of sympathy.

A great deal of very real kindness is shown in cases of severe illness.

Trained nurses are seldom or never called in, but the friends take turns

to sit up with the family and the patient, and, if they are not rich,

keep them supplied with chickens, eggs, and whatever else may be of use

in the sick-room. The custom of “accompanying” the sufferer is, however,

sometimes embarrassing to foreigners. On one occasion, when a member of

my family was supposed to be _in articulo mortis_, his most intimate

Spanish friend almost insisted on sharing my night-watches; and when at

length I persuaded him that even his sympathetic presence might prove

injurious to one for whom absolute quiet was the only chance, he said

with intense conviction—

“At least you must promise to send for me at any moment of the day or

night when you know the last hour is at hand, that I may witness the

ascent of so noble a soul to heaven!”

My appreciation of what I knew was meant for the truest kindness hardly

mitigated my repugnance to the mere suggestion of such an intrusion on

one’s privacy at such a time. Happily for Don Antonio’s feelings as

well as for mine, the illness took a favourable turn, and our friend’s

tears of delight at the good news quickly obliterated the jar he had all

unconsciously inflicted on one’s susceptibilities at the time of crisis.

Another friend, out of sheer courtesy and goodness of heart, contrived to

shock still more our British ideas: he came post-haste, on hearing that

the patient was given up, to offer his services in the arrangements for

the funeral!

Our ideas of keeping the sick-room free from movement or noise, and our

refusal to receive at the bedside all the kind Spanish friends who came

to inquire, struck them as very strange indeed, for with them sympathy

is necessarily expressed by providing plenty of company “to cheer the

sufferer” and those near and dear to him. I remember on one occasion

being pressed by a friend to go and call on the mother of a girl who

was desperately ill with meningitis—a complaint which (if correctly

diagnosed) seems curiously common among the well-to-do in this country. I

demurred, on the ground that my very slight acquaintance with the lady

hardly justified my intruding on her grief and anxiety.

“But she is my cousin, and you are my friend, and she will certainly

notice your absence if you do not go.”

I went. I counted twelve women and girls in the patient’s room, for I was

obliged to go upstairs and look at the poor girl through the open door,

or be regarded as cruelly unkind by the mother.

She died, as was to be expected, a few days later, and I had to appear at

the house of mourning on the evening of the funeral, accompanied by the

one member of our family belonging to the dead girl’s generation. I had

a black dress, but my girl had only a white one, and we had hoped that

this might be accepted as an excuse for her non-appearance. By no means.

The cousin and her two daughters came in person, swathed in black silk

shawls from head to foot, to insist on our both going with them to “_dar

el pésame_,” to express sympathy with the mourner.

It was one of the most distressing experiences I have had in Spain. We

elder people all sat round the room on chairs, sofas, and settees too

heavy to move an inch from their appointed places, and one by one we were

led into a small inner room where the mother, blind with crying, sat

hunched up with her elbows on her knees and her head on her hands, giving

loud utterance to her unrestrained grief.

“Oh, my daughter, my dear companion! Oh, my daughter, my dear companion!”

she moaned over and over again in a voice hoarse with sobbing, and not

in the least knowing what she was saying.

We had to sit down and kiss her tear-drenched cheek and say what a

beautiful and charming girl her Belén had been, and offer a conventional

prayer for divine consolation, and then some one else came in to take our

place, amid a fresh burst of sobs and moans. The poor soul had worked

herself into a state of hysterics, but through it all was conscious

that she was fulfilling her friends’ expectations and doing the right

thing by her daughter in thus proving herself helplessly broken down by

her trouble. Self-restraint on such an occasion is considered to show

coldness of heart and a lack of respect and affection for the dead.

When I came out after my painful interview with the mother, I found all

the young cousins and companions of poor Belén in shrieks of laughter,

and they all turned on me exclaiming—

“Oh Doña Elena, how funny your Olivita is! What amusing things she says!

And what strange customs you have in your country!”

It appeared that my “Olivita” had been trying to explain in her still

imperfect Spanish that in England young men and maidens were allowed to

go out walking together, unchaperoned as here by “Mamma” on one side and

“my aunt” on the other. And in mistake for _pasear_, to go out walking,

she had used the word _besar_, which means to kiss. So that our mourners

took her to say that it was the custom in England for the men and girls

to kiss each other whenever they met in the street, and their amusement

at the idea had completely blotted out of their minds for the time being

the melancholy reason for their meeting.

The elder ladies took it all as a matter of course.

“Poor children,” they remarked; “they are very tired, and they laugh

easily. It is quite natural, and generally happens on these sad

occasions.”

As may be imagined, such vociferous grief does not long endure; but well

as I thought I understood the Spanish temperament, I was rather shocked

when on one occasion two girls in black masks and dominoes accosted me at

a Carnival dance, and revealed themselves as the sisters of a youthful

bride who had died, with her baby, less than a month before.

They threw themselves on my mercy, fearing that I might recognise them,

and begged me not to betray their escapade to their mother, who believed

them to be spending the evening with a sick friend, and whose consent had

been with difficulty obtained for them to go out even on that errand, so

soon after their sister’s death. I think this was an exceptional instance

of “quick frost, long thaw,” but one often finds women in deep mourning

speaking bitterly of the restrictions imposed by custom on their social

and even their home life when a near relative dies.

I have heard of the whole house, from the street door to the ladies’

boudoir, being hung with black draperies for the nine days of rigorous

mourning after the sudden death of the master of the house, and during

all that time the women had to sit in semi-darkness, morning, noon, and

night. The daughters were not allowed to touch the piano for three full

years after their father’s death. A friend of theirs and mine told me

that the girls, who were very fond of music, and good pianists, moped

themselves into actual illness, so keenly did they feel the loss of their

favourite occupation after their first grief had worn off, but nothing

would induce the mother to have the piano unlocked. They were fresh young

girls in their teens when the father died, full of life, of good social

position, and with plenty of money to gratify every whim. When I saw them

after their three years’ seclusion they were pale, thin, and melancholy,

and looked like women nearer thirty than twenty in their enveloping

chiffon veils, for although they had left off crape they were still clad

in black from head to foot.

The friend in question, a young married woman with a devoted husband and

two pretty little girls, had herself just emerged from a year’s strict

retirement after losing her mother. She told me she was looked on by the

older generation as an unnatural creature, because she had now begun to

play her beloved piano again.

“You cannot tell how I have longed for music sometimes, as I grew

accustomed to my loss,” she said, “but I could not bring myself to

play. It would have seemed so dreadful to my friends and relations. I

have often been terribly sad. I have sometimes almost gone mad with

depression. My husband has begged me to travel with him, to play the

piano, to do anything in the world that would tend to lessen my sadness.

But as I never obey him when I am happy, you may guess how little

attention I paid to his wishes when I was mourning for my mother. Now it

is a year since she died, and I cannot help it if my neighbours criticise

me. I _must_ begin to live again.”

The strange thing about this shocking exaggeration of the outward

semblance of grief is that while almost every woman one meets complains

of its absurdity, its evil effects on the health, its cruel inroads on

youth and happiness, none of them have the courage actively to rebel.

Poor people, while of necessity rousing themselves speedily to go out

in search of the day’s wage, are just as strict as the rich in their

mourning garb. When a parent dies, everything has to be black: black

facings are stitched on to the men’s shirt fronts and cuffs, black

cotton coats are worn, black neckties in place of collars, and black

felt hats, even in the height of summer. The women for their part wear

black underclothes beneath their black dresses, and tie up their heads in

black handkerchiefs, sometimes pawning all their coloured clothes to pay

for the conventional garments of woe. Beneath these gloomy trappings one

often sees beaming smiles and eyes full of life and fun; for the workers

are nothing if not sincere, and when they feel happy they show it. But

when the country is in trouble whole towns and villages seem to feel it;

as, for instance, during the Moroccan War of 1909. The massacre of some

two thousand soldiers in the death-trap of the Gurugú at Melilla threw a

great number of poor families into mourning; and again in 1913, during

the campaign of Larache, as it was here called, mourning was widespread.

Every day brought news that one or two or ten or twenty men had fallen in

the guerilla war carried on against Spain by the arch-bandit El Raisuli:

and here not only the immediate family of the dead man wears black for

him, but mourning is _de rigueur_ among all the collateral relations even

to second and third cousins.

This was brought home to me one day when I wanted to photograph a stream

where women and girls were washing, for every one of them that day wore

black. We finally gave up the attempt, and waited for another occasion,

for, as I remarked to my photographer, we ought to introduce in the

brilliant sunshine at least one girl dressed in colours.

“Very true,” was his answer, “but there is a great deal of mourning

about. You see there are so many soldiers dying in Morocco just now.”

And many officers too, was my mental addition, for his words sent my

thoughts with a painful rebound to a scene of domestic tragedy which I

had witnessed not long before.

A lad of twenty-one, fresh from the Military Academy at Toledo, had

been killed in his first action, within a week of landing in Africa.

His younger brother and sister were driving to attend the _Jura de la

Bandera_ (oath to the colours) of the new recruits on the parade-ground

outside the town where they lived. They bought a morning paper and read

in it the news of their brother’s death, “which he gloriously met in

the endeavour to save a wounded private.” Their father, who was an army

doctor, was away from home; their mother, an invalid suffering from

heart trouble, never read a paper. The two poor children, for they were

nothing more, determined to conceal from her what had happened until

their father’s return. He meanwhile, to break the blow, telegraphed to

her that their Antonito was wounded, and she jumped to the conclusion

that he was bringing the young man home to be nursed, and for three

mortal days Julian and Adelita kept their secret and watched their mother

preparing the bedroom and making cooling drinks and strengthening broths

for the boy who was already in his grave.

My girl, who was a great friend of theirs, told me that Adela and her

brother broke down completely when they were with her and out of their

mother’s sight, but they contrived somehow or other to pull themselves

together and bear brave faces before her, even when she called them

straight from the condolences of sympathetic friends in the _cancela_

to ask their opinion of this or that arrangement she had made for the

comfort of their lost brother. They thought that their father, being a

doctor, would know how to tell her what had happened without danger to

her health, when he came home, and that gave them strength to play their

parts.

Poor children and poor mother! When on the third day the cab drove up and

the father got out alone, Doña Ramona needed no telling of the truth. She

cried out, “My son is dead! I knew it all the time,” and fell fainting on

the floor. And even then Adela and Julian subdued their own grief, while

they helped to carry her upstairs and lay her on the bed which she did

not leave again for many weeks.

And here I should like to tell another little story, also of brave

self-restraint in the face of death, though of a different character.

Whatever may be the attitude of certain classes of Spaniards towards

their religion and their priests, it is certain that most ladies of

gentle birth believe implicitly in the dogmas and teaching of their

Church. And of these one tenet of the truth of which they are absolutely

convinced is that a soul which leaves the body unshriven will suffer

doubly in purgatory, unless Supreme Unction is omitted owing to wilful

obstruction on some one else’s part. In such a case the one who

interferes with the last rites must bear the penalty, which here, in

the belief of a strict Catholic, amounts to little less than eternal

damnation.

A girl friend of mine saw her mother suddenly struck down with pneumonia,

and the doctors told her that the case was quite hopeless, and that

death must supervene within three days. None of the family had had the

slightest idea that there was any danger, and when Rosa returned to the

sick-room after hearing the verdict, her mother reproached her for being

so long away.

“I heard you talking,” she said; “who were you with, and what was all the

conversation about?”

“It was the—the—laundress,” said Rosa, “you know how careless she is.”

Her great-aunt, a stern old lady who ruled Rosa and her sister with a rod

of iron, here called the girl out of the room.

“Not a moment must be lost,” she said. “We must immediately send for the

priest, lest your mother should suddenly die without the Holy Oils.”

And now Rosa, a plump, placid, and hitherto seemingly characterless

person, showed what filial love is capable of. I will finish the story in

her own words, as she related it to me a few months later.

“I knew that if the priest came it would frighten my mother terribly.

She was not at all frightened then, and was she to spend her last days

on earth in a state of panic? ‘I will not send for the priest,’ I told

my great-aunt, for it was _my_ duty to send in the absence of my father,

because I was the elder of the children and a nearer relation than my

great-aunt. She was very angry. ‘You know what this means?’ she asked,

and I said ‘Yes.’ I knew what my punishment would be, and I was willing

to remain for ever in purgatory to spare my mother the fear and pain of

knowing that she must leave us all. I was very frightened, but I would

not give way, and my father is a free-thinker, so when he came home

he said I had done well. But after my mother was dead (she died quite

peacefully, thinking she was only falling asleep) my conscience troubled

me very much, and I went and told what I had done to our confessor. And

he was very gentle to me. He said: ‘Child, there are moments when what

seems a mortal sin is only a lesser sin.’ And he gave me only a little

penance, for he said he knew I had suffered very much.”

I am generally very careful to refrain from expressing any sort of

opinion regarding the rites and rules of a religion which is not my own;

but on this occasion I forgot myself. I told Rosa she had behaved nobly,

and kissed her on both cheeks as heartily as if I had been a Spanish

lady. With immense difficulty I had induced the father and the terrible

great-aunt to let Rosa come with me to the seaside, for she had been

ailing ever since her mother’s death, and it was considered impossible

for her to leave the house in her own town, even for the walks which the

doctor had recommended as necessary exercise.

“Dear Doña Elena, you are too good to me,” she said, returning my embrace

with effusion; “how glad I am Papa let me come to stay with you. Paz and

I were both getting so dreadfully fat sitting indoors all day, and oh!

so _triste_. My mother liked society and amusement, as you know, and

she took us out every day to the Promenade or to pay visits, and now we

can never go out at all, except to Mass, and we were getting fatter and

fatter. Paz has her _novio_, but I had nothing to distract me till you

brought me here. If it were not for my dear Papa I should like to stop

with you all the summer.”

Her “dear Papa” was a distinguished-looking man who earned a good

income in a Government office, but having perpetrated a poem or two

when younger, went through life posing as a soul astray in a desert

of uninteresting fact. He wore rather long hair thrown back from his

forehead in picturesque disarray. The picturesqueness was, however,

somewhat discounted by my simple Rosa, who, seeing a bottle of a

favourite Spanish hair-wash on my table, naïvely observed—

“My Papa is using this. His hair has got thin on the top of his head, and

he is so worried about it! Do you think this stuff is any good? Paz and I

take turns to rub it on his scalp every night for half an hour before he

goes to bed, but I don’t see much difference.”

“My Papa” was by no means a disconsolate widower. While the women of the

family carry their mourning to the exaggerated lengths I have described,

the men resume their usual habits a very short time after the funeral.

Thus Papa’s daughters would often have to sit up very late at night to

attend to his hyacinthine locks before he went to bed, but they took it

all as a matter of course, and would have been extremely surprised had I

hinted that Rosa’s delicate health and over-strained nerves might be a

sufficient excuse for her release from these nocturnal duties. This is

another aspect of the Oriental tradition—the inability of both men and

women to realise that the husband or the father has not the right, simply

because he is the husband or the father, to demand from his women-folk

the service of slaves at all hours of the day or night, regardless of

their convenience, happiness, or health.

When their mother had been dead a year, and Rosa and Paz had recovered

their natural spirits and were ready to enjoy life again, their father

had an attack of influenza, and both the girls got into a panic lest they

were to be left doubly orphaned. He was not seriously ill, but very sorry

for himself, and for months afterwards, whenever he caught the slightest

cold or felt the least little indigestion, he would come home from his

office and go straight to bed, and then he expected both his daughters to

be ready to wait upon him. Paz always had to prepare his meals, because

she knew better than the cook how he liked them flavoured; and Rosa had

to be on hand to sit with him, read to him, and generally anticipate his

every requirement. And as they never knew when he might feel unwell and

come home to bed, and as he, of course, never dreamed of sending them

notice beforehand from his office, it ended in his daughters literally

never daring to go out at all after lunch.

I was shocked when I discovered the life they were leading. The _novio_

of Paz had broken off the engagement, nominally because she could not pay

her weekly duty calls on his mother, who was a stickler for etiquette

and had no sympathy with “my Papa’s” hypochondria, and the only gleam of

brightness on the poor girls’ horizon was the appearance of a lover for

Rosa, the quiet one of the sisters, who had never attracted attention

like handsome Paz. It was quite useless to ask them out, to suggest

their taking turns in keeping Papa company, to make impromptu calls on

the way to cinematographs or theatres on the chance of finding them

free. Papa always either had just gone to bed or was just expected home

to dinner; their duty to him had become an obsession, and the obsession

was encouraged by him from purely selfish motives, and by the old aunt

because in her view the girls would be committing a grave breach of

decorum in going into society so soon (well over a year!) after their

mother’s death. And worst of all, papa, from pure jealousy, objected to

Rosa’s lover and forbade him the house, professing to have discovered

that his means were uncertain, and announcing that he had no intention of

spending his own hard-earned money on the support of an idle son-in-law.

But for once Papa met his match. The lover was neither idle nor

impecunious, but a man of strong character and good position, and he was

genuinely attached to our placid Rosa. So one fine morning the lovers met

at Mass, and got married after a fashion peculiar, I believe, to Spain.

Just before the Mass ended they stepped forward, declared themselves

man and wife, and asked for a blessing on their union. The priest may

object, but he cannot refuse, for he must pronounce the benediction after

saying Mass, and that serves as the blessing which sanctions these stolen

marriages.

So Rosa went away with her husband and was happy, and soon fined down

to her normal soft but shapely plumpness, while poor Paz stayed at home

and pandered to her father until she came to weigh something like two

hundredweight.

I met her quondam _novio_ shortly after Rosa’s marriage, and gently

reproached him for deserting the girl whom he had “pretended to” for so

long.

“Don’t blame me,” he said; “it’s all her father’s fault for not letting

her take enough exercise to keep her fat down. I am not tall (he was

about five feet high, a slim little pocket Adonis), and I haven’t the

courage to make myself ridiculous by marrying a woman who will make two

of me before she is thirty.”

I could not help feeling that there was something to be said on his side;

but once again the cruel results of this branch of Spanish etiquette

became apparent. If Paz had been able to lead a natural life, walking

by day and dancing by night, as she did while her mother was living,

she would not have lost either her figure or her lover, for before they

went into mourning she and Rosa were among the merriest and most active

of all the girls in their set. And now one can anticipate for her no

brighter future than to be the maiden aunt to Rosa’s children, a sort of

household drudge and mother’s help for life;—beloved, it is true, by the

nephews and nieces, who will regard her with an affection almost if not

quite equal to that bestowed on their mother herself, but always just

“my aunt,” a woman in a subordinate position, given a home for the sake

of her services as nurse while the children are young, and as duenna

when the girls grow up. She will always be cheerful and philosophical,

for Paz is made that way, and she will always be practical and helpful

in the house. But she will be an old maid, a good wife spoiled, and she

will feel it to the end. And all because when she was yet in her teens

she was compelled to sit indoors for a year after her mother’s death,

and therefore grew so fat that her lover was frightened away. Poor Paz!

She is one of many victims to a ridiculous and indefensible custom and a

mistaken sense of duty.

My Spanish Year · 第 6 / 9 章