Coventry, Leicester, London, and Litchfield, and some thing farther to
High Crosse which is Esteemed y^e middle of England, where the two great
Roads meete that divides the Kingdom in the Saxons tyme in 4 parts, the
Whatling Streete on which still I Continued, and the Ffosse way; thus to
a Little place Called Smockington, fitted for jnns, on a Road, very
Comodious. Here I Lay in Warwickshire 10 mile, thence 6 mile to Anderton
and Talmouth 7, where I Enter Staffordshire, soe Litchfield 6 mile,
thence Woolsly Eight, from thence to Budsworth, Lord Pagets in a ffine
Parke, Large Coale mines about it. The house is old but the front very
regular, 3 Juttings out, Large Compass windows, a good Little parlour,
out of the hall another Large one with drawing roome and bed Chamber and
good back staires and Entrys, Large Light fit for attendance. then you
go up and Enter a dineing roome, drawing roome and Chamber, a Long
gallery that is the Length of the house and broad, and which adds to its
greatness. The End opens doores on a terrass out in the garden of same
breadth and Length up to an orchard or wilderness which Lookes very
nobly. Here at Each End is two good Chambers of state, Lofty, with anty
Chambers and for servants and back staires. There are many very good
roomes of a second rate w^{ch} if well ffurnish’d would Look well. The
Leads are a greate many stepps up on the top, a Large Cupilow of
windows, and y^e walls round y^e Leads are so high a person of a middle
stature Cannot Look over them scarce when on tiptoe, which is a Greate
Lessening of its beauty w^{ch} would give a Large prospect round of the
Country of 10 or 12 miles off. There is an addition of new wall on the
battlements w^{ch} is visible so its Likely it was from some accident
from y^e Leads Enduced y^e walls being built higher. This Lord has a
greate Command and Royalty in the County, the Kank forrest of 20 mile is
his, most of y^e gentlemen in the County pay him Chiefe Rent and some
hold Right in some of their Land by waiteing on him on some solemn feast
dayes in the yeare, and bring up his dinner and waite on him as he
Eates, if then in the Country. But these things are better wav’d then
sought and is not done few tymes in an age to keep up the Custom.
Ffrom Woolsly after an 8 weekes stay I went to Wolverhampton 11 long
mile, then to Church-hill neare Sturbridge 9 or 10 mile farther, by the
many Glasshouses where they Blow Broad Glass, but they were not at work
on that sort when I was there. At Church-hill was at a farmer Like a
Gentleman’s, a new pretty house of brick, but wanted ffurniture and
Cleaneing and good order, but a hearty M^r and M^{rs}. The hill is
pretty high and gives a great view of the Country which most belongs to
M^r Foley-Tom of 10,000^£—Large Comonage, there he has a Little Lodge,
new brick; his own house is 6 or 10 mile thence all within his own
grounds, and has great jron works and mines, this is within two mile of
Kederminster, as farre on the other side to Sturbridge. Thence I went to
Worcester town a sandy way, and here are in some places quicksands. This
is a 10 Long mile to Worcester but pretty flatt way for the most part,
thence to Newhouse 12 or 14, the basest way for hills, stony narrow
hollow wayes very difficult to pass.
I went from Newhouse to Stoake four miles, M^r Foley’s the speaker’s son
has a very fine pile of building, the wing to Herreford being now up in
the Shell, which is all for state, great parlour, drawing roome, and bed
Chambers, with their appendixes and backstaires, and a great staircase
with Chambers over for state. This is Entred into out of the Greate
hall, the middle of the house raiseing many stepps out of the Court, the
Entrance to which on Each side has buildings uniform for Coach house
stables, dairy out houses. The wing to the garden side is finish’d,
being their appartment, a pretty staircase that two Easily go up, light
from the Skye, jron railes and barristers, this from an arch jsle below
which goes to the kitchen, and hath a doore into this front Court and
into the gate backward, tho’ not visible on the garden side by y^e
disguise of painting. From this you ascend these staires to the dineing
roome which is Even to the great hall and must Enter from it when
ffinish’d. Out of this on the Right hand was M^r Paul Folie’s the
father’s studdy, long and Large, with back staires and a servants roome.
On the Left hand is a drawing roome, beyond his Ladys bed Chamber,
Closet and Servants roome, and next it are these staires of jron Railes
that goes up to the next stage, which is over this same wing and is the
appartment of the young M^r Folie and his Lady which now is the heir and
in possession.
There is their Chamber, her fine Closet, a servants roome and a Large
studdy for him; there is also two Large Chambers for strangers which
takes the whole wing over the dineing roome and studdy. There is also a
Little roome at the end for strangers opposite to M^r folie’s roome
which Lookes to the front. This dineing roome is what they Eate in
allwayes—is well wanscoated. There is a fountaine bason just faceing y^e
balcony doore that Leads to a terrass paved with black and white marble
and jron palisadoes; it has a long space and broad for walking and two
Enclosed on Each side by same jron work a step up or two these doores
from y^e Ladies Closet and the Studdy, out on them in the middle goes
the staires two wayes, all jron work, and meete halfe way and Joyne in
y^e next descent on Gravel, which is in a halfe moon and so design’d to
be Left in a Low place with a Cascade beneath, and the Gravell walke and
grass walks to go by it and beyond it in many rows of trees. The walled
Gardens and walks one below another. This terrass gives a vast prospect
of the Country, it being scituated on the ascent of a hill. Many rows of
trees in Meadows below it adds to its beauty being all within his own
Ground, he has a Great Estate and a Great parke up above it with Great
woods. The adornment of the Rooffe is flower potts and ffigures Globes
and Scallop shells, it will be noble Compleate buildings and deserves
10000^£ a yeare to Live Like it.
The offices are all below and Even with the first Entrance of the
ffront, what is ffinished is neate good wanscoate and tapistry, there is
two or three damaske beds and one velvet one what they had before, so
noe new ffurniture but y^e best wing noe doubt will be finely finish’d
and furnish’d. The prospect is Large and jndeed to view, at Least in the
summer and in Drye tyme, Herrifordshire is Like a fruitfull Garden. Near
Richards Castle is the Bone well a fountain alway full of ffish and
ffroggs bones tho’ often Cleared of them yet still renewed.
Ffrom Newhouse I Came over Maubern Hills which are Like the Alps and
have had much wet, the roads deep and difficult, to upton in Worcester
10 mile, where I pass the severn on a stone bridge—here it is not broad.
Thence Pursha 5 mile, thence Esham 4 and Weston 4, in Glocestershire to
my Cos’n Ffiennes, thence to Morton Hindmost up a vast stony high
hazardous hill of neare two mile Long ascending all the way from
Weston—this is in sight of Cambden—so to Morton, 6 miles down as steep a
stony hill 2 mile before I Came to my aunts. Thence to Broughton in
Oxfordshire passing by 4 shires stone—Warwick, Worcester, Glocester and
Oxfordshire, and so by Kingston; thence to oxford 18, Abbington where is
a fine town Hall for the Judges, two barrs and all seates aboute set on
stone pillars, the staires to the top is about 100, y^e Leads fine and
gives a Large prospect all about. There is halfe way the staires, a
place to go in and in Gallerys round Company may stand to heare Causes
all above the Judges heads—this is Buckinghamshire. Then to Newbery by
Market Hillsly its 16 mile, which town has been famous for whipps and
presents a King or Queen when they pass through it with one of great
price and also w^{th} a purse of Gold. From thence to Way hill through
Lanes and woods 14 mile, this is in Hampshire, thence to Newtontony in
Wiltshire 6 mile.
Some account of Epsome in Surrey about ten miles from London. Its on
Clay and Gravel, the waters are from Alum. The well is Large without
Bason or Pavement, on the bottom it is Covered over with timber and is
so darke you Can scarce Look down into it for which Cause I do dislike
it. Its not a quick spring and very often is dranke drye, and to make up
the defficiency the people do often carry water from Common wells to
fill this in a morning; this they have been found out in which makes the
water weake and of Little opperation unless you Can have it first from
the well before they Can have put in any other. The usual way of
drinking them is by turning them with a Little milk. There is a walk of
trees by it, but not very pleasant, there is a house built in which the
well is and that is paved with brick to walke in in the wet weather, and
where people have Carrawayes sweetemeates and tea &c, but it Look’d so
dark and unpleasant more Like a Dungeon, y^t I would not Chuse to drinke
it there, and most people drink it at home. There are severall good
Buildings in Epsome for Lodgings and good Gardens behind them for
walking. There is a good house of the L^d Bartlets in a parke at the End
of the town Looks very well. The Greatest pleasure of Emson is Either
Banstead Downs where is good aire and good rideing for Coaches and
horses, with a pleasant view of y^e Country, or Else Box Hill which is 6
or 7 miles off and is the Continuation of the Ridge of hills I mentiond
by Maidstone; its a Greate height and shows you a vast precipice down on
the farther side, and such a vast vale full of woods Enclosures and
Little towns. There is a very good river that runs by a Little town
Called Darken just at the foote of this hill, very famous for good
troutts and great store of ffish. On this hill the top is Cover’d with
box whence its name proceeds, and there is other wood but its all Cutt
in Long private walks very shady and pleasant, and this is a great
diversion to the Company and would be more ffrequented if nearer Epsom
town.
About 4 miles off is S^r Robert Howards house which I went to see, its a
Square building, the yards and offices very Convenient about it, and
severall Gardens walled in. All the windows are sashes and Large squares
of glass; I observ’d they are double sashes to make y^e house the
warmer, for it Stands pretty bleake. Its a brick building. You Enter a
hall which opens to the Garden, thence to two parlours, drawing-roomes
and good staires, there are abundance of Pictures, above is a Dineing
roome and drawing roome with very good tapistry-hangings of Long
standing. There is severall bed Chambers well ffurnish’d, good damaske
beds and hangings and window Curtaines of the same, and so neatly kept
ffolded up in Clean sheets pinn’d about the beds and hangings. There are
severall other good beds and ffurniture, one roome all y^e bed and
hangings are of a fine damaske made of worsted, it Lookes pretty and
with a Gloss Like Camlett, of a Light Ash Coullour. There are good
pictures of the family, S^r Robert’s Son and Lady, which was a Daughter
of the Newport house, with her Children in a very Large Picture. There
is fine adornements of Glass on the Chimney and fine marble Chimney
pieces, some Closets with Inlaid floores, its all very neate and fine
with the several Courts at the Entrance—this I thinke was all remarkable
at Epsome which is 14 mile to London.
Another Journey to Broughton in Oxfordshire, my brother’s, and now my
nephew’s house, the Lord Say and Seale. I went by Hartfordshire and
Bedford from London to Wane 20 mile, thence to Hitching 14 miles, most
in Lanes and deep Land, and in the winter bad Roads, but very good
Land—good Corn—the wheate Look’d well but Grass and Summer Corn wanted
rain, being a drye Spring. Thence to Bedford town 12 mile more, these
miles are Longer than those about London and much in Lanes and woods.
Bedford town is an old Building, its wash’d by the river Ouse which
Comes from Buckingham and is here Broader than in most places till it
reaches Yorke; its stored with very good ffish and those which have
Gardens on its brinke keepes sort of trunck or what they Call them. Its
a Receptacle of wood of a pretty size full of holes to Let the water in
and out, here they keep the ffish they Catch as pike, perch, tench &c,
so they have it readye for their use, this is of mighty advantage
Especially for the Publick houses—you see the ffish taken out ffresh for
supper or dinner. The river runns twineing about and runns into severall
notches of Ground w^{ch} is sett full of willows, and many Little boates
Chained to the sides belonging to y^e people of the town for their
diversion. It runns by a Ground which is made into a fine bowling-green,
its upon a hill and a pretty ascent from the river that is besett with
willows all round beneath; y^e bowling green is well kept with Seates
and summer houses in it for the use of the town and Country Gentlemen of
which many resort to it Especially the market dayes. At the Entrance of
the town you pass over y^e river on a bridge which has a gate on it and
some houses—this river beares barges. These truncks or Baskets which
keepes the ffish are ffastned by Chaines to the sides of the Banks in
each mans Garden. There is nothing worth notice in the town, severall
streetes small and old, the middle streete which runns from y^e Bridge
is pretty broad, wherein stands y^e market place and house which is on
severall stone pillars and raill’d in. There is above it roomes which
were design’d for the session and publick Buissness of the town by the
Lord Russell that built it, but his untimely death, being beheaded, put
a stop to its ffinishing. They now put it to noe use but spinning
haveing begun to set up the woollen worke, but its Just in its Infancy.
Over this is the top which is flatt rooff’d Leaded and railed in, from
thence you see the whole town and Country round.
There is a pretty many Gentry about y^e Country neare neighbours, and
many Live in the town tho’ in such old houses. From thence I went to
Asply 8 mile where the Earth turns wood into stone and had a piece of
it; it seemes its only one sort of wood the Aldertree which turns so,
and Lay or drive a paile or Stake into the ground there in seven yeares
its petrify’d into stone, from thence to Onborn w^{ch} is 3 mile more.
Here is the Duke of Bedfords house which I had seen before with the fine
Gardens and parke, so proceeded on to Dunstable 9 miles ffarther where I
staid and dined with my kinswoman my aunt Woolsley’s Daughter marry’d to
a D^r of physick D^r Marsh, and from thence I went to Laighton Buserd
and thence to Whinslow about 12 mile—this is in Buckinghamshire—thence
to Broughton in Oxfordshire 17 mile, and staid a weeke and then returned
through oxfford Citty 18 mile, and so to London 48 mile more.
_A FURTHER DESCRIPTION OF EPSOME HAMPTON COURT AND WINDSOR_
Epsom is 15 miles from London, there are great curiosityes in cut hedges
and trees almost before all doores. They have trees in rows which they
cut up smooth and about 3 or 4 yards up, they Lay frames of wood in
manner of a pent house, so plat the branches on it and cuts it smooth,
they leave the stem of the tree to run up and then cut it clear to the
top w^{ch} they cut in round heads. There are severall good houses in or
about Epsham—S^r Rob^t Howard’s w^{ch} I have described, M^r Wessell’s
now M^r Scawen’s. There is Lord Baltimores in Woodcut Green Encompass’d
w^{th} a wall at the Entrance—a breast wall with pallisadoes. Large
courts one within the other and a back way to y^e stables where is a
pretty horse pond. The house is old but Low, tho’ Large,—run over much
ground. In ffront 6 windows and in the top just in the middle 12
Chimneys in a row, being 3 and 3 below Joyning back to back and 3 and 3
above; the others Looke into a Court w^{ch} is built round. As I drove
by the side saw broad Chimneys on the End, and at due distance on the
side on both Ends y^e sides of a Court, w^{ch} is terminated in a
building on w^{ch} is a Lead w^{th} railes and Barristers.
That house which is now Lord Guilfords at another side of Epsham, Lookes
nobly in a fine parke pailed round. Severall rows of trees in the front
of all sorts—Lofty, and some cut Piramidy, some suger-Loafe or rather
Like a mushrom-top. The front has 6 Large windows and the doore w^{ch}
is glass, as many on the next story. You Enter by a Large Court w^{ch}
is on y^e Left side—Stable court; to the right into y^e Gardens, fore
right you Enter a broad tarass railed in and Paved with stone, you enter
a noble Lofty hall, plaine but neate, painted white. On y^e right is a
Little parlour, the lesser hall hung w^{th} armes, a butler’s office,
with bedchambers and Closets, thence goes y^e Kitchen, schullery,
bakeing room and Laundry into a Court of all y^e offices and the stable
yard. Out of y^e Little parlour goes into a pretty Chappel which has a
balcony closet looking into it for the Lord and Lady.
The Left hand of y^e hall Led into a great parlour w^{ch} runnes to the
End of the house, and makes the ffront, and short again into another
great parlour or dineing roome which makes y^e End ffront of the house;
this also opens into y^e staircase, it Leads on to a drawing roome,
Closet, bed Chamber, two dressing roomes, w^{ch} with y^e great
staircase makes up y^e ffront backward and the other End ffront, w^{ch}
Lookes into y^e stable yard and a garden railed in w^{th} a Large pond
or Cannall. The back ffront goes out into a garden or Court w^{th}
Gravel walks round, and a Crosse w^{ch} cuts it into 4 grassplotts where
are Brass statues, and Leads out through fine jron Carved gates as at
the ffront out into y^e highway. The right End ffront of y^e house is
into y^e Garden. Out of both of y^e great parlours and drawing roome two
Entrances at an Equal distance upon gravell walks. This garden is
gravell’d round. Y^e two middle walks run up to a double mount which
cast the garden into 3 Long grass walks w^{ch} also are very broad,
w^{th} 3 flower potts. There are two degrees of stepps to Each of these
Gravell walks, the first lands on a Gravell that turns in a 3 side
square w^{ch} shapes y^e upper mount. The Long gravell walke to y^e
right hand runns aCrosse the mount to a thicket that Enters y^e Grove
and is Lost. The other to the Left runns up the whole Length of y^e
grove up to white gates and open views into y^e parke. The two Ends of
the Little square gravel walke round the first mount terminates on the
right in same thicket or Grove, and has only for show a Carved frame as
a gate, w^{th} wood carv’d Like Cage work painted white, with an arch
Entrance in the middle for form sake, to make it Look uniforme to the
Like on y^e Left, w^{ch} Leads to a walk as Long as the Gravell up to
the wall, and is directly arbour. Like high trees, Cut up to the top and
with heads which close in an arch—in the middle is Long white seates.
There are two or three Lesser walks w^{ch} run across it to y^e right
into the Grove and Lost in the maze; to the Left to another Long walk
w^{ch} Leads to a Grotto and runs parralel w^{th} y^e gravel walke to
the top. You Enter a space paved and open arch’d round in seates like a
Court, and thence you Enter the Grotto, an arch Entirely dark but at the
Entrance it is so Large as 6 arched seates, and between carv’d stone
very fine of all sorts of flowers, ffigures, ffruites; y^e Pillars or
Peers pretty broad. this ran up to a sumerhouse at the End, w^{ch} is
grown over with greens cut smooth—windows all round. Below this is a
broad green walke w^{ch} begins at the first Garden and so continues
round w^{th} y^e wall quite to that broad Gravel walke, and is continued
by y^e wall quite Encompassing y^e maze, in w^{ch} are some slaunt cut
wayes, and it terminates in the other side of the first Garden just by a
garden railed in in which is a Large pond, square in nature of a
cannall, the bank green Cut fine, and borders for flowers and greens,
and a Breast wall to the first Garden, on w^{ch} are flower potts. On
the upper mount—all the grass and bank Even cut—Stands 4 flower potts
painted blew—Some red on y^e 3 divisions—y^e gravell Cut out as on the
Margin.
Ffrom the Hall you go to y^e staircase, there is also a doore out of the
second parlour. This is noble and Lofty all plain wanscoate, only y^e
halfe paces inlaid. The first is a window the whole height, 13 Large
pannells in Length, 5 in breadth, which Lookes into one of the Courts
where the pond is and stable yard. The next half pace Leads you on y^e
Left hand to the private appartment that is not so Lofty, over y^e Least
hall to an anty roome, thence a dineing roome, soe drawing roome 5 bed
Chambers and Closetts. The Last Closett goes into a balcony w^{ch} runs
aCross y^e middle of said Lofty window, and Looks into the staircase.
Out of y^e Eating or dineing roome goes a Closett for y^e Ladyes into
y^e Chappell w^{th} very good back staires up to y^e top roomes. Y^e
great staires continues up to the Gallery and turns in a long halfe
pace, w^{ch} Enters it at two doores in Equal distances. Its a Lofty,
Large as well as Long roome, noe painting or frettwork. At Each End are
severall handsome bedChambers and Closetts but none ffurnish’d, but y^e
private appartments has pladd Chamlet damaske neatly made up, not new,
Glass sconces, and over the Chimney, looking glasses in frames. The
parke is fine but not stock’d, w^{ch} when it is and house ffurnish’d
will be a noble seate.
There is another house of M^r Ruths who married Lady Dennagall is new
and neate. The Entrance is a space the breadth of y^e Court and ffront,
rail’d in and opening in y^e middle w^{th} sort of wicket, two such at
Each End w^{th} heavye Latches to pull up, and the gate swings both
wayes. There is a brick wall w^{th} peers and breast high, and jron
pallisadoes of a good breadth Each side the gate, w^{ch} is Carv’d jron
work w^{th} a Deer on the top of a Cypher, and an oaken tree Cut a top;
the two first peers are w^{th} Great flower potts, those on y^e Peeres
Each side y^e jron works Lesser flower potts. Beyond are the gates into
the coach yard, w^{ch} with the Stables is a neate Pile of Buildings by
it self. Just on y^e other side is such a building the kitchen and
offices and little Laundry Court, and here is the back Entrance through
a Long brick Entry open on one side, but a wall to y^e Court side and
house, and Enters into a passage that Leads to a little hall brick’t,
w^{th} roomes for y^e buttler and a batheing roome. By it is a Large
hall paved w^{th} stone and thence is one way into the garden. Under the
staires and balcony that descends from y^e dineing roome in y^e first
passage are staires w^{ch} brings to a space that turns up to the Great
staires and roomes.
The ffront Entrance is into a handsome Court, one Large paved walke in
the middle between Grass, the borders round of flowers, y^e wall w^{th}
trees. You ascend some stepps to a broad terrass paved and with a breast
wall sett w^{th} flower potts. This is the breadth of the house and at
Each End two Large white seates w^{th} arches over y^e head. You Enter a
step or two to this space w^{ch} Leads to y^e staires on y^e Left to a
little parlour wanscoted, white in veines and gold mouldings, a neat
Booffett ffurnish’d with Glasses and china for the table, a Cistern
below into which the water turn’d from a Cock, and a hole at bottom to
Let it out at pleasure. W^{th} in this roome was a Large Closet or
musick roome, on the other side was a dineing room w^{th} a balcony door
w^{ch} has staires to y^e garden in a round with half paces and jron
railes. Thence is a drawing roome, beyond that a Closet that comes out
into a little passage to the staircase, w^{ch} is Large and makes the
fourth part of the house; they are wanscoate varnish’d and the Lower
step or two Larger, and y^e other End is in a turn. The half paces are
strip’d, the wood put w^{th} y^e Graine, the next slip against the
Graine, w^{ch} makes it Looke pretty as if Inlaid.
You Enter one roome hung with Crosstitch in silks, the bed the same
Lined w^{th} yellow and white strip’d sattin, window Curtaines white
silk damaske w^{th} furbellows of Callicoe printed flowers, the Chaires
Crosstitch and two stooles of yellow Mohaire w^{th} Crostitch, true
Lower knotts in straps along and a Cross, an Elbow Chaire tentstitch;
Glasses over all y^e Chimneys and Marble pieces. The windows in all the
roomes had Cusheons. The next roome was Lady Dennagalls Chamber and
Closet hung w^{th} very rich tapistry, the bed Crimson damaske Lined
w^{th} white Jndia sattin, w^{th} Gold and Crimson flowers printed; the
Chaires, one red damaske, the other Crostitch and tentstitch very Rich,
soe round the roome. The Closet, Green damaske Chaires, and many fine
pictures under Glasses, of tentstitch sattin stitch Gumm and strawwork,
also jndia flowers birds &c. The roome over the Little parlour was
M^{rs} Ruths, a pladd bed Lined w^{th} Jndian Callicoe, and an Jndia
Carpet on the bed—w^{th} in was her Closet. Over this are good Garretts
and staires to the Leads w^{ch} shews you all about the town.