town where I Lay, but their houses are like Barnes up to y^e top of y^e
house. Here was a pretty good dineing room and Chamber within it and
very neate Country women. My Landlady brought me one of y^e west Country
tarts this was y^e first I met w^{th} though. I had asked for them in
many places in Sommerset and Devonshire; its an apple pye w^{th} a
Custard all on the top, its y^e most acceptable entertainment y^t Could
be made me. They scald their Creame and milk in most parts of those
Countrys and so its a sort of Clouted Creame as we Call it, w^{th} a
Little sugar and soe put on y^e top of y^e apple Pye. I was much pleased
w^{th} my supper tho’ not with the Custome of the Country w^{ch} is a
universall smoaking, both men women and children have all their pipes of
tobacco in their mouths and soe sit round the fire smoaking w^{ch} was
not delightfull to me when I went down to talke w^{th} my Landlady for
jnformation of any matter and Customs amongst them. I must say they are
as Comely sort of women as I have seen any where tho’ in ordinary
dress—good black Eyes and Crafty enough and very neate. Halfe a mile
from hence they blow their tin w^{ch} went to see. They take y^e ore and
pound it in a stamping mill w^{ch} resembles the paper mills, and when
its fine as y^e finest sand—some of w^{ch} I saw and took—this they
fling into a ffurnace and w^{th} it Coale to make the fire. So it burns
together and makes a violent heate and fierce flame, the mettle by y^e
fire being separated from y^e Coale and its own Drosse, being heavy
falls down to a trench made to receive it at y^e furnace hole below.
This Liquid mettle I saw them shovel up w^{th} an jron shovel and soe
pour it into molds in w^{ch} it Cooles and soe they take it thence in
sort of wedges or piggs I think they Call them, its a fine mettle in its
first melting—Looks Like silver—I had a piece poured out and made Cold
for to take w^{th} me. Y^e oare as its just dug Lookes Like y^e
thunderstones, a greenish hue full of pendust this seemes to Containe
its full description, y^e shineing part is white. I went a mile farther
on y^e hills and soe Came where they were digging in the tinn mines,
there was at Least 20 mines all in sight w^{ch} employs a Great many
people at work almost night and day, but Constantly all and Every day
jncluding the Lords day w^{ch} they are forced to prevent their mines
being overflowed w^{th} water. More than 1000 men are taken up about
them, few mines but had then almost 20 men and boys attending it either
down in y^e mines digging and Carrying y^e oare to the Little Bucket
w^{ch} Conveys it up, or Else others are Draineing the water and Looking
to y^e Engines y^t are draineing it, and those above are attending y^e
drawing up the oare in a sort of windlass as is to a Well. Two men keeps
turning bringing up one and Letting down another, they are much Like the
Leather Buckets they use in London to put out fire, w^{ch} hang up in
Churches and Great mens halls. They have a Great Labour and Great
expence to draine the mines of the water w^{th} mills that horses turn,
and now they have y^e mills or water Engines that are turned by the
water w^{ch} is Convey’d on frames of timber and truncks to hold y^e
water, w^{ch} falls down on y^e wheeles as an over shott mill, and these
are y^e sort that turns y^e water into y^e severall towns I have seen
about London, Darby and Exeter and many places more. They do five tymes
more good than the mills they use to turn w^{th} horses, but then they
are much more Chargeable. Those mines do require a great deale of timber
to support them and to make all those engines and mills, w^{ch} makes
fewell very scarce here; they burn mostly turffs w^{ch} is an unpleasant
smell, it makes one smell as if smoaked Like Bacon. This ore as said is
made fine powder in a Stamping Mill w^{ch} is Like y^e paper mills, only
these are pounded drye and noe water Let into them as is to y^e Raggs,
to work them into a paste. Ye mills are all turned w^{th} a Little
Streame or Channell of water you may step over, jndeed they have noe
other mills but such in all the Country; I saw not a windmill all over
Cornwall or Devonshire tho’ they have wind and hills Enough, and it may
be its too Bleake for them. In the tinn mines there is stone Dug out and
a sort of spar something Like what I have seen in the Lead mines at
Darbyshire but it seemed more sollid and hard, it shines and Lookes Like
mother of pearle. They alsoe digg out stones as Cleer as Christal w^{ch}
is Called Cornish Diamonds. I saw one as bigg as my two ffists, very
Cleer and Like some pieces of Chrystal my father brought from y^e Alps
In Italy w^{ch} I have by me. I got one of those pieces of their Cornish
Diamonds as Long as halfe my finger w^{ch} had three or four flatt sides
w^{th} Edges, the top was sharpe and so hard as it would Cut a Letter on
glass. Thence I went to —— 6 miles good way, and passed by 100 mines
some on which they were at work, others that were lost by y^e waters
overwhelming them. I crossed y^e water on a Long stone bridge and so
through dirty stony Lanes 3 mile and then I Came into a broad Coach Rode
which I have not seen since I Left Exeter, so I went 3 mile more to M^r
Boscawens—Trygothy—a Relation of mine. His house stands on a high hill
in the middle of a parke with severall Rows of trees with woods beyond
it. Y^e house is built all of white stone like the Rough Coarse Marble
and Cover’d w^{th} slate. They use much Lime in their Cement w^{ch}
makes both walls and Cover Look very white. There is a Court walled
round w^{th} open Iron gates and barrs. The Entrance is up a few stone
steps into a Large high hall and so to a passage that Leads foreright up
a good stair Case. On y^e Right side is a Large Common parlour for
Constant Eating in, from whence goes a Little roome for smoaking y^t has
a back way into the kitchin, and on the Left hand is a Great parlour and
drawing roome—wanscoated all very well but plaine. Y^e Great Parlour is
Cedar, out of y^t is the Drawing-roome which is hung with pictures of
the family, that goes into y^e garden w^{ch} has Gravell walks round and
across, but y^e squares are full of goosebery and shrub-trees and Looks
more Like a Kitchen garden as Lady Mary Boscawen told me, out of w^{ch}
is another Garden and orchard which is something Like a Grove, Green
walks w^{th} rows of fruit trees. Its Capable of being a fine place
w^{th} some Charge, the roomes above are new modell’d, 3 roomes
wanscoated and hung as y^e new way is, and y^e beds made up well, one
red damaske, another Green, another wrought some of y^e Ladyes own work
and well made up, w^{ch} is her own Roome w^{th} a dressing roome by it.
There is a dressing roome and a roome for a servant just by y^e best
Chamber. There are two other good roomes unalter’d w^{th} old hangings
to y^e bottom on wrought work of y^e first Ladyes. Lady Margets work,
y^t was my Cos’n German, within that roome was a servants roome and back
staires, there was just such another apartment on y^e other side.
Between all from the staires a broad passage Leads to a Balcony over the
Entrance w^{ch} Look’d very pleasantly over the parke but in the Cupulo
on y^e Leads I Could see a vast way, at Least 20 mile round; for this
house stands very high to y^e Land side Eastward, and the south was the
Great Ocean w^{ch} runns into Falmouth thats y^e best harbour for shipps
in that road. 6 mile from this place westward was to Truro and the north
to the hills full of Copper mines. Here I was very Civily Entertained:
from thence I returned back Intending not to goe to y^e Lands End w^{ch}
was 30 miles farther for feare of y^e raines that fell in the night
w^{ch} made me doubt what travelling I should have; soe to S^t Culumb I
went, a pretty Long 12 mile. Here I met with many Rowes of Elm trees
w^{ch} I have not found in any Country Except Wiltshire; these were
mostly soe, tho’ there were alsoe ashes and oakes. Y^e hedges were
Hazelthorne and Holly but to see soe many good rowes of trees on y^e
road is surprising and Looks Like the Entrance to some Gentlemans house,
and I cannot tell but some of them were soe tho’ a mile off from y^e
house.
The next day finding it faire weather on y^e Change of y^e moone, I
alter’d my Resolution and soe went for y^e Lands End by Redruth 18
miles, mostly over heath and Downs w^{ch} was very bleake and full of
mines.
Here I Came by the Copper mines w^{ch} have the same order in the
digging and draining, tho’ here it seemes Dryer and I believe not quite
soe annoy’d w^{th} water. The ore is something as the tinn only this
Looks blackish, or rather a purple Colour, and y^e glistering part is
yellow as y^e other was white. They do not melt it here but ship it off
to Bristol by y^e North Sea w^{ch} I Rode in sight of, and is not above
2 or 3 Mile from hence, which supplyes them with Coales for their fewell
at Easyer rates than the other side Plymouth and the South Sea, because
since y^e warre they Could not Double y^e poynt at y^e Lands End, being
so neer Ffrance y^e pirats or Privateers met them. Indeed at S^t Jves
they do melt a Little but nothing that is Considerable—that is 10 mile
from Redruth w^{ch} is a Little market town. Here they Carry all their
things on horses backs soe that of a market day w^{ch} was Fryday you
see a great number of horses Little of size w^{ch} they Call Cornish
Canelys. They are well made and strong and will trip along as Light on
the stony road without injury to themselves, where as my horses went so
heavy that they wore their shoes immediately thinn and off, but here I
met with a very good smith that shooed y^e horses as well as they do in
London, and that is not Common in the Country, but here I found it soe,
and at a place in Westmoreland by y^e ffells a smith made good shoes and
set them on very well. From Redruth I went to Pensands 15 mile and
passed by y^e ruines of Great ffortification or Castle on a high hill
about 3 mile from Redruth and passed to Hailes and soe went by y^e sea
side a great way, it being spring tide it was a full sea. Just over
against it there was a Church w^{ch} was almost sunck into y^e sands
being a very sandy place. So I went up pretty high hills and over some
heath or Common, on w^{ch} a Great storme of haile and raine met me and
drove fiercely on me but y^e wind soone dry’d my Dust Coate. Here I Came
by a very good Grove of trees w^{ch} I thought was by some Gentlemans
house but found it some ffarmers.
The people here are very ill Guides and know but Little from home, only
to some market town they frequent, but will be very solicitous to know
where you goe and how farre and from whence you Came and where is y^e
abode. Then I Came in sight of y^e hill in Cornwall Called y^e Mount,
its on a Rock in the sea w^{ch} at y^e flowing tyde is an jsland, but at
Low water one Can goe over y^e sands almost just to it, its but a Little
market town w^{ch} is about 2 mile from Panzants, and you may walke or
Ride to it all on y^e sands when y^e tyde’s out. Its a ffine Rock and
very high—severall Little houses for fisher men—in y^e sides of it just
by the water. At y^e top is a pretty good house where the Govenour Lives
sometymes,—S^r —— Hook his name is—there is a tower on the top on w^{ch}
is a fflag. There is a Chaire or throne on the top from whence they Can
discover a Great way at sea and here they put up Lights to direct
shipps.
Pensands is Rightly named being all sands about it—it Lies just as a
shore to y^e maine South ocean w^{ch} Comes from y^e Lizard and being on
y^e side of a hill w^{th} a high hill all round y^e side to y^e Landward
it Lookes soe snugg and warme, and truely it needs shelter haveing the
sea on y^e other side and Little or no ffewell—turff and ffurse and
fferne. They have Little or noe wood and noe Coale w^{ch} differences it
from Darbyshire, otherwise this and to y^e Land’s End is stone and
barren as Darbyshire. I was surprised to ffind my supper boyling on a
fire allwayes supply’d w^{th} a bush of ffurse and y^t to be y^e only
ffewell to dress a joynt of meat and broth, and told them they Could not
roast me anything, but they have a Little wood for such occasions but
its scarce and dear w^{ch} is a strange thing y^t y^e shipps should not
supply them. They told me it must all be brought round the Lands End and
since y^e warre they Could not have it. This town is two parishes, one
Church in y^e town and a Little Chappell and another Church belonging to
y^e other parish w^{ch} is a mile distance. There is alsoe a good
meeteing place.
There is a good Key and a good Harbour for y^e shipps to Ride, by meanes
of y^e point of Land w^{ch} runns into y^e Sea in a neck or Compass
w^{ch} shelters it from y^e maine and answers the Lizard point w^{ch}
you see very plaine—a point of Land Looks Like a Double hill one above
y^e other that runns a good way into y^e sea. Y^e Lands End is 10 mile
ffarther, pretty steep and narrow Lanes, but its not shelter’d w^{th}
trees or hedg Rows this being rather desart and Like y^e peake Country
in Darbyshire, dry stone walls, and y^e hills full of stones, but it is
in most places better Land and yeilds good Corne, both wheate Barley and
oates and some Rhye. About 2 mile from the Lands End I Came in sight of
y^e maine ocean on both sides, the south and north sea and soe Rode in
its view till I saw them joyn’d at y^e poynt, and saw the jsland of Sily
w^{ch} is 7 Leagues off y^e Lands End. They tell me that in a Cleer day
those in the Island Can discern the people in the maine as they goe up
y^e hill to Church, they Can Describe their Clothes. This Church and
Little parish w^{ch} is Called Church town is about a mile from the
poynt. The houses are but poor Cottages Like Barns to Look on, much Like
those in Scotland, but to doe my own Country its right y^e Inside of
their Little Cottages are Clean and plaister’d and such as you might
Comfortably Eate and drink in, and for Curiosity sake I dranck there and
met w^{th} very good bottled ale. The Lands End terminates in a poynt or
Peak of Great Rocks w^{ch} runs a good way into y^e sea, I Clamber’d
over them as farre as safety permitted me, there are abundance of Rocks
and Sholes of stones stands up in the sea a mile off some here and
there, some quite to y^e shore, w^{ch} they name by severall names of
Knights and Ladies Roled up in mantles from some old tradition or
ffiction—Y^e poets advance description of y^e amours of some Great
persons; but these many Rocks and Stones w^{ch} Lookes Like y^e Needles
in y^e Isle of Wight makes it hazardous for shipps to double y^e poynt
Especially in stormy weather. Here at y^e Lands end they are but a
Little way off of France, 2 dayes saile at farthest Convey them to Hauve
de Grace in France, but y^e peace being but newly entred into w^{th} y^e
Ffrench I was not willing to venture at Least by myself into a fforreign
Kingdom, and being then at y^e End of y^e Land, my horses Leggs Could
not Carry me through y^e deep, and so return’d againe to Pensands 10
mile more, and soe Came in view of both y^e seas and saw y^e Lizard
point and Pensands and y^e Mount in Cornwall w^{ch} Looked very fine in
y^e broad day, the sunn shineing on y^e rocke in y^e sea. Then I
continued my returne from Pensands to Hailing and now y^e tyde was down
and so much Land appeared w^{ch} lay under water before, and I might
have forded quite a crosse, many y^t know y^e country do, but I tooke
y^e safer way round by y^e bridge. Here is abundance of very good Fish
tho’ they are so ill supply’d at Pensands because they carry it all up
y^e Country East and Southward. This is an arme of y^e North Sea w^{ch}
runs in a greate way into y^e Land, its a Large Bay when y^e sea comes
in and upon y^e next hill I ascended from it could discover it more
plaine to be a deep water and y^e supply of y^e maine ocean. Just by
here lay some ships and I perceived as I went, there being a Storme, it
seemed very tempestious and is a hazardous place in the high tides; so I
came to Redruth. I perceive they are very bleake in these Countryes
especially to this North Ocean and y^e winds so troublesome they are
forced to spin straw and so make a caul or net work to lay over their
thatch on their Ricks and out houses, w^{th} waites of Stones round to
defend y^e thatch from being blown away by y^e greate winds, not but
they have a better way of thatching their Houses w^{th} Reeds and so
close y^t when its well done will last twenty yeares, but what I mention
of braces or bands of straw is on their Rickes w^{ch} only is to hold a
yeare. These places as in some other parts, indeed all over Cornwall and
Devonshire, they have their carryages on horses backes, this being y^e
time of harvest, tho’ later in y^e yeare than usuall being y^e middle of
septemb^r, but I had y^e advantage of seeing their harvest bringing in,
w^{ch} is on a horse’s backe w^{th} sort of crookes of wood like yokes
on either side—two or three on a side stands up in w^{ch} they stow y^e
corne and so tie it w^{th} cords, but they cannot so equally poise it
but y^e going of y^e horse is like to cast it down sometimes on y^e one
side and sometimes on y^e other, for they load them from y^e neck to y^e
taile and pretty high and are forced to support it w^{th} their hands,
so to a horse they have two people, and the women leads and supports
them as well as y^e men and goe through thick and thinn—sometymes I have
met with half a score horses thus Loaded—they are Indeed but Little
horses their Canelles as they Call them, and soe may not be able to draw
a Cart, otherwise I am sure 3 or 4 horses might draw 3 tymes as much as
4 horses does Carry and where it is open Ground and roads broad, w^{ch}
in some places here it was, I wondred at their Labour in this kind, for
the men and the women themselves toiled Like their horses, but the
Common observation of Custom being as a second nature people are very
hardly Convinc’d or brought off from, tho’ never soe jnconvenient.
From Redruth I went to Truro 8 mile, w^{ch} is a pretty Little town and
seaport and formerly was Esteemed the best town in Cornwall, now is the
second next Lanstone. Its just by y^e Copper and tinn mines and Lies
down in a bottom, pretty steep ascent as most of the towns in these
Countrys, that you would be afraid of tumbling w^{th} nose and head
foremost. Ye town is built of stone—a good pretty Church built all stone
and Carv’d on y^e outside, it stands in y^e middle of y^e town, and just
by there is a market house on stone pillars and hall on y^e top; there
is alsoe a pretty good key. This was formerly a great tradeing town and
flourish’d in all things, but now as there is in all places their Rise
and period soe this, w^{ch} is become a Ruinated disregarded place. Here
is a very good meeteing but I was hindred by y^e raine y^e Lords day
Else should have Come to hearing, and so was forced to stay where I
Could hear but one Sermon at y^e Church, but by it saw y^e fashion of
y^e Country being obliged to go a mile to y^e parish Church over some
Grounds w^{ch} are divided by such stiles and bridges uncommon, and I
never saw any such before; they are severall stones fixed aCross and so
are Like a Grate or Large Steps over a Ditch that is full of mudd or
water, and over this just in the middle is a Great stone fixed side
wayes w^{ch} is the style to be Clambered over. These I find are the
ffences and Guards of their Grounds one from another, and Indeed they
are very troublesome and dangerous for strangers and Children. I heard a
pretty good Sermon but that w^{ch} was my Greatest pleasure was the good
Landlady I had, she was but an ordinary plaine woman but she was
understanding in the best things as most,—y^e Experience of reall
religion and her quiet submision and self Resignation to y^e will of God
in all things, and especially in y^e placeing her in a remoteness to y^e
best advantages of hearing, and being in such a publick Employment
w^{ch} she desired and aimed at y^e discharging soe as to adorne y^e
Gospel of her Lord and Saviour, and the Care of her Children. Indeed I
was much pleased and Edify’d by her Conversation and y^e pitch of Soul
Resignation to y^e will of God and thankfulness that God Enabled and
owned her there in, was an attainment few reach y^t have greater
advantages of Learning and knowing y^e mind of God. But this plainly Led
me to see that as God himself teacheth soe as none teacheth Like him,
soe he Can Discover himself to those immediately y^t have not the
opportunity of seeing him in his sanctuary, and therefore to him we must
address for help in this or any Duty he Calls us to, both in the use of
what meanes he appoynts as alsoe for success and blessing on it.
From Truro w^{ch} is 9 mile from Ffallmouth and 4 mile from Trygolny
w^{ch} was y^e place I was at before w^{th} my Relation, that would have
Engaged my stay with them a few dayes or weekes to have given me the
diversion of the Country, and to have heard the Cornish nightingales as
they Call them, the Cornish Chough—a sort of Jackdaw if I mistake not—a
Little black bird w^{ch} makes them a visit about Michaelmas and gives
them y^e diversion of the notes w^{ch} is a Rough sort of musick not
unlike y^e Bird I take them for, so I believe they by way of jest put on
the Cornish Gentlemen by Calling them nightingales; but the season of
the year enclined to raine and y^e dayes declineing I was affraid to
delay my Return, and these parts not abounding w^{th} much accomodation
for horses, theirs being a hard sort of Cattle and Live much on Grass or
ffurses of w^{ch} they have y^e most, and it will make them very ffatt
being Little hardy horses, and as they jest on themselves do not Love
the taste of oates and hay, because they never permit them to know the
taste of it. But my horses Could not Live so, Especially on journeys, of
w^{ch} I had given them a pretty exercise, and their new oates and hay
suited not their stomach. I Could get noe Beanes for them till I Came
back to S^t Columbe againe w^{ch} from Truro by S^t Mitchel was 12 miles
mostly Lanes and Long miles. As I observed before I saw noe windmills
all these Countrys over, they have only the mills w^{ch} are overshott
and a Little rivulet of water you may step over turns them, w^{ch} are
the mills for Grinding their Corn and their ore or what Else. From S^t
Columbe I went to Way bridge 6 Long miles. There was a river w^{ch} was
flowed up by y^e tyde a Greate way up into the Land, it Came from y^e
north sea, it was broad, y^e bridge had 17 arches.
Thence to Comblefford over steep hills 9 mile more, some of this way was
over Commons of Black moorish Ground full of Sloughs. The Lanes are
deffended w^{th} bancks wherein are stones, some Great rocks, others
slaty stones, such as they use for tileing. Comblefford was a Little
market town but it was very indifferent accomodations, but the raines
y^t night and next morning made me take up there till about 10 oClock in
the morning; it then made a shew of Cleering up made me willing to seek
a better Lodging. 2 mile from this place is a Large standing water
Called Dosenmere poole in a Black moorish Ground and is fed by no rivers
except the Little rivulets from some high hills yet seemes allwayes full
w^{th} out Diminution and flows w^{th} y^e wind and is stored with good
ffish, and people Living near it take y^e pleasure in a boate to goe
about it. There is alsoe good wildfowle about it; it seemes so be such a
water as the mer at Whitlesome in Huntingtonshire by Stilton its fresh
water and what supply it has must be the rivulets y^e must Come from y^e
south sea being that wayward towards Plymouth. As I travelled I Came in
sight of a great mountaine esteemed the second highest hill in England
supposeing y^e account Black Combe in Cumberland y^e first, but really I
have seen soe many Great and high hills I Cannot attribute preeminence
to Either of these tho’ this did Look very Great and tall, but I thinke
its better said the highest hill in each County.
I travelled 4 pretty Long miles much in Lanes and then Came into a
Common where I Cross’d the Great roads w^{ch} on the Right hand Leads a
way to Plymouth and the south sea, the Left hand to Bastable and the
north sea, w^{ch} Conveys the stone or rather marble w^{ch} they take
from hence at Bole, remarkable Quarrys for a Black stone, Exceeding hard
and Glossy Like marble, very Dureable for pavements. This they send to
all parts in tyme of peace and London takes off much of it.
Here I Rode over a Common or Down 4 mile Long in sight of y^e North sea
and saw Hartly poynt which is the Earle of Baths just by his fine house
Called Stow, his fine stables of horses, and Gardens. There I discern’d
the Poynt very plaine and just by I saw the jsle of Lundy which formerly
belonged to my Grandfather William Lord viscount Say and Seale, w^{ch}
does abound with ffish and Rabbets and all sorts of ffowles, one bird
y^t Lives partly in the water and partly out and so may be Called an
amphibious Creature, its true that one foote is Like a turky the other a
gooses foote; it Lays its Egg in a place the Sun shines on and sets it
so exactly upright on the small End and there it remaines till taken up
and all the art and skill of persons Cannot set it up soe againe to
abide. Here I met with some showers w^{ch} by fitts or storms held
me,—to Lanston 4 mile more, these 12 mile from Cambleford was not Little
ones and what with the wet and Dirty Lanes in many places I made it a
tedious journey. I Could see none of the town till just I was as you may
say ready to tumble into it, there being a vast steep to descend to when
the town seemed in a bottom yet I was forced to ascend a pretty good
hill into the place. Lanston is the chief town in Cornwall where the
assizes are kept, I should have remarked at y^e Lands End that Pensands
was the Last Corporation in England, soe this is one of y^e Last Great
towns tho’ noe Citty, for Cornwall is in y^e Diocese of Devonshire
w^{ch} is Exeter.