in. From y^e hall on the left hand Enters into a Large roome w^{th}
a billiard table, from thence into a Large parlour and 2
drawing-roomes,—there was a good dineing roome. Above, y^e drawing
Roome had Company in it, y^e Earle having just marry’d his Eldest
daughter Lady Mary to one M^r Cooke a Gentleman of a good Estate
hard by, so there was Company to wishe her joy; but I was in
severall bed Chambers, one had a Crimson damaske bed, y^e other
Crimson velvet set upon halfe paces: this best was y^e bride Chamber
w^{ch} used to be Call’d y^e Silver roome where y^e stands, table,
and fire utensills were all massy silver, but when plaite was in
nomination to pay a tax, y^e Earle of Chesterfield sold it all and
y^e plaite of y^e house, so that when y^e table was spread I saw
only spoones, salts and forks and y^e side board plaite, noe plaites
or dishes and but few salvers. Ye pictures was all burnt by a fire
and so there are only bare walls. One Roome was painted over
head—y^e others frettwork, but y^t w^{ch} is most admired, and
justly so to be by all persons, and Excite their Curiosity to Come
and see is y^e gardens and waterworks. Out of y^e Billiard Roome y^e
first was with Gravell walks, and a large fountaine in the middle
with flower potts and Greens set Round y^e Brimm of y^e fountaines
that are paved w^{th} stone. You see but one garden at a tyme. The
Pipes in y^e fountaines play very finely, some of a great height,
some fflushes y^e water about; then you Come to a descent of
severall steps w^{ch} discovers anoth^r fine garden w^{th}
fountaines playing through pipes besett on y^e branches w^{th} all
sort of Greens and flower trees, dwarfe honeysuckles in a Round tuff
growing upright, and all sorts of flower trees and greens finely
Cutt and Exactly kept. In one garden there are 3 fountaines wherein
stands great statues; Each side on their pedistalls is a dial one
for y^e Sun y^e other a Clock w^{ch} by y^e water worke is moved and
strikes y^e hours, and Chimes y^e quarters, and when they please
play Lilibolaro on y^e Chimes: all this I heard when I was there. On
one side of this garden is a half Compass w^{th} a breast wall on
w^{ch} are high jron pallisadoes divided with severall Pillars,
stone with Images on their tops about 2 yards distance; this opens
to view y^e parke and a sort of Cannall or pond w^{ch} is in it of a
good bigness. Beyond this Garden is a Row of orange and Lemon trees
set in y^e ground, of a man’s height and pretty big, full of flowers
and some Large fruit almost Ripe: this has a pent house over it
w^{ch} is Cover’d up very Close in the winter. This Leads on to a
great wilderness and Just by it is another Square w^{th} a fountaine
whose brim is deck’d with flower potts full of flowers and all sorts
of greens; on Either side is 2 or 3 rows of orange and Lemon trees
in boxes one below another in growth.
Just against this is a wall Cover’d over w^{th} Lawrell finely Cutt, and
also in y^e middle is an arch, and on Either side stone staires ascends
it w^{ch} terminate in a sort of half pace all Cover’d over w^{th}
Lawrell, and this Enters a doore into another Garden through a little
garden house. This also has a fine fountaine Like y^e others, only as
most of y^e others was green walks this was Gravell, so was the garden
on y^e Right side of y^e house. Ye front Garden w^{ch} has y^e Largest
fountaine has also a fine Green house and very fine flowers, and y^e
beds and borders are Cut in severall formes; y^e Greens are very fine
and y^e hedges Cutt in severall formes; there was one tree not much
unlike y^e Cyprus green but y^e branches were more spread and of a
Little yellower green, y^e Barke of y^e Limbs yellow—it was y^e Cedar of
Lebonus. There was also fine strip’d stocks, Double Like a Rose. There
was a Large Ewe tree in y^e middle of one Garden Cut in forms, fine
ffirrs and Cyprus and ffilleroy of w^{ch} some was striped Like silver,
white, others yellow Like Gold, w^{ch} gave them their different names,
and fine gilded and striped Hollys.
There was one green in a pott Call’d S^t John y^e baptists herb, it was
full of many Leaves and y^e Coullour not much unlike the green they Call
Solomons Seale but longer and bigger Leaves; its an annual plant. Here
just by y^e wilderness is y^e tulip tree w^{ch} runns up of a great
height and y^e flower is on y^e top; it flowers in August. There is a
great avery of Birds w^{ch} stands Like a sumer house open; there is
also many Close averys of Birds and severall Green shady walks and Close
arbours. There are very fine woodbines grows like tuffs all in flower
Red and white. There is some of y^e fountaines that have figures in them
that throws up water a greate height—a Cascade of water.
Then I returned into y^e hall and so into a Coole roome in w^{ch} was a
fountaine where I dranke a Glass of wine and so proceeded. This was 3
miles from Chartry, thence through a fine visto or Glide of trees w^{ch}
runs along y^e parke and so to Burton on y^e Trent 2 long miles. This is
a pretty large town; here is a very long stone bridge over y^e Trent:
the Streetes are very well pitch’d and some very broad.
Thence over Nedwood fforest 6 mile, and thence to Yoxsell, w^{ch} is 6
mile more to Woolsley and they are all Long miles; then I went againe to
Stafford town 5 miles and from thence to Jnstree M^r Thetwins—its bad
way. You go by S^t Thomas’s w^{ch} was some old abbey—its still a good
house.
Going along y^e side of y^e hill gives a great view of y^e Country that
is mostly jnclosures we passed between two parkes, y^e one is Lord
astons, and goe in sight of Tixall hall w^{ch} is a good house and Looks
handsomely of stone building: the other was M^r Thetwins parke w^{ch}
has fine Rows of trees—ffirrs Scots and Noroway and y^e picanther—the
ffront lookes nobly. Noe flatt Roofed houses in this Country but much in
windows. Two Large bow windows on Each side runns up y^e whole building,
y^e middle the same besides much flatt window between, so that y^e whole
is Little besides window. Its built brick and stone, the part to y^e
garden ward is new building of y^e new fashion and sash windows. Y^e
Court is 2 or 5 stepps up w^{th} open jron pallasadoes y^e breadth of
y^e house and a broad paved walk w^{ch} Leads up to y^e doore in the
Middle. Y^e visto is quite through y^e house to y^e gardens and through
a long walke of trees of a mile through the parke to a Lodge or summer
house at y^e End, w^{ch} Lookes very finely, it being a Riseing ground
up to y^e parke. There is a Crosse paved walke in y^e Court w^{ch} Leads
to a little house on Each End like summer houses, w^{th} towers and
balls on y^e top; y^e one Leads through to y^e Churchyard w^{ch} is
planted w^{th} Rows of Ewe trees very uniforme and Cutt neately. Y^e
Church is new and very handsome, good frettworke on y^e top, the wood
worke well Carv’d, its seates good wanscoate and with locks.
In the Chancell are two monuments of Marble, one all white, y^e other
white with a border Black, and with white pillars; the middle at y^e
bottom is alabaster. The pillars of y^e Church is made of y^e Red stone
w^{ch} is plenty in this Country and they are all polished over; the
ffront is all white marble; stem y^e same veined bleu, y^e foot is
black, y^e Cover is wood Carv’d very well. The porch is very high on
w^{ch} is a dyal, it almost breakes ones neck to Looke up at it for y^t
y^e tower in w^{ch} are 5 bells. There is just against this a garden.
On y^e other side the dwelling house w^{ch} is severall steps up
it—Gravell walkes full of flowers and greens and a box hedge Cut finely
with Little trees, some Cut round, and another hedge of strip’d holly
Cut Even and some of Lawrell Cut Even Likewise. Out of this you go into
a flower garden divided into knotts, in which were 14 Cyprus trees
w^{ch} were grown up very tall some of them, and kept Cutt Close in four
squares down to y^e bottom. Towards y^e top they Enclined to a point or
spire. Thence into another garden w^{th} gravell walkes, and so into a
summer house through w^{ch} you Enter a good Bowling green, w^{ch} also
goes out of another garden, w^{ch} takes in y^e whole breadth of y^e
house and is full of flowers and greens and dwarfe trees and little
borders of Severall sorts of greens Cut Even and Close, of tyme,
severall sorts and of savin w^{ch} is another Coullour, and of Lavender
Cotten another Coullour, and Rosemary and severall others. From this
Bowling green in y^e Middle you descend 18 stepps in a Demi Circle
inwards halfe way, then y^e stones are set round and so y^e half pace
is, and y^e other stepps are Round turned outward, and y^e Lowest much
y^e Largest as was y^e uppermost of y^e first. This leads to a place
designed for ponds to keep ffish in but this place will not admitt of
any water works altho’ its a deep Dirty Country. They neither have good
gravell or marle to make a pond secure to hold water, nor are they near
Enough y^e springs, but are forced to be supply’d w^{th} water by pipes
from y^e River trent that is a mile off, and yet the whole place seems a
quage, and when one is descended y^e hill this seemes to be the only
thing wanting, for just by the Bowling-green is a very fine wilderness
with many Large walks of a great Length full of all sorts of trees,
scycamores, willows, Hazel, Chesnutts, walnuts, set very thicke and so
shorn smooth to y^e top w^{ch} is left as a tuff or Crown—they are very
Lofty in growth w^{ch} makes y^e Length of a walke Look Nobly. There is
also a Row on y^e outside of firrs round Every grove 2 yards or 3
distant—some silver ffirrs—some Norroway—some Scotts and pine trees:
these hold their beauty round y^e groves in y^e winter when y^e others
Cast their Leaves. This was from Stafford 3 mile and to Woolsley was 3
mile more through narrow stoney Lanes through great Heywood.
Att Jnstree, M^r Shetwins, I saw a fine pomegranate tree as tall as
myself, the Leafe is a long slender Leafe of a yellowish green Edged
w^{th} red and feeles pretty thicke, y^e Blossom is white and very
double. There was a terrass walke in one of y^e Gardens that gave y^e
full prospect of y^e Country a great way about—its a deep Country—you
are going these 3 miles to Woolsley a great while. There was at S^r
Charles Woolsly’s some of y^e best good land and some of y^e worst, as
is y^e Kankwood, but here y^e Roads are pretty good and hard w^{ch}
makes it pleasant. There is much fine fruite here S^r Charles takeing
great delight in his Gardens, I must say I never saw trees so well
dress’d and pruned, y^e walls so Equally Cover’d as there. There is
severall sorts of strawbery’s but y^e vermillion is y^e finest, very
large as any Garden strawbery and of a fine scarlet Coullour, but its a
Later sort; there was a pretty almond tree in Bloome y^e flower not
unlike a Rosemary flower. From thence I tooke my progress Northward and
went from hence to NewCastle under Line, through Stone w^{ch} was 9
miles, and then to Trentum, and passed by a great house of M^r Leveston
Gore, and went on the side of a high hill below which the River Trent
rann and turn’d its silver streame forward and backward into s. s w^{ch}
Looked very pleasant Circleing about y^e fine meadows in their
flourishing tyme bedecked w^{th} hay almost Ripe and flowers. 6 mile
more to NewCastle under Line where is the fine shineing Channell Coale;
so y^e proverb to both y^e New-Castles of bringing Coales to y^m is a
needless Labour, one being famous for this Coale thats Cloven and makes
white ashes as is this, and y^e NewCastle on y^e Tyne is for y^e sea
Coale y^t Cakes and is what is Common and famillier to every smith in
all villages. I went to this NewCastle in Staffordshire to see the
makeing of y^e fine tea potts. Cups and saucers of y^e fine red Earth in
imitation and as Curious as y^t w^{ch} Comes from China, but was
defeated in my design, they Comeing to an End of their Clay they made
use of for y^t sort of ware, and therefore was remov’d to some other
place where they were not settled at their work so Could not see it;
therefore I went on to Beteby 6 miles farther and went by a Ruinated
Castle y^e walls still remaining Called Healy Castle—this was deep Clay
way. This town is halfe in Staffordshire and halfe in Cheshire, one side
of y^e streete in y^e one, and y^e other in y^e latter, so y^t they
often jest on it in travelling one wheele goes in Staffordshire y^e
other wheele in Cheshire.
Here is a great mer or standing water 2 miles Compass—great store of
good fish; it belongs to one M^r Egerton: thence I went to Nantwitch 5
long miles. Nantwitch is a pretty large town and well built: here are
y^e salt springs of w^{ch} they make salt and many salterns w^{ch} were
a boyling y^e salt. This is a pretty Rich land; you must travell on a
Causey; I went 3 miles on a Causey through much wood. Its from Nantwitch
to Chester town 14 long miles, y^e wayes being deep: its much on
Enclosures and I passed by severall large pooles of waters, but what I
wonder’d at was y^t tho’ this shire is remarkable for a greate deale of
greate Cheeses and Dairys I did not see more than 20 or 30 Cowes in a
troope feeding, but on Enquiry find y^e Custome of y^e Country to joyn
their milking together of a whole village and so make their great
Cheeses. West Chester town lies in a bottom and runs a greate length and
is pretty big—there are 10 Churches.
The Cathedrall is Large and Lofty, y^e quire well Carv’d, fine tapistry
hangings at y^e alter, a good organ: The Bishops pallace is on the Right
hand of it and the Doctors houses, all built of Stone. There is a new
hall building w^{ch} is for y^e assize and it stands on great Stone
pillars w^{ch} is to be y^e exchange w^{ch} will be very Convenient and
handsome; the hall is round, its built of Bricke and Stone Coynes, there
are Leads all round w^{th} battlements and in the middle is a tower,
there are ballconies on y^e Side and windows quite round y^e Cupillow
that shews y^e whole town round. There is another town hall—a long Lofty
place, and another by the Side w^{ch} is Called the Councill Roome both
for y^e Major and Aldermen to meete for y^e buissinesse of y^e
Corporation. Y^e town is walled all aboute w^{th} battlem^{ts} and a
walke all round pav’d w^{th} stone, I allmost Encompass’d y^e walls. Ye
streetes are of a greate breadth, but there is one thing takes much from
their appeareing so and from their beauty, for on each side in most
places they have made penthouses so broad set on pillars w^{ch} persons
walk under Covert, and is made up and down steps under which are ware
houses. Tho’ a penthouse or pallasadoe be convenient for security from
y^e sun or weather and were it no broader than for two to passe one by
y^e other it would be well and No dissight to y^e grace of y^e Streetes,
but this does darken y^e streetes and hinder y^e Light of y^e houses in
many places to y^e streete ward below, indeed in some places were it
only before y^e Chiefe persons houses it would be Convenient where its
flatt and Even w^{th} the streetes. The town is mostly timber buildings,
the trade and Concourse of people to it is Chiefly from the jntercourse
it has with Ireland—most take this passage; and also y^e jntercourse
w^{th} Wales w^{ch} is parted from it and England by y^e river Dee
w^{ch} washes y^e Castle Walls in w^{ch} they keep their Stores, but
nothing fine in it. The walls and towers seemes in good repaire. At the
End of y^e town just by the Castle you Crosse over a very large and Long
Bridge over the River Dee w^{ch} has the tyde Comes up much beyond the
town; its 7 mile off y^t it falls into y^e sea, but its very broad below
y^e town, when at high tyde is like a very broad sea: there they have a
little Dock and build shipps of 200 tunn, I saw some on the stocks.
Cross this River by this Bridge Enters Fflintshire and so Crossed over
y^e marches w^{ch} is hazardous to strangers, therefore M^r W^m
Allen—w^{ch} was y^e major of Chester that time and gave me a very Civil
treate being an acquaintance of my Brother S^r Edmund Harrison—so
order’d his son and another Gentleman to Ride w^{th} me to Direct, to
Harding w^{ch} was 5 miles. Just by that was a very fine new built house
of Brick and in y^e Exact forme of y^e London Architecture w^{ch} was
this M^r Majors house and good gardens.
Att Harding, where was my Relation D^r Percivalls wife who was Minister
of y^t place: his parish was 8 miles in Extent and 2 lordships in it,
and y^e ruines of two great Castles in it remaines—its good Rich Land
here, much on Enclosures and woods.
In a tarresse walke in my Relations garden I could very plainly see
Chester and y^e River Dee with all its Washes over the Marsh ground
w^{ch} look’d very finely: here are sands w^{ch} makes it very difficult
for strangers to passe w^{th} out a guide. From hence my Relation
Carry’d me to Holly Well and pass’d thro’ Flint town w^{ch} is the shire
town 5 mile from harding; its a very Ragged place many villages in
England are better, y^e houses all thatched and stone walls, but so
decay’d that in many places Ready are to tumble down. There was a town
hall such a one as it was; it was at a Session tyme w^n I was there
w^{ch} shew’d it at its Prime. There is a Castle w^{ch} still remaines
w^{th} its towers built of stone, its down to y^e water side: from
thence to Holy well is 3 mile mostly by y^e water side w^{ch} is
Reckon’d the sea—here I went just in sight of high Lake where were many
shipps Rideing along that harbour.
S^t Winfreds Well is built over w^{th} stone on Pillars Like a
Tryumphall arch or tower on y^e gates of a Church, there is a pavem^t of
stone w^{th} in—round 3 sides of y^e well w^{ch} is joyn’d on y^e fourth
side by a great arch of stone w^{ch} Lies over y^e water y^t runs of
from y^e well; its many springs w^{ch} bubbles up very fast and Lookes
Cleane in a Compass w^{ch} is 8 square walled in w^{th} stone. In y^e
bottom w^{ch} you see as Clear as Chrystall are 9 stones Layd in an oval
on w^{ch} are dropps of Red Coullour some almost quite Covering the top
of y^e stone, w^{ch} is pretended to be y^e blood of this holy saint
whose head was struck off here and so where her body Laid this spring
burst forth and remaines till now a very Rapid Current, w^{ch} runs off
from this well under a barre by w^{ch} there are stone stepps for y^e
persons to descend w^{ch} will bathe themselves in the well, and so they
walke along y^e Streame to the other End and then come out, but there is
nothing to Shelter them but are Exposed to all the Company that are
walking about y^e well and to y^e Little houses and part of y^e Streete
w^{ch} runs along by it but y^e Religeuse are not to mind it, it seemes
the saint they do honour to in this place must beare them out in all
things. They tell of many lameness’s and aches and distempers w^{ch} are
Cured by it, its a Cold water and Cleare and runs off very quick so y^t
it would be a pleasant refreshm^t in y^e sumer to washe ones self in it,
but its shallow not up to y^e Waste so its not Easye to Dive and washe
in, but I thinke I Could not have been persuaded to have gone in unless
I might have had Curtains to have drawn about some part of it to have
shelter’d from y^e Streete, for y^e wett garments are no Covering to y^e
body; but there I saw abundance of y^e devout papists on their Knees all
round a well. Poor people are deluded into an jgnorant blind zeale and
to be pity’d by us y^t have the advantage of knowing better and ought to
be better. There is some stones of a Reddish Coullour in y^e well s^d to
be some of S^t Winifred’s blood also, w^{ch} y^e poore people take out
and bring to y^e strangers for Curiosity and Relicts, and also moss
about y^e bancks full of great virtue for Every thing. But its a
Certaine gaine to y^e poore people—every one gives them something for
bringing them moss and y^e stones, but lest they should in length of
tyme be quite gather’d up they take Care to replenish it dayly from some
mossy hill and so stick it along y^e sides of y^e well—there is good
streames runs from it and by meanes of steepe descent runs down and
turns mills. They come also to drinke of y^e water w^{ch} they take up
in y^e first square w^{ch} is walled round and where the springs Rise
and they say its of wonder full operation. Y^e taste to me was but like
good spring water w^{ch} w^{th} wine and sugar and Lemons might make a
pleasant Draught after walking amongst those shady trees of w^{ch} there
is a great many and some straight and tall like a grove but not very
uniforme. From thence I went back to Harding w^{ch} is 8 very Long
Miles. At Holly well they speake Welsh; the inhabitants go barefoote and
bare leg’d—a nasty sort of people. Their meate is very small here,
Mutton is noe bigger than Little Lamb, what of it there is was sweete;
their wine good being Neare y^e Sea side, and are well provided with
ffish—very good Salmon and Eeles and other ffish I had at Harding. This
shire is improperly Called Fflintshire there being noe flints in all y^e
Country. There are great Coale pitts of the Channell Coale thats Cloven
huge great pieces: they have great wheeles that are turned w^{th} horses
y^t draw up the water and so draine the Mines w^{ch} would Else be over
flowed so as they Could not dig the Coale; they have also Engines y^t
draw up their Coale in sort of baskets Like hand barrows w^{ch} they
wind up like a Bucket in a well, for their mines are dug down through a
sort of well and sometymes its pretty Low before they Come to y^e
Coales; it makes y^e Road unsafe because of y^e Coale pitts and also
from y^e Sloughs and quicksands, all here about being mostly near y^e
bancks of y^e water. In this Country are quarrys of Stone, Copper and
Iron Mines and salt hills, its a hilly place, very steep descents and
great many very high hills, but I went not so farre as Pen Ma Mower but
Cross’d y^e river Dee haveing first went two mile by these Coale mines
(at least 10) in a place (?) its a thing w^{ch} holds neer two bushell
that is their Basket they draw up w^{ch} is bought for 6 pence. I forded
over y^e Dee when y^e tide was out all upon the sands at Least a mile,
w^{ch} was as smooth as a Die being a few hours left of y^e flood. Y^e
sands are here soe Loose y^t the tydes does move them from one place to
another at Every flood, y^t the same place one used to ffoard a month or
two before is not to be pass’d now, for as it brings the sands in heaps
to one place so it leaves others in deep holes w^{ch} are Cover’d w^{th}
water and Loose sand that would swallow up a horse or Carriages; so I
had two Guides to Conduct me over. The Carriages w^{ch} are used to it
and pass Continually at y^e Ebbs of water observes y^e drift of sands
and so Escape y^e danger. It was at least a mile I went on y^e sands
before I Came to y^e middle of y^e Channell w^{ch} was pretty deep and
with such a Current or tyde w^{ch} was falling out to sea together
w^{th} y^e wind, the horses feete could scarce stand against it, but it
was but narrow just the deep part of the Channell and so soone over.
When the tyde is fully out they frequently fford in many places w^{ch}
they marke as the sands fall and Can go near 9 or 10 mile over y^e sands
from Chester to Burton or to Flint town almost; but many persons that
have known the ffoards well y^t have Come a year or halfe a year after,
if they venture on their former knowledge have been overwhelm’d in the
Ditches made by y^e sands w^{ch} is deep Enough to swallow up a Coach or
waggon; but they Convey their Coales from Wales and any other things by
waggon when the tyde is out to Chester and other parts. From Burton
w^{ch} was on y^e side of England the shore, I went to y^e fferry 9
miles to the river Meresy another great River and a perfect sea for 20
mile or more. It Comes out of Lancashire from Warrington and both this
and y^e Dee Empts themselves into y^e sea almost together a few Leagues
from Leverpoole, w^{ch} poole is form’d by a poynt of land that runs
almost round the Entrance from y^e sea, being narrow and hazardous to
strangers to saile in in the winter. Y^e mouth of y^e river by reason of
y^e Sands and Rocks is a gate to y^e River; this I ferry’d over and was
an hour and halfe in y^e passage, its of great breadth and at low water
is so deep and salt as y^e sea almost, tho’ it does not Cast so green a
hew on y^e water as ye sea, but else the waves toss and y^e Rocks grate
all round it and is as dangerous as y^e sea. Its a sort of Hoy that I
ferried over and my horses—y^e boate would have held 100 people.
Leverpoole w^{ch} is in Lancashire is built just on the river Mersy
mostly new built houses of brick and stone after the London fashion; y^e
first original was a few fishermens houses and now is grown to a large
fine town and but a parish and one Church, tho’ there be 24 streetes in
it. There is Indeed a little Chappell and there are a great many
dessenters in the town. Its a very Rich trading town, y^e houses of
Brick and stone built high and Even that a streete quite through Lookes
very handsome—the streetes well pitched. There are abundance of persons
you see very well dress’d and of good fashion, y^e streetes are faire
and Long, its London in miniature as much as ever I saw anything. There
is a very pretty Exchange stands on 8 pillars besides the Corners w^{ch}
are Each Arche pillars all of stone and its railed in, over w^{ch} is a
very handsome town hall—over all is a tower and Cupilow thats so high
that from thence one has y^e whole view of y^e town and the Country
round—in a Clear day you may see y^e Jsle of Man w^{ch} also was in view
from out of Wales at Harding on the high tarrass walke in my Cos’n
Percivalls garden.
Thence to Prescote 7 very long miles, but pretty good way, mostly Lanes;
there I passed by Nosel the Earle of Darbys house w^{ch} Looked very
nobly w^{th} many towers and balls on them; it stands amongst tall trees
and Lookes like a pleasant grove all about it, its an old house runs a
great Compass of ground. Y^e town of Prescote stands on a high hill, a
very pretty neate Market town—a Large market place and broad streetes
well pitch’d.