Enclosures and rich Ground. Y^e Little towns stand pretty thicke. You
have many in view as you pass y^e Road. 6 mile to Horwood, thence we
pass by a lofty pile of Building Called Salden, a gentlemans house, and
by the Rich M^{rs} Bennets House, Remarkable for Coveteousness w^{ch}
was y^e Cause of her death—her treasures tempted a Butcher to Cut her
throate who hangs in Chains just against her house. She had 3 daughters,
the two youngest are Living one married to a Benet, y^e other y^e Earle
of Salisbury and are great fortunes by their mothers penuriousness.
Thence to Oxborn and Enter Bedfordshire 13 mile. The duke of Bedfords
house we saw w^{ch} stands in a fine parke full of deer and wood, and
some off the trees are kept Cut in works and y^e shape of severall
beasts. The house is an old Building, Low, there are very good stables
and out offices, Landry yard &c. The gardens are fine, there is a Large
bowling-green with 8 arbours kept Cut neately and seates in Each, there
is a Seate up in a high tree that ascends from y^e green 50 steps that
Commands the whole parke round to see the Deer hunted, as also a Large
prospect of the Country. There are 3 Large Gardens, fine Gravell walks
and full of fruite. I Eate a great quantety of y^e Red Coralina goosbery
w^{ch} is a large thin skin’d sweete Goosebery. Ye walks are one above
another w^{th} stone steps. In the square, just by the dineing roome
window is all sorts of pots of flowers and Curious greens, fine orange,
Cittron and Lemon trees and mirtles, striped ffilleroy and y^e fine
aloes plant. On the side of this you pass under an arch into a Cherry
garden in the midst of w^{ch} stands a figure of stone resembling an old
weeder woman used in the garden, and my Lord would have her Effigie
w^{ch} is done so like and her Clothes so well that at first I tooke it
to be a Real Living body. On y^e other side of y^e house is another
Large garden, severall gravell walks one above another, and on the
flatts are fish ponds the whole length of the Walke; above y^t in the
next flat is 2 fish ponds, here are dwarfe trees spread of a great
bigness. Ffrom thence we Came to Dunstable 7 mile over a sad road Called
Hockley in y^e Hole, as full of deep slows in y^e winter it must be
Empasable. There is a very good pitch’d Causey for foote people and
horse, that is raised up high from the Road, and a very steepe Chaulky
hill, from whence it has its name—the Chalk hill just as you Enter
Dunstable. Its a good town as you shall meete with on the Road, its full
of Inns, there is a long Large streete with a great water in the
streete—it Looks like a Large pond. Here I went to see two of my
Relations Daughters to S^r Charles Woolsley, one marry’d there to a
Doctor of physick D^r Marsh, w^{th} whome was a maiden sister my Cos’n
Bridget Woolsley. Thence to S^t Albans and so we Enter Hartfordshire 12
mile. There is a very large streete to the Market place, its a pretty
Large town takeing all the S^t Juliers and y^t at one End, and y^e other
End is S^t Nicholas where is a handsome Church. The great Church w^{ch}
is dedicated to S^t Albans is much out of repaire, I see the places in
the pavement that was worn like holes for kneeling by the devotes of y^e
Religion and his votery’s as they tell you, but the whole Church is so
worn away that it mourns for some Charitable person to help repaire it.
There are severall good houses about y^e town, one of y^e Earle off
Maulberough (now Duke of Marlborough) and one of M^{rs} Gennings y^e
Countess Mother.
Thence we Came to Barnet 8 mile, w^{ch} is in Middlesex and seemes to be
a very sharpe aire; its a Large place and y^e houses are made Commodious
to Entertain the Company y^t Comes to drink the water, w^{ch} Certainly
if they be at the paines to go once and see would have but Little
stomach to drink them. The well is a Large place walled in 8 square, its
at Least two yards over and built 2 or 3 yards up from the water and
over it is Lattices of wood round to Looke down into it and so Covered
like a house above; below are staires down to a doore to go in to dip
the water there. I stood at the Lowest step above the water to Look into
it, its full of Leaves and Dirt and Every tyme they dip it troubles y^e
water, not but what they take up and let stand—Looks Clear but I Could
not taste it. Its very deep and not done at the bottom w^{th} a bason as
Tunbridg, neither Can you see the bottom, so that it appears not to be a
quick spring as Tunbridg or y^e Spaw or Hamstead waters w^{ch} have all
fine stone basons in w^{ch} you see the springs bubble up as fast and by
a pipe runs off as Clear and fast; it more resembles Epsom for w^{ch}
reason I dislike that. Thence to Highgate 6 miles, thence to London 4
miles where I returned and all our Company Blessed be God very well
w^{th} out any disaster or trouble in 7 weeks tyme about 635 miles that
we went together.
My Journey to Canterberry and Dover in Kent the same year from Amwell in
Hartfordshire. I went to Royston 1 mile, and Epin in Essex 9 mile,
thence to Drumford through Lanes and much wood—that part of Essex is
full of woods; y^t was 10 mile. Thence to Abnife 14 mile, thence to
Tilbery 3 mile w^{ch} is a ffine ffort, a great flatt to y^e Land, full
of Watry ditches and may be flooded all over. Here was the fight by y^e
parliament in 1640. There are Severall Buildings by themselves of a
Triangular form of Brickwork in w^{ch} y^e powder and amunition is kept.
Here is a ferry over to Gravesend where we enter Kent, w^{ch} Lyes just
over against it a little snugg town under a hill, the houses little and
thick together fitt only for seamen and soldiers y^t are Employ’d in the
water or the ffort. I saw severall Colliers pass by Laden towards
London.
The Thames here is very Rough and Deep so as we fferry over in a boate
like a Hoy. Thence I went to Rochester 7 mile most in lanes; we Enter
the town over the Medway w^{ch} is the finest River I ever saw, it runs
thence to the sea and meetes y^e Thames at y^e Boy in Nore and so they
fall into y^e sea together, but it Ebbs and flows up a great way above
Rochester and is very salt. The Bridg at Rochester is the finest in
England—nay its said to Equal any in the world—it is not built upon
w^{th} houses as London Bridge but its very Long and fine, Iron spikes
Like a grate is on the top of the wall w^{ch} is breast high, and these
jrons on the top w^{ch} are above a yard more. Its jndented at Each arch
as all bridges are, there are 9 large Arches w^{th} y^e middle one
w^{ch} is to be opened by drawing up to give passage to Barges and
little vessells. When y^e tyde was out I saw the worke of the arches is
w^{th} wood Cutt hollow, and stands a good distance into the water to
keep the water from bearing too hard against the Bridge.
The town is large jncludeing the suburbs and all, for there is a large
place before you pass the river w^{ch} washes quite round y^t side of
y^e town to y^e Dockyards, thats a mile from it where are two large
yards for building shipps.
I saw severall Large shipps building, others refitting. There was in one
place a sort of arches like a bridge of Brickwork, they told me y^e use
of it was to let in y^e water there, and so they put their masts in to
season, besides this dock, here are severall streetes of houses on this
hill w^{ch} is pretty high and is just against Rochester, and on y^e
hill you have y^e best prospect of the town and see y^e severall good
Churches in it, and the Castle w^{ch} is a pretty Little thing just by
y^e Medway w^{ch} runs along by it, and so at foote of this hill is a
Round and so onward to sea. There were severall shipps at anchor along
y^e River. All behind the town is another hill w^{ch} is covered w^{th}
fine woods y^t Looks very fine; thence to Sittingburn 11 mile all in
sight of y^e Lovely Medway. This is a very good town for y^e Road and
travellers as you shall meete w^{th}. The Church is all built w^{th}
flints headed so Curiously that it Lookes like glass and shines with y^e
suns Reflexion.
Thence to Canterbery 16 mile, we pass by great Hop yards on both sides
of the Road, and this year was great quantetyes of that fruite here in
Kent. We pass by Ffeversham just at y^e towns End w^{ch} is 9 mile from
Canterbury, its a very large town and good buildings of Bricke.
Canterbery opens to view 6 miles distant by y^e advantage of a high hill
we pass over to it—its a noble Citty—y^e gates are high tho’ but narrow,
the streetes are most of them Large and long, and y^e buildings
handsome, very neate but not very Lofty, most are of Brickwork, its a
flourishing town, good tradeing in y^e weaving of silks. I saw 20 Loomes
in one house w^{th} severall fine flower’d silks, very good ones, and
its a very Ingenious art to fix the warps and Chaine in their Loomes to
Cast their work into such ffigures and flowers. There stands a boy by
Every Loome and pulls up and down threads w^{ch} are fastened to the
weaving, and so pulls the Chaine to the Exact form for y^e shuttle to
work through.
There are also paper mills w^{ch} dispatches paper at a quick rate, they
were then makeing brown paper w^n I saw it. The mill is set agoing by
y^e water and at y^e same tyme it pounded the raggs to morter for y^e
paper, and it beate out meale and Hemp and ground bread altogether—that
is at y^e same tyme. When y^e substance for y^e paper is pounded Enough,
they take it in a great tub and so with a frame just of y^e size of y^e
sheetes of paper made all of small wire just as I have seen fine Screens
to Screen Corne in, only this is much Closer wrought, and they Clap a
frame of wood round y^e Edge and so dip it into y^e tub and what is too
thinn runs through; then they turn this frame down on a piece of Coarse
woollen just of y^e size of y^e paper and so give a Knock to it and it
falls off; on w^{ch} they Clap another such a piece of woollen Cloth
w^{ch} is ready to Lay y^e next frame of paper, and so till they have
made a large heape w^{ch} they by a board on the bottom move to a press,
and so Lay a board on y^e top and so Let down a great screw and weight
on it, w^{ch} they force together into such a narrow Compass as they
know so many sheets of paper will be reduced, and this presses out all
y^e thinner part and Leaves the paper so firme as it may be taken up
sheete by sheete and Laid together to be thoroughly dryed by the wind.
They told me white paper was made in the same manner only they must take
white woollen to put between. There is a great number of French people
in this town w^{ch} are Employ’d in the weaving and silk winding, I
meete them Every night going home in great Companyes, but then some of
them were Employ’d in the Hopping, it being the season for pulling them.
Here is a spring in the town that is dranke by many persons as Tunbridge
and approv’d by them, but others find it an ill water, one Gentleman in
y^e same house I was in Complained of a numbness in his Limbs after
drinking it sometyme, w^{ch} is quite Contrary to Tunbridge waters whose
property is to relieve Lost Limbs y^t are benumbed, and it Comeing from
steele should have y^t Effect it raising the blood and gives it a new
Circulation. The taste of the spring in this town seems to be from a
mixt soyle and bears a Likeness to y^e Sulpher spaw Epsome and y^e Iron
springs too w^{ch} are at Tunbridge; what its operation is I Cannot tell
only tasteing halfe a Glass of it w^{ch} I did not Like. Y^e well is
walled in and a raile round w^{th} stepps down and paved aboute for the
Company to stand just at y^e head to drinke, but I like no spring y^t
rises not quick and runs off apace that must have most spirit and good
off the minerall it Comes from. There is fine walks and seates and
places for the musick to make it acceptable and Comodious to y^e
Company. There is a large Market house and a town Hall over it in the
town, but the Cathedrall is the finest sight there, the Carving of stone
is very fine on the outside as also within, but its not so Large as
Salisbury; its a square tower—no spire running up from it—but the small
ones at Each Corner of y^e tower for ornament.
There are two large jsles in y^e middle of the Church w^{ch} leads to
open gates of jron barrs and spikes, thence is an ascent of 20 steps, as
Winchester Church is; up to y^e Quire, where is a fine Large organ, so
is the ffont well Carv’d and painted and Gilded, the bottom is white and
grey Marble w^{th} white marble statues round the stem to the ffoote,
the top is made in a piramidy Carv’d and painted. The Windows in y^e
Quire are most delicately painted as Ever I saw, y^e Curiosity of the
worke and Coullours beyond others, but the size of the windows much
Inferior being very small for a Church. Y^e Glass is very thick and the
Coullours Laid on it strikes through the glass, its Coullours tinctures
all y^e Glass, an art w^{ch} now is lost amongst us. At y^e Alter is a
Cloth and Coushons of purple ffigured Velvet the books the same, there
is a broad tissue border of orrace work gold and silver, and at y^e Edge
is a ffine knotted fringe of purple silk and gold. The Bishops seate and
Cushon the same w^{ch} was given by our good Queen Mary King Williams
Queen when she was at Canterbery. The Chapter house is pretty Lofty
supported by its own worke w^{th} out pillars, its Ceiled with Irish
oake, there are severall good monuments of y^e Kings and queens and
great men and severall Bishops. There is one Bishops statue y^t was at
y^e paines to divide the Bible into Chapters w^{ch} makes it more
Commodious to the Reader, and was a good Employment for him it being the
proper subject of such a person of y^e Church to studdy y^e holy
Scriptures w^{ch} gives the truest wisdom. There is the Chaire that all
y^e Arch Bishops are Inaugurated in when made Arch Bishops, its wood
with Elbows. There is another statue of a Bishop Cut out in wood, his
Robes and all well Carv’d and is ffirm and solid still, Except some
small deffaceing by y^e soldiers in y^e warre tyme, and this has stood
some 100 of yeares. There is a Chapple Called Thomas of Beckets Crown,
the Roofe being Carv’d in the fform of a Crown and painted; there is
also a pavement w^{ch} is much worne by the feete and knees off this
S^{ts} votarys that Came to do obeysance to his Shrine. There is one
Brass statue in armour but its not so bright being less regarded than
that at Warwick. Under the Cathedrall is a Large Church just Like S^t
Ffaiths under S^t Pauls in London; this is given to the Ffrench
protestants in the town for the worshipping God, it holds a vast number
of people, its as full of Seates as Can thrust by Each other, it seemed
a Little darkish, but they say when the doores are open its Light
Enough, its so well arch’d that they Cannot hear them in the Cathedrall
when singing—at least no wayes to disturb them. I went out another part
of the town thro’ a good gate and so to Dover 15 mile much up hill and
down, it was a good Road and Sort of Champion Country, yet at a distance
you see many good woods and pretty houses w^{th} Rows of trees. The
Castle at Dover is discover’d five mile off standing on the Edge of a
very steep hill on w^{ch} you ascend up to y^e tower 120 steps up,
whence you discover Callice in Ffrance. I saw the Clifts and hills
plaine, but in some Cleer dayes towards the Evening you may see the
towers and buildings of Callice, you likewise see a vast way on all
sides sea ward and to y^e Land. The Castle is Left much to decay and
ruinated only a small appartment for the Governour of three or four
Roomes, Else y^e whole is spoyl’d the floores taken up and wanscoate
pulled down. I was in the roome Queen Elizabeth was kept prisoner in
till the death of queen Mary, the balcony just by in w^{ch} she saw the
messenger Coming which she supposed was of Death to take off her head,
but proved the Messenger that brought y^e news of the Crown and Kingdom
falling to her by the death of her sister. She afterwards repaired the
Chapple but now its quite out of use, the Roofe and side being Mouldred
down in many places. There is a fine dry well in y^e Castle walled
Curiously of a vast depth, the use of it was to Discover the work of the
miners in tyme of a siege whereabout they were at worke, going down into
this well discovered y^e working by y^e shakeing y^e Earth at what side
they were at worke, and so might defeate them by a Countermine. There is
also a great well of 60 ffathom deep, the water is drawn up by a great
wheele with a horse, notwithstanding its so deep yet its also wide and
Exactly down Right, that I could see the water at the top, and when I
flung a stone w^{ch} was a pretty while descending I saw when it plashed
into y^e water. There is on y^e Plattform guns mounted w^{ch} being so
high Commands the Road so as no ship Durst saile under it. Its a mighty
steep Clift at the poynt which makes ones head Giddy to Look down to the
sea. There is one Gun of Cast Brass of a Great Length finely Carv’d and
adorn’d with ffigures, this Carrys a Ball a great way tho’ y^e bore or
muzzle of y^e Gun be not bigger than my fist, so the Ball its Charged
with Cannot be very bigg but it will do Execution a great way off; this
was made at Utriche in Holland and presented to Queen Elizabeth; its
worth a great sum of money for its Curiosity. There is a Little Cannon
of y^e same worke w^{ch} I have seen in y^e Tower at London, there is a
great Inscription on it. There are Gunns also planted in a Little ffort
at y^e ffoote of this steepe Clift to secure y^e Road from Pirates, for
as to Dover town it Looks like a place of no deffence, its a Little
place, y^e houses are Little and looks thrust together, there is a
market house and town hall, its well enough for the accomodation of the
seamen and to Supply the shipps w^{th} anything, it seems where the town
stands the sea formerly Came in and was Cover’d under water severall
fathom deep so as the shipps Ride there in harbour. The town was only
within the Limits of a wall w^{ch} Encompass’s y^e Castle of which small
matters appears, only of a great Banck and some parts of y^e Ruines of
y^e ffoundation, but y^e sea Leaving the shore so ffarre they have built
this town w^{ch} has no gates.
Thence we went to Deale 7 mile, all by the sea side w^{ch} is Called the
Downs w^{ch} sometymes is full of shipps all along the Road, but now
there were not many. The Downes seems to be so open a place and the
shoar so Easye for Landing I should think it no difficulty to Land a
good army of men in a little tyme, there is only 3 Little fforts, or
Castles they Call them, about a miles distance one to another—Warworth
at Deal, and Sandwitch which holds a few Guns, but I should think they
would be of Little Effect and give the Enemy no great trouble. Deale
Looks like a good thriveing place, y^e buildings new and neate Brickwork
with gardens. I believe they are most masters of shipps houses and
seamen or Else those that belong to y^e Cordage and Saile makeing with
other Requisites to shipping. All this Country about seemes to be a very
fruitfull soyle and full of woods. You see a many pretty towns
altogether almost, neate Churches and towers all the way you travell
from Dover to Deale on y^r Left hand, but beyond Deale you go a very
deepe heavy sand for 4 mile to Sandwich. You go along by y^e Sea side in
sight of the jsle of Thannet w^{ch} is just over against Sandwich and is
so near it you see y^e Lands and jnclosures and woods and houses. I
suppose it not a quarter of a League from Sandwich; this is a sad old
town all timber building, you Enter by a gate and so you go out of it by
a gate, but its run so to Decay that Except one or two good houses its
just like to Drop down y^e whole town.
Thence to Canterbery ten mile most thro’ Lanes. We come by my Lord
Winchelseas house, garden and parke. Y^e house is an old building—and so
I Entered Canterbery another way through another gate and observ’d all
wayes to y^e town—being from hills gives the prospect of y^e town very
finely to the Eye and Indeed it Lookes like a good Citty altogether
which way Ever you Looke on it in the approach. From thence to Maidstone
I went 9 mile back the way I Came, and on the hill 6 mile off w^{ch}
gave me so fine a sight of Canterbery as I came, did Likewise present a
pleaseing prospect as I returned; it being a very high hill Commands the
view of the Country a vast way and w^{th} such variety of woods rivers
and Inclosures and buildings that was very delicate and diverting. When
I turned off the road to Maidstone I travell’d through Lanes and woods
w^{ch} were very ffine but hid y^e sight of the Country about being so
Close; y^t it was y^e privatest Road I have travell’d. About 10 mile
short of Maidstone you ascend a very steep hill w^{ch} discovers the
whole Country at one view 40 mile off backward from whence we Came; and
a few paces on the top of y^e hill the descent of the hill on that other
side is so great a fall that gives you as full a discovery of the
Country all forward, both w^{ch} shew the variety of grounds intermixt
w^{th} Each other, and Lesser hills and plaines and Rivers w^{ch} such
advanced grounds present y^e travellers at one view; this is Called
Boxlye hills and is part of the same Ridge of hills w^{ch} runs along by
Epsome.