or 5 Yards square and round the brimm is a walke of Broad stone round.
There are 4 or 5 Steps down to the bottom, it is no deeper at Some
places then a Little above y^e Waste, not up to y^e Shoulders of a
woman, and you may kneel on a flatt Stone and it Comes to y^r Chin—this
the papists made use of very much. At one Corner the Springs rise they
are very quick and there is a Sluce that it Continually runns off so as
to keep just at the same depth, and it runns off so fast and y^e Springs
supply so fast that it Clears the Well presently after any body has been
in. I allwayes Chose to be just where y^e springs rise that is much the
Coldest and it throws off anything in the Well to y^e Sluce. Setting
aside y^e papists ffancyes of it I cannot but think it is a very good
Spring being remarkably Cold and just at y^e head of y^e Spring, so its
ffresh w^{ch} must needs be very strengthning; it Shutts up the pores of
y^e body immeadiately, so fortifyes from Cold, you Cannot bear ye
Coldness of it above 2 or 3 minutes and then you Come out and walke
round y^e pavement and then in againe, and so 3 or 4 or 6 or 7 as many
tymes as you please. You go in and out in Linnen Garm^{ts}, some go in
fflannell; I used my bath Garm^{ts} and so pulled them off and put on
flannell when I Came out to go into the bed which is best; but some Came
at a distance—so did I and did not go into bed—but some will keep on
their wet Garments and let them drye to them and say its more
beneficial, but I did not venture it. I dipp’d my head quite over every
tyme I went in and found it Eased a Great pain I used to have in my
head, and I was not so apt to Catch Cold so much as before w^{ch} I
imputed to the Exceeding Coldness of y^e Spring that shutts up the pores
of the body. Its thought it runns off of some very Cold spring and from
Clay. Some of y^e papists I saw there had so much Zeale as to Continue a
quarter of an hour on their knees at their prayers in y^e Well, but none
else Could well endure it so long at a tyme, I went in 7 Severall
seasons and 7 tymes Every Season and would have gone in oftener Could we
have Staid longer. We went back to Harragat 6 mile and then we went to
Burrough Bridge 8 mile—a famous place for Salmon, but then we Could not
meete with any, but we had a very Large Codfish there above a yard long
and more than halfe a yard in Compass very fresh and good and Cost but 8
pence. I saw as big a one bought then for 6 pence and six Crabbs as big
as my two hands, the Least was bigger than one of my fists, all cost but
3 pence. Thence to Harragate 8 mile, then we went and Laid at
Knarsburoughe 2 mile, w^{ch} was nearer to S^t Mungers Well, for we went
it twice from Harragate and back w^{ch} was 12 mile more and found it
too farre to go in an afternoon—from Knarsburough it was but 4 mile; we
went it four tymes and back w^{ch} was 16 miles and we went afterwards
to Harraget 3 tymes and back 12 mile more. From Knarsborough we went to
Rippon a pretty Little market town mostly built of Stone, 8 mile, a
Large Market place with a high Cross of severall Stepps; we were there
the Market day where provisions are very plentifull and Cheape.
In the Market was sold then 2 good Shoulders of veal, they were not very
fatt nor so large as our meate in London but good meate, one for 5^d the
other for 6^d, and a good quarter of Lamb for 9^d or 10^d, and its usual
to buy a very good Shoulder of Veale for 9 pence, and a quarter of Beefe
for 4 shillings; Indeed it is not large ox Beef but good Middling
Beasts: and Craw ffish 2^d a Doz^n—so we bought them.
Notwithstanding this plenty some of y^e Inns are very dear to Strangers
that they Can impose on. The town Stands on a hill and there is a good
large Stone built Church well Carved, they Call it a minster. There is
very fine painting over the alter, it Looks so natural just like Real
Crimson satten with gold ffringe like hangings, and Severall rows of
Pillars in jsles on Either side w^{ch} looks very naturall. There are
two good Bridges to the town, one was a rebuilding, pretty large with
Severall arches Called Hewet bridge—its often out of repaire by reason
of the force of y^e water that Swells after great raines, yet I see they
made works of wood on purpose to breake the violence of y^e Streame and
y^e Middle arche is very Large and high.
There are Severall good houses about y^e town and Severall Gentlemens
Seates about a mile or two distance: 2 mile off is a fine place of S^r
Edw^d Blackets, it looks finely in y^e approach in the Midst of a good
parke, and a River runns just by it, it stands in the middle and has two
Large Gardens on Each side. You Enter one through a Large Iron Barr-gate
painted Green and gold tops and Carv’d in Severall places, this is ffine
Gravel walks between grass plotts 4 Square, with 5 brass Statues Great
and Small in Each square, and full of borders of flowers and Green banks
with flower potts. On y^e other side of y^e house is just such a Garden,
only the walkes are all grass rowl’d and the Squares are full of dwarfe
trees, both ffruites and green, set Cross wayes w^{ch} Lookes very
finely. There is a flower Garden behind y^e house; in it and beyond it a
Landry Close, with frames for drying of Cloths, walled in. There are
good Stables and Coach house and all the offices are very
Convenient—very good Cellars all arch’d, and there I dranke small beer
four years old not too Stale, very Clear good Beer well brew’d. Their
kitching, pastry and pantry &c all very Convenient; in y^e pantry hangs
a picture of y^e dimentions of a large ox y^t was fed in these grounds
w^{th} y^e accò of its weight. Y^e Quarters was 106 Stone 1^£ and y^e
hide was 12 stone and 8 pound, the tallow was 19 stone, the head 4
stone, y^e Legs and feate weigh’d 3 stone 11^£. This Gentleman breeds
and feeds much Cattle in his grounds and has one of y^e largest Beeves
in England.
his house is built with bricke and Coyn’d w^{th} stone w^{th} a flatt
Roofe Leaded, w^{th} railes and Barristers, and a large Cupilow in y^e
middle—you may see a Greate way round y^e Country. Y^e ffront Entrance
is 3 gates of Iron Barres and spikes, painted blew with gold tops, and
brick work between y^e gates and pillars with stone tops Carv’d Like
flower potts; y^e pillars all Coyn’d with Stone. Y^e Middle gate is made
large in a Compass like a halfe Moone.
There are four more spaces in the wall open with Iron barres and
spikes, 2 of w^{ch} are in each side into y^e Gardens, and answers two
Like them on the other side of the Gardens. The two other are Less and
are at y^e End of a terrass walk just along y^e Entrance w^{ch} you
ascend by Steps from the Middle gate; they are all adorned with brick
pillars Coyn’d w^{th} stone and Stone heads—these are all painted blew
and gold tipps. From the Terrass you have a Court y^t Leads into y^e
middle of y^e house into a large hall; over y^e doore at y^e Entrance is
a fine Carving of stone w^{th} Leaves and flowers with fine stone
pillars, and y^e Armes Cutt finely, there is a fine dyal and Clock above
all. The hall you Enter is of a very good size and height. 2 dineing
roomes and drawing roomes, one for the Summer with a marble floore, 6 or
7 Chambers off a good size and lofty, so y^e most of y^e beds were two
foote too low w^{ch} was pitty they being good beds, one was Crimson
ffigured velvet, 2 damaske beds, the rest moehaire and Cambet. Y^e
roomes were mostly wanscoated and painted. Y^e best roome was painted
just like marble—few roomes were hung. The ffurniture was very neately
kept and so was the whole house, the roofe of y^e Staires was finely
painted, there was Severall pictures but not Set up the house being in
mourning for his Lady, and her mother the Lady Yorke, w^{ch} dyed in a
month or two of Each other. She left S^r Edward 10 Children, he has a
great state and will have the 2000 P ^{an} fall to him that is Lady Mary
Ffenwichs anuity. he was a merchants son at Bristol. The house is served
with water by pipes into a Cistern into y^e Garden, Cellars and all
offices. This was the ffinest house I saw in Yorkshire. We returned to
Knarsborough 9 mile and from thence we went to York againe 12 mile, this
was y^e worst Rideing in Yorkshire, then we passed thro’ York town by
another gate towards Hull, and y^t Streete was Larger and better
buildings than what I saw before in Yorke, and here we pass over the
muddy River, Called the muddy Ffosse. We passed over the river Derwent
that runns through the middle of Derbyshire to Born Bridge 9 mile,
Whitten 6 miles a Little neate Thatch’d town of a mile long where we
Lay, and passed by Burlington Lord Cliffords house that stood in a
bottom amongst trees and Look’d well, and they Say is well painted and
good ffurniture, but I saw not y^e Inside, only pass’d by it. There we
had a very Large Salmon that Cost and y^e sauce but 18^d, it was very
ffresh and good and above 3 quarters of a yard long. Thence to Beverly 9
miles w^{ch} is a very fine town for its size, its prefferable to any
town I saw but Nottingham. There are 3 or 4 Large Streetes well pitch’d
bigger than any in York, the other Lesser Streets about y^e town being
Equal with them. The Market Cross is Large, there are 3 markets, one for
beasts another for Corne and another for ffish, all Large, the town is
Serv’d with Water by wells walled up round or rather in a Square, above
halfe ones length, and by a pully and weight letts down or draws up the
Buckat w^{ch} is Chained to y^e beame of y^e pully. There are many of
these wells in all the streetes it seemes its in Imitation of Holland,
they being supply’d with water soe. The buildings are new and pretty
Lofty, the Minster has been a ffine building all stone, Carv’d on the
outside w^{th} ffigures and Images, and more than 100 pedastalls that
remaine where Statues has stood of angels and the like. The wood worke
in the quire is very ffine. Just by the Comunion table is the Sanctuary
or place of Refuge where Criminalls flee for Safety—its a Seate of Stone
work Cut all in one.
Earle of Northumberland’s and Lady’s Monuments—his is very plaine, only
a marble Stone raised up with Stone about 2 yards high; his Name, by
means of his great atchievments in the Barrons warre, great Percy Earle
of Northumberland, is monument Enough to posterity. His tombe was a
little fallen in and a hole So bigg as many put their hands in and
touch’d the body w^{ch} was much of it Entire of y^e bonds; the Skull
was whole and the teeth firme, tho’ of so many yeares standing. The
Countess’s monument is very fine, its made of y^e same free stone y^e
Church is built w^{th}, but so finely polished y^t it looks like Marble,
and Carv’d w^{th} figures, birds leaves, flowers, beasts and all sorts
of things and y^e armes is Cutt out in severall places all about it; the
top of the arch is one Entire Stone as much as one Can Grasp and its all
finely Carv’d w^{th} all sorts of Curiosityes and adorn’d with Gilding
and painting.
There are 4 good monuments all of marble of y^e Wharton ffamily. In the
middle of y^e Church is y^e tomb of S^t John with a brass Inscription on
y^e pavement, and at a little distance they shew’d us the wearing of y^e
pavement with y^e obeisance of his votarys, this being S^t John of
Beverly. At the End of y^e Church is y^e ffont, y^e upper part of it,
that is the bason was of one Entire marble of a Darke Coullour. Y^e
Cover was Carv’d Exactly and of a Piramidy fform and very high. There is
another Church Called S^t Mary’s y^t is very large and good I thought
that had been the Minster at first Entrance of y^e town; there is the
prayers Everyday and its used on all accounts and so the other is
neglected. This has a quire in which they were preaching w^n we were
there. There is a very good free schoole for boys, they say y^e best in
England for Learning and Care w^{ch} makes it fill’d with Gentlemens
Sons besides the free Schollars from all parts—provision being very
Cheape here. I was offered a large Codffish for a shilling and good
Pearch very Cheape, we had Crabbs bigger than my two hands pence apiece
w^{ch} would have Cost 6 pence if not a shilling in London and they were
very sweete. From thence we went to Hull 6 mile all upon a Caussey
secured w^{th} two little rivers running on Each Side w^{ch} is used to
flow over their grounds it being a Great fflatt severall miles, and the
meadows are Cloth’d w^{th} good Grass by y^t means. The river Hull runns
from Beverly at the town End, just by y^e Minster you Cross it, this
runns to Hull, y^e town is properly Called so from that River, but its
name is Kingston on y^e Hull, being built on y^t River w^{ch} runns into
y^e Humber w^{ch} is a noble River—y^e mouth of it opens just ag^{st}
this town. The buildings of Hull are very neate good streets, its a good
tradeing town by means of this great River Humber y^t Ebbs and flows
Like the Sea, and is 3 or 4 mile over at y^e Least; it runns 20 mile
hence into y^e Sea and takes in all y^e great Rivers—y^e Trent Ouise,
Aire, Don, y^e Derwent and y^e Hull, and Carries much water that a man
of warre of all sorts Can Ride. I was on board a new man of warre y^t
belonged to the town and Called y^e Kingston, it was but small, well
Compact for provision and was built fit for swift saileing. The Humber
is very salt, allwayes it rowles and tosses just like y^e Sea, only y^e
soile being Clay turnes y^e Water and waves yellow and soe it differs
from y^e Sea in Coullour, not Else—its a hazardous water by reason of
many shoares y^e tides meete. I was on it a pretty way and it seemes
more turbulent than y^e Thames at Gravesend.
We enter y^e town of Hull from y^e Southward over two drawbridges and
gates, there is the Same Entrance in another part of y^e town by 2 gates
and 2 drawbridges from Holderness, and so y^e ditches are round y^e town
to y^e Landward, and they Can by them floate y^e grounds for 3 mile
round w^{ch} is a good ffortification. The Garrison and plattforme
w^{ch} is the ffortification to y^e Sea is in a very uniforme ffigure
and were it ffinished is thought it would be the ffinest ffortification
that Could be seen—its wall’d and pallisadoed. I walked round it, and
viewed it and when I was on y^e water, it seemes to runn a great Length
and would require many Soldiers to deffend y^e halfe moons and workes.
In the town there is an hospitall y^{ts} Called y^e Trinity house, for
Seamens widdows, 30 is their Completm^t, their allowance 16^d p^r weeke
and ffewell, they have a little Chapple to it for prayers; over this
building is a large roome for Cordage and sailes, where they make them
and keep their Stores. In the middle of this roome there hangs a Canoe
to y^e Roofe of y^e Roome just bigg Enough for one man to sit in, and
the Effigie of a man that was taken w^{th} it, all his Cloths Cap and a
Large bag behind him where in his ffish and provision were, these were
all made of y^e skin of ffishes and were y^e same w^{ch} he wore when
taken, y^e forme of his face is only added and just resemble y^e wild
man that they took, for so the Inscription Calls him, or y^e bonny boate
man; he was taken by Cap^{tn} Baker and there are his oars and spear y^t
was with him—this is all written on y^e boat to perpetuate y^e memory of
it; he would not speak any Language or word to them y^t took him nor
would he Eate, so in a few dayes died. There is a good large Church in
Hull. You Enter a large jsle just in the Middle that runns quite aCross
through the Church, and divides the body of the Church w^{th} y^e pulpet
and pews on one Side with a partition of wood Carv’d, and on the other
side was such another partition for y^e Chancell, and I observ’d there
their alter stood tablewise for y^e Comunion just in the middle of y^e
Chancell, as it was in the primitive tymes before Popery Came in. There
was Severall Little monuments of marble in y^e walls. Ffrom thence to
Beverly againe 6 mile w^{ch} is all a flatt, thence to Brance Burton 8
mile, all likewise on a Levell w^{ch} they Call Loughs. Here we Could
get no accomodation at a Publick house, it being a Sad poore thatch’d
place and only 2 or 3 Sorry Alehouses, no lodgings but at y^e hall house
as it was Called Where liv’d a Quaker w^{ch} were Sufficient people. The
rooms were good old rooms being y^e Lord of the mannours house—these
were but tennants—but did Entertain us kindly, made two good beds for us
and also for our Servants, and good bread and Cheese, bacon and Eggs.
Thence we went to Agnes-Burton 7 mile, the miles are long and so they
are in most part of these Northern County’s. This is the East Rideing of
Yorkshire and we saw y^e Session house at Beverly for this Rideing.
Agnes Burton is a Seate of S^r Griffith Boyntons, Grandson to S^r
ffrancis w^{ch} married my father’s Sister one of William Lord Viscount
Say and Seales Daughters.
It looks finely In the approach. A mile or two off we pass by another of
his houses w^{ch} is newer built and very good Gardens, Called
Barmstone,—we Eate some of y^e good ffruite. The house is all built with
Bricks and so good Bricke that at 100 years standing no one Brick is
faulty; it stands on a pretty ascent. We Enter under a Gate-house built
w^{th} 4 large towers into a Court which is large, in y^e middle is a
Bowling green palisado’d round, and y^e Coaches runns round it to the
Entrance w^{ch} is by 10 stepps up to a Tarress, and thence a pav’d
walke to y^e house. Cut box and ffilleroy and Lawrell about y^e Court.
The ffront Looks very uniform with severall round buildings on each side
answerring Each other with Compass windows, and y^e middle is a Round
building, and y^e door Enters in in y^e side of y^t tower w^{ch} was y^e
old fashion in Building and is like my brother Say’s house at Broughton.
Out of an Entry you Come into a very Lofty good hall, y^e Screen at the
Lower End (w^{ch} divides it from y^e Entry) is ffinely Carv’d, the
parlour and drawing roome are well proportion’d roomes, and y^e
wanscoate is all well Carv’d, y^e moldings of y^e doores and Chimneys
are finely Carv’d w^{th} Staggs and all sorts of beasts, woods and some
leaves and flowers and birds and angells &c. There is beyond this a very
good little parlour w^{th} plaine wanscoate painted in veines like
marble, dark and white Streakes. There is a very good dineing roome over
this and 5 very good Chambers some well ffurnished, all very neate and
Convenient w^{th} Closetts to their own apartments and Anty roomes.
There is much of y^e Same ffine Carving in the dineing roome, the
Chambers are all wanscoated and Carv’d, there is a noble gallery over
all, with large windows on y^e sides and at Each End painted very
Curiously, out of w^{ch} you view the whole Country round and discover
the shipps under saile though at a good distance. The Gardens are large
and are Capable of being made very ffine—they now remaine in the old
ffashion. There is gravell walks and grass and Close walks, there is one
walke all y^e Length of the Garden Called the Crooked walke, of grass
well Cutt and rowled, it is indented in and out in Corners, and so is
the wall w^{ch} makes you thinke you are at y^e End off the walke
Severall tymes before you are, by means of y^e Codling hedge that is on
the other side. This Leads you to a summer house that also opens to a
large gravell walke that runns the breadth of y^e Garden to the house
ward. From Agnes Burton we went to Scarborough 14 mile. We pass’d from
this flatt to Boynton, thence ascended the wouls or high hills so Called
in this County, and it prov’d misty w^{ch} made our observations to be
fixed on it that the mist was thicker and more held in those high wouls
as raine or mist is in thick trees, so y^e mist was much more there than
in y^e plaine, so thick in some you Could not see the top. We descended
these high wouls by a steep and hazardous precipice on one Side and y^e
way narrow.
Scarbrough is a very pretty Sea-port town built on the Side of a high
hill. The Church Stands in the most Eminent place above all y^e town and
at Least 20 Steps you ascend up into y^e Churchyard. The ruines of a
Large Castle remaines, the Walls in Compass Severall acres of ground y^t
feeds many beasts and milch Cows. Y^e hill on w^{ch} the Castle Stands
is very Steep and Severall trenches over one another, round the walls
all one Side of the Castle Stands out to the sea shore a good Length.
Its open to the Main ocean and to secure the harbour there is a mole or
halfe moone, two, one within y^e other something resembling the Cobb at
Lime in Sommersetshire. The sea when the tide is in is Close up to the
town and the bottom of a Ridge of hills that runns from the town 5 or 6
mile in a Compass. When its Ebb water it Leaves y^e shore 400 yards all
a flatt, and such good sand, as you presently walke on it without
Sinking, y^e Sand is so smooth and firme, and so you may walke 5 or 6
mile on the Sand round by y^e ffoote of this Ridge of hills, w^{ch} is
the poynt by w^{ch} all the Shipps pass that go to NewCastle or that
way. I see 70 saile of shipps pass the point and so Come onward at some
Distance off from the Castle, Supposed to be Colliers and their Convoys.
On this Sand by the Sea shore is y^e Spaw well w^{ch} people frequent,
and all the diversion is y^e walking on this sand twice a day at y^e Ebb
of the tide and till its high tide and then they drink. Its something
from an Iron or Steele minerall but by means of the tide flowing on it
Every tyme. Especially spring tydes it Covers y^e well quite—and
allwayes flowes up just to it, w^{ch} Leaves a brackish and saltness
w^{ch} makes it purge pretty much, but they say y^e Spring is so quick
that it soone Casts off y^e Sea water; but in my opinion is y^t the
whole spring and all the Springs that Bubble up all over the sands must
be agreable and of the sort of water the sea is, being so just on the
sea side and so neare must be Influenc’d by y^e salt water. It seems to
be a pretty turbulent Sea, I was on it in a little boate but found it
very rough even just in y^e harbour, I suppose the Cause may be from
standing so open to y^e Maine. The town has abundance of Quakers in it,
most of their best Lodgings were In quakers hands, they Entertain all
people, soe in Private houses in the town by way of ordinary, so much a
Meale and their Ale. Every one finds themselves—there are a few Inns for
horses only. I was at a quakers meeteing in the town where 4 men and 2
women spoke one, after another had done, but it seem’d such a Confusion
and so inCoherent that it very much moved my Compassion and pitty to see
their delusion and Ignorance and no less Excited my thankfullness for
the Grace of God that upheld others from such Errors. I observ’d their
prayers were all made on the first person and single, though before the
body of people; it seems they allow not of ones being the mouth of y^e
Rest in prayer to God tho’ it be in the publick meetings. In this town
we had good accomodations and on very Reasonable terms. They drye a
large ffish Like Codlings and salt them and when you dress them, water
them; then they string them on wire, and so Rost them before the fire
and make good sauce for them, they Eate very well and as tender as a
fresh Codling and very sweete iff they were well cured when they were
first taken, Else they will taste stronge.
Thence we went to Maulton 14 miles w^{ch} is a pretty large town built
of Stone but poor; there is a large market place and severall great
houses of gentlemens round the town. There was one M^r Paumes that
marry’d a relation of mine Lord Ewers Coeheiress who is landlady of
almost all y^e town. She has a pretty house in the place. There is the
ruins of a very great house w^{ch} belonged y^e family but they not
agreeing about it Caused y^e defaceing of it. She now makes use of y^e
roomes off y^e outbuildings and gate house for weaving and Linning
Cloth, haveing set up a manuffactory for Linnen w^{ch} does Employ many
poor people. She supply’d me w^{th} very good beer, for y^e Inn had not
the best. Thence to York 14 miles, and so to Tadcaster 8 mile, thence to
Aberfford 4 miles all on a heavy bottom, their miles are long and I
observe the ordinary people both in these parts of Yorkshire and in the
northern parts Can scarce tell you how farre it is to the next place
unless it be in the great towns, and there in their publick houses, and
they tell you its very good yate Instead of Saying it is good way, and
they Call their gates yates, and do not Esteem it uphill unless so steep
as a house or precipice; they say its good levell gate all along when it
maybe there are Severall great hills to pass, but this account did
Encrease on us the nearer we Came to Darbyshire, but in Generall they
Live much at home and scarce Ever go 2 or 10 mile from thence Especially
the women, so may be term’d good housekeepers. To Aberford we Came by
severall pretty Seates in view, we Lay at an acquaintances house M^{rs}
Hickeringalls: thence we went to Castleton Bridge 5 mile, where was a
glass house; we saw them blowing white glass and neale it in a large
oven by the heate of y^e ffurnace. All the Country is full of Coale and
the pitts are so thick in y^e roade that it is hazardous to travell for
strangers.
Thence to Pomffret 3 miles w^{ch} Looks very finely in the approach. Its
built on a hill all of stone, its a very neate building and y^e streets
well pitch’d and broad, the houses well built and looks more stately
than any in York, only its not the tenth part so bigg, its a neate
little town as I have seen. there are severall very good houses in it,
one Doct^r Burgess has built a very good house w^{ch} is Call’d his
ffolly. There is a noble house at the Entrance of the town of y^e Lady
Grace Perpoynt, and good Parke Gardens and walks and a great revenue
belonging to it,—the Daughter of the Marquis of Dorchesters. There is a
ffine Church in the town and as spacious a market place as is at
Salisbury or as you shall see any where, and the building so Even and
uniforme as well as Lofty that it appears very magnificent—its a Major
town. We were in the Chief Inn the Sunn, tho’ there are many good Inns,
but this was a very good Genteel jnn and it happen’d the Landlord was
then Major of y^e town.