Shipps, y^e Roomes Spacious for Length and Breadth but not high. There
was a large Chappel and Cabbin with Damaske furniture. The Castle at
Portsmouth is not Great—its Rather Called the Kings house where is a
Great deal of armes. I was in the Dineing Roome where King Charles y^e
Second met Queen Katherine and was marryed to her and set the crown on
her head. There from that roome out of double doores goes a long wooden
bridge to the Plattforme; just by is South sea Castle which is wash’d
round by y^e sea and pretty deep water att Spring tides, it Looks very
fine but think its but of Little Strength or Service. Above the town is
a very fine down Called Porchester down very pleasant for Sports Hawking
and hunting; 6 mile over this down is Southwicke, Coll: Nortons a good
old house Capable of being Made ffine, Large Garden room—Woods and
Grounds Lying well about it and a good Warren, Coppices and y^e Stately
G^t Timber trees as may be seen. He was an old officer in the Long
parliam^t service—this is 15 mile from Winchester and from Winchester to
South-hampton is ten miles; that is a very neate clean town and the
Streets well pitch’d and kept so, by their Carrying all their Carriages
on Sleds as they do in holland, and permit no Cart to go about in y^e
town, and keep it Clean Swept—this was formerly more strictly observ’d
when the town was full of trade, for it is a good port, but now y^e
trade has failed and y^e town almost forsooke and neglected. Its a place
of No Strength now, by reason of y^e Castle being ruined and the
fortifications neglected and the Gunns taken thence, tho’ by most its
thought the best scittuated port for Shipps to Ride and take their
provision in and so Capable of tradeing; but the last 2 Reignes for near
40 year discourag’d it being a proper place for the french to have
Seiz’d and Secured for themselves. About 3 Leagues off is Cashot Castle
just out into the Sea w^{ch} does Encompasse it all but a very little
point of land Called Horsy Beach that runnes out into the New forrest by
Bewly w^{ch} was an abby in the fforest, for the Extent of y^e fforrest
is large—Miles long; All round Casholt Castle on the Beach itts as full
of fine Cockle shells so that they heap them up all round the Castle
Like a wall.
It was at South-hampton King Philip Landed when he Came to marry Queen
Mary. Ffrom thence its 6 miles to Rumsey, and the Road Runns just by a
ffine house of one of my Relations S^r John S^t Barbe’s; the Rows of
trees in the avenues runns just from y^e Road to the front of the house.
You Enter a Court thats wall’d in and blew Iron gates. The Court has a
Round in the Middle rail’d in, designed for a Bowling Green, and the
Coaches drive round it to Come to the Entrance w^{ch} is severall stone
Stepps to a broad Space that is railed w^{th} Balls and Banisters: the
Space is paved w^{th} broad free stone the stepps y^e Same 8 or 10. The
house is a halfe Roman H. Y^e hall is in the Middle w^{th} double
doores, its very lofty and large there’s a Chimney just against the
Entrance on the Right hand, runns in an Entry through the house to the
back yard, where are the offices, Still house and Barnes and Coach
houses and a very ffine Stable built of Brick—there are large
partitions. In this Entry you have the pantry and Cellars and on the
other side y^e Kittchin Larders and pastry w^{ch} is one wing of the
house and just behind the hall is y^e Servants hall and a Little parlour
just by the pantry and back staires. Then the great hall is divided in
halfe by the Staircase, w^{ch} hangs on its own work not supported of
Either Side, to the first half pace and all the way up without Support,
on the one Side they are of oake, the railes and Banisters are
varnished. The halfe paces are Inlaid w^{th} yew wood w^{ch} lookes a
yellowish Red in Squaires; they Land on the next Story with a space of
this Inlaid worke of a good Bigness the whole Compass of y^e Staircase.
The Roofe of the Staires is even w^{th} y^e Roofe of y^e next Story; on
the other side of the Staires are severall Rows of Pillars of wood
Painted Like Marble for to walke between, and you pass quite under the
Staires into a Little Closet, and a little farther into a back yard
where is a Bathing house and other necessarys. There is a screen stands
on the side of the Staires next the Chimney to make that part more
private. Y^e hall Runns quite through to the Garden where there is a
door w^{th} stepps down and so at this door you see thro’ the house to
y^t back yard I mentioned at y^e End of the Entry. The other wing of y^e
house is a large parlour and drawing Roome, this is out of the hall by
the Garden; the hall is well painted and a Carved Cornish round and
pillars on the wanscoate round the Roome. The parlour is wanscoated and
painted a Cedar Coullour. The next Story you Enter of this large halfe
pace on the Right hand, into a door w^{ch} Leads fore Right to a
Balcony, and on the Left hand into a passage, w^{ch} leads to the
Chamber over the drawing Roome, and by it is a Servants Roome Even
w^{th} y^e passage. On the Right hand is a passage Leads to Another
Roome just over against—open the doores and there is a perfect visto, so
there is the other way and a servants roome even w^{th} y^e passage;
beyond this roome is a back Stair Leads to the bath, and by y^e Servants
Roome is a large back Staire that Leads to the Next Story, the Great
staires Ending here, and on the Left hand they lead into a large dineing
Roome &c.—then a drawing Roome and next a bed Chamber w^{ch} has a back
doore to the back Staires by y^e kitchin. These doores open through to
y^e End one way the best bed Chamber and quite to the balcony y^e other
side a visto.
Within the dineing roome on ye Left hand is a very Largo bed Chamber
w^{ch} jndeed is y^e best—good tapistry hangings—here is design’d a
velvet bed its painted white; there are very good Pictures; here is a
Little back Staires to y^e Servants hall. The dineing Roome is
wanscoated and varnish’d the other Roomes nothing done to—that is the
drawing Roome and Chamber. W^{th} in there is damaske, and Camlet beds
in y^e other Roomes, and off these back Staires by y^e Kitchin is a
Chamber, anty Roome, dressing roome, 2 Closets These back staires goe up
to the next Story y^t Leads to the roomes over this, and to a long
Gallery that is Window all to the ffront and Leads to all y^e Chambers.
There is handsome roomes only those at y^e Side and End are Garret
fashion—between are Servants roomes and Closets: thence a little pair of
Stairs Leads up to the Gallery and thence up to the Cupilow which is in
the Middle of the house, all Windows round and on y^e top has a Gold
ball that holds severall Gallons. On each Wing there are 2 little
towers, one has y^e Clock the other a Sundial, and on the top two gold
balls of a Lesser size. The Gardens are walled in, some with brest
walls, some higher with flower potts on them; severall places with open
grates to Look through with Stone balls or ffigures on the pillars each
Side the Gates everyway. There is a water house that by a Wheele Casts
up the Water out of y^e River just by, and fills y^e pipes to Serve all
y^e house and to fill y^e bason designed in the middle of the Garden
w^{th} a Spout in the middle.
The Gardens are not finish’d but will be very ffine, w^{th} Large Gates
open to y^e Grounds beyond, some of w^{ch} are planted with trees. Its a
fine thing, but doubt its no very good aire—it stands in a low place
near y^e River, the hills all round on y^t Side and y^e Mold and Soyle
is Black and such as they Cut up for peate. The road from hence to
Salisbury is by White Parish and Joy Church and you come in Sight of my
Lord Coal-rain house that Looks Like a good Building of Stone, but its
just so upon the Great River that it lookes Like a Little Castle or
Shipp. This river runns to Breamore from Salisbury just by a very fine
Seat of y^e Lady Brooks which was S^r W^m Doringtons heir. The house
Stands finely to the River a brick building. You Enter into a Walled
Court Soe up 12 Stepps at Least into a Noble hall: on the Left hand was
a parlour, and on y^e Right a large drawing roome a Little parlour and
Large Staires up to Severall very handsom Chambers ffurnished with good
Tapistry and damaske and some velvets, w^{ch} was new because the fire
had Spoiled most of the goods; but the house was built just in y^e same
ffigure. The Kitchins and offices are all under y^e roomes of State and
they go down Steps to it Under y^e Arch of Stepps that ascend to the
hall: out of the drawing roome by Glass doors you enter the Garden on a
terrass and y^t by Stepps, so to Severall Walks of Gravel and Grass and
to the Gardens, one below another with Low Walls to give the view all at
once. Here was fine flowers and Greens Dwarfe trees and oring and Lemon
trees in Rows w^{th} fruite and flowers at once and some ripe; they are
y^e first oring trees I ever Saw. Here are Stately woods and walks. This
River Runns to ffording bridge A Little place, thence to Kingwood,
thence to Christchurch; it turns many Great Mills and there have been
great attempts to make it Navigable w^{ch} would be of Great advantage,
but all Charge has been Lost in it. There is Store of good ffish in it;
it runns to Christchurch and divides the new fforest from Wiltshire,
there is a large Bridge that crosses at Christchurch where it runns into
the Sea. This is 18 miles from Salisbury 20 miles from Newtontony over
y^e down, 6 to Rumsy 4 to Lockerly two to East Titherly where S^r
ffrancis Rowles has a fine house and Garden and Groves. One on the Edge
of y^e hill, all in sight of y^e Road Looks ffinely of Scott and
Norroway ffirrs in Rows and Looks very well. In 2 mile of this is Dean
w^{ch} was S^r John Evlings, now his Grandsons Lord Kingston, it seems
to be a good Lofty Building, its woody and very ffruitfull. There is
Likewise a good old seate of M^r Whiteheads my grandfathers, Normans
Court in West Titherly; its well wooded, good Gardens, but a very old
house; a ffine Grove of ffirrs to y^e ffront. This is 7 mile from
Newtontony and as much to Stockbridge w^{ch} is y^e Road to London;
thence to Sutton 12 miles, thence to Basinstoake 12 mile. Its a Large
town and has a good trade being a Road. A mile thence is Basin on y^e
Left hand w^{ch} was a house of y^e Duke of Boltons, but being a
Garrison in y^e Civil warrs was pulled down and Now only some part
remaines, and the Gardens w^{ch} are improved and new walls built: fine
fruit and vineyards, a large parke to it. On y^e Right hand about a mile
off is Hackwood which is another Seate of y^e Duke of Boltons in a
pretty parke. It looks very pretty not large. Basinstoake Lyes watrish
but its on Chalke. A little further on y^e Left hand at some distance
you see a fine Seate of S^r Robert Henleys, it looks Like a little town,
its so large a building, and they say its a noble thing ffinished and
furnish’d very well with good Gardens.
To Harfordbridge 8 mile thence to bagshott 8 mile a heavy sandy way, and
y^e Same from thence to Egam 8 mile; thence to Staines a mile, where we
Cross y^e Thames on a bridge and enter Middlesex—thence to London 15
miles.
I went to see Hampton Court 10 mile from London; it looks Like a little
town y^e buildings runn so great a Length on y^e ground, Y^e old
buildings and y^e New part w^{ch} King William and Queen Mary built. Y^e
Queen took Great delight in it. Y^e new was but just y^e shell up and
some of y^e Roomes of State Ceil’d but nothing ffinished. The roomes
were very Lofty, round a Large Court and all the appartments intire. The
old buildings were on the other side the prioy Garden: there was the
water Gallery that opened into a ballcony to y^e water, and was decked
with China and ffine pictures of y^e Court Ladyes drawn by Nellor.
Beyond this came severall Roomes, and one was pretty Large, at y^e four
Corners were little roomes like Closets or drawing roomes, one pannell’d
all w^{th} jappan, another w^{th} Looking Glass, and two w^{th} fine
work under pannells of Glass. There was the queens Bath and a place to
take boat in the house. The Gardens were designed to be very ffine,
Great fountaines and Grass plotts and gravell walkes, and just against
the middle of y^e house was a very large fountaine, and beyond it a
large Cannal Guarded by rows of Even trees that runn a good way. There
was fine Carving in the Iron Gates in the Gardens w^{th} all sorts of
ffigures, and Iron spikes Round on a breast wall and severall Rows of
trees.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
_HERE BEGINS MY NORTHERN JOURNEY IN MAY 1697_
ffrom London to Amwell Berry in Hartfordshire 19 mile, thence to Bishops
Startford in Essex 13 mile, w^{ch} is a very pretty Neat Market town, a
good Church and a delicate spring of Water w^{ch} has a wall built round
it, very Sweet and Cleare water for drinking. There is a little river
runns by the town y^t feeds severall Mills.
Thence we Went to Andlyend 10 miles, a house of y^e Earle of Sussex
w^{ch} makes a Noble appearance Like a town, so many towers and
buildings off stone within a parke w^{ch} is walled round. A good River
runs through it, we pass over the bridge. Its built round 3 Courts,
there are 30 great and Little towers on the top, and a great Cupilow in
the Middle. The roomes are Large and Lofty with good Rich old ffurniture
tapistry, but Noe beds in y^t part we saw. There are 750 (150?) Roomes
in the house.
The Cannall in the Midst of the parke Look’d very fine, its altogether a
Stately palace and was built for one of y^e Kings. Thence to
Little-berry one Mile, where is a house with abundance of Curiosityes
all performed by Clock work and Such like, w^{ch} appears very Strange
to the beholders, but the master was not at home so I saw no more than
the Chaire they Set in when they are Carry’d about. All the Country is
pleasant; between this and Cambridge you go in sight of so many neate
villages w^{th} Rows of trees about them and very neate built
Churches—Sometimes 5 or 6 of these are in view together in 3 or four
mile of Each other—Y^e Churches are stone-work. We went to Babaram where
was a house of S^r Rich^d Bennets in a pleasant parke prettyly situated,
only it is in a Low ground, but y^e fine Rows of trees in the severall
avenues Came just down to the Road: thence to Bornbridge 5 mile, thence
to Hodmogoge hills 3 miles, w^{ch} looks at a distance Like a long Barn,
but when you approach Near you see it a Great fortification or Ruines of
a Castle, with great trenches one within another, and all y^e
buildings—there is only a long string of Stables to keep y^e Kings
hunting horses. The hill is of a great height from whence you have a
great prospect of y^e whole Country and of Cambridge w^{ch} is 3 mile
off. The town Lyes in a bottom and Marshy Ground all about it severall
miles w^{ch} is Garnish’d with willows; y^e buildings are old and
Indifferent. the Streetes mostly narrow, (except near the Market place),
w^{ch} is pretty spacious—there stands the University Church. Trinity
Colledg is the ffinest, yet not so Large as Christchurch College in
oxford. In the first Court there is a very ffine ffountaine in the
Middle of y^e Quadrangle w^{th} a Carved top and Dials round—there are
Large Cloysters. The Library runns all y^e rang of building at y^e End
and stands on 3 rows of stone pillars; it opens into the Gardens and
walk w^{th} 3 Large Gates or doores of Iron Carv’d very ffine w^{th}
fflowers and Leaves. The river runs at y^e back side of most of y^e
Colleges; they have fine stone bridges over it and gates that Lead to
fine walks; Y^e rivers name is Cam.
The Library farre exceeds that of Oxford, the Staires are Wanscoated and
very large and Easye ascent, all of Cedar wood, y^e room spacious and
Lofty paved w^{th} black and white marble, y^e sides are wanscoated and
decked with all Curious books off Learning, their Catalogue and their
Benefactors. There is two Large Globes at each End w^{th} teliscopes and
microscopes and y^e finest Carving in wood, in flowers, birds, Leaves,
ffigures of all sorts as I ever saw. There is a large Balcony opens at
the End, very large, all finely painted all over y^e history of the New
Testament. Its a hundred and twenty steps to y^e roofe and supported by
noe pillars all Arch of Stone: You walke on y^e Arch or Cradle as its
term’d. There is 32 Little windows Cut in Stone just as you ascend to
y^e Cradle or Arch w^{ch} runns on Either side, and a p^r of Staires of
8 stepps to every 3 windows w^{ch} Lead up to the Arch; thence you
ascend the Leads over all w^{ch} are fine, secured by battlements round,
there are 4 large Spires: at each corner one. On these Leads you May see
a vast Country round.
You see Ely-minster and y^e towers; this is a noble building and Stands
on so advantagious a ground, and so Lofty built y^t its perspicious
above y^e town; this is in Lieu of y^e Theatre at Oxford there being
none here. St Johns College Garden is very pleasant for y^e fine walks
both Close Shady walks and open Rows of trees and quickset hedges. There
is a pretty bowling green with Cut arbours in the hedges. Queens
Colledge is old but a stately and Lofty building. Claire Hall is very
Little but most Exactly neate in all parts, they have walks w^{th} Rows
of trees, and bridges over the river and fine painted Gates into y^e
ffields. Katherine Hall is new built, the Chapple was not Quite
ffinished; the apartments for y^e fellows and Gentlemen Commoners are
very ffine, a Large dineing roome, a good Chamber and good Studdy and
this for 8£ a year.
Here we are Entertained by some of our Companys acquaintance. From
Cambridge we go just by Peterborough: we see the Minster and y^e town,
very plaine all built with Stone. The road is very pleasant to
Ffenistanton, 8 miles to Godmanchester, and from thence Huntington 1
mile. We cross the River Lin over a bridge and so Enter Huntingtonshire.
This river goes to Lin in Norfolke its a very pleasant Country to travel
in in y^e Summer, but after raines its in Some places deep, but the
prospects are delighting; Little town and good Enclosure w^{th} woods
and same of the Country’s. Huntington is but a Small Shire town; just by
it is a house of the Lord Sandwich, y^t it is pretty large. We enter a
good Lofty hall, in it hangs the Ship in w^{ch} he was lost, that is the
representation of it Cut out in Little and all things Exactly made to
it; there is a good parlour and drawing roome: well proportion’d are y^e
rooms w^{th} good old ffurniture and good Pictures. There is a Large
dineing roome above w^{th} good tapistry hangings, and its Ceil’d w^{th}
jrish oake Carv’d with points hanging down like fine ffret worke; this
wood no spider will weave on or endure. There are good bed Chambers with
good furniture and fine pictures; over one of the Chimneys is a fine
picture of Venus were it not too much uncloth’d. The Gardens and
Wilderness and Greenhouse will be very fine when quite ffinished with
the dwarfe trees and gravell walks. There is a large fountaine or bason
which is to resemble that in the privy garden at Whitehall, which will
ffront the house.
The high terrass walks Look out on the Road. all this Country is good
Land and ffruitfull and much like Oxfordshire.
Ffrom Huntington we came to Shilton 10 mile, and Came in Sight of a
great water on the Right hand about a mile off w^{ch} Looked Like Some
Sea it being so high and of great Length: this is in part of the ffenny
Country and is Called Whitlsome Mer, is 3 mile broad and six long. In
y^e Midst is a little jsland where a great Store of Wildfowle breeds,
there is no coming near it; in a Mile or two the ground is all wett and
Marshy but there are severall little Channells runs into it w^{ch} by
boats people go up to this place. When you enter the mouth of y^e Mer it
lookes fformidable and its often very dangerous by reason of sudden
winds that will rise Like Hurricanes in the Mer, but at other tymes
people boate it round the Mer with pleasure. There is abundance of good
ffish in it. This was thought to have been Sea some tyme agoe and
Choak’d up and so remaines all about it for some miles a ffenny Marshy
Ground for those little Rivers that runns into y^e Sea some distance of
miles. Thence to Wangfford 2 miles, thence to Stamfford 5 miles.
We pass over a down where is a Cross that directs three wayes York,
London and Oatly, and here we Come in Sight of a Gentlemans house that
stands finely on a hill in a parke, pretty high with fine groves about
it. A little farther when we are pass’d the water att Wansford we enter
Ruttlandshire w^{ch} seems more woody than y^e others. Stamfford town is
as fine a built town all of stone as may be seen; its on the side of a
hill w^{ch} appears very fine in the approach.
Severall very good Churches with high Spires and towers very
ornamentall, its not very Large, but much ffiner than Cambridge, and in
its view has severall good houses. On the Right hand of Stamfford is a
house of M^r Neals in a pretty neate parke pailed in; y^e house not very
big but Lookes well. On the Side of y^e hill over against Stamfford and
on the Left hand over against the town Stands My Lord of Exeters Burly
house, Eminent for its Curiosity. The Situation is the finest I ever
saw, on the Edge of the hill and severall Rows of trees of severall
acres about it quite to the Road. It stands in a very fine parke w^{ch}
is full of deer and fine Rows of trees. On Either side a very broad
Glide or visto that Lookes finely to y^e River and to the adjacent
hills, a distance, both with fine woods. The town of Stamfford appears
very fine on the Left hand and most noble woods on the Right hand. The
house Looks very nobly; y^e Garden very fine within one another w^{th}
Lower and higher walls deck’d with all Sorts of trees and Greens; very
fine Gravell walks and Grass squaires w^{th} Statues and fine Grass
walks, dwarfs and all sorts of Green trees and Curious things: very fine
fountaines, there is one in the middle of the Garden thats just to y^e
Middle also of the house, that is of an exceeding great size. There is a
fine vineyard, Warren and Groves w^{ch} makes its prospects very
delightfull.
You enter a large Court walled, thence to a Space of Ground pretty
Large, Encompass’d round w^{th} a little wall of a yard High of free
Stone very ffine wrought, on which are to be Iron railes and spires,
that was not ffinish’d nor the space paved which is design’d to be of
broad Stone: all before the house the little breast wall is in a Compass
Like a halfe Moone.