mountains, gardens, a mosque, a khán, a bath, a market, a judge
appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers, an officer of the
janissaries, and a Súbashí. In the woody marsh here, is a long wooden
bridge (causeway) famous all over Arabia and Persia. We marched twelve
hours further on through thick forests, and came to Dúzje-bazár, the
first place belonging to Bolí, in a mountainous region, with a mosque
and two kháns founded by Shemsí Páshá, who also paved the road. In the
neighbourhood are many villages.
West of this place on the side of Akcheshár, and two hours beyond the
river Melán is the place of Úskúbí, a khass of the territory of Bolí,
with a mosque, a khán, and a bath. Nine hours further on we reached
Bolí, conquered in Osmán’s name by Sonkor Baí Shemsí, to whom and to
whose descendants it was given as hereditary property (Ojáklik). Its
castle was built by the Greek Commander of Brússa, it is a small ruined
castle, on a high mountain without vestige of cultivation. According
to the division of Sultán Mohammed II. it is the seat of a sanjak. The
khass of the Beg amounts to three hundred thousand one hundred and
twenty-two aspers, fourteen ziamets, and fifty-five timárs, with the
Jebellis two thousand eight hundred swords. The judge is appointed
with three hundred aspers: five districts belong to it, viz. the
district round the town of Bolí, that of Gokjesúí, that of Sázák Kerde
to the left of Bolí, that of Túrtúr-diván, and that of Yaflije. The
annual revenue is five thousand piastres, and those of the Beg fifteen
thousand. But the judge and Beg are obliged to be very cautious,
because if they commit the smallest injustice, the Rayas can reach
Constantinople in three days, and complain of the oppressor. There is
an officer of the janissaries, of the Sipahís, and a Nakíb-ul-íshráf.
Though the inhabitants are Turcomans, yet there is a great number of
merchants. It is a large town of thirty-four quarters and as many
mosques, three thousand well covered houses, some of which are faced
with bricks; some seraïs and mosques. In the market-place is that of
Mustafa Páshá and of Ferhád Páshá, much frequented; they are both the
work of Koja Sinán the great architect: the best and most pleasant
bath is that of Shemsí: seven kháns, and seven fountains, all founded
by Shemsí Páshá; four hundred elegant shops, but no college or school
of tradition, as far as I know of; but there are seventy schools for
boys, and more than two hundred of whom know the Korán by heart. The
book Mohammedieh is much read here; they have also story-tellers who
recite moral maxims (Oghúz). The mildness of the air contributes to
the beauty of the inhabitants. The women wear Ferrájís and large
head-dresses, they are very decent and modest ladies. There are a
great number of gardens and vineyards. Of its eatables and products
the cherries are the most renowned. The water-cans of fir-tree refresh
those who drink out of them like the living spring; these cans are
called Akasik and Podúch. The inhabitants for the most part are
merchants. The surrounding forests being composed of fir-trees, the
inhabitants live by cutting and making planks of them, which are much
esteemed at Constantinople. Two journies to the west from this place is
the landing-place of Akcheshár; those of Ereglí, Bartín, and Hissárogí,
also belong to the sanjak of Bolí. The hotbath lies to the south,
on the outside of the town; amidst the gardens is a small hotbath,
extremely hot and particularly useful against the itch. It purifies
the stomach and cleanses the body. People of all degrees flock to this
hotbath on waggons.
_Places of Pilgrimage at Bolí._
The convent of Yúzghád Baba near the hotbath. We marched twelve
hours to the east, through cultivated villages to Kerde, the seat of
a Súbashí subordinate to Bolí; a judge with one hundred and fifty
aspers. The town consists of a thousand wooden and brick-built houses
in a large valley, nine quarters, and eleven mosques, besides the
Mesjíds; three convents, three kháns, two hundred shops, and seven
coffee-houses. The knife-cutlers and tanners of Kerde are renowned for
the knives and Safien of this place. The air is pleasant, and the
inhabitants healthy; they are mostly students eager for information
(Súkhte Thalebí). It is a common saying that Kerde is famous for its
thieves, its tanners, and its winter, which is compared to that of
Erzerúm; the inhabitants are a set of lively stout Turks. At the four
points of the compass, and particularly on the south towards Kánghrí,
are cultivated districts inhabited by forty or fifty thousand Turks.
The names of the districts are, Kizíl-úzú, Alaja-úzú, Aleh-diván,
Bir-diván, Ikí-diván, Uch-diván, and so on to seven Diváns, all in the
mountains. The name of Diván given to these districts originated in
the time of Ertoghrúl, who, being named Beg by Ala-ud-dín the Prince
of the Seljúk family, granted to the Infidels, whose districts he
conquered, the privilege of kettle-drums. The name is thus preserved in
seven districts, whose inhabitants are a rebellious people, speaking a
peculiar language of their own.
From Kerde we travelled to the eastward for the space of eight hours,
through cultivated villages, to the village of Bayander in the
district of Bolí, a jurisdiction of one hundred and fifty aspers.
The conquest of these villages situated amongst steep mountains cost
much blood to Osmán. Here are three hundred covered houses, a khán
where every passenger is allowed to stay, and receives wood, straw
and water, gratis. We travelled thence through a straight, called
Hamámlí Bogház, and came with a thousand difficulties at the end of
nine hours to the place Jerkesh, the seat of a Súbashí in the sanjak
of Kánghrí. Here is a judge with one hundred and fifty aspers, an
officer of the janissaries, and Sipáhis. The town consists of three
hundred houses, a mosque, a bath and from forty to fifty shops. Mustafa
Páshá, the sword-bearer to Sultán Murad IV., built a khán here of fifty
fire-places, and one hundred shops, but died before it was finished.
Once a week a great market is held here. Seven hours further on is the
village of Karajalar, a ziámet in the jurisdiction of Kánghrí, three
hundred houses of poor but very obstinate Turks; they will sell a trunk
of a tree forty times over, putting it in the water every night, so
that you may be compelled to lay out ten aspers in brushwood to set it
on fire. A traveller marked one of these trunks by fixing a nail in it,
and when he returned three years afterwards from the siege of Eriván,
they gave him the very same trunk, which he had tried in vain to burn
three years before. Thus they will sell a trunk forty times, and
praise it as being forty years old. They also trade in different small
articles, particularly in girdles, for which Karajalar is renowned.
_Pilgrimage to Habib Karamání._
Habíb was born at Ortakoí near Nikde, and is buried here. He died a
Sheikh of the Beirámí in the reign of Mohammed II. Hamza Efendí was one
of his disciples. We left Karajalar, and after nine hours walk, we
came to Kojhissár a jurisdiction of Kánghrí. Its castle was conquered
in the year 708 by Osmán, and destroyed in order that it should no
longer afford shelter to the Infidels. Nine hours further on, we
reached the town of Tússia, conquered by Mohammed I, the seat of a
Súbashí, and of a judge appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers.
The public officers are a commander of the janissaries (Serdár), an
officer of the Sipáhís (Kiaya-yerí), a Muftí and Nakíb; though it is
a Turkish town, yet there is a great number of learned divines. The
town is situated on an elevation, and consists of three thousand wooden
houses faced with brick, there are eleven quarters, twenty-one mosques,
besides the mesjíds, seven kháns, three hundred and forty shops, and a
Bezestán with an iron gate. The Kúzlí and Leblebí Halwa (two sorts of
sweetmeats) of the place, are famous. The air is heavy; the inhabitants
are Turks, but very kind to strangers. Outside the town in a fine
meadow is the tomb of Sheat Baba Sultán, to which pilgrimages are
performed.
Our road now led for eight hours, amongst the mountains along the
border of the Kizil Irmák (Red river) when we arrived at the village of
Háj Hamza, the companion and disciple of Habíb Karamání; this village
was his birth-place: there remains only an ancient mosque on the great
road, the other houses are in ruins. It is on the banks of the Kizil
Irmák, the opposite shore of which is laid out in elegant gardens. The
Kizil Irmák issues from the mountains of Churúm and enters the Black
Sea near the village of Báfra, where it forms a cascade, the noise of
which alarms men like the rolling of thunder; the river rushes on with
great impetuosity, and is not navigable. Its colour is red both in
winter and summer; it is a cruel water, for, in attempting to cross to
the opposite shore on horseback I was upset with my horse in the middle
of it, and saved with difficulty by getting hold of a willow. We left
Hájí Hamza and continued our road to the eastward among the mountains
and along the Kizil Irmák. The road winds along the rocks at the base
of the high mountain called Sárímáshiklí, so that on the right side are
the cliffs, and on the left a precipice, at the bottom of which flows
the Kizil Irmák, which in some places must be crossed. After eight
hours march we came to the Castle of Osmanjík. Some say that Osmán was
born at this place, and the castle built by his successors. In the year
795 it was taken out of the hands of the Turks by Ilderím Bayazíd. It
is the seat of a Voivode belonging to the sanjak of Chúrúm, and has a
judge with a salary of one hundred and fifty aspers appointed to it;
there is a Serdár and Kiaya-yerí, but no Muftí or Nakíb. There are few
distinguished inhabitants, but a great number of gardens. You cross the
Kizil-Irmák by a bridge to the castle, it is of a strong architecture,
no more than eight hundred paces in circumference, with an iron gate.
As it is situated so amazingly high I did not see the interior, but
only the outer town or suburb, consisting of a thousand old Tátár
houses covered with planks and earth, there are seven quarters and
as many mosques, three kháns, and a small bath, the water of which
is drawn from a well supplied by the Kizil Irmák. On three sides of
the town is sandy ground. Raisins are very sweet here on account of
the heat of the soil. In the sand grows a plant called Kabre (Capers)
which preserved in vinegar is in great use. The poor and almost all the
inhabitants are Dervishes of the order of Hají-Begtásh, because one of
their principal Saints is buried on the west side of the town on an
elevated spot.
_Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint Koyún Baba, (Father of the
Dynasty of the Sheep.)_
He was the true successor of Hají Begtásh. Having appeared to Sultán
Bayazíd, he ordered him to build a cupola on his tomb, a mosque, a
convent, a meeting-place for the Dervishes, (Meidán), a caravanseraï
with kitchen and cellar. All these establishments are covered with
lead, which with the golden crescents on them dazzle the eyes of
beholders even at a distance. The Imaret (kitchen for the poor) is
smoking day and night. As soon as I, poor Evliyá, arrived here, I
went to visit this place of pilgrimage; I kissed the threshold,
saying, “Es-selám aleik,” and entered the tomb, where I read the
Korán, thanking God for the grace he had granted me to visit it. The
cupola is perfumed with musk and amber, which is very agreeable to the
senses of visitors, on whom the keepers of the mausoleum also sprinkle
rose-water. The preacher and the other Dervishes Begtáshí who watch and
pray at the tomb, said prayers on the head of me, poor Evliyá, wishing
me a happy journey, with good sight, and perfect health and happiness
in both worlds. The Dervishes all uttered the Mohammedan shout (Allah!)
and read a Fátihah. When the Sheikh covered my head with his cap,
I felt a wind blowing on both my ears, and my eyes were lighted up
like Arab torches. Since the shipwreck which I had suffered in the
Black Sea, swimming naked for three days and nights, my sight had
suffered cruelly, and was only restored by this head-dress (the Crown
of felicity) being put on my head. I then conversed with all the poor
of the convent, and dined with them, and I have ever since kept the
symbols of Dervishship, which I received at the Convent, viz. the habit
(Khirka); the carpet (Sejáde;) the standard (A’alem); the drum (Tabl
Kúdúmí); the halter (Pálehenk); the stick (Assa); and the head-dress or
crown, (Táj).
Inside of the cupola are different inscriptions by the visitors, to
which I added one of my own composition which suddenly occurred to me.
The name of Koyún Baba was given to this Saint, because when he came
from Khorassán in Hají Begtásh’s company, he bleated like a sheep once
in twenty-four hours, which was the signal for prayer. The Dervishes
of the order of Begtásh are generally in bad repute, but those of this
convent are indeed meek like sheep, devout, pious, praying people, and
in all my travels in Rúm, Arabia, and Persia, I met nowhere a more
worthy convent.
_Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Burhándedeh._
A great Saint renowned for many miracles. The bridge, a work of Bayazíd
II. is a marvellous pile of building of nineteen arches, each arch
gives an idea of the rainbow, of the galaxy, of the girdle of Divine
Power, or of the Ták Kosra. Its length, from one end to the other, is
four hundred and fifty paces; and although the river was so rapid, the
architect built it straight as the bridge of Sirát (over which souls
are to pass on the day of the last Judgment). We halted here for a day,
then again crossing the bridge, and marching towards the west, amidst
frightful mountains, we arrived at the small pass of Direglibíl; which,
if one man only ascends to the top of the rock, and rolls stones down,
he may defend against a thousand men. It is known in all Asia, and
called Diregli-bíl (the pass with trees), because the mountain being
excavated in many places, and threatening to fall down, the rocks are
supported by trees, which were placed there by well-meaning people.
Here our gracious lord the Páshá descended from his horse, and taking
some of the stones out of the road, which encumbered it, himself threw
them down the precipice; this example was instantly followed by the
whole suite, four hundred men, who dismounting, cleared the road of
the stones, shouting Allah, with the clarions sounding. After nine
hours march from Osmánjik, we came to the village Hájíkoï, the frontier
of the sanjak of Amasia, a ruined village, with a khán in ruins,
though it is very well situated for cultivation. Six hours further
on we reached the field of Márziván, and the village of Kerkiráz,
belonging to Amasia, with sixty villages, a mosque, and khán, also
falling into ruins. At the end of eight hours we came to the mountain
town of Amasia, which is said to have been built by the Amalekites,
and, according to others, by Ferhád, the mountain cutter. In the year
476 (1083) it was conquered by Sultán Melek Ghází, of the Dánishmend
family. The princes of Azerbeiján laid siege to it more than once,
without being able to take it. From the hands of the Dánishmend family
it passed into those of the Seljúk. It was then conquered by Sultan
Ilderím, who thus prevented its falling into the hands of Timúr. He
then made his son Issa Chelebi governor, and coins were struck, which
bear the inscription of Amasia, of the purest silver, which is found
in three mines here. At the division of the empire by Sultan Mohammed
II, Amasia is described as the seat of a Beg. It has sometimes been
given as Arpalik to Vezírs of three tails. According to the Kanún,
its khass amounts to two hundred thousand aspers, nineteen ziámets,
and forty-two timárs; it has an Alaï Beg and Cheri-bashí. The Zaims
and Timáriots, with the Jebellí, amount to three thousand men; the
judge has three hundred aspers a day. The districts (Náhie) are those
of Aine-bazár, Kildighán, Aktágh, and Kafála; the jurisdictions those
of Koprí, Samara, Zeitún, Gumish, Búlák, Merzifún, Kerkerár, Ládik,
Veraï, and Zenún-abád. The annual revenue of the judge is valued at
seven thousand piastres, and those of the Páshá at seventy thousand
piastres. Five Súbashis are attached to the khass of the Pásha,
viz., Shehrbáh-bazár, Weraï, Aine-bazárí, Aktágh, and Súliova. Its
magistrates are, the Sheikh-ul-Islám, the Nakíb-ul-ishráf, the Serdár
of the Janissaries, and the Kiayayerí of the Sipahis. There are many
learned divines and rich merchants.
_Form and size of Amasia._
Its towers, crowning the height of the mountains are always veiled with
clouds, and it is only at noon that the spires of the mosques, and the
roofs of the houses are visible. Its circumference is nine thousand
and sixty paces. In form it is a pentagon, extremely strong, worthy
of being a work of Ferhád, with forty-one towers, and eight hundred
battlements altogether. The number of the houses is not known to me.
There are magazines, cisterns, and a road cut in the rock, leading down
to the water, called Chapán Yolí, of three thousand and seven steps. It
has no market-place (Charshú), or market (Bazár). There are four iron
gates looking to the east. In the castle is a mosque built by Sultán
Ilderím, and a marvelously deep dungeon, resembling the pit of hell;
and seventy cannons, but of no great calibre, as it is not a frontier
fortress. This castle has six wonderful caverns, where the rich
inhabitants hid their valuable effects in the time of the Anatolian
rebellions of Kara Yazijí, and Kara Sáid.
Timúr besieged this fortress with an innumerable army for the space
of seven months, and was obliged to retire in confusion. Though it is
situated in the midst of the province, yet a commander (Dizdár) and
a garrison is appointed, lest rebels should gain possession of it.
The lower castle is built on the banks of the river Túzánlí, a small
castle, whose circumference is not known to me. It has three gates, the
first opens towards the Kiblah, Karánlik Kapú; the second Ma’adenos
Kapú, looks in the same direction; and the third, Meidán Kapú, to the
west; from whence a great bridge leads to Gok-medresse, on the opposite
side of the town. The gate Serkíz leads over a wooden bridge to the
mosque of Gháríblar. The number of mosques, palaces, and houses are
six hundred. The river Túzánlí, which passes through the town, issues
from the mountains of the same name above Tokát, passes by Eskí,
Aine-bazár, Kargol, the castle of Túrhál, Chengellí-bíl, Sárikúsún, the
bridge of Davíkaví, Chapán, through the pass of Ferhád to Amasia, where
it joins the river Chekerek, opposite the great stone bridge. This
river springs from the lake of Ladek, comes from Súliova, and joins
the Tuzánlí near Amasia as aforesaid. It is vulgarly called Yava; the
proverb, “Tokát defiles it, Amasia drinks it,” is applied to it because
it flows from Tokát to Amasia. After it has passed Amasia it is called
Chehár Shenbesú (Wednesday’s water), and after irrigating many fields,
it disembogues in the Black Sea, on the western side of Samsún. Below
the village Chehár Shenbeh it is joined by several springs, and below
Nígissár, in the province of Sivás, it receives the river Kerkúk; thus
it reaches Samsún, after having increased its stream by those of seven
other rivers. The town of Amasia is built on both sides of this river,
and on the hills and mountains bordering on it. A bridge worth seeing,
the work of Sultán Bayazíd, crosses it. This river comes to Amasia from
the south, running northward, and turning many mills and water-wheels;
which at Amasia are not less to be praised than those of Hama and
Adana. Amasia is divided into forty-eight quarters of Moslíms, and
five of Christians; there are altogether five thousand houses, besides
palaces.
The Seraï of the Sultán is situated on the banks of the river,
surrounded by delightful gardens, curious trees, and many seats; it
is cultivated by a master gardener (Usta), and fifty gardeners, who
wear yellow caps. The Seraï of Mahommed Páshá is close to the mosque;
within the castle is the Seraï of Sultán Bayazíd, and many others,
faced with brick; there are altogether two hundred and forty mosques.
Among them is the mosque of Bayazíd II. In his youth Bayazíd was first
made governor of Trebisonde, and then of Amasia; his father, Mahommed
II, having died at Máldepeh, he went to Constantinople to ascend the
throne, but gratefully remembering that he was made Emperor at Amasia,
he freed the inhabitants from all contributions, and built this mosque,
one hundred feet square: the mihráb, minber, and mahfil of the Muëzzins
are of elegant workmanship. The cupola is not very large, but adorned,
like those of other imperial mosques, with circles for suspending lamps
and other ornaments. The chronograph on the gate opposite the Kiblah
gives the date of its building, 892 (1486), it has two minarehs, and in
the middle of the court-yard a water-basin for ablutions. The mosque
of Kúchúk Aghá, opposite the river Chekerek; the mosque of Bayazíd
Páshá, covered with lead, and paved with marble; the mosque of Mohammed
Páshá, covered with lead, and one minareh; the mosque of Khizr Elias,
a large building, covered with lead; the mosque of Mekkeme, built of
wood, as also is the minareh; the mosque Fethie, formerly a Christian
church and convent; the mosque of Yogúrch Páshá, who was Vezír to
Mohammed I.; the mosque of Gokmedresse, covered with lead, but without
a minareh; besides a great number of Mesjids. There are ten colleges,
the most elegant of which is that of Sultán Bayazíd; nineteen houses
for reading the Korán; at that of Sultán Bayazíd there are more than
three hundred Háfizes (who know the Korán by heart); ten houses of
tradition; and two hundred schools for boys, some of which are covered
with lead. There are forty convents for Dervishes, the best of which
is that of Jelál-ud-dín Rúmí, and ten dining establishments; at that
of Sultán Bayazíd all the poor dine twice a day. Of the Caravánseraïs,
that of Sultán Bayazíd is covered with lead, as is also that of Bairám
Páshá, the Vezír of Murad IV. The Kháns are lead-covered, with iron
gates, besides those for merchants (Khoja), there are those for single
men (Mújerred); these last have their own gatekeepers, and are shut up
every night, so that those who do not come home before the hour for
closing are not let in, and those who are within cannot go out till the
gates are thrown open in the morning, when every person goes to his
work.
In the market-place (Charshú) there are altogether one thousand and
sixty shops, and one hundred and sixty different workmen, with vaults
of stone like the market place of Brússa. A Bezestán with four iron
gates. The market place is paved with large slabs. There are many
distinguished inhabitants.
_Inhabitants, Language, Dress, Provisions, &c._
The inhabitants are a set of merry jolly fellows, and are all red-faced
and fresh-coloured; their occupation may be thus described;—first,
the Zaims and Timariots and the Páshá’s court; secondly, the divines,
judges, and professors; the Imáms, Khatíbs, Muëzzins, &c.; and
thirdly, the merchants and handicraftsmen. There are many well-bred
highly-finished gentlemen, who speak with great eloquence, but the
dialect of the common people is harsh. The wealthy dress in sable
pelisses and Ferráji of cloth, the middle classes in Bogassin. The
women are Turkish beauties, with well-ranged teeth and words.
From the district of Kághla comes a sort of corn called Dárdevedíshí,
of which most excellent bread is made, called Levásha, Kerde, Chákil;
there are forty sorts of pears, ruby-coloured cherries, and seven sorts
of grapes and quinces, of which a far-famed _robb_ is made, and sent to
Princes as a present.
Sherbet of must, scented with musk; sherbet of quince jelly, which,
on account of its heating quality, is as useful in medicine as terra
sigillata. The sherbets called Khardalie, Búldáklí, are exported into
Persia; a pleasant white beverage.