NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS
IN
EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA,
IN
THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY,
BY
EVLIYA EFENDI.
TRANSLATED FROM THE TURKISH
BY
THE RITTER JOSEPH VON HAMMER,
F.M.R.A.S., &c. &c. &c.
VOL. II.
[Illustration: Colophon]
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR THE ORIENTAL TRANSLATION FUND
OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND;
SOLD BY
WILLIAM H. ALLEN & CO. LEADENHALL STREET.
M.DCCC.L.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL.
CONTENTS.
Page
JOURNEY TO BRUSSA.
Description of the Town and Fortress of Modania 2
Description of the Buildings of Brússa 4
The Public Officers of Brússa ib.
Description of the Imperial and other Mosques 6
The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán
Murád I. 7
The Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I. ib.
The Mosque of Mohammed I. ib.
The Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I. ib.
The Mosque of Emír Sultán 8
The Colleges of Brússa ib.
The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains,
Mills, and Sebíls of Brússa ib.
Praise of the Baths of Brússa 10
Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh
Sultán ib.
Description of the sulphurous hot spring
(Gogurdlí Kaplíjeh) 11
Description of New Kaplíjeh ib.
Description of the Market of Brússa 12
Description of the bridge of Erghándí 13
Description of the Walks and pleasure-places
of Brússa 14
A Dissertation on Mountains 15
Description of the Ice-worm 16
Language, Dress, and Manufactures of the
Inhabitants of Brússa 17
The Climate of Brússa ib.
The Eatables, Beverages and Fruits of Brússa ib.
Visit to the Monuments and Tombs of the
first Ottoman Sultáns 18
Short account of the Conquests of Osmán
Khán 19
Conquests of Sultán Orkhán ib.
Visit to Sultán Orkhán’s Tomb ib.
Notice of Hájí Begtásh, the Great Saint ib.
Short account of Sultan Murád I. 21
Tomb of Sultán Murád I. Khodavendkiár ib.
Short account of Ilderím Báyazíd ib.
Short account of Sultán Mohammed I. 22
Short account of the reign of Murád II. ib.
Tombs of Ottoman Princes 23
Visit to the Tombs of Saints at Brússa 24
JOURNEY TO NICOMEDIA.
Qualities of a Mineral Spring 30
Pilgrimages of Nicomedia 33
JOURNEY TO BATUM AND TREBISONDE.
Description of the Ancient Town of Sinope 36
Description of the Castle of Samsún 39
Description of the Castle of Onia 40
Description of the Town and Ancient Fortress
of Trebisonde, the Capital of the Lezgians 41
Begs of Abaza Tribes 43
The Commanding Officers and Magistrates of
Trebisonde ib.
Praise of the Poets of Trebisonde 44
Form and size of the Town, and description
of its Monuments ib.
Description of the Lower Castle ib.
Description of the Mosques 45
Description of the Scientific Colleges, Baths,
Market-places, &c. 46
Description of the complexion of the Inhabitants
of Trebisonde 47
Occupations, Guilds, &c. ib.
Description of the principal Arts and Handicrafts 48
Eatables and Beverages ib.
Walks of Trebisonde 49
Praise of the River Kosh-oghlán 50
Visit to the Monuments of Sultans and Saints ib.
JOURNEY TO GEORGIA AND MINGRELIA.
Description of Mingrelia 51
JOURNEY TO AZAK (ASSOV.)
Description of the Land of Abáza 52
Specimen of the Abáza Language 58
Specimen of the Sadasha Abáza ib.
JOURNEY TO THE CRIMEA.
Description of the Castle of Baliklava 67
Description of the Convent of Kilghra Sultán 70
Return to Constantinople 73
EXPEDITION AGAINST MALTA IN THE
YEAR 1055 (1645).
Station of Gallipolis 78
Siege of the Fortress of Canea 79
Cause of the Death of Yússúf Páshá 83
JOURNEY TO ERZERUM.
Gebize 89
Praise of the Lake of Sabánja 91
The Station of Khandak-bazárí 92
Places of Pilgrimage at Bolí 93
Pilgrimage to Habíb Karamání 94
Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint
Koyún Bábá 96
Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Burhándedeh 97
Form and Size of Amasia 98
Inhabitants, Language, Dress, Provisions, &c. 100
Of the Walks, and Pilgrimages or Tombs 101
The Town and Castle of Nígíssár 102
The Hot-Spring of Nígíssár 103
Pilgrimages of Nígíssár 104
The Governorship of Erzerúm or Erzenrúm ib.
Pilgrimage of Mama Khatún 107
Description of the Fortress of Erzerúm 108
Description of the great river Euphrates 110
Of the Form and Size of the Fortress of
Erzerúm 111
Praise of the Palaces of Erzerúm ib.
Of the Mosques ib.
Fountains 112
Of the Baths, Kháns, Market-places and
Markets 113
Of the Inhabitants, Climate, Products, &c. ib.
Genealogies of Erzerúm ib.
Description of Mount Egerlí 115
Praise of Balaam, the son of Baúr ib.
Pilgrimages; Tomb of Sheikh Kárzúní 116
Stations of our Military expedition to the
Castle of Shúshík 117
Size and Form of the Fortress Hassan 118
Description of the Hot-baths 119
Size and Form of the Castle of Khinis 120
Description of the Hot-bath 120
Description of the Castle of Shúshek or
Shúshík 121
Size and form of Magú 122
Description of our journey along the Aras to
Persia 123
Curiosities of Uch Kilisse 125
Pilgrimage of Mohammed Sháh’s Tomb ib.
JOURNEY FROM NAKHSHIVAN TO TABRIZ.
Pilgrimage of Riza, the Son of Hossein
Bikara 129
Description of the Capital of Azerbeiján, the
ancient town of Tabríz 133
Description of the Mosques of Tabríz 134
Colleges of Tabríz 135
Praise of the Air and Climate 136
Account of the Persian Crown (Táj) ib.
Arts and Handicrafts, Provisions, Fruits,
Beverages, Gardens, &c. 137
Account of a curious conversation 139
General Praise of Tabríz 140
Bad and reprehensible things in Irán 141
Pilgrimages and Visits in the town of Tabríz 142
Description of the Expedition we undertook
with the Khán to Shám Gházán 143
Description of Merághá 144
Description of Aján 145
Places of Pilgrimage at Erdebíl 147
JOURNEY FROM TABRIZ TO ERIVAN.
Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Shems Tabrízí 149
Description of the Town of Eriván (Reván) 150
Description of the important town of Genje 154
Pilgrimages (or Tombs) of Martyrs ib.
Description of the Castle of Shekí 156
Account of the Tribe of Ettels 157
Pilgrimage of Ashár-bábá 158
Praise of Mount Caucasus ib.
Description of the Town of Shamákhí 159
Description of the Fortress of Bakú 162
Description of our journey from Bakú through
Georgia 163
Description of a Whale with ears like an
Elephant 164
Description of Derbend the Gate of Gates 165
Size and figure of the Castle 166
Description of the Iron Gate ib.
Buildings within the Castle 167
Pilgrimages 168
The Pilgrimage of the Forty ib.
JOURNEY TO GEORGIA.
Description of the Castle of Serír-ul-Allán 169
Tomb of Emír Sultán 170
Description of the old town of Kákht ib.
Description of Georgia or Shúshádistán, viz.:
Betlís 171
Size and Figure of the Fortress 172
Products ib.
The Hot-baths of Tiflís ib.
Description of the Castle of Kúsekht 173
Description of Súrán ib.
Specimen of the Georgian Shúshád Language ib.
Genealogy of the Georgian Kings 173
Description of the Stronghold of Akhaska,
Sultán Selím’s conquest 174
Khas or Revenues of the Sanjak Begs 175
Number of Ziámets and Timárs ib.
Form and size of the Castle of Akhachka 176
Castles of Georgia belonging to the Province
of Chaldir 177
Stations of the Journey from Akhaska to Erzerúm 178
Castles in the neighbourhood of Erdehán ib.
JOURNEY TO ERIVAN IN THE YEAR
1057 (1647).
Journeys on our return 185
JOURNEY TO BAIBURD, JANJA, ISPER,
TORTUM AND AKCHEKALA’A.
Form and size of the Castle 188
Description of the River Jorúgh 189
Pilgrimages ib.
Description of the Castle of Tortúm 190
Size and Shape of the Castle 191
Account of our Inroad into Mingrelia 195
Of the Language of the Mingrelians 197
Moral Reflections 198
Account of our return from Erzerúm to Constantinople
in the month of Zílka’deh 1057
(1647) 199
Our journey to the Castle of Kumákh ib.
Description of the Castle of Kumákh 201
Description of the Castle of Erzenján 202
Praise of the Eatables and Beverages 204
Pilgrimages ib.
Description of the strong Castle of Shín or
Shábín Kara-hissár 205
Description of a Lion 207
Praise of the Alum, called Solomon’s Alum 208
Description of the Castle of Ládík 209
The Walks of Ládík 210
The warm baths of Ládík 211
Description of the Lake of Ládík ib.
Pilgrimages of Ládík 212
Description of Merzifún ib.
Description of the Baths 213
Praise of Pírdedeh ib.
Products 215
Pilgrimage to the Saints of Merzifún ib.
Journey from Merzifún to Koprí 216
Description of the old town and great bridge
of Koprí 217
Description of the town of Gumish 220
Praise of Sheikh Bárdákli-bábá 225
Form of the Castle 227
The Pilgrimages of Karánjí-bábá Sultán ib.
Description of Angora 229
Praises of Hájí Bairám the Saint 231
The Eatables and Products ib.
Pilgrimages 233
Description of the town of Beg-bazárí or
Bebek-bazárí 239
Journey from Beg-bazárí to Constantinople 240
Description of the tomb of the great Saint
Akshems-ud-dín 241
NOTES.
_Note 1, p. 16._—_It is a journey of two days from Brússa to the top._
The summit is easily reached in nine hours, on horseback, the journey
having been accomplished in that time by the Translator, in the company
of Mr. Stratton, the British Minister, and B. Bielfields, the Prussian
Chargé d’affaires, in the year 1804. Evliya evidently places the time
necessary for rest, and Turkish indolence, to the account of the length
and difficulty of the road.
_Note 2, p. 197._—_The inhabitants of Tortúm all assembled to form the
Istikbál (solemn meeting.)_
See Morier’s Travels, First journey through Persia. BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ:
“At two o’Clock we came to Ahmadiéh, at half past two we passed a small
fort called _Khosh Aub_, where a large body of people were waiting our
passage. (In the Journey this is the first notice of the _Istakball_,
which so frequently recurs in the future progress of the mission, as an
honorary assemblage called forth to receive a distinguished traveller,
and to conduct him in his passage.) They were all armed with pikes,
matchlocks, swords, and shields; and gave us two vollies as a salute.
They then advanced to us and being announced by the _Arz-Beg_, wished
us a prosperous journey. They were answered by the usual civility
“_Khosh amedeed_, you are welcome.” As we proceeded our party was
headed by the soldiery. They were commanded by a man on horseback, all
in tatters, who with his whip kept them together, and excited them with
his voice where he wanted them to run. Two of the chosen of the village
performed feats before us on their lean horses, and helped to increase
the excessive dust, which involved us. This party kept pace with us,
until we were again met by a similar host, the van of the little army
who were waiting our reception at Borazjoon: these also fired their
muskets.”
_Note 3, p. 211._—_The river Khalliz._
This was no doubt originally called _Halys_, which seems to have
formerly been the name, not only of this river, but of the whole Kizil
Irmák.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL.
THE
TRAVELS
OF
EVLIYA EFENDI.
JOURNEY TO BRUSSA.
Praise be to God! for before all things it is the duty of men and genii
to praise him, who made the heavens and all the wonders therein, Angels
and Eden, Húrís and Rizwán the guardian of Paradise; who created roses
and daffodils, nightingales and murmuring fountains, pearls and corals;
the moon and the radiant sun: greetings also be to Ahmed the prophet,
who by his family accomplished his divine mission! Praise be to the
Creator! who out of nothing called me into existence and destined me to
obey him, imposing on me the duties of Islám, the prayer, fast, alms
and pilgrimage. In accomplishment of this sacred duty, I, his lowly
servant Evliyá, left my family, and, with the desire of performing the
pilgrimage, first tried my strength by commencing, in the month of
Moharrem 1040, a journey on foot through the environs and quarters of
Constantinople; the account of which is contained in the first volume
of these travels. My ardent wish was to see Jerusalem and Baghdád,
Mecca and Medina, Cairo and Damascus, according to my dream related
in the introduction to the first volume of these travels, when the
prophet appeared to me in the night, and I, by a slip of the tongue,
said to him, instead of the usual form, _Shifá’at yá ressúl-allah_
(Intercession, O envoy of God) _Siyáhat yá ressúl-allah_ (Travelling, O
envoy of God) and he, graciously smiling, granted my wish.
“Whatever God willeth, he prepares the means for its accomplishment.”
Thus ten years after this dream, when I came to the house of my
friend Okjí Zádeh Chelebí, I found that preparations were made for a
journey to Brússa. He invited me to be his companion according to the
maxim, “First the companion, then the road;” and said, “Let us spend
a fortnight in visiting all the remarkable monuments at Brússa: the
tombs of the Ottoman Sultáns, particularly that of the great Saint
Emír Sultán, and by this visit illuminate our hearts.” I accepted this
proposal as a divine inspiration, saying, “in God’s name!” to which all
present responded, giving us their best wishes for a prosperous journey.
For the first time then, without the knowledge of my family, I set out
on this journey, in the year 1050, accompanied by twenty friends in
a boat of Modania, leaving the town of Constantinople, the place of
my birth, with the intention of seeing other towns and villages. The
present volume gives an account of this journey, which I undertook in
consequence of the verse of the Korán, “Travel therein safely day and
night,” and describes all the hardships I underwent; for according to
the tradition of the prophet; “A journey is a fragment of hell.” We
weighed anchor at Emírgúneh, on the Bosphorus, and called at Findiklí
to take on board as passengers some clever ship-builders; and in the
morning on the first Friday of Moharrem of the year 1050, the boatmen
finding the time favourable for sailing, unfurled the sails and
weathered the point of the Seraglio; laying the ship’s head towards
Brússa, the object of our voyage. All the passengers were in high
spirits, and some of them implored the Lord’s assistance for a happy
voyage by singing spiritual songs. Some Musicians encouraged me to
accompany them in their strains, and so, after having preluded awhile,
I fixed on the measure girdánieh, and sung three tetrasticks and one
sumáyí of the compositions of Dervísh Omerbesteh. Several of the
boatmen accompanied us on their instruments, chokúr, with such effect,
that water came into the mouths of the hearers with delight. Amidst
these amusements we came to the island of Heibelí (Prince’s Islands),
eighteen miles distant from Constantinople, and nine in circumference;
it contains a famous Convent which is visited every year by many boats
from Constantinople. The inhabitants are all wealthy Greeks, captains
and masters of ships. The public officers are the Bostánji-báshí (of
Constantinople) and an officer of the Janissaries. From hence we
weighed anchor with a brisk gale, the vessel cutting the waves with
a rapidity as though fire was bursting forth from it, and after five
hours’ sailing landed happily on the coast of Modania.
_Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Modania._
It was built by a Greek Princess called Modína. Here I was first
enabled to perform my Friday’s prayer, which I did with great devotion,
and then went forth to view the town. It is the port of Brússa, and
forms a safe harbour, being closed against the wind from seven points
and open only to the North. The anchorage is excellent. At the head
of the harbour stands the custom-house, the lease of which amounts to
a million aspers. The town is built by the sea-shore, on a low rocky
ground. Prince Orkhán, with his father Osmán’s permission, conquered
this town in the year 721 (1321) and destroyed the walls in several
places, that it might no longer afford shelter to the infidels. It
is governed by a Voivode, subordinate to Brússa, the chief seat of
the Sanjak of Khodávendkiár. The judge is appointed with one hundred
and fifty aspers a day. His annual revenue amounts to two thousand
piastres. This appointment is sometimes given to the Mollá of Brússa
as Páshmáklik (pin-money). The houses are all faced with brick. There
are three mosques (jámí) and seven mesjids, three kháns, one bath,
two schools for boys, and two hundred small streets; but no room for
reading the Korán or tradition, because the greater number of the
inhabitants are Greeks. There are fine gardens producing superior figs
and grapes. From the excellence of its vinegar, it has acquired the
name of Dárkhill (vinegar-house). South-east of the town we passed on
horseback continuously through gardens and the cultivated field called
Filehdár. The river Nílúfer, not fordable in the beginning of spring,
is a clear stream, which issuing from the mountains Rúhbán, Ketelí and
Castel, waters the valley of Fillehdár and disembogues into the White
Sea. The main road crosses it over a handsome bridge, each arch of
which resembles the arch of heaven; its name, as well as that of the
river, was received from its builder the Princess Nílúfer, daughter
of a Sultán (Orkhán): after continuing our journey among gardens and
vineyards for two hours, we reached the town of Brússa, the emporium of
silk, the ancient capital of this country (Bithynia).
The town of Brússa having been built towards the North on natural
rocks has no ditch, but on the side of the head fountain (Búnár-báshí)
and the quarter of the Mills, it has a deep one, which at the time
of the Asiatic rebellions of Kará Yazijí, Kallender and Sa’íd Arab
was filled up. Some of the stones of the walls are of the size of the
cupola of a bath, and some bear Greek inscriptions on them. The town is
protected against southerly and easterly winds from its being situated
at the foot of Mount Olympus. The houses have a northern aspect and
look over the plain of Filehdár. The fortress, the circumference
of which is eleven thousand paces, has six thousand battlements,
sixty-seven towers, and four gates, viz. the gate of the head fountain,
the prison-gate, the hot-baths’-gate to the west, and the gate of
the fishmarket. This stronghold was besieged more than once by the
Seljúkians, who came with an army of twenty thousand men; the siege
lasted between seven and eight months, the besiegers retiring only
on the approach of winter. Osmán the founder of the Ottoman dynasty
besieged it three times, but was compelled on the last occasion by an
attack of the gout to retire to Iconium. He sent his son Orkhán with
Sheikh Hájí Begtásh, who renewed the siege, and built two great towers,
one at the side of the hot-baths (Kaplijah), and the other on the
side of the head fountain (Búnár-báshí), which took seven months to
complete. Orkhán posted himself at the hot-bath, his nephew Timúr-beg,
at the head-fountain, and Yalabánjik-beg at the mountain’s side. It
surrendered in 722 (1322) after a year’s siege, and Osmán died at the
moment he received the news. Orkhán his successor entered Brússa with
Hájí Begtásh, there fixed his residence, and buried his father’s body
in the castle. Osmán conquered seventy towns during the lifetime of
his father Ertoghrúl. His first conquest was in Kojá-Ilí by Akcheh
Kojá. Near Nicæa at the castle of Wáilakabád, he begat his son Orkhán
on Sheikh Edebáli’s daughter, who was related to the prophet, so that
the Ottoman Sultáns are Seyyids or Sherífs on the mother’s side. Sheikh
Túrsún their first divine was a relation of Sheikh Edebáli, and said
the first prayer from the pulpit in Sultán Osmán’s name. Brússa soon
became populated by mussulman colonists from all quarters.
_Description of the Buildings of Brússa._
The interior of the fortress contains two thousand houses, and many
high palaces, but no gardens, there are seven quarters and as many
mosques, one bath and twenty shops. The mosque of Sultán Orkhán is
one hundred and ten feet square, with a mináreh of one story. Sultán
Orkhán lies buried here, and the large drum called Orkhán’s drum is
suspended in this mosque; it was used during Sultán Orkhán’s reign. The
palace in the castle was the residence of the early Ottoman Emperors
to the time of Mohammed II., who removed to Constantinople; Sultán
Murád I. having previously resided at Adrianople. Since Brússa has had
its own Bóstánjí-bashí (like Constantinople) the streets of the castle
are paved with large stones, and in some places stones are found with
inscriptions of the time of the Infidels, by which may be ascertained
how long the houses have been built; they are all built of stone,
faced with brick, and have a kind of sexangular chimneys to let out
the smoke, which look very well. In some places also grow cypress-nut
trees and vines, and from the elevation of the ground, the air is very
wholesome.
_The public Officers of Brússa._
The first is the Páshá of the Sanják, Khodavendkiár, appointed with
a revenue of 618,079 aspers kháss. There are four hundred and twenty
fiefs called ziámet and one thousand and five tímárs. The feudal
militia is commanded by an Aláï-beg, Cherí-báshí and Júz-báshí, and
assemble at the Páshá’s command in time of war. The Páshá leads five
hundred men of his own. The judge (Mollá) is appointed with 500
aspers, and is promoted from hence to the posts of Adrianople and
Constantinople, it is a high office, valued annually at forty thousand
piastres. Seven Náíbs (deputies) in the town are subordinate to the
Mollá. The five other districts are those of Kíná, Fileh, Abolonia,
Castel, and Chokúrjeh. The civil officers are, a Chokádár of the
janissaries, a chamberlain (Kápújí-báshí); the commanding officer of
the janissaries, the colonel of the armourers (Jebejí), the officer
of the Sípáhís (Kiayá-yerí); the Muftí, the head of the Sherífs, the
inspector of the silk, of the custom-house, the Voivode of the town and
the provost, who all have power of life and death.
The lower town was fortified in the time of Mohammed III. the conqueror
of Erla against the Anatolian rebels Kará Yazíjí, Kalender-oghlí,
Delí Hassán, and Jennet-oghlí, but it is not very strong; it extends
from East to West to the foot of Mount Olympus for the length of one
farsang and the breadth of half a farsang. The circuit is fifteen
hundred paces, the walls are not very high. There is but one ditch near
the gate of the Tátárs and no where else, and there is no need of it,
because if an enemy were to dig approaches, water would rush up in the
trenches. Guns and falconets are mounted on the towers, which are fired
on festivals; there is no other garrison than the doorkeepers, but
there are six thousand guards in the town. The gates are of iron and
above each are towers whence grenades and stones may be thrown on the
besiegers. The gate of the Tátárs opens to the East, that of Filehdár
to the North; and that of Hassan Páshá towards the Kiblah. There are
twenty-thousand large and small houses built in the ancient style; the
most conspicuous of all is the ancient residence of the Emperors, in
the upper town or fortress, it has three baths and three hundred rooms,
but no garden on account of the narrowness of the place. There are in
the whole town one hundred and sixty-six quarters of Moslims, seven of
Armenians, nine of Greeks, six of Jews, and one of Copts. The quarter
of the Meskins (Lepers) is a separate quarter leading to the road of
Sultán Murád. The upper part of the town with Mount Olympus rising in
the background is beautiful when seen from the plain of Filehdár, an
hour’s distance from it, and I can truly say that I have seen nothing
like it during my travels. Brússa is a very devout town, abounding with
Divines, expounders of the Korán and keepers of tradition, who are
found no where else so numerous, excepting at Baghdád. Mount Olympus
at the back of the town on the south side is a mine of living water,
no less than one thousand and sixty well-known springs flow from it,
and supply water in abundance to the palaces and houses. It abounds
also in all kinds of flowers, particularly in syringa (Erghiwán), the
annual assembly of Emír Sultán held in the season when the syringa is
in perfection being much celebrated. The inhabitants being fair, the
air good, the water full of holiness, contribute altogether, to render
Brússa one of the most delicious spots on earth.
_Description of the Imperial and other Mosques._
There are in all one thousand and forty places of worship, three
hundred and fifty-seven of which are mosques of Sultáns, Vezírs, and
other great men. The first is the great mosque Ulú-jami’í built by
Ilderím Báyazíd, on an airy elevated spot of Brússa, it is supported
within by large square pillars, the bases of which are gilt and painted
to the height of a man, with inscriptions, such as, _Yá Hannán_, “O all
gracious!” _Yá Mennán_, “O all merciful,” _Yá Diyán_, “O all faithful!”
_Yá Hassán_, “O all beautiful!” and other names of God. The letters
of these inscriptions are three cubits high; nineteen cupolas covered
with lead and crowned with golden crescents are supported by these
pillars. The twentieth cupola is placed on the centre of the mosque,
and is left open so that light and air may enter, but birds and animals
are shut out by a grating of brass wire. Directly beneath this cupola
is a round basin of water, wherein fish are swimming and whence the
Moslim community take the water necessary for their ablutions. The
pulpit made of black nut is skilfully carved and chiselled with flowers
and arabesques of all kinds. It must be absolutely seen, for it is so
wonderful that it cannot easily be described, and has no equal any
where except at Sinope on the Black Sea. The mahfil or place where
the Muëzzins repeat the proclamation of prayer, is painted with great
art. The mosque is lighted by glass windows on the four sides, and the
floor covered with carpets which are not found elsewhere because this
mosque is so richly endowed. It is nightly lighted by seven hundred
lamps, and is crowded with people at all hours, because no less than
seventy lectures are read here on scientific subjects to two thousand
scholars. The distance from one of the side-gates to the other is three
hundred and fifty feet, and from the Kiblah to the mihráb one hundred
and eighty feet; it has three gates. On the left side, the gate of the
Emperor’s oratory (mahfil), the gate of the Kiblah (opposite to the
mihráb), and on the right side, the gate of the Mehkemeh. Outside of
the Kiblah-gate is a stone bench; it has no great courtyard like other
mosques, but a small one, in the centre of which the Muftí Abdul-azíz
Efendí has built a basin with water-pipes.
On the right and left are two high brick mináreh, and at that of the
Mehkemeh-gate is a fountain (_jet d’eau_), the water of which comes
from Mount Olympus, but it is now in ruins, the pipes having become
decayed by age. When it rains the water collects in the basin of this
fountain on the top of the Mináreh, and the birds flock hither to
drink. In short there is no more holy mosque than this in Brússa; it is
the Ayá Sofía of Brússa, and has therefore been described the first,
but the first consecrated in chronological order, was that of Orkhán in
the upper castle.
_The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán Murád I._
On the west side of Brússa at half an hour’s distance, in a separate
suburb called Eski Kaplijah is Sultán Murád’s mosque, built in a
peculiar style, because the architect was a Frank. The lower part is
devoted to worship, the upper devoted to science, is distributed into
rooms for students, so that each may follow the Imám’s directions at
prayer. The length from the Kiblah to the mihráb is one hundred feet,
and the breadth seventy feet. On one of the columns appears a falcon,
which having been recalled by Sultán Murád I. and not obeying, was by
his curse changed into stone. This mosque has one gate, and a mináreh
one story high, but no courtyard.
_Description of the Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I._
It is a small mosque, situate on the East side of Brússa, surrounded by
fields and gardens, and not much frequented on account of its distance
from the town; it is one hundred and fifty feet long and one hundred in
width, in the old simple style, and remained unfinished during the war
of Timúr, but was completed by Mússa Ilderím’s son.
_The Mosque of Mohammed I._
This celebrated and elegant mosque, known by the name of Yeshil Imáret
(the green building) entirely built of marble, stands upon a hill on
the East side of Brússa, and has two cupolas without columns, one
hundred and eight feet long and eighty feet in width. It is impossible
to give an idea of the mihráb (altar) and minber (pulpit) because the
carving is beyond all conception; the only gate is also ornamented with
such elegant arabesque carvings, that they could not be represented
finer even by the pen on Chinese paper. The stone-cutter who worked
this gate, spent full three years on it, during which he received forty
thousand ducats from Mohammed I. as is generally reported; in short,
there is no mosque of more elegant and exquisite workmanship in the
world. The reason of its being named the green building, arises from
the cupola and the mináreh being covered with green fayence which
radiates like emeralds in sunshine. Tall plane trees surround the
outside. I saw no finer mosque in Brússa, and other travellers say no
where else.
_Description of the Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I._
On the west side of the town is a certain suburb composed of this
mosque and its appurtenances of colleges, kháns and gardens. The
builder was Murád II. the son of Mohammed I. and father of Mohammed II.
who died at Adrianople and was buried here. It is a holy mosque and
has two cupolas. From the gate of the Kiblah to the mihráb the length
is one hundred and fifty feet, the width sixty. The (mihráb) altar,
(minber) pulpit and station of the Muëzzins (mahfil) are in the ancient
simple style, built in the year 850 (1446). Tall plane-trees adorn the
courtyard. Many Princes of the Ottoman family are buried here.
_The Mosque of Emír Sultán._
This mosque is built on a mound and is the last of the Imperial Mosques
which I visited.
On the east side of the town is the mosque of Monlá Arab Jebbárí, a
small mosque built after the model of the great mosque Ulú-jami’í,
its fine situation invites the people to pray there. The mosque of
Uftádí Efendí is in the inner castle. Of the Mesjíds or small mosques
(where Khutbeh is not said on Fridays) it is the principal. The Mesjíd
Zeiniler, the building of the Muftí Abd-ul-latíf, where I read the
Korán from beginning to end in one day, without interruption. Here
the Mollá Khosrew composed his famous book. At that time two hundred
lead-covered mosques and seven hundred minárehs might be seen from
Kází-yailá, a height half way up Mount Olympus.
_The Colleges of Brússa._
The colleges are those of Orkhán, Ilderím, Murád, Mohammed I.,
Emír-sultán, Issa-beg, Kássem páshá, Joneid, Kadrí, Tenárí, Zein-ud-dín
Háfí, Báyazíd-páshá, and Hamza-beg.
_The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains, Mills and Sebíls of Brússa._
There are three hundred convents, the most handsome of which are, that
of Mevlana Jelál-ud-dín containing eighty cells for Dervíshes, and a
place for the dance (sima’a). That of Emír-sultán entirely covered
with lead, which stands on a high hill. That of Zeiniler of the sect
of Na’amán Ben Thábet. That of Uftádí Efendí, in the inner castle, of
Khalvetí dervíshes. That of Abdál Murád Sultán of the Begtáshís, men
fervent in piety, who bareheaded and barefooted with open breasts,
wait upon the Moslims who frequent this delightful walk; it was built
by Orkhán and possesses more than a thousand kettles, pans, and copper
vessels; visitors perform their devotions here. That of Sheikh Kílí
near the camel-driver’s station, the dervishes are Begtáshís and very
poor, having no endowment, it was built by Sultán Orkhán. That of Abdál
Sultán Mússa built by the same. That of Ak-bi’ík Sultán of the order of
Begtásh. That of Abú Ishak Kasúlí who is buried at Erzerúm within the
gate of Tebríz. That of Gulshení; seventeen Convents of Khalvetís; nine
of Kadris; three of Nakshbendís; one of Rúfa’áïs; one of Kalenders, and
one of wrestlers.
The Imárets (dining establishments for the poor) are those of Murád I.
Ilderím Báyazíd, Emír Sultán, and that of Mohammed I., called the green
one.
There are one hundred and eight kháns; the principal one is the rice
khán, which has iron gates, a large stable, worthy of Antar, with two
hundred cells; the silk khán, of the same size, where the inspector
of the silk resides; the custom of the silk is let for three hundred
purses a year; the butter khán on the gate of which is suspended a
cask, which, being filled with búza, was once drank out by a single man
who had laid a bet that he would do it. There are also seventy kháns
called Mujerred Kháns for unmarried people. The cáravánseráï of Alí
Páshá was built by Sinán the famous architect, and has doorkeepers.
The fountains of Brússa amount to the number of two thousand and sixty,
every one of which vies with the spring of life. The Muftí Azíz Efendí
himself built two hundred, his name appearing on all of them, with an
inscription begging for a fátihah from those who drink. Besides these
public fountains, each of the twenty-three thousand houses has its own
supply. From certain springs water-courses pass from house to house,
along the streets, and carry water to many basins, water-pipes, baths
and gardens. The town being built at the foot of Mount Olympus, and the
houses rising in rows one above the other, the water naturally flows
to them. There are seventeen fountains, from which this large quantity
of water is derived, the principal one is that called Búnár-báshí,
which rushes out of the rock in several places on Mount Olympus and
spreads itself over the town. The head fountains of Súnderlí, of Chatál
Kainak, of Kepíz, of Náshí Dersí, of Sobrán, of Arejlí, of Chárshú,
of Bellor Kainak, of Samánlí Kainak, the latter obtained the name of
straw-boiler, because it issues from Mount Olympus, flows for some
distance underground, and comes out again at another place, which is
proved by the re-appearance of straws that have been put into the upper
part of the stream; the Sheker Kainak (sugar-boiler); the Selám Kiassí
Kainaghí; the Királ Kainak (king’s boiler); the Murád-dedeh Kainaghí;
in short there are seventeen large fountains which yield the clearest
and coldest water; but the channels decaying in the course of time, the
keepers of the aqueducts, at night, throw horsedung into them, by which
the openings are obstructed and the purity of the water is spoiled;
they would not dare to do this in the day-time because they would be
punished for it by the public officers.
The Water-mills are an hundred and seventy, which succeed one another
from the head fountain (Búnár-báshí) to the fish-market and all the way
down from Balabánjik; also in the valley of Eghzándí, at the tanners,
the quarter of the lepers, the foot of the Castle, the gate of Hassán
Páshá, &c. The establishments for distributing water (Sebíls) are six
hundred. Although here, as at Brússa, there is such abundance of water
that these establishments are superfluous, yet the generosity of the
Ottoman Sultáns provided them for the distribution of iced water in the
summer months.
_Praise of the Baths of Brússa._
The cleanliness and elegance of the bath of Sultán Mohammed is beyond
all description; the bath of Ainebegí-Charshú was founded by Ilderím
Khán; the bath of Takht-ul-kala’; the bath of Kayaghán Charshú; the
bath of Bostání, of the castle of the Cutlers, of Murád, and of
Ilderím, have all two rooms each (Chifteh). There are besides three
thousand private baths in the palaces, some of which are also devoted
by the proprietors to public use. The hot-baths in Turkish are called
Ilíjeh; in Arabic, Maíhamím; in Persian, Germáb; in Rúmelí, Kainarjeh
(boiling); and at Brússa, Kaplíjeh (from [Greek: kapnos] smoke, which
hangs over these hot springs;) in the Mogolic language they are called
Kerensa, and in Europe, bagnio. These springs are impregnated with
sulphur from mines which they pass through underground, and when mixed
with cold water, are equally wholesome for bathing or drinking, but if
drank to excess, it is said, they cause the teeth to fall out. There
are many hundred hot springs at Brússa, which being neglected in the
time of the Infidels, were not covered. The hot-bath of old Kaplíjeh,
built by Murád I. has a great cupola covering a large basin ten feet
square, on the four sides of which are washing-tubs, with two retired
cabinets (Khalvetí), upon entering these the flesh feels soft as an
ear-lap and all uncleanliness is boiled as it were from the body. To
drink the water is a good remedy for palpitation and throbbing of the
heart; but a certain method is prescribed to those using the baths,
which if neglected brings on pleurisy.
The following are the rules to be observed:—First, take a common
ablution at the edge of the basin, then wash the head with warm water,
throwing some over the body preparatory to walking into the bath, till
the whole body is covered, do not remain too long, and dress quickly
upon coming out, in order to avoid catching cold; this precaution is
necessary, and if neglected causes many ailments. The most powerful
of all the hot-baths of Brússa is that of Murád I. the dressing-place
being built in the old style is not cold.
_Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh Sultán._
The building is small, but its water is very useful in leprosy; lepers
who have been afflicted for forty years, are cured if they drink and
bathe here forty days. Persons affected with this disease lose their
eyebrows and eyelashes, and their breath becomes infectious. God avert
it from us! There are for this reason separate quarters for the leprous
(Meskin) in all towns in Rúm.
_Description of the sulphurous hot spring (Gogurdlí Kaplijeh.)_
It is a small building, the spring is very hot and sulphurous; it
is principally used as a remedy for itch and scab, and the waiters
(Dellák) know how to treat people so affected. Those who can bear to
be rubbed by them in the private cabinets for half an hour, will see
within twenty-four hours a miraculous alteration; the skin peels off
in black scales, and the body appears white as silver. In short, the
suburb of old Kaplíjeh, where the above springs exist, consists of
three hundred houses with gardens and hot springs, some for men, some
for women, some for children, and some for old men. The inhabitants of
Brússa, who are acquainted with their qualities, come here to stay a
fortnight with their relations, and use the baths.
_Description of New Kaplíjeh._
It stands near the town on a rocky place, and all the buildings are
covered with lead, like those of old Kaplíjeh. It was formerly a small
building, but Sultán Súleimán having been cured of the gout here,
he ordered his Vezír, Sárí Rostem Páshá, to build a large bath. The
travellers of Múltán, Balkh and Bokhara, say, that they have no where
seen a bath so magnificent as this. Its dressing-room is a vast place
covered with cupolas, capable of holding a thousand men; on its walls
is written in Ta’lík letters, a Turkish verse, saying;
“In life on your apparel lay no stress
As every body must his body here undress.”
In the centre of this dressing-room is a basin, and in the middle of
the basin a fountain. There are more than a hundred inspectors walking
round in high pattens, besides clean waiters (Dellák). The interior
basin (the bath itself) has a cupola which some say is one hundred
cubits high, it is covered with lead, and pierced with six hundred
glass windows; the basin is like a sea into which you descend by six
marble steps; at its four corners are figures of lions and dragons,
which spout the water from their mouths. In the cooling place (Súklik)
is a fountain (jet d’eau) which reaches to the top of the house. On
the side of the basin are eight large vaults, underneath each of them
is a bathing trough of stone, where those who perform their ablutions
can see those who swim in the basin. The floor of the whole bath is
paved with variegated marble, as though enamelled by goldsmiths. It
has two private cabinets (Khalvetí), in that on the right is a small
basin, the water of which is extremely warm, but when mixed with that
of a cold spring which is adjacent, a proper temperature is obtained.
Though this hotbath is not in such good repute as the former, yet it is
a pleasant place, where lovers delight with their beloved, especially
in the long winter nights; when these baths are lighted with candles, a
thousand tricks are played by the bathers, some diving, some swimming,
some wrestling in the water, some swelling their aprons into sails,
others spouting water from their mouths, some lying dead flat on the
water, others joining hands and imitating the cries of boatmen, “Tírá
Molá,” drive the water round like a whirlpool, which forces all those
who are in the water to follow the quick rotation of it.
There is also a private hotbath, called Kainárjeh, which, with many
others, I did not see, because I was a stranger, and only setting out
on my travels.
_Description of the Market of Brússa._
There are nine thousand shops. The Bezestán is a large building with
four iron gates secured with iron chains; its cupola is supported by
strong columns. It contains three hundred shops (doláb) in each of
which merchants reside, who are as rich as the kings of Egypt. The
market of the goldsmiths is outside the bezestán, and separate from it;
the shops are all of stone. There are also the markets of the tailors,
cotton-beaters, capmakers, thread merchants, drapers, linen merchants,
cable merchants, and that called the market of the bride, where essence
of roses, musk, ambergris, &c. are sold. The brains of the passers by
are refreshed with the most delicious odours, and nobody is willing to
leave it on account of the fragrance of the perfumes and the politeness
of its merchants. These markets are established around the Bezestán,
and the shops are arranged in rows. In each corner is a fountain
supplying water out of two pipes. In the summer months the servants
sprinkle the ground with water, so that the whole market resembles a
serdáb or cooling place of Baghdád. The principal men of Brússa sit
here during the hottest hours of the day. According to the descriptions
of travellers there is no where to be found so pleasant a market place.
The market of Haleb and of Alí Páshá at Adrianople are famous, but
neither they, nor even those of Constantinople, are to be compared with
the markets of Brússa. The saddlers, and the long market are the most
crowded; and the one occupied by the sellers of roast meat near the
rice khán is very elegant. None of the provisions at Brússa are sold by
Infidels but all by true Moslims. The shops of the Sherbet-merchants
are adorned with all sorts of cups, and in the summer-time they put
flowers into the sherbet and also mix rosewater with it, which is not
the custom any where else. The fruit merchants ornament their shops
with branches bearing fruit. There are seventy-five coffee-houses
each capable of holding a thousand persons, which are frequented by
the most elegant and learned of the inhabitants; and three times
a day singers and dancers execute a musical concert in them like
those of Hossein Bikara. Their poets are so many Hassáns, and their
story-tellers (Meddáh) so many Abúl-ma’álí. The one most famous for
relating stories from the Hamzeh-námeh is Kúrbání Alí, and Sheríf
Chelebí enchanted his hearers by those he told from the Sháh-námeh.
Other story-tellers (Kissah Khán) were famous for reciting the tales
of Abú Moslem the hatchet-bearer, which may be compared to the memoirs
(Seir) of Weissi. All coffee-houses, and particularly those near the
great mosque, abound with men skilled in a thousand arts (Hezár-fenn)
dancing and pleasure continue the whole night, and in the morning every
body goes to the mosque. These coffee-houses became famous only since
those of Constantinople were closed by the express command of Sultán
Murád IV. There are also no less than ninety-seven Búza-houses, which
are not to be equalled in the world; they are wainscoted with fayence,
painted, each capable of accommodating one thousand men. In summer the
Búza is cooled in ice, like sherbet; the principal men of the town are
not ashamed to enter these Búza-houses, although abundance of youths,
dancers and singers, girt with Brússa girdles, here entice their lovers
to ruin. The roads are paved with large flint-stones, a kind of paving
not met with elsewhere; these stones are not the least worn by age, but
they are dangerous for horses, who stumble on them because they are so
hard and bright.
_Description of the bridge of Erghándí._
A market for weavers is established on both sides of the bridge of
Erghándí at Gokdereh (the valley of Olympus) the small windows of each
shop look on to the torrent of Gokdereh, which flows beneath. The shops
are covered with lead, and the bridge is shut in on two sides by iron
gates pierced with loopholes. A part of the bridge is reserved for the
use of strangers to fasten up their horses. There is no covered bridge
like this, either in Arabia, Persia or Turkey. The name of this bridge,
Erghándí, is derived from the word Erghalándí, which signifies, “it has
been shaken,” and to which the following tradition is attached:—
In the time of Sultán Orkhán, a warrior, going early to the bath here,
heard a voice, saying, “Shall I come out or not?” The soldier being
a brave fellow, called out, “Come out,” adding a curse or two; when
out broke from the place whence the sound came, a rich treasure, with
great shaking and trembling of the earth (Erghálandí). The soldier,
upon seeing such a quantity of gold coins, went and related the story
to Orkhán, who advised him to spend in pious works, what Heaven had
thus granted him. He took the treasure to his home, paid a tenth of it
to the revenue, and then built this bridge, which took its name from
the circumstance. There are forty-eight large and small bridges in and
about Brússa. The streets and some of the markets are adorned with
festoons of grapes, which grow here in great plenty, and others with
tall plane-trees and willows. Brússa is truly a garden-town; the number
of gardens is said to be forty-seven thousand, all abundantly supplied
with water.
_Description of the Walks and pleasure-places of Brússa._
Of these there are no less than three hundred and sixty-five, so
that there is one for every day in the year. The finest is that of
Búnár-báshí, where if you eat roast meat and drink of the water, you
feel hungry again immediately; of such digestive power is the water:
a mosque adorns this famous walk. The walk of the Mevleví-kháneh, or
convent of Dervishes, built by Orkhán, where twice a week the Mevlevís
assemble for their religious dances (sima’á), and afterwards take their
pleasure in the fields. The walk of Abdál Murád Sultán is situate in a
valley high up on Mount Olympus, whence the finest view of Brússa is
obtained. The verdure is so luxuriant, that the earth seems covered
with green velvet. There are plane-trees, willows, cypresses and
box-trees, of an immense height, under the shade of which ten thousand
men may procure shelter. Swings are fastened with ropes to some of
these trees, where lovers and their beloved swing each other. There are
benches for company and benches for prayer; it is a most delightful
place, and extends as far as the eye can reach. The walk of Fissdíklí
is adorned with pine-trees, and is a secluded but very pleasant corner.
The walk of Karanfillí, on the way to Kaplíjah, is a resting-place.
The walk of Kaplí Kiaya is a fine spot without any buildings, and
surrounded by woods, and that of Abd-ul-múmen is above all praise.
Outside of the town, to the east, in a chesnut-wood, half an hour’s
distance from the foot of Mount Olympus, stands the fountain of A’ssá,
which is said to have rushed forth by a miracle, when the great Saint
Emír Sultán struck his staff (a’ssá) into the ground on this spot. The
chesnuts are grafted trees, each not weighing above forty drachms. The
walk of Sobrán is also adorned with chesnut-trees. The place of Ulumest
is a convent for the accommodation of strangers. The pleasure-place of
Kazí-yailá (the judge’s Alp) is situate half-way up Mount Olympus, and
is ascended from below in five hours. The Okmeïdán, or archery-ground,
is so pleasant a place, that it is beyond all description. The walk of
the Monks’ mountain (Olympus) obtained its name from its having been
the retreat of Greek Monks.
_A Dissertation on Mountains._