A CONCISE
PRACTICAL TREATISE
ON
ARTIFICIAL FLY FISHING
FOR
TROUT.
BY
GREY DRAKE,
AN ARTIFICIAL FLY-FISHER OF FIFTY YEARS’ EXPERIENCE.
LONDON:
PUBLISHED BY G. BERGER, HOLYWELL STREET, STRAND.
PRICE ONE SHILLING AND SIXPENCE.
PREFACE.
In the following humble effort I have endeavoured to communicate to
the inexperienced lovers of artificial fly-fishing, as concisely as
possible, and in a practical form, the result of my own experience of
upwards of fifty years.
I treat only of fishing for trout with the artificial fly, adding a few
observations on dibbing for trout with artificial flies and other baits.
I have no other ambition than that of initiating the tyro in the
“gentle” and elegant art, with as little trouble and expense to him
as may be. If he will do me the honour to become my disciple, and
practise what I preach, I confidently promise him as much success as
any artificial fly-fisher may reasonably expect.
GREY DRAKE.
1860.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPTER I.—The tackle—the rod—the reel—the line 5
CHAPTER II.—Artificial flies 6
CHAPTER III.—Throwing the fly 10
CHAPTER IV.—General directions, observations, &c. 11
CHAPTER V.—To make a tail line—to tie on a hook 17
CHAPTER VI.—Bob-flies 19
CHAPTER VII.—Dibbing 20
A PRACTICAL TREATISE,
ETC.
CHAPTER I.
THE TACKLE.
I give no directions for making rods, lines, or flies. I recommend the
purchase of these at the best fishing-tackle shops. As to the supposed
advantage to the artificial fly-fisher of being able to make artificial
flies by the river-side, in imitation of the fly actually on the water,
I am confidently of opinion, the acquisition of that art is wholly
unnecessary and useless, as I shall more fully explain hereafter.
THE ROD.
The rod can scarcely be too light and pliable. Its pliability assists
greatly, not only in throwing the fly, but in hooking and retaining the
fish. The butt end should have a hollow sufficient to hold an extra
top-piece, secured by a brass screw-nut, which, when the rod is used,
should be taken out, and a spike [Illustration] screwed into its
place. The spike is very useful for sticking the rod upright in the
ground, as occasion may require. Some prefer a two-handed rod for large
rivers. I think it is unnecessarily fatiguing to use a two-handed rod,
inasmuch as a skilful artist can throw a fly with a single-handed rod
as far as is necessary, and I never use any other. The single-handed
rod should be about thirteen or fourteen feet long. To prevent the
danger of breaking the rod, by the joints separating in throwing the
fly, the joints should be whipped with strong silk, as shown in this
figure.
[Illustration]
Fly rods are sometimes made to attach their joints by screws at the
butt ends. Whipping rods so made is of course unnecessary, but I do
not approve of screw-jointed rods, as they cannot be made sufficiently
light and pliable.
THE REEL.
I prefer the spring cog-check wheel, which, when the line is lengthened
or shortened, makes a noise like that caused by winding up a clock.
By this reel the line may be lengthened or shortened with sufficient
rapidity, and with precisely, and no more than the proper resistance,
the checks preventing the line running out too fast. This reel is, I
think, far preferable to the multiplying reel, which is very liable to
get out of order.
THE LINE.
I prefer a horsehair line. In length it should be proportioned to
the size of the river you fish. For large rivers seventy or eighty
yards are not too much; for narrow rivers thirty or forty yards are
sufficient. It should gradually taper towards the end to which the gut
or tail line is attached, so that from four to five yards should be
little thicker than the gut itself. The gut, or tail line, should be at
least three yards long; thick and strong for rainy and windy weather
and discoloured water. It cannot be too fine for bright weather and
clear water, with little wind.