So says St. Paul--and this seems to have been the opinion of the most
ancient philosophers and physicians. A moderate use of it has been
sanctioned by the wise and good in all ages. Those who have denied its
virtues are those who have not been able to drink it. Asclepiades wrote
upon wine, the use of which he introduced with almost every remedy,
observing, that the gods had bestowed no more valuable gift on man: even
the surly Diogenes drank it; for it is said of him, that he liked that
wine best, which he drank at other people's cost--a notion adopted by
the oinopholous Mosely, who, when asked, "What wine do you drink,
doctor?" answered, "Port at home--claret abroad!"
Hippocrates, the father of physic, recommends a cheerful glass; and
Rhases, an ancient Arabian physician, says, no liquor is equal to good
wine. Reineck wrote a dissertation "De Potu Vinoso;" and the learned Dr.
Shaw lauded the "juice of the grape." But the stoutest of its medical
advocates was Tobias Whitaker, physician to Charles II., who undertook
to prove the possibility of maintaining life, from infancy to old age,
without sickness, by the use of wine!
It must, however, be remembered, that Whitaker was cordially attached to
wine, and a greater friend to the vintner than to the apothecary, having
as utter a dislike to unpalatable medicines, as the most squeamish of
his patients; therefore, Dr. Toby's evidence must be taken with caution,
independently of the courtly spirit that might have led him to adapt his
theories to the times.
It has been questioned whether the use of wine was known to the
antediluvian world; but there can be do doubt, in the corrupt state of
man, that wine would have its share in his debasement, and it may be
very strongly inferred, from the circumstance that Noah planted a
vineyard, and, moreover, "that he drank of the wine, and was drunken,"
(Gen, ix. 20.)--a sad stain in the character of a man who was "perfect
in his generation;" and which also proves that, in the earliest period
of the world, the very best of men were liable to fall into error and
excess.
But the antiquity and propriety of wine-drinking is not matter of
question. The archbishop of Seville, Antonio de Solis, who lived to be
110 years old, drank wine; and even that wonderful pattern of propriety,
Cornaro, did the same: but the question is about quantity. Sir William
Temple was pleased to lay down a rule, and limit propriety to three
glasses. "I drink one glass," says he, "for health, a second for
refreshment, a third for a friend; but he that offers a fourth is an
enemy."
As in eating, so in drinking, in the question of quantity--much depends
on the capacity of the stomach. A very abstemious friend of mine, not
long since, dined tete-a-tete with a gentleman well known for his
kindness and hospitality, and not less so for his powers of bibulation.
After dinner, at which a fair share of many excellent wines was taken,
Port and Madeira were put on the table, and before the host, a _magnum_
of Claret. My friend drank his usual quantum, three glasses of Madeira,
during which time a great portion of the magnum had disappeared; and
soon afterwards, being emptied, the host said, "I think we can just
manage a bottle between us." The bottle was brought, and very shortly
disappeared, without the aid of the visiter.
The same gentleman and Lord ----, at the Angel at Bury, fell in with
some excellent Claret. They had disposed of six bottles, when the
landlord, who did not guess or _gauge_ the _quality_ of his customers
(the bell being rung for a fresh supply,) begged very gently to hint
that it was expensive stuff, being fifteen shillings a bottle! "Oh! is
it so? then bring up two bottles directly!"
We have nothing, however, in modern times, at all equal to the account
given of some of the ancients. The elder Cato, we are told, warmed good
principles with a considerable quantity of good wine.[5] But Cicero's
son exceeds all others; so much so, that he got the name of _Bicongius_,
because he was accustomed to drink two congii[6] at a sitting. Pliny,
and others, abound in grand examples, that prove we have degenerated at
any rate in this respect, for these convivials were neither sick nor
sorry. Even that eminent debauchee, Nero, was only three times sick in
fourteen years. "Nam qui luxuriae immoderatissimae esset, ter omnino per
xiv. annos languit; atque ita, ut neque _vino_, neque consuetudine
_reliqua_ abstineret."
The Abbé de Voisenon, a very diminutive man, said to his physician, who
ordered him a quart of ptisan per hour, "Ah! my friend, how can you
desire me to swallow a quart an hour? I hold only a pint."
Wine has not only been considered good for the body, but has, from the
earliest period, been thought invigorating to the mind. Thus we find it
a constant theme of praise with poets. Martial says--
Regnat nocte calix, volvuntur biblia mane,
Cum Phoebo Bacchus dividit imperium.
All night I drink, and study hard all day;
Bacchus and Phoebus hold divided sway.