CHAPTER XIX

Malay people have a great reverence for age, and Datu Isa’s many

years apparently endeared her still more to the younger generation at

Kuching. Her children, grandchildren, and I, were delighted when she

would tell us about her early life, and also about the superstitions

and legends of her country. Her conversation was always interesting,

and I wish I could give an impression of her manner when relating these

tales. When sixteen years of age, she, together with several Malay

women of Kuching, had been liberated from captivity by the menacing

guns of James Brooke’s yacht, turned on to the Palace of her captor,

Rajah Muda Hassim, who had intended to carry her off to Brunei for the

Sultan’s harem. This personal reminiscence invariably served as the

prelude to other interesting tales. The story of the Pontianak ghost,

for instance, was the one which perhaps thrilled us most. Malays almost

sing as they talk, and their voices quaver, become loud or soft, or die

off in a whisper, the words being interspersed with funny little nasal

noises, together with frowns, sighs, or smiles. When about to relate a

dramatic incident, Datu Isa became silent for a moment, looked at us

with knitted brows, although she did not see us, so intent was she on

her story.

This is the story of the Pontianak. When a baby is about to be born,

the father walking under the flooring of his house hears a low chuckle

behind him. He turns round, and sees a beautiful woman looking at him.

Her face is like the moon, her eyes are like stars, her mouth is like

a half-open pomegranate, her complexion is white, her hair intensely

red. She wears a sarong round her waist, and no jacket covers her

shoulders. Should the husband have neglected to set fire to the bunch

of onions, tuba roots, and other ingredients, the smoke of which keeps

evil spirits away, the woman stands there for some moments without

uttering a sound. Then she opens her mouth, giving vent to peals of

laughter. By this time the husband is so frightened that he can think

of no spell by which to combat her evil intentions. After a while, her

feet rise an inch or two from the ground, and as she flies swiftly past

him, her hair flows straight behind her like a comet’s tail, when he

sees between her shoulder blades the large gaping wound, signifying

that she is a Pontianak. After this apparition, there is no hope for

the woman or the babe about to be born, they are doomed to die, so that

the Pontianak is one of the most dreaded ghosts haunting Malay houses.

As Datu Isa finished the Pontianak story, we all clamoured for more.

The old lady loved to see our interest, and went on telling us many

other superstitions: Unless you cover the heads of sleeping children

with black cloth, and put a torn fishing net on the top of their

mosquito curtains, the birds, Geruda, Dogan, and Konieh (supposed to be

eagles), will come close to them and cause convulsions. You must put

knives or pinang cutters near your babies, and when walking out with

them you must take these instruments with you, until your babies can

walk alone. Then turning to me, Datu Isa would say: “I hope you will

never see the sun set under the fragment of a rainbow, Rajah Ranee,

for that is a certain portent that the Rajah’s wife must die, although

rainbows in other portions of the sky do not matter if you know how

to address them. When my children and grandchildren are out in the

garden, and a rainbow arches over the sky, we pluck the heads off the

more gaily coloured flowers and place them on the children’s heads, and

say: ‘Hail, King of the Sky, we have come out to meet you in our finest

clothes.’”

It is unlucky for a child to lie on its face and kick up its legs, this

being a sure sign the father or mother will fall sick. When a woman

expects a baby, the roof of her house must not be mended, nor must her

husband cut his hair or his nails. During this time a guest must not

be entertained for one night only; they must stay two. When a woman

dies in childbirth, during the fasting month of the Muhammadans, she

becomes an “orang alim” (a good spirit), and all the sins she may have

committed are forgiven her.

Datu Isa had great faith in a bangle I possessed, made of a kind of

black seaweed found on the Sarawak coast, and she was anxious I should

take care not to break it. It was given me in this way: During the

first years of my stay in Sarawak, an old gardener employed at the

Palace, having in some way misbehaved himself, was dismissed. Shortly

afterwards, I met the old man in a state of great depression during

one of my walks the other side of the river, and he begged me to use

my influence with the Rajah and get him taken back again, promising

he would behave better in the future. He was a lazy old man, but as

I felt sorry for him, I asked the Rajah to give him another trial.

The Rajah agreed, and the man resumed work in the Astana garden in

his own desultory way. I often used to watch him pulling up the weeds

from the paths; he would sit on his haunches, stare at the river, and

take some minutes’ rest after every weed he extracted. Notwithstanding

these drawbacks, he was a grateful soul, and on the morning of his

reinstalment amongst the Rajah’s gardeners he brought me a bangle

made of this black seaweed. It was very small and I had difficulty in

getting it over my hand, so the old man put it into boiling water to

make it more elastic, and, after some little trouble, it was forced

over my hand. “Lightning, snake bites, and antus can never harm you,”

he said, “as long as you keep the bangle round your wrist, but should

it ever break, it would bring you bad luck!” The bangle is on my wrist

now, and I dread lest anything should happen to it, for should it ever

get broken, I should feel just as nervous of the result as would any of

my Malay women friends.

Some of the Malays in Sarawak use somewhat disconcerting methods to

frighten away evil spirits on the occasion of very bad storms. After a

frightful gale, accompanied by incessant lightning and thunder, that

occurred in Kuching, two or three owners of plantations in the suburbs

of the town came to the Rajah and complained that some of their Malay

neighbours had cut down all their fruit trees during the hurricane, in

order to propitiate the spirit of the storm. Nowadays these drastic

measures to other people’s property are seldom heard of, because the

Rajah has his own methods of dealing with such superstitious and

undesirable proceedings. It took some time to eradicate these curious

and unneighbourly customs, but I believe they are now a thing of the

past.

[Illustration: INCHI BAKAR--SCHOOL MASTER, KUCHING]

I must tell one more curious belief existing amongst Malays. Just

before I left for England, a Malay woman from one of our out-stations

brought me a cocoa-nut, very much larger than the ordinary fruit of

the Archipelago. I believe these huge cocoa-nuts are only to be found

growing in the Seychelles Islands, and the natives call them “cocoa de

mer” The woman told me she had brought me this fruit on account of the

luck it brought its possessor; at the same time assuring me it came

from fairyland. I asked her to tell me its story, when she informed

me that, as every one knows, in the middle of the world is a place

called “The navel of the sea.” In this spot, guarded by two dragons,

is a tree on which these large cocoa-nuts grow, known as Pau Jinggeh.

The dragons feed on the fruit, and when they have partaken too freely

of it, have fits of indigestion, causing them to be sea-sick; thus

the fruit finds its way into the ocean, and is borne by the current

into all parts of the world. These enormous nuts are occasionally met

with by passing vessels, and in this manner some are brought to the

different settlements in the Malayan Archipelago. The fruit brought

for my acceptance had been given to the woman by a captain of a Malay

schooner, who had rescued it as it was bobbing up and down in the water

under the keel of his boat. “I thought you would like to have it, Rajah

Ranee,” she said, “because it cannot be bought for love nor money.” The

fruit now occupies a prominent position in our drawing-room at Kuching,

and is a source of great interest to the natives.

With our ideas of European wisdom, we may be inclined to smile

superciliously at these beliefs, but we should not forget that a great

many of us do not like seeing _one_ magpie, we avoid dining thirteen

at table, we hate to see the new moon through glass, we never walk

under a ladder, or sit in a room where three candles are burning; and

how about people one meets who assure us they have heard the scream

of a Banshee, foretelling the death of some human being? Putting all

these things together, I do not think either Malays or Dyaks show much

more superstition than we Europeans do; after all, we are not so very

superior to primitive races, although we imagine that on account of our

superior culture we are fit to govern the world.

My life in Sarawak · 第 19 / 32 章