The Alps at last, bleak and cloudless. I could but feebly compare them

in my mind to God’s family pewter and silver stacked in useless and

aggravated confusion along the horizon. Brightly polished and metallic

they glistened in the sun, silver-plated with the crystallised snow and

hall-marked with ancient volcanic scars. I felt no doubt as to their

Maker. But my mood led me to view them relatively and from distances in

which they grew smaller. My imagination resolved them to the contours

of the Mountains in the Moon, which hung aloft that night like a steel

mirror parodying the Alps of earth. In that cosmic illumination which

we call moonlight I imagined the Alps as seen from Saturn or from the

sun, reducing them to mental and relative dust. What interested me

most, watching those mountains, was their human associations and the

dim thought that in crevasses hidden throughout those heights as remote

from man’s eye as the sepulchre of Moses lay the frost-eaten skeletons

of dead mountaineers, all the lonely legion who had gone up on the

hills and never returned. The great peaks seemed memorable, glamorous

and tragic. Without history until men travelled and travailed on them,

without dramatic power till men perished in their fastnesses and

fissures, dumb and inane the great hills encumbered the earth.

Switzerland is Switzerland, and three things in Switzerland do not

stop. Firstly, the wonderfully made clocks; secondly, the ever-tinkling

cattle bells, and, thirdly, the Tourists, who at certain and fortunate

periods take flight. I arrived in the lull between summer-climbing

and winter-sports while the voice of the tourist was low in the land.

Saltus met me at the station in the valley and conducted me to the

funicular railway leading to his chalet. We began to move slowly up the

heights. It was like tobogganing uphill in a kind of collapsed tramcar.

We passed through a mist of bell-music. Upon the cattle of a hundred

hills the little bells jangled and tinkled. If the bells were intended

to trace a lost cow I should imagine the expedient to be as practical

as tying a blue ribbon round every sheep on the English Downs. But I

dwell on a particular sound which, for me, is always associated with

Saltus.

At the top of the funicular we dismounted and began walking through

a forest of fir trees, which lost all charm for me when I read a

notice to say that it was reserved for hotel visitors! and in the

wild thickets Saltus pointed out one of those melancholy timberbuilt

depots for consumptives. Farther we met a fellow-countryman, who

turned and, looking at Saltus with staring hectic eyes, seemed to

fly horrorstruck, as far as I could judge. We were now passing on

footpaths through the forest proper, and in half an hour we reached

his chalet. It was a dark and dismal den though furnished with modern

comforts. A heavy overhanging drip-board shaded the dark-stained timber

stories from sun or snow. Piles of books filled the low-ceilinged room

amid much mountaineering gear and instruments that I connected with

astrology--star charts and astrolabes, crystal balls and the like.

This was a new side to Saltus’s character, and I decided that it

accounted for the dread which his neighbour had shown when we passed

in the forest, as well as for the awed demeanour of the two Swiss

servants, who worked in the chalet by day and withdrew to some Alpine

kraal by night. I found a clue to Saltus, at least to the extent of his

misanthropy. His chalet held no Visitors’ Book, and there appeared to

be no visitor’s room.

I presumed I was the first visitor to reach his abode, for a camp

bed and blankets were pitched for me in a corner of the dining-room.

I stayed a month with him without making any attempt to lift the

personal mystery. I discovered that he was wealthy, and a rich man

without friends is a curious phenomenon. He was also an epicure, for

the food and cooking were excellent. But there was no variety. Certain

vegetables and meats appeared but others never appeared in the round.

Yet Saltus surveyed the menu book every morning with an eagle eye.

However, I settled down to this solitary form of companionship. Lunn

had forgotten me and to Cook I must have been as one that had gone

down into the pit, though never had I dwelt at a higher elevation in my

life. Of his necromancy Saltus was very open and showed me many things

in old books, but I came to regard it as a hobby rather than a practice

on his part. I could not feel that his clever cynical mind would waste

or loose itself entirely on such barren investigations. His servants

thought he had attained some proficiency in the darker arts, for I

noticed that whenever he entered the room they crossed their thumbs in

his direction. I knew what this meant. They feared him for the evil

eye. Did the lady in the Aerated Bread Shop also fear the evil eye? I

wondered to myself. It was no business of mine whether the ban upon him

was social or supernatural. I would not ask and I could not blame. He

could make me his revelation when he wished.

But it was a slight surprise to find that this velvet-dressed lounger

and affecter of the occult was a first-class mountaineer. I learnt

by observation that he was so keen that he never lost a chance to

go out on a search party. There were plenty of accidents in his

locality. In face of the chalet rose the colossal cloudpick known as

the Spindelhorn, and the ranges of the Schwindelhorn stretched at our

back. More than once I saw him go out at a night call with the guides

when some party had been reported lost. He seemed to have a passion

for danger and not for fame. Unrecorded were these heroic climbs,

except what he cared to tell me after he had rested. He told me one

day with visual effect how he had been forced to make a glissade down

a splitting snow-field. For a moment he had been suspended by the rope

over a crevasse, but he laughed as though life held far more terrible

situations. It was a ridiculising yet a haunted laugh. But it was a new

rôle for this misanthrope to adopt, that of a human St. Bernard, for he

never took out his gear except to find the lost. I never knew what to

make of it. His expeditions on the hills always left him in a strangely

exalted condition, and for a day the cynicism would fall from his real

nature like a bright barren husk. I even imagined him sentimental

within. The snows and storms of the Alps had no terrors for him; if

anything they were a refreshment to his silent, sullen soul.

He never left the chalet except to walk in the woods, and always

avoided seeing anybody except myself and the servants. Yet he had no

appearance of having shrunk into himself or of collapsing into ignoble

obscurity. He kept himself in the most magnificent strength and fettle,

and his agility in drawing himself over the rocks on the very mild

climbs we took together was little less than caprine. And all the while

his mystery seemed farther away than ever from solution. This was no

broken man, whose co-operation on a jaunt was half the battle. Why

did he behave as though his presence polluted the very whiteness of

Switzerland? Yet he used to stand for hours watching the Spindelhorn

as though he were sifting the snows in his inmost soul. I looked

carelessly into his eyes sometimes. They were the cold green colour

of the glaciers. They made me shiver and desire to ask questions less

than ever. They reminded me of the eyes of a man who had died long ago.

The chalet was comfortable enough to a bachelor, but it suffered from

what I can only describe as a great spiritual emptiness. Neither good

nor evil spirits could find lodging there. It was a sort of vacuum.

When I saw all his necromantic gear, I had a feeling that, as he had

found himself cut by the living, it was only natural that he should

wish to scrape up acquaintance with the dead. One day he told me that

he had never imagined once in his life that any survival of the human

personality was possible. I supposed his secret was that, though

endowed with fine faculties, mental and bodily, he had somehow become

dispossessed of his soul, if ever he had one! I felt as though I was

really the only human person walking about in that house. His body and

his mind were unconnected by the third quantity of soul, which makes a

person. He was a unique figure, a striking character in his way, almost

a personage; but he was not a real person. He was only a psychical

mannequin, after all! However, I was comfortable and I lived on with my

automaton friend as with a muscular phantom. I was fond of coining such

phrases, but none of them exactly caught John Saltus.

I felt that my patronising pity was inadequate to the power that

lay behind his detachment of purpose and life. He was something

more than an Alpine Diogenes in his tub. He had something of the

martyrised nobility of Prometheus chained to the rocks. But why

he lived on those heights, so lonely and so unsatisfied, a woman

visitor would have gone mad in a week trying to find out. He was not

consumptive. His mountaineering was occasional. His tastes lay with

civilisation, and eventually I realised that his astrology was all

a blind. The inspiration or fascination or redemption which he drew

from the everlasting hills eluded me. What possible sin or secret

demanded that he should live in his wooden eyrie, issuing forth on

rare and dangerous expeditions? What did he expect the snows of the

Schwindelhorn to wipe away from his past?

I used to feel that he was a ghostless body, that he was ever watching

those heights for the return of his soul. They were not unpopulated,

those uncanny crevasses and glaciers. Human beings had been lured and

trapped into their embrace. I could conceive ghosts among those emerald

cracks in the sides of the lacquered mountain. There, as in a vision,

the dead climbers eternally negotiate the trackless passes, while the

noiseless flick of their shadowy axes moves upon the face of the ice,

and phantom pulls phantom along the endless rope.

* * * * *

One day the end came with such an unexpected explanation. We were

watching the fronting heights, the trillion tonnage of micaed granite,

that rises in sheeted cliffs and light-green landing stages, where

alpine men actually live, and the higher barren ledges and ragged

belts of hirsute fir-trees growing on the gigantic rock jowls and only

waiting for a drift of snowlike soap and the razorlike effect of an

avalanche to give the illusion of a grandiose operation in Titanic

shaving. And over all rose the snowy peaks, worn fine by the workings

of sun and rain, or tangled and wounded by the primeval chaos.

Leaving him, I had turned back to the chalet when I suddenly heard him

cry to himself: “Onions and veal, onions and veal, there is no peace!”

Ridiculous words they sounded, but from Saltus they came with all the

force and enunciation of Greek tragedy. And he sighed the words again

and again: “No peace, no peace!” While his green eyes still ranged

the panorama of the Alps. I knew not what to think. Had he sent his

soul out into the waste and had it returned empty to him again? He

rejoined me at lunch and showed himself almost human--not that he was

not always courteous and hospitable and (when he wished) the fount of

good conversation. Whatever his tragedy was, he had seemingly merged it

into nature. Whatever had been the primitive shades and sensitiveness

of his character, he had reduced himself to the slow patience of the

unemotional. He was the triumph of undecontrollable control. In a month

of close company those were the only revealing words he had let slip.

And they were the most anguished I had ever heard drop from a human

creature in my life. Otherwise I could not recollect once seeing him

hurried or angry or grieved. I could not conceive him passing in or out

of love. Swearing or praying, those two easily reversible processes

of approach to the Creator, were not for him. Fortunately I still

remained, on the whole, neither curious nor critical.

When he joined me, he told me he had seen an avalanche on the sides

of the Schwindelhorn. Emotion in his face took the form of chalky

solemnity. “I never watch an avalanche without wishing I were under

it”; and again he said with unusual feeling, “I believe I could bring

myself to pray to be buried under those moving snows if my prayer could

be heard.” I said I hoped that the avalanche had brought no accident

in its train, and that if he liked I would go down the funicular to

the Club that evening to find out if it were so. He nodded grateful

agreement. “Yes, do find out. If there has been trouble, I should like

to be out on the Alps to-morrow.”

I crawled down by the funicular that evening and found my way to the

English Club. The avalanche had caused some stirring among guides and

visitors. At least one party was known to have been making in the

direction taken by the avalanche. Alpenstocks were clashing and heavy

boots beating upon the boarding. Anglo-Saxon superiority upon the

mountains was being demonstrated. Casual English voices could be heard

with their peculiarly unhumorous drawl. I made bold to inquire if this

activity had been caused by rumour of accident. A quiet man looked up

and nodded. Then he said: “You come from Saltus, don’t you? I have

noticed you with him several times.” I assented. “You live with him?”

I nodded. “You eat with him?” I nodded. “Then I bet you haven’t smelt

an onion for a twelvemonth,” and he laughed coarsely. “I am afraid I

don’t understand you, sir,” I said. “Then wait till this search party

gets clear. I dare say they will send for Saltus, if they don’t strike

the party which was due to return last night.” And I waited, curious

perhaps for the first time in my life. The word “onion” rang like an

echo of fatality in my ears.

An hour later we were alone in the club-room, and the other began his

yarn. Mercifully it was quickly told. “So you eat with John Saltus day

after day and your flesh never creeps?” I sat, nodding and nodding, in

a waking trance, but I could not fall asleep. Like the Ancient Mariner,

the other told me his ghastly tale as follows:

“I knew John Saltus in Paris when we were both students. We lived in

the same rooms for a time. But for a year we always fed at a crowded

little restaurant in the Latin Quarter. It was very cheap and very

good. The restaurant was kept by an old artist, fallen on evil days,

and his handsome wife. We all admired and feebly affected Madame.

Saltus had a friend who went further and made love to her. They used

to eat together. One day I saw the old man serving them both with a

livid face. It really seemed a little hard that they should eat his own

food under his nose and make him wait on them both. Two days later I

arrived late for the evening meal. To my surprise only Saltus and his

friend were sitting there. I joined them, and Saltus explained: ‘The

old man has been feeling ill. He refused us admission, but we insisted

and tried to put it right. Anyhow, he has closed his windows and let in

no one but us. Madame has not appeared yet. She must be doing penance

in the kitchen. However, you have missed nothing. The cooking has been

execrable. We have had horrible horsemeat with onions. Can’t you catch

the smell? You had better go on to another restaurant. They are too

much upset here. Our friend has disorganised the establishment by his

love-making. The wonder is that he has been served at all. And now

Monsieur has not returned from the kitchen. We had better pay the bill

and go. I will go in and spare him the trouble of looking upon his

rival again.’ All these words and sentences have remained indelible

upon my mind,” continued my informant.

“When Saltus came back from the kitchen he was a changed man. He could

not speak, but motioned us all to follow him. Madame lay dead on the

table, her breasts terribly mangled and her whole body dissected. Her

husband had fled and was picked out of the Seine the next day. The

stove was burning hard and a saucepan of onions was frizzling to a

stinking cinder. No need to discuss or analyse the menu. Saltus has

been that way ever since. He thinks he has committed some unforgivable

sin or incurred some uncleansable degradation in the sight of men.”

I ran out into the moonlit night. It was late, and I walked about,

unable to sleep, and watched the sunrise redden the snowy veins of

the Schwindelhorn like a pink unguent applied by Dawn to heal the

black bruise of night. I can never forget the first delicate pink that

sprayed or rather perfumed the mountain until the sun brought a ruddier

rush of light over the mountain-head, and Day succeeded with all her

diamond whiteness. And the stark beauty of the Spindelhorn and the

Spittlehorn rose up behind me with a whiteness as of fuller’s earth.

Then I could understand Saltus longing for the untarnished hills. It

was not curious that he should have drawn himself into the heights that

his flesh might be cleansed by the snow and his bones one day made one

with the unpolluted Alps. But I never returned to his chalet.

LOADED DICE

I was recently passing a few days at Monte Carlo, tempted more by

the weather than the spirit of gambling. I was mooning about in the

sunshine, if I may so describe a very pleasant though unproductive

manner of spending the time. The hot-house plants and tropical trees

which grow out-of-doors in the Riviera are alone worth the pleasure of

the trip. The principality of Monaco needs no foreign loans to run its

government, for the tax paid by the Casino is sufficient to balance its

expenses. The flowers benefit by the local affluence, for their beds

are as carefully made as though they were occupying a royal suite, and

they themselves receive as much toilet as ladies of fashion. Palms,

prickly-pear cactus, and all kinds of thick, watery-fleshed plants

thrive in the dry terraces between the mountains and the Mediterranean

Sea. The top-heavy, gouty, black-fibred palm-trees give a ludicrous

impression of old elephants’ legs suffering, if such a medical horror

is possible, from the disease called elephantiasis! The fruit of the

prickly-pear looks like lumps of coloured putty temporarily stuck upon

the gawky leathery leaves. Another amusing plant with stiff spiked

leaves a yard long looks, when it begins to wither, like strips of

zebra hide cut into ribbons. Sun and dew work hand in hand all winter

to make the vegetation as delightful to passing visitors to Monte

Carlo as it must be consoling to constant losers!

Whether one hazards a stake or not, it is always interesting to sit

outside the Casino and watch the different types who frequent that

most levelling of institutions. Fortune is the most democratic of

divinities, and often tosses into the lap of the humble what she

has filched from the purse-proud. Great or small, adventurer or

artistocrat, sharp or flat, she has a levelling effect on them all

in time. They are all at the mercy of her infinite and ironical

whimsicality.

Monte Carlo has this in common with certain other places in the world,

like Charing Cross Station, the Piazza of St. Peter’s, and Niagara

Falls, that the world, with or without his wife, passes there sooner

or later. If you wait, you will soon run into an acquaintance, and

already you have a curious feeling that half the people you have ever

known have passed that way. For once I sat waiting an hour without

recognising a face. It was like a long run of the _rouge_ at the table.

The _noir_ seemed more and more certain to come. The next to pass

must be a friend. So it was, for I recognised the worn, old-fashioned

features before me. But where had I met them previously? The name came

back to me with an effort. I remembered now. It was an old friend of my

father’s, and we had met in Hyde Park twenty years before, when I was a

boy at Eton. I never forgot the gold sovereign he gave me to take back

to school. I remembered, too, my father having pointed him out to me as

the greatest gambler of his generation. I vaguely knew that his whole

fortune had disappeared at the tables.

I was feeling lonely, so I followed him into the gambling-rooms and

claimed acquaintance, which he was polite enough not to refuse. He

was not gambling himself, so he had time to take me round the tables

and explain to me in theory one or two unfailing systems for breaking

the bank. In practice I afterwards found out, and even suspected at

the moment, they had as often bankrupted the would-be ruptors of the

bank, but he only remembered the one or two brilliant moments in his

career when he had cleared out a table and left it closed for the

day. I found it more interesting listening to this old-time player

than watching the motley crowd who clutched the gold-spangled skirts

of Fortune as she slipped by, in silences only broken by the mocking

formulas of the croupiers and the whirring of the fatal ball. At the

tables were sitting girls who had better been playing draughts in

their schoolrooms, and hawk-eyed beldames who seemed ready to stake

the price of their coffins on the winning number. Only when they won

did a muscle relax in their tired faces. The presiding croupiers were

a perpetual lesson in the art of concealing emotions. But as they were

never allowed to join in a stake, they shovelled the money like so

many beans. What perfect flunkeys they would have made for the Sphinx!

“_Messieurs, faites vos jeux_,” sang the croupiers, and a minute later

came the warning signal, “_rien ne va plus!_” followed in a few long

seconds by the announcement of the winning number, red or black, odd

or even, and the swift scraping in of the lost stakes. And so it would

be all afternoon and into the night and the next day again and the

day after ... crack! a sudden shot broke through the great room and

everybody who was not watching a stake rushed into a corner, where some

unknown plunger had just taken the last plunge into eternity by blowing

out his brains. The attendants collected from every corner and formed

a hedge round the dead man. Quickly and soundlessly they began moving

him out by a side-door, while gamblers picking up their stakes ran to

dip a finger in his blood for luck. In five minutes he had disappeared

as though he had fallen off a liner into a boiling sea. Monte Carlo

cannot afford to have scandals on the premises any more than any

well-established and well-connected institution, and is generally

more successful than others in concealing them. Blood is soon mopped

up, especially if the passers believe that it is a charmed fluid. The

roulette ball was soon spinning round again, and the only trace of the

tragedy was the struggle of a dozen gamblers to sit where the suicide

had been sitting all the afternoon. It is a superstition that the dead

gambler’s spirit does not leave the rooms immediately with death, but

remains to avenge his ill luck on the bank; and against the unknown

forces of the underworld even the bank cannot win.

I had had enough of it, and we strolled out on the terrace, my

companion becoming amused to talk to such a novice in gambling matters

as I then was. From the altitude of twenty years’ experience he began

to give me his views on Luck, which some call Providence and some

the Deuce. “Gambling,” he said, “is worth while to me whether I win

or lose. When I win I cannot spend my money more pleasurably than by

playing it again till I lose in the end. The bank must win. Let it!”

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