At seven o’clock bore away for the Bell Rock, but finding a heavy sea

running on it were unable to land. The writer, however, had the

satisfaction to observe, with his telescope, that everything about the

beacon appeared entire: and although the sea had a most frightful

appearance, yet it was the opinion of every one that, since the erection

of the beacon, the Bell Rock was divested of many of its terrors, and had

it been possible to have got the boats hoisted out and manned, it might

have even been found practicable to land. At six it blew so hard that it

was found necessary to strike the topmast and take in a third reef of the

mainsail, and under this low canvas we soon reached St. Andrews Bay, and

got again under the lee of the land for the night. The artificers, being

sea-hardy, were quite reconciled to their quarters on board of the

Lighthouse yacht; but it is believed that hardly any consideration would

have induced them again to take up their abode in the floating light.

[Saturday, 26th Sept.]

At daylight the yacht steered towards the Bell Rock, and at eight a.m.

made fast to her moorings; at ten, all hands, to the amount of thirty,

landed, when the writer had the happiness to find that the beacon had

withstood the violence of the gale and the heavy breach of sea,

everything being found in the same state in which it had been left on the

21st. The artificers were now enabled to work upon the rock throughout

the whole day, both at low and high water, but it required the strictest

attention to the state of the weather, in case of their being overtaken

with a gale, which might prevent the possibility of getting them off the

rock.

Two somewhat memorable circumstances in the annals of the Bell Rock

attended the operations of this day: one was the removal of Mr. James

Dove, the foreman smith, with his apparatus, from the rock to the upper

part of the beacon, where the forge was now erected on a temporary

platform, laid on the cross beams or upper framing. The other was the

artificers having dined for the first time upon the rock, their dinner

being cooked on board of the yacht, and sent to them by one of the boats.

But what afforded the greatest happiness and relief was the removal of

the large bellows, which had all along been a source of much trouble and

perplexity, by their hampering and incommoding the boat which carried the

smiths and their apparatus.

[Saturday, 3rd Oct.]

The wind being west to-day, the weather was very favourable for

operations at the rock, and during the morning and evening tides, with

the aid of torchlight, the masons had seven hours’ work upon the site of

the building. The smiths and joiners, who landed at half-past six a.m.,

did not leave the rock till a quarter-past eleven p.m., having been at

work, with little intermission, for sixteen hours and three-quarters.

When the water left the rock, they were employed at the lower parts of

the beacon, and as the tide rose or fell, they shifted the place of their

operations. From these exertions, the fixing and securing of the beacon

made rapid advancement, as the men were now landed in the morning and

remained throughout the day. But, as a sudden change of weather might

have prevented their being taken off at the proper time of tide, a

quantity of bread and water was always kept on the beacon.

During this period of working at the beacon all the day, and often a

great part of the night, the writer was much on board of the tender; but,

while the masons could work on the rock, and frequently also while it was

covered by the tide, he remained on the beacon; especially during the

night, as he made a point of being on the rock to the latest hour, and

was generally the last person who stepped into the boat. He had laid

this down as part of his plan of procedure; and in this way had acquired,

in the course of the first season, a pretty complete knowledge and

experience of what could actually be done at the Bell Rock, under all

circumstances of the weather. By this means also his assistants, and the

artificers and mariners, got into a systematic habit of proceeding at the

commencement of the work, which, it is believed, continued throughout the

whole of the operations.

[Sunday, 4th Oct.]

The external part of the beacon was now finished, with its supports and

bracing-chains, and whatever else was considered necessary for its

stability in so far as the season would permit; and although much was

still wanting to complete this fabric, yet it was in such a state that it

could be left without much fear of the consequences of a storm. The

painting of the upper part was nearly finished this afternoon; and the

_Smeaton_ had brought off a quantity of brushwood and other articles, for

the purpose of heating or charring the lower part of the principal beams,

before being laid over with successive coats of boiling pitch, to the

height of from eight to twelve feet, or as high as the rise of

spring-tides. A small flagstaff having also been erected to-day, a flag

was displayed for the first time from the beacon, by which its

perspective effect was greatly improved. On this, as on all like

occasions at the Bell Rock, three hearty cheers were given; and the

steward served out a dram of rum to all hands, while the Lighthouse

yacht, _Smeaton_, and floating light, hoisted their colours in compliment

to the erection.

[Monday, 5th Oct.]

In the afternoon, and just as the tide’s work was over, Mr. John Rennie,

engineer, accompanied by his son Mr. George, on their way to the harbour

works of Fraserburgh, in Aberdeenshire, paid a visit to the Bell Rock, in

a boat from Arbroath. It being then too late in the tide for landing,

they remained on board of the Lighthouse yacht all night, when the

writer, who had now been secluded from society for several weeks, enjoyed

much of Mr. Rennie’s interesting conversation, both on general topics,

and professionally upon the progress of the Bell Rock works, on which he

was consulted as chief engineer.

[Tuesday, 6th Oct.]

The artificers landed this morning at nine, after which one of the boats

returned to the ship for the writer and Messrs. Rennie, who, upon

landing, were saluted with a display of the colours from the beacon and

by three cheers from the workmen. Everything was now in a prepared state

for leaving the rock, and giving up the works afloat for this season,

excepting some small articles, which would still occupy the smiths and

joiners for a few days longer. They accordingly shifted on board of the

_Smeaton_, while the yacht left the rock for Arbroath, with Messrs.

Rennie, the writer, and the remainder of the artificers. But, before

taking leave, the steward served out a farewell glass, when three hearty

cheers were given, and an earnest wish expressed that everything, in the

spring of 1808, might be found in the same state of good order as it was

now about to be left.

II—OPERATIONS OF 1808

[Monday, 29th Feb.]

The writer sailed from Arbroath at one a.m. in the Lighthouse yacht. At

seven the floating light was hailed, and all on board found to be well.

The crew were observed to have a very healthy-like appearance, and looked

better than at the close of the works upon the rock. They seemed only to

regret one thing, which was the secession of their cook, Thomas

Elliot—not on account of his professional skill, but for his facetious

and curious manner. Elliot had something peculiar in his history, and

was reported by his comrades to have seen better days. He was, however,

happy with his situation on board of the floating light, and, having a

taste for music, dancing, and acting plays, he contributed much to the

amusement of the ship’s company in their dreary abode during the winter

months. He had also recommended himself to their notice as a good

shipkeeper, for as it did not answer Elliot to go often ashore, he had

always given up his turn of leave to his neighbours. At his own desire

he was at length paid off, when he had a considerable balance of wages to

receive, which he said would be sufficient to carry him to the West

Indies, and he accordingly took leave of the Lighthouse service.

[Tuesday, 1st March]

At daybreak the Lighthouse yacht, attended by a boat from the floating

light, again stood towards the Bell Rock. The weather felt extremely

cold this morning, the thermometer being at 34 degrees, with the wind at

east, accompanied by occasional showers of snow, and the marine barometer

indicated 29.80. At half-past seven the sea ran with such force upon the

rock that it seemed doubtful if a landing could be effected. At

half-past eight, when it was fairly above water, the writer took his

place in the floating light’s boat with the artificers, while the yacht’s

boat followed, according to the general rule of having two boats afloat

in landing expeditions of this kind, that, in case of accident to one

boat, the other might assist. In several unsuccessful attempts the boats

were beat back by the breach of the sea upon the rock. On the eastern

side it separated into two distinct waves, which came with a sweep round

to the western side, where they met; and at the instance of their

confluence the water rose in spray to a considerable height. Watching

what the sailors term a _smooth_, we caught a favourable opportunity, and

in a very dexterous manner the boats were rowed between the two seas, and

made a favourable landing at the western creek.

At the latter end of last season, as was formerly noticed, the beacon was

painted white, and from the bleaching of the weather and the sprays of

the sea the upper parts were kept clean; but within the range of the tide

the principal beams were observed to be thickly coated with a green

stuff, the _conferva_ of botanists. Notwithstanding the intrusion of

these works, which had formerly banished the numerous seals that played

about the rock, they were now seen in great numbers, having been in an

almost undisturbed state for six months. It had now also, for the first

time, got some inhabitants of the feathered tribe: in particular the

scarth or cormorant, and the large herring-gull, had made the beacon a

resting-place, from its vicinity to their fishing-grounds. About a dozen

of these birds had rested upon the cross-beams, which, in some places,

were coated with their dung; and their flight, as the boats approached,

was a very unlooked-for indication of life and habitation on the Bell

Rock, conveying the momentary idea of the conversion of this fatal rock,

from being a terror to the mariner, into a residence of man and a

safeguard to shipping.

Upon narrowly examining the great iron stanchions with which the beams

were fixed to the rock, the writer had the satisfaction of finding that

there was not the least appearance of working or shifting at any of the

joints or places of connection; and, excepting the loosening of the

bracing-chains, everything was found in the same entire state in which it

had been left in the month of October. This, in the estimation of the

writer, was a matter of no small importance to the future success of the

work. He from that moment saw the practicability and propriety of

fitting up the beacon, not only as a place of refuge in case of accident

to the boats in landing, but as a residence for the artificers during the

working months.

While upon the top of the beacon the writer was reminded by the

landing-master that the sea was running high, and that it would be

necessary to set off while the rock afforded anything like shelter to the

boats, which by this time had been made fast by a long line to the

beacon, and rode with much agitation, each requiring two men with

boat-hooks to keep them from striking each other, or from ranging up

against the beacon. But even under these circumstances the greatest

confidence was felt by every one, from the security afforded by this

temporary erection. For, supposing the wind had suddenly increased to a

gale, and that it had been found unadvisable to go into the boats; or,

supposing they had drifted or sprung a leak from striking upon the rocks;

in any of these possible and not at all improbable cases, those who might

thus have been left upon the rock had now something to lay hold of, and,

though occupying this dreary habitation of the sea-gull and the

cormorant, affording only bread and water, yet _life_, would be

preserved, and the mind would still be supported by the hope of being

ultimately relieved.

[Wednesday, 25th May]

On the 25th of May the writer embarked at Arbroath, on board of the _Sir

Joseph Banks_, for the Bell Rock, accompanied by Mr. Logan senior,

foreman builder, with twelve masons and two smiths, together with

thirteen seamen, including the master, mate, and steward.

[Thursday, 26th May]

Mr. James Wilson, now commander of the _Pharos_, floating light, and

landing-master, in the room of Mr. Sinclair, who had left the service,

came into the writer’s cabin this morning at six o’clock, and intimated

that there was a good appearance of landing on the rock. Everything

being arranged, both boats proceeded in company, and at eight a.m. they

reached the rock. The lighthouse colours were immediately hoisted upon

the flagstaff of the beacon, a compliment which was duly returned by the

tender and floating light, when three hearty cheers were given, and a

glass of rum was served out to all hands to drink success to the

operations of 1808.

[Friday, 27th May]

This morning the wind was at east, blowing a fresh gale, the weather

being hazy, with a considerable breach of sea setting in upon the rock.

The morning bell was therefore rung, in some doubt as to the

practicability of making a landing. After allowing the rock to get fully

up, or to be sufficiently left by the tide, that the boats might have

some shelter from the range of the sea, they proceeded at 8 a.m., and

upon the whole made a pretty good landing; and after two hours and

three-quarters’ work returned to the ship in safety.

In the afternoon the wind considerably increased, and, as a pretty heavy

sea was still running, the tender rode very hard, when Mr. Taylor, the

commander, found it necessary to take in the bowsprit, and strike the

fore and main topmasts, that she might ride more easily. After

consulting about the state of the weather, it was resolved to leave the

artificers on board this evening, and carry only the smiths to the rock,

as the sharpening of the irons was rather behind, from their being so

much broken and blunted by the hard and tough nature of the rock, which

became much more compact and hard as the depth of excavation was

increased. Besides avoiding the risk of encumbering the boats with a

number of men who had not yet got the full command of the oar in a breach

of sea, the writer had another motive for leaving them behind. He wanted

to examine the site of the building without interruption, and to take the

comparative levels of the different inequalities of its area; and as it

would have been painful to have seen men standing idle upon the Bell

Rock, where all moved with activity, it was judged better to leave them

on board. The boats landed at half-past seven p.m., and the

landing-master, with the seamen, was employed during this tide in cutting

the seaweeds from the several paths leading to the landing-places, to

render walking more safe, for, from the slippery state of the surface of

the rock, many severe tumbles had taken place. In the meantime the

writer took the necessary levels, and having carefully examined the site

of the building and considered all its parts, it still appeared to be

necessary to excavate to the average depth of fourteen inches over the

whole area of the foundation.

[Saturday, 28th May]

The wind still continued from the eastward with a heavy swell; and to-day

it was accompanied with foggy weather and occasional showers of rain.

Notwithstanding this, such was the confidence which the erection of the

beacon had inspired that the boats landed the artificers on the rock

under very unpromising circumstances, at half-past eight, and they

continued at work till half-past eleven, being a period of three hours,

which was considered a great tide’s work in the present low state of the

foundation. Three of the masons on board were so afflicted with

sea-sickness that they had not been able to take any food for almost

three days, and they were literally assisted into the boats this morning

by their companions. It was, however, not a little surprising to see how

speedily these men revived upon landing on the rock and eating a little

dulse. Two of them afterwards assisted the sailors in collecting the

chips of stone and carrying them out of the way of the pickmen; but the

third complained of a pain in his head, and was still unable to do

anything. Instead of returning to the tender with the boats, these three

men remained on the beacon all day, and had their victuals sent to them

along with the smiths’. From Mr. Dove, the foreman smith, they had much

sympathy, for he preferred remaining on the beacon at all hazards, to be

himself relieved from the malady of sea-sickness. The wind continuing

high, with a heavy sea, and the tide falling late, it was not judged

proper to land the artificers this evening, but in the twilight the boats

were sent to fetch the people on board who had been left on the rock.

[Sunday, 29th May]

The wind was from the S.W. to-day, and the signal-bell rung, as usual,

about an hour before the period for landing on the rock. The writer was

rather surprised, however, to hear the landing-master repeatedly call,

‘All hands for the rock!’ and, coming on deck, he was disappointed to

find the seamen only in the boats. Upon inquiry, it appeared that some

misunderstanding had taken place about the wages of the artificers for

Sundays. They had preferred wages for seven days statedly to the former

mode of allowing a day for each tide’s work on Sunday, as they did not

like the appearance of working for double or even treble wages on Sunday,

and would rather have it understood that their work on that day arose

more from the urgency of the case than with a view to emolument. This

having been judged creditable to their religious feelings, and readily

adjusted to their wish, the boats proceeded to the rock, and the work

commenced at nine a.m.

[Monday, 30th May]

Mr. Francis Watt commenced, with five joiners, to fit up a temporary

platform upon the beacon, about twenty-five feet above the highest part

of the rock. This platform was to be used as the site of the smith’s

forge, after the beacon should be fitted up as a barrack; and here also

the mortar was to be mixed and prepared for the building, and it was

accordingly termed the Mortar Gallery.

The landing-master’s crew completed the discharging from the _Smeaton_ of

her cargo of the cast-iron rails and timber. It must not here be omitted

to notice that the _Smeaton_ took in ballast from the Bell Rock,

consisting of the shivers or chips of stone produced by the workmen in

preparing the site of the building, which were now accumulating in great

quantities on the rock. These the boats loaded, after discharging the

iron. The object in carrying off these chips, besides ballasting the

vessel, was to get them permanently out of the way, as they were apt to

shift about from place to place with every gale of wind; and it often

required a considerable time to clear the foundation a second time of

this rubbish. The circumstance of ballasting a ship at the Bell Rock

afforded great entertainment, especially to the sailors; and it was

perhaps with truth remarked that the _Smeaton_ was the first vessel that

had ever taken on board ballast at the Bell Rock. Mr. Pool, the

commander of this vessel, afterwards acquainted the writer that, when the

ballast was landed upon the quay at Leith, many persons carried away

specimens of it, as part of a cargo from the Bell Rock; when he added,

that such was the interest excited, from the number of specimens carried

away, that some of his friends suggested that he should have sent the

whole to the Cross of Edinburgh, where each piece might have sold for a

penny.

[Tuesday, 31st May]

In the evening the boats went to the rock, and brought the joiners and

smiths, and their sickly companions, on board of the tender. These also

brought with them two baskets full of fish, which they had caught at

high-water from the beacon, reporting, at the same time, to their

comrades, that the fish were swimming in such numbers over the rock at

high-water that it was completely hid from their sight, and nothing seen

but the movement of thousands of fish. They were almost exclusively of

the species called the podlie, or young coal-fish. This discovery, made

for the first time to-day by the workmen, was considered fortunate, as an

additional circumstance likely to produce an inclination among the

artificers to take up their residence in the beacon, when it came to be

fitted up as a barrack.

[Tuesday, 7th June]

At three o’clock in the morning the ship’s bell was rung as the signal

for landing at the rock. When the landing was to be made before

breakfast, it was customary to give each of the artificers and seamen a

dram and a biscuit, and coffee was prepared by the steward for the

cabins. Exactly at four o’clock the whole party landed from three boats,

including one of those belonging to the floating light, with a part of

that ship’s crew, which always attended the works in moderate weather.

The landing-master’s boat, called the _Seaman_, but more commonly called

the _Lifeboat_, took the lead. The next boat, called the _Mason_, was

generally steered by the writer; while the floating light’s boat,

_Pharos_, was under the management of the boatswain of that ship.

Having now so considerable a party of workmen and sailors on the rock, it

may be proper here to notice how their labours were directed.

Preparations having been made last month for the erection of a second

forge upon the beacon, the smiths commenced their operations both upon

the lower and higher platforms. They were employed in sharpening the

picks and irons for the masons, and in making bats and other apparatus of

various descriptions connected with the fitting of the railways. The

landing-master’s crew were occupied in assisting the millwrights in

laying the railways to hand. Sailors, of all other descriptions of men,

are the most accommodating in the use of their hands. They worked freely

with the boring-irons, and assisted in all the operations of the

railways, acting by turns as boatmen, seamen, and artificers. We had no

such character on the Bell Rock as the common labourer. All the

operations of this department were cheerfully undertaken by the seamen,

who, both on the rock and on shipboard, were the inseparable companions

of every work connected with the erection of the Bell Rock Lighthouse.

It will naturally be supposed that about twenty-five masons, occupied

with their picks in executing and preparing the foundation of the

lighthouse, in the course of a tide of about three hours, would make a

considerable impression upon an area even of forty-two feet in diameter.

But in proportion as the foundation was deepened, the rock was found to

be much more hard and difficult to work, while the baling and pumping of

water became much more troublesome. A joiner was kept almost constantly

employed in fitting the picks to their handles, which, as well as the

points to the irons, were very frequently broken.

The Bell Rock this morning presented by far the most busy and active

appearance it had exhibited since the erection of the principal beams of

the beacon. The surface of the rock was crowded with men, the two forges

flaming, the one above the other, upon the beacon, while the anvils

thundered with the rebounding noise of their wooden supports, and formed

a curious contrast with the occasional clamour of the surges. The wind

was westerly, and the weather being extremely agreeable, as soon after

breakfast as the tide had sufficiently overflowed the rock to float the

boats over it, the smiths, with a number of the artificers, returned to

the beacon, carrying their fishing-tackle along with them. In the course

of the forenoon, the beacon exhibited a still more extraordinary

appearance than the rock had done in the morning. The sea being smooth,

it seemed to be afloat upon the water, with a number of men supporting

themselves in all the variety of attitude and position: while, from the

upper part of this wooden house, the volumes of smoke which ascended from

the forges gave the whole a very curious and fanciful appearance.

In the course of this tide it was observed that a heavy swell was setting

in from the eastward, and the appearance of the sky indicated a change of

weather, while the wind was shifting about. The barometer also had

fallen from 30 in. to 29.6. It was, therefore, judged prudent to shift

the vessel to the S.W. or more distant buoy. Her bowsprit was also soon

afterwards taken in, the topmasts struck, and everything made _snug_, as

seamen term it, for a gale. During the course of the night the wind

increased and shifted to the eastward, when the vessel rolled very hard,

and the sea often broke over her bows with great force.

[Wednesday, 8th June]

Although the motion of the tender was much less than that of the floating

light—at least, in regard to the rolling motion—yet she _sended_, or

pitched, much. Being also of a very handsome build, and what seamen term

very _clean aft_, the sea often struck the counter with such force that

the writer, who possessed the aftermost cabin, being unaccustomed to this

new vessel, could not divest himself of uneasiness; for when her stern

fell into the sea, it struck with so much violence as to be more like the

resistance of a rock than the sea. The water, at the same time, often

rushed with great force up the rudder-case, and, forcing up the valve of

the water-closet, the floor of his cabin was at times laid under water.

The gale continued to increase, and the vessel rolled and pitched in such

a manner that the hawser by which the tender was made fast to the buoy

snapped, and she went adrift. In the act of swinging round to the wind

she shipped a very heavy sea, which greatly alarmed the artificers, who

imagined that we had got upon the rock; but this, from the direction of

the wind, was impossible. The writer, however, sprung upon deck, where

he found the sailors busily employed in rigging out the bowsprit and in

setting sail. From the easterly direction of the wind, it was considered

most advisable to steer for the Firth of Forth, and there wait a change

of weather. At two p.m. we accordingly passed the Isle of May, at six

anchored in Leith Roads, and at eight the writer landed, when he came in

upon his friends, who were not a little surprised at his unexpected

appearance, which gave an instantaneous alarm for the safety of things at

the Bell Rock.

[Thursday, 9th June]

The wind still continued to blow very hard at E. by N., and the _Sir

Joseph Banks_ rode heavily, and even drifted with both anchors ahead, in

Leith Roads. The artificers did not attempt to leave the ship last

night; but there being upwards of fifty people on board, and the decks

greatly lumbered with the two large boats, they were in a very crowded

and impatient state on board. But to-day they got ashore, and amused

themselves by walking about the streets of Edinburgh, some in very humble

apparel, from having only the worst of their jackets with them, which,

though quite suitable for their work, were hardly fit for public

inspection, being not only tattered, but greatly stained with the red

colour of the rock.

[Friday, 10th June]

To-day the wind was at S.E., with light breezes and foggy weather. At

six a.m. the writer again embarked for the Bell Rock, when the vessel

immediately sailed. At eleven p.m., there being no wind, the

kedge-anchor was _let go_ off Anstruther, one of the numerous towns on

the coast of Fife, where we waited the return of the tide.

[Saturday, 11th June]

At six a.m. the _Sir Joseph_ got under weigh, and at eleven was again

made fast to the southern buoy at the Bell Rock. Though it was now late

in the tide, the writer, being anxious to ascertain the state of things

after the gale, landed with the artificers to the number of forty-four.

Everything was found in an entire state; but, as the tide was nearly

gone, only half an hour’s work had been got when the site of the building

was overflowed. In the evening the boats again landed at nine, and after

a good tide’s work of three hours with torchlight, the work was left off

at midnight. To the distant shipping the appearance of things under

night on the Bell Rock, when the work was going forward, must have been

very remarkable, especially to those who were strangers to the

operations. Mr. John Reid, principal lightkeeper, who also acted as

master of the floating light during the working months at the rock,

described the appearance of numerous lights situated so low in the water,

when seen at the distance of two or three miles, as putting him in mind

of Milton’s description of the fiends in the lower regions, adding, ‘for

it seems greatly to surpass Will-o’-the-Wisp, or any of those earthly

spectres of which we have so often heard.’

[Monday, 13th June]

From the difficulties attending the landing on the rock, owing to the

breach of sea which had for days past been around it, the artificers

showed some backwardness at getting into the boats this morning; but

after a little explanation this was got over. It was always observable

that for some time after anything like danger had occurred at the rock,

the workmen became much more cautious, and on some occasions their

timidity was rather troublesome. It fortunately happened, however, that

along with the writer’s assistants and the sailors there were also some

of the artificers themselves who felt no such scruples, and in this way

these difficulties were the more easily surmounted. In matters where

life is in danger it becomes necessary to treat even unfounded prejudices

with tenderness, as an accident, under certain circumstances, would not

only have been particularly painful to those giving directions, but have

proved highly detrimental to the work, especially in the early stages of

its advancement.

At four o’clock fifty-eight persons landed; but the tides being extremely

languid, the water only left the higher parts of the rock, and no work

could be done at the site of the building. A third forge was, however,

put in operation during a short time, for the greater conveniency of

sharpening the picks and irons, and for purposes connected with the

preparations for fixing the railways on the rock. The weather towards

the evening became thick and foggy, and there was hardly a breath of wind

to ruffle the surface of the water. Had it not, therefore, been for the

noise from the anvils of the smiths who had been left on the beacon

throughout the day, which afforded a guide for the boats, a landing could

not have been attempted this evening, especially with such a company of

artificers. This circumstance confirmed the writer’s opinion with regard

to the propriety of connecting large bells to be rung with machinery in

the lighthouse, to be tolled day and night during the continuance of

foggy weather.

[Thursday, 23rd June]

The boats landed this evening, when the artificers had again two hours’

work. The weather still continuing very thick and foggy, more difficulty

was experienced in getting on board of the vessels to-night than had

occurred on any previous occasion, owing to a light breeze of wind which

carried the sound of the bell, and the other signals made on board of the

vessels, away from the rock. Having fortunately made out the position of

the sloop _Smeaton_ at the N.E. buoy—to which we were much assisted by

the barking of the ship’s dog,—we parted with the _Smeaton’s_ boat, when

the boats of the tender took a fresh departure for that vessel, which lay

about half a mile to the south-westward. Yet such is the very deceiving

state of the tides, that, although there was a small binnacle and compass

in the landing-master’s boat, we had, nevertheless, passed the _Sir

Joseph_ a good way, when, fortunately, one of the sailors catched the

sound of a blowing-horn. The only fire-arms on board were a pair of

swivels of one-inch calibre; but it is quite surprising how much the

sound is lost in foggy weather, as the report was heard but at a very

short distance. The sound from the explosion of gunpowder is so

instantaneous that the effect of the small guns was not so good as either

the blowing of a horn or the tolling of a bell, which afforded a more

constant and steady direction for the pilot.

[Wednesday, 6th July]

Landed on the rock with the three boats belonging to the tender at five

p.m., and began immediately to bale the water out of the foundation-pit

with a number of buckets, while the pumps were also kept in action with

relays of artificers and seamen. The work commenced upon the higher

parts of the foundation as the water left them, but it was now pretty

generally reduced to a level. About twenty men could be conveniently

employed at each pump, and it is quite astonishing in how short a time so

great a body of water could be drawn off. The water in the

foundation-pit at this time measured about two feet in depth, on an area

of forty-two feet in diameter, and yet it was drawn off in the course of

about half an hour. After this the artificers commenced with their picks

and continued at work for two hours and a half, some of the sailors being

at the same time busily employed in clearing the foundation of chips and

in conveying the irons to and from the smiths on the beacon, where they

were sharped. At eight o’clock the sea broke in upon us and overflowed

the foundation-pit, when the boats returned to the tender.

[Thursday, 7th July]

The landing-master’s bell rung this morning about four o’clock, and at

half-past five, the foundation being cleared, the work commenced on the

site of the building. But from the moment of landing, the squad of

joiners and millwrights was at work upon the higher parts of the rock in

laying the railways, while the anvils of the smith resounded on the

beacon, and such columns of smoke ascended from the forges that they were

often mistaken by strangers at a distance for a ship on fire. After

continuing three hours at work the foundation of the building was again

overflowed, and the boats returned to the ship at half-past eight

o’clock. the masons and pickmen had, at this period, a pretty long day on

board of the tender, but the smiths and joiners were kept constantly at

work upon the beacon, the stability and great conveniency of which had

now been so fully shown that no doubt remained as to the propriety of

fitting it up as a barrack. The workmen were accordingly employed,

during the period of high-water, in making preparations for this purpose.

The foundation-pit now assumed the appearance of a great platform, and

the late tides had been so favourable that it became apparent that the

first course, consisting of a few irregular and detached stones for

making up certain inequalities in the interior parts of the site of the

building, might be laid in the course of the present spring-tides.

Having been enabled to-day to get the dimensions of the foundation, or

first stone, accurately taken, a mould was made of its figure, when the

writer left the rock, after the tide’s work of this morning, in a fast

rowing-boat for Arbroath; and, upon landing, two men were immediately set

to work upon one of the blocks from Mylnefield quarry, which was prepared

in the course of the following day, as the stone-cutters relieved each

other, and worked both night and day, so that it was sent off in one of

the stone-lighters without delay.

[Saturday, 9th July]

The site of the foundation-stone was very difficult to work, from its

depth in the rock; but being now nearly prepared, it formed a very

agreeable kind of pastime at high-water for all hands to land the stone

itself upon the rock. The landing-master’s crew and artificers

accordingly entered with great spirit into this operation. The stone was

placed upon the deck of the _Hedderwick_ praam-boat, which had just been

brought from Leith, and was decorated with colours for the occasion.

Flags were also displayed from the shipping in the offing, and upon the

beacon. Here the writer took his station with the greater part of the

artificers, who supported themselves in every possible position while the

boats towed the praam from her moorings and brought her immediately over

the site of the building, where her grappling anchors were let go. The

stone was then lifted off the deck by a tackle hooked into a Lewis bat

inserted into it, when it was gently lowered into the water and grounded

on the site of the building, amidst the cheering acclamations of about

sixty persons.

[Sunday, 10th July]

At eleven o’clock the foundation-stone was laid to hand. It was of a

square form, containing about twenty cubic feet, and had the figures, or

date, of 1808 simply cut upon it with a chisel. A derrick, or spar of

timber, having been erected at the edge of the hole and guyed with ropes,

the stone was then hooked to the tackle and lowered into its place, when

the writer, attended by his assistants—Mr. Peter Logan, Mr. Francis Watt,

and Mr. James Wilson,—applied the square, the level, and the mallet, and

pronounced the following benediction: ‘May the great Architect of the

Universe complete and bless this building,’ on which three hearty cheers

were given, and success to the future operations was drunk with the

greatest enthusiasm.

[Tuesday, 26th July]

The wind being at S.E. this evening, we had a pretty heavy swell of sea

upon the rock, and some difficulty attended our getting off in safety, as

the boats got aground in the creek and were in danger of being upset.

Upon extinguishing the torchlights, about twelve in number, the darkness

of the night seemed quite horrible; the water being also much charged

with the phosphorescent appearance which is familiar to every one on

shipboard, the waves, as they dashed upon the rock, were in some degree

like so much liquid flame. The scene, upon the whole, was truly awful!

[Wednesday, 27th July]

In leaving the rock this evening everything, after the torches were

extinguished, had the same dismal appearance as last night, but so

perfectly acquainted were the landing-master and his crew with the

position of things at the rock, that comparatively little inconveniency

was experienced on these occasions when the weather was moderate; such is

the effect of habit, even in the most unpleasant situations. If, for

example, it had been proposed to a person accustomed to a city life, at

once to take up his quarters off a sunken reef and land upon it in boats

at all hours of the night, the proposition must have appeared quite

impracticable and extravagant; but this practice coming progressively

upon the artificers, it was ultimately undertaken with the greatest

alacrity. Notwithstanding this, however, it must be acknowledged that it

was not till after much labour and peril, and many an anxious hour, that

the writer is enabled to state that the site of the Bell Rock Lighthouse

is fully prepared for the first entire course of the building.

[Friday, 12th Aug.]

The artificers landed this morning at half-past ten, and after an hour

and a half’s work eight stones were laid, which completed the first

entire course of the building, consisting of 123 blocks, the last of

which was laid with three hearty cheers.

[Saturday, 10th Sept.]

Landed at nine a.m., and by a quarter-past twelve noon twenty-three

stones had been laid. The works being now somewhat elevated by the lower

courses, we got quit of the very serious inconvenience of pumping water

to clear the foundation-pit. This gave much facility to the operations,

and was noticed with expressions of as much happiness by the artificers

as the seamen had shown when relieved of the continual trouble of

carrying the smith’s bellows off the rock prior to the erection of the

beacon.

[Wednesday, 21st Sept.]

Mr. Thomas Macurich, mate of the _Smeaton_, and James Scott, one of the

crew, a young man about eighteen years of age, immediately went into

their boat to make fast a hawser to the ring in the top of the floating

buoy of the moorings, and were forthwith to proceed to land their cargo,

so much wanted, at the rock. The tides at this period were very strong,

and the mooring-chain, when sweeping the ground, had caught hold of a

rock or piece of wreck by which the chain was so shortened that when the

tide flowed the buoy got almost under water, and little more than the

ring appeared at the surface. When Macurich and Scott were in the act of

making the hawser fast to the ring, the chain got suddenly disentangled

at the bottom, and this large buoy, measuring about seven feet in height

and three feet in diameter at the middle, tapering to both ends, being

what seamen term a _Nun-buoy_, vaulted or sprung up with such force that

it upset the boat, which instantly filled with water. Mr. Macurich, with

much exertion, succeeded in getting hold of the boat’s gunwale, still

above the surface of the water, and by this means was saved; but the

young man Scott was unfortunately drowned. He had in all probability

been struck about the head by the ring of the buoy, for although

surrounded with the oars and the thwarts of the boat which floated near

him, yet he seemed entirely to want the power of availing himself of such

assistance, and appeared to be quite insensible, while Pool, the master

of the _Smeaton_, called loudly to him; and before assistance could be

got from the tender, he was carried away by the strength of the current

and disappeared.

The young man Scott was a great favourite in the service, having had

something uncommonly mild and complaisant in his manner; and his loss was

therefore universally regretted. The circumstances of his case were also

peculiarly distressing to his mother, as her husband, who was a seaman,

had for three years past been confined to a French prison, and the

deceased was the chief support of the family. In order in some measure

to make up the loss to the poor woman for the monthly aliment regularly

allowed her by her late son, it was suggested that a younger boy, a

brother of the deceased, might be taken into the service. This appeared

to be rather a delicate proposition, but it was left to the

landing-master to arrange according to circumstances; such was the

resignation, and at the same time the spirit, of the poor woman, that she

readily accepted the proposal, and in a few days the younger Scott was

actually afloat in the place of his brother. On representing this

distressing case to the Board, the Commissioners were pleased to grant an

annuity of £5 to Scott’s mother.

The _Smeaton_, not having been made fast to the buoy, had, with the

ebb-tide, drifted to leeward a considerable way eastward of the rock, and

could not, till the return of the flood-tide, be worked up to her

moorings, so that the present tide was lost, notwithstanding all

exertions which had been made both ashore and afloat with this cargo.

The artificers landed at six a.m.; but, as no materials could be got upon

the rock this morning, they were employed in boring trenail holes and in

various other operations, and after four hours’ work they returned on

board the tender. When the _Smeaton_ got up to her moorings, the

landing-master’s crew immediately began to unload her. There being too

much wind for towing the praams in the usual way, they were warped to the

rock in the most laborious manner by their windlasses, with successive

grapplings and hawsers laid out for this purpose. At six p.m. the

artificers landed, and continued at work till half-past ten, when the

remaining seventeen stones were laid which completed the third entire

course, or fourth of the lighthouse, with which the building operations

were closed for the season.

III—OPERATIONS OF 1809

[Wednesday, 24th May]

The last night was the first that the writer, had passed in his old

quarters on board of the floating light for about twelve months, when the

weather was so fine and the sea so smooth that even here he felt but

little or no motion, excepting at the turn of the tide, when the vessel

gets into what the seamen term the _trough of the sea_. At six a.m. Mr.

Watt, who conducted the operations of the railways and beacon-house, had

landed with nine artificers. At half-past one p.m. Mr. Peter Logan had

also landed with fifteen masons, and immediately proceeded to set up the

crane. The sheer-crane or apparatus for lifting the stones out of the

praam-boats at the eastern creek had been already erected, and the

railways now formed about two-thirds of an entire circle round the

building: some progress had likewise been made with the reach towards the

western landing-place. The floors being laid, the beacon now assumed the

appearance of a habitation. The _Smeaton_ was at her moorings, with the

_Fernie_ praam-boat astern, for which she was laying down moorings, and

the tender being also at her station, the Bell Rock had again put on its

former busy aspect.

[Wednesday, 31st May]

The landing-master’s bell, often no very favourite sound, rung at six

this morning; but on this occasion, it is believed, it was gladly

received by all on board, as the welcome signal of the return of better

weather. The masons laid thirteen stones to-day, which the seamen had

landed, together with other building materials. During these twenty-four

hours the wind was from the south, blowing fresh breezes, accompanied

with showers of snow. In the morning the snow showers were so thick that

it was with difficulty the landing-master, who always steered the leading

boat, could make his way to the rock through the drift. But at the Bell

Rock neither snow nor rain, nor fog nor wind, retarded the progress of

the work, if unaccompanied by a heavy swell or breach of the sea.

The weather during the months of April and May had been uncommonly

boisterous, and so cold that the thermometer seldom exceeded 40°, while

the barometer was generally about 29.50. We had not only hail and sleet,

but the snow on the last day of May lay on the decks and rigging of the

ship to the depth of about three inches; and, although now entering upon

the month of June, the length of the day was the chief indication of

summer. Yet such is the effect of habit, and such was the expertness of

the landing-master’s crew, that, even in this description of weather,

seldom a tide’s work was lost. Such was the ardour and zeal of the heads

of the several departments at the rock, including Mr. Peter Logan,

foreman builder, Mr. Francis Watt, foreman millwright, and Captain

Wilson, landing-master, that it was on no occasion necessary to address

them, excepting in the way of precaution or restraint. Under these

circumstances, however, the writer not unfrequently felt considerable

anxiety, of which this day’s experience will afford an example.

[Thursday, 1st June]

This morning, at a quarter-past eight, the artificers were landed as

usual, and, after three hours and three-quarters’ work, five stones were

laid, the greater part of this tide having been taken up in completing

the boring and trenailing of the stones formerly laid. At noon the

writer, with the seamen and artificers, proceeded to the tender, leaving

on the beacon the joiners, and several of those who were troubled with

sea-sickness—among whom was Mr. Logan, who remained with Mr.

Watt—counting altogether eleven persons. During the first and middle

parts of these twenty-four hours the wind was from the east, blowing what

the seamen term ‘fresh breezes’; but in the afternoon it shifted to

E.N.E., accompanied with so heavy a swell of sea that the _Smeaton_ and

tender struck their topmasts, launched in their bolt-sprits, and ‘made

all snug’ for a gale. At four p.m. the _Smeaton_ was obliged to slip her

moorings, and passed the tender, drifting before the wind, with only the

foresail set. In passing, Mr. Pool hailed that he must run for the Firth

of Forth to prevent the vessel from ‘riding under.’

On board of the tender the writer’s chief concern was about the eleven

men left upon the beacon. Directions were accordingly given that

everything about the vessel should be put in the best possible state, to

present as little resistance to the wind as possible, that she might have

the better chance of riding out the gale. Among these preparations the

best bower cable was bent, so as to have a second anchor in readiness in

case the mooring-hawser should give way, that every means might be used

for keeping the vessel within sight of the prisoners on the beacon, and

thereby keep them in as good spirits as possible. From the same motive

the boats were kept afloat that they might be less in fear of the vessel

leaving her station. The landing-master had, however, repeatedly

expressed his anxiety for the safety of the boats, and wished much to

have them hoisted on board. At seven p.m. one of the boats, as he

feared, was unluckily filled with sea from a wave breaking into her, and

it was with great difficulty that she could be baled out and got on

board, with the loss of her oars, rudder, and loose thwarts. Such was

the motion of the ship that in taking this boat on board her gunwale was

stove in, and she otherwise received considerable damage. Night

approached, but it was still found quite impossible to go near the rock.

Consulting, therefore, the safety of the second boat, she also was

hoisted on board of the tender.

At this time the cabins of the beacon were only partially covered, and

had neither been provided with bedding nor a proper fireplace, while the

stock of provisions was but slender. In these uncomfortable

circumstances the people on the beacon were left for the night, nor was

the situation of those on board of the tender much better. The rolling

and pitching motion of the ship was excessive; and, excepting to those

who had been accustomed to a residence in the floating light, it seemed

quite intolerable. Nothing was heard but the hissing of the winds and

the creaking of the bulkheads or partitions of the ship; the night was,

therefore, spent in the most unpleasant reflections upon the condition of

the people on the beacon, especially in the prospect of the tender being

driven from her moorings. But, even in such a case, it afforded some

consolation that the stability of the fabric was never doubted, and that

the boats of the floating light were at no great distance, and ready to

render the people on the rock the earliest assistance which the weather

would permit. The writer’s cabin being in the sternmost part of the

ship, which had what sailors term a good entry, or was sharp built, the

sea, as before noticed, struck her counter with so much violence that the

water, with a rushing noise, continually forced its way up the

rudder-case, lifted the valve of the water-closet, and overran the cabin

floor. In these circumstances daylight was eagerly looked for, and

hailed with delight, as well by those afloat as by the artificers upon

the rock.

[Friday, 2nd June]

In the course of the night the writer held repeated conversations with

the officer on watch, who reported that the weather continued much in the

same state, and that the barometer still indicated 29.20 inches. At six

a.m. the landing-master considered the weather to have somewhat

moderated; and, from certain appearances of the sky, he was of opinion

that a change for the better would soon take place. He accordingly

proposed to attempt a landing at low-water, and either get the people off

the rock, or at least ascertain what state they were in. At nine a.m. he

left the vessel with a boat well manned, carrying with him a supply of

cooked provisions and a tea-kettle full of mulled port wine for the

people on the beacon, who had not had any regular diet for about thirty

hours, while they were exposed during that period, in a great measure,

both to the winds and the sprays of the sea. The boat having succeeded

in landing, she returned at eleven a.m. with the artificers, who had got

off with considerable difficulty, and who were heartily welcomed by all

on board.

Upon inquiry it appeared that three of the stones last laid upon the

building had been partially lifted from their beds by the force of the

sea, and were now held only by the trenails, and that the cast-iron

sheer-crane had again been thrown down and completely broken. With

regard to the beacon, the sea at high-water had lifted part of the mortar

gallery or lowest floor, and washed away all the lime-casks and other

movable articles from it; but the principal parts of this fabric had

sustained no damage. On pressing Messrs. Logan and Watt on the situation

of things in the course of the night, Mr. Logan emphatically said: ‘That

the beacon had an _ill-faured_ {171a} _twist_ when the sea broke upon it

at high-water, but that they were not very apprehensive of danger.’ On

inquiring as to how they spent the night, it appeared that they had made

shift to keep a small fire burning, and by means of some old sails

defended themselves pretty well from the sea sprays.

It was particularly mentioned that by the exertions of James Glen, one of

the joiners, a number of articles were saved from being washed off the

mortar gallery. Glen was also very useful in keeping up the spirits of

the forlorn party. In the early part of life he had undergone many

curious adventures at sea, which he now recounted somewhat after the

manner of the tales of the _Arabian Nights_. When one observed that the

beacon was a most comfortless lodging, Glen would presently introduce

some of his exploits and hardships, in comparison with which the state of

things at the beacon bore an aspect of comfort and happiness. Looking to

their slender stock of provisions, and their perilous and uncertain

chance of speedy relief, he would launch out into an account of one of

his expeditions in the North Sea, when the vessel, being much disabled in

a storm, was driven before the wind with the loss of almost all their

provisions; and the ship being much infested with rats, the crew hunted

these vermin with great eagerness to help their scanty allowance. By

such means Glen had the address to make his companions, in some measure,

satisfied, or at least passive, with regard to their miserable prospects

upon this half-tide rock in the middle of the ocean. This incident is

noticed, more particularly, to show the effects of such a happy turn of

mind, even under the most distressing and ill-fated circumstances.

[Saturday, 17th June]

At eight a.m. the artificers and sailors, forty-five in number, landed on

the rock, and after four hours’ work seven stones were laid. The

remainder of this tide, from the threatening appearance of the weather,

was occupied in trenailing and making all things as secure as possible.

At twelve noon the rock and building were again overflowed, when the

masons and seamen went on board of the tender, but Mr. Watt, with his

squad of ten men, remained on the beacon throughout the day. As it blew

fresh from the N.W. in the evening, it was found impracticable either to

land the building artificers or to take the artificers off the beacon,

and they were accordingly left there all night, but in circumstances very

different from those of the 1st of this month. The house, being now in a

more complete state, was provided with bedding, and they spent the night

pretty well, though they complained of having been much disturbed at the

time of high-water by the shaking and tremulous motion of their house and

by the plashing noise of the sea upon mortar gallery. Here James Glen’s

versatile powers were again at work in cheering up those who seemed to be

alarmed, and in securing everything as far as possible. On this occasion

he had only to recall to the recollections of some of them the former

night which they had spent on the beacon, the wind and sea being then

much higher, and their habitation in a far less comfortable state.

The wind still continuing to blow fresh from the N.W., at five p.m. the

writer caused a signal to be made from the tender for the _Smeaton and

Patriot_ to slip their moorings, when they ran for Lunan Bay, an

anchorage on the east side of the Redhead. Those on board of the tender

spent but a very rough night, and perhaps slept less soundly than their

companions on the beacon, especially as the wind was at N.W., which

caused the vessel to ride with her stern towards the Bell Rock; so that,

in the event of anything giving way, she could hardly have escaped being

stranded upon it.

[Sunday, 18th June]

The weather having moderated to-day, the wind shifted to the westward.

At a quarter-past nine a.m. the artificers landed from the tender and had

the pleasure to find their friends who had been left on the rock quite

hearty, alleging that the beacon was the preferable quarters of the two.

[Saturday, 24th June]

Mr. Peter Logan, the foreman builder, and his squad, twenty-one in

number, landed this morning at three o’clock, and continued at work four

hours and a quarter, and after laying seventeen stones returned to the

tender. At six a.m. Mr. Francis Watt and his squad of twelve men landed,

and proceeded with their respective operations at the beacon and

railways, and were left on the rock during the whole day without the

necessity of having any communication with the tender, the kitchen of the

beacon-house being now fitted up. It was to-day, also, that Peter

Fortune—a most obliging and well-known character in the Lighthouse

service—was removed from the tender to the beacon as cook and steward,

with a stock of provisions as ample as his limited store-room would

admit.

When as many stones were built as comprised this day’s work, the demand

for mortar was proportionally increased, and the task of the

mortar-makers on these occasions was both laborious and severe. This

operation was chiefly performed by John Watt—a strong, active quarrier by

profession,—who was a perfect character in his way, and extremely zealous

in his department. While the operations of the mortar-makers continued,

the forge upon the gallery was not generally in use; but, as the working

hours of the builders extended with the height of the building, the forge

could not be so long wanted, and then a sad confusion often ensued upon

the circumscribed floor of the mortar gallery, as the operations of Watt

and his assistants trenched greatly upon those of the smiths. Under

these circumstances the boundary of the smiths was much circumscribed,

and they were personally annoyed, especially in blowy weather, with the

dust of the lime in its powdered state. The mortar-makers, on the other

hand, were often not a little distressed with the heat of the fire and

the sparks elicited on the anvil, and not unaptly complained that they

were placed between the ‘devil and the deep sea.’

[Sunday, 25th June]

The work being now about ten feet in height, admitted of a rope-ladder

being distended {174a} between the beacon and the building. By this

‘Jacob’s Ladder,’ as the seamen termed it, a communication was kept up

with the beacon while the rock was considerably under water. One end of

it being furnished with tackle-blocks, was fixed to the beams of the

beacon, at the level of the mortar gallery, while the further end was

connected with the upper course of the building by means of two Lewis

bats which were lifted from course to course as the work advanced. In

the same manner a rope furnished with a travelling pulley was distended

for the purpose of transporting the mortar-buckets, and other light

articles between the beacon and the building, which also proved a great

conveniency to the work. At this period the rope-ladder and tackle for

the mortar had a descent from the beacon to the building; by and by they

were on a level, and towards the end of the season, when the solid part

had attained its full height, the ascent was from the mortar gallery to

the building.

[Friday, 30th June]

The artificers landed on the rock this morning at a quarter-past six, and

remained at work five hours. The cooking apparatus being now in full

operation, all hands had breakfast on the beacon at the usual hour, and

remained there throughout the day. The crane upon the building had to be

raised to-day from the eighth to the ninth course, an operation which now

required all the strength that could be mustered for working the

guy-tackles; for as the top of the crane was at this time about

thirty-five feet above the rock, it became much more unmanageable. While

the beam was in the act of swinging round from one guy to another, a

great strain was suddenly brought upon the opposite tackle, with the end

of which the artificers had very improperly neglected to take a turn

round some stationary object, which would have given them the complete

command of the tackle. Owing to this simple omission, the crane got a

preponderancy to one side, and fell upon the building with a terrible

crash. The surrounding artificers immediately flew in every direction to

get out of its way; but Michael Wishart, the principal builder, having

unluckily stumbled upon one of the uncut trenails, fell upon his back.

His body fortunately got between the movable beam and the upright shaft

of the crane, and was thus saved; but his feet got entangled with the

wheels of the crane and were severely injured. Wishart, being a robust

young man, endured his misfortune with wonderful firmness; he was laid

upon one of the narrow framed beds of the beacon and despatched in a boat

to the tender, where the writer was when this accident happened, not a

little alarmed on missing the crane from the top of the building, and at

the same time seeing a boat rowing towards the vessel with great speed.

When the boat came alongside with poor Wishart, stretched upon a bed

covered with blankets, a moment of great anxiety followed, which was,

however, much relieved when, on stepping into the boat, he was accosted

by Wishart, though in a feeble voice, and with an aspect pale as death

from excessive bleeding. Directions having been immediately given to the

coxswain to apply to Mr. Kennedy at the workyard to procure the best

surgical aid, the boat was sent off without delay to Arbroath. The

writer then landed at the rock, when the crane was in a very short time

got into its place and again put in a working state.

[Monday, 3rd July]

The writer having come to Arbroath with the yacht, had an opportunity of

visiting Michael Wishart, the artificer who had met with so severe an

accident at the rock on the 30th ult., and had the pleasure to find him

in a state of recovery. From Dr. Stevenson’s account, under whose charge

he had been placed, hopes were entertained that amputation would not be

necessary, as his patient still kept free of fever or any appearance of

mortification; and Wishart expressed a hope that he might, at least, be

ultimately capable of keeping the light at the Bell Rock, as it was not

now likely that he would assist further in building the house.

[Saturday, 8th July]

It was remarked to-day, with no small demonstration of joy, that the

tide, being neap, did not, for the first time, overflow the building at

high-water. Flags were accordingly hoisted on the beacon-house, and

crane on the top of the building, which were repeated from the floating

light, Lighthouse yacht, tender, _Smeaton_, _Patriot_, and the two

praams. A salute of three guns was also fired from the yacht at

high-water, when, all the artificers being collected on the top of the

building, three cheers were given in testimony of this important

circumstance. A glass of rum was then served out to all hands on the

rock and on board of the respective ships.

[Sunday, 16th July]

Besides laying, boring, trenailing, wedging, and grouting thirty-two

stones, several other operations were proceeded with on the rock at

low-water, when some of the artificers were employed at the railways, and

at high-water at the beacon-house. The seamen having prepared a quantity

of tarpaulin, or cloth laid over with successive coats of hot tar, the

joiners had just completed the covering of the roof with it. This sort

of covering was lighter and more easily managed than sheet-lead in such a

situation. As a further defence against the weather the whole exterior

of this temporary residence was painted with three coats of white-lead

paint. Between the timber framing of the habitable part of the beacon

the interstices were to be stuffed with moss, as a light substance that

would resist dampness and check sifting winds; the whole interior was

then to be lined with green baize cloth, so that both without and within

the cabins were to have a very comfortable appearance.

Although the building artificers generally remained on the rock

throughout the day, and the millwrights, joiners, and smiths, while their

number was considerable, remained also during the night, yet the tender

had hitherto been considered as their night quarters. But the wind

having in the course of the day shifted to the N.W., and as the passage

to the tender, in the boats, was likely to be attended with difficulty,

the whole of the artificers, with Mr. Logan, the foreman, preferred

remaining all night on the beacon, which had of late become the solitary

abode of George-Forsyth, a jobbing upholsterer, who had been employed in

lining the beacon-house with cloth and in fitting up the bedding.

Forsyth was a tall, thin, and rather loose-made man, who had an utter

aversion at climbing upon the trap-ladders of the beacon, but especially

at the process of boating, and the motion of the ship, which he said ‘was

death itself.’ He therefore pertinaciously insisted with the

landing-master in being left upon the beacon, with a small black dog as

his only companion. The writer, however, felt some delicacy in leaving a

single individual upon the rock, who must have been so very helpless in

case of accident. This fabric had, from the beginning, been rather

intended by the writer to guard against accident from the loss or damage

of a boat, and as a place for making mortar, a smith’s shop, and a store

for tools during the working months, than as permanent quarters; nor was

it at all meant to be possessed until tile joiner-work was completely

finished, and his own cabin, and that for the foreman, in readiness, when

it was still to be left to the choice of the artificers to occupy the

tender or the beacon. He, however, considered Forsyth’s partiality and

confidence in the latter as rather a fortunate occurrence.

[Wednesday, 19th July]

The whole of the artificers, twenty-three in number, now removed of their

own accord from the tender, to lodge in the beacon, together with Peter

Fortune, a person singularly adapted for a residence of this kind, both

from the urbanity of his manners and the versatility of his talents.

Fortune, in his person, was of small stature, and rather corpulent.

Besides being a good Scots cook, he had acted both as groom and

house-servant; he had been a soldier, a sutler, a writer’s clerk, and an

apothecary, from which he possessed the art of writing and suggesting

recipes, and had hence, also, perhaps, acquired a turn for making

collections in natural history. But in his practice in surgery on the

Bell Rock, for which he received an annual fee of three guineas, he is

supposed to have been rather partial to the use of the lancet. In short,

Peter was the _factotum_ of the beacon-house, where he ostensibly acted

in the several capacities of cook, steward, surgeon, and barber, and kept

a statement of the rations or expenditure of the provisions with the

strictest integrity.

In the present important state of the building, when it had just attained

the height of sixteen feet, and the upper courses, and especially the

imperfect one, were in the wash of the heaviest seas, an express boat

arrived at the rock with a letter from Mr. Kennedy, of the workyard,

stating that in consequence of the intended expedition to Walcheren, an

embargo had been laid on shipping at all the ports of Great Britain: that

both the _Smeaton_ and _Patriot_ were detained at Arbroath, and that but

for the proper view which Mr. Ramsey, the port officer, had taken of his

orders, neither the express boat nor one which had been sent with

provisions and necessaries for the floating light would have been

permitted to leave the harbour. The writer set off without delay for

Arbroath, and on landing used every possible means with the official

people, but their orders were deemed so peremptory that even boats were

not permitted to sail from any port upon the coast. In the meantime, the

collector of the Customs at Montrose applied to the Board at Edinburgh,

but could, of himself, grant no relief to the Bell Rock shipping.

At this critical period Mr. Adam Duff, then Sheriff of Forfarshire, now

of the county of Edinburgh, and _ex officio_ one of the Commissioners of

the Northern Lighthouses, happened to be at Arbroath. Mr. Duff took an

immediate interest in representing the circumstances of the case to the

Board of Customs at Edinburgh. But such were the doubts entertained on

the subject that, on having previously received the appeal from the

collector at Montrose, the case had been submitted to the consideration

of the Lords of the Treasury, whose decision was now waited for.

In this state of things the writer felt particularly desirous to get the

thirteenth course finished, that the building might be in a more secure

state in the event of bad weather. An opportunity was therefore embraced

on the 25th, in sailing with provisions for the floating light, to carry

the necessary stones to the rock for this purpose, which were landed and

built on the 26th and 27th. But so closely was the watch kept up that a

Custom-house officer was always placed on board of the _Smeaton_ and

_Patriot_ while they were afloat, till the embargo was especially removed

from the lighthouse vessels. The artificers at the Bell Rock had been

reduced to fifteen, who were regularly supplied with provisions, along

with the crew of the floating light, mainly through the port officer’s

liberal interpretation of his orders.

[Tuesday, 1st Aug.]

There being a considerable swell and breach of sea upon the rock

yesterday, the stones could not be got landed till the day following,

when the wind shifted to the southward and the weather improved. But

to-day no less than seventy-eight blocks of stone were landed, of which

forty were built, which completed the fourteenth and part of the

fifteenth courses. The number of workmen now resident in the

beacon-house was augmented to twenty-four, including the landing-master’s

crew from the tender and the boat’s crew from the floating light, who

assisted at landing the stones. Those daily at work upon the rock at

this period amounted to forty-six. A cabin had been laid out for the

writer on the beacon, but his apartment had been the last which was

finished, and he had not yet taken possession of it; for though he

generally spent the greater part of the day, at this time, upon the rock,

yet he always slept on board of the tender.

[Friday, 11th Aug.]

The wind was at S. E. on the 11th, and there was so very heavy a swell of

sea upon the rock that no boat could approach it.

[Saturday, 12th Aug.]

The gale still continuing from the S.E., the sea broke with great

violence both upon the building and the beacon. The former being

twenty-three feet in height, the upper part of the crane erected on it

having been lifted from course to course as the building advanced, was

now about thirty-six feet above the rock. From observations made on the

rise of the sea by this crane, the artificers were enabled to estimate

its height to be about fifty feet above the rock, while the sprays fell

with a most alarming noise upon their cabins. At low-water, in the

evening, a signal was made from the beacon, at the earnest desire of some

of the artificers, for the boats to come to the rock; and although this

could not be effected without considerable hazard, it was, however,

accomplished, when twelve of their number, being much afraid, applied to

the foreman to be relieved, and went on board of the tender. But the

remaining fourteen continued on the rock, with Mr. Peter Logan, the

foreman builder. Although this rule of allowing an option to every man

either to remain on the rock or return to the tender was strictly adhered

to, yet, as it would have been extremely inconvenient to have the men

parcelled out in this manner, it became necessary to embrace the first

opportunity of sending those who had left the beacon to the workyard,

with as little appearance of intention as possible, lest it should hurt

their feelings, or prevent others from acting according to their wishes,

either in landing on the rock or remaining on the beacon.

[Tuesday, 15th Aug.]

The wind had fortunately shifted to the S.W. this morning, and though a

considerable breach was still upon the rock, yet the landing-master’s

crew were enabled to get one praam-boat, lightly loaded with five stones,

brought in safety to the western creek; these stones were immediately

laid by the artificers, who gladly embraced the return of good weather to

proceed with their operations. The writer had this day taken possession

of his cabin in the beacon-house. It was small, but commodious, and was

found particularly convenient in coarse and blowing weather, instead of

being obliged to make a passage to the tender in an open boat at all

times, both during the day and the night, which was often attended with

much difficulty and danger.

[Saturday, 19th Aug.]

For some days past the weather had been occasionally so thick and foggy

that no small difficulty was experienced in going even between the rock

and the tender, though quite at hand. But the floating light’s boat lost

her way so far in returning on board that the first land she made, after

rowing all night, was Fifeness, a distance of about fourteen miles. The

weather having cleared in the morning, the crew stood off again for the

floating light, and got on board in a half-famished and much exhausted

state, having been constantly rowing for about sixteen hours.

[Sunday, 20th Aug.]

The weather being very favourable to-day, fifty-three stones were landed,

and the builders were not a little gratified in having built the

twenty-second course, consisting of fifty-one stones, being the first

course which had been completed in one day. This, as a matter of course,

produced three hearty cheers. At twelve noon prayers were read for the

first time on the Bell Rock; those present, counting thirty, were crowded

into the upper apartment of the beacon, where the writer took a central

position, while two of the artificers, joining hands, supported the

Bible.

[Friday, 25th Aug.]

To-day the artificers laid forty-five stones, which completed the

twenty-fourth course, reckoning above the first entire one, and the

twenty-sixth above the rock. This finished the solid part of the

building, and terminated the height of the outward casing of granite,

which is thirty-one feet six inches above the rock or site of the

foundation-stone, and about seventeen feet above high-water of

spring-tides. Being a particular crisis in the progress of the

lighthouse, the landing and laying of the last stone for the season was

observed with the usual ceremonies.

From observations often made by the writer, in so far as such can be

ascertained, it appears that no wave in the open seas, in an unbroken

state, rises more than from seven to nine feet above the general surface

of the ocean. The Bell Rock Lighthouse may therefore now be considered

at from eight to ten feet above the height of the waves; and, although

the sprays and heavy seas have often been observed, in the present state

of the building, to rise to the height of fifty feet, and fall with a

tremendous noise on the beacon-house, yet such seas were not likely to

make any impression on a mass of solid masonry, containing about 1400

tons,

[Wednesday, 30th Aug.]

The whole of the artificers left the rock at mid-day, when the tender

made sail for Arbroath, which she reached about six p.m. The vessel

being decorated with colours, and having fired a salute of three guns on

approaching the harbour, the workyard artificers, with a multitude of

people, assembled at the harbour, when mutual cheering and

congratulations took place between those afloat and those on the quays.

The tender had now, with little exception, been six months on the station

at the Bell Rock, and during the last four months few of the squad of

builders had been ashore. In particular, Mr. Peter Logan, the foreman,

and Mr. Robert Selkirk, principal builder, had never once left the rock.

The artificers, having made good wages during their stay, like seamen

upon a return voyage, were extremely happy, and spent the evening with

much innocent mirth and jollity.

In reflecting upon the state of the matters at the Bell Rock during the

working months, when the writer was much with the artificers, nothing can

equal the happy manner in which these excellent workmen spent their time.

They always went from Arbroath to their arduous task cheering and they

generally returned in the same hearty state. While at the rock, between

the tides, they amused themselves in reading, fishing, music, playing

cards, draughts, etc., or in sporting with one another. In the workyard

at Arbroath the young men were almost, without exception, employed in the

evening at school, in writing and arithmetic, and not a few were learning

architectural drawing, for which they had every convenience and facility,

and were, in a very obliging manner, assisted in their studies by Mr.

David Logan, clerk of the works. It therefore affords the most pleasing

reflections to look back upon the pursuits of about sixty individuals who

for years conducted themselves, on all occasions, in a sober and rational

manner.

IV—OPERATIONS OF 1810

[Thursday, 10th May]

The wind had shifted to-day to W.N.W., when the writer, with considerable

difficulty, was enabled to land upon the rock for the first time this

season, at ten a.m. Upon examining the state of the building, and

apparatus in general, he had the satisfaction to find everything in good

order. The mortar in all the joints was perfectly entire. The building,

now thirty feet in height, was thickly coated with _fuci_ to the height

of about fifteen feet, calculating from the rock: on the eastern side,

indeed, the growth of seaweed was observable to the full height of thirty

feet, and even on the top or upper bed of the last-laid course,

especially towards the eastern side, it had germinated, so as to render

walking upon it somewhat difficult.

The beacon-house was in a perfectly sound state, and apparently just as

it had been left in the month of November. But the tides being neap, the

lower parts, particularly where the beams rested on the rock, could not

now be seen. The floor of the mortar gallery having been already laid

down by Mr. Watt and his men on a former visit, was merely soaked with

the sprays; but the joisting-beams which supported it had, in the course

of the winter, been covered with a fine downy conferva produced by the

range of the sea. They were also a good deal whitened with the mute of

the cormorant and other sea-fowls, which had roosted upon the beacon in

winter. Upon ascending to the apartments, it was found that the motion

of the sea had thrown open the door of the cook-house: this was only shut

with a single latch, that in case of shipwreck at the Bell Rock the

mariner might find ready access to the shelter of this forlorn

habitation, where a supply of provisions was kept; and being within two

miles and a half of the floating light, a signal could readily be

observed, when a boat might be sent to his relief as the weather

permitted. An arrangement for this purpose formed one of the

instructions on board of the floating light, but happily no instance

occurred for putting it in practice. The hearth or fireplace of the

cook-house was built of brick in as secure a manner as possible, to

prevent accident from fire; but some of the plaster-work had shaken

loose, from its damp state and the tremulous motion of the beacon in

stormy weather. The writer next ascended to the floor which was occupied

by the cabins of himself and his assistants, which were in tolerably good

order, having only a damp and musty smell. The barrack for the

artificers, over all, was next visited; it had now a very dreary and

deserted appearance when its former thronged state was recollected. In

some parts the water had come through the boarding, and had discoloured

the lining of green cloth, but it was, nevertheless, in a good habitable

condition. While the seamen were employed in landing a stock of

provisions, a few of the artificers set to work with great eagerness to

sweep and clean the several apartments. The exterior of the beacon was,

in the meantime, examined, and found in perfect order. The painting,

though it had a somewhat blanched appearance, adhered firmly both on the

sides and roof, and only two or three panes of glass were broken in the

cupola, which had either been blown out by the force of the wind, or

perhaps broken by sea-fowl.