CHAPTER VII

THE SECOND VOYAGE--WINTER AT STADACONA

On returning to his anchorage before Quebec, Cartier found that his

companions whom he had left there had not been idle. The ships, it will

be remembered, lay moored close to the shore at the mouth of the little

river Lairet, a branch of the St Charles. On the bank of the river,

during their leader's absence, the men had erected a solid

fortification or rampart. Heavy sticks of lumber had been set up on end

and joined firmly together, while at intervals cannon, taken from the

ships, had been placed in such a way as to command the approach in all

directions. The sequel showed that it was well, indeed, for the French

that they placed so little reliance on the friendship of the savages.

Donnacona was not long in putting in an appearance. Whatever may have

been his real feelings, the crafty old chief feigned a great delight at

the safe return of Cartier. At his solicitation Cartier paid a

ceremonial visit to the settlement of Stadacona, on October 13, ten

days after his return. The gentlemen of the expedition, together with

fifty sailors, all well armed and appointed, accompanied the leader.

The meeting between the Indians and their white visitors was similar to

those already described. Indian harangues and wild dancing and shouting

were the order of the day, while Cartier, as usual, distributed knives

and trinkets. The French were taken into the Indian lodges and shown

the stores of food laid up against the coming winter. Other objects,

too, of a new and peculiar interest were displayed: there were the

'scalp locks' of five men--'the skin of five men's heads,' says

Cartier,--which were spread out on a board like parchments. The Indians

explained that these had been taken from the heads of five of their

deadly enemies, the Toudamani, a fierce people living to the south,

with whom the natives of Stadacona were perpetually at war.

A gruesome story was also told of a great massacre of a war party of

Donnacona's people who had been on their way down to the Gaspe country.

The party, so the story ran, had encamped upon an island near the

Saguenay. They numbered in all two hundred people, women and children

being also among the warriors, and were gathered within the shelter of

a rude stockade. In the dead of night their enemies broke upon the

sleeping Indians in wild assault; they fired the stockade, and those

who did not perish in the flames fell beneath the tomahawk. Five only

escaped to bring the story to Stadacona. The truth of the story was

proved, long after the writing of Cartier's narrative, by the finding

of a great pile of human bones in a cave on an island near Bic, not far

from the mouth of the Saguenay. The place is called L'Isle au Massacre

to-day.

The French now settled down into their winter quarters. They seem for

some time to have mingled freely with the Indians of the Stadacona

settlement, especially during the month which yet remained before the

rigour of winter locked their ships in snow and ice. Cartier, being of

an observing and accurate turn of mind, has left in his narrative some

interesting notes upon the life and ideas of the savages. They had, he

said, no belief in a true God. Their deity, Cudragny, was supposed to

tell them the weather, and, if angry, to throw dust into their eyes.

They thought that, when they died, they would go to the stars, and

after that, little by little, sink with the stars to earth again, to

where the happy hunting grounds lie on the far horizon of the world. To

correct their ignorance, Cartier told them of the true God and of the

verities of the Christian faith. In the end the savages begged that he

would baptize them, and on at least one occasion a great flock of them

came to him, hoping to be received into the faith. But Cartier, as he

says, having nobody with him 'who could teach them our belief and

religion,' and doubting, also, the sincerity of their sudden

conversion, put them off with the promise that at his next coming he

would bring priests and holy oil and cause them to be baptized.

The Stadacona Indians seem to have lived on terms of something like

community of goods. Their stock of food--including great quantities of

pumpkins, peas, and corn--was more or less in common. But, beyond this

and their lodges, their earthly possessions were few. They dressed

somewhat scantily in skins, and even in the depth of winter were so

little protected from the cold as to excite the wonder of their

observers. Women whose husbands died never remarried, but went about

with their faces smeared thick with mingled grease and soot.

One peculiar custom of the natives especially attracted the attention

of their visitors, and for the oddity of the thing may best be recorded

in Cartier's manner. It is an early account of the use of tobacco.

'There groweth also,' he wrote, 'a certain kind of herb, whereof in

summer they make a great provision for all the year, making great

account of it, and only men use it, and first they cause it to be dried

in the sun, then wear it about their necks, wrapped in a little beast's

skin made like a little bag, with a hollow piece of wood or stone like

a pipe. Then when they please they make powder of it, and then put it

in one of the ends of the said cornet or pipe, and laying a coal of

fire upon it, at the other end suck so long that they fill their bodies

full of smoke till that it cometh out of their mouth and nostrils, even

as out of the funnel of a chimney. They say that it doth keep them warm

and in health: they never go without some of it about them. We

ourselves have tried the same smoke, and, having put it in our mouths,

it seemed almost as hot as pepper.'

In spite of the going and coming of the Indians, Cartier from first to

last was doubtful of their intentions. Almost every day in the autumn

and early winter some of them appeared with eels and fish, glad to

exchange them for little trinkets. But the two interpreters endeavoured

to make the Indians believe that the things given them by the French

were of no value, and Donnacona did his best to get the Indian children

out of the hands of the French. Indeed, the eldest of the children, an

Indian girl, escaped from the ships and rejoined her people, and it was

only with difficulty that Cartier succeeded in getting her back again.

Meanwhile a visiting chief, from the country farther inland, gave the

French captain to understand that Donnacona and his braves were waiting

only an opportunity to overwhelm the ships' company. Cartier kept on

his guard. He strengthened the fort with a great moat that ran all

round the stockade. The only entry was now by a lifting bridge; and

pointed stakes were driven in beside the upright palisade. Fifty men,

divided into watches, were kept on guard all night, and, at every

change of the watch, the Indians, across the river in their lodges of

the Stadacona settlement, could hear the loud sounds of the trumpets

break the clear silence of the winter night.

We have no record of the life of Cartier and his followers during the

winter of their isolation among the snows and the savages of Quebec. It

must, indeed, have been a season of dread. The northern cold was soon

upon them in all its rigour. The ships were frozen in at their moorings

from the middle of November till April 15. The ice lay two fathoms

thick in the river, and the driving snows and great drifts blotted out

under the frozen mantle of winter all sight of land and water. The

French could scarcely stir from their quarters. Their fear of Indian

treachery and their ignorance of the trackless country about them held

them imprisoned in their ships. A worse peril was soon added. The

scourge of scurvy was laid upon them--an awful disease, hideous in its

form and deadly in its effect. Originating in the Indian camp, it

spread to the ships. In December fifty of the Stadacona Indians died,

and by the middle of February, of the hundred and ten men that made up

Cartier's expedition, only three or four remained in health. Eight were

already dead, and their bodies, for want of burial, lay frozen stark

beneath the snowdrifts of the river, hidden from the prying eyes of the

savages. Fifty more lay at the point of death, and the others, crippled

and staggering with the onslaught of disease, moved to and fro at their

tasks, their fingers numbed with cold, their hearts frozen with despair.

The plague that had fallen upon them was such as none of them had ever

before seen. The legs of the sufferers swelled to huge, unsightly, and

livid masses of flesh. Their sinews shrivelled to blackened strings,

pimpled with purple clots of blood. The awful disease worked its way

upwards. The arms hung hideous and useless at the side, the mouth

rotted till the teeth fell from the putrid flesh. Chilled with the

cold, huddled in the narrow holds of the little ships fast frozen in

the endless desolation of the snow, the agonized sufferers breathed

their last, remote from aid, far from the love of women, and deprived

of the consolations of the Church. Let those who realize the full

horror of the picture think well upon what stout deeds the commonwealth

of Canada has been founded.

Without the courage and resource of their leader, whose iron

constitution kept him in full health, all would have been lost. Cartier

spared no efforts. The knowledge of his situation was concealed from

the Indians. None were allowed aboard the ships, and, as far as might

be, a great clatter of hammering was kept up whenever the Indians

appeared in sight, so that they might suppose that Cartier's men were

forced by the urgency of their tasks to remain on the ships. Nor was

spiritual aid neglected. An image of the Virgin Mary was placed against

a tree about a bow-shot from the fort, and to this all who could walk

betook themselves in procession on the Sunday when the sickness was at

its height. They moved in solemn order, singing as they went the

penitential psalms and the Litany, and imploring the intercession of

the Virgin. Thus passed the days until twenty-five of the French had

been laid beneath the snow. For the others there seemed only the

prospect of death from disease or of destruction at the hands of the

savages.

It happened one day that Cartier was walking up and down by himself

upon the ice when he saw a band of Indians coming over to him from

Stadacona. Among them was the interpreter Domagaya, whom Cartier had

known to be stricken by the illness only ten days before, but who now

appeared in abundant health. On being asked the manner of his cure, the

interpreter told Cartier that he had been healed by a beverage made

from the leaves and bark of a tree. Cartier, as we have seen, had kept

from the Indians the knowledge of his troubles, for he dared not

disclose the real weakness of the French. Now, feigning that only a

servant was ill, he asked for details of the remedy, and, when he did

so, the Indians sent their women to fetch branches of the tree in

question. The bark and leaves were to be boiled, and the drink thus

made was to be taken twice a day. The potion was duly administered, and

the cure that it effected was so rapid and so complete that the pious

Cartier declared it a real and evident miracle. 'If all the doctors of

Lorraine and Montpellier had been there with all the drugs of

Alexandria,' he wrote, 'they could not have done as much in a year as

the said tree did in six days.' An entire tree--probably a white

spruce--was used up in less than eight days. The scourge passed and the

sailors, now restored to health, eagerly awaited the coming of the

spring.

Meanwhile the cold lessened; the ice about the ships relaxed its hold,

and by the middle of April they once more floated free. But a new

anxiety had been added. About the time when the fortunes of Cartier's

company were at their lowest, Donnacona had left his camp with certain

of his followers, ostensibly to spend a fortnight in hunting deer in

the forest. For two months he did not return. When he came back, he was

accompanied not only by Taignoagny and his own braves, but by a great

number of savages, fierce and strong, whom the French had never before

seen. Cartier was assured that treachery was brewing, and he determined

to forestall it. He took care that his men should keep away from the

settlement of Stadacona, but he sent over his servant, Charles Guyot,

who had endeared himself to the Indians during the winter. Guyot

reported that the lodges were filled with strange faces, that Donnacona

had pretended to be sick and would not show himself, and that he

himself had been received with suspicion, Taignoagny having forbidden

him to enter into some of the houses.

Cartier's plan was soon made. The river was now open and all was ready

for departure. Rather than allow himself and his men to be overwhelmed

by an attack of the great concourse of warriors who surrounded the

settlement of Stadacona, he determined to take his leave in his own way

and at his own time, and to carry off with him the leaders of the

savages themselves. Following the custom of his age, he did not wish to

return without the visible signs of his achievements. Donnacona had

freely boasted to him of the wonders of the great country far up beyond

Hochelaga, of lands where gold and silver existed in abundance, where

the people dressed like the French in woollen clothes, and of even

greater wonders still,--of men with no stomachs, and of a race of

beings with only one leg. These things were of such import, Cartier

thought, that they merited narration to the king of France himself. If

Donnacona had actually seen them, it was fitting that he should

describe them in the august presence of Francis I.

The result was a plot which succeeded. The two ships, the Grande

Hermine and the Emerillon, lay at anchor ready to sail. Owing to the

diminished numbers of his company, Cartier had decided to abandon the

third ship. He announced a final ceremony to signalize the approaching

departure. On May 3, 1536, a tall cross, thirty-five feet high was

planted on the river bank. Beneath the cross-bar it carried the arms of

France, and on the upper part a scroll in ancient lettering that read,

'FRANCISCUS PRIMUS DEI GRATIA FRANCORUM REX REGNAT' Which means, freely

translated, 'Francis I, by the grace of God King of the French, is

sovereign.' Donnacona, Taignoagny, Domagaya and a few others, who had

been invited to come on board the ships, found themselves the prisoners

of the French. At first rage and consternation seized upon the savages,

deprived by this stratagem of their chief. They gathered in great

numbers on the bank, and their terrifying howls and war-cries resounded

throughout the night. But Donnacona, whether from simplicity or craft,

let himself be pacified with new presents and with the promise of a

speedy return in the year following. He showed himself on the deck of

the captain's ship, and his delighted followers gathered about in their

canoes and swore renewed friendship with the white men, whom they had,

in all likelihood, plotted to betray. Gifts were exchanged, and the

French bestowed a last shower of presents on the assembled Indians.

Finally, on May 6, the caravels dropped down the river, and the

homeward voyage began.

The voyage passed without incident. The ships were some time in

descending the St Lawrence. At Isle-aux-Coudres they waited for the

swollen tide of the river to abate. The Indians still flocked about

them in canoes, talking with Donnacona and his men, but powerless to

effect a rescue of the chief. Contrary winds held the vessels until,

at last, on May 21, fair winds set in from the west that carried them

in an easy run to the familiar coast of Gaspe, past Brion Island,

through the passage between Newfoundland and the Cape Breton shore, and

so outward into the open Atlantic.

'On July 6, 1536,' so ends Cartier's chronicle of this voyage, 'we

reached the harbour of St Malo, by the Grace of our Creator, whom we

pray, making an end of our navigation, to grant us His Grace, and

Paradise at the end. Amen.'

The Mariner of St. Malo : A chronicle of the voyages of Jacques Cartier · 第 7 / 9 章