FITTINGS AND APPARATUS.
§ I. BEE-HOUSES.
[Illustration]
WHERE is no contrivance for protecting hives from the
weather so complete as a bee-house; one which also admits of an easy
inspection of the hives ranged therein is especially convenient for
lady bee-keepers. We here present a front view of one designed for only
two hives.
The folding doors behind the bee-house have only to be opened, and the
hives are at once exposed to full view; then, by raising the upper hive
or cover, the glasses may be deliberately inspected without molestation
from the bees, and the progress made by the busy multitude may be
watched from day to day. Under the roof on each side are openings to
act as ventilators, to allow the heated air to escape. With the sun
shining on the house, and no escape of this kind, the temperature would
become that of an oven.
[Illustration]
Here our illustration shows the back view of the bee-house, the
interior being furnished with two of our improved cottage hives. Two
suspended weights balance the top hives which cover the glasses; the
cord for each runs on pulleys, so that the covers can be easily raised
and as easily shut down again when the inspection is finished. We may
here remark that it is not well to keep the glasses long exposed to
full light and view.
The front of the bee-house being closely boarded, a passage-way is
contrived for the bees, by which they have egress and ingress to the
hives without being able to gain access to the house. The hives must be
kept close to the front boarding of the house, to prevent the opening
of any crevices which the bees might mistake for the entrance to their
hives, and so find their way into the house. The front view of this
bee-house shows the ordinary contrivance for giving admission; the
sliding zinc entrances may also be advantageously fixed, as shown in
the woodcut of the bee-house to contain twelve hives. The bee-houses we
furnish have a lock and key.
Care must be taken to keep the bee-houses free from spiders and other
insects. In some districts ants are numerous and troublesome. The plan
we recommend for excluding them is to put some pitch round the four
supports of the bee-house, or, better still, strips of loose flannel or
other woollen material that is absorbent, which have previously been
soaked in lamp oil. We use sperm oil, as being the slowest-drying oil
we know of A piece of string will keep the flannel close to the wood,
and then neither ant nor other insect will pass up; so that by this
simple means the hives may, so to speak, be insulated and placed beyond
their reach. As the oil dries up it can easily be renewed. We have
found this an effectual remedy against these insidious enemies of bees.
[Illustration]
Where economy of room is a consideration we fit up bee-houses with
a double row of hives, one above the other. Our illustrations show
respectively the front and back of a house of this kind for twelve
hives, having an ornamental zinc gutter to prevent the wet from
dripping on to the alighting-board. When a number of hives are thus
together we colour the alighting-boards differently, so as to provide
the bees with a distinctive mark by which each may know its own home,
and not wander into its neighbour's house. Bees readily enough receive
a honey-laden labourer into a hive; but if the wanderer be poor and
empty it will be promptly repulsed, and may have to forfeit its life
for the mistake. Queens returning from their wedding trip are liable
to mistake their hive if there is not a noticeable difference between
the entrances. A queen entering a hive already possessed of a fruitful
sovereign would be certain to be killed, and the loss to her own hive
is a serious one. Hives are often made queenless from this cause, and
thereby reduced to utter ruin, the bee-master perhaps attributing his
failure to something altogether different.
[Illustration]
In lieu of houses an economical stand can be provided by driving two
rows of posts into the ground, one row about twelve inches behind the
other, and nailing upon them rails two inches wide and thick. The hives
may stand upon these, with eighteen inches between them for space for
performing operations. But there is less fear of jarring the other
hives when the stands are separate.
§ II. ZINC COVERS.
[Illustration]
The annexed illustration shows the ornamental zinc cover, and renders
but little description necessary. It represents one of our improved
cottage hives upon a stand. Three clumps of wood must be driven into
the ground, and the three iron rods supporting the covering made fast
to them with screws; there are screw holes in the feet of the iron rods
for the purpose. When thus secured but little fear need be entertained
of its being blown over by high winds.
In the roof two pulleys are fixed, so that, by attaching a cord, the
upper hive covering the bell-glass supers may be raised with facility
for the purpose of observing the progress made by the bees. Directions
as to the mode of fixing the pedestal will be found above (page 118).
The ornamental zinc cover will form a pleasing object in the
flower-garden when placed in a suitable position on the grass plot. It
is painted green; the iron rods are of such a length as to support the
roof at a convenient height from the ground.
[Illustration]
Our next figure is that of a simple and inexpensive covering for any
cottage straw hive when exposed in the garden. It fits close on to the
upper hive, coming sufficiently low to protect it from sun and rain,
without obscuring the whole hive.
These covers are painted green--a colour that is generally preferred.
§ III. WOOD COVERS.
A loose outer case completely enveloping the hive is found very useful.
Such covers are made in various forms, some to drop over the hive in
detached portions, some in a single piece, and others hinged; some,
as we saw in the last chapter (§§ xii., xiii., xiv.), constitute a
part of the hive itself. Ample room must be allowed for opening these,
both at the side and behind, remembering that from the latter position
all operations must be conducted. The cover and stand will require
painting, or else staining and varnishing, which looks perhaps better;
the hive itself, if not exposed to the weather, will not need this.
When removing or replacing the covers, care must be taken not to
enrage the bees. Covers formed with opening shutters will obviate the
necessity of frequent removal.
The accompanying figure shows a simple form of cover for dropping over
a hive. Its width is twenty-six inches, depth twenty-two, and height in
middle nineteen.
[Illustration]
Cottagers often use straight stiff thatching straw, sewed together;
this contrivance is termed a "hackle," and has a pretty appearance,
particularly if a number of hives are in a row. Care has however to be
exercised that mice do not make the cover a resting-place. Mortar is
often used for fastening round the hive at the bottom, but this is a
bad plan, as it forms a harbour for insects; the wooden hoop fits so
close as to leave little necessity for anything of the kind. The wooden
cover just described is more especially constructed for our frame hive
(page 142), but it may be used for any hive that it will fit over.
[Illustration]
Our next cut represents the Woodbury cover, which is formed in three
portions (the roof, the super-cover, and the stock-hive cover). It has
an upper and a lower door, or rather shutter, behind. The whole can
be placed on a pedestal as here shown. As this cover requires to be
lifted off in pieces, and is liable to be blown over by the wind, it is
not so convenient as those figured below, which open on hinges and are
self-supporting.
We next give two representations of one of our more elaborate covers,
showing it respectively from behind as opened and in front as closed.
The former exhibits the cover with one of our new frame hives (Chap.
III. § x.) within it, and two divisional supers upon the hive, the roof
being formed sufficiently high to accommodate these. The cover is thus
made to open near its vertical centre, and is held back by a chain. The
flap behind falls down on opening the top to allow of inspecting the
stock hive without drawing it out of the cover. In the front there is a
portico for protection to the entrance, and wood slides work in grooves
to narrow the opening in winter or other bad weather. The total height
of the cover and stand is forty-five inches, the width twenty-two,
and the depth twenty-six. The outside of the whole is grained and
varnished. In the figure following it will be observed that the hinges
are placed in the front; while underneath these the portico, slides,
and alighting-board are clearly shown, as well as the sloping roof--in
short, the general appearance of the whole structure as it actually
stands in the apiary.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
The next pair of views represent another very useful cover, but it has
the objection of being bulky and more costly. The open figure exhibits,
within the cover, our new glass frame hive and super (page 142). The
hinges are formed with movable pins to enable the cover to be totally
removed from the stand. An opening from the outside communicates with
the super, so that the bees can find exit without passing through the
stock hive. The flight-hole can be narrowed as in the previous instance.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
The annexed cut shows a new cover of simple and inexpensive
construction. In it any of our frame hives can be placed. The stock
hive here exhibited is the one referred to on page 141, as "The
Cottager's Improved Frame Hive." The advantage in having the stock hive
independent of the cover and stand, and on its own floor-board, is that
the hive is more easily stocked and more manageable in other respects
than those that have hive, stand, and cover all in one, as is the case
with the Philadelphia, Cheshire's, and Abbott's hives.
The drawing shows the outward construction so well that little further
explanation is needful.
§ IV. QUILTS.
Some American apiarians recommend the use of a quilt in place of a
crown board, as admitting of ventilation to the hive and thus allowing
the moisture to pass off. Quilts are made of some soft woollen material
or a piece of carpet. Care must be exercised that the maggots of other
insects do not find a home underneath, or a hotbed will by that means
be provided for bees' worst enemies.
§ V. BELL GLASSES.
In describing the stock hives of wood, straw, and glass, allusion
has frequently been made to the depriving hives technically called
"supers." The simplest form of these consists of the straw caps,
represented at pages 108-110, and next to these will come those to
which the above heading applies. Of the stricter bell-form, rounded at
the top, we have three sizes:--
[Illustration]
To contain 10lb., 10 inches high, 7 inches wide.
To contain 6lb., 7 inches high, 5½ inches wide.
To contain 3lb., 5 inches high, 4 inches wide.
These bell glasses are used in the hives before described. The largest
is for Nutt's hive; the middle-sized is for our improved cottage hive;
the smallest glass is so very small that it is not often used, and we
do not recommend it. Bees will generally fill a middle-sized glass
quite as soon as one so small as this.
[Illustration]
The next figures exhibit what are known as "Taylor's Glasses." They
were introduced by Mr. Taylor, and are recommended as preferable to
deep narrow glasses. The drawings will show that they are straight at
the sides, flat at the top inside, with a knob above to take hold
by, through which is a half-inch opening to admit a ventilating tube.
The larger, to contain perhaps twenty pounds, is six inches deep and
thirteen inches wide; the smaller, five inches deep and nine and a half
inches wide.
[Illustration]
The late Mr. J. H. Payne, of Bury St. Edmunds, author of the
"Bee-keeper's Guide," introduced another glass, called "Payne's Glass"
accordingly. It has a three-inch hole in the centre, the purpose of
which is to tempt bees to produce additional and larger stores of
honey. It is to be used as follows: When a bell glass (which must be
smaller in diameter than Payne's) is half or quite filled, raise it,
and place Payne's glass over the hole of the stock hive, with the
filled glass on it, over the three-inch hole. The bees will bring their
combs through, and thus Mr. Payne found that they would store more
honey than if the bell glass were removed and another empty one put in
its place.
[Illustration]
The "Flat-topped Glass" is a super to be placed on the hive in a
similar way to the bell glasses already alluded to. It has the
advantages of being straight at the sides, flat at top, and without a
knob; so that when filled it may be brought on to the breakfast table,
_inverted_, on a plate. The glass lid shown in the figure forms a
cover, and fits over outside so as not to interfere with the combs
within. There is a ventilating tube as above. Dimensions, six and
three-quarter inches in diameter, and five in height.
§ VI. BAR SUPERS.
[Illustration]
To these we have already made considerable allusion under the various
hives to which they are applied. They are often made of glass, but many
are of wood or even straw. It is desirable that the combs in supers
should be made thicker than those for breeding--the bees will in fact
deepen their honey cells to almost any extent--and therefore the bars
are placed somewhat, further apart than in stock hives, thus allowing
of one or two bars less. By _gradually_ widening the spaces between the
combs these can be brought up, Von Berlepsch tells us, to four inches
in thickness. With the shallower form of all the older supers the bars
are without frames. The cut exhibits the "Woodbury Super," which is
of glass thirteen inches square and six deep, with eight bars to the
ten of the hive. These can be either the Woodbury ribbed bars, or
flat ones with guide-comb attached. Lee's supers are similar, but they
contain seven bars with four Stewarton slides for giving admission from
one to the other when more than one super is used.
The next figure shows our "Frame Super," already sufficiently described
on page 141. It can be had as below, in glass with wooden framework, or
in straw with three windows, as shown with the hive on page 142.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
Next in order we give our "Divisional Super," to which a prize was
awarded at the Crystal Palace Bee Show in 1875. It is composed of seven
divisions or frames, which are kept together by lateral strips of wood.
Each division is intended to have one comb worked in it, rendering the
contents of the super divisible without cutting the combs. As shown in
the figure on page 175, this super is now made with whole-glass ends.
From the same figure it will be observed that these supers are adapted
for placing one above the other, passages being cut out of the top bar
of the lower of the pair. Slits are cut for the insertion of strips of
wax sheets.
Both in this super and the next it is desirable to provide against the
admission of cold through the numerous interstices by keeping a warm
woollen covering on the top and pasting paper over the divisions, which
can easily be cut through when the super is filled.
[Illustration]
Neighbours' "Sectional Super" is the last of our series. The attention
of apiarians has been so much turned of late years towards a cheap and
compact receptacle for honeycombs intended for deprivation, that we
have introduced this last invention, which is very much on the same
plan as the preceding, but the longitudinal divisions are again divided
across, forming boxes, as shown in the figure. Each section is about
two inches wide, seven long, and four and a half to five deep; it will
contain about two pounds of honey in the comb. This is a convenient
quantity for placing on the table or for purposes of presentation. The
fourteen sections occupy the same space as the seven divisions of the
preceding. Any number can however be used according to the size of the
hive: the Philadelphia hive, for instance, has space for eighteen.
Again, any single section can be removed when full, and another
substituted.
Each section has a saw-cut in the crown for the insertion of wax
strips. The queen-preventing zinc adapter can also be used. Observe
the caution given in the second paragraph of the description of the
divisional super, just above.
§ VII. EKES AND NADIRS.
We allude to these for the sake of explaining the terms, and as they
are adjuncts sometimes recommended for temporary enlargement. They are
further contrivances for the prevention of swarming, but they differ
from supers in being added below instead of above the stock hive.
Briefly, an eke is a half-hive so added, and a nadir an entire one.
An example of an eke is sometimes met with when a common skep is cut
horizontally in half, and the lower portion placed beneath an entire
skep hive. For an instance of a nadir we have only to refer to the
Stewarton hive. Ekes and nadirs give increased room to the bees, but
they of course do not answer the purpose of supers in providing honey
free from the admixture of brood.
§ VIII. IMPRESSED WAX SHEETS.
These artificial partition walls for combs are sheets of genuine
wax, about the substance of thin cardboard. They receive rhomboidal
impressions by being pressed between two metal plates, carefully and
mathematically prepared and cast so that the impressions are exactly
the same size as the base of the cells of a honeycomb. An inspection of
a piece of comb will show that the division of the opposite cells is
made by a thin partition-wall, common to both. The substance of this is
said to be only the one hundred and eightieth part of an inch, whilst
the artificial ones we are recommending are between the thirtieth and
fortieth part of an inch, or more than four times the thickness of
the handiwork of the bees themselves. It would, indeed, be vain to
attempt to furnish them with sheets of wax at all approaching their
own delicate fabric, and our sheets are quite as thin as they can be
to bear the handling requisite for fixing them in the hives. We find,
however, that the thickness is no disadvantage; the bees speedily
excavate and _pare the artificial sheet_ so as to suit their own
notions of the substance required; then, with admirable economy, they
use the surplus thus obtained for the construction of the cells. After
a sheet has been partly worked at by the bees, it is interesting to
hold it up to the light and observe the beautiful transparency of that
part of it, contrasted with the opaqueness of the part not yet laboured
upon.
This invention renders us independent of _guide-comb_, which is not
always obtainable. It comes to us from Germany, where it has attained
many years of success. At the International Exhibition of 1862 we
purchased the metal plates or castings, so as to manufacture the
impressed sheets with which we are now able to supply our customers;
and after the careful trials we have made we have great confidence in
recommending them. As will be seen below, however, we no longer advise
insertion of entire sheets.
In the season of 1863 we furnished a Woodbury glass super with the wax
sheets fixed to the bars in the way hereafter to be explained, and it
was truly astonishing to mark the rapidity with which these sheets of
wax were converted into comb. Receptacles were quickly made ready for
the storing of honey, and the new combs soon became beautifully white;
for, although the artificial wax has a yellow tinge, yet, after being
worked at and made thinner, it is as good in colour as ordinary combs.
If whole sheets are used--or, in the case of supers, half ones--perhaps
the simplest plan for fastening them is to fix a strip of wood with
brads to the under side of the top frame or bar; place the wax sheet
against this, then wedge another strip close to it, and thus hold
the wax sheet firmly in the centre of the frame, taking care also to
make the second strip of wood fast with brads. This has however the
objection that it slightly diminishes the space. The wax plates must
not extend to the bottom of the frame; a space of at least one inch
should be left for expansion, because the bees, in working the plate,
stretch it down lower. We also use a few pins firmly pressed into the
frames, and long enough to reach the edge of the plate; for by fixing
three or four pins on each side, both at the sides and at the bottom,
the plate may be held in an exactly central position within the frame.
We are now disposed to make a great modification in the above
directions, and, instead of using entire sheets of wax, we cut strips
from them of about an inch in width, and place these in the bars as
before, when they form an edged projection of half or three-quarters of
an inch. We have found an objection to the entire sheets in the fact
that they sometimes curl and break with the weight of the bees--so
eagerly does a new swarm apply itself to work upon them--and thus
become an obstruction instead of a help.
Strips of cardboard or wood shaving, dipped in hot wax or well
besmeared therewith, may be substituted for the wax strips themselves.
Where no slit is made for the insertion of either, the shaving running
down the lower edge of the bar may be simply rubbed with hot wax, and
the same purpose will be served.
§ IX. COMB FOUNDATIONS.
This is an American attempt to improve on our impressed wax sheets. In
the proffered assistance to the bees there is here some advance, for
not only are the lozenge-shaped plates at the base of each cell more
clearly stamped and defined, but the sides of the cells are slightly
begun--so deep are the impressions that the foundations of the walls
are actually laid.
Being quite a new invention, there has not been much time for fully
testing it, but we find from American bee-keepers that when used-in
large sheets there is the same difficulty as with our impressed
wax--the bees will twist them. As specimens of work these comb
foundations are certainly very commendable for appearance. The white
ones seem too white to be of pure wax, and any substitute offered
to bees has hitherto proved a failure. Mr. Baldridge, a frequent
correspondent of the _American Bee Journal_, speaks of the yellow
sheets as far preferable to the pure white, but some that are made
partly of paraffin he considers of little worth. Possibly the material
of which they are manufactured may be made to suit the delicate senses
of the bees. Until this is the case, hindrance rather than help in
comb-building will be the result of placing them in the frames and
sectional or other supers. The mode of fixing is the same as described
for impressed wax sheets.
§ X. CHESHIRE'S GUIDE-MAKER.
At the Exhibition at the Crystal Palace in 1875, Mr. Cheshire exhibited
and obtained a prize for a wax guide-maker, which is an ingenious
contrivance. It consists of a plaster of Paris cast, with impressions
taken from the metal plates before referred to (page 187). This cast is
two inches in width, about the same in thickness, and eleven or twelve
inches long. It rests in a shallow zinc or tin trough containing water
to keep the plaster damp by capillary attraction. The plaster cast
may first be soaked in water; then place against its side the top bar
of the frame, reversed so that the centre of the under side lies even
with the edge of the embossed cast. The wax (which must be genuine)
is melted in an ordinary glue-pot; then with a clean paintbrush it is
applied to the top of the plaster cast and exposed part of the bar. The
wax immediately hardens on the damp cast and does not adhere, whilst
the under side of the bar carries an embossed guide of sufficient depth
to be an unfailing means of direction to the swarm in the building of
straight combs.
When a large number of frames have to be prepared, this ingenious
apparatus is a convenience; but for the ordinary apiarian we should
advise procuring a few of the impressed wax sheets, cutting them in
strips, and fixing without the mess and trouble which Mr. Cheshire's
apparatus involves.
§ XI. BAR-FRAME HOLDER.
[Illustration]
It is often a great convenience to have a rest at hand to lodge frames
of comb on. The illustration shows one that we have contrived, and
which will accommodate twelve frames of almost any size. The two broad
rests on the top may be set closer or further apart by loosening the
screws which keep them firm. They are easily shifted and secured again
by screwing up.
This stand is light in weight, so that it can easily be carried about
as required. The frames of comb, with bees on them just as they are,
are temporarily placed on the holder when an inspection of the interior
of the hive is needful, and the combs can be returned to the hive in
the same order.
§ XII. CHESHIRE'S TRANSFERRING BOARD.
This is a contrivance which will be found specially serviceable in
transferring old stocks from one hive to another (Chap. V. § iii.). It
consists of an inclined rest for the combs, composed of laths, of wood
arranged like the teeth of a comb, so as to allow the honey to drain
into the zinc receiving-frame underneath; it also admits the ready
introduction of the tape or whatever is used for tying and fixing the
combs in the new frame. The operator should place the board upon a
table so that its front, or the upper edges of the inclined laths, face
him as he stands.
§ XIII. HONEY-CUTTERS.
[Illustration]
Honey-cutters are used for removing comb from boxes and glasses without
damaging it. The flat-bladed knife is for disconnecting the combs
from the sides; the hook-shaped one is to be applied to the top or
horizontal part of the box or glass. We have recently introduced a
knife with both these blades, one respectively at each end.
§ XIV. THE HONEY-EXTRACTOR.
The first notion of extracting honey from the combs by centrifugal
motion was the result of an accident. A son of Major von Hruschka, a
bee-keeper in Germany, tied a piece of honeycomb to a string, and in
play whirled it round the inside of a pail. Finding that the honey was
ejected and the cells of the comb left dry, the idea was suggested to
Herr von Hruschka of constructing a machine for the purpose, and this
he soon afterwards did. The first honey-extractor was a wooden vessel
with something like a broomstick working on a pivot in the centre; to
this axle, provision was made for attaching a framework to carry the
combs, and the centrifugal motion was obtained by winding coils of
string round the upper part of the revolving shaft, which was thus put
in motion by pulling the string sharply in the way a boy's humming-top
is made to spin round.
[Illustration]
This answered for a beginning; but with the opportunity of employing
machinery it was soon found that many improvements in the construction
might be made. For instance, it was apparent that the extractor should
be constructed of metal, because the wood absorbs so much honey that
it will soon become sour in warm weather, however carefully attended
to and cleansed. The honey-extractor shown here consists of a metal
reservoir with a treacle tap at its base to draw off the liquid honey.
In the middle of this reservoir is a cast-iron spindle, with arms or
projections to receive two metal wire cases, one on each side; in
these cases the combs are placed, whether in frames or not. Motion is
given by turning the handle, which with the aid of a cog-wheel causes
the spindle to revolve at great speed. The machine is mostly used for
frames of combs taken from stock hives whilst the honey-gathering is at
its height.
When the frame is removed from the hive whilst at full work, the bees
have to be shaken or brushed off with a feather, and those cells that
are sealed have to be uncapped by shaving the waxen lids off with
knives, of which there should be two, one to be kept immersed in a
vessel of hot water, whilst the other is used until it becomes cold,
and so alternately until the required work is accomplished. The knife
being warm very much aids in slicing through the wax as near the
top as possible, and prevents tearing the tender comb. This must be
done carefully so as to disturb the form of the cells as little as
possible, and not to touch the brood cells, from which honey cells are
easily distinguished. The frame is placed in one of the wire cases,
and a second may be treated in the same manner and dropped into the
extractor. A few turns of the handle eject the honey by centrifugal
force, and a little practice will inform the operator of the requisite
degree of speed, though some honey is more tenacious and takes a few
more turns than other. When on examination it is found that the honey
is gone out of one side, the cases will then have to be reversed, and
a few more turns will clear the cells on the other side. The frames
should now be returned to the hive for the bees to refill, and two
other frames of comb may take their places in the extractor, and so on
until all the combs in that hive suitable for extraction have been
operated upon according to the wish and judgment of the manipulator.
Prior to commencing this operation, a little smoke should be blown into
the hive and an examination made lest the queen should be too summarily
shaken off the comb; she must be quietly transferred to another if the
one she may be on is required to be placed in the extractor.
During the gathering season it is astonishing how quickly these
emptied cells will be refilled with honey, and not unfrequently the
queen finds in some of these unoccupied receptacles timely provision
for her otherwise contracted accommodation for depositing eggs; thus
breeding goes forward at an astonishing rate. Much is written about
the value of comb, and by this contrivance the labour of the bees in
building it is saved. There is no doubt but that this instrument is
of great service to the bee-keeper when judiciously applied,[23] and
since the introduction of the movable combs it has formed an important
adjunct thereto. For no invention has the apiarian cause to be more
deeply indebted than for the "Mel Extractor" of Germany, improved upon
as it has been both in America and in this country. Even if there
were less sale for extracted honey, the extractor would be found at
certain times of great value to every bee-keeper. In the award at the
Philadelphia Exhibition, special notice of commendation is recorded of
our honey-extractor.
[Footnote 23: This, machine is not of much service for extracting honey
from combs made in supers, the cells of which are mostly too soft to
bear operating upon.]
§ XV. CHESHIRE'S NUCLEUS HIVE.
The object of nucleus hives is explained below in the section on
"Queen Rearing" (Chap. V. § vii.), and they render services in the
process of artificial swarming, in maintaining a supply of young
mothers, or in Italianising an apiary. Mr. Cheshire's contrivance is
as follows; Certain frames in a regular hive are made to consist of
two half-frames, each complete, but joined together in the top bar by
a tongue in the one portion which fits firmly into an opening in the
other, thus forming an ordinary frame except for the division down the
middle. When a royal cell has been formed upon one of these compound
frames, such frame is taken out of the hive, and the twin portions are
then placed side by side in the nucleus, which measures only three and
three-quarter inches wide inside, nine inches deep, and seven and a
half from front to back. Its sides are constructed double in the same
way as those of the Cheshire frame hive (page 145). In the nucleus
hive it is necessary for the frames to be well covered up. Care must
be taken that the queen was not upon either of the nucleus frames, but
the other bees may be retained upon it. The older ones, however, will
be sure to return to the stock hive, and their place must be supplied
by shaking young ones off other frames on to a board in front of the
nucleus.
The royal cells may be obtained from any source, and artificially
transferred to the divided frames, after which the frames must be
placed in a stock hive for twenty-four hours for the bees to fix and
repair the cells. Or, if more convenient, three or four such frames may
be placed in the middle of a hive, and all stocked with eggs; the queen
may be removed for a few hours, at the end of which a larger or smaller
number of royal cells will be found to have been formed, and these in
the middle frames, which should be the ones desired. The transferring
process may still be needful, unless only one or two queens are wished
for. The royal cells should be placed inside when the two parts of the
frame are put together in the nucleus; there must however be only one
such cell on each of these, as the first queen that is hatched will be
certain to destroy the cells of the rest.
Further mention of the subject of nucleus hives will be found under
"Queen-Rearing." They should be constructed with narrow entrances so as
to lessen the facilities to robber bees.
§ XVI. QUEEN-CAGES.
These are small receptacles made of close wire or perforated zinc,
just large enough to contain the queen with a few of her acknowledged
subjects, and their use is on the occasion of her introduction to a
new hive. The new queen is by this means protected from the primal
hostility of the bees, but at the same time so much communication is
permitted as suffices to familiarise them gradually with her presence.
It is one of the characteristics of the bee nature that, however
distressed they may be at the loss of their old queen, and however
eagerly at work to produce a successor, they will not usually receive
such at once from an artificial source. They will, however, supply her
with food even when longing to transfix her with their stings.
We have two kinds of cage for this purpose. One of them is a wire
dome to be placed over the queen, when with a card carefully slipped
underneath she can be kept secure until the hive is prepared to receive
her favourably. It is nearly the same as Kleine's cage for protecting
royal cells, as described under "Queen-Rearing" (Chap. V. § vii.).
Another cage, devised and strongly recommended by "A Renfrewshire
Bee-keeper," is flat in form and neatly made of wire net; it is two
inches deep, one and a quarter wide, and three-eighths of an inch
thick; the top is of the same material, and projects one-eighth of an
inch all round as a flange to prevent slipping too far between the
combs. The door consists of stronger wires reaching across the bottom
of the cage; these are fixed at one end, and have two more wires
fastened to them at the other, which wires pass up at the corners and
are brought out at the top, where a push with the thumb will cause
the bottom to project open. Into this cage we consider there is more
difficulty in introducing the queen than into the other, as she has to
be taken hold of with the thumb and finger and passed within the narrow
opening; and though some of the cages are made with an entry-valve
at the top, the risk of injuring the queen remains, in our opinion,
greater than with the domed cage. The mode of procedure with each of
these will be found described under "Introducing New Queens" (Chap. V.
§ viii.).
§ XVII. QUEEN AND DRONE PREVENTER.
[Illustration]
Much disappointment is often felt, when removing a super that appears
well filled with honey, at finding that brood, and not honey, is in
many of the cells. In such a case the super should be replaced on the
hive until such time as the brood has hatched out. The comb will be
found to be discoloured, but there is no help for that. The fact of
there being even a few cells so occupied is a great deterioration. This
little contrivance, however, excludes both the queen and the drones,
the wires or strips of zinc being fixed too close together to admit of
their passage, though wide enough for the worker bees. It is adapted
for any hole that it will cover, but more especially for the openings
in the tops of straw hives communicating with the supers. Some of our
better-class hives are fitted with slides pierced in like manner, or
else with sheets of perforated zinc to ensure the same end.
The queen-preventer also serves a useful purpose in preventing pollen
being carried into the supers, as the edges of the wires or bars act as
scrapers upon the legs of the bees.
§ XVIII. BEE-TRAPS.
The object of these is to clear supers of bees previous to taking the
honey. There are several of them in use, but the principle of most is
the same. Clutton's bee-trap resembles one of the common round-holed
mouse-traps, but the bees have to pass out instead of in. Over the
little circular hole a pin is hung perpendicularly, and permitted by
wire staples to open far enough to allow the escape of the bee, after
which it falls back and denies readmission. The super having been
removed from the hive and inverted, the trap may be fitted into one of
the sides of a box, which, without its lid, is then inverted upon the
super, every opening being closed which could admit a bee from outside.
The super is then darkened, when the bees within will make for the
light through the trap. Mr. Cheshire and Mr. Aston have also invented
traps. Mr. Aston's has talc falls in place of pins.
§ XIX. DRONE-TRAPS.
If the increase of drones grows into an intolerable nuisance a trap
may be applied for their partial extermination. Aston's drone-trap
is an ingenious contrivance, though we recommend its use only under
limitations. It consists of a box to affix to the hive entrance,
with an opening from the inside, but no means of exit except through
perforations which admit only the workers; the bees are attracted into
it by the light, while their proper flight-hole is darkened by a ridge
over which they can just make their way into the hive. The drones are
thus left in the box to perish. The objections which we have to the
trap are--first, that the surmounting of the ridge must surely prove an
impediment to the work of the bees; secondly, that the ridge obstructs
ventilation; and thirdly, that should the queen stray into the trap,
she will, unless promptly discovered, soon share the same fate with
the drones. But if the trap be applied only for an hour or so at the
part of the day when the drones are leaving the hive in the greatest
numbers, it may then perhaps sufficiently effect its purpose and be
free from any serious drawback.
§ XX. BEE-FEEDERS.
It has long been acknowledged that the best mode of feeding bees is
through an opening at the top of the stock hive, as bees can thus
take the food without coming abroad. Another important feature is
the cleanliness with which liberal feeding can be accomplished; and
few operations require more care than this does. If liquid sweet is
left hanging about the hive it tempts robber bees, and when once the
bees of an apiary have had a taste, there is no knowing where their
depredations will stop. Even if no hives be completely destroyed,
weakness from loss of numbers will be the portion of most, if not of
all, the hives in the garden. The morals of our favourites are here
a good deal at fault, for the stronger hives, when their inordinate
passion is thus stirred up by the carelessness or want of knowledge of
the bee-keeper, attack and prey upon the weaker ones. "To be forewarned
is to be forearmed"--and "prevention is better than cure."
[Illustration]
The "Bottle Feeder," as shown in the annexed figure, consists of a
round or flat bottle placed in an inverted position over the feed-hole
of the stock hive, and resting in a circular block, below which is a
piece of perforated zinc. The following directions will show how it
is to be employed: Fill the bottle with liquid food; apply the net,
affixed by an india-rubber band, over the mouth; place the block over
the hole of the stock hive, and invert the bottle, the neck resting
within the hole in the block: the bees will put their tongues through
the perforations, and imbibe the food, thus causing the bottle to act
on the principle of a fountain. The bottle being glass, it is easy
to see when the food is consumed. The piece of perforated zinc is
for the purpose of preventing the bees from clinging to the net, or
escaping from the hive when the bottle is taken away for the purpose of
refilling.
Specially prepared pieces of vulcanite plate, pierced with holes in
such manner as to give complete regulation to the supply of food, are
much recommended by some apiarians. No net is then required, but as
the plate is to be a fixture on the crown-board, the bottle should
be inverted over a small shovel or some thin metal plate, which may
then be withdrawn, leaving it standing upon the vulcanite. Occasional
examination of the plate is however requisite, as the bees will
sometimes stop up the holes with their propolis. We strongly recommend
closely covering up this feeder with one of the middle-sized bell
glasses, should the regular hive cover not be sufficiently tight. When
bees are not kept in a bee-house this is particularly needful.
[Illustration]
The "Can Feeder" is our next form of an apparatus for this purpose.
Much has been said about stimulating feeding--that is, administering
food in such a way that there shall always be liquid sweets within the
reach of the bees, and that they shall continuously be able to imbibe
a little. In order to meet this requirement we have constructed a new
feeder, which consists of a tin bottle or can, six inches wide by six
high, with five small holes at the bottom, and closed by a sliding
valve and a screw top. The can is filled from the top, with the valve
closed, and when the screw top is made firm this valve is drawn back
by moving the pin in front. The can is placed over the feeding-hole
at the top of the stock hive, and the bees have access to it by small
holes. This can is on the principle of a fountain: the screw top
rendering it air-tight, the liquid only escapes as drawn down by the
probosces of the bees. A glass side is let in to show when the feeder
is empty. It need not be removed for refilling. The capacity of the
vessel is over a quart. Its difference in form from the above renders
it less liable to attack from robber bees.
[Illustration]
Our "Round Feeder" is made of zinc or earthenware, eight inches across
and three deep. The projection outside is a receptacle for pouring in
the food. The bees gain access to the feeder through a round hole,
which is placed either at the centre or nearer one side, whichever
may best suit the openings on the top of the stock hive; it is in
fact a tube which fits over the feed-hole in the crown-board, thus
allowing the bees to rise through it above the surface of the liquid.
A circular piece of glass, cut so as to fit into a groove, covers the
feeder all over and prevents the bees escaping, whilst it retains the
warmth within the hive, and affords opportunity for inspecting the
bees when feeding. The feeders were originally made only of zinc; but
some bee-keepers advised the use of earthenware, and a few have been
thus made to meet the wishes of those who give the preference to that
material.
When the bees are fed from above in this manner, the feeder is kept at
a warm temperature by the heat of the hive. In common hives cottagers
feed the bees by pushing under the hive thin slips of wood scooped
out, into which the food is poured. This plan of feeding can only be
had recourse to at night, and the pieces of wood must be removed in
the morning. By feeding at the top of the stock hive any interruption
of the bees is avoided. For further instructions on this head, see
the directions given for using the bottle feeder. Round feeders are
of course entirely safe from robber attacks, being protected by the
regular hive cover.
[Illustration]
A variation upon this is "The New Round Feeder," which obtained a prize
at the 1875 Crystal Palace Bee Show. It is made of wood, and holds
more than two pounds of liquid food, which must be poured into the
outer trough. The bees ascend through the centre as in the last case,
and passing over the innermost ridge, which is rounded, they reach the
inner trough, at which they imbibe the food without risk of drowning,
as the sides are too contracted. A piece of window glass covers the
top. The feeder is nearly ten inches in diameter.
§ XXI. FUMIGATORS.
[Illustration]
The "Box Fumigator" is a tin case, somewhat like a pepper-box upon a
foot. It is a simple adaptation of the fumigating apparatus described
by Mr. Nutt, and is used in the following manner: Have a straw hive
or other vessel ready that will match in circumference the hive
intended to be fumigated. If the empty hive have a conical top it will
not remain crown downwards without a rest; in this case it will be
convenient to invert it on a pail. Having ascertained that the hive
to be operated upon and the empty one in its reversed position nearly
match in size, take half a packet of the prepared fungus, fire it well,
and place it in the box or fumigator; place this in the centre of
the empty hive, then bring the occupied hive directly over, so as to
receive the fumes of smoke. To keep all close, put a wet cloth round
the junctures of the two hives. After a minute or two the bees may
be heard dropping heavily into the lower empty hive, where they lie
stupefied. After a little while the old hive may be gently tapped upon
to make them fall more quickly. On removing the upper hive the bees
from it will be found lying quiet at the bottom of the lower one, when
the intended operation--of uniting different colonies, searching for
the queen, or whatever else it may be--must be promptly performed.
[Illustration]
The "Tube Fumigator," which will be found to possess many advantages
over the above, is useful for several purposes. When a frame hive has
to be disturbed it is requisite to raise the lid and blow a little
smoke into the hive, so as to check the angry passions of the bees. If
it be desirable to stupefy the bees, ignited fungus must be placed in
the box and the flattened end applied to the entrance of the hive; the
smoke is then blown in, either with bellows or by applying the mouth of
the operator, taking care to close all openings through which it can
escape. The bees fall down stupefied, generally in about ten minutes;
but the effect varies according to the populousness of the hive and the
quantity of comb in it. The projected operation must now be performed
speedily, as activity will soon be regained. See preceding directions.
Another and quite a different means of subjugation has recently been
introduced in the form of _carbolic acid_. The odour of this drug is so
abominated by bees that the most refractory hive will be immediately
subdued by sprinkling a few drops of it on the tops of the frames. But
a feeling of humanity should suffice to prevent the frequent resort to
so harsh a measure. We have in other places (Chap. V. § ii. and VI.
§ viii.) made allusion to the applications of the same fluid to the
operation of transferring swarms and to the repelling of robber bees.
§ XXII. BEE DRESS OR PROTECTOR.
[Illustration]
All operations connected with the removal or the hiving of bees should
be conducted with calmness and circumspection. Bees, although the
busiest of creatures, entertain a great dislike to fussiness in their
masters, and become irritable at once if the apiarian allows them to
see that he is in a hurry. Hence there is great advantage in having
the face and hands covered whilst at work amongst the bees; for when
the operator knows he cannot possibly be stung, he can open his hives,
take out the combs, gather in his swarms, or take the honey, with all
the deliberation of a philosopher. Various kinds of bee dresses have
been contrived; one that we keep ready in stock is of a very simple
construction. It is made of strong _black net_, which is manufactured
for us specially for this purpose, and in shape is like an inverted
bag, large enough to allow of a gentleman's wideawake or a lady's hat
being worn underneath. The projection of the hat or cap causes the
dress to stand off from the face, and the meshes of the net, though
much too small for a bee to penetrate, are wide enough to allow of
clear vision for the operator. An elastic band secures the dress round
the waist; the sleeves also, made of durable black calico, are secured
at the wrists by a similar method. The hands of the bee-master may be
effectually protected with a pair of india-rubber gloves, which should
be put on before the dress is fastened round the wrists. This kind
of glove is regularly used by photographers, and allows of greater
ease in manipulation than any other description. Some persons also tie
strings round the ankles of their trousers, or use elastic bands for
the same purpose. Those who wear Wellington boots will be able to tuck
the trousers within them.
[Illustration]
The annexed figure represents a cheaper form of bee veil which we have
more recently introduced. It is provided with an elastic band which
fits round the hat, the lower portion being folded under the coat.
There is however no protection to the arms. It is made of the same
specially constructed material as the preceding--a strong black net,
with large meshes.
Thus a very simple and inexpensive means of protection will enable
even a novice in bee-keeping to make his observations and conduct his
experiments under a sense of perfect security. There are, of course,
those who scorn all such artificial modes of protection, and having
inured themselves to stinging take it as a thing of course, only to
be restrained within some manner of limit by means of the persistent
smoking of cigars or pipes (non-smokers such as Dzierzon use a sort of
mouth-fumigator). But it does not follow that none but these stoics
are to be permitted to manipulate with bees, otherwise the number of
beginners would be likely to be but few. And even he who is protected
need not be careless as to the feelings of his bees; his success and
their comfort will be promoted by his "handling them gently, and as if
he loved them." "Familiarity" between bees and their master breeds not
"contempt," but affection.[24] See further under "Stings" (Chap. VI. §
vi.).
[Footnote 24: Von Berlepsch denies that bees come really to know their
master so as to be able to distinguish him from any one else. We retain
the remark in our text as true to the extent that they do become used
to his manipulations.]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]