country who carried our baggage (this carrying is called Elfa), and we
went to sleep at another town called St. Michael. On arriving at this
town they did not give us lodging, saying that the town was privileged;
and on account of the rain we went to the circuit of the church, and
in the outer circuit, which serves as a churchyard, we put our mules,
because there was plenty of grass on account of the winter rains. In
this country it is not the custom to give victuals more than once a
day, and it is the custom to do that at night, in all the kingdoms
and lordships of Prester John. Having arrived thus, and not having
had quarters given us, so also they did not give us anything to eat,
according to their custom, and we were hungry. Our factor said to me:
Father let us eat. I replied, What shall we eat? He said to me, I
have brought two fowls cooked, let us eat them. Our clerk and I were
horrified at eating meat without bread, but nevertheless we accompanied
him. After this repast we many times ate meat without bread, and bread
without meat, and bread without salt, because it is not usual in the
country; and bread soaked in water, and pepper, so that we forgot
our first amazement. In the night they sent us food, and as we were
sleeping in the cloister of the church, for greater cleanliness we
went to the place where they give, or used to give, the communion.
Whilst we were there with light some pigeons began to stir; as soon as
we heard them we rushed to the doors, for the rest was closed, not one
escaped us, nor the young pigeons which we found in the holes: and we
filled a bag with them. Later we returned to halt in this town, and we
were received without their bringing forward their privileges, that we
might not kill the pigeons of the church, which was now again peopled
with them. The difference which there is between the people of this
country and that of the Barnagais, is in their clothes and dress. The
men wear girt round them some small skirts, some of stuff, some of
tanned leather, like large breeches, also plaited, like those of the
women of our country, and their extent is not more than two spans; when
they are walking it seems that they spread them out so that they cover
their nakedness, but if they stoop or sit down, or if there is wind,
it shows. The married women wear very little covering, and the single
women, who have neither husbands nor friends, have less shame. The
beads which other women wear round their necks these wear girt round
their bodies, and a large quantity of beads over their private parts,
and whoever can get a hawk’s bell, or a small bell, wears it there; and
some of these women (not married) wear a sheep’s skin at their neck,
which covers one side and not more, because they wear it loose, and
only one foot and one fore foot of the sheep is tied and suspended to
the neck. The[54] road which is taken in this country of the Prester
as soon as one arrives from the Red sea, or comes from Egypt to
Çuaquem, is at once to turn one’s back on the North, and travel to the
South until arriving at the gates of Badabaje; this is because a few
hours from here they go in one direction, others in another, asking
where the court may be, in a straight line, or to the East or to the
West, according to the country where the Prester is staying. At these
passages are separated the kingdoms of Amara and Xoa, and because we
went about in these countries for six years, sometimes to one part, at
others to another, going out of the road and then again returning to
it, according as it seemed to us that that was a better arrangement.
CAP. XXXVI.--_Which speaks of the town of Aquaxumo, and of the
gold which the Queen Saba took to Solomon for the temple, and of
a son that she had of Solomon._
Amongst these peaks where we were still going, in the parts to the
West are wonderful lands and very great lordships, among which is a
very good town named Aquaxumo, and it is two days’ journey from the
town of St. Michael, always between these peaks. We stayed in it for
eight months, by order of the Prester John. This town was the city,
chamber, and abode (as they say) of the Queen Saba, who took the
camels laden with gold to Solomon, when he was building the temple
of Jerusalem. There is in this town a very noble church, in which we
found a very great chronicle written in the language of the country,
and it stated in its commencement how it had been written first in
Hebrew, and afterwards put into Greek, and from Greek into Chaldee, and
from Chaldee into the Abyssinian tongue, in which it now is, and it
begins thus. How the Queen Sabaas hearing related the great and rich
works which Solomon had begun in Jerusalem, she determined to go and
see them; and she loaded certain camels with gold to give for these
works. And on arriving near the city, and being about to cross a lake,
which they passed by some bridges,[55] she dismounted and worshipped
the beams and said: “Please God my feet shall not touch the timber on
which the Saviour of the world has to hang.” And she made a circuit of
the lake, and went to see Solomon, and induced him to withdraw those
beams from there, and she came to the works, and offered her gifts
and said: “These works are not such as they told me in richness and
beauty, because their beauty and richness has no equal, so that they
are greater than what was related to me, so much so that the tongues
of men cannot tell their nobility and richness, and much I grieve for
the small gift which I brought; I will return to my countries and
lordships, and I will send whatever abounds for the works, of gold,
and blackwood to inlay.” Whilst she was at Jerusalem Solomon had
intercourse with her, and she became pregnant of a son, and remained
at Jerusalem until she brought him forth. After she was able to travel
she left her son, and returned to her country, and sent from it much
gold and blackwood to inlay the works. And her son grew up to the age
of seventeen years, and among the many other sons that Solomon had this
one was so proud that he outraged[56] the people of Israel, and all the
country of Judæa. And the people came to Solomon and said to him: “We
are not able to maintain so many Kings as you have got, for all your
sons are Kings, especially this one of Queen Saba; she is a greater
lady than you, send him to his mother, for we are not able to maintain
him.” Then Solomon sent him very honourably, giving him the officers
that are usual in a King’s household (as I will relate in its place),
and besides, he gave him, in order that he might rest on the road,
the country of Gazaā, which is in the land of Egypt, and he made his
journey to the country of his mother, where he was a very great ruler.
The chronicle says that he ruled from sea to sea, and that he had sixty
ships in the Indian sea. This book of chronicles is very large, and I
only took from it the beginnings.
CAP. XXXVII.--_How St. Philip declared a prophecy of Isaiah
to the eunuch of Queen Candace, through which she and all her
kingdom were converted, and of the edifices of the town of
Aquaxumo._
In this town of Aquaxumo was the principal residence of the Queen
Candace,[57] who was the beginning of the Christianity of this country.
Her birth (as they say) was half a league from here, in a very small
village, which now is entirely of blacksmiths. Her commencement of
Christianity was this. According to what they say in their books the
angel said to St. Philip: Rise and go towards the South, by the road
which goes from Jerusalem to Gaza in the desert. St. Philip went, and
met with a man who was an eunuch, and he was major-domo of the Queen
Candace, ruler of Ethiopia. In the country of Gaza, which Solomon had
given to his son, this man was the keeper of all the riches of the
Queen, and he had been to Jerusalem and was returning to his house, and
he was going on a chariot. St. Philip came up to him, and heard him
sing a prophecy of Isaiah, and asked him how he understood what he was
singing. He replied that he did not know, unless some other man taught
him. St. Philip mounted into the chariot, and went on explaining to him
that prophecy, and converted him, and baptized and instructed him in
the faith. Then the Spirit snatched away St. Philip, and he remained
informed. They say that here was fulfilled the prophecy which David
spoke: “Ethiopia shall arise, and stretch forth her hands to God.” Thus
they say they were the first Christians in the world. The eunuch at
once set out very gaily on the road to Ethiopia, to the house of his
mistress, and converted her and all her household, and baptized them
in consequence of what he related to them. And the Queen caused all
her kingdom of Buno to be baptized. This Buno is towards the east from
the town of Aquaxumo, in the kingdom of the Barnagais, and it is now
two lordships. In this town of Aquaxumo, where she became Christian,
she built a very noble church, the first there was in Ethiopia: it
is named St. Mary of Syon. They say that it is so named because its
altar stone came from Sion. In this country (as they say) they have
the custom always to name the churches by the altar stone, because on
it is written the name of the patron saint. This stone which they have
in this church, they say that the Apostles sent it from Mount Sion.
This church is very large; it has five naves of a good width and of a
great length, vaulted above, and all the vaults covered up, the ceiling
and sides all painted. Below, the floor of the church is well worked
with handsome cut stone. It has seven chapels, all with their backs
to the east, and their altars well placed. It has a choir after our
fashion, except that it is low, and they reach the vaulted roof with
their heads; and the choir is also over a vault, and they do not use
it. This church has a very large circuit, paved with flagstones like
gravestones. This consists of a very high wall, and it is not covered
over like those of the other churches, but it is left open. This church
has a large enclosure, and it is also surrounded by another larger
enclosure, like the wall of a large town or city. Within this enclosure
are handsome habitations of terraced buildings, and all spout out
their water by strong figures of lions and dogs of stone. Inside this
large enclosure there are two palaces, one on the right hand and the
other on the left, which belong to two rectors of the church; and the
other houses are of canons and friars. In the large enclosure, at the
gate nearest to the church, there is a large ruin, built in a square,
which in other times was a house, and it has at each angle large
stone pillars, squared and wrought. This house is called Ambazabete,
which means house of lions. They say that in this house were the
captive lions, and there are still some always, and there go before
the Prester John four captive lions. Before the gate of this great
enclosure there is a large court, and in it a large tree, which they
call Pharaoh’s fig tree,[58] and at each end of it there are some very
cool platforms of well worked masonry, merely laid down. Where they
reach near the foot of the fig tree, they are injured by the roots,
which raise them up. There are, on the top of these platforms, twelve
stone chairs, as well made with stone as though they were of wood, with
their seats and rests for the feet. They are not made out of a block of
stone, but each one with pieces of of stone. They say these belong to
the twelve judges who at this time serve in the court of Prester John.
Outside of this enclosure there is a large assemblage of very good
houses, such as there are not in the whole of Ethiopia, and very good
wells of water, of wrought masonry, and also in most of the houses the
before-mentioned ancient figures of lions and dogs and birds, all well
made in stone. At the back of this great church is a very handsome tank
of masonry, and upon this masonry are as many other chairs of stone,
such as those in the enclosure of the church. This town is situated
at the head of a beautiful plain, and almost between two hills, and
the rest of this plain is almost all full of these old buildings,
and among them many of these chairs, and high monumental stones with
inscriptions. Above this town there are many stones standing up, and
others on the ground, very large and beautiful, and wrought with
handsome designs, among which is one raised upon another, and worked
like an altar stone, except that it is of very great size, and it is
set in the other as if inchased. This raised stone is sixty-four ells
in length, and six wide; and the sides are three ells wide. It is very
straight and well worked, made with arcades below, as far as a head
made like a half moon; and the side which has this half moon is towards
the south. There appear in it five nails, which do not show more on
account of the rust; and they are like fives of dice in compass. And
that it may not be said, How could so high a stone be measured? I have
already said how it was all in arcades as far as the foot of the half
moon, and these are all of one size; and we measured those we could
reach to, and by those reckoned up the others, and we found sixty ells,
and we gave four to the half moon, although it would be more, and so
it made sixty-four ells. This very long stone, on its south side, and
where the nails in the half moon are, at the height of a man, has the
form of a portal carved in the stone itself, with a bolt and a lock, as
if it were shut up.[59] The stone on which it is set up has an ell in
thickness, and is well worked; it is placed on other large stones, and
surrounded by other smaller stones, and no man can tell how much of it
enters the other stone, or if it reaches to the ground. There are other
stones raised above the ground, and very well worked; some of them will
be quite forty ells long, and others thirty. There are more than thirty
of these stones, and they have no patterns on them; most of them have
large inscriptions, which the country people cannot read, neither could
we read them; according to their appearance, these characters must be
Hebrew. There are two of these stones, very large and beautiful, with
designs of large arcades, and ornaments of good size, which are lying
on the ground entire, and one of them is broken into three pieces, and
each of these exceeds eighty ells, and is ten ells in width. Close to
them are stones, in which these had to be, or had been let in, which
were bored and very well worked.
CAP. XXXVII.--_Of the buildings which are around Aquaxumo, and
how gold is found in it, and of the Church of this town._
Above this town, on a hill which overlooks much land, and far away, and
which is about a mile, that is the third of a league, from the town,
there are two houses under the ground, into which men do not enter
without a lamp. These houses are not vaulted, but of very good straight
masonry, both the walls and the upper part; the walls may be twelve
ells high; the stones inside and out are set in the wall so close one
to the other, that it all looks like one stone. One of these houses is
much divided into chambers and granaries; in the doorways are holes for
the bars and for the sockets of the doors. In one of these chambers
are two very large chests, each one four ells in length, and one and
a half broad, and as much in height and inside, and in the upper part
on the inner side they are hollowed at the edge, as though they had
lids of stone, as the chests also are of stone. (They say that these
were the treasure chests of Queen Saba.) The other house, which is
longer, has only got a portico and one room. From the entrance of one
house to that of the other will be a distance of a game of manqual,[60]
and above them is a field. There were in our company some Genoese and
Catalans, who had been prisoners of the Turks, and they affirmed and
swore that they had seen Troy, and the granary of Joseph in the Kingdom
of Egypt, and that their buildings were very large, but that these of
this town were and are, in a great manner, larger, and it seemed to us
that the Prester John had sent us here, in order that we should see
these edifices, and we had rejoiced at seeing them, as they are much
grander than what I write. In this town, and in its plains, which
are all sown in their season with all kinds of seed, when there come
thunderstorms, and they are over, there do not remain in the town women
or men, boys or children, who are old enough, who do not come out to
look for gold among the tillage, for they say the rains lay it bare,
and that they find a good deal. So they go by all the roads seeking the
water-courses, and raking with sticks. Seeing this, and hearing it said
how much gold they found, both in the town and in the tilled lands, I
determined on making a washing-board, such as I had seen in Portugal,
at Foz darouca,[61] and in Ponte de Mucela. When it was done, I began
to wash earth, and set up two boards, and did not find any gold. I do
not know whether I did not know how to wash, or whether I did not know
it when washed, or whether there was not any here: the report was, that
there was a great deal. As they say that the church of Aquaxumo is the
most ancient, so likewise they hold it to be the most honoured of all
Ethiopia: and the offices are well done in it. In this church there
are a hundred and fifty canons, and as many friars. It has two head
men, one is named _Nebrete_[62] of the canons, which means master
of instruction, and the other, Nebrete of the friars. These two heads
reside in the palaces which are within the great inclosure and circuit
of the church; and the Nebrete of the canons lodges at the right hand,
and he is the principal one, and the most honoured. He does justice for
the canons and for the laity of all this country: and the Nebrete of
the friars only hears and rules the friars. Both use kettledrums and
trumpets. They have very large revenues, and besides their revenues
they have every day a collation which they call _Maabar_[63] of
bread and wine of the country, when mass is finished. The friars have
this for themselves, and the canons also, and this Maabar is such,
that the friars seldom eat other food than that. They have this every
day except Friday of the Passion, because on that day no one eats or
drinks. The canons do not make their Maabar within the circuit of the
church, and are seldom there, except at fixed hours, neither is the
Nebrete in his palace, except at some chance time when he goes to hear
causes. This is because they are married, and live with their wives and
children in their houses, which are very good and which are outside.
Neither women nor laymen enter into the inclosure of this church, and
they do not enter to receive the communion. On account of their being
married, and that the women do not enter this circuit, they make their
Maabar outside, so that their wives and children may enjoy it.
CAP. XXXIX.--_How close to Aquaxumo there are two churches on
two peaks, where lie the bodies of two saints._
Not very far from this town are two hills, one at one end and the other
at the other, one to the east and the other to the west. At that which
is to the west there is a good bit of ascent, and at the top there
is quite half a league of a smiling plain which has some very good
villages, and delightful vineyards. On this hill, towards the town
of Aquaxumo, and in sight of it, there is a very handsome edifice,
it is a tower of very fine masonry: and much of this tower is cast
down, and with its masonry a church has been built of St. Michael, to
which come many people from the town of Aquaxumo to take the communion
on Saturdays and Sundays, on account of its devotion. On the hill
which is to the east, on its peak there is another church which is
named Abbalicanos, and this saint lies here, and they say that he was
confessor of Queen Candace. This church is like an annex of the great
church of Aquaxumo, and it is served by its canons. This house and
church of Abbalicanos is one of great devotion amongst them, there come
to it also many people from the town to hear the offices and take the
communion. This church also has a large village at the foot of the hill
which is its parish. Further on than this church, about a third of a
league, there is a peak which is slender from its base, and appears
to mount up to the sky: it is ascended by three hundred steps winding
round it. On the top of it there is a very elegant small church of much
devotion, which has no more than a small nave, and around it a circuit
of well-wrought masonry of the height of a man’s breast, and men are
afraid to look down over it. There is not more width from this wall
to the church than what three men can cover together holding hands.
This church has no cloister nor circuit, nor space where it could be
made. This church is named Abbapantalian, and his body lies here: it
possesses large revenues, and has fifty canons or debeteras, according
to their names, and they have a Nebrete like those of Aquaxumo. As
the church of Aquaxumo was the beginning of Christianity in Ethiopia,
so this one is surrounded by the sepulchres of Saints like Braga in
Portugal.
CAP. XL.--_Of the countries and lordships that are to the west
and to the north of Aquaxumo, where there is a monastery, named
Hallelujah, and of two other monasteries to the east._