CHAPTER XII.

Luring the Reader into a Stony Desert--A Duel on the

Carpet--Disappointment of the Special Correspondents--The People

Amuses Itself--How the Ballot Works--A Historic Sitting of the

Congress--Castelar's Great Oration--The Glory of Spain--About Negro

Manumission--Distrust of "Uncle Sam"--Return of Figueras--The

Permanent Committee--A Love-Feast of Politicians--The Writer Orders

Wings.

It may be urged with some show of truth that under the mirage of the

adventurous, I have lured the reader, anxious for the sensational, into

exhausting deviations in the stony desert of politics. I am guilty, and

I am sorry that I shall have to sin again--politics are so ultimately

interwoven with life in Spain. But it must not be imagined that these

accounts of what happened more than a decade ago are no more useful or

interesting than the stale report of the death of Queen Anne. In Spain

history has the trick of literally repeating itself. The country is

split into the same camps still, and occurrences similar to those of

which I treat are certain to be presented to the world anew. The drama

will be the same; the company only will be strange. And the information,

such as it is, which I give now, may furnish the key to much that would

otherwise be hard to unlock when the curtain rings up again.

Before one more error of political errantry, I must tell of a duel which

did not come off, for the sake of its moral. This was how the affair

arose. There was a discussion in the Assembly in reference to an alleged

insurrection in Porto Rico. Señor Padial asked, was it true that the

insurgents had raised cries of "Death to Spain," and demanded the

independence of Porto Rico, and the massacre of the local volunteers?

Several members got up to speak, and one of them, for what reason I

cannot fathom, characterized the question as "a farce unworthy of the

Conservative party." After a little while Señor Ardanay proceeded to

read some documents proving the reality of the disturbances. He was

interrupted by a torrent of voices, and Señor Padial shouted that the

Civil Guards and volunteers of the island had got up the whole row, and

that General Sanz was the author of the farce. General Sanz politely

retorted, "Your worship is wanting in truth." Several honourable

gentlemen sprang to their feet, and asked that Señor Padial's words

should be taken down in writing. And then the Assembly became a

bear-garden. Señor Olavarrieta claimed "la palabra," but the President

would not give him the privilege of speaking. He spoke all the same, and

said, "We shall not allow ourselves to be insulted by those señores,"

pointing to the Porto Rico deputies. The confusion became worse

confounded. The President rang his bell, called "Order," and threatened

to suspend the sitting. General Sanz then rose, looking wicked, and

asked that the words offensive to the Civil Guards and the volunteers

should be taken down in writing. As for what had been said offensive to

himself, he asked nothing; he knew what course to take. In England this

might have meant that the soldier would treat Señor Padial with silent

contempt; in Spain, with my preconceived notions of the pride of blue

blood and the fire of Castile, and all the rest, I took it that it could

only mean "pistols for two and coffee for one." The confession is sad;

but the truth at any price, the truth is so rare under this sky. Sundry

Special Correspondents who had come out to describe the revolution that

would not come off, were cudgelling their brains to discover how they

could assist at this passage of arms, in order that they might render a

full, true, and particular account to the public. The encounter would

have been more diverting than a bull-fight. Opinions were divided as to

whether it was better to go disguised as a hackney coachman or an

apothecary's assistant. I hurried, after dinner, to the Café Fornos, the

great rendezvous of Madrid politicians, to hear the latest details of

the pending affair of honour. It was to come off--no doubt of it; but

when and where, I could not hear. Next morning I read that the

difficulty had been arranged. It may be a satisfaction that the

barbarous "code of honour" has fallen out of fashion in Spain; but it

would be a still greater satisfaction if the practice of gentlemen

giving each other the lie in public were to fall out of fashion also.

The scene was disgraceful, and I am glad to be able to add that most of

the deputies were thoroughly ashamed of it; and in places of public

resort some went so far as to say that they would take their seats no

more in the Assembly. But they were in their places all the same on the

following afternoon. The Congress of Spain is no more mannerly on

occasions than legislatures elsewhere; but the occasions are rare.

My visit to the Café Fornos was not for nothing, after all. There was a

scene there too. A group of low fellows, overheated with wine, entered

about eight o'clock, while the immense hall on the ground-floor was

crowded with Radical deputies, officers, and quiet Madrileños who

frequent it nightly, and commenced bellowing for the Republic after

their hearts--that is to say, the Republic, Federal, Social, and

Uncompromising. The shout was taken up by another group outside, which

blocked up the entrance in the Calle de Alcalá. It was evidently a

premeditated manifestation. A Republican deputy who was present tried to

calm the disorderly crew, but to no purpose. They had come to shout,

and they would have their shout out. Señor Estévanez, the civil

governor, was dining in a room upstairs, but Señor Estévanez did not

leave his repast. When the thirsty and uncompromising federal social

citizens were hoarse they retired. They had effectually succeeded in

annoying the coffee-drinking tyrants who had the impudence to wear

broadcloth, and they withdrew to drain bumpers to their tremendous

exploit elsewhere.

These individuals were all in favour of the "social liquidation." This

cry of the drones had partisans in every citizen with an empty pocket

and a patch on his garments, for it means that the provident shall be

robbed to satisfy the improvident. But nathless these agitators, Spain,

I was told, was likely to be quiet for five or six weeks--that is, quiet

in the Spanish sense, with an insurrection in one stage of heat or

another, smouldering or flaming, in half a dozen provinces. The

elections would be tranquil, with "scrimmages" here and there; they

would not be elections without. The voting is by ballot. Theoretically

the system is faultless, but in practice jugglery is possible, and does

habitually occur. The alcalde has some influence in the matter, so has

the parish priest, so has the nearest large landed proprietor, so has

the local police functionary, and so has the mob. Ballot-boxes have been

broken open or have disappeared mysteriously. And thus it happens that a

Spanish constituency sends in a buff man as its representative by a

crushing majority at one election, and a blue man or a red man by a

crushing majority at the next. The constituency has not changed in the

interval, but the Minister in the Gobernacion, or, as we should call it,

the Home Office, has. There lies the secret.

I pass over small squabbles, which were of daily occurrence at the

Palace of the Congress, to come to the sitting of the 21st March, 1873,

which deserves to be handed down to history. On that day the Bill for

the Abolition of Slavery in Porto Rico was introduced by Castelar, in a

speech over which all Madrid went into raptures. The "inimitable

tribune," as his admirers call him, surpassed himself. He led off in the

usual oratorical style by pretending that he was not going to be

oratorical--"the bench on which he sat was one for actions, not

words"--and then, in the usual oratorical style, he contrived to say so

many words that the official paper next morning was full of them.

His first speech, made when he was but twenty-one, in the year 1854, was

on the very same subject, as he reminded his hearers. The Christian

religion, he said in the course of his remarks, was the religion of the

slave, and the Apocalypse the poem of the slave. Christ was the

descendant of enslaved kings, a bondsman of Roman conquerors. But I must

give up the attempt to follow the "inimitable tribune;" his lengthened

and dazzling chain of eloquence was too elaborate to be picked up link

by link. He was historical, passionate, and poetical by turns, but

always intensely rhetorical, keeping a close watchfulness for effect,

for Señor Castelar does not argue so much as declaim. He had the good

taste to defend the Radical Ministry from the charge of having acted in

favour of emancipation because the influence of the United States was

brought to bear upon it. Such a course, he asserted, would be unworthy

of the dignity and independence of the country.

I must tell you that the way to make Spain recoil from doing an act she

admits to be good and needful is to counsel her to do it--she will not

be advised by others. It would not be Spanish. If a Spaniard has a

notion of getting himself re-vaccinated, take care, if you are a friend

of his, how you talk to him on the subject. If you recommend him to have

the operation performed, he will change his mind at once. He will not be

bidden, he will risk small-pox in preference. It may happen that he will

die, but at all events he will have the satisfaction of having had his

own way.

Señor Castelar flattered the self-love of his countrymen by assuring

them that they were magnanimous of their own free will, and not because

foreigners had advised them to be magnanimous. He next delivered himself

of some tuneful periods about humanity, and then wandered off into a

spoken essay on the behaviour of the great European Powers on this

question of serfdom. He alluded to England as "the least democratic, but

most liberal of nations," and praised Russia for having set Spain the

example of unriveting the shackles of the slave. He apostrophized the

opponents of abolition, telling them that on their heads would fall the

responsibility if the law were not passed, but that he and his

colleagues would be answerable for the consequences if the law were

passed. Then the speaker waxed patriotic, and spoke the stereotyped

sentences on the glory and grandeur of Spain. Why should there be

rivalries between Creoles and Peninsulars--those who were born in the

colonies and those who were born in the mother-country? It was

deplorable. Were they not all of the same race? Was not the blood of the

Cid and of Pelayo careering in all their noble veins, and the spirit of

Spain living in all their generous souls? His peroration was

grandiloquent; he appealed to them to cease their bickerings, to close

up their ranks, and to labour unitedly for the maintenance of order,

authority, and the integrity of the territory, and they would earn the

benediction of history and of conscience, which was much more, for it

was the benediction of God.

At the close of his discourse, which was incontrovertibly a masterpiece,

Señor Castelar was surrounded by numerous colleagues, and warmly

congratulated. His speech established among other welcome things that

the orator-minister was no atheist. His remarks breathed the truest

Christianity. Next it was manifest that Spain, Republican as

Monarchical, would not, without a bitter struggle, cede one inch of

territory over which the national flag floated. Those who were

interested in the retention of slavery in the colonies were the holders

of slave property, and the deputies who had lived there and shaken the

pagoda-tree to some purpose, and who, now that they were back in Spain,

had a grateful recollection of what they owed to slavery. Those

gentlemen predicted that the immediate emancipation of the negro would

be the ruin of the colonies, and would inevitably lead to their loss by

the mother-country. The Ministry of King Amadeus originally brought in

the measure for the abolition of slavery in Porto Rico, preliminary to

the introduction of another to get rid of the system in Cuba. The chief

argument against the measure was that it was due to intriguing on the

part of American politicians, whose object was to smooth the way to the

ultimate incorporation of the Antilles with the United States. The

sincerity of American friendship is suspected by Spaniards. They know

that Uncle Sam has a longing eye on the islands in the Caribbean Sea;

and has already tried to negotiate Spain out of her American

possessions. Spain, recollecting this keenly, mistrusts him. And Señor

Castelar, whilst acquitting his predecessors in office of having acted

at the suggestion of the United States, let it be very plainly

understood that this Republic would fight that other and greater and

aggrandizing Republic to her last man and last dollar, before she would

consent to the abandonment of one square foot of soil. The vested rights

of slave-owners would not suffer completely, for the bill embraced a

proposition to pay them an indemnity equivalent to eighty per cent. of

the value of their live chattels. Forty per cent. of this was to be

guaranteed by the mother-country, and forty by the enfranchised colony,

so that twenty per cent. was the comparatively small pecuniary

sacrifice the inheritors of an odious system would have to make to

conscience.

Whether the manumission of the bondsman in Cuba, which was bound to

come, would hasten the independence of that island--or, what was more

likely, its annexation to the United States--I am not competent to

pronounce. Ultimately, it is the conviction of the wise and experienced

that the Queen of the Antilles must achieve her independence; but it

will be less on account of abolition than for reasons geographical,

climatic, and military. The ocean rolls between Spain and the sunny

cluster of isles, the climate is deadly to the Spanish soldier, and the

Spanish army cannot afford a perpetual depletion.

Nobody in Spain dares to defend slavery as moral, or protest against its

abolition on grounds higher than those of political expediency. The

adversaries of the bill affirmed that gradual abolition would be safer

than immediate abolition, and that the matter could well afford to wait.

The newly-proclaimed Republic had interests of far greater present

importance to attend to, they said; but the philo-negrists retorted that

it was a shame not to free the negro under the Republic, which was based

on the broad principle of freedom to all, without distinction of colour,

and that a beneficent and noble act could not be done too soon. If the

Monarchy had lasted, there could be no denying it, this project of

abolition would have been enacted without fail.

Late in the night, after Castelar had delivered his oration, Señor

Figueras returned from his trip to the provinces. He was met at the

railway-station by groups of friends, personal and political, and

escorted to his residence, where he was serenaded by the band of a

regiment of foot artillery. The night was dark and rainy, which was an

ingratitude to the patriotism of the musicians. If it did not savour of

ill-nature one might be permitted to remark that speeches, however

splendid as specimens of composition from a bench, which the speaker

admits should be one for acts, not words, and midnight clangours of a

brass band under the dripping window-sills of a tired Minister, were

hardly what was needed most and first in the country. But Spain is not

like any place else.

On the 22nd the Assembly sat until seven, when there was a break-up of

two hours for refreshments; after which was held a night sitting (a most

unusual thing), prolonged until half-past one the next morning. This was

the last of that Assembly. The powers of the Cortes, save and excepting

such as were purely legislative, were delegated to a Permanent Committee

of twenty, which was to aid Ministers in their task, until the meeting

of the Constituent Cortes. In the interval between the two sittings this

committee was chosen by the nominating sections of the Radical and

Republican parties respectively, all shades of opinion being represented

upon it. The President of the Assembly, the four Vice-Presidents, and

the four Secretaries, held _ex-officio_ seats on the board. An analysis

of the names of the twenty-nine shows that there were fourteen Radicals,

eight Federals, four Conciliadores (who may be counted with the

Federals), two Conservatives, and an Alfonsist.

This moribund sitting was unique in its unanimity and enthusiasm. The

Bill for the Abolition of Slavery in Porto Rico was passed without a

dissentient voice. There was kissing and clasping of hands, and friendly

hugging all round. Señor Padial and General Sanz, who were anxious to

fight a duel to the death a few days before, met in the Salon de

Conferencias and made up their quarrel. They cemented their

reconciliation with an embrace, and one sentimental Deputy who was

looking on, cried, "May this be an auspicious omen of the union between

Spain and the Antilles!" Señor Figueras promised that the Executive

Power would faithfully see to the maintenance of order during the

elections. Another señor proposed that the act they had accomplished on

the date of the 23rd should be recorded on a marble tablet, to be

erected in the chamber. The proposition was received with cheers; and

truly the act which knocked the chains off the limbs of 35,000 slaves

merited record. The Marquis of Sardoal, who occupied the presidential

throne, prayed God to enlighten the minds of the Government and the

Permanent Committee, and then declared the Assembly dissolved. There

were loud shouts for the "Federal Republic," and just one weak voice for

the "Spanish Republic."

The clouds had blown over. Now was the hour for congratulations. Many

persons who were preparing to send away their families resolved to let

them remain. I had no further occupation in Madrid. A Deputy who had

thirty years' experience of life in the capital told me that this was

the last place in Spain where there was likely to be a disturbance for

the present; but he added, "If you think of going elsewhere, be sure to

give me an address where I can telegraph to you, for something may

always turn up." I had waited nigh five weeks in the expectation of that

something turning up, and at length I began to think I had better seek

fresh fields and take a look at real Spain.

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