Neaulico at half past eight o'clock. This stream is nearly dry at this
season, and only affords water in certain hollow places which abound in
fish. Saw Isaaco's Negroes take several with their hands, and with wisps
of grass used as a net to frighten the fish into a narrow space. One of
the fish was a new genus.
Saw in the bed of the river some Negroes roasting a great quantity of
flesh on temporary wooden stages erected for the purpose, as represented
in the following sketch.
[Illustration:]
This half roasting and smoaking makes the meat keep much longer than it
would do without it. The flesh was part of a _Da qui_ which they
found on the road; a lion had killed it during the night, and eat one leg
of it.
At four o'clock P.M. departed from the Neaulico. At five, passed the
ruins of Mangelli, where I formerly slept, and at six o'clock halted for
the night at Manjalli Tabba Cotta, the ruins of a village so called. The
wood during this day's march is in general small, and the road is much
interrupted with dry bamboos. Plenty of water at the resting place. After
dark took out the telescope in order to observe an immersion of Jupiter's
first satellite--
H. M. S.
The satellite immerged by watch 14 10 35
Rate + from London 0 5 48
Too slow by eclipse at Kayee 0 0 5
--------
Mean time by watch 14 16 28
Time by Nautical Almanack 14 16 51
Equation 0 3 58
--------
Mean time at Greenwich 14 12 53
14 12 53
--------
Watch too fast 0 3 35
Longitude by three sets of sights taken next morning in order to find the
apparent time at the _place_ 13° 9' 45" W.
It is difficult to account for such a difference in the rate of going of
the watch in the course of one month; but the excessive heat and the
motion of riding may perhaps have contributed to it; for I think my
observation of the immersion was correct.
May 17th.--Left Manjalli Tabba Cotta, and after a fatiguing march of
twelve miles, reached _Bray_, a watering place. Endeavoured to take
the meridional altitude of the sun, by the back observation with
Troughton's pocket sextant; and after carefully examining his rise and
fall, with the intervals betwixt each observation, I was convinced that
it can be done with great accuracy, requiring only a steady hand and
proper attention. This was a great relief to me; I had been plagued
watching the passage of the fixed stars, and often fell asleep when they
were in the meridian.
We left Bray at three o'clock, P.M. and carried with us as much water as
we possibly could, intending to rest at Nillindingcorro till the moon
rose; but there being no water, our guide continued our march to the
river Nerico, which we reached at eight o'clock, all the people and asses
very much fatigued. Face of the country during this day an open and level
plain with bushes and Cibi trees, making the prospect rich, though not
grand. Saw plenty of lions' excrement in the wood: they deposit it only
in certain places, and like the cats, claw up the ground in order to
cover it.
May 18th.--People employed all the morning in transporting the baggage
and asses across the river; and as both men and asses were very much
fatigued, I thought it best to halt on the east side of the river till
the afternoon, as it would afford the soldiers an opportunity of washing
their clothes.
o ' "
Observed Mer. Alt. Sun 168 35 0
Diameter 0 32 0
---------
1/2 169 7 0
---------
84 33 30
Correct for refraction and parallax 4
---------
84 33 26
---------
Zenith Distance 5 26 34
Declination 19 31 25
---------
Latitude 14 4 51
The breadth of the stream of the river Nerico is about sixty feet, the
depth of water four feet, its velocity is two miles an hour. The heat of
the stream at two o'clock 94° Fahrenheit.
Chapter II.
Arrival at Jallacotta--Maheena--Tambico--Bady; hostile conduct of the
Faranba, or Chief, and its consequences--Reach Jeningalla
--Iron-furnaces.--Mansafara--Attacked by wolves--Enter the Tenda
Wilderness--Ruins and Plain of Doofroo--Attacked by a swarm of
bees--Astronomical Observations--Arrival at Sibikillin--Shea
trees--Badoo; presents made to the King--Tambacunda--Ba Deema
River--Tabba Gee--Mambari--Julifunda; unfriendly conduct of its Chief;
and presents sent to him and the King--Visit from the latter--Reach
Eercella--Baniserile--Celebrate His Majesty's birthday--Mode of fluxing
iron--Madina--Falema river--Satadoo--Sickness and death of the
Carpenter--Arrival at Shrondo; commencement of the rainy season; and
alarming sickness amongst the soldiers--Gold mines; process for
procuring the gold--Dindikoo; gold pits--Cultivation--Arrival at Fankia.
CHAPTER II.
May 18th.--We left the Nerico about half past three o'clock, and arrived
at Jallacotta, the first town of Tenda, at sun-set. From this place to
Simbuni in Bondou, is two days travel.
May 19th.--Halted at Jallacotta in order to purchase corn and recruit the
asses. Bought plenty of onions, which made our rice eat much better.
Town's people fishing in the woods, where the pools being nearly dry, the
fish are easily taken.
May 20.--Left Jallacotta, and about two miles to the east, passed the
village of Maheena, close to which are the ruins of another village of
the same name. It would appear from the number of ruins, that the
population of Tenda is much diminished. We reached Tendico or Tambico,
about eight o'clock: we could not procure a bullock, the inhabitants
having very few cattle. This village belongs to Jallacotta; and the
Farbana of Jallacotta is subject to the King of Woolli. About half a mile
from Tambico is a pretty large town called _Bady_, the chief of
which takes the title of Faranba, and is in a manner independent. He
exacts very high duties from the coffles, to the extent of ten bars of
gunpowder for each ass-load.
We sent a messenger from Tambico to inform the Faranba of our arrival,
and he sent his son in the evening with twenty-six men armed with
musquets, and a great crowd of people, to receive what we had to give
him. Sent him ten bars of amber by our guide; but as he refused to take
it, went myself with five bars of coral, which he likewise refused.
Indeed I could easily perceive from the number of armed men, and the
haughty manner in which they conducted themselves, that there was little
prospect of settling matters in an amicable manner. I therefore tore a
leaf from my pocket-book, and had written a note to Lieutenant Martyn to
have the soldiers in readiness; when Mr. Anderson, hearing such a hubbub
in the village, came to see what was the matter. I explained my doubts to
him, and desired that the soldiers might have on their pouches and
bayonets, and be ready for action at a moment's notice. I desired Isaaco
to inform him that we had as yet found no difficulty in our journey; we
had readily obtained the permission of the kings of Kataba and Woolli to
pass through their kingdoms, and that if he would not allow us to pass,
we had then only to return to Jallacotta, and endeavour to find another
road; and with this (after a good many angry words had passed between the
Faranba's people and our guide) the palaver ended.
Matters were in this state, Faranba's son had gone over to Bady with the
amber and coral, and we were preparing to return to Jallacotta early next
morning, when about half past six o'clock some of Faranba's people seized
our guide's horse, as the boy was watering it at the well, and carried it
away. Isaaco went over to Bady to enquire the reason of this conduct; but
instead of satisfying him on this point, they seized him, took his double
barrelled gun and sword from him, tied him to a tree and flogged him; and
having put his boy in irons, sent some people back to Tambico for another
horse belonging to an old man that was travelling with us to Dentila. I
now told two of Isaaco's Negroes, that if they would go with me into the
village, and point out the Faranba's people (it being quite dark) who had
come to take the old man's horse, I would make the soldiers seize them,
and retain them as hostages for Isaaco. They went and told this to the
two chief men in the village, but they would not permit it. They were
able, they said, to defend their own rights, and would not allow the
horse to be taken: so after an immense hubbub and wrangling, the business
at last came to blows, and the Faranba's people were fairly kicked out of
the village.
I was now a little puzzled how to act; Isaaco's wife and child sat crying
with us under the tree, his Negroes were very much dejected, and seemed
to consider the matter as quite hopeless. We could have gone in the night
and burnt the town. By this we should have killed a great many innocent
people, and most probably should not have recovered our guide. I
therefore thought it most advisable (having consulted with Mr. Anderson
and Lieutenant Martyn) to wait till morning; and then, if they persisted
in detaining our guide, to attack them in open day; a measure which would
be more decisive, and more likely to be attended with success than any
night skirmishes. We accordingly placed double sentries during the night,
and made every man sleep with his loaded musquet at hand. We likewise
sent two people back to Jallacotta, to inform the Dooty of the treatment
we had received from Faranba, though at one of the towns belonging to the
King of Woolli.
May 21st.--Early in the morning our guide was liberated, and sent back to
us; and about ten o'clock a number of Faranba's people came and told me
that Faranba did not wish to quarrel with me, but could not think of
allowing a coffle to pass without paying the customary tribute; but as I
had refused to do that the evening before, if I would now carry over to
Bady such articles as I meant to give him, every thing would be amicably
settled. I told them that, after the treatment my guide had experienced,
they could not expect that I would go to Bady alone; that if I went I
would take twenty or thirty of my people with me. This seemed not so
agreeable; and it was at last determined that the horse, &c. should be
brought half way between the two villages, and delivered on receipt of
the goods. I accordingly paid at different times goods to the amount of
one hundred and six bars, being not quite one-third of what a coffle of
Negroes would have paid. Faranba's people still kept our guide's gun and
sword; alleging, that they were sent away in the night to Bisra, a town
in the neighbourhood, but would be sent after us as soon as the person
returned who had gone in quest of them. We accordingly departed from
Tambico about three o'clock, and halted for the night at Jeningalla near
Bufra, or Kabatenda, where I formerly slept; my former landlord brought
me a large calabash of milk.
o ' "
Mer. Alt. Tambico 166 56 0
Diam. 0 32 0
--------
1/2 167 28 0
--------
83 44 0
--------
Zenith Distance 6 16 0
Decl. 20 9 0
--------
Latitude 13 53 0
========
May 22d.--Halted at Jeningalla to purchase corn for our asses. Went and
saw some iron-furnaces; they are smaller at the top than those of
Manding, thus:
[Illustration]
The distance being very great between this place and the next water, we
resolved to travel it by moonlight, and accordingly we left Jeningalla.
May 23d, at two o'clock in the morning, and at eight o'clock reached
Nealo Koba. At the same place where I formerly crossed, the river is not
flowing, but stands in pools, some of which are deep and swarming with
fish. Oysters large, but of a greenish colour; did not eat any of them.
About two o'clock resumed our journey, and at sun-set reached a small
Foula village; all very much fatigued, having travelled twenty-eight
miles.
May 24th.--Halted at Mansafara, which is only four miles east of the
Foula village. This consists of three towns, quite contiguous to each
other; and near them is a large pool of water. From this town to the
village of Nittakorra on the north bank of the Gambia is only eight miles
due south. Bought corn for the asses in crossing the Samakara woods, and
a bullock for the people. Much lightning to the south-east, and thunder.
Got all the bundles covered with grass, &c. During the night the wolves
killed one of our best asses within twenty yards of the place where Mr.
Anderson and I slept.
May 25th.--Left Mansafara, and entered the Tenda or Samakara wilderness.
About four miles to the east passed the ruins of _Koba_, where I
formerly slept. The town was destroyed by the Bondou people about two
years ago, and the Bentang tree burnt down. At ten passed a stream like
the Neaulico, running to the Gambia; and shortly after came in sight of
the first range of hills, running from S. S. W. to N. N. E., we came near
them; and at half past eleven halted at Sooteetabba, a watering place
within a mile of the hills.
[Footnote: Called Koba Tenda in Park's Travels, p. 353.]
' "
Obser. Merid. Alt. 164 45 0
---------
82 22 30
0 16 0
---------
82 38 30
Diff. par. and ref. 0 0 7
---------
82 38 23
' "
Zenith Distance 7 21 37
Decl. 20 65 10
Latitude 13 33 33
Departing from Sooteetabba as soon as the heat of the day was over, we
crossed the first range of hills. Mr. Anderson and I ascended the top of
one of the hills, which from the amazing fine prospect all round, I have
named Panorama Hill; it has a sugar-loaf looking top, with a number of
wolf-holes in it. The route across the hill, though very difficult for
the asses, was extremely beautiful. In the evening we descended into a
romantic valley, where we found plenty of water, being one of the remote
branches of Nealo Koba. There was plenty of fish in the pools; but they
were too deep to catch them with the hands. Close to the stream are the
ruins of the village of Doofroo, destroyed by the Dentila people some
time ago. This is considered as an excellent place for shooting
elephants; we saw the fresh dung and feet marks of many of them near the
stream. Watched for an eclipse of Jupiter's first satellite, but the
planet became clouded.
May 26th.--At day-break ascended from the plain of Doofroo, and travelled
over a rugged country, till ten o'clock, when we met a coffle (at a
watering place called _Sootinimma_) bound for Gambia to redeem a
person who had been caught for a debt, and was to be sold for a slave, if
not ransomed in a few months. There being no water here, we did not halt;
but continued our march, two of the soldiers being unable to keep up. The
main body of the coffle still kept going on, and at half past twelve
reached Bee Creek; from whence we sent back an ass and two Negroes to
bring up the two fatigued soldiers.
We had no sooner unloaded the asses at the Creek, than some of Isaaco's
people, being in search of honey, unfortunately disturbed a large swarm
of bees near where the coffle had halted. The bees came out in immense
numbers, and attacked men and beasts at the same time. Luckily most of
the asses were loose, and gallopped up the valley; but the horses and
people were very much stung, and obliged to scamper in all directions.
The fire which had been kindled for cooking being deserted, spread, and
set fire to the bamboos; and our baggage had like to have been burnt. In
fact, for half an hour the bees seemed to have completely put an end to
our journey.
In the evening, when the bees became less troublesome, and we could
venture to collect our cattle, we found that many of them were very much
stung and swelled about the head. Three asses were missing; one died in
the evening, and one next morning, and we were forced to leave one at
Sibikillin; in all six: besides which, our guide lost his horse, and many
of the people were very much stung about the face and hands.
During the night got the telescope ready in order to set the watch to
Greenwich time by observing an emersion of the second satellite of
Jupiter. Mr. Anderson took the time, and I was seated at the telescope
half an hour before it happened, in order to be sure of observing it. The
satellite emerged by
' "
_Watch_ 11 49 16
Greenwich 11 46 30
---------
Watch too fast 0 2 46
---------
Emersion by Nautical Almanack 11 49 51
Equation 0 3 21
---------
Mean time at Greenwich 11 46 30
Observations of the sun taken with artificial horizon and the watch the
same evening, to determine the apparent time.
H. M. S. | '
5 57 15 | 30 24
0 58 0 | 30 14
0 58 42 | 29 43
H. M. S. | '
6 4 15 | 27 11
0 5 0 | 26 51
0 5 35 | 26 36
H. M. S. | '
6 6 54 | 25 56
0 7 34 | 25 38
0 8 13 | 25 20
Observed the meridian altitude of the sun within a mile of Bee Creek the
same day;
' "
Altitude 164 21 0
----------
82 10 30
0 16 0
----------
82 26 30
----------
Z.D. 7 33 23
D. 21 6 8
----------
Latitude 13 32 45
Longitude 43 min. 56 sec. of time, or 10 59' West.
May 27th.--Early in the morning we set forwards, and after travelling
four miles arrived at Sibikillin. Here the water which supplies the town,
is collected in a deep rocky hollow. There are plenty of fish in the
pool, but the natives will not eat any of them, nor allow them to be
taken, imagining that the water would immediately dry up. Cautioned the
soldiers against catching any of them. At night one of the town's-people
found our guide's horse in the woods, and brought it to the town. Gave
him fifteen bars of amber, and a Barraloolo, &c.
[Footnote: _Shea_, or vegetable Butter-tree. See Park's Travels, p.
203, 352.]
May 28th.--At day-break set forwards, and about three miles east of
Sibikillin descended into a valley, where I saw the first _Shea_
trees, some of them loaded with fruit, but not ripe. About eleven o'clock
arrived at Badoo, a small town consisting of about three hundred huts. A
little north of this is another town, called likewise Badoo; but they
distinguish them by the names of Sansanding and Sansanba. The Slatee or
governor of each of these towns exacts customs to a great amount from all
coffles, and if refused, they join together and plunder them. Judging it
best to settle matters amicably, if possible, I gave him during the day
the following articles; viz.
To Amar, the king's younger brother, Bars.
Amber No. 2. 10
Coral 5
To the King of Sansanding,
Amber 10
Coral 5
Scarlet 5
Barraloolo 5
Two mirrors 2
Scarlet 5
Amber 6
To the King of Sansanba,
Amber 10
Coral 5
Scarlet 5
Bars.
Barraloolo 5
To different people, Grandees 20
----
97
----
[Footnote: Here is a mistake of Mr. Park. The total is really 98.]
Bought a bullock for 12
And a sheep for 5
' "
Mer. Alt. 163 17 0
------------
81 38 30
0 16 0
------------
81 54 30
------------
Z.D. 8 5 30
D. 21 37 30
------------
Latitude 13 32 0
May 29th.--In the forenoon had an opportunity of sending two letters home
to England, viâ Gambia.
In the evening left Badoo, and went to Tambacunda, about four miles east
of Badoo. The river Gambia is only four miles distant, South of Badoo.
Mr. Anderson and Mr. Scott went up a hill near the town, and had a fine
view of it. The course is from the South-East, till it reaches the hills
near Badoo; it then turns towards the South. It is called _Ba
Deema_, or the river which is _always a river_, i.e. it never
dries. The distance between Badoo and Laby in Foota Jalla is five days
travel.
Purchased two asses.
May 30th.--Left Tambacunda, and entered the woods. Travelled very
expeditiously till eleven o'clock, when we reached a watering place
called Fatifing, where we found some green dirty water, so bad that
nothing but necessity would have made us drink it. Halted here till half
past two o'clock, when we again set forward and reached _Tabba Gee_
just at dark: found no water. During the afternoon the country to the
South hilly and beautiful. A little before we reached the halting place
some drops of rain fell.
May 31st.--Left Tabba Gee at day break, and a few miles to the east
passed a round lump of quartz, called by the natives _Ta Kooro_, or
the traveller's stone; all travellers lift up this stone and turn it
round. The stone is worn quite smooth, and the iron rock on which it
rests is worn hollow by this constant motion. Halted during the heat of
the day at Mambari, where there is a small village built this season; the
former one having been destroyed by war many years ago. Passed in the
course of the forenoon two streams running towards Gambia.
' "
Obser. Mer. Alt. - - 162 43 0
_________
1/2 81 21 30
0 16 0
_________
81 37 30
_________
Z.D. - 8 23 30
D. - 21 46 10
_________
Latitude - - - 13 22 40
_________
_Muianta_, a hill resembling a castle, bearing by compass S. by E.
is distant sixteen miles; _Sambankalla_ bearing S., the hills of
Foota Jalla bearing by compass SW. by W. SW. and SW. by S.--The town of
Laby is immediately beyond those hills, which are three days travel from
this place. The river Gambia comes down the opening SSW. between Muianta
and the hills of Foota Jalla. The latter have nearly the appearance of
Madeira when seen from the sea, but the hills are not so sharp-pointed as
those of Madeira.
In the afternoon again set forwards, and four miles to the East passed
the dry bed of a torrent course towards Gambia; road rocky; plenty of
white quartz in detached lumps and small pieces. Travelled till quite
dark, when we were forced to halt for the night at a place where there
was no water; and of course we all slept supperless.
June 1st.--At day break set forwards, and at ten o'clock arrived at
Julifunda, a considerable town founded by people who formerly received
goods in advance from the European traders on the Gambia, Rio Nunez, and
Kajaaga; the road to Bambara from these places frequently leading through
this place when the other routes were stopped by war. These people, who
trade on credit, are called _Juli_ in distinction from the Slatee
who trades with his own capital. Julifunda was formerly inhabited
entirely by Soninkees; but the King of Foota Jalla made war on them, and
obliged them, as a condition of peace, to embrace the Mahomedan religion.
The town contains, I suppose, about two thousand people, including the
suburbs.
In the evening sent our guide to the chief man, who is termed _Mansa
Kussan_, and is reckoned one of the most avaricious chiefs in the
whole of the road. Sent him some amber and scarlet as a present, and told
him that I intended to remain one day at Julifunda in order to purchase
rice.
June 2d.--Bought some corn and two ass loads of rice; presented Mansa
Kussan with some amber, coral, and scarlet, with which he appeared to be
perfectly satisfied, and sent a bullock in return; he even prayed for my
safety, and told me that he would do his utmost to get us forwards.
Bought an ass for twenty bars of amber. At four o'clock put on the loads
and departed for Baniserile.
The whole of the asses were gone, and only Mr. Anderson and myself
remained, having sent our guide to inform Mansa Kussan of our departure.
Our guide returned, and told us that Mansa Kussan had said that, unless I
gave him ten bars of all the different sorts of merchandise, he would not
allow us to pass farther up the country; and if we attempted to pass
without his consent, he would do his utmost to plunder us in the woods.
Recalled the people and asses, and endeavoured to settle matters in a
friendly manner. Suspecting that he would not have used such language
unless he had received assurances from some other towns that they would
join him in attacking us, sent him some more scarlet and amber by our
guide; being unwilling to go singly into the town, having received
information that it was the intention of the king to detain me, with a
view to make me pay handsomely for my release.
Mansa Kussan seized the money which I paid for the ass in the seller's
hands, and what evinced his hostile intentions still more, he seized the
ass till such time as the palaver should be settled. I shall here give a
list of the different articles of trade paid by me at different times, to
Mansa Kussan at Julifunda.
Sent at first,
Bars.
Amber 16
Scarlet 10
Barraloolo 10
Sent afterwards,
Amber 4
Barraloolo 5
Amber No. 1. 10
To Kussan's brothers
Amber 2
Scarlet 2
Took with me when I went to pay my respects to him,
Amber 23
Beads 5
Looking-glass 1
[table ends]
Sent after the asses turned back,
Amber 23
Coral 10
Beads 10
Swords 15
Sent on the morning of the 3d of June,
A pair of pistols 20
Scarlet 10
Barraloolo 15
---
Bars 200
---
[Footnote 1: Here too there is some mistake in Park's MS. the true total
being 191.]
o ' "
Observed Mer. Alt. 162 11 0
81 5 30
0 16 0
81 21 30
Z.D. 8 38 30
D. 22 11 29
Latitude 13 33 0
June 3d--Having sent him the last present mentioned in the above list, I
concluded, and was assured by the king's brothers, that no further
demands would be made; but was much surprised when our guide and the
king's brothers told me on their return that I must send ten bars of
gunpowder and ten of flints. Here I determined to put an end to the
business; and told the king's brothers that I considered myself as having
paid the king very well for passing through his territory; that I would
neither give him a single charge of gunpowder nor a flint; and if he
refused to allow me to pass, I would go without his permission; and if
his people attempted to obstruct us we would do our utmost to defend
ourselves. The king's brothers and some of the old Bushreens insisted on
my sending the gunpowder or some other goods of equal value; but I
assured them that Europeans would much rather run the risque of being
plundered in a hostile manner than have their goods (which were brought
to purchase provisions) extorted from them by such exorbitant demands.
After going backwards and forwards to the king, his Majesty was pleased
to say he was satisfied; and what surprised me, said that he was coming
to pay us a friendly visit in the afternoon. He accordingly paid us a
visit, attended by a parcel of parasites and singing women. Offered me a
few Cola nuts, which I desired our guide to take and eat; he likewise
told me that I should have a guide to Baniserile.
June 4th.--Early in the morning departed, and having passed the village
Eercella, remarkable for a grove of large _Sitta_ trees, about one
o'clock arrived at Baniserile, and halted under a tree near the wells.
This being His Majesty's birth day, pitched one of the tents, purchased a
bullock and a calf for the soldiers: in the afternoon had them drawn up,
and fired; and made it as much a day of festivity as our circumstances
would permit; and though we were under the necessity of drinking His
Majesty's health in water from our canteens, yet few of his subjects
wished more earnestly for the continuance of his life and the prosperity
of his reign.
Baniserile is a Mahometan town; the chief man, _Fodi_ Braheima, is
one of the most friendly men I have met with. I gave him a copy of the
New Testament in Arabic, with which he seemed very much pleased.
June 5th.--Employed in purchasing rice, having received information that
there was a great scarcity of that article to the eastwards. Bought the
rice both here and at Julifunda with small amber No. 5; and I found that
though a scarcity existed almost to famine, I could purchase a pound of
clean rice for one bead of amber, value 2d. sterling.
Purchased three ass loads, and on the 6th purchased two ass loads more,
making in all 750lb. of rice. This day one of our guide's people went
away to purchase slaves at Laby in Foota Jalla, distant three long days
travel. The people here assured me it was only three days travel from
Badoo to Laby. Had a squall with thunder and rain during the night. As
the loads were put into the tent, they were not wetted, but one of our
carpenters, (old James,) who had been sick of the dysentery ever since we
crossed the Nerico, and was recovering, became greatly worse. Observed
mer. alt. of 0 161 8' latitude 13 35'.
Dentila is famous for its iron; the flux used for smelting the iron is
the ashes of the bark of the _Kino_ tree. These ashes are as white
as flour: they are not used in dying blue, and must therefore have
something peculiar in them. I tasted them: they did not appear to me to
have so much alkali as the mimosa ashes, but had an austere taste. The
people told me, if I eat them, I would certainly die.
June 7th.--Departed early in the morning, and as the carpenter before
mentioned was very weak, appointed two soldiers to stay by him, and
assist him in mounting, and to drive his ass. Four miles east of
Baniserile came to the brow of a hill, from which we had an extensive
prospect eastwards. A square looking hill, supposed to be the hill near
Dindikoo, in Konkodoo, bore by compass due _East_.
[Illustration: Untitled cut]
Shortly after crossed the bed of a stream running towards the
_Faleme_ river, called _Samakoo_ on account of the vast herds
of elephants which wash themselves in it during the rains.
[Illustration: Map]
Saw their foot marks very frequently, and fresh dung. Heard a lion roar
not far from us. This day the asses travelled very ill on account of
their having eaten fresh grass, as we supposed.
Obliged to load the horses, and at noon halted at a large _pool_ of
water in the bed of the Samakoo, called _Jananga_.
From the time of our crossing the Samakoo to our halting place, we
travelled without any road; our guide being apprehensive that as there
existed a war a little to the south, and the people were in arms; they
might attempt to cut off some of the fatigued asses in our rear.
In the afternoon resumed our march, and travelled without any road over a
wild and rocky country. Obliged to leave two of the asses on the road,
and load all the horses. We did not reach the watering place till quite
dark, and were obliged to fire muskets frequently to prevent us from
straying from each other.
June 8th.--Early in the morning resumed our march, and about two miles to
the east came to the brow of a hill, from whence we could distinguish the
course of the Faleme river by the range of dark green trees which grew on
its borders. The carpenter unable to sit upright, and frequently threw
himself from the ass, wishing to be left to die. Made two of the soldiers
carry him by force and hold him on the ass. At noon reached Madina, and
halted by the side of the Faleme river; which at this season is a little
discoloured by the rain, but not sensibly swelled. The general course of
this river as pointed out by the natives is from the south-east quarter;
the distance to its source is six ordinary days travel. The bed of the
river here is rocky, except at the crossing place, where it is a mixture
of sand and gravel. The river abounds in fish, some of them very large:
we saw several plunge and leap that appeared to be so large as to weigh
60 or 70 lb. The velocity of the stream is about four knots per hour.
In the afternoon got all the bundles carried over, and up the opposite
bank, which very much fatigued the soldiers. When every thing was carried
over, I found the carpenter still more weakly and apparently dying. I
therefore thought it best to leave him at Madina till the morning
following. Went to the village, and hired a hut for him for six bars of
amber, and gave the Dooty four bars, desiring him to make some of his
people assist the soldier (whom I left to take care of the sick person)
in burying him, if he died during the night. In the evening went to
Satadoo, which is only one mile east of the river. As there was great
appearance of rain, put all the baggage into one, and slept on the top of
the bundles, leaving the other tent for the soldiers. We had a heavy
tornado with much thunder and lightning.
June 9th.--In the morning the soldier, who had been left to take care of
the sick man, returned; and informed us that he died at eight o'clock the
preceding evening; and that with the assistance of the Negroes he had
buried him in the place where the people of the village bury their dead.
Purchased corn for the asses, and a large bullock for the people;
likewise one ass.
Went into the town in the evening, and presented the Dooty with six bars,
requesting a guide to Shrondo, which he readily granted. Satadoo is
walled round, and contains about three hundred huts: it was formerly much
larger. Observed mer. alt. sun 160° 6'; observed mer. alt. Jupiter 116
36'.
Five of the soldiers, who did not go into the tent, but staid under the
tree during the rain, complained much of headache and uneasiness at
stomach.
June 10th. The soldiers still sickly. Left Satadoo at sun-rise: several
of our canteens stolen during the night. This forenoon we travelled for
more than two miles over white quartz, large lumps of which were lying
all round; no other stone to be seen. Carried forwards a large skinful of
water, being uncertain whether we should find any on the road. At eleven
o'clock reached the bed of a stream flowing to the left, called Billalla,
where we found some muddy water.
Resumed our journey at half past three o'clock, and travelled over a hard
rocky soil towards the mountains; many of the asses very much fatigued.
The front of the coffle reached Shrondo at sunset; but being in the rear
I had to mount one of the sick men on my horse, and assist in driving the
fatigued asses: so that I did not reach the halting place till eight
o'clock, and was forced to leave four asses in the woods. Shrondo is but
a small town. We halted as usual under a tree at a little distance; and
before we could pitch one of the tents, we were overtaken by a very heavy
tornado, which wet us all completely. In attempting to fasten up one of
the tents to a branch of the tree, had my hat blown away, and lost. The
ground all round was covered with water about three inches deep. We had
another tornado about two o'clock in the morning. The tornado which took
place on our arrival, had an instant effect on the health of the
soldiers, and proved to us, to be the _beginning of sorrow_. I had
proudly flattered myself that we should reach the Niger with a very
moderate loss; we had had two men sick of the dysentery; one of them
recovered completely on the march, and the other would doubtless have
recovered, had he not been wet by the rain at Baniserile. But now the
rain had set in, and I trembled to think that we were only halfway
through our journey. The rain had not commenced three minutes before many
of the soldiers were affected with vomiting; others fell asleep, and
seemed as if half intoxicated. I felt a strong inclination to sleep
during the storm; and as soon as it was over I fell asleep on the wet
ground, although I used every exertion to keep myself awake. The soldiers
likewise fell asleep on the wet bundles.
June 11th.--Twelve of the soldiers sick. Went and waited on the Dooty,
and presented him with five bars of amber, and two of beads, requesting
his permission to go and look at the gold mines, which I understood were
in the vicinity. Having obtained his permission, I hired a woman to go
with me, and agreed to pay her a bar of amber if she would shew me a
grain of gold. We travelled about half a mile west of the town, when we
came to a small meadow spot of about four or five acres extent, in which
were several holes dug resembling wells. They were in general about ten
or twelve feet deep; towards the middle of the meadow spot the holes were
deepest, and shallower towards the sides. Their number was about thirty,
besides many old ones which had sunk down. Near the mouths of these pits
were several other shallow pits, lined with clay, and full of rain water:
between the _mine pits_ and these _wash pits_ laid several
heaps of sandy gravel. On the top of each was a stone; some of the stones
white, others red, others black, &c. These serve to distinguish each
person's property. I could see nothing peculiar in this gravel; some
silicious pebbles as large as a pigeon's egg, pieces of white and reddish
quartz, iron stone, and killow, and a soft friable yellow stone, which
crumbled to pieces by the fingers, were the chief minerals that I could
distinguish. Besides the above there was a great portion of sand, and a
yellow earth resembling _till_.
The woman took about half a pound of gravel with one hand from the heap,
which I suppose belonged to her; and having put it into a large calabash,
threw a little water on it with a small calabash; which two calabashes
are all that are necessary for washing gold. The quantity of water was
only sufficient to cover the sand about one inch. She then crumbled the
sand to pieces, and mixt it with the water; this she did not in a
rotatory manner, but by pulling her hands towards herself, as shewn in
the following sketch.
[Illustration]
She then threw out all the large pebbles, looking on the ground where she
threw them, for fear of throwing out a piece of gold. Having done this,
she gave the sand and water a rotatory motion, so as to make a part of
the sand and water fly over the brim of the calabash. While she did this
with her _right_ hand, with her _left_ she threw out of the
centre of the vortex a portion of sand and water at every revolution. She
then put in a little fresh water, and as the quantity of sand was now
much diminished, she held the calabash in an oblique direction, and made
the sand move slowly round on the line AB, while she constantly agitated
it with a quick motion in the direction CD.
[Illustration]
I now observed a quantity of black matter, resembling gunpowder, which
she told me was _gold rust_; and before she had moved the sand one
quarter round the calabash, she pointed to a yellow speck, and said,
_sanoo affilli_, see the gold. On looking attentively I saw a
portion of pure gold, and took it out. It would have weighed about _one
grain_. The whole of the washing, from the first putting in of the
sand till she shewed me the gold, did not exceed the space of _two
minutes_. I now desired her to take a larger portion. She put in, as
nearly as I could guess, about two pounds; and having washed it in the
same manner, and nearly in the same time, found no fewer than
_twenty-three_ particles; some of them were very small. In both cases
I observed that the quantity of sanoo mira, or _gold rust_, was at
least forty times greater than the quantity of gold. She assured me that
they sometimes found pieces of gold as large as her fist. I could not
ascertain the quantity of gold washed here in one year; but I believe it
must be considerable, though they wash only during the beginning and end
of the rains. Gold is sold here, and all along our route, by the
minkalli: six teelee kissi (a sort of bean, the fruit of a large tree)
make one minkalli: the weight of six teelee kissi is exactly [dram] &
[scruple]. In Kaarta they use a small bean called jabee kissi, twenty-four
of which make one minkalli; a jabee kissi weighs exactly four grains. In
Kasson, twelve small tamarind stones make one minkalli, which I believe is
the heaviest minkalli in this part of Africa. If gold is purchased with
amber, _one bead_ of No. 4 will, in almost all cases, purchase one
_teelee kissi_: but it can be purchased with more advantage with
beads or scarlet, and still more so with gunpowder. I did not purchase
any; but our guide bought a considerable quantity, and I was present at
all his bargain-making.
Went in the afternoon to see a brother of Karfa Taura's; he had a very
large collection of Arabic books, and I made him quite happy by adding an
Arabic New Testament to the number.
June 12th.--Left Shrondo early in the morning; the sick being unable to
walk, I gave them all the horses and spare asses. Travelled slowly along
the bottom of the Konkodoo mountains, which are very steep precipices of
rock, from eighty to two or three hundred feet high. We reached Dindikoo
at noon; at which time it came on a tornado so rapidly, that we were
forced to carry our bundles into the huts of the natives; this being the
first time the coffle had entered a town since leaving Gambia. As soon as
the rain was over, went with Mr. Anderson to see the gold pits which are
near this town. The pits are dug exactly in the same manner as at
Shrondo; a section of the pit would have this appearance.
[Illustration]
The notches in the side of the pit serve as a ladder to descend by. The
gravel here is very coarse; some round stones larger than a man's head,
and a vast number larger than one's fist were lying round the mouths of
the pits, which were near twenty in number. Near the pits is a stream of
water, and as the banks had been scraped away to wash for gold, I could
distinguish a stratum of earth and large stones about ten feet thick, and
under this a stratum of two feet of ferruginous pebbles about the size of
a pigeon's egg, and a yellow and rusty-coloured sand and earth; under
this a stratum of tough white clay. The rusty-coloured sand is that in
which the gold is found. Saw plenty of the gold rust.
When I returned from the gold pits, I went with Mr. Scott to go to the
top of the hill, which is close to the town. The hill was very steep and
rocky. The rocks (like all the hills in Konkodoo) are a coarse reddish
granite, composed of red feldspar, white quartz, and black shorl; but it
differs from any granite I have seen, in having round smooth pebbles,
many of them as large as a cannon shot. These pebbles, when broken, are
granite, but of a paler colour and closer texture. The day was cool; but
after fatiguing ourselves and resting six times, we found that we were
only about half way to the top. We were surprised to find the hill
cultivated to the very summits; and though the people of Dindikoo were
but preparing their fields, the corn on the hill was six inches high. The
villages on these mountains are romantic beyond anything I ever saw. They
are built in the most delightful glens of the mountains; they have plenty
of water and grass at all seasons; they have cattle enough for their own
use, and their superfluous grain purchases all their luxuries; and while
the thunder rolls in awful grandeur over their heads, they can look from
their tremendous precipices over all that wild and woody plain which
extends from the Faleme to the Black River. This plain is in extent, from
North to South, about forty miles: the range of hills to the South seem
to run in the same direction as those of Konkodoo, viz. from East to
West. There are no lions on the hills, though they are very numerous in
the plain. In the evening Lieutenant Martyn fell sick of the fever.
June 13th.--Early in the morning departed from Dindikoo. The sick
occupied all the horses and spare asses; and as the number of drivers was
thus diminished, we had very hard work to get on. Ten of the loaded asses
and drivers went a different road. Mr. Anderson and Mr. Scott being with
them, fired their muskets as soon as they observed that the guide was
leading them in a road where were no asses' foot marks. Answered them;
and sent the serjeant to their assistance. In half an hour they came up,
having gone about three miles too much to the right. Reached a village
almost deserted about one o'clock, and found the coffle halted by a
stream to the east of it. Very uneasy about our situation: half of the
people being either sick of the fever or unable to use great exertion,
and fatigued in driving the asses. Found, to my great mortification, that
the ass which carried the telescope and several other things, was not
come up. Mr. Anderson, the serjeant, and our guide rode back about five
miles in search of it; but returned at half past three o'clock, without
being able to find it. Presented the Dooty of the village with five bars
of amber; requesting him, if he heard of it, to send it forward, and I
would reward him for it. Put on the loads; and part of the coffle had
departed, when one of the Dooty's sons came and told us that he had seen
the ass, and brought it to the village. Went to the village, and paid the
person who found it twenty bars, and the Dooty ten bars. Mounted the load
on my horse, and drove it before me. I did not reach Fankia till seven
o'clock; having to walk slow, in order to coax on three sick soldiers who
had fallen behind, and were for lying down under every tree they passed.
Fankia is a small village, four miles North West from _Binlingalla_.
Here we departed from my former route, and did not touch on it again till
we reached the Niger.
Chapter III.
Departure from Fankia--Tambaura mountains, and difficulties in ascending
the Pass--Toombin--Great embarrassments on the road--Serimanna--Fajemmia
--Astronomical observations--Increase of the sick--Nealakalla--Ba Lee
River--Boontoonkooran--Dooggikotta--Falifing--Losses on the
road--Gimbia; inhospitable treatment--Sullo--Face of the country--Secoba
--Kronkromo--Passage of the Ba Fing--Mode of smelting and working gold
--Fatal accident in crossing the Ba Fing--Hippopotami--Deaths and losses
on the route--Increase of sickness--Reach Viandry--Koeena--Danger from
young lions--Koombandi--Great embarrassments on the road--Fonilla--Ba
Woolima River; difficulties in crossing it--Isaaco seized by a crocodile
--Boolinkoonbo--Distressing situation of the whole of the party--Reach
Serrababoo--Saboseera.
CHAPTER III.
June 14th.--I halted at Fankia, in order to give the sick a little rest,
knowing there was a steep hill to ascend near this place. Found myself
very sick, having been feverish all night.
' "
Observed mer. alt. Sun, - 159 39 0
----------
79 49 0-1/2
0 16 0
----------
80 5 30
----------
Z.D. - 9 55 30
D. - - 23 17 0
----------
Latitude - 13 22 30
Bought corn for the asses, and plenty of fowls for the sick.
June 15th.--Left Fankia: men still very sickly, and some of them slightly
delirious. About a mile N.E. of this village is the passage in the
Tambaura mountains, called Toombinjeena. The ascent is very steep and
rocky: the perpendicular of the steepest place would not much exceed
three hundred feet. The asses being heavily loaded, in order to spare as
many as possible for the sick, we had much difficulty in getting our
loads up this steep. The number of asses exceeding the drivers, presented
a dreadful scene of confusion in this rocky staircase; loaded asses
tumbling over the rocks, sick soldiers unable to walk, black fellows
stealing; in fact it certainly was _uphill work_ with us at this
place. Having got up all the loads and asses, set forwards; and about two
miles from the steep came to the delightful village of Toombin. On
collecting our loads, found that the natives had stolen from us seven
pistols, two great coats and one knapsack, besides other small articles.
Sent back the horses for two sick soldiers, who were unable to ride on
the horses, and were left at the steep. Pitched the tent, and secured the
baggage from the rain.
[Footnote: See Park's Travels, p. 257]
June 16th.--Left Toombin. Just as the people and asses were gone, the
good old schoolmaster whom I mentioned in my former travels came up. He
had heard the night before that I was with the party, and had travelled
all night to come and see me. As the loads were gone on, I told him I
wished him to go forward with me to the place where we should halt; that
I might reward him in some degree for his former kindness. Recovered
three of the pistols which had been stolen, and one great coat. Set
forwards. About a mile to the east of the village found _Hinton_,
one of the sick who rode Mr. Anderson's horse, lying under a tree, and
the horse grazing at a little distance. Some of the natives had stolen
the pistols from the holsters, and robbed my coat case, which was
fastened behind the saddle, of a string of coral, all the amber and beads
it contained, and one barraloolo. Luckily they did not fancy my pocket
sextant, and artificial horizon, which were in the same place. Put the
sick man on the horse and drove it before me; and after holding him on
and using every exertion to keep him on the saddle, I found that I was
unable to carry him on, and having fatigued myself very much with
carrying him forwards about six miles, I was forced to leave him.
About a mile after I left Hinton, I came to two others lying in the shade
of a tree. Mounted one on Mr. Anderson's horse, and the other on my own,
and drove them before me. Reached the village of Serimanna about half
past twelve o'clock: sent back a horse in the cool of the evening for
Hinton, and brought him to the village, being obliged to tie him on the
horse.
Gave the schoolmaster five bars of scarlet, one barraloolo, ten bars of
beads, fourteen of amber, and two dollars, which made him completely
happy. I likewise gave him an Arabic New Testament, which he promised to
read with attention.
June 17th.--Finding that Hinton was worse, and Sparks delirious, left
them to the care of the Dooty of the village; having given him amber and
beads sufficient to purchase victuals for them if they lived, and to bury
them if they died. If they recovered, he engaged to join them to the
first coffle travelling to Gambia. From Serimanna in two hours we reached
Fajemmia: this is only a small village, but fortified with a high wall.
The chief, from whom the village has its name, formerly resided at
Faramba, to the East of this; but has lately retired here, leaving his
people and slaves at Faramba. Fajemmia is the most powerful chief of
Konkodoo, and holds under his subjection all the country from Toombin to
the Ba Fing.
The customs paid by travellers being always in proportion to the power
and mischievous disposition of the chiefs; those paid at Fajemmia are of
course very high.
I paid as follows:
Bars
Amber 15
Beads 50
Scarlet 20
Amber 35
Amber 14
Barraloolo 15
----
149 bars;
a soldier's musket, a pair of handsome pistols, a handsome sword, a great
coat, and one hundred gun flints.
Very happy to get so well over the palaver; for he insisted long on
having the customs, or four bottles of gunpowder for each ass, which
would have distressed us very much; and we could have made but a feeble
resistance, being so very sickly. Observed an emersion of Jupiter's first
satellite.
June 17th, time by the watch 13° 6' 15".
June 18th, altitudes for the time with artificial horizon.
H. M. S. ' H. M. S. '
6 25 35 | 19 36 6 27 41 | 18 43
26 13 | 19 28 28 19 | 18 24
26 51 | 19 5 28 50 | 18 12
6 29 39 17 49
30 23 17 30
30 48 17 19
Longitude not yet calculated.
' "
June 18th.--Obser. mer. alt. Sun, 159 49 0
----------
79 54 0-1/2
0 16 0
----------
80 10 0-1/2
----------
Z.D. - 9 50 0
D. - 23 25 0
----------
Latitude 13 35 0 N.
Our palaver with Fajemmia was not finished till the morning of the 19th.
During the 18th, 19th, and 20th I was very sick; and though in general I
was able to sit up part of the day, yet I was very weak, and unable to
attend to the marketing of corn, milk, and fowls. Mr. Anderson therefore
bought these articles, and attended to the cattle, &c. Lieutenant Martyn,
the sergeant, corporal, and half the soldiers sick of the fever. Boiled a
camp kettle full of strong decoction of cinchona every day since leaving
Dindikoo. Purchased three asses, and hired our guide's people to drive
four of our asses in addition to the two they already drove, making
altogether six asses, for one hundred and twenty bars.
On the 18th, Mr. Anderson and one of the soldiers went back to Serimanna
to see the two men left there, and ascertain if they could possibly be
carried forward. Returned on the 19th, and reported that they were both
alive, but not in a state to be moved, and were themselves anxious to
remain where they were, as it afforded them the only chance of recovery.
June 20th.--When we had loaded the asses, found one of the soldiers
(_old Rowe_) unable to ride. Paid ten bars of amber, and measured
eighteen days rice for him to one of the best men in the village, who, I
have no doubt, will take care of him. Shortly after leaving Fajemmia, it
began to thunder, and by the time we had travelled four miles we
experienced a smart tornado, which wetted many of the loads, and made the
road very muddy and slippery. We reached a village nearly deserted,
called Nealakalla, about noon. Here we found that the ass which carried
the spare clothing was not come up; and as many of the men were very ill
situated, particularly with respect to shoes, I thought it best to send
back two of the men a few miles to see if they could find it. Felt rather
uneasy about the men, as they did not return at sun-set. Fired several
muskets, but heard no answer. The village of Nealakalla is close to the
_Ba Lee_ or Honey river, which we found discoloured, but not
sensibly swelled. Saw two crocodiles, and an incredible number of large
fish.
June 21st.--As the two men had not yet arrived, sent forward the coffle
to cross the river: desired Mr. Scott to fire a musket when they had all
crossed. Mr. Anderson and myself agreed to stop at Nealakalla till noon,
in hopes of hearing something concerning the two men. They arrived about
eleven o'clock, having found the ass and load so near Fajemmia, that they
had gone there and slept in the same hut with old Rowe, who, they told
us, was recovering and very well pleased with his situation. Set
forwards; and about a mile to the N.E. of the village crossed the river
at a place where its course is interrupted by a bed of whinstone rock,
which forms the stream into a number of small cataracts. The people had
to carry over all the loads on their heads, and we found them cooking on
the East bank of the river, and nearly ready to set forwards. Mr.
Anderson and I stepped across the river from rock to rock without wetting
our feet.
As soon as the men had finished their breakfast we set forwards, and
about two miles East came to a narrow and deep creek, in which was a
stream of muddy water. Crossed this with so much difficulty, that some
were for calling it _Vinegar Creek_. About four o'clock passed the
village of _Boontoonkooran_, delightfully situated at the bottom of
a steep and rocky hill. Two miles East of this we halted for the night at
the village of _Dooggikotta_; where the cultivation is very
extensive, and we had much difficulty in keeping our cattle off the corn.
A tornado during the night.
June 22d.--Halted till near ten o'clock, as there was great appearance of
rain. William Roberts, one of the carpenters who had been sick since
leaving Fajemmia, declared that he was unable to proceed, and signed a
note that he was left by his own consent. Passed a small village about
four miles to the East, and travelled on the ascent near a river course
almost the whole day. We had a fine view of _Kullallie_, a high
detached and square rocky hill, which we had seen ever since we left
Fajemmia. This hill is quite inaccessible on all sides, and level and
green on the top. The natives affirm that there is a lake of water on its
summit, and they frequently go round the bottom of the precipices, during
the rainy season, and pick up _large turtles_, which have tumbled
over the precipice and killed themselves. Saw many very picturesque and
rocky hills during the march, and in the evening halted at the village of
_Falifing_, which is situated on the summit of the ascent which
separates the _Ba lee_ from the _Ba fing_. Lost one ass, and
80lbs. of balls on the march.
June 23d.--Early in the morning resumed our journey; and after travelling
two hours on a level plain, bounded with high rocky precipices on our
right and left, we descended slowly towards the East, and shortly came to
the village of _Gimbia_, or _Kimbia_. I chanced to be in the
rear, bringing on some asses which had thrown their loads; and when I
came up I found all about the village wearing a hostile appearance, the
men running from the corn grounds and putting on their quivers, &c. The
cause of this tumult was, as usual, the _love of money_. The
villagers had heard that the white men were to pass; that they were very
sickly, and unable to make any resistance, or to defend the immense
wealth in their possession. Accordingly when part of the coffle had
passed the village, the people sallied out; and, under pretence that the
coffle should not pass till the Dooty pleased, insisted on turning back
the asses. One of them seized the serjeant's horse by the bridle to lead
it into the village; but when the serjeant cocked his pistol and
presented it, he dropped the bridle; others drove away the asses with
their loads, and every thing seemed going into confusion. The soldiers
with great coolness loaded their pieces with ball, and fixed their
bayonets: on seeing this the villagers hesitated, and the soldiers drove
the asses across the bed of a torrent; and then returned, leaving a
sufficient number to guard the asses.
The natives collected themselves under a tree by the gate of the village,
where I found the Dooty and Isaaco at very high words. On enquiring the
cause of the tumult, Isaaco informed me that the villagers had attempted
to take the loads from the asses. I turned to the Dooty, and asked him
who were the persons that had dared to make such an attempt. He pointed
to about thirty people armed with bows; on which I fell a laughing, and
asked him if he really thought that such people could fight; adding, if
he had a mind to make the experiment, they need only go up and attempt to
take off one of the loads. They seemed by this time to be fully satisfied
that they had made a vain attempt; and the Dooty desired me to tell the
men to go forward with the asses. As I did not know but perhaps some of
the sick might be under the necessity of returning this way, I thought it
adviseable to part on friendly terms; and therefore gave the Dooty four
bars of amber, and told him that we did not come to make war; but if any
person made war on us, we would defend ourselves to the last.
Set forwards, and half a mile to the East descended into a rocky valley:
many of the asses fell in going down the steep. About noon reached
_Sullo_, an unwalled village at the bottom of a rocky hill. Shortly
after we halted Lieutenant Martyn's horse died. This was a _God
send_ to the people of Sullo, who cut him up as if he had been a
bullock, and had almost come to _blows_ about the division of him;
so much is horse-flesh esteemed at this place. Numbers of large monkies
on the rocks over the town.
June 24th.--Left Sullo, and travelled through a country beautiful beyond
imagination, with all the possible diversities of _rock_, sometimes
towering up like ruined castles, spires, pyramids, &c. We passed one
place so like a ruined Gothic abbey, that we halted a little, before we
could satisfy ourselves that the niches, windows, ruined staircase, &c.
were all natural rock. A faithful description of this place would
certainly be deemed a fiction.
Passed a hill composed of one homogeneous mass of solid rock (red
granite) without a detached stone or blade of grass; never saw such a
hill in my life. In the course of the march saw several villages
romantically situated in the crescents formed by the rocky precipices;
the medium height of these precipices is from one hundred to five or six
hundred feet perpendicular. The whole country between the Ba fing and Ba
lee is rugged and grand beyond any thing I have seen.
We reached _Secoba_ at noon. The Dooty of this town is Fajemmia's
younger brother. Presented him with goods to the amount of 50 bars; he
was so much pleased that he said he would go with us till we had crossed
the _Ba fing_, and see that the canoe people did not impose on us.
Obser. Mer. Alt. of Jupiter ' "
115 28 0
----------
57 44 0
0 0 36
----------
57 43 24
----------
32 16 36
18 49 10
----------
Latitude 13 27 26
June 25th.--Halted at _Secoba_, in order to refresh the sick; bought
plenty of fowls and milk for them.
June 26th.--Departed from Secoba, accompanied by the Dooty and several
people. Hired three of the Dooty's friends, as guides to Kandy, in that
district of Fooladoo called Gangaran. About seven miles East of Secoba
came to the village of Konkromo, where we pitched our tents by the river
side. The day was too far spent before we had agreed with the canoe
people, and, as we could not possibly carry all the loads over, thought
it best to wait till next morning. As I thought it probable that we
should have an opportunity of observing an eclipse of Jupiter's first
satellite, I took the following altitudes for the time.
H. M. S. ' H. M. S. ' H. M. S. '
5 25 55 | 45 36 5 30 2 | 43 47 5 36 22 | 40 55
0 26 53 | 45 13 0 30 42 | 43 28 0 37 3 | 40 35
0 27 37 | 44 55 0 31 25 | 43 10 0 37 44 | 40 17
Observed the emersion of the first satellite of Jupiter.
H. M. S.
By watch - - - - 9 26 20
Time by Nautical Almanack - 9 24 53
Equation - - - 0 2 15
--------
Mean time at Greenwich 9 27 8
9 27 8
--------
Watch too slow 0 0 48
Longitude 32 m. 24 sec. or 8° 6' W.
June 27th.--Early in the morning paid the canoe people 50 bars to carry
over all our baggage and cattle, and likewise presented the Dooty of
_Secoba_ with some beads.
Four canoes sufficient to carry only an ass load and an half at a time,
were provided for this purpose. Sent over Mr. Anderson and six men with
their arms to receive the loads from the canoes and carry them into the
tents. The asses were made to swim over, one on each side of the canoe,
two boys sitting in the canoe and holding them by the ears.
At this place I had an opportunity of seeing their mode of smelting gold.
Isaaco had purchased some gold in coming through Konkodoo, and here he
had it made into a large ring. The smith made a crucible of common red
clay and dried it in the sun: into this he put the gold, without any flux
or mixture whatever; he then put charcoal under and over it, and blowing
the fire with the common double bellows of the country, soon produced
such a heat as to bring the gold into a state of fusion. He then made a
small furrow in the ground, into which he poured the melted gold; when it
was cold he took it up, and heating it again, soon hammered it into a
square bar. Then heating it again, he twisted it by means of two pairs of
pincers into a sort of screw; and lengthening out the ends, turned them
up so as to form a massy and precious ring.
When the baggage and cattle were all transported over, I sent over the
men, and embarked myself in the last canoe; but as one of the soldiers in
the other canoe had gone out to purchase something, I made the canoe in
which I was shove off, telling the men to come off the moment the man
returned. I found it difficult to sit in the canoe so as to balance it,
though it contained only three people besides the rower. We had just
landed on the East bank, when we observed the canoe, in which were the
three soldiers, pushing off from the opposite bank. It shortly after
overset, and though the natives from the shore swam in to their
assistance, yet J. Cartwright was unfortunately drowned. The natives
dived and recovered two of the muskets, and Cartwright's body; they put
the body in the canoe and brought it over. I used the means recommended
by the Humane Society, but in vain. We buried him in the evening on the
bank of the river.
The Ba fing is here a large river quite navigable; it is swelled at this
time about two feet, and flows at the rate of three knots per hour. The
people here are _all thieves:_ they attempted to steal several of
our loads, and we detected one carrying away the bundle in which was all
our medicines. We could not sleep with the noise of the hippopotami,
which came close to the bank and kept snorting and blowing all night. The
night being clear, observed the emersion of Jupiter's second satellite;
it emerged
H. M. S.
By watch - - - - 11 25 55
Time by Nautical Almanack 11 24 40
Equation - - - 0 1 53
--------
Mean time at Greenwich 11 26 33
11 26 33
--------
Watch too slow 0 0 38
June 28th.--Purchased an ass for four minkallis of gold, and a horse for
45 bars. Set forwards about seven o'clock. After travelling four miles,
the ass I had purchased lay down, and I found it impossible to raise him.
Took off the load and left him. At ten o'clock came close to the bottom
of a high rocky hill, which rises like an immense castle from the level
plain: it is called _Sankaree_: and on enquiring about a large heap
of stones near the foot of the precipice, I was told that the town of
Madina, which was in the vicinity, was some years ago stormed by the
Kaartans, and that the greater part of the inhabitants fled towards this
hill. Some however were killed on the road, and these stones were
collected over the grave of one of them. He said there were five more
such near the hill, and that every person in passing, if he belongs to
the same family or _contong_, thinks himself bound to throw a stone
on the heap to perpetuate the memory of their friend. These heaps are
precisely what in Scotland are called _Cairns_. This hill is
accessible only by one very narrow and difficult path. They assured me
that there was abundance of water on the summit at all seasons, and that
the huts built by the Madina people were still standing on the summit,
though out of repair.
At eleven o'clock crossed a stream, like a mill stream, running North. We
halted on the East side of it; found that one of the asses with a load of
beads had not come up. The soldier who drove it (Bloore), without
acquainting any person, returned to look for it. Shortly after the ass
and load were found in the woods. Sent the serjeant after Bloore on one
of the horses; he rode back as far as Sankaree without seeing him, and
concluded he had lost the path. He found one of the sick (Walter) who had
wandered from the track (for there was no road); and had laid himself
down among the bushes till some of the natives discovered him. Paid the
natives ten bars of amber, and desired them to look for Bloore.
In the afternoon collected the asses for marching. Had great difficulty
in finding the horses, one of which (the serjeant's), after all our
search could not be found. As it was in vain to wait for Bloore, put on
the loads and departed. It is to be observed that there is no path-way in
these woods, and we found much difficulty in keeping together: fired
muskets frequently to give intimation of our line of march. After
travelling about four miles, Shaddy Walter, the sick man before
mentioned, became so exhausted that he could not sit on the ass. He was
fastened on it, and held upright; he became more and more faint, and
shortly after died. He was brought forwards to a place where the front of
the coffle had halted, to allow the rear to come up. Here when the coffle
had set forwards, two of the soldiers with their bayonets, and myself
with my sword, dug his grave in the wild desert; and a few branches were
the only laurels which covered the tomb of the brave.
We did not come up to the coffle till they had halted for the night near
a pool of water shaded with ground palm-trees. Here I was informed that
two of the soldiers were not come up; one (Baron) was seen about a mile
from the halting place; the other (Hill) was supposed to be three or four
miles behind. Fired two muskets every quarter of an hour; one to call
their attention, and the other about half a minute after to give the
direction. At half past seven Hill came up, being directed entirely by
the sound of the muskets. At eleven o'clock saw some lights in the woods,
and heard people holla: in a little time five people came, bringing with
them Bloore, the man who had gone in quest of the ass. He had gone back
as far as the Black River, crossed it and made signs to the people about
the ass and the load. As they did not rightly understand him, they
thought that some party had fallen on the coffle, and that this soldier
had run away. They therefore came with him to see if they could come in
for their share, or at least receive some reward for coming along with
the man. Paid them ten bars of amber, and desired them to look for Baron,
and I would give them ten bars more if they found him.
June 29th.--At day-break fired muskets for Baron; and as it was evident
he must have wandered from the track made by the asses, and it was in
vain to look for him in so extensive a wilderness, at half past six
o'clock loaded the asses and set out. Two more of the soldiers affected
with the fever. Route in the morning rocky. Traveled twelve miles without
halting, in order to reach a watering place. About two miles before we
came to the watering place, Bloore, the soldier who had come up during
the night, sat down under the shade of a tree; and when I desired him to
proceed, he said he was rather fatigued, and when he had cooled himself,
he would follow. I assured him that the halting place was only a very
little way off, and advised him by all means not to fall asleep. We
halted on an elevated table land: the water was only rain collected in
the hollow places of the rock. At half past four o'clock, as Bloore had
not come up, I sent the Sergeant on one of the horses to bring him
forward; he returned at sun-set, having seen nothing of him, and having
rode several miles past the place. I suspected that the serjeant might
have rode past him asleep under the tree; I therefore got three
volunteers to go with me, and look for him. It was now quite dark. We
collected a large bundle of dry grassland taking out a handful at a time,
kept up a constant light, in order to frighten the lions which are very
numerous in these woods. When we reached the tree under which he lay
down, we made a fire. Saw the place where he had pressed down the grass,
and the marks of his feet: went to the west along the pathway, and
examined for the marks of his feet, thinking he might possibly have
mistaken the direction. Found none: fired several muskets. Hollowed, and
set fire to the grass. Returned to the tree and examined all round; saw
no blood nor the foot marks of any wild beasts. Fired six muskets more.
As any further search was likely to be fruitless, (for we did not dare to
walk far from the track for fear of losing ourselves) we returned to the
tents. One of Isaaco's people shot an antelope in the evening, which more
than supplied us all with meat. Much troubled in the night with wolves.
June 30th.--Early in the morning set forwards, and descended from the
table land into a more fertile plain. Vast numbers of monkies on the
rocks. Reached Kandy after a march of ten miles, all very much fatigued.
This is but a small town; the large town having been taken and burnt by
Daisy's son about two years ago, and all the people carried away. Mr.
Anderson and Mr. Scott sick of the lever.
July 1st.--Covered a load of beads with the skin of the antelope. One of
the bundles containing all our small _seed beads_ stolen during the
night; made all the search I could, but in vain: I could not recover it.
As we were short of rice, and none could be purchased here, determined to
push on as quick as possible; but the men were so very sickly, that I
judged it imprudent to trust the baggage and asses without proper
drivers. Employed in dividing the asses amongst the healthy men.
July 2d.--Set forwards. Two more of the soldiers sick of the fever. When
we had travelled about three miles, one of the soldiers (Roger M'Millan)
became so delirious, that it was found impossible to carry him forwards.
Left him at a village called _Sanjeekotta_. I regretted much being
under the necessity of leaving in the hour of sickness and distress, a
man who had grown old in the service of his country. He had been
thirty-one years a soldier, twelve times a corporal, nine times a
serjeant; but an unfortunate attachment to the _bottle_ always
returned him into the ranks.
We reached _Koeena_ about three o'clock, all very much fatigued. I
felt myself very sickly, having lifted up and reloaded a great many asses
on the road. The village of _Koeena_ is walled round, and it is
surrounded on three sides with rocky precipices. Had a severe tornado at
seven o'clock, which put out the watch-fire and made us all crowd into
the tents. When the violence of the squall was over, we heard a
particular sort of roaring or growling, not unlike the noise of a wild
boar; there seemed to be more than one of them, and they went all round
our cattle. Fired two muskets to make them keep at a distance; but as
they still kept prowling round us, we collected a bunch of withered
grass, and went with Lieutenant Martyn in search of the animals,
suspecting them to be wild boars. We got near one of them, and fired
several shots into the bush, and one at him as he went off among the long
grass. When we returned to the tents, I learned by enquiring of the
natives that the animals we had been in search of were not boars, but
young lions; and they assured me that unless we kept a very good look out
they would probably kill some of our cattle during the night. About
midnight these young lions attempted to seize one of the asses, which so
much alarmed the rest that they broke their ropes, and came at full
gallop in amongst the tent ropes. Two of the lions followed them, and
came so close to us that the sentry cut at one of them with his sword,
but did not dare to fire for fear of killing the asses. Neglected to wind
up the watch.
July 3d.--Departed from Koeena, and halted during the heat of the day at
Koombandi, distant six miles. Here the guides that I had hired from
Kandy, were to return; and I had agreed with them to carry back
M'Millan's knapsack, and some amber and beads to purchase provisions for
him; but three people came up to us with two asses for sale, and they
informed me that they left Sanjeekotta early in the morning; that the
soldier who was left there, had died during the night, and the natives
had buried him in a corn field near the town. Purchased the asses in
order to carry forwards the sick.
About three o'clock left Koombandi. Mr. Anderson and Mr. Scott were so
sick, that they wished to remain here for the night; with much
entreating, persuaded them to mount their horses and go on. Three miles
east of the village, William Alston, one of the seamen whom I received
from His Majesty's ship Squirrel, became so faint that he fell from his
ass, and allowed the ass to run away. Set him on my horse, but found he
could not sit without holding him. Replaced him on the ass, but he still
tumbled off: put him again on the horse, and made one man keep him
upright, while I led the horse. But as he made no exertion to keep
himself erect, it was impossible to hold him on the horse, and after
repeated tumbles he begged to be left in the woods till morning. I left a
loaded pistol with him, and put some cartridges into the crown of his
hat. At sun-set reached Fonilla, a small walled village on the banks of
the Wonda, which is here called _Ba Woolima_ (Red river), and
towards its source it has the name of _Ba qui_ (White river), the
middle part of its course being called _Wonda._ It had swelled two
feet perpendicular by the rains which had fallen to the southward, and
was very muddy; but cannot even in its present state be reckoned a large
river.
July 4th--Agreed with the canoe people to carry over our baggage and
cattle for sixty bars. There being but one canoe, it was near noon before
all the bundles were carried over. The transporting of the asses was very
difficult. The river being shallow and rocky; whenever their feet touched
the bottom they generally stood still. Our guide, Isaaco, was very active
in pushing the asses into the water, and shoving along the canoe; but as
he was afraid that we could not have them all carried over in the course
of the day he attempted to drive six of the asses across the river
farther down where the water was shallower. When he had reached the
middle of the river a crocodile rose close to him, and instantly seizing
him by the left thigh, pulled him under water. With wonderful presence of
mind he felt the head of the animal, and thrust his finger into its eye;
on which it quitted its hold, and Isaaco attempted to reach the further
shore, calling out for a knife. But the crocodile returned and seized him
by the other thigh, and again pulled him under water; he had recourse to
the same expedient, and thrust his fingers into its eyes with such
violence that it again quitted him; and when it rose, flounced about on
the surface of the water as if stupid, and then swam down the middle of
the river. Isaaco proceeded to the other side, bleeding very much. As
soon as the canoe returned I went over, and found him very much
lacerated. The wound on the left thigh was four inches in length: that on
the right not quite so large, but very deep; besides several single teeth
wounds on his back. Drew the lips of the wounds together with slips of
adhesive plaister secured with a roller; and as we were not far from a
village, he thought it best for him to go forwards before his wounds had
become very painful. He accordingly rode forwards to the village of
Boolinkoomboo on one of our horses. Found myself very sick, and unable to
stand erect without feeling a tendency to faint; the people so sickly
that it was with some difficulty we got the loads put into the tents,
though it threatened rain. To my great astonishment, _Ashton_, the
sailor whom I had left in the woods the evening before, came up quite
naked, having been stripped of his clothes by three of the natives during
the night. Found his fever much abated.
[Footnote: The name is thus written in Mr. Park's MS.; but it seems to be
a mistake for _Alston_, v. ante p. 87.]
July 5th.--With great difficulty got the asses loaded, but had not a
sufficient number of spare asses for the sick. Set one of them on my
horse, and walked, feeling a remission of the fever, though still very
giddy and unwell. We soon reached Boolinkoomboo, it being only two miles
from the landing place. This village is sometimes called Moiaharra: it
does not contain above one hundred people. On collecting the asses, found
that three were missing, besides a sickly one, which was too weak to
cross the river, and was eaten by the people of Fonilla. All this
diminished our means of carrying forward the sick.
I now found my situation very perplexing. To go forward without Isaaco to
Keminoom, I knew would involve us in difficulties; as Keminoom's sons are
reckoned the greatest thieves and blackguards on the whole route. To stop
till Isaaco recovered (an event which seemed very doubtful), would throw
us into the violence of the rains. There was no other person that I could
trust; and, what was worst of all, we had only _two days rice_, and
a great scarcity prevailed in the country. I determined to wait three
days, to see how Isaaco's wounds looked, and in the mean time sent two of
his people away to Serracorra with an ass and three strings of No. 5.
amber to purchase rice.
July 6th.--All the people either sick, or in a state of great debility,
except one. Bought all the milk I could find, and boiled a camp kettle
full of strong decoction of barks every day.
July 7th.--Dressed Isaaco's wounds: they looked remarkably well.
July 8th.--Waiting very anxiously for the return of Isaaco's people with
the rice, being now on very short allowance.
July 9th.--In the afternoon Isaaco's people returned, bringing with them
l23 lbs. of clean rice; Isaaco's wounds looking well, and beginning to
discharge good pus. Latitude by uncertain obs. mer. alt. of the sun 13
11'.
July 10th.--Departed from Boolinkoomboo, and eight miles N.E. passed the
village of Serrababoo; close to which is a stream called Kinyaco, about
knee deep, running to the N.W. It was very difficult to cross, on account
of the fissures in the rocks which form its bed. Several of the asses
fell, and their loads were of course wet. From this we travelled due
North, over a ridge of rocks, which formed the only passage across a
chain of hills. When we had crossed this, we travelled six miles on a
rocky and almost impassable road, and a little before sun-set, to our
great joy, reached Sabooseera (Dooty Matta). This is a scattered unwalled
village. Latitude by mer. alt. of moon 13° 50'.
Chapter IV.
Arrival at Keminoom, or Manniakorro, on the Ba lee river.--Visit to the
Chief.--Depredations upon the coffle by the inhabitants--Continued
attacks from banditti as far as the Ba Woolima river--Difficulties in
passing it--temporary bridge made by the natives.--Astronomical
observations--Arrival at Mareena; inhospitable conduct of his
inhabitants--Bangassi; interview with the King--Continued sickness, and
deaths among the soldiers.--Arrival at Nummasoolo--Obliged to leave five
of the sick behind--reach Surtaboo--Sobee--Affray between Isaaco and two
soldiers--Balanding--Balandoo--More of the soldiers fall
behind--Koolihori--Greatly annoyed by wolves.
CHAPTER IV.
July 11th.--From Sabooseera, or Mallaboo, we travelled towards the West
and North West till noon, when we arrived at Keminoom, or Maniakorro.
This is a walled town fortified in the strongest manner I have yet seen
in Africa; a section of the walls and ditch would have nearly the
following appearance,
[Illustration]
Pitched our tents under a tree near the Ba lee, which runs here with
great velocity, and breaks into small cataracts.
July 12th.--Went in the morning with Isaaco and waited on Keminoom, or
Mansa Numma, as he is commonly called. I took with me
Bars.
Amber, No. 2 25
Ditto, No. 4 15
Barraloolos 20
Beads 33
Scarlet 10
Balls and flints 2
Looking glasses 5
___
100;
A soldier's musket,
A pair of handsome pistols silver mounted.
He sent them all back, and I was forced to put a silver mounted gun on it
before he would accept of it; and likewise
To Eerujama, the King's brother,
Amber, No. 2 10
Barraloolo 5
To his son,
Amber 10
To the King's people 10
To eight Finnis for singing some nonsense 8
Observed mer. alt. of the sun 163 24'; latitude 14 0'
In the evening had such of the soldiers as were most healthy dressed in
their red coats; and at Numma's request went with them to the town, where
they went through some movements, and fired.
July 13th.--Very desirous to be gone, as we found the people thieves to a
man; in fact we have never yet been at a place where so much theft and
impudence prevails. This can only be accounted for, by considering that
Mansa Numma is the reputed father of more than thirty children; and as
they all consider themselves as far above the common people, they treat
every person with contempt, and even steal in the most open manner. By
the side of the river are a great number of human bones (more than thirty
skulls.) On enquiring the reason, I was informed that Mansa Numma always
inflicted capital punishments himself, and that the bones I saw were
those of criminals. I had reason to regret, that capital punishments
seldom or never extend to the real or reputed descendants of the King.
July 14th.--As soon as day dawned, struck the tents and loaded the asses.
The townspeople gathered round us in crowds. They had stolen during our
stay here four great coats, a large bundle of beads, a musket, a pair of
pistols, and several other things. Before we had advanced a musket shot
from the town (though we had one of the King's sons on horseback as a
protector), one of the townspeople carried away a bag from one of the
asses, containing some things belonging to one of the soldiers. The
King's son, Lieutenant Martyn, and myself rode after him, and were lucky
enough to come up with him, and recover the bag; but before we could
rejoin the coffle, another had run off with a musket that was fastened on
one of the loads.
We proceeded in this manner in a constant state of alarm; and I had great
reason to fear that the impudence of the people would provoke some of the
soldiers to run, them through with their bayonets. About two miles from
Maniakorro, as we were ascending a rocky part of the road, several of the
asses fell with their loads. I rode a little from the path to see if a
more easy ascent could not be found; and as I was holding my musket
carelessly in my hand, and looking round, two of Numma's sons came up to
me; one of them requested me to give him some snuff. Suspecting no ill
treatment from two people, whom I had often seen with the King, and at
our tents, I turned round to assure him that I never took snuff; at this
instant the other (called Woosaba) coming up behind me, snatched the
musket from my hand, and ran off with it. I instantly sprung from the
saddle and followed him with my sword, calling to Mr. Anderson to ride
back, and tell some of the people to look after my horse. Mr. Anderson
got within musket shot of him, but seeing it was Numma's son, had some
doubts about shooting him, and called to me if he should fire. Luckily I
did not hear him, or I might possibly have recovered my musket, at the
risk of a long palaver, and perhaps the loss of half our baggage. The
thief accordingly made his escape amongst the rocks, and when I returned
to my horse, I found the other of the royal descendants had stolen my
great coat.
I went and informed the King's son, whom we had hired as a guide, of what
had happened; and requested to know how I should act if any of the people
should steal from the baggage. He assured me that after what had
happened, I should be justified in shooting the first that attempted to
steal from the loads. Made such of the soldiers as were near me load
their muskets and be ready. The sky became cloudy, and by the time that
we had advanced about five miles from the town, we experienced a very
heavy tornado. During the rain another of Numma's sons snatched up and
run off with one of the soldiers muskets and a pair of pistols, which he
had laid down while he was reloading his ass.
We halted amongst the rocks and put off the loads, all very wet. Turned
the asses to feed, and cooked some rice, although it rained very heavily.
One of the negro boys gave the alarm that three people were driving away
our asses. I followed with some of our people: the thieves made their
escape amongst the rocks, but without carrying away any of the asses,
though they had untied the feet of three and fastened a fourth to a bush.
Collected the asses and began to load. Whilst we were loading one of the
asses strayed a little from the rest, about two hundred yards, and to my
astonishment a man came from amongst the rocks, took off the load, and
began to cut it open with his knife. Before any person could come at him,
he left the load and run up the rocks. Mr. Scott and one of the soldiers
fired at him, but did not hit him. Went on. Road very rocky. Told the
soldiers to shoot the first that took any thing from the baggage. Found
some of the asses and loads lying at the difficult places in the road,
and often two loads with only one half-sick soldier to guard them. Kept
in the rear, as I perceived they had a mind to take some of the loads and
asses. I saw the thieves peeping over the rocks, and making signs to
their comrades, who seemed very desirous of assisting us in putting on
our loads. Put one of the loads on my horse, and another on Mr.
Anderson's, and luckily cleared the difficult passes of the rocks by sun
set, without losing any thing, though surrounded by at least a dozen
experienced thieves. When we reached the bottom of the rocky pass, we
went on with more ease, and came up to the rest of the party about eight
o'clock. They had stopped for the night in the woods, and so were all our
clothes; [Footnote: It is thus in Mr. Park's MS. There seems to be some
omission.] and in fact we passed a very uncomfortable night amongst the
wet grass, and exposed to a very heavy dew.
July 15th.--Early in the morning proceeded, and went on very slowly in
the rear, by which means we were separated from the front. Horses loaded
as usual. When we reached the cultivated land, which surrounds the
village of Ganamboo, we came up to one of the soldiers, who informed us,
that a man habited as a slave had come from amongst the bushes, and
instantly seized on his musket and knapsack, which were fastened on the
top of his load. The soldier struggled with him for his musket, and
wrested it from him; on which the thief let go the knapsack, and
attempted to make off; but when he heard the soldier cock his piece,
expecting to be instantly shot, he threw himself down on the road and
roared out in the most pitiable manner. The soldier took a steady aim at
him, but unfortunately his musket flashed in the pan, and the slave
started up and ran in amongst the bushes.
Ganamboo is only a small walled village: it is situated about ten miles
East half North from Maniakorro.
July 10th.--Left Ganamboo, but the soldiers and asses were so much
fatigued, that we were forced to stop at Ballandoo (Dooty Mari Umfa)
during the night. We had the most tremendous storm of thunder and
lightning I ever saw. I was so confident that the tent would be struck
by the lightning, that I went to some distance to avoid the explosion of
our gunpowder.
July 17th.--Left Ballandoo at eight o'clock, and reached _Seransang_
about noon. All horses loaded; mine fell down under his load, and I was
forced to sit by him till an ass was sent from the halting place.
Seransang is a scattered but populous town, and the land is cleared
round it for a great distance. One of our best asses stolen during the
night.
July 18th.--Departed from Seransang, having shifted the loads so as to
have the horses free, in order to prevent theft. We had not travelled
much above a mile, when two suspicious people came up. One of them
walked slowly in the rear; and the other passed on, seemingly in great
haste. I desired Mr. Anderson to watch the one in the rear, whilst I
rode on at such a distance as just to keep sight of the other. The road
making a turn, he was concealed from me by the bushes, and took
advantage of this opportunity to carry away a great coat from a load
which was driven by one of the sick men. I fortunately got a view of him
as he was running off among the bushes, and galloping in a direction so
as to get before him, quickly came so near him that he leaped into some
very thick bushes. When I rode round, he went out at the side opposite
to me; and in this manner I hunted him amongst the bushes for some time,
but never losing sight of him. At last he run past a spreading tree, and
jumping back, stood close to the trunk of it. I thought I should
certainly lose him if I did not avail myself of the present opportunity.
I accordingly fired, and dropping my musket on the pummel of the saddle,
drew out one of the pistols, and told him if he offered to move, I would
instantly shoot him dead. "Do not kill me, white man," he exclaimed, "I
cannot run from you, you have broke my leg." I now observed the blood
streaming down his leg; and when he pulled up his cloth, I saw that the
ball had passed through his leg about two inches below the knee joint.
He climbed a little way up the tree, which was of easy ascent; always
exclaiming in a pitiable tone of voice, "do not kill me." Several of the
people belonging to the coffle, on hearing the shot fired, came running;
and amongst others the guide appointed us by Keminoom, who insisted that
I should instantly shoot the thief dead; otherwise he said I did not
fulfil the orders of his master, who had directed me to shoot every
person that stole from me. I had great difficulty in preventing him from
killing him, and was happy to recover the great coat, and leave the
thief bleeding amongst the branches of the tree.
We proceeded without further molestation till about three o'clock in the
afternoon, when it came on a tornado. During the rain one of the sick
had fallen a little behind, and four people seizing him, stripped off
his jacket. He followed them at a distance; and when they came up to Mr.
Anderson and myself, he called out to us to shoot one of them, as they
had taken his jacket. I had my pocket handkerchief on the lock of my gun
to keep the priming dry. When they observed me remove it, one of them
pulled out the jacket from under his cloak, and laid it on one of the
asses. Mr. Anderson followed them on horseback, and I kept as near him
as I could on foot, my horse being loaded. After following them about
three miles, they struck into the woods; and suspecting that they had a
mind to return and steal some of the loads from the fatigued asses in
the rear, I returned with Mr. Scott, and found that one of the soldiers
had lost his knapsack, and another his jacket. But from their
description, the robbers were not the same as had formerly passed.
Continued in the rear. When we came within a mile of the town of
Nummaboo, the road passes near some high rocks. The asses being a little
way before us, two of the robbers first seen came from amongst the
rocks, and were going towards the asses; but when they observed us
coming up, they attempted to slide off unobserved among the rocky. When
I called to one of them to stop and tell me what they were looking
after, they came near us; but as they had nothing of ours in their
possession, we could not stop them, and they accordingly passed to the
westward. Mr. Scott and I went and examined that part of the rocks where
we observed them come out, and were lucky enough to find a soldier's
coat, a camp kettle, and a number of other articles, which had probably
been their share of the booty; for I learned on my arrival at the town,
that the ass which carried the muskets belonging to the sick, had been
stopped by four people near these rocks, and six muskets, a pair of
pistols, and a knapsack taken away. To complete the business, J. Bowden,
one of the sick, did not come up; and we had little doubt but that he
had been stripped and murdered by these very people in the woods. We
likewise had a very good ass stolen during the night.
July 19th.--Having purchased an ass in lieu of the one stolen, we left
Nummaboo, which is a walled village, and proceeded onwards. Had two
tornadoes; the last, about eleven o'clock, wetted us much, and made the
road slippery. Two asses unable to go on. Put their loads on the horses,
and left them. Mr. Scott's horse unable to walk: left it to our guide.
At noon came to the ruins of a town. Found two more of the asses unable
to carry their loads. Hired people to carry on the loads, and a boy to
drive the asses. Past the ruins of another town at half past twelve,
where I found two of the sick, who had laid themselves down under a
tree, and refused to rise, (they were afterwards stripped by the
Negroes, and came naked to our tents next morning). Shortly after this,
came to an ass lying on the road unable to proceed with its load. Put
part of the load on my horse, which was already heavily loaded. Took a
knapsack on my back. The soldier carried the remainder and drove the ass
before him.
We arrived on the banks of the Ba Woolima at half past one o'clock. This
river is but narrow, not being more than fifty or sixty feet over; but
was so swelled with the rains as to be twenty feet deep at the place
where we proposed to cross it. Our first attempt was to fell a tree
close to the river, that by its fall would reach across the stream and
form a bridge: but after cutting down four, they all fell in such a
manner as to be of no use; for though the tops of one reached the rocks
on the farther shore when it fell, yet the violence of the current swept
it away. In this manner we fatigued ourselves till sunset, when we gave
up the attempt.
Observed the following emersion of Jupiter's satellites.
H. M. S.
Third satellite emerged by Watch M. S. 9 25 18
Watch too slow 1 55
First satellite emerged by Watch 9 36 10
Watch too slow 2 34
July 20th.--Altitudes taken for the time.
H. M. S. ° ' H. M. S. ° '
7 6 45 21 21 7 9 42 22 42
0 7 25 21 40 0 10 26 23 2
0 8 8 21 55 0 11 3 23 18
7 13 10 24 18 7 16 27 25 49
0 13 44 24 33 0 17 0 26 3
0 14 14 24 46 0 17 30 26 16
° ' "
Obser. Mer. Alt. 166 4 0
1/2 83 2 0
0 16 0
83 18 0
6 42 0
20 43 0
Longitude 5 0 13 W.
Latitude 14 1 0 N.
The passage of the river being the great desideratum, I proposed a raft
to be hauled from side to side with ropes; whilst the Mandingoes were
decidedly of opinion that nothing would answer our purpose but a bridge,
which they said they would complete by two o'clock. I set to work with
the carpenters to make a raft; but when the logs were cut into lengths,
we could not muster healthy people enough to carry them to the water
side. We were forced to give up the attempt and trust entirely to the
Negro bridge, which was constructed in the following manner. A straight
pole was cut to sound the depth of the river, and notches made on it to
shew the depth at different distances from the shore. Two straight trees
were now cut, and their tops fastened strongly together with slips of
bark. These were launched across the stream with the assistance of two
people, and a rope on the further side; the roots of the trees were
firmly fastened with ropes to the roots of the trees on each side of the
river. Along the upper side of these trees they planted a range of
upright forked sticks, cut correctly to the lengths on the sounding
pole. These upright forks supported two other trees tied as the first,
but which were not, like the first, permitted to sink into the water,
but were kept about a foot above the surface by means of the forks.
Another range of forks was placed a little farther up the stream, which
likewise supported two trees fastened as the above; the whole was
completed with cross sticks. The two trees first laid over, which were
permitted to sink in the water, served to prevent the stream from
running away with the forks whose roots sloped down the stream; whilst
the weight of the current pressed on and kept firm the roots of such as
were placed up the stream. A section of the bridge would have the
following appearance.
[Illustration:
A. Trees first laid across.
B. First range of forks.
C. Trees supported by first range.
D. Second range of forks.
E. Trees supported by ditto.
F. Cross sticks for walking on.
If the river was dried up, the structure would have somewhat of this
appearance.]
Our people being all so sickly, I hired the Negroes to carry over all
the baggage, and swim over the asses. Our baggage was laid on the rocks
on the East side of the river; but such was our sickly state that we
were unable to carry it up the bank. Francis Beedle, one of the
soldiers, was evidently dying of the fever; and having in vain
attempted, with the assistance of one of his messmates, to carry him
over, I was forced to leave him on the West bank; thinking it very
probable that he would die in the course of the night.
July 21st.--Hired Isaaco's people to carry the bundles up the bank, and
assist in loading all the asses. One of the soldiers crossed the bridge,
and found Beedle expiring. Did not stop to bury him, the sun being high;
but set out immediately. Country woody, but level. About half past ten
o'clock came to Mr. Scott lying by the side of the path, so very sick
that he could not walk. Shortly after Mr. Martyn laid down in the same
state. My horse being loaded, and myself, as usual, walking on foot and
driving an ass, I could give them no assistance. I came in sight of the
town of Mareena a little before twelve; and at the same time was happy
to see two of Isaaco's people coming back with two asses to take the
loads off the horses in the rear. Sent them back for Mr. Scott and Mr.
Martyn, and proceeded to the town. Some of the people, who had crossed
the river with us, had informed the people of Mareena of the treatment
we had experienced in passing from Maniakorro to the Ba Woolima, which
district is called Kissi; and withal had told the people that our coffle
was a Dummulafong, a thing sent to be eaten, or in English _fair game_
for every body. The inhabitants of Mareena were resolved to come in for
their share; they accordingly stole five of our asses during the night;
but felt themselves much disappointed next morning,
July 22d,--when they understood, that instead of proceeding to Bangassi,
we proposed to send forward a messenger to inform the king of the bad
treatment we had experienced. Three of them returned the asses they had
stolen, but the other two would not. About noon we loaded all the horses
and asses; and I hired two young men to carry forwards two trunks, the
load of one of the asses which was stolen. Bangassi is only six miles
distant from Mareena. It is a large town, fortified in the same manner
as Maniakorro; but is four or five times as large. Pitched our tents
under a tree to the East of the town.
July 23d.--Received a present from Serenummo, the King, of a fine
bullock and two very large calabashes of sweet milk; he likewise sent
the two asses which the people of Mareena had stolen. Took from our
baggage the following articles, and went with Isaaco to the King.
Bars.
To the King, amber No. 2 30
Ditto. No. 4 20
Barraloolos 30
Beads 30
Looking glasses 5
Balls and flints 2
-----
Bars 117
Mr. Anderson's musket.
Ditto sword.
Ditto pistols.
To the King's son, amber No. 4 5
Barraloolo 5
------
Bars 10
To the person who assisted in settling the palaver,
amber 10
To the good people in the town 10
To Isaaco's landlord for a goat 10
------
Bars 30
The town is large and populous, and is better fortified than even
Maniakorro. We found Serenummo seated in a sort of shade, surrounded by
only a few friends; orders having been given not to allow any person to
enter it. He enquired if I was the white man who had formerly passed
through the country, and what could induce me to come back again; with a
number of such questions. To all which I gave the best answers I could;
and then told him that I did not come to purchase slaves or gold; I did
not come to take any man's trade from him or any man's money; I did not
come to make money, but to spend it; and for the truth of these
assertions I could appeal to every person who knew me or had travelled
with me. I farther added, it was my intention at present to travel
peaceably through his kingdom into Bambarra; and that as a mark of my
regard for his name and character, I had brought a few articles which my
guide would present to him. Here Isaaco spread out on the floor the
articles before mentioned. The King looked at them with that sort of
indifference which an African always affects towards things he has not
before seen. However much he may admire them, he must never appear in
the least surprised. He told me I should have permission to pass; and he
would make his son take care of us till we arrived at Sego; but it would
be some days before he was ready. I told him I was anxious to be in
Bambarra, as I found my people very sickly; and if he would appoint me a
guide, I would esteem it a favour. In fact I knew before, that this son
proposed going to Sego with the annual tribute, which amounts to three
hundred minkallis of gold or thereabouts; but I knew that the gold was
not yet all collected, and that part of it would probably be bought with
the merchandize I had given him.
July 25th.--Bought two asses for fifty-six bars of amber. During our
stay at this town we were plentifully supplied with milk on moderate
terms. I always purchased two camp kettles full every morning for the
men, in hopes of recruiting them before we set forwards for the Niger;
but they still continue sick and spiritless. Corporal _Powal_ is
dangerously ill of the fever, and _M'Inelli_ is affected with the
dysentery to such a degree, that I have no hopes of his recovery. He was
removed yesterday to the shade of a tree at a small distance from the
tents; and not being brought near in the evening, he was very near being
torn to pieces by the wolves. They were smelling at his feet when he
awakened, and then set up such a horrid howl, that poor M'Inelli, sick
as he was, started up and came to the tents before the sentry could
reach the place where he had slept.
July 26th.--Corporal Powal died during the night. Buried him this
morning; two dollars and a half in his pocket, for which I am
accountable. Overhauled the ass-saddles, and adjusted the loads,
proposing to leave this to-morrow morning early.
° ' "
Observed mer. alt. Sun 168 26 0
------------
1/2 84 13 0
0 16 0
------------
84 29 0
------------
ZD. 5 31 0
D. 19 31 0
------------
Latitude 14 0 0
------------
July 27th.--The morning being rainy, we did not depart from Bangassi
till about nine o'clock. Left here M'Inelli. Paid the Dooty ten bars of
amber to purchase provision for him and give him lodging. Shortly after
leaving the town, three of the soldiers laid down under a tree, and
refused to proceed; their names _Frair, Thomson_, and _Hercules_. About
a quarter of a mile farther, James Trott, one of the carpenters brought
from Portsmouth, refused to go on, being sick of the fever. I drove on
his ass, and desired him to return to Bangassi. Found myself very sick
and faint, having to drive my horse loaded with rice, and an ass with
the pit saws. Came to an eminence, from which I had a view of some very
distant mountains to the East half South. The certainty that the Niger
washes the Southern base of these mountains made me forget my fever; and
I thought of nothing all the way but how to climb over their blue
summits.
Reached Nummasoolo at two o'clock. This has formerly been a large town;
but being destroyed by war some years ago, nearly three-fourths of the
town are in ruins. Before we had time to pitch the tent properly, the
rain came down on us, and wetted us all completely, both men and
bundles. This was a very serious affair to us, many of our articles of
merchandize being perishable. Slept very uncomfortably in wet clothes on
the wet ground. Troubled in the night with a lion; he came so near that
the sentry fired at him, but it was so dark that it was impossible to
take a good aim. All the asses pulled up the pins to which they were
fastened, and run together as near the men as they could. As the sick
soldiers before mentioned did not come up before sun-set, I concluded
they had all returned to Bangassi; and the Dooty's son coming up on
horseback, informed me that they had really returned to his father's
house, and wished to know what I meant to do respecting them. I told him
that I wished my people to be taken proper care of, and gave him ten
bars of amber for his care in coming to inform me of them. I likewise
put into his possession three strings of amber of forty bars each, and
told him how to dispose of them for the use of the sick. I likewise told
him that, if any of them should recover, if he would send a proper
person forward with them to Bambakoo, I would give him an Indian baft,
or ten bars of scarlet, which he preferred. At the same time I wrote the
following note to the men.
"DEAR SOLDIERS,
"I am sorry to learn that you have returned to Bangassi. I have sent in
charge of the bearer of this three complete strings of amber; one of
which will procure rice for forty days; the second will purchase milk or
fowls for the same time; and the third will buy provisions for you on
the road till you arrive at the Niger.
"Your's
"M. PARK."
July 28th.--Rained all day. Remained in the tent at Nummasoolo.
July 29.--Divided the men's clothes who were left behind amongst the
other men; many of them being in great want of clothes, and the nights
being now cold and damp. Found five dollars in J. Trott's knapsack, for
which I am accountable. Spread out the rice to dry; found it hot and
much damaged. Some people arrived from the East, who informed us that a
stream on the road, which is usually dry, was so much swelled by the
rain that no ass could cross it. Halted here during the day to dry the
different articles.
July 30th.--Departed from Nummasoolo. Was under the necessity of leaving
here William Allen sick. Paid the Dooty for him as usual. I regretted
much leaving this man; he had naturally a cheerful disposition; and he
used often to beguile the watches of the night with the songs of our
dear native land.
About five miles East of Nummasoolo passed the stream before mentioned,
flowing to the S.E. The water had subsided, and was only about eighteen
inches deep, but flowed very rapidly. Many asses fell, and had their
loads wetted. It likewise rained two hours on the march. Crossed a ridge
of hills through an opening. Road tolerably good except in two places.
We descended on the East side, and reached Surtaboo, a small ruined
village, about two o'clock. Here I learnt that the front of the coffle
had gone on to a village about four miles further; but the asses in the
rear being all very much fatigued, and lying down with their loads
frequently, I judged it prudent to halt till some fresh asses should be
sent to my assistance.