Such is the _reja_ thought, both then and now, to be the finest ever

made. The style is pure Renaissance. Two tiers of equal height consist

of four-and-twenty ornamented rails or balusters disposed, above,

between four columns; below, between four pilasters. An attic is upon

the cornice, and contains two central, semi-naked, kneeling figures

which support a large, crowned shield. This is surmounted by a bust of

God the Father, enclosed in a triangular frame, and raising the hand to

bless. On either side of the attic are S-shaped crests sustaining

circular medallions with the likenesses, in bold relief, of Christ and

Mary. Along the friezes are the legends; EGO SUM ALPHA ET [Greek:

omega]; EGO SUM LUX VERA; and ECCE ANCILLA DOMINI, together with the

words, referring to the artist, AB ANDINO, and the date A.D. MDXXIII.

The decorative scheme is spirited and delicate at once, whether we

observe it on the railing, pilasters, and columns, or on the horizontal

parts and members of the _reja_. The attic which surmounts the double

tier and cornice is finally surmounted by a gilt Saint Andrew's cross;

and the entire screen is lavishly painted and gilded throughout.

Here is a thing--almost a being--created out of iron, so intensely

lovely that the eye would wish to contemplate it to the end of time;

and, as we linger in its presence, if perchance the dead are privileged

to hear their earthly praises echoed in the silence of the tomb, surely

from his marble sepulchre Cristóbal de Andino listens to such praises at

this hour. For yonder, in the neighbouring parish church of San Cosmé,

beside a wife devoted and well-loved the great artificer is laid to

rest, where Latin words (although of idle purport while the _reja_ of

the Constable remains) are deep engraved to thus remind us of his

worth:--

CHRISTOPHORUS ANDINO EGREGIUS

ARTIFEX ET IN ARCHITECTURA OMNIUM

SUI SECULI FACILE PRINCEPS

MONUMENTUM SIBI PONENDUM LE

GAVIT ET CATERINA FRIAS EJUS

UXOR HONESTISSIMA STATIM MARITI

VOTIS ET SUIS SATISFACIENDUM B

ENIGNE CHRISTIANEQUE CURAVIT URNAM CU

JUS LAPIDES SOLUM AMBORUM OSSA TEGUNT

SED ADMONET ETIAM CERTIS ANNUI HE

BDOMADE CUJUSQUE DIEBUS SACRIFICIA

PRO EIS ESSE PERPETUO FACIENDA

But if these splendid _rejas_ of her temples constitute to-day a special

glory of this nation, her private balconies and window-gratings were in

former times, though from profaner motives, almost or quite as notable.

Between the sixteenth and the eighteenth centuries, few of the

foreigners who visited Spain omitted to record their admiration of these

balconies, crowded upon a holiday with pretty women. "Il y avoit," wrote

Bertaut de Rouen in 1659, "autant de foule à proportion qu'à Paris; et

mesme ce qu'il y avoit de plus beau, c'estoit que comme il y avoit des

balcons à toutes les fenestres et qu'elles estoient occupées par

toutes les dames de la ville, cela faisoit un plus bel effet que les

échaffauts que l'on fait dans les rues de Paris en semblables

rencontres."

[Illustration: XXV

_REJA_

(_Casa de Pilatos, Seville_)]

Pinheiro da Veiga, in his queer _Pincigraphia_, or "Description and

Natural and Moral History of Valladolid," written earlier in the same

century, and published twenty years ago by Gayangos from a manuscript in

the British Museum, is more plain-spoken than the Frenchman on the

various merits and peculiarities of the Spanish balconies and _rejas_.

"All of these churches have the most beautiful iron balustrades and iron

open-work doors (_cancelas_) that can be found in Europe, for nowhere is

iron worked so skilfully as here in Valladolid. These objects are made

by the Moriscos with turned balusters, foliage, boughs, fruits,

war-material, trophies, and other contrivances, which afterwards they

gild and silver into the very likeness of these metals. I say the same

of window-balconies; for nearly every window has its balcony. There are

in Valladolid houses up which one might clamber to the very roof from

balcony to balcony, as though these were a hand-ladder. So too from

balcony to balcony (for the distance from one to other is never greater

than a palm's breadth) one might climb round the whole Plaza. By reason

of this, we Portuguese were wont to say that if there were as many

thieves or lovers in Valladolid as in Portugal, verily both one and

other of this kind of folks would have but little need of hand-ladders.

Yet here the thieves content themselves with stealing by the light of

day, while as for the women (crafty creatures that they are!), they

perpetrate their thefts away from home; and, having all the day at their

disposal, prefer to thieve while daylight lasts, rather than pass the

night uncomfortably. To this I heard a lady of Castile declare, when one

of my friends, a Portuguese, petitioned her for leave to speak with her

at night across her _reja_: 'That would be tantamount to passing from

one _hierro_ to another _yerro_;[83] and in my house (which is also your

worship's) it would not look well for you to seem a window-climbing

thief.'"

[83] _Hierro_ means _iron_; _yerro_, a _fault, faux pas_. Thus glossed,

the somewhat feeble pleasantry or pun is able to explain itself.

[Illustration: XXVI

_REJA_ OF THE _CASA DE LAS CONCHAS_

(_Salamanca_)]

It is curious, in the foregoing narrative, to read of Morisco craftsmen

working as late as 1600, and as far north as Castile. Perhaps the notice

of Moriscos doing Spanish iron-work may be traced to certain

Ordinances of Granada, published about three-quarters of a century

before. On October 14th, 1522, the councillors of that town confabulated

very lengthily and seriously as to the damage caused by "balconies and

_rejas_ in the streets, fixed in the basements and the lower rooms of

houses, or projecting portals which extend beyond the level of the wall.

For we have witnessed, and do witness daily, numerous mishaps to

wayfarers, alike on horseback and on foot, whether by day or night,

because the highways, narrow in themselves, are rendered yet more narrow

by such balconies and _rejas_. Whereas in winter persons seeking to

escape the filth by keeping to the wall are thwarted, or at night-time

injured, by these _rejas_. Or yet in summer, when the waters swell, and

conduits burst and overflow the middle of the street, then neither can

they keep the middle of the way, nor pass aside (by reason of the

balconies aforesaid) to its edges."

Having regard to all these grievances, the councillors decreed that

"none of whatsoever order or condition shall dare henceforth to place,

or cause to be placed, about the lower floors or entrance of their

dwelling, _rejas_ or iron balconies, or anything projecting much or

little from the level of the wall. But all projections shall be set

three yards, not any less, above the street. If not so much, they shall

be set within the wall, on pain of a fine of ten thousand _maravedis_,

and five thousand _maravedis_ to the mason and the carpenter that shall

repair their fixing. Further, we order that all balconies and _rejas_

now at a height of less than the aforesaid three yards be taken away

within three days from the crying in public of these Ordinances."[84]

[84] These laws affecting balconies were not, or not as time went on,

restricted to Granada. "Nobody," prescribes the general Spanish

code in force in 1628, "shall make a balcony or oversailing part

to fall upon the street, nor yet rebuild or repair any that shall

fall."--Pradilla, _Suma de Todas las Leyes Penales, Canonicas,

Civiles, y destos Reynos_.

For this deplorable state of things a double influence was to blame;

namely, the oriental narrowness of the street, and also the elaborate

ornamentation, proceeding very largely from a northern Gothic and

non-Spanish source, of these annoying yet impressive gratings. Some of

them, sweeping the very soil, and boldly and fantastically curved, may

yet be seen at Toro. Those of Granada are no more. Indeed, not only have

the _rejas_ of the Spanish private house long ceased to show the

decorative cunning of the craftsman, but even in their present

unartistic form are largely limited to Andalusia. Yet even thus, they

seem to guard a typical and national air, mixed with a subtle,

semi-Mussulmanic poetry. Across them, while the term of courtship lasts,

the lover whispers with his mistress, oblivious of the outer world,

fixing his gaze within, until his sultaness emerges from the gloom, and

holds his hand, and looks into his eyes, and listens to his vow.

Therefore, in "April's ivory moonlight," beneath the velvet skies of

Andalusia, one always is well pleased to pass beside these children of

romantic Spain, warming the frigid iron with the breath of youth, and

hope, and happiness, and telling to each other a secret that is known

unto us all--at once the sweetest and the saddest, the newest and the

oldest story of all stories.

BRONZES

The earliest objects of bronze discovered in this country are

comparatively few. As in other parts of Europe, they consist mostly of

weapons, such as spear-heads and hatchets (which will be noticed under

_Arms_), or bracelets, necklaces, and clasps or brooches. Earrings

(_inaures_), brooches (_fibulæ_), and other objects of a similar purpose

dating from the Roman period have been discovered in Galicia, while

plates of the same alloy[85] which imitate a shell were used as personal

ornaments by the men and women of the ancient Spanish tribes.

[85] Le Hon reminds us, in _L'homme fossile_, that before the Iron Age

all bronzes of our western world contained one part of tin to nine

of copper.

The province of Palencia is a fertile field for archæological discovery.

Here have been found some curious clasps, intended, it would seem, to

represent the old Iberian mounted warrior, sometimes brandishing the

typical Iberian lance. The following is a sketch in outline of an

object of this kind, fashioned as clumsily and crudely as the cheapest

wooden plaything of our time:--

[Illustration]

Two parts--the figure of the horseman, and a four-wheeled stand on which

the warrior's steed is resolutely set--compose this comical antiquity.

The rider's only article of clothing is a helmet; while the horse,

without a saddle or a bridle, is completely nude. This toy, or table

ornament, or whatever it may be, was found not far from Badajoz, where

other prehistoric bronzes are preserved in the museum of the

province;[86] and Mr E. S. Dodgson says that in possession of an

Englishman at Comillas he has seen another bronze rider of primitive

workmanship, with the head of a wild boar under his left arm. Those who

are interested in the meaning of these early bronzes should consult

an article, _El jinete ibérico_, by Señor Mélida, published in Nos.

90-92 of the _Boletín de la Sociedad Española de Excursiones_.

[86] See Romero de Castilla, _Inventarios de los objetos recogidos en

el Museo Arqueológico de la Comisión de Monumentos de Badajoz_.

Badajoz, 1896. Plate xxvii. represents another of these objects.

[Illustration: XXVII

"MELEAGER'S HUNT"

(_Primitive Spanish Bronze_)]

We know that the use of Roman lamps grew to be general in this land--a

fact which justifies my noticing the specimens preserved in the museum

of Madrid; and more particularly so because their shape and general

character have been perpetuated through the Spanish Moors and Christians

of the Middle Ages till this very moment.

The Roman lamp, shaped somewhat like a boat by reason of the _rostrum_

or beakish receptacle for the wick, consisted of an earthenware or metal

vessel with a circular or oblong body and a handle, together with at

least one hole for pouring in the oil. The commonest material was

earthenware, and next to this, bronze. The lamp was either suspended by

a chain or chains, or else was rested on a stand. Plato and Petronius

tell us that the stand was borrowed from the rustic makeshift of a

stick, or the stout stem of a plant, thrust into the ground. As time

went on, the stem or stick in imitative metal-work was rendered more or

less artistic and ornate. But there was more than a single kind of

lampstand. The _lychnuchus_ ([Greek: lychnouchos]), invented by the

Greeks, held various lamps suspended from its branches, while, on the

other hand, the Roman _candelabrum_ supported but a solitary lamp upon

the disc or platform at its top extremity.[87] The island of Egina was

famed for the production of these discs, and Pliny tells us that the

decorated stem or _scapus_ was chiefly manufactured at Tarentum.

[87] Undoubtedly the use of the Roman _candelabrum_ was continued by the

Spanish Visigoths. "_Candelabrum_," says Saint Isidore, "_a

candelis dictum, quasi candela feram, quod candelam ferat_"

(_Originum_, book xx., chap. x.). The Spanish word _candela_ is

loosely used to-day for almost any kind of light or fire, or even

for a match; but an ordinary candle is generally called a _vela_ or

_bugía_ (_bougie_).

The Roman lampstands also varied in their height. When the stem was long

they stood upon the ground--a fashion we have seen revived in recent

years, and even where electricity replaces oil. When, on the contrary,

the stem was short, the stand was known as a _candelabrum humile_, and

rested on a table or a stool.

The Madrid Museum contains a remarkable bronze lamp in the form of an

ass's head adorned with flowers and with ivy. The ass is holding in its

mouth the _rostrum_ for the wick. The hole for the oil is shaped like a

flower with eleven petals, under one of which is the monogram M[dagger]R.

The back of this lamp consists of an uncouth human male figure, in a

reclining posture, wearing a Phrygian cap and holding the ass's head

between his legs.

[Illustration: XXVIII

A _CANDIL_

(_Modern_)]

Other lamps of bronze, including several of an interesting character,

are in the same collection. One of these represents a sea-deity; another

has its handle shaped like a horse's head and neck; and in a third the

orifice for the oil is heart-shaped, while the handle terminates in the

head of a swan.

There is also a series of three pensile lamps--two in the likeness of

the head and neck of a griffin, and the third in that of a theatrical

mask; as well as a candelabrum fourteen inches high, terminating beneath

in three legs with lions' claws (foreshadowing or repeating oriental

motives), and above in a two-handled vessel on which to place the lamp.

This vessel supports at present a fine _lucerna_ in the form of a

peacock.

Probably no people in the world have kept extant, or rather, kept alive,

their oldest forms of pottery or instruments for giving light more

steadfastly or more solicitously than the Spaniards. Their iron

_candil_[88] and brass _velón_ of nowadays (Pls. xxviii. and

xxix.)--the one of these the primitive lamp that hangs; the other, the

primitive lamp that rests upon a table or the ground--are borrowed with

but a minimum of alteration from the lighting apparatus of the ancient

Greeks and Romans, and possess, for all their coarse and cheap and

unpretentious workmanship, a subtle interest and elegance attributable

only to the inspiration of antiquity.

[88] "A small open lamp with a beak, and a hook to hang it, within which

is another of the same make that contains oil and a wick to give

light, commonly used in kitchens, stables, and inns."--Fathers

Connelly and Higgins, _Spanish-English and English-Spanish

Dictionary_. Swinburne wrote of these _candiles_:--"The Spaniards

delight in wine that tastes strong of the pitched skin, and of oil

that has a rank smell and taste; indeed, the same oil feeds their

lamp, swims in their pottage, and dresses their salad; in inns the

lighted lamp is frequently handed down to the table, that each man

may take the quantity he chooses."

[Illustration: XXIX

A _VELÓN_

(_Modern_)]

More than the shape of these old objects seems to have passed to modern

Spain--if any phase at all of Spanish life can ever justly be accounted

modern. The ancients had an almost superstitious reverence for a lighted

lamp, and were accustomed to declare that "_lucerna, cum extinguitur,

vocem emittit, quasi necata_"; "a lamp, on being put out, utters

a sound as though it were being murdered." Now, it may be a

coincidence--although I cannot but regard it as distinctly more than a

coincidence--that even at this day a large proportion of the

Andalusian people are markedly averse to blowing out a kindled match;

nor do they think it of good augury to be in a room where three

lights--candles, matches, or whatever they may be--are simultaneously

aflame. I have noticed, too, that, whether from utter carelessness or

whether from ancestral superstition handed down from Rome, one rarely

sees upon the staircase or the doorstep of a Spanish public building a

vesta that has been (if I may be allowed the term) extinguished

_artificially_.[89]

[89] Perhaps it is not foreign to my theme to add that the current name

in Spanish for an oil lamp is _quinqué_, from Quinquet, the

Parisian chemist who invented the _tuyau-cheminée_ a hundred and

odd years ago. The same word passes also into Spanish slang,

"_tener quinqué_"--_i.e._ to be quick-witted and perceptive.

In the Madrid Museum are several military bronze _signa_ which were

found in Spain and date from the Roman era, as well as a _vexillum_, or

one of the T-shaped frames on which the warriors of that people used to

hang their standards. One of these _signa_ is in the form of a wild

boar; another in that of a saddled and bridled horse. Beneath this

latter is the word VIVA and a cross, which shows that the object dates

from a period not earlier than the reign of Constantine.

It is strange--or rather, would be strange in any country that had been

less constantly afflicted both with civil and external warfare--that

hardly anything remains of all the bronze artistic objects manufactured

by the Spanish Moors. Poets of this race have sung of gold and silver

fountains, door-knockers, and statues that adorned the buildings of

Cordova. In many of these instances the hyperbolic gold and silver of

the writers would undoubtedly be bronze. Al-Makkari quotes an Arab poet

who extols in passionate terms Almanzor's dazzling mansion of Az-zahyra.

"Lions of metal," sang this poet, "bite the knockers of thy doors, and

as those doors resound appear to be exclaiming _Allahu akbar_" ("God is

great"). Another bard describes the fountains of the same enchanted

palace. "The lions who repose majestically in this home of princes,

instead of roaring, allow the waters to fall in murmuring music from

their mouths. _Their bodies seem to be covered with gold_, and in their

mouths crystal is made liquid.

"Though in reality these lions are at rest, they seem to move and, when

provoked, to grow enraged. One would imagine that they remembered their

carnage of past days, and bellowing turned once more to the attack.

"When the sun is reflected from their _bronze_ surface, they seem to be

of fire, with tongues of flame that issue from their mouths.

"Nevertheless, when we observe them to be vomiting water, one would

think this water to be swords which melt without the help of fire, and

are confounded with the crystal of the fountain."

[Illustration: XXX

BRONZE LION

(_Found in the Province of Palencia_)]

Figures in bronze, of eagles, peacocks, swans, stags, dragons, lions,

and many other creatures were set about in garden and in hall, to

decorate these splendid palaces of ancient Cordova.

A specimen of this class of objects is a bronze lion of small dimensions

(Plate xxx.) found not many years ago in the province of Palencia, and

believed to date from the reign of Al-Hakem the Second of Cordova. It

belonged for some time to the painter Fortuny--a diligent and lucky

hunter of antiquities,--and was subsequently purchased in 1875 by M.

Piot. The modelling and decoration of this beast, especially the

mannered and symmetrical curls which are supposed to form its mane, are

quite conventional and strongly reminiscent of Assyrian art, such as

pervades the various lions rudely wrought in stone and still existing at

Granada; whether the celebrated dozen that support and guard the

fountain in the courtyard of the Moorish palace,[90] or else the

greater pair of grinning brutes proceeding from the ruins of the palace

of Azaque (miscalled the Moorish Mint), which may be noticed squatting

with their rumps towards the road, beside the garden entrance to the

Carmen de la Mezquita.

[90] Swinburne fell into a comical error concerning these. "In the

centre of the court are twelve ill-made lions _muzzled_, their

fore-parts smooth, their hind-parts rough, which bear upon their

backs an enormous bason, out of which a lesser rises."--_Travels

through Spain_, p. 180.

This little bronze lion measures about twelve inches high by fourteen

inches long. The legs and part of the body are covered with a pattern

representing flowers. The mane is described by comma-shaped marks. The

tail, bent not ungracefully along the animal's back, is decorated with a

kind of plait through nearly all its length. The eyes are now two

cavities, but seem in other days to have contained two coloured stones

or gems. Upon the back and flanks is a Cufic inscription which says,

"_Perfect blessing. Complete happiness._"

[Illustration: XXXI

BRONZE STAG

(_Moorish. Museum of Cordova._)]

Mussulman historians have described, in terms of cloying praise, the

"red gold animals contrived with subtle skill and spread with precious

stones" which Abderrahman placed at Cordova upon the fountains of his

palaces. "Rivers of water issued from the mouth of every animal, and

fell into a jasper basin." The words "red gold" are patently an oriental

term for bronze. In view of this, and of the fact that the lion of

Palencia is hollow-bellied, with his mouth wide open for ejecting water,

and with a tail of cunning craftsmanship, which would avail, on being

rotated, to produce or check the current of the "liquid crystal," we may

conclude that it was intended both to form a part of, and to decorate a

Moorish fountain of old days, and is the kind of beast "with precious

stones for eyes" so often and so ecstatically lauded by the Muslim

writers.

Similar to the foregoing object, and dating from about the same period,

is a small bronze stag (Pl. xxxi.) in the provincial museum of Cordova.

It is believed to proceed originally from the famous palace (tenth

century) of Az-zahra, and used to be kept, some centuries ago, in the

convent of San Jerónimo de Valparaiso.

The museum of Granada contains some interesting Moorish bronzes, found

on the site of the ancient city of Illiberis, abandoned by its occupants

on their removal to Granada at the beginning of the eleventh century.

The most remarkable of these discoveries are pieces of a fountain, a

small temple (Plate xxxii.), an _almirez_ or mortar (Plate xxxiii.),

similar to one (not mentioned by Riaño) which was discovered at Monzón,

and a few lamps. The fragments of a fountain end in the characteristic

Assyrian-looking lions' heads, with lines in regular zones to represent

the eyes and other features. One of the lamps (Pl. xxxiii.) is far

superior to the rest. Notwithstanding Riaño's assertion that all of

these antiquities are "incomplete and mutilated," this lamp is well

preserved, and still retains, secured by a chain, the little metal

trimming-piece or _emunctorium_ of the Romans. The small bronze temple

is sometimes thought (but this hypothesis seems rather fanciful) to be a

case, or part of a case, designed for keeping jewellery. The height of

it is two-and-twenty inches, and the form hexagonal, "with twelve small

columns supporting bands of open work, frescoes, cupola, and turrets; in

the angles are birds" (Riaño).

[Illustration: XXXII

BRONZE TEMPLE

(_Moorish. Museum of Granada_)]

The most important object in this substance now extant in any part of

Spain is probably the huge and finely decorated lamp of Mohammed the

Third of Granada (Pl. xxxiv.), called sometimes "the lamp of Oran,"

from a mistaken belief that it had formed part of the booty yielded by

this city after her capture in 1509 by Cardinal Jimenez de Cisneros.

The material of this lamp is bronze, possibly provided by the bells of

Christian churches taken and pillaged by the Moors. It has four parts or

tiers of varying shape, delicately wrought in open-work, and reaching a

height of nearly seven feet in all. The third and largest tier,

corresponding to the shade, is in the form of a truncated pyramid, and

shows a different design on each of its four sides. The lamp bears

several inscriptions, interrupted here and there through breakage of the

metal. The longest of these legends is interpreted as follows:--

The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 1 (of 3) · 第 8 / 14 段