RED.
KERMES, COCHINEAL, LAC-DYE, MADDER.
_KERMES._
Kermes, or Kerms, from which is got the "Scarlet of Grain" of the old
dyers, is one of the old insect dyes. It is considered by most dyers
to be the first of the red dyes, being more permanent than cochineal
and brighter than madder. In the 10th century it was in general use in
Europe. The reds of the Gothic tapestries were dyed with it, and are
very permanent, much more so than the reds of later tapestries, which
were dyed with cochineal. Bancroft says "The Kermes red or scarlet,
though less vivid, is more durable than that of cochineal. The fine
blood-red seen at this time on old tapestries in different parts of
Europe, unfaded, though many of them are two or three hundred years
old, were all dyed from Kermes, with the aluminous basis, on woollen
yarn."
Kermes consists of the dried bodies of a small scale insect, _Coccus
ilicis_, found principally on the ilex oak, in the South of Europe. It
is said to be still in use in Italy, Turkey, Morocco and other places.
William Morris speaks of the "Al-kermes or coccus which produces with
an ordinary aluminous mordant a central red, true vermilion, and with
a good dose of acid a full scarlet, which is the scarlet of the Middle
Ages, and was used till about the year 1656, when a Dutch chemist
discovered the secret of getting a scarlet from cochineal by the use
of tin, and so produced a cheaper, brighter and uglier scarlet."
Kermes is employed exactly like cochineal. It has a pleasant aromatic
smell which it gives to the wool dyed with it.
The following recipe for its use is from an old French dye book:--
20 lbs. of wool and ½ a bushel of bran are put into a copper with a
sufficient quantity of water, and suffered to boil half-an-hour,
stirring every now and then. It is then taken out to drain. While the
wool is draining the copper is emptied and fresh water put in, to
which is added about a fifth of sour water, four pounds of Roman Allum
grossly powdered and two pounds of red Tartar. The whole is brought to
boil, and that instant the hanks are dipped in, which are to remain in
for two hours, stirring them continually. When the wool has boiled two
hours in this liquor, it is taken out, left to drain, gently squeezed
and put into a linen bag in a cool place for five or six days and
sometimes longer. This is called leaving the wool in preparation.
After the wool has been covered for five or six days, it is fitted to
receive the dye. A fresh liquor is then prepared, and when it begins
to be lukewarm, take 12 oz. of powdered Kermes for each pound of wool
to be dyed, if a full and well coloured scarlet is wanted. If the
Kermes was old and flat, a pound of it would be required for each
pound of wool. When the liquor begins to boil, the yarn, still moist,
(which it will be, if it has been well wrapped in a bag and kept in a
cool place) is put in. Previous to its being dipped in the copper with
the Kermes, a handful of wool is cast in, which is let to boil for a
minute. This takes up a kind of scum which the Kermes cast up, by
which the wool that is afterwards dipped, acquires a finer colour. The
handful of wool being taken out, the prepared is put in. The hanks are
passed on sticks continually stirring and airing them one after the
other. It must boil after this manner an hour at least, then taken out
and placed on poles to drain, afterwards wrung and washed. The dye
still remaining in the liquor may serve to dip a little fresh parcel
of prepared wool; it will take some colour in proportion to the
goodness and quality of the Kermes put into the copper.
_Another Recipe for Dyeing with Kermes._--The wool is first boiled in
water along with bran for half-an-hour (½ bushel of bran for 20 lbs.
of wool) stirring it from time to time. Drain. Next boil for 2 hours
in a fresh bath with a fifth of its weight of alum and a tenth of
Tartar. Sour water is usually added. It is then wrung, put into a bag
and left in a cool place for some days. The Kermes is then thrown into
warm water in the proportion of 12 oz. to every pound of wool. When
the liquor boils, a handful of waste wool is thrown in, to take up the
dross of the Kermes, and removed. The wool is then put in and boiled
for an hour. It is afterwards washed in warm water in which a small
quantity of soap has been dissolved. Then washed and dried.
"To prepare wool for the Kermes dye, it is to be boiled in
water with about ⅕ of its weight in alum, and half as
much of Tartar, for the space of two hours and afterwards
left in the same liquor four or five days, when being
rinsed, it is to be dyed in the usual way with about 12
oz. of Kermes for every pound of wool. Scarlets, etc.,
given from Kermes, were called grain colours, because that
insect was mistaken for a grain. Wool prepared with a
nitro-muriatic solution of tin (as is now practised for
the cochineal scarlet) and dyed with Kermes takes a kind
of aurora, or reddish orange colour."--Bancroft.
_COCHINEAL_
The dried red bodies of an insect (_Coccus Cacti_) found in Mexico are
named Cochineal.
RECIPES FOR DYEING.
1). SCARLET FOR WOOL.
For each pound of wool put 20 quarts of water. When the water is warm,
add 2 oz. Cream of Tartar, 1½ drachms of powdered Cochineal. When the
liquor is nearly boiling, put in 2 oz. of Solution of Tin (which the
Dyers call Composition for Scarlet). As soon as it begins to boil, the
wool, which has been wetted, is dipped and worked in the liquor for an
hour and a half. A fresh liquor is then prepared, 1½ oz. of starch is
put in and when the water is warm 6½ drachms of Cochineal. When nearly
boiling 2 oz. of solution of tin is put in. It must boil, and then the
wool is put in and stirred continually for 1½ hours. It is then taken
out, wrung and washed. The Scarlet is then in its Perfection.
2). COCHINEAL FOR COTTON.
Prepare 50 lbs. of cotton with 15 lbs. Sumach, 10 lbs. Alum. Dye with
2¼ lbs. of Cochineal. Leave for 24 hours in the Sumach; lift; winch 2
to 3 hours in a hot solution of Alum; wash in two waters, then boil up
the cochineal; put off the boil, enter cotton & winch till colour be
full enough; then wash and dry.
3). ORANGE RED FOR WOOL.
1). Mordant wool with Alum.
2). Dye in a bath of weak Fustic. Wash and Dry.
3). Put into cold water, Cream of Tartar, Tin, Pepper and
Cochineal. When warm, enter the wool and boil.
4). PINK WITH COCHINEAL FOR WOOL.
(For 60 lbs. wool). 5 lbs. 12 oz. alum. Boil and immerse wool for 50
minutes. Then add 1 lb. Cochineal and 5 lbs. cream of tartar. Boil and
enter wool while boiling, till the required colour is got.
5). SCARLET FOR WOOL.
(For 100 lbs.) 6 lbs. of Tartar are thrown into the water when warm.
The bath is stirred briskly and when hot ½ lb. powdered cochineal is
added and well mixed. Then 5 lbs. of clear solution of Tin is
carefully mixed in. When it is boiling the wool is put in and moved
briskly. After 2 hours it is taken out, aired and washed.
The second bath. When the water is nearly boiling 5¾ lbs. of powdered
cochineal is put in. A crust will form on the surface which will open
in several places. Then 13 to 14 lbs. of solution of tin is poured in.
After this is well mixed, the wool is entered and stirred well. Boil
for an hour, then wash and dry.
These two processes can be done together with good result. The colour
can be yellowed by fustic or turmeric. More tartar in the second bath
increases the colour. The scarlet may be brightened by common salt.
Alum will change the scarlet to crimson, the wool being boiled in a
solution of it for one hour.
6). CRIMSON FOR WOOL.
Mordant with 2½ oz. alum and 1½ oz. tartar for every lb. of wool. Then
dye with 1 oz. cochineal. Solution of tin is sometimes added. Also
salt.
7). VIOLET FOR WOOL.
Mordant with 2 oz. alum for 1 lb. wool. Dye with 1 oz. cochineal and 1
oz. of solution of iron in which the wool is kept till the shade is
reached.
8). SCARLET WITH COCHINEAL, FOR WOOL.
(For 100 oz. clean wool). Put 6 oz. Oxalic acid, 6 oz. Stannous
Chloride (Tin Crystals), 8 oz. powdered cochineal in a bath containing
about half the quantity of water required to cover wool. Boil 10
minutes, then add sufficient water to cover wool. Enter the wool, work
well in the dye and boil for ¾ hour, after which take out the wool,
wash and dry.
9). PURPLE, FOR WOOL.
(For 2½ lbs. wool). Mordant with Bichromate of Potash, 1½ oz. in 10
gallons of water. Dye with 6 to 8 oz. cochineal. With alum mordant (4
oz.) a crimson colour is got. With tin mordant (2 oz.) a scarlet. With
iron mordant (2 oz.) a purplish slate or lilac.
10). SCARLET, FOR WOOL.
Mordant the wool for 1 to 1½ hours with 6% stannous chloride and 4%
cream of tartar. Wash. Dye with 5 to 12% of ground cochineal for 1 to
1¼ hours. To dye the wool evenly, enter it in both the mordant and the
dye when the water is warm, and raise gradually to boiling.
11). SCARLET, FOR WOOL.
Fill the dye bath half full of water, add 6 to 8% of Oxalic acid, 6%
of stannous chloride and 5 to 12 per cent. ground cochineal, boil up
for 5 to 10 minutes, then fill up the dye bath with cold water.
Introduce the wool, heat up the bath to the boiling point in the
course of ¾ to 1 hour and boil ½ hour. Washing between mordanting and
dyeing is not absolutely essential. The addition of tartar up to 8 per
cent. increases the intensity and yellowness of the colour.
In order to obtain bright yellow shades of scarlet it is usual to add
a small proportion of some yellow dye to the bath.
Wool mordanted with 10 per cent. of Copper sulphate and dyed in a
separate bath with cochineal gives a reddish purple, or claret colour.
With ferrous sulphate as mordant very good purplish slate or lilac
colours can be got. Mordant and dye in separate baths. Use 8 per cent.
of ferrous sulphate and 20 per cent. of tartar.
12). CRIMSON FOR SILK.
Mordant the silk by working for ½ hour in a concentrated solution of
alum, then leave to steep over night. Wash well and dye in a fresh
bath containing 40 per cent. of cochineal. Enter the silk at a low
temperature and heat gradually to boiling.
13). SCARLET FOR SILK.
After boiling and washing, the silk is first slightly dyed with yellow
by working it for ¼ hour at 50°C., in a weak soap bath containing
about 10 per cent. of Annatto; it is then well washed. Mordant the
silk by working it for ½ hour, then steeping it over night in a cold
solution of 40 per cent. of nitro-muriate of tin. Wash and dye in a
fresh bath with a decoction of 20 to 40 per cent. of cochineal and 5
to 10 per cent. cream of tartar. Enter the silk at a low temperature
and heat gradually to boiling. Brighten in a fresh bath of cold water,
slightly acidified with tartaric acid. Good results can also be
obtained with the single bath method with cochineal, stannous chloride
and oxalic acid.
With the use of iron mordants very fine shades of lilac may be
obtained on silk with cochineal.
_LAC DYE._
Like Cochineal and Kermes, Lac is a small scale insect, _Coccus
lacca_. It is found in India, Burmah and other Eastern countries; it
was introduced into England in 1796.
The method of dyeing with lac is very much the same as with cochineal;
it yields its colour less readily however, and should be ground into a
paste with the tin solution employed and a little hydrochloric acid
and allowed to stand for a day before using. It is said to be a faster
dye than cochineal, but is often used in combination with it, being a
fuller colour though not so bright.
A good fast scarlet is produced by the following recipe:--For 100 lbs.
wool. 8 lbs. lac, previously ground up with part of the tin spirits, 5
lbs. cochineal, 5 lbs. tartar, 20 lbs. tin spirit.
_MADDER._
Madder consists of the ground up dried roots of a plant, (Rubia
tinctorum) cultivated in France, Holland, and other parts of Europe,
as well as in India. Madder is not much used for silk dyeing, but for
wool, linen and cotton it is one of the best dyes. It is also used
largely in combination with other dyes to produce compound colours.
When used for cotton the colour is much improved by boiling in a weak
solution of soap after the dyeing. The gradual raising of the
temperature of the dye bath is essential in order to develop the full
colouring power of madder; long boiling should be avoided, as it dulls
the colour. If the water is deficient in lime, brighter shades are got
by adding a little ground chalk to the dye bath, 1 to 2 per cent.
Berthollet distinguishes two kinds of madder red on cotton, one of
which is given in No. 4. The other is the well-known Turkey red or
Adrianople red, a very difficult and complicated dye, but one of the
most permanent dyes known. Madder reds are said to be not so beautiful
as those from Kermes, lac or cochineal, but my experience has been
that with care, the finest reds can be got with madder.
Birch leaves are used in Russia to improve the colour of madder. They
are added to the dye bath.
RECIPES FOR USE OF MADDER.
1). RED FOR WOOL.
For 100 oz. (6¼ lbs.) wool.
Mordant 8 oz. Alum and 2 oz. Tartar. Boil the wool in the mordant for
one hour and wash in cold water. Dye: 50 oz. Madder. Enter the
mordanted wool, raise to boil and boil gently for one hour. Wash
thoroughly in cold water and dry. If the water is very soft, a small
quantity of lime or chalk added to the dye bath improves the shade.
Alder bark or alder leaves added to the dye bath darkens the colour.
The best results are obtained when the dye bath is maintained just
under the boiling point.
2). REDDISH BROWN FOR WOOL.
Mordant with 3% bichromate of potash and dye with Madder. Good
results can be got by the single bath method. (See page 14, No. 3.)
3). BROWNISH RED FOR WOOL.
Mordant the wool with 6 to 8 per cent. of alum and 5 to 7 per cent. of
tartar. Dye with 60 to 80% of Madder. Begin the dyeing at about
40°C., and raise the temperature of the bath gradually to 80° to
100°C., in the course of an hour, and continue the dyeing about an
hour. Wash and dry. The colour can be brightened by adding a small
proportion of stannous chloride to the mordant or it can be added to
the dye bath towards the end of the dyeing.
Brighter shades are got by keeping the temperature at about 80°C., and
prolonging the dyeing process. After dyeing, the colour can be
brightened by working the wool at 70°C., in a weak soap bath, or a
bath containing bran.
4). BRIGHT RED FOR COTTON.[16]
(For 22 lbs.). The cotton must be scoured, then galled in the
proportion of 1 part of nut galls to 4 of cotton, and lastly alumed in
the proportion of 1 of alum to 4 of cotton. To the solution of alum is
added one twentieth of solution of soda ley (½ lb. ordinary soda to 1¾
pints water). It is then dried slowly and alumed again. Then dried
slowly again. The more slowly the drying takes place the better the
colour. The cotton is then ready to be dyed.
Heat the water of the dye bath as hot as the hand can bear; mix in
6½ lbs. madder and stir carefully. When thoroughly mixed, put in the
cotton & work for ¾ hour without boiling. Take it out & add about a
pint of soda ley. The cotton is then returned to the bath and boiled
for 15 to 20 minutes. It is then brightened by passing it quickly
thro' a tepid bath with a pint of ley in it. It is then washed and
dried.
5). BRIGHT ORANGE RED FOR WOOL.
For 1 lb. scoured fleece, mordant with 4 oz. alum and 1 oz. cream of
tartar. Dissolve the mordant, enter the wool and raise to boiling
point and boil for 1 hour. Allow the wool to cool in the mordant. Then
wring out and put in a linen bag in a cool place for 4 or 5 days. Soak
8 oz. madder over night in water and boil up before using. Put into
dye bath, enter wool when warm, bring gradually to the boil and boil
for ¾ hour.
6). BRIGHT RED FOR WOOL.
Mordant 1 lb. wool with 5 oz. of Alum, and 1 oz. of Tartar; leave to
drain and then wring out; put into a linen bag and leave in a cool
place for several days. (The wool should still be damp when taken out
to dye; if it is dry, damp with warm water). If the Tartar is
increased a cinnamon colour is got. Dye with ½ lb. of madder for every
pound of wool. The water should not boil, but kept just below boiling
for an hour; then boil up for 5 minutes before taking out and washing.
With sulphate of copper as a mordant, madder gives a clear brown
bordering on yellow (one part of sulphate of copper and 2 parts of
madder).
7). RED FOR SILK.
The silk is mordanted over night with alum, by steeping it in a cold
concentrated solution; wash well and dye in a separate bath with 50
per cent. of madder. Begin dyeing at a low temperature and gradually
raise to 100°C. The addition of bran tends to give brighter colours. A
small quantity of Sumach could be added if a fuller colour is wanted.
After dyeing, wash and then brighten in a boiling solution of soap, to
which a small percentage of stannous chloride has been added.
Afterwards wash well.
By mordanting with Copperas, either alone or after an Alum bath,
violet and brown shades can be got.
8). RED WITH MADDER FOR WOOL.
Pound up carefully without heating some roots of madder. Mordant the
wool with Alum, adding some cayenne pepper. Dye with the madder,
adding cream of tartar to the dye bath. Birch leaves improve the
colour.
9). MADDER RED FOR COTTON.
Take a piece of white cotton, about 20 yards. Melt in some water 1 lb.
of potash; boil the cotton in this for 20 minutes, then rinse it. Put
4 lbs. of the best Sumach in the copper and fill it up with boiling
water, and boil for 10 minutes. Put to cool and work the cotton well
in this for an hour. Take it out and give it a scalding hot alum and
sugar of lead bath for half-an-hour; rinse in two waters; put it back
in the sumach for half-an-hour; then alum again for 20 minutes. Rinse.
Put 2 lbs. of madder into hot water and boil gently for a few minutes.
Put in the cotton, work well and boil for half-an-hour gently. After,
give it a hot alum for 20 minutes, and rinse. Put 1 lb. fresh madder
in the copper, put in the cotton and boil for 20 minutes. Then wash.
10). RED FOR COTTON.
Scour the cotton. Then gall in the proportion of 1 of gall nuts to 4
of cotton. Then alum in the proportion of 1 of alum to 4 of cotton,
with a little soda and tartar added. Dissolve the alum, etc., and put
in the cotton, and boil half-an-hour. Cool down and ring out. Then dry
slowly. Repeat the aluming. Put madder into water and when hot dip in
cotton for ½ hour, keeping it under boiling point, then boil up for ¼
hour and wash. Dry.
11). MADDER RED FOR COTTON & LINEN.
(For 1 lb.) 1st Mordant.--Boil 1 oz. ground gall nuts in 5 quarts of
water for ½ hour. Put in thread and soak for 24 hours. Dry.
2nd Mordant.--Melt 2 oz. of alum, ⅛ oz. of Turmeric, and ½ oz. of
gum Arabic in two quarts of water, over a slow fire. Let cool. Melt 1
oz. soda, 1 oz. arsenic, ¼ oz. potash (crushed) in a bath, and when
dissolved, add the alum, turmeric and gum Arabic mixture. Stew ½ hour.
Put in thread, which should be covered with the liquid, and let it
soak for 24 hours. Dry.
1st. Bath.--Put 2 oz. Madder into 10 quarts of water, heat up to
boiling but do not let it boil. Put in thread and stir well for 1
hour.
2nd. Bath.--Put 3 oz. Madder in 10 quarts of water; treat as in first
bath, from which the thread should be taken and put straight into the
2nd. bath. Stir for 1 hour. Soak for 24 hours; wash and dry.
3rd. Bath.--Put 3 oz. Madder in 10 quarts water; repeat the process
described for 2nd. bath. The thread should be washed in cold water &
lastly in warm water in which a little soft soap has been dissolved.
When drying do not wring the skeins as this is likely to make the
colour uneven.
There are a few other red dyes of minor importance which should be
mentioned.
_BRAZIL WOODS_, various leguminous trees, including lima, sapan and
peach wood, dye red with alum and tartar, and a purplish slate colour
with bichromate of potash. They are not fast colours.
Some old dyers used Brazil wood to heighten the red of madder.
_CAMWOOD_, _BARWOOD_, _SANDALWOOD or SANDERSWOOD_, are chiefly used in
wool dyeing, with other dye woods such as Old Fustic, and Logwood for
browns. They dye good but fugitive red with bichromate of potash, or
alum.
_RED from LADIES BEDSTRAW._
The crushed roots of this plant are used. Mordant the wool with either
alum or bichromate of potash. The red with alum is an orange red, with
chrome, a crimson red. Make the dye bath with 30 to 50% of bedstraw
roots and boil the mordanted wool in it for an hour.
_RED for COTTON._
For 10 lbs. cotton boil 3 lbs. Sumach, let the cotton steep in this
over night: wring out and work in red spirits (1 gill to a gallon of
water). Wring out and wash well. Boil up 3 lbs. limawood (or Brazil or
Peach wood) and 1 lb. fustic. Work the cotton in this ½ hour, as warm
as the hand can bear; add 1 gill red spirits and work 15 minutes
longer. Wash.
FOOTNOTE:
[16] This recipe can also be used for linen, but linen takes the
colour less easily than cotton, and should have the various operations
repeated as much as possible.