CHAPTER XV

KAVA AND THE SIVA

The principal difference between the dance in Samoa and in the

other island groups of the South Pacific is that in the former it is

an institution and in the latter--in recent times--an incidental. In

years gone by the dance was an integral part of the life of every

South Sea people, but through missionary and governmental

influence it has practically been killed everywhere but in the Samoas.

That the missionary alone could never have accomplished this the

instance of these islands shows, for while the missionary's influence

is no less potent there than in a number of other groups, the dance

has survived his active opposition through the fact that the American

government has not put its official bans upon it, as have the British

in Fiji and the French in the Societies and Marquesas. The _siva_ is

as much a part of Samoan life today as it was in the time of La

Perouse and the first missionaries, and as one of the few unaltered

survivals of ancient times it is sincerely to be hoped that it will

remain so.

As I have pointed out in writing of the dance in Tahiti, it is only

on the rarest of occasions that one may see anything approaching

the "real" _hula_ in that island, and this is also true of the ancient

dances of Hawaii, the Marquesas, Tongas, Fijis and all of the other

South Sea islands. This is partly due to their having been repressed

as immoral, and partly to the fact that, as the years go by, there are

fewer and fewer natives who can perform the intricate movements

of the old dances. In Samoa, however, there is no evidence of the

decadence of this traditional adjunct of native expression, though

certain of the grosser features of the _siva_ are no longer seen

except in out-of-the-way interior villages. This is just as well,

perhaps, for it is these particular features of the dance that have

brought it into disrepute in other South Sea groups and ultimately

resulted in governmental interference. It is these so-called indecent

movements of the _siva_ upon which the Samoan missionaries have

based their opposition to their dance, and through their gradual

elimination at a time that a gradual broadening of the missionary

mind is also apparent, it is not impossible that a still beautiful and

uncommercialized siva may yet exist peacefully in the islands by

the side of those who have hitherto steadfastly endeavoured to

extirpate it as a thing accursed.

The interesting thing about the _siva_--and this is also true of the

Samoan himself--is that it is as it always was. Certain movements may

not be danced in certain villages out of deference to the feelings of

the missionary or because the native himself has modified his ideas

respecting their propriety, but, by and large through the islands, the

_siva-siva_ remains as it has ever been, perhaps the most beautiful

and perfect interpretative dance given to the world by any race in

history. The visitor who is entertained by a chief of Tutuila, Upolou

or Savaii with _kava_ drinking and a _siva-siva_ may know that it was

not in materially different fashion that, a century and a quarter ago,

the Samoans of that time received the officers of the _Astrolabe_ and

_Boussle_ in the great round of feasting which preceded the

unfortunate events leading up to the tragedy of Massacre Bay. The

public offering of the women to the god-like visitors on this occasion

was a thing without parallel, perhaps, in modern history, but except

in that one particular the Samoan _kava_ and dancing ceremonies

for distinguished visitors has probably undergone no change

whatever.

It is impossible to write of the _siva_ without mentioning _kava_,

and as the drinking of this almost distinctively Samoan beverage is

an invariable prelude to every dance, reception, parley or any native

gathering of whatever character, it may be in order here to tell

something of what it is and of how it is prepared and partaken.

The _kava_ plant belongs to the pepper family. It is bushy in

appearance, and the leaves, dark green and heart-shaped, are about

the size of one's two hands. The stems are knotted and crooked, with

joints every two or three inches. The plant is useful only between its

third and fifth years, the wood being too pulpy before that time, and

afterwards, too pithy and tasteless. Both stems and root are used in

the preparation of the beverage, these being cut into lengths of three

or four inches and split longitudinally to secure even drying in the

sun. Properly prepared, it is light and pithy and of a whitish colour.

The _kava_ plant grows in nearly every island of the South Pacific,

and two or three generations ago the beverage from it was in universal

use throughout those latitudes. Today it is only drunk by the Samoans

and here and there in Fiji. Why it should have fallen into disuse

elsewhere is not entirely clear, for except in endeavouring to

discourage the preparation of the root by the old method of chewing,

neither officials nor missionaries have actively opposed _kava_ drinking.

The fact that the use of _kava_ has ceased most completely in those

groups in which, like the Marquesas, Societies and Hawaiias, the

natives have become strongly addicted to the use of alcoholic stimulants,

either of their own or foreign manufacture, would point to the growing

use of the latter as the probable reason for the loss of taste for the

former. Although the Fijian native is far from being a teetotaler, the

unusual power of the missionary in that group has undoubtedly

prevented him from giving himself up to the toddy habit as completely

as have his cousins of the Marquesas and Societies. The Samoan drinks

less, and seems to care less for alcoholic stimulants than any other

South Sea native, but whether this is due to the universal use of _kava_,

or whether the universal use of _kava_ is due to the fact that the toddy

habit has never attained a foothold in his island, would be hard to say.

The fact remains that the Samoan is a keen, clean liver, and that his

_kava_, if it has not been an actual factor in developing his splendid

physical powers, at least has been responsible for nothing comparable

to the mental and moral havoc wrought by the insidious toddy in the

other islands.

Although the Samoan drinks _kava_ on any and all occasions that he

can get some one to make it for him, yet the special function of that

beverage is ceremonial. It figures in all formal gatherings, but is,

perhaps, most indispensable to the reception of guests, on which

occasions the prescribed ceremonial procedure varies no whit in the

houses of the highest and the lowest. The moment the visitors to a

native house are seated, the guest of highest rank, or the one whom

it is desired especially to honour, is presented with three or four

pieces of dried kava. These he perfunctorily inspects, pronounces

prime, and tosses to the _taupo_--the official virgin of the village

whose duty it is to look after the entertainment of strangers--who

forthwith commences the preparation of the drink. It is at this

point in the original _kava_ ceremony that the _taupo_ proceeded

to masticate the bits of root and stem to a proper consistency to be

dissolved in water, but this part of the "recipe" is no longer followed

amongst the enlightened natives of the coastal villages, to whom the

risks of spreading infection by such a practice have been thoroughly

brought home. It is customary now to grind the root to a powder

between two flat stones, although on two or three occasions I have

seen ordinary perforated graters used. When thoroughly reduced,

the pulverized root is thrown into the _kava_ bowl and covered

with cold water from a calabash which is held ready by one of the

handmaidens.

The _kava_ bowl is an important factor in the ceremony. It is hewn

from a single piece of wood, and is usually between eighteen inches

and three feet in diameter and from three to five inches deep. It

preserves its equilibrium with the aid of a periphery of legs running

around the outside, these varying in number from four on a small bowl

belonging to a person of no especial consequence to ten on the bowl

of a chief. They are made on the island of Savaii, there being no trees

of a suitable nature on any of the other islands of the group. Just as a

pipe gathers "colour" from smoking, so does a _kava_ bowl accumulate

a rich layer of golden enamel through frequent use. A deeply enameled

bowl, on account of the traditions associated with it, is almost

priceless. The true _kava_ bowl is severely plain and unornamented; a

carved or "beaded" border is a sure sign of manufacture for the tourist

trade.

When there is sufficient water in the bowl to make enough drink for all

present, the _taupo_ dips in with both hands and begins squeezing the

ground _kava_ through her fingers in order that all of the strength

will pass into solution. This operation continues until the floating

particles are tasteless when dabbed on the tip of the tongue of the

_taupo_, who then proceeds with the straining. This is accomplished

with the aid of a sheaf of fibre from the inner bark of the hibiscus

tree, called a _fau_. This contrivance, which is very similar in form

to that invaluable aid-to-beauty called a "switch," though somewhat

complicated to manipulate, seems to accomplish its purpose very

thoroughly. The fibres are swept around the surface of the liquid in

the bowl and brought down from all sides at once to a bunch at the

deepest point, where it is folded over onto itself in such a manner as

to gather and hold all of the root particles with which it comes in

contact. After the liquid is squeezed back into the bowl, the _fau_

is passed by the _taupo_ to an attendant who shakes out the fibre

with a single quick flirt under a raised coco-leaf curtain. Three or

four repetitions of this operation clear the liquid in the bowl, and

after giving the _fau_ a final shake--a sinuous spiral swish above her

head--the _taupo_ casts it aside and informs the host that the _kava_

is ready.

Upon this announcement the host passes the news on to the guests by

striking the palms of his hands together with a long stiff-armed swing.

This is at once taken up by every one in the house, and for a few

moments there is a round of dignified and somewhat perfunctory

clapping. Then the _Tulafele_ or "Talking Chief," who acts as a sort of

toast-master, launches into a flowery speech extolling the virtues of the

guests, which he concludes by calling for an _epu_ of _kava_ for the

visitor first in rank. The _epu_, a cup made of the half of a coconut

shell, is then held over the bowl by the head handmaiden, whose duty

it is to act as cup-bearer. The _taupo_ takes up the _fau_ with another

flourish, sops it into the _kava_ and squeezes out the saturated fibres

over the waiting _epu_. Holding this head high, the bearer advances

across the mats to the personage designated by the _tulafele_ and puts

it, with a scooping gesture, into his hand. As the proffered cup is

accepted, she steps backward to her original station beside the _taupo_.

The guest, on receiving the _kava_, bows to the Chief and other

dignitaries, and, with the word "_man'uia_,"--the equivalent of

"To your health"--drinks it at a single draught. The _epu_ is then

returned to the bearer by spinning it across the mat to her feet.

The _Tulafele_ now calls the name of the guest next in rank, and the

ceremony is repeated, this continuing until all have been served.

There are no "second helpings."

The genealogy and rank of all Samoans are so well known that,

amongst themselves, there is no question in determining the order of

precedence in drinking. With foreigners present, however, the matter

of rank is a complicated one. Unless a native of supreme rank, like

Maatafa of Apia, who was nearer our idea of a king than any other

Samoan, is to be served, it is customary to offer the first drink of

_kava_ to the most distinguished of the visitors, the next to the

highest chief, the next to the second most important visitor, and so

by alternation. When the almost sacred Mataafa was present, however,

etiquette required that he be served first, and always from his own

special _epu_, out of which no other was ever allowed to drink.

The hitting off of the correct order of foreign visitors, especially

where several different nationalities are present, is a trying task

for the _tulafale_, and, except on very formal occasions where inquiry

is made beforehand, many amusing "reversals" occur. Several times,

probably because I happened to bulk somewhat more largely against

the sky-line--the Samoan, unless he stops to think, is almost sure to

place brawn before brain--I was presented with the initial _epu_ of

_kava_ in advance of the Commodore, and at one informal little party

the both of us were passed over in favour of our gigantic bo'sun, Gus,

who, with the easy, indolent assurance of the Viking from whom he was

descended, was leaning against the post of the house, a passive

spectator. On this, as on all other occasions, however, the Commodore

and I had the consolation of being served before the Mater and Claribel.

The Samoan is not exactly a Turk in the matter of women, but he takes

care that they never stand in his own light.

The _tulafale_ never calls a guest by his name in designating him for a

drink of _kava_, but by some euphemistic appellation that is intended

to be, and usually is, complimentary. The Commodore was always some

variation of "The Great One Who Comes in His Own Ship." The Mater

was usually something akin to "The Bright New Moon of the Great One,"

but once, when we brought her in to a _talolo_ at Apia after a stormy

passage from Tutuila, she displayed so much individuality as to inspire

the observant _tulafale_ to bestow a title all her own. "Take the _kava_

to 'The Beautiful One Who is Sad Because of the Rocking of the Boat,'"

ordered that autocrat of the _epu_, the translation of which so tickled

the risibilities of the ever-resilient Mater that the look of sadness

passed and the title lost its point forthwith. Claribel drew down an

assorted lot of titles, among them being "The Watchful One," "The

White _Taupo_" and, one day when she was wearing her _pince nez_,

"The Four-Eyed One."

Whenever the Commodore was present--except on the two or three

occasions when they mixed us up and served me first--I was always

hailed as some kind of satellite of the "Great One." When appearing

independently I was served under a number of nondescript titles, the

most notable among which was one bestowed at a small village on the

leeward side of Tutuila which I visited with my friend, Judge Gurr. The

first cup on this occasion was presented to the Judge, the second to

the village chief, and as the third was filled the single magic word,

"Tusitala!" fell from the lips of the "Master of Ceremonies."

"A cup to the memory of the beloved Stevenson!" I told myself, a

possible explanation of which flashed to my mind with the dawning

recollection that the village, Fauga-sa, under a slightly altered name,

had figured as the scene of one of the novelist's best stories. Athrill

with interest, I waited expectantly, keen on missing no detail of the

pretty observance, when, lo!--the brown Hebe of the _kava_ cup came

mincing across the mat and, with a sweep and flourish of her graceful

arm, held the _epu_ poised in front of my vacantly grinning face.

'"What's this for? Do they take me for a reincarnation of Stevenson?" I

cried excitedly to the Judge, quite forgetting in the excitement of the

moment what the etiquette of the occasion demanded.

"Drink the _kava_!" he admonished in an anxious undertone, not a little

embarrassed by so flagrant a _faux pas_ on the part of one for whom he

was standing sponsor; "I'll explain in a moment."

I drained the coco shell of its spicy contents at a gulp, twirled it

back to the _taupo_, and, as the latter began filling it for the next

drink, turned inquiringly to my companion.

"No, they didn't confuse you with Stevenson," said the Judge dryly.

"I merely explained to the _tulafale_, when he asked, that you were a

scribbler of sorts, and because the nearest equivalent to that in the

Samoan language is a 'Teller of Tales,' he hailed you as _Tusitala_

when your turn for the _kava_ arrived."

* * * * *

Every Samoan child begins to practise some of the simpler _sivas_ as

soon as it is old enough to notice what is going on about it, and

although only the _taupos_ and their maids are schooled in the more

intricate movements of the dance, the girls of almost any household can

furnish a very diverting evening's entertainment on a moment's notice.

For these to refuse to dance for a stranger, even a passing wayfarer

who has dropped in for an hour's rest, would be as bad as refusing him

a drink of _kava_, and that is unthinkable. _Kava_ and the _siva_ are

the Samoans' symbols of hospitality, from the lowest to the highest.

The beautiful symmetry of development which characterizes all Samoan

girls--and especially the _taupos_--is due to the fact that their only

exercises are dancing, walking, swimming and paddling, in all of which

the muscles are used in long, easy, sweeping movements. In no Samoan

dance is there anything comparable to the stiff-muscled toe-work and

the frozen posturing of the modern French ballet, nor yet anything

similar to the frenzied acrobatics of the Russian. There is abandon at

times--reeling, rollicking, riotous abandon--but the motion of it flows

and undulates and ripples in fluent rhythm like the current of a swift

but unbroken river rapid. Who has not seen the _siva_ has not realized

the full meaning of the expressions "Poetry of Motion" and "Enchantment

of Gesture." The grace of it is so complete, so perfect, so satisfying,

that one cannot but feel that the Samoan, having failed to develop the

arts of painting and sculpture, has concentrated all of his being in

expressing his soul through his body.

The _siva_ is natural because it expresses things that are natural. The

heave of the sea, the rush of the surf, the rocking of a canoe, the

swaying of the trees, the ripple of a stream, the movements of swimming

and paddling and the ecstasies of love, all of which are reflected in

the _siva_, are things of the dancers' daily life. The gyrations of the

_première danseuse_ on the tips of her toes suggests nothing of heaven

or earth, but because the Samoan has taken his inspiration from himself

and his surroundings, his dances are beautiful and normal. And as the

dance, so the dancer. Because the movements of the _siva_ are natural,

the body of the _taupo_ is natural. She is one fluent ripple of lithe

flexibility from toe-tip to finger-tip, with no suggestions of the

knotted muscles which disfigure the back and legs of a ballet dancer.

On the occasion of great feasts or celebrations, where large crowds

are present, it is customary to dance the _siva_ out-of-doors and in

the daytime. The performers at such times are usually numerous and as

spectacles the dances are, perhaps, more striking than the in-door

_sivas_. This does not compensate, however, for the fact that most of

the seductive charm of movement is lost in the glare of the sunlight,

for what in the flickering torch or lamp-light is subtle allurement, in

the daytime becomes bald suggestion. To catch the spirit of the _siva_,

then, one should see it by torchlight or moonlight, or in a blending of

them both.

On formal occasions the _siva_ is danced at the conclusion of the

_kava_ ceremony. At these times there is usually a battery of

deep-toned wooden drums provided, and to the pulsing throb of these

and the sounding slaps of open palms upon bare thighs, the _siva_

begins. The opening number is almost invariably a "sitting-down" dance,

which is led by the _taupo_ with a flanking of three or four of her maids

on either side. For the first few moments it strikes you only as queer,

the odd posturing of the garlanded, cross-legged figures, with their

weavings and inter-weavings of arms and the rhythmic writhings of

the glistening brown bodies. But presently it is as though the pulse

of your being is beginning to beat to the throb of the drumming, and

there comes a feeling of having breathed the seductive atmosphere of

oil-steeped gardenia blossoms since the dawn of time. Unconsciously

your hands begin striking upon your not unresponsive duck-clad thighs

in unison with the blows of your neighbours, instinctively you try to

blend your tremulous hum with their chesty chanting, and presently

you have caught the spirit of the _siva_, and begin to yield yourself to,

then to delight in, and finally to exult in its subtle seductions.

Then you realize that every muscle, every fibre, every nerve, every

drop of blood in the gleaming red-bronze figure in the penumbra of the

lamp glow is dancing. Then you know that the pirouette of that shapely

chorus lady who entranced you so that last night at the Winter Garden

was only a kick, a thrusting out of a snugly-stockinged, well-turned

calf. But here where a member is moved it is dancing on its own account

as it goes; there is motion within motion, and still more motion within

that motion. Those gently swaying knees are only beating time to the

throb of the drums, but in that rippling run of plastic muscles beneath

the glistening skin there is a message that not the sprightliest and

plumpest of Broadway favourites could kick across the foot-lights in a

whole evening.

But the "sitting" _sivas_ are essentially dances of the arms; and never

were seen such arms as in Samoa. Plump without being fat, muscled

without being muscular, all contour, softness and dimples, no fitter

or fairer instruments of physical expression were ever fashioned. The

_taupo_ takes the lead and her motions are followed by the others as

though reflected in mirrors. Now the arms are fluttering out to one

side like twin streamers whipping in the wind, now they are pressed

close together along the side as though wielding a paddle, now they

are upraised as in supplication, now opened in invitation, now thrown

out in rebuff. The firmly-moulded breasts twinkle out and disappear

again behind the swishing flower garlands and the froth of flying arms.

[Illustration: THE SITTING _Sivas_ ARE ESSENTIALLY DANCES

OF THE ARMS]

[Illustration: "NEVER WERE SEEN SUCH ARMS AS IN SAMOA"]

The lamp glow flashes on the glistening undulant bodies, high-light and

shadow playing hide-and-seek in the dimples of cheek and shoulder and

bosom as they bend and sway to the drone of the drums. Swift lances

of light dart across thigh and shoulder, fluttering pennons of light

streak down the tremulous arms, coruscant streamers of light shimmer

along the lacquered leaves of the garlands. It is a poem of light and

motion, the incarnation of a transcript from a volume of ancient verse.

Describe the _siva_! Not till I've proved my right to attempt it by

painting the lily and gilding refinéd gold. It is a perfect thing of

its kind, and that is enough to know.

So far as I know the Samoans do not attempt anything in the way of

mimetic dances on the elaborate scale of those I have described as

"staged" in the ancient crater in Tahiti. They do, however, have dances

descriptive of harvesting coconuts, canoe races and swimming, while

"duel" dances, in which the performers go through the motions of combat

with native war knives, are features of nearly every _siva_. The Samoan

is no less ready than the Tahitian to take advantage of the theatric

effects at his disposal, and in the "standing" dances no _taupo_ ever

fails to make the most of the allurement of flitting in and out of

patches of moonlight or torchlight and piquing the interest of the

audience by pretending to reveal more of her charms when sheltered by

the translucent curtain of the shadows.

My one most haunting memory of South Sea dancing is of the

"swimming" _siva_ as performed by a tantalizing minx of a _taupo_ in

the ghostly half-light of a grotto on the leeward shore of Tutuila. With

a single native boy to act as guide and interpreter, I was proceeding by

canoe and on foot from Judge Gurr's plantation at Mala-toa to Leone,

on the opposite side of the island, to witness a game of native cricket.

Wet, cramped and tired from three hours of steady bailing with my

camera case in a dilapidated "outrigger" which had threatened to

disintegrate at every lurch, we landed late in the afternoon at a tiny

hamlet near the west end of the island and sought the Chief's house

for rest and refreshment. Adept in the art of reviving flagging warriors,

an elderly dame--the duenna of the _taupo_--took my tired head in her

motherly lap after the native custom, made a few passes along neck

and shoulder muscles with her soft magnetic fingers, and I dropped off

into a deep sleep which was not broken till a round of clapping

announced that _kava_ was ready. I had heard of the magic of

_loma-loma_ in Hawaii, but this was my first opportunity to verify the

claim that an hour of sleep induced by it was equal to an ordinary

night's rest.

Feeling refreshed and fit but still drowsy, I called to Tofa to put

my things together and get ready to take the road to Leone as soon

as the _kava_ drinking was over, hoping by a prompt start to avoid

being caught in the bush after nightfall. The boy heard, but did not

move from his Buddha-like pose against the rose-violet flare of the

sunset.

"Fanua say that she will make swimmin' _siva-siva_ on beach by'n'by if

you stop tonight," he remarked inconsequentially, with his eyes fixed

dreamily where the distant peaks of Upolou were thinning in the

evening haze. "Fanua ver' fine gal."

"Who's Fanua?" I queried sleepily, beginning to drowse again as the

magic fingers renewed their caressing pressure on my brow.

"Fanua _taupo_ this villige. Ver' fine gal," Tofa replied, with the

suspicion of a smile lurking at the corners of his handsome month.

My sleepy gaze wandered across to the mistress of the _kava_ bowl.

Surely that was not a "ver' fine gal," I told myself. I blinked and

looked again. She was middle-aged and fat. Then I rubbed my eyes hard

and tried to recall where I had seen that broad, good-natured face

before. Ah--the duenna whose lap held my head when I dropped off to

sleep! But how could that be when her lap was still under my head and

her fingers stroking my temples? Perhaps she had a twin. I gave my eyes

a final dig and turned them upwards. A lady's lap is not the point of

vantage that a connoisseur would choose from which to get the most

favourable view of her face, but--yes, Tofa undoubtedly was right.

Fanua was certainly a "ver' fine gal," quite the finest I had seen in

all these "Isles of Fair Women."

"We will start for Leone at sunrise," I directed Tofa, and sat up and

emptied the proffered _kava_ cup according to the dictates of Samoan

etiquette.

It seems that the duty of _loma-loma_-ing the brows of tired

wayfarers is a duty of the _taupo_ which takes precedence even of

_kava_-making, so that on the arrival of the hastily-summoned

Fanua--I being then asleep--the transfer of laps was made, the

duenna substituting as drink-mixer.

We pooled the contents of my knapsack and the chiefly larder and

dined sumptuously on canned salmon, breadfruit-_pate-de-foie-gras_

sandwiches, boiled taro, shrimps and bananas. This over, we smoked

cigarettes--mine, all of a three-day supply--and when darkness had

fallen, guided by a hunchback with a torch, set out for the dancing

place by the sea. We did not stop on the smooth crescent of beach, as

I had anticipated, but continued along to where it joined a cliffy

promontory and gave way to a jumble of crags and rocks, against

which dashed the full force of a tumultuous surf.

The night was starry but moonless. By the light of the sputtering

candle-nut brand in the hand of the dwarf and an occasional spurt of

phosphorescence from a shattering wave, we followed the well-worn

path up among the crags to where it seemed to come to an end at an

opening in the rock scarcely larger than the man-hole of an underground

conduit. The hollow mutter of the sea welled up from the cavernous

depths, but without pausing the hunchback dropped confidently in,

showering his knotted bronze shoulders with sparks in the quick

descent. Just long enough for me to clamber down beside him he held

the torch, then sent it spinning, trailed by a comet-like wake of

embers, over a ledge to be doused in the water which plashed below. In

Stygian darkness, I was listening to the soft thuds of the feet of my

companions as, one by one, they dropped down from above, when

suddenly there came a crash against the seaward side of the grotto,

a swirling rush of phosphorescent water rushed in and, against the

fluttering waves of blue-green light that played upon the rocky walls,

appeared the lithe brown body of Fanua weaving in the undulating

sinuosities of the "swimming" _siva_.

I had just time to note that the lovely little _taupo_, unadorned

by official head-dress or garlands, was dancing only in a scant

_lava-lava_ of _tappa_ which encircled her waist in a precarious

fringe, when the light died down and the swimming _siva_ became for

the moment a dusky silhouette against the jagged patch of star-studded

purple which marked the seaward opening of the grotto. Then a soft

hand sought mine and I was led through the darkness to where a thick

stack of smooth mats had been piled, upon which the members of our

little party were beginning to settle at their ease. As I lounged back

luxuriously upon the springy pandanus, Tofa came wriggling in on one

side to "make talk" for me, as he explained, while on the other gentle

fingers--the mates of the guiding ones that still held my right hand

in their unrelinquishing clasp--patted my cheek to soft and iterated

murmurs of "_alofa oi_," "I like you."

"Tell the young lady on my right," I began to Tofa--and then, all

unheralded, the wonder befell.

Fanua was still swimming in graceful pantomime across the purple

star-patch, when a crash louder than the previous one sounded against

the outer wall and the mouth of the opening was blotted by the

advancing wave. Again came the flutters of tremulous light upon the

dark walls, quickly to be followed by a deep-mouthed gurgling growl

from immediately beneath the ledge on which we reclined. Then there

was a quick rush of damp air in the grotto, and, with a great "whouf!"

a bright fountain of phosphorescent spray was projected from a small

hole in the rocky floor immediately in front of the swaying _taupo_.

Evidently this phenomenon, which occurred only with the largest

waves, had been awaited by both audience and dancer. Rhythmic smiting

of thighs began as the growls broke out below, and to this, and the

beating of a drum improvised from a rolled mat, Fanua leapt into the

jet of spouting golden mist and, for the four or five seconds during

which it played, lashed out in that climacteric movement of the

swimming _siva_ in which the dancer is supposed to be riding the crest

of a rushing comber. Flailing arms and flying hair represented the

eddying foam, while quick, jerking forward movements of the shoulders

gave the suggestion of impulse to a body that never moved from the

heart of the floating cloud of luminous mist. One supreme flutter of

tremulous movement, rippling up from the toes and running out at the

finger tips as a series of waves of motion pulse down a shaken rope,

told that the swimmer had slid from her wave-crest to the waters of the

still lagoon. The jet died down as the pressure from below was released

by the receding wave, but the swaying body, lined with glittering

runlets of pale phosphorescence, continued to vibrate in silhouette

across the star-gleams shot from the patch of heavens beyond the

grotto's seaward mouth.

The jet of spray was due to the presence of a "blow-hole" in the

grotto. Under the ledge which we occupied was another cave--a cavern

within a cavern--and when the latter was filled by the wash from a

wave the compressed air forced a jet of spume up through the small

vent opening into the main grotto. The unusual brightness of the

luminous fountain was due, doubtless, partly to the darkness and

partly to the fact that a heavy scum of phosphorescence had

accumulated in the lower cavern.

[Illustration: FANUA, WHO DANCED THE SWIMMING _Siva_

BY THE LIGHT OF THE PHOSPHORESCENT WAVES]

[Illustration: DANCER WITH HEAD KNIFE]

Fanua reeled on through some of the quieter movements of the swimming

_siva_ in the weird blue-green glow of the half-dozen waves that came

before another one big enough to start the "blow-hole" spouting arrived

again. As the latter gave its premonitory growl, the shadow of a second

figure appeared beside her and Tofa announced that "Fanua now dance

'Shark-he-chase-her' _siva-siva_."

Into the jet of golden mist launched "shark" and "swimmer" as the

fountain began to play, weaving about each other in the movements of

flight and pursuit. The "shark" darted and dashed and strove to seize,

and the "swimmer" ducked and doubled and eluded, all within the circle

of the drifting particles of glowing spray. Under, over and around each

other they floated like frightened gold-fish in a globe, arms, legs

and bodies weaving evanescent webs of shimmering brightness but never

seeming to touch. Till the last luminous puff from the "blow-hole" they

danced thus, and then, as the flickering jet died low, there came a

ringing shriek, the lambent light streaks of the reeling bodies seemed

to meet and mingle, and--whether by accident or intent I could not

tell--went plunging over the ledge into the receding welter of light

below.

My gasp of consternation was not echoed by the rest of the company.

Most of them were laughing and chattering as though the "plunge to the

depths" was the regular finale, and Tofa seemed to think that his laconic

comment of "He shark he take her," was all that the occasion called for.

And so it proved. Before another jet had spouted there came two soft

thuds on the floor of the ledge, while a ripple of silvery laughter and a

shower of dewy drops from a couple of vigorously shaken heads told

that "shark" and "swimmer," having circled around through the surf to

the beach and dropped down to the grotto through the back entrance,

were waiting for the cavernous growl from beneath to sound the cue

for the next number.

* * * * *

As in its sister dance, the _hula_, there always comes a stage in

the _siva_ which is not subject to the restraining influence of the

presence of dignitaries, where even impressionistic description must

cease, so on this occasion I have deemed it meet that the "dead-line"

should be drawn at the finale of the "Shark-he-chase-her" number. I

trust I have recorded enough, however, to make it clear that Tofa's

suggestion to stay over and see that "ver' fine gal," Fanua, dance the

swimming _siva_ was not an unwarranted one.

In the Track of the Trades The Account of a Fourteen Thousand Mile Yachting Cruise to the Hawaiis, Marquesas, Societies, Samoas and Fijis · 第 15 / 21 章