CHAPTER XXXIV.

Eighteen years had elapsed, full of eventful history--especially the

last ten--since Carson had renounced the business of trapping, and of

late there had been an almost irrepressible longing once more to try his

skill at his old employment, in company with others who had been, with

himself, adepts at the business. Accordingly he and Maxwell, by a great

effort, succeeded in collecting sixteen more of their old companions,

and taking care to provide themselves abundantly with all the

necessaries for such a service, and with such added articles of comfort

as the pleasurable character of the excursion dictated, they started,

with Carson at the head of the band, "any one of whom would have periled

his life for any other, and having voted that the expedition should be

one for hard work, as when they trapped for gain long ago," they dashed

on across the plains, till they came to the South Platte, and upon its

well remembered waters, formed their camp and set their traps, having

first apprised themselves, by the "signs," that the beaver were

abundant. Indeed, so long ago had trapping gone into disuse, that the

hunt proved successful beyond their anticipations, and they worked down

this stream, through the Laramie plains to the New Park, on to the Old

Park, and upon a large number of the streams, their old resorts, and

returned to Rayedo with a large stock of furs, having enlivened the time

by the recital to each other of many of the numberless entertaining

events which had crowded upon their lives while they had been separated.

Would not the reader like to have made this excursion with them, and

witnessed the infinite zest with which these mature and experienced men

entered again upon what seemed now to them the sport of their earlier

years? They made it, as much as possible, a season of enjoyment. One of

the party had lassoed a grizzly, but, finding it inconvenient to retain

him, he had been shot, and bear steaks, again enjoyed together, had been

a part of the Fourth of July treat they afforded their visitors, the

Sioux Indians. As we have but little further opportunity, we will quote

Fremont's description of the Mountain Parks, for the sake of giving the

reader an idea of the locality of this last trapping enterprise of Kit

Carson:

"Our course in the afternoon brought us to the main Platte River, here a

handsome stream, with a uniform breadth of seventy yards, except where

widened by frequent islands. It was apparently deep, with a moderate

current, and wooded with groves of large willow.

"The valley narrowed as we ascended, and presently degenerated into a

gorge, through which the river passed as through a gate. We entered it,

and found ourselves in the New Park--a beautiful circular valley of

thirty miles diameter, walled in all round with snowy mountains, rich

with water and with grass, fringed with pine on the mountain sides below

the snow line, and a paradise to all grazing animals. The Indian name

for it signifies "_cow lodge_," of which our own may be considered a

translation; the enclosure, the grass, the water, and the herds of

buffalo roaming over it, naturally presenting the idea of a park, 7,720

feet above tide water.

"It is from this elevated _cove_, and from the gorges of the surrounding

mountains, and some lakes within their bosoms, that the Great Platte

River collects its first waters, and assumes its first form; and

certainly no river has a more beautiful origin.

"Descending from the pass, we found ourselves again on the western

waters; and halted to noon on the edge of another mountain valley,

called the Old Park, in which is formed Grand River, one of the

principal branches of the Colorado of California. We were now moving

with some caution, as, from the trail, we found the Arapahoe village had

also passed this way. As we were coming out of their enemy's country,

and this was a war ground, we were desirous to avoid them. After a long

afternoon's march, we halted at night on a small creek, tributary to a

main fork of Grand River, which ran through this portion of the valley.

The appearance of the country in the Old Park is interesting, though of

a different character from the New; instead of being a comparative

plain, it is more or less broken into hills, and surrounded by the high

mountains, timbered on the lower parts with quaking asp and pines.

"We entered the Bayou Salade, (South Park,) and immediately below us was

a green valley, through which ran a stream; and a short distance

opposite rose snowy mountains, whose summits were formed into peaks of

naked rock.

"On the following day we descended the stream by an excellent buffalo

trail, along the open grassy bottom of the river. On our right, the

bayou was bordered by a mountainous range, crested with rocky and naked

peaks; and below it had a beautiful park-like character of pretty level

prairies, interspersed among low spurs, wooded openly with pine and

quaking asp, contrasting well with the denser pines which swept around

on the mountain sides.

"During the afternoon, Pike's Peak had been plainly in view before us.

"The next day we left the river, which continued its course towards

Pike's Peak; and taking a south-easterly direction, in about ten miles

we crossed a gentle ridge, and, issuing from the South Park, found

ourselves involved among the broken spurs of the mountains which border

the great prairie plains. Although broken and extremely rugged, the

country was very interesting, being well watered by numerous affluents

to the Arkansas River, and covered with grass and a variety of trees."

Carson had disposed of his furs, and was again quietly attending to his

ranche, when he heard of the exorbitant prices for which sheep were

selling in California, and determined to enter upon a speculation. He

had already visited the Navajos Indians, and thither he went again, and

in company with Maxwell and another mountaineer, purchased several

thousand sheep; and with a suitable company of trusty men as shepherds,

took them to Fort Laramie, and thence by the regular emigrant route,

past Salt Lake to California, and arriving without any disaster,

disposed of them in one of the frontier towns, and then went down to the

Sacramento valley, to witness the change which had come over old

familiar places; not that the mining did not interest him; he had seen

that before in Mexico, but he had not seen the cities which had sprung

into existence at a hundred points, in the foot hills of the Sierras,

nor had he seen San Francisco, that city of wondrous growth, which now

contained thirty-five thousand inhabitants.

But for the remembrance of the hills on which the city rested, Carson

would not have known the metropolis of California, as the spot where in

'48 "the people could be counted in an hour." In San Francisco he met so

many old friends, and so many, who, knowing him from the history of his

deeds, desired to do him honor, that the attentions he received, while

it gratified his ambition, were almost annoying.

Tired by the anxiety and hard work of bringing his property over a long

and dangerous journey to a good market, he had looked for rest and

retirement; but instead, he was everywhere sought out and made

conspicuous.

He found himself surrounded with the choice spirits of the new El

Dorado; his name a prestige of strength and position, and his society

courted by everybody. The siren voice of pleasure failed not to speak in

his ear her most flattering invitations. Good-fellowship took him

incessantly by the hand, desiring to lead him into the paths of

dissipation. But the gay vortex, with all its brilliancy, had no

attractions for him; the wine cup, with its sparkling arguments, failed

to convince his calm earnestness of character, that his simple habits of

life needed remodeling. To the storm, however, he was exposed; but, like

a good ship during the gale, he weathered the fierce blast, and finally

took his departure from the new city of a day, with his character

untarnished, but nevertheless leaving behind him many golden opinions.

Some newspaper scribbler, last autumn, announced the death of Carson,

and said, in connection, "His latest and _most remarkable exploit_ on

the plains, was enacted in 1853, when he conducted a drove of sheep

safely to California." Probably the writer was one of those whose eager

curiosity had met a rebuff, in the quiet dignity with which Carson

received the officiousness of the rabble who thronged around him on that

visit. Not that he appreciated honor less, but that its unnecessary

attachments were exceedingly displeasing to him.

In this terribly fast city, where the _monte_ table, and its kindred

dissipations, advertised themselves without a curtain, and where to

indulge was the rule rather than the exception, Carson was able to stand

fire, for he had been before now tried by much greater temptations.

In the strange commingling of people from all quarters of the globe,

whom Carson witnessed in San Francisco, he saw but a slight exaggeration

of what he had often witnessed in Santa Fe,--and indeed, for the element

of variety, in many a trapping party, not to name the summer rendezvous

of the trappers, or the exploring parties of Col. Fremont. To be sure

the Chinamen and the Kanackers were a new feature in society. But

whether it be in the many nationalities represented, or in the

pleasures they pursued, except that in San Francisco there was a

lavishness in the expenditure of wealth commensurate with its speedier

accumulation, there was little new to him, and while he saw its magic

growth with glad surprise, the attractions this city offered could not

allure him. Nor could the vista it opened up of a chance to rise into

position in the advancing struggles for political ascendency, induce one

wish to locate his home in a spot so wanting in the kindly social

relationships; for he had tried the things and found them vanity and

vexation of spirit, and now he yearned for his mountain home, and the

sweet pastoral life which it afforded in his circle of tried friends.

He saved the money he had secured by the sale of his flocks, and went

down overland to Los Angelos to meet Maxwell, who took the trip by sea,

which Carson having tasted once, could not be persuaded to try again,

and there renewing his outfit, and visiting again some of its honored

citizens, they started homeward, and had a pleasant passage till they

reached the Gila River, where grass became so scarce that they were

compelled to take a new course in order to find food for their horses;

but Carson had no difficulty in pursuing a measurably direct course,

and without encountering a snow storm, often terribly severe in the

mountains of this interior country, he reached Taos on the third of

December 1853.

He here received the unexpected information that he had been appointed

Indian agent for New Mexico, and immediately wrote and sent to

Washington the bonds of acceptance of this office. And now commences

Carson's official career, in a capacity for which he was better fitted

than any other person in the Territory.

Long had the Indians in his vicinity called him "father," but now he had

a new claim to this title, for he was to be to them the almoner of the

bounty of the United States Government. There was immediate call for the

exercise of the duties of his office, (for the Indians of New Mexico had

all buried the tomahawk and calumet,) in visiting and attempting to

quiet a band of Apaches, among whom he went alone, for they all knew

him, and secured from them plenty of promises to do well; but he had

scarcely left them, before they were tired of the self-imposed

restraint, and renewedly continued their depredations, and several

serious battles were fought with them by the United States troops, the

first having proved unsuccessful, but never was success wanting when

the commander of United States dragoons had placed his confidence in the

advice, and followed the suggestions of Kit Carson, who was admitted by

them to be the prince of Indian fighters--though he never tolerated

cruelty or the expenditure of life when there was no imperious

necessity, but yet regarded severe measures better than a dawdling

policy.

There had been serious fights in New Mexico in 1846, while Carson was

away with Fremont; and it was better so, as the Mexicans were his blood

and kin; yet, in the change of authority, he fully sympathized. But now,

the enemy was the different tribes of Indians, and in the capacity of

Agent for them, Carson chose to impress them with the power of the

government for which he acted for their own good, that they might be

induced to desist from their plundering, and be prepared for the

influences and practices of civilization; and all the victories secured

over them were due, as history truly records, "To the aid of Kit

Carson," "With the advice of Kit Carson;" and never once is his name

associated with a defeat; for, if he made a part of an expedition, a

condition must be, that such means should be employed as he knew would

accomplish the end desired; for he did not choose, by one single

failure, to give the Indians a chance to think their lawlessness could

escape its merited retribution.

Nor yet did Carson ever advise that confidence in the promises of the

Indians which was not backed by such exhibition of power as to command

obedience; knowing that with these children of the forest, schooled in

the arts of plunder, and the belief that white men and white men's

property were an intrusion on their hunting grounds, and therefore

lawful prey--this was and is _their law_--non-resistance would not

answer, and only stern command, backed by the rifle, ever has secured

obedience--though they appreciate the kindnesses done by those friends

who have such reliance. But it was Carson's opinion that the country

cannot be safe while the Indians roam over it in this wild way, or until

they are located on lands devoted to them and theirs for permanent

homes, and are compelled to settle upon and cultivate the soil, when he

thinks they will come, by careful teaching, to display sentiments of

responsibility for their own acts.

There is little doubt that, had Carson been appointed Superintendent of

Indian Affairs for the department of New Mexico, the reliance sometimes

placed on treaties would have been discarded, and measures taken at an

earlier date, to locate the Apaches and Camanches and Utahs, which might

have been accomplished with less expenditure of blood and of treasure;

but he quietly pursued his business, relying upon the influence which

his knowledge and skill had given him to induce his superiors in

official authority to undertake such measures as seemed to him the

wisest.

The headquarters of his Indian agency were at Taos, and while he spent

as much of his time as possible at Rayedo, the duties of his office

compelled the larger part of it at Taos. The thousand kindly acts he was

able to perform for the Indians, by whom he was constantly surrounded,

had secured such regard for himself that he needed no protection where

he was known--and what Indian of New Mexico did not know him? He went

among them, and entertained them as the children of his charge, having

their unbounded confidence and love.

Every year, in the hey-day of the season, Carson continued the custom of

a revival of earlier associations, by indulging, for a few days, or

perhaps weeks, in the chase; and was joined in these excursions by a

goodly company of his old compeers, as well as later acquired friends,

and men of reputation and culture, from whatever quarter of the world,

visiting the territory; and especially by a select few of the braves of

the Indian tribes under his charge. These were seasons of grateful

recurrence, and their pleasures were long anticipated amid the wearisome

duties of his office.

The incidents of his every-day life, intervening his appointment as

Indian agent and the rebellion, would furnish an abundance of material

for a romance even stranger than fiction. A life so exciting as that

among the Indians and brave frontiersmen, and a name so renowned as that

of Christopher Carson, could not but attract and concentre wild and

romantic occurrences. His life during these years is inseparably

connected with the history of the Territory of New Mexico, which, could

it be given to the public in all its copious and interesting details,

would unquestionably concede to him all the noblest characteristics in

man.

The treaties between the United States and the Indians, during the term

of his appointment, were mainly the result of his acquaintance with the

Indians, his knowledge of their character, and his influence over them.

Nor did the Government fail to recognize his valuable services. During

the rebellion, and while serving principally in New Mexico, where he

distinguished himself by his untiring prosecution of hostilities with

his savage foes, then at war with the Government, he was promoted from

rank to rank, until he finally reached that of Brevet Brigadier-General.

In a report to the National headquarters, dated at Camp Florilla, near

Fort Canby, N. M., January 26, 1864, we find the following detailed

account of operations in New Mexico:

"The culminating point in this expedition has been reached at last by

the very successful operations of our troops at Cañon de Chelly. Col.

Kit Carson left Fort Canby on the sixth instant with a command of four

hundred men, twenty of whom were mounted. He had a section of mountain

artillery with him, and taking the road _via_ Puebla, Colorado, he

started for Cañon de Chelly. He gave orders to Capt. Pheiffer with his

command of one hundred men to enter the cañon at the east opening, while

he himself intended to enter it at the 'mouth,' or west opening, and by

this movement he expected that both columns would meet in the cañon on

the second day, as it was supposed to be forty miles in length.

"Capt. Pheiffer's party proceeded two days through the cañon, fighting

occasionally; but although the Indians frequently fired on them from

the rocky walls above, the balls were spent long before they reached the

bottom of the cañon, which, in many places, exceeded one thousand five

hundred feet in depth. It was a singular spectacle to behold. A small

detachment of troops moving cautiously along the bottom of one of the

greatest cañons on the globe, (the largest is in Asia, I believe,) and

firing volleys upward at hundreds of Navajoes, who looked, on the dizzy

height above them, like so many pigmies. As they advanced the cañon

widened in places, and various spots of cultivated land were passed,

where wheat, maize, beans, melons, etc., had been planted last year;

while more than a thousand feet above their heads they beheld

neat-looking stone houses built on the receding ledges of rocks, which

reminded the beholder of the swallows' nests in the house eaves, or on

the rocky formation overhanging the 'sea-beat caves.' Further on, an

orchard containing about six hundred peach-trees was passed, and it was

evident that the Indians had paid great attention to their culture.

"On the second day a party from Col. Carson's column met the Captain in

the cañon, and returned with him to Col. Carson's camp. A party from the

Colonel's command had, in the meantime, attacked a party of Indians,

twenty-two of whom were killed. This had a dispiriting effect on many

others, who sent in three of their number under a white flag. Col.

Carson received them, and assured them that the Government did not

desire to exterminate them, but that, on the contrary, the President

wished to save and civilize them; and to that end Gen. Carlton had given

him instructions to send all the Navajoes who desired peace to the new

reservation on the Rio Pecos, where they would be supplied with food for

the present, and be furnished with implements, seeds, etc., to cultivate

the soil. They departed well-satisfied, and Col. Carson immediately

ordered Capt. A. B. Carey, Thirteenth United States Infantry, with a

battalion to enter the cañon, and make a thorough exploration of its

various branches, and at the same time to be in readiness to chastise

any body of hostile Navajoes he might encounter, and to receive all who

were friendly, and who wished to emigrate to the new reservation. Capt.

Carey, during a passage of twenty-four hours through a branch of the

cañon hitherto unexplored, made an exact geographical map of this

terrible chasm, and discovered many side cañons hitherto unknown. About

one hundred Indians came in to him and declared that 'the Navajo nation

was no more;' that they were tired of fighting and nearly starved, and

that they wished to be permitted to advise their friends and families in

the mountains; many of whom were willing to leave the land forever, and

go to a country where they would be cared for and protected. They said

they understood agriculture, and were certain they would make

comfortable homes on the Pecos. This was, of course, only the opinion of

some; others would prefer to remain and culture the soil on which they

were born, and live at peace with the territory. However, the latter

were positively informed that unless they were willing to remove they

had better not come in, and, moreover, that the troops would destroy

every blade of corn in the country next summer.

"On the 20th of January Col. Carson came to Fort Canby, and about six

hundred Indians had collected there; but when the wagons arrived to

remove them only one hundred wished to go, and the remainder desired to

return to their villages and caves in the mountains, on pretence of

bringing in some absent member of their families. Col. Carson very nobly

and generously permitted them to choose for themselves; but told them if

ever they came in again they should be sent to Borgue Redondo, whether

willing or not. Col. Carson himself took the Indians to Santa Fe, and

will remain absent about a month. Since his departure many Indians came

in and agreed to go to the reservation.

"I think the Colonel foresaw this, as no person understands Indian

character better than he does. Capt. A. B. Carey, Thirteenth Infantry,

commanding in his absence, will see that all Indians coming in will be

removed, and, I think, before April next, if the present good feeling

exists, we shall have accomplished the removal of the entire tribe.

Capt. A. B. Carey, after successfully marching through the cañon and

noting its topography, reached Fort Canby on the eighteenth instant, and

relieved Capt. Francis M'Cabe, First New Mexico Cavalry, who commanded

in the absence of Col. Kit Carson.

"As the Navajo expedition is now entirely successful, it is but justice

to the officers and men of the First Cavalry of New Mexico, and to Col.

Christopher Carson and his staff to say that they have all acted with

zeal and devotion for the accomplishment of that great desideratum--the

removal of the Navajoes. Cut off from the enjoyments of civilized life,

deprived of its luxuries, comforts, and even many of its necessaries,

and restricted to the exploration of a wilderness and the castigation

of an army of savages, who defied them, and endeavored to find a shelter

among the cliffs, groves, and cañons of their country; in pursuing them

to their haunts they have encountered appalling difficulties, namely:

want of water, grass, and fuel; often exposed to the merciless fury of

the elements, and to the bullets and arrows of a hidden foe. In the face

of these difficulties they have discovered new rivers, springs, and

mountains in a region hitherto unexplored, and penetrated by companies

into the very strongholds of the enemy, who fled farther west as our

columns advanced, and on various occasions the dismounted cavalry have,

by rapid and unparalleled night marches, surprised that enemy, capturing

his camp and securing his flocks and herds, at a time when he imagined

himself far beyond our reach, and really when he occupied a country

never before trodden by the foot of a white man.

"Much of the credit is due to the perseverance and courage of Col. Kit

Carson, commanding the expedition, whose example excited all to great

energy, and inspired great resolution; but it may not be out of place to

remark that it is now demonstrated beyond a doubt that, while the troops

of New Mexico have long borne the reputation of being the best cavalry,

they have proved themselves in the present campaign to be the best

infantry in the world.

"Gen. James H. Carlton, who knows, perhaps, and understands the material

for an army as well as any General in our army, has directed the

formation of a New-Mexican Brigade, and when the savage foe is removed,

that Brigade, commanded by Brigadier-Gen. Kit Carson, would surely

reflect credit on the Territory and on the Department Commander."

After the close of the war Christopher Carson continued in the employ of

the Government, rendering such services as only one equally skilled and

experienced could render, until his death. He died at Fort Lyon,

Colorado, on the 23d of May, 1868, from the effects of the rupture of an

artery, or probably an aneurism of an artery, in the neck. But a few

weeks previous he had visited Washington on a treaty mission, in company

with a deputation of red men, and made a tour of several of the Northern

and Eastern cities.

In his death the country has lost the most noted of that intrepid race

of mountaineers, trappers, and guides that have ever been the pioneers

of civilization in its advancement westward. As an Indian fighter he was

matchless. His rifle, when fired at a redskin, never failed him, and

the number that fell beneath his aim, who can tell! (The identical rifle

which Carson used in all his scouts, during the last thirty-five years

of his life, he bequeathed, just previous to his death, to Montezuma

Lodge, A. F. and A. M., Santa Fe, of which he was a member.) The country

will always regard him as a perfect representative of the American

frontiersman, and accord to him the most daring valor, consistent

kindliness, perseverant energy and truthfulness which that whole great

territory, that we must still regard as lying between the civilizations,

is capable of furnishing.

* * * * *

FOOTNOTES:

[A] Peters.

[B] Annals of San Francisco. By Frank Soulé, John H Gihon, and James

Nisbet. New York, D. Appleton & Co., 1855.

[C] Cutts. Conquest of California and New Mexico.

[D] Peters.

* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes:

Simple typographical errors were corrected.

Punctuation and spelling were made consistent when a predominant

preference was found in this book; otherwise they were not changed.

Ambiguous and missing quotation marks remedied on pages 79, 177-178,

and 334.

Page 301: "it is not wonderful" probably should be "is it not

wonderful".

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