_The titles of his Excellency General Jung Bahadoor Coomaranagee in
England--Extraordinary notions of the British public on Indian
affairs--Jung Bahadoor's conciliatory policy--Our unsuccessful attempt to
penetrate beyond the permitted boundaries--Dangerous position of the
Prime Minister--His philanthropic designs--Great opposition on the part
of Durbar--Native punishments--A Nepaulese chief-justice--Jung's
popularity with the peasantry and army_.
The rumours in England during Jung Bahadoor's short residence there--of
who he was, of what position he held, of his having taken his greatest
enemies with him to keep them from conspiring against him while absent--of
his being at least a Prince, if not the Rajah himself in disguise--were
as far from correct, and as improbable, as were the numerous stories
related of him in the newspapers, many of which had no foundation
whatever, and in no way redounded to his credit.
The subject, however, of so much speculation was generally too much
pleased with his notoriety to care for the means which in some measure
obtained it for him; and I have heard him repeat with great glee some
imaginary anecdote of himself, or laughingly enumerate the various
appellations by which he had been known. Amongst the few words of
English which he could pronounce were those by which he was most
frequently addressed--such as, the Prince, the Ambassador, your Highness,
your Excellency, the Minister, Jung Bahadoor, Jung, or more often "the
Jung." Whilst the appearance of the Coomaranagee Polkas showed an
unusual amount of correct information on the part of the publisher.
Such ignorance might have been expected from the utter indifference
manifested in England towards Indian affairs. The ideas of John Bull
upon the subject are often ludicrous in the extreme, as he finds it
impossible to divest himself of the preconceived notions which he surely
must have been born with when he pertinaciously imagines that all dark-
coloured people have woolly heads and thick lips, and speak the broken
English of the negro; nor has he the slightest conception of the relative
position of great towns in India, or which States are independent; or who
the Nizam is, or if his contingent is not some part of his dress; or
whether the Taj is not the husband of the Begum mentioned in Pendennis.
He has a vague notion that nabobs come from India, and has heard perhaps
of cabobs, but what the difference is, or whether they are not articles
of Indian export usually packed in casks, he has not the most remote
conception. For all the light, therefore, that John Bull could throw
upon the subject of who or what Jung Bahadoor was, besides being the
Nepaulese ambassador, or where the country was that he came to represent,
it might remain a mystery to the present day.
But even supposing the public were better informed on Indian affairs, it
would not be a matter of surprise that they should be under a
misconception as to what Jung's position in his own country might be,
seeing that it is not usual amongst European nations to send their prime
ministers on foreign missions. But to estimate correctly the minister's
power and authority, the word "send" perhaps ought not to be used in this
case, since he was a self-appointed ambassador; and his next brother was
left by him to perform the arduous duties attendant on the important
office which he vacated for a while.
And now that he is returned to resume the reins of government, and once
more become involved in the petty intrigues of his highland court, it is
natural that he should look back with delight, not unmingled with regret,
at the wonders he has so lately witnessed--the, to him, magical effects
of the operations of steam--the still more incomprehensible electric
telegraph--our institutions--our court--the magnificence of the
successive entertainments, of which he could say "Magna pars fui," and at
which he was not more the spectator than the spectacle: but, above all,
was it a matter of astonishment to him that such hospitality should have
been shown to an unknown and ignorant stranger by a nation whose
enterprise is no less stirring than her resources are vast, and in the
midst of a social machinery to him so incomprehensibly intricate in its
details.
"Why," he would observe after his return to Katmandu, "should I attempt
to tell these poor ignorant people what I have seen? It would be as
ridiculous in me to suppose they would believe it as it is hopeless to
attempt to make them understand it." And he feels that the information
he has acquired has been too extensive to allow him to sink to the level
of those by whom he is surrounded. But, while anxious to increase his
popularity, with his attempts at conciliation is combined a patronizing
air, which he cannot conceal, and which is calculated to render him
unpopular, even could he bring himself to return to the old system of
embracing instead of shaking hands; of taking off his shoes when entering
the Durbar; of salaaming ere he addresses his Monarch--all which acts of
devotion and homage are repugnant to the man who has had an interview
with the Queen of England, and received a visit from the Duke of
Wellington. "When that great warrior called upon me," he says, "I felt
it to be the proudest moment of my life:" and at Benares, when, upon the
occasion of his visiting a native Rajah, there was a question of whether
he should go in state or not, he decided the matter by saying, "I shall
go just as I went to return the Duke's visit;" or, at another time, "I
will receive the Rajah in a friendly way, just as I did the Duke when he
called upon me." Nothing seemed to impress him so deeply as the absence
of all display where genuine greatness rendered it unnecessary; and he
looks with no slight contempt upon the pomp to which he in common with
his court was formerly so much attached. That court, however, retaining
of course its old unenlightened sentiments, looks with suspicion and
distrust on the independent manners of the returned prime minister. "He
has become a Feringhee."--"He wants to introduce their barbarous customs
amongst us."--"He brings visitors, and is making friends with the
English, in order to betray us to them." This is said by his enemies at
court; and, while they watch his every action, esteem him a traitor, who,
if they did but know it, is the best friend of their country. Thus, in
spite of his earnest desire to promote its welfare, he is likely to be
thwarted, and his ardent and somewhat impatient temperament will not, it
is to be feared, improve matters, however good his intentions may he.
That he is already careful lest he offend any prejudices, I had a
convincing and most annoying proof.
On the journey through India, while in high spirits, out shooting, he had
promised to allow us to travel over any part of Nepaul we might wish to
visit--a permission never yet granted to any European. To the fulfilment
of this promise we naturally looked with no small pleasure; but, after a
residence of a week in Nepaul, the anti-Anglican feeling was so strongly
manifested, that the mere fact of four or five European visitors having
been in Katmandu (for Lord G--- and his party were among his guests)
brought upon him a certain degree of odium.
To allow strangers to visit Nepaul, and reside at Katmandu, was unusual,
but bearable; the idea of a common beef-eater infringing the limits of a
circle beyond which no British resident, much less traveller, had ever
penetrated, was so monstrous a heresy on the part of the prime
minister--so serious an infraction of a well-established rule--that even
Jung felt it to be too unpopular an act by which to celebrate his return
to his country. It was with much regret that we were obliged to
relinquish so interesting an enterprise. I must not, however, forget his
offer to adhere to his promise if we wished it, saying at the same time
that his doing so would seriously compromise him. But, as _compromise_
and _decapitate_ may be looked upon as synonymous terms in Nepaul, we
felt that it was hardly fair to our kind host to place him in such an
awkward position; and as, moreover, the effect of his being so
compromised in Katmandu would have probably entailed upon us a precisely
similar fate, we considered it hardly fair to the guests either. But
while thus hanging back from his promise on the score of compromising
himself, I am fully persuaded that personal considerations had but little
to do in the matter. He is looking out for means of usefulness, and it
was more the fear of retarding his schemes of improvement by thus
increasing the popular discontent that induced him to change his mind,
than any hope of retaining his head upon his shoulders. The difficulty
of doing this can be but very slightly increased; and it must be admitted
that he esteems life as lightly in his own case as he formerly did when
others were concerned.
It cannot but be regretted that with so pure an object he should be
totally without co-operation from any quarter. The young King, capable
only of aiding in nefarious schemes, such as those already recounted, can
in no way comprehend the new-fangled philanthropic views of the prime
minister: He cares little about the welfare of his country; his amusement
seems to consist in concocting and executing bloody designs, and his mind
must be so accustomed to this species of excitement that it can scarce do
without it. It is unfortunate that the Rajah's hobby should lie in this
peculiar direction, more unfortunate still that the contemplated victim
should be Jung; for I presume that there is little doubt that the King's
brother, who was engaged in the last conspiracy against the minister's
life--which took place a few days after my visit--must have acted with
the knowledge, and most probably at the instigation, of his Majesty.
Nor can Jung look to his brothers for support as in times of old: one of
them, whom he esteemed amongst the most faithful, was, as before
mentioned, deeply implicated in the same attempt on his life; and there
is no one now on whom he can confidently depend in the hour of need
except the two youngest of the family, who accompanied him to England,
and whom I consider thoroughly devoted to his interests. Deserted by his
King, who owes his throne to him, his life conspired against by one of
his own brothers, bound to him by the yet stronger ties of blood, he
stands alone a mark for the dagger of any one who would win the approval
of his degraded Sovereign. But his bearing is not the less bold, or his
eye less piercing, as he makes the man quail before him who is that
moment planning his destruction. He anticipates the fate of his fourteen
predecessors; they were all assassinated! His predecessors, however, did
not surround themselves with a guard armed with rifles always loaded.
{121} In all probability the man who takes the life of the prime
minister will do so at the price of his own. So securely guarded is he,
and so careful of his own safety, that I cannot but hope he may live to
frustrate the designs of his enemies, and to carry out that enlightened
policy which, while it morally elevates the people, would develop the
resources of a country possessing many natural advantages, in its
delightful climate, fertile soil, and industrious population. Valleys
unvisited by civilization save as received through the medium of a few
semi-barbarous travellers, may contain treasures which they are now
unknown to possess; mines of copper, lead, and antimony, now clumsily
worked, may be made to yield of their abundance; tracts of uncultivated
lands be brought into rich cultivation, and efficient means of transport
would carry their produce far and wide through the country. Katmandu
itself would be on the high road for the costly trade of Chinese Tartary
and Thibet with the provinces of Upper India.
In fact it is impossible to enumerate the various benefits which would
accrue to the country were a different system of government adopted; and
it is much to be feared that unless the present prime minister lives to
accomplish the task he has undertaken, no one of his successors, for some
time to come at least, will have either the will or the ability requisite
for its successful consummation.
In some of his legislative acts Jung had shown himself to be in advance
of his age before he left Nepaul. No less than twenty-two punishments
for various crimes, principally consisting of different modes of torture,
were abolished. A thief must have been three times convicted of the
crime ere he can suffer the penalty entailed upon the offence, viz., loss
of his hand; and after it is cut off, he has his choice between having it
bound up or allowing himself to bleed to death. I understood the latter
alternative to be the one usually chosen by the culprit. Gambling is
strictly prohibited in Nepaul, except for four or five days during the
celebration of the Devali.
Women are not liable to capital punishment. The mutilation of noses no
longer exists, although some years ago it was the most usual punishment,
and one village was entirely peopled by the unfortunate victims of such
barbarous treatment.
The amount of labour which his position as prime minister entails upon
Jung is almost incredible; the simplest bargain cannot be struck, nor a
cooly engaged, nor can a departure or an arrival take place, without his
sign manual. In fact he comprises within himself the whole of the
ministry, besides doing the entire duty of the several departments, and
the office of premier in Nepaul can be no more a sinecure than it is in
England. One can only wonder that a position fraught with such imminent
danger to its possessor, and bringing upon him such incessant trouble and
responsibility, should be so eagerly sought, when it entails the almost
absolute certainty of a violent death. With us moral courage is an
indispensable quality for a prime minister; in Nepaul, physical courage
is no less needed. If he is a good shot, and expert with his kukri and
kora, so much the better for him. As regards both these accomplishments
Jung was eminently qualified for the post he now holds; but his literary
acquirements were of a very low order, for upon becoming prime minister
he could neither read nor write. Finding great inconvenience from his
incapacity in these respects, he applied himself diligently to his
alphabet, and was soon able to carry on all official correspondence of
any importance to himself. The whole of the political, fiscal, and
judicial communications are submitted to him, and the departments
controlled by him, very little regard being had to the Rajah's will on
the subject.
The next officer in rank to Jung Bahadoor is his brother, Bum Bahadoor,
who bears the mark on his hand of the horrible action in Durbar already
recorded. He appeared inferior in ability to his brother, but it is
difficult to judge of the talent of any one who is in a subordinate
position in Nepaul.
The Raj Guru is the highest spiritual dignitary in Nepaul, and in that
capacity received the greatest deference from every one, including Jung,
whose popularity in some measure rests on his intimate relations with the
chief priest, to whom he invariably paid every mark of respect. The Raj
Guru met us at Benares, and granted indulgences to those who had visited
England. So great is the respect shown him, that upon entering his
presence the prime minister invariably touched with his forehead the foot
of the holy man. To the office of spiritual adviser to the Rajah is
added that of judge of the spiritual court, which is one of great
emolument, arising chiefly from fines levied on the infraction of
religious ceremonies or ordinances--such as the killing or maltreating of
a cow and other like enormities.
Next in order follow the Kazies, or "Patres conscripti," who ought to
possess some voice in the administration of affairs, but are content to
remain silent during the independent rule of the Minister Sahib. They
number thirty or forty, and their duty is to consult upon all weighty
matters connected with the Government, while some act as governors of
provinces, others as judges in important causes.
Then come the Sirdars, who also decide causes, and possess considerable
authority in the more remote districts, governing some of the provinces,
and superintending the collection of revenue. Their number is far larger
than that of the Kazies.
We visited the supreme court one day and saw the Chief-justice, or Durma
Dikar, sitting cross-legged (smoking his hookah on the verandah), the
court having adjourned. The old man bore that venerable appearance which
is everywhere esteemed inseparable from the judicial character, and I
doubted whether his long grey beard was not a more imposing, as it
certainly was a more natural and graceful, appendage than a wig.
There are six law courts in Katmandu, presided over by Sirdars and
Bicharees, and the laws and modes of punishment are very effectual for
the prevention of crime; for although a prisoner cannot be convicted
except upon his own confession, he may be subjected to an ordeal which
will most probably extort it; and, perhaps, in an eastern country justice
is more effectually administered by such methods than where the judge
decides on the guilt or innocence of a man by speculating on the
character of the witnesses, and believing those who look most as if they
were telling the truth; and where, although he knows that all the
witnesses are more or less bribed, he is not allowed to take any but a
voluntary admission from the prisoner, when perhaps a little gentle
persuasion would save a great deal of unnecessary trouble, to say nothing
of the amount of lying that might thus be dispensed with. Whatever the
laws may be, they seem to give perfect satisfaction to the inhabitants,
who cannot be called a litigious race.
While we were at Bisoleah, on our way to Katmandu, an interesting
instance occurred of the prime minister taking the law into his own
hands; and, as far as we could judge, complete justice was done to the
parties. A complaint was preferred by a deputation of the peasantry of
the Terai against one of the sirdars who was a member of his suite, and
who had been governor of some part of the district before he had
accompanied the minister on his expedition to England. It was alleged
that he had, in connection with his brother, who was an especial
favourite with Jung, defrauded them of 25,000 rupees. This charge was
indignantly denied by the two sirdars. The case was fully entered into,
and the result was, that Jung became convinced of the justice of the
claim of the peasantry. He had no sooner satisfied himself on this point
than he ordered both the noblemen to be placed in confinement, where they
were to remain until the required sum was forthcoming. The affair
delayed us twenty-four hours; and I perfectly well remember wondering at
the time what could be the cause of a detention for so long a period in
so unpleasant a locality; more especially as by it we lost the chance of
a day's rhinoceros shooting, which was, doubtless, as great a
disappointment to Jung as to myself.
By thus carefully protecting the interests of the peasantry he has
endeared himself to them, since they are always sure of a ready and
attentive hearing of any complaint, although it may affect the highest
nobles in the land. In talking to a man who acted as guide on our return
through the Terai, we discovered that the popularity of Jung, arising
from this cause, had extended across the frontier, and had induced my
informant to migrate into the Nepaul dominions, so that he might benefit
by the paternal rule of its prime minister. He said the taxes were
lighter, and he led altogether a more happy and independent life than in
the Company's dominions, where the native officers employed as
tax-gatherers do not always display the most scrupulous honesty.
But it is not with the peasantry alone that Jung is so deservedly a
favourite. With the soldiers he is, if possible, still more popular. An
admirer of Napoleon, he has profited by the perusal of his life, and
turns to advantage his knowledge of the influence possessed in so
wonderful a manner by one whom he seeks in every respect to imitate, so
far as the difference of position admits. That he has succeeded
admirably with the army there is no doubt. His personal feats of daring
and known courage are considerable aids to an imitation of the more
scientific means employed by his great model.
Thus, firmly seated in the affections of the most important portions of
the community over which he rules with unlimited power, and a most ardent
wish to improve their condition, it will be on all accounts most
deplorable if the country is deprived of the services of so valuable a
man by some vile plot, emanating from the petty intrigue of a jealous and
disappointed Durbar.