The most elastic word in the whole vocabulary of entertaining is the
term _luncheon_. It is applied to a mid-day meal occurring any time
between 11 A. M. and 3 P. M., and may mean anything, from a brilliant
_a la Russe_ banquet, to the hastily gathered together fragments left
from yesterday's dinner.
It may describe an hour of absolute leisure, and the most delightful
conversational interchange, or it may signify the five minutes' grab
from the side-board between the games of a closely-contested amateur
tennis tournament.
In general, we may say that the most formal of luncheons, resembling
the dinner in the main features of its serving, has these points of
distinction; the number of guests is irregular, usually uncertain, they
go to the table singly; they come dressed in any way that the hour of
the day, or their recent occupations warrant--men dropping in dressed
for business or sporting, and ladies in promenade costumes, with
bonnets or hats; the hour is not rigidly fixed,--luncheon, being
largely of cold dishes, is not spoiled by a half-hour's tardiness--a
late comer is greeted as cordially as the first arrival; and "the more
the merrier" seems to be the motto of the hostess who keeps "open
house" at luncheon time.
The formal luncheons for which engraved invitations are issued, are
usually "ladies' luncheons;" and the formality of the serving is
equalled by the elegance of the toilets. Men have little leisure for
day-time entertainments, except during the brief outing at some summer
resort, where the easy-going lunch is the ruling fashion.
The _menu_ of the cold luncheon may present great variety, and provide
for many guests with little trouble. For a smaller, or more definite,
number a hot luncheon may be prepared--a tender steak with mashed
potatoes and asparagus, or something equally simple--and a dessert of
cakes, ice-cream, and fruits; in all respects a little "informal
dinner."
The large buffet luncheon, like the four o'clock tea, gives opportunity
for displaying all the pretty china that one owns. Flowers and fruits
may decorate the table or tables, and the most artistic effects may be
secured by a little attention to blending and grouping. A hostess _who
knows how_ can make her rooms look like a festal bower for these
occasions without much money outlay; and if she also is clever in the
compounding of made dishes and salads, she can give luncheons that are
remembered as the epitome of good style, albeit the bills for the same
were surprisingly small. Such a gifted woman enjoys a sense of
exultation that is unknown to her richer sister, who merely fills out a
cheque for the cost and leaves all else to the caterer, as one must,
when the luncheon is given at a club or tea room.
In general, the buffet luncheon is much the same on all occasions, when
entertaining large companies at home. The difference is not so much in
the way of serving, as in the kind of refreshments proffered. The tea
may be a light affair, if you will; merely a bit and a sip for good
fellowship. But the luncheon is one of the solid meals of the day,
requiring something substantial. Such sustaining things as chicken
salad, appetizing sandwiches, bouillon (hot or jellied), cold sliced
ham, with relishes, as celery, olives, seasonable fruits, etc., satisfy
the normal hunger at noontime; and delicious cakes and ices with coffee
make a festal finale. Almost any attractive luncheon dish may be
included, preferably things that are not hurt by standing; as the
luncheon service for a large party fills an hour or two. For this
reason, coffee is the most manageable beverage to serve.
The refreshments are arranged on the dining-table. A fine table-cloth
may be used; or handsome doylies if the table itself is of handsome
finish. The salad bowl is set on one side, the platters of sandwiches,
etc., on the other; with the coffee urn at one end, the ices at the
other, if there is room; otherwise, the cake and ices are served from a
side table. Another side table is desirable, to hold the stacks of
dishes and napkins.
As the hostess must give her entire attention to receiving her guests,
she intrusts the oversight of the dining-room to several matrons, who
are aided by a bevy of the younger girls (the young men also, at an
evening party). At the proper time these young people pass the napkins
and plates (usually with the salad already served) to the guests
scattered around the rooms. Other things are promptly brought, the
coffee being served immediately after, by another set of helpers.
Since all cannot be seated, small tables placed here and there in the
suite of rooms will give the standing ones a chance to set a coffee cup
down now and then. Candy in tiny reception sticks may be passed with
the cake; or bonbon dishes may be set in unexpected places about the
rooms, where any one who discovers them may nibble at will.
The family waitress, with extra help if needed, should be in attendance
near the dining-room exit, to receive the used dishes and remove them
at once from the scene. This is a nice point; for a congestion of
dishes in the dining-room spoils the effect of an otherwise
well-managed service. The maid will also keep the stack of plates,
etc., replenished; and she will carry back and forth from the pantry
the salad bowl and platters for replenishing.
Cutlery is limited to a fork for the salad, a spoon for the coffee, and
a fork or spoon for the ice cream. The ices may be in fancy individual
shapes, if one chooses to take that much trouble; but the brick,
brought in ready sliced for serving, is always suitable, and easier to
manage.
Much of this is so generally understood that further details seem
superfluous. The least experienced hostess need not be overanxious
about small points, if the general order is observed; for luncheon
guests are a genial crowd, and nobody notices little mishaps. I am
assuming that your guests are all very nice people, in sympathy with
you, and aiding you to the extent of their ability to make things
pleasant. Those who have this sincere disposition need no instruction
in behavior. Each one's conduct will be guided by her own instinctive
sense of propriety. One who is habitually polite is not likely to make
any blunders at a luncheon, since there are no rigid conventionalities
to be infringed.
If the luncheon hour is much past noon, the guests should be careful
not to remain too long after, as they might thus be detaining the
hostess from later afternoon engagements.