RESIDENCE IN GHADAMES TO BEGINNING OF THE RAMADAN.
Arrival at Ghadames.--Welcome of the People.--Interview with the
Governor, Rais Mustapha.--Distances of the route from Tripoli to
Ghadames.--Geographical position of the Oasis.--First sight of
the Touaricks.--Commence practising as Quack-Doctor.--Devotion of
the Arabs.--Prejudices of the People, and overcome by the
Rais.--Many Patients.--My House full of Touaricks.--The Sheikh of
the Slaves.--Character of my Camel-Driver.--I make the tour of
the Oasis.--Visit to the Souk.--Prejudices against me
diminish.--First sight of Birds.--A young Taleb's specimen of
Writing.--My Turjeman's House.--The Negro Dervish.--Touarick
Camel Races.--A few Drops of Rain.--Various Visits,
Conversations, &c., about Timbuctoo.--Prevalent Diseases, and my
Medicine Chest.--Evening previous to the Ramadan.--Houses, Public
Buildings, and Streets.
GRADUALLY we neared the city as the day got up. It was dusty and hot, and
disagreeable. My feelings were down at zero; and I certainly did not
proceed to enter the city in style of conqueror, one who had vanquished
the galling hardships of The Desert, in the most unfavourable season of
the year. We were now met with a great number of the people of the city,
come to welcome the safe arrival of their friends, for travelling in The
Desert is always considered insecure even by its very inhabitants.
Amongst the rest was the merchant Essnousee, whose acquaintance I had
made in Tripoli, who welcomed me much to my satisfaction when thus
entering into a strange place. Another person came up to me, who, to my
surprise, spoke a few words in Italian, which I could not expect to hear
in The Desert. He followed me into the town, and the Governor afterwards
ordered him to be my turjeman, ("interpreter"). Now, the curiosity of the
people became much excited, all ran to see _The Christian_! Every body in
the city knew I was coming two months before my arrival. As soon as I
arrived in Tripoli, the first caravan took the wonderful intelligence of
the appointment of an English Consul at Ghadames. A couple of score of
boys followed hard at the heels of my camel, and some running before, to
look at my face; the men gaped with wide open mouths; and the women
started up eagerly to the tops of the houses of the Arab suburb, clapping
their hands and _loolooing_. It is perhaps characteristic of the more
gentle and unsophisticated nature of womankind, that women of The Desert
give you a more lively reception than men. The men are gloomy and silent,
or merely curious without any demonstrations. I entered the city by the
southern gate. The entrance was by no means imposing. There was a
rough-hewn, worn, dilapidated gate-way, lined with stone-benches, on
which The Ancients were once accustomed to sit and dispense justice as in
old Israelitish times. Having passed this ancient gate, which wore the
age of a thousand years, we wound round and round in the suburbs within
the walls, through narrow and intricate lanes, with mud walls on each
side, which inclosed the gardens. The palms shot their branches over from
above, and relieved this otherwise repulsive sight to the stranger. But I
was too much fatigued and exhausted to notice any thing, and almost ready
to drop from off my camel. In fact, the distance which I had come since I
first saw the dark palms of the city at the dawn, seemed to exceed
(mostly the case when exhausted in completing the last mile of the
journey,) all the rest of the route. I now proceeded forthwith to the
Governor, the Rais Mustapha, being led by the people _en masse_, who, on
seeing me, said, "_Es-slamah! Es-slamah! Es-slamah!_" ordered me coffee,
and gave me a cordial welcome. It was about 10 A.M. His Excellency was
sitting out in the street on a stone-bench, under the shade. Some
visitors were sitting at a distance, and servants were lounging about.
The Governor's house is without the city, in the gardens. It was cleanly
white-washed, but small, only two stories high. Before the door it was
well watered, and there was a freshness springing up from the water just
sprinkled about. Several palms cast gracefully their dark shadows on the
street. The Governor was very sick, his face was tied up, and his eyes
covered. But he smoked incessantly. He said only a few words through his
interpreter. I was equally out of order, and begged him to allow me to go
to the house which was being prepared for me. He consented; and two hours
after his Excellency sent me a dinner of mutton, fowls, and rice.
If I were asked my opinion as to this journey, and its being undertaken
by an European, I would answer for myself, that I would risk it again,
because I know my constitution, and how to treat myself. But I could not
conscientiously recommend it to others in this season of the year. Were I
to perform it again, I would manage much better. I would be better
mounted, have a better tent, and a better assortment of provisions. Most
assuredly I have great reason to thank Providence that I am arrived in
perfect health.
The whole time from Tripoli to Ghadames had occupied twenty-three days,
but seven or eight had been consumed by delay in The Mountains. The
absolute distances of travelling given me by Mohammed, are:--
From Tripoli to Janzour 3 hours.
" Janzour to Zouweeah 9 "
" Zouweeah to Beer-el-Hamra 2 "
" Beer-el-Hamra to Shouwabeeah 5 "
" Shouwabeeah to Wady Lethel 14 "
" Wady Lethel to Aâyat 3 "
" Aâyat to Yefran 3 "
" Yefran to Rujban 18 "
" Rujban to Seenawan 4 days.
(sometimes 5.) "
" Seenawan to Emjessen 2 "
" Emjessen to Ghadames 1 "
The quickest time, in more general terms, in which the journey can be
performed, excluding of course all stoppages, is:--
From Tripoli to The Mountains 3 days.
" The Mountains to Seenawan 3 "
" Seenawan to Ghadames 3 "
The French geographers, for some reason, have made Ghadames situate upon
a salt plain, confounding its site with the salt plain of _Emjessen_.
There is no salt plain in the suburbs of Ghadames, or the country near.
According to the _official_ letter of the Porte, written by Ali Effendi,
Minister of Foreign Affairs, the oasis is situate in the _Caimakat de
Jibel Garbigi_. As I did not receive the Porte's memorandum of my recall
from Ghadames until my return, I made no inquiries of this mountain
_Garbigi_, but I imagine it exists, though I never heard its name.
Ghadames is situate in 30° 9′ north latitude, and in 9° 18′ east
longitude.
_25th._--I find my house, which had been prepared for me by the kindness
of the Sheikh Haj Mohammed Makouran, very commodious and tolerably clean,
and I make myself at home. It is situate in the suburbs, close by the
Governor's house. I now tried to get a nap, but could not. Then I went to
bathe in the Mysterious Spring, whence springs up this city as an emerald
amidst a waste of stone and sand! Intend bathing every day if I can. Saw
Essnousee again, and many of the merchants whom I had seen at Tripoli.
Found them all civil. But the people who most excited my attention were
the Touaricks, whom I now saw for the first time. Many of them were here
at this time for trading purposes. They expressed as much astonishment at
seeing me as I them, some exclaiming, "God! God! how could the Infidel
come here?" Late in the afternoon, after napping, went again into the
city: was much pleased with its appearance. Thought it better than
Tripoli, considering the position of the respective places, Tripoli on
the edge of the sea, and open to all the world, and Ghadames in the midst
of The Desert, far from the shores of the Mediterranean. No poor are seen
begging about the streets, and all the people look well dressed today.
They had put on their holiday clothes, which is usual on the arrival of a
large caravan. What a contrast was this to the squalor and filth of
Tripoli, with its miserable beggars choking up all the thoroughfares! No
women were seen about but the half-castes, mostly slaves, but plenty of
children playing here and there. I heard amongst them the whisper of
"The Kafer, the Kafer!" as I passed by.
Began to practise my quackery very early, and administered solution for
the eye in various parts of the streets _pro bono publico_. The Rais sent
for me likewise, and I poured a few drops of caustic into his eyes. In
fact, I was full of business, although but a few hours in the town, and
hardly had time to look about me. This business after such a journey! My
turjeman, Bel-Kasem, also took me into his garden, and gave me a supply
of onions, peppers, and dates. The gardens appeared quite equal to those
of Tripoli. The turjeman was soon useful, though he only spoke a few
words of Italian, but chiefly because he had less prejudices against the
Christians than his fellow-townsmen. He had worked in the house of a
French merchant in Tunis many years, and always retained a sort of
sneaking kindness for Frenchmen, which indeed was much to his credit. In
walking about the town, I was followed by groups of children and black
women, all running one over another to see me. My turjeman was obliged to
beat them to keep them off. I am the _second_ Christian who has visited
Ghadames; the first being the unfortunate Major Laing, who never returned
to record what he saw in this city! But his residence of a few days here
is forgotten by nearly all the present generation. The Rais is the only
Turk. All the troops are Arabs. The Ghadamsee people are never soldiers.
This evening the Rais sent me supper, much the same as the dinner.
The people of the ghafalah (the Arab strangers), went to pray this
evening in the mosque set apart for strangers. I must not omit the
mention of the strict and scrupulous exactitude with which all the
ghafalah prayed _en route_. Five times a day is prescribed by the Koran.
Most of them prayed the five times, but not altogether, some choosing
their own time, a liberty allowed to travellers. It was a refreshing,
though at the same time a saddening sight, to see the poor Arab
camel-drivers pray so devoutly, laying their naked foreheads upon the
sharp stones and sand of The Desert--people who had literally so few of
the bounties of Providence, many of them scarcely any thing to eat--and
yet these travel-worn, famished men supplicated the Eternal God with
great and earnest devotion! What a lesson for the fat, overfed Christian!
And shall we say, that because these men are Mohammedans, _therefore_ the
portals of heaven are hermetically sealed against the rising incense of
their Desert prayers? . . . It is hard to think so . . . though some
think so.
_26th._--Employed as yesterday in administering the medicines. My
turjeman did not come to-day, and I suspected, intuitively almost, the
people of Ghadames had persuaded him not to come. It turned out
afterwards that my suspicions were well-founded; nevertheless, I received
several small presents from the people. The merchants are civil, but some
little jealousy discovers itself on religious grounds. All Mohammedans
have got an idea that the Christians will one day take their countries
from them, but that, in the end, with the aid of God, they will revenge
themselves, and repossess all their cities and countries: "This," said my
Marabout, "is a prophecy contained in our sacred books." My presence is
therefore by some considered the preliminary for the overthrow of the
Mussulman power of Ghadames, I am the scout, the spy into "the nakedness
of the land;" others think I pollute the sacred city of Ghadames with my
infidel carcass. Yesterday I got also entangled in the labyrinth of dark
streets, some of which are often turned into mosques at certain hours of
the day. Of this the people complained to the Rais, who sent me word to
be careful. I replied, I was an utter stranger, and did not know what I
was about; in fact, the Rais excused me to the people saying, "A little
by little, The Christian will know to do all which is right. We must
teach him." Indeed, I found the conduct of Mustapha from the first very
kind, and he was determined no improper prejudices should get into the
heads of the people against me. The Rais continued to send me breakfast,
dinner, and supper. "This," said the servant, "would continue _three_
days, according to custom;" in fact, I found the same custom adopted by
the Governor of Ghat. Caillié mentions the custom as prevailing amongst
the Braknas. But it will soon be seen that the Rais did not stint his
hospitality to this conventional usage. His Excellency found his eyes
better to-day, and I gave him a dose of pills.
My camel-driver came up to me in his usual soft sneaking way, and began
his pious jargon:--"God be praised for Yâkob, because he has arrived safe
in Ghadames--now God is one, and above all things powerful. Besslamah."
This he was wont to repeat _en route_. He then said gravely, "Now, Yâkob,
you are my friend--you wish to go to Soudan, I will go with you, if you
like, but I will sell you my camel, on which you rode here. You know it's
good and very wise. It doesn't stumble. Buy it, I'll sell it because you
are my friend, you shall have it cheap, for twenty-five dollars." The
fact is, the camel had got a small hole in its back, and being afraid he
should not cure the camel, he wanted me to buy it. Twenty-five dollars is
the average price of a camel.
_27th._--Paid a visit this morning to the Rais; told him the turjeman was
afraid to come with me to show me the city and interpret, because the
people said to him, "Bel-Kasem, thou must not show The Christian the
sacred things of our holy city: never were they polluted by an infidel."
The Rais smiled and ridiculed the thing, and said he would send for the
man. I observed I would pay him so much per day. "No," he replied, "I am
his master, you are a stranger, I must pay." Whilst we were talking, a
letter came informing the Rais that some robbers had carried off six
camels from the village of Seenawan. The Rais was displeased and said to
me, "All this country is _batel_ (good-for-nothing)." I asked the Rais if
there were a prison in Ghadames.
_H. E._ "Yes."
_I._ "Is there any body in it?"
_H. E._ "No."
_I._ "How?"
_H. E._ "This is a city of dervishes and marabouts--people don't
steal--if they've nothing to eat they beg."
People are calling at my house all day long for medicines. Every morning
I send tea (made, of course,) to the Rais and the Sheikh Makouran.
Presented the Rais with my Moorish portfolio, all worked over with
various devices in leather and silk. He was quite delighted with it,
observing, "The Christians are good people, but the people here don't
know them. Yâkob, take courage, little by little," (a favourite
expression of the Rais). Next to my house is a garden whose date-trees
bear no fruit, and its beds are covered with dry dust, a sad picture of
neglect. On asking how this was, I was told the owner was in Soudan, and
in consequence no one looked after and watered his garden. The merchants
of this city often remain in Soudan five, ten, even fifteen and twenty
years, leaving their families here whilst they accumulate a fortune in
commercial speculations. Sometimes they marry other wives in Soudan, and
form another establishment.
Bathed again in the Spring, but found it surrounded with women, fetching
water. Contented myself with washing in one of the private washing
apartments attached to the Spring. The water was warm, but I felt
afterwards cool and refreshed. There are no public baths here as on the
coast towns. I observed the place formed of a high raised stone-bench,
just as you enter the city, (on our side) where all strangers pray. It
seems built on, the principle of some Romanist churches, which are
dedicated, like those of the ancient classic temples, to particular uses
and services. My Marabout prayed in it with devout fervour as we passed,
I being obliged to wait for him.
This evening dined with the Rais at his house for the first time. His
Excellency was extremely kind and spoke freely of the Ghadamsee people.
"These," said he, "are a people given up to prayer, and many of them
spend their time in nothing else."
I said, "Are there ten thousand people in Ghadames? So I have heard."
Astonished, he replied, "There are not five hundred men."
"Are there not several of the people travelling?"
"Only a few."
Then, talking of thieves and banditti, the Rais told me to bring my money
to his house in order that he might take care of it. On depositing it
with him he asked how much it was. There were only two hundred piastres
of Tunis, all the money I had. The Rais seemed surprised it was so little
(about _seven pounds sterling_!) I made the best of it by telling him if
I remained I must send for some more. He also recommended me not to sleep
on the top of the house, but in my room, and shut the door. However, it
is so hot that I should be suffocated if I were not to leave the door
open. In explanation, he said, "The Touaricks and other strangers are
thieves." The Rais is very sick, with bad eyes. Sent him some more
physic.
Whilst writing my journal, the house is filled with Touaricks, and I
cannot get rid of them. I am obliged therefore to enter into conversation
to amuse them.
"How large is Ghat? as large as Ghadames?"
"Bigger than Tripoli."
"Have you plenty of meat in Ghat?"
"Plenty of everything."
"I am afraid of you--you killed one of my countrymen near Timbuctoo?"
"No, no, (crying out lustily,) not the Touaricks of our country."
"Will you take me safe to Ghat?"
"Upon our lives!" (_Drawing their swords across their foreheads._)
"Have you a written language?"
"Yes."
"What's your name?" (The Touaricks to me.)
"Here, I will write it."
"Have you any medicine for the eye?"
"Yes."
I then applied some solution to the eyes of one of them. Another said:
"My son is always coughing. What shall I do for him?"
"Bring him here," I said, "in the morning, and I will give him
something."
_The Touarick._--"You won't poison him?"
_I._--"No, no."
They then entered upon a religious conversation.
"What do you think of _religion_? Do you pray?"
"Well, there is one God."
"And, Mohammed?"
"He is the prophet of the _Arabs_."
"Who is your prophet?"
"Jesus; he is Prophet of all the Christians, as Moses is the prophet of
the Jews."
(With impatience.) "But Mohammed?"
"We Christians have but one Prophet, who is Jesus."
Here an interruption took place, of which I was very glad. Afterwards
they resumed:
"Have you any powder?"
"No; I am an English Marabout, and carry no arms, and have nothing to
give away but medicines."
"Aye, an English Marabout, and not a merchant?"
"No; only a Marabout."
One of them. "We shall take your name as you have written it on this
paper, and show it to our people. It will be esteemed precious by them;
and if you ever wander that way through The Desert, they will ask you
your name, and, if you reply to it, they will not kill you, but give you
plenty of camel's milk. If they have not your name they may kill you, and
not their fault."
Had a visit from the Sheikh of the slaves. In most countries of North
Africa there is a chief appointed by Government for any particular race,
not the same as the ruling dynasty, domestic as well as foreign, which
may be resident in the towns and cities. So the Jews of Barbary have
their chiefs, and the slaves theirs. In Tunis a number of free coloured
people, called _Waraghleeah_, emigrants from the Algerian oasis of
Warklah, have also their chief or headsman. This chief has rather large
and even discretionary powers, and can order his subjects to be
imprisoned by the officers of the sovereign Government of the country.
But, of course, this imperium in imperio is subject to the supervision of
the supreme Government. The object is apparently to relieve the
Government, but whilst it relieves the higher authorities, it inflicts
irreparable injuries upon poor people, and is full of the most gigantic
abuses. It is often complained of by the Levant correspondents of
newspapers, under the character of the various spiritual tribunals of
Eastern Christians inflicting fines, torture, and imprisonment on
refractory or heretic members of those churches. The Jewish synods of
Africa and the East exercise the same arbitrary powers, under the
sanction of the supreme Mahometan authorities. Lately, however, the
European ambassadors have done something to check these abuses in the
dominions of the Porte.
After some conversation, I asked the Sheikh of the Ghadames slaves what
were his duties. Drawing himself up into a posture of authority, he
replied:--"Be it known, Oh Christian! I am the Sheikh of the slaves, my
name is Ahmed. I am from Timbuctoo. The people of Bambara are the finest
in the world. They are brave--they fear none. Now, hear me: I know all
the names of the slaves in Ghadames: I watch over all their conduct, to
punish them when they behave badly, to praise them when they do well.
They all fear me. For my trouble I receive nothing. I am a slave myself.
I rarely punish the slaves. We have always here more than two hundred. If
you wait, plenty of slaves will soon come from Soudan!"
Late to-night, Mohammed the Marabout of Rujban, left for his country and
Tripoli. I gave him some Ghadames dates to take to Tripoli as presents,
the small black dates, as a rarity, and to let the people know I had not
so much forgotten them as they had forgotten me. This clever, cunning,
selfish fellow, I completely overreached. He never believed that I had
the courage to punish his bad conduct. I had promised him, besides the
ten mahboubs (about forty shillings), the hire of the two camels from
Tripoli to Ghadames, a present, or backsheesh of two mahboubs, on his
behaving well. On paying him his ten mahboubs I told him there was no
backsheesh. At first he was astonished and looked pale, shaking in every
limb, for he expected to reap a great harvest by my affair--even a double
present to what was promised. But on reflecting that he had lamed Said,
who was still laid up, had pilfered our provisions all the way, and lived
on us by force, although the agreement was that he should keep himself,
he confessed I was right, or thought it better to make the confession.
However, he beat about the merchants, and got two or three of them to
come down to speak to me, who said, "If he has done bad, treat him bad,
that is, give him a little backsheesh." I then gave him half a dollar.
His ingenuity was never exhausted. He pretended I ought to feed the
camels two or three days after their arrival, which he said was the rule.
There is no herbage for miles in the neighbourhood of Ghadames. The
people are sometimes obliged to drive their camels to Seenawan, or Derge,
two or three days' distance, to feed. I gave way, and added a trifle. He
then begged something for his wife; he had bought her a pair of Ghadames
shoes, worked with silk, which shows an Arab can have an affectionate
remembrance for his wife, but which has been denied by some. I again
added something. He now had his supper. I gave him a feed of mutton, and
broth and bread. This was his feast before parting, for I did not like to
send him away as a blackguard, notwithstanding he had extremely annoyed
me. I never saw a person eat with such voracity. After his allowance, or
the supper I had cooked him, a large supper was sent in by the Rais for
three. He set to and ate his own and Said's share in the bargain. I have
often seen Arabs gorge in this way, but, what is most singular, when
obliged to be abstemious they scarcely eat the amount of two penny loaves
per day. Mohammed was a good type of this Arab abstemiousness and
voracity. When he kept himself, he only took a small and most frugal meal
once a day. Of his gluttony I may add, that I was obliged to separate his
mess from that of Said when he dined with me. If not, he would eat Said's
mess and his own before I could see what they were about. At last
Mohammed began to soften and to confess adroitly, for he was one of the
acutest Arabs I ever met with. He observed to me, in a whining tone, "Now
I am going, I wish to tell you something. You think me very bad, and a
great rogue, and so I am; but, I tell you, if you had had any other Arab
you would have found him a thousand times a bigger rogue than myself,
_for all the Arabs are dogs_. This is the truth: (_El-khok_.)" After this
confession, I gave him a certificate of my having arrived safe in
Ghadames under his guidance. This I could not object to do, in order that
he might show it to the Pasha and the English Consul. Some of his remarks
were full of _sel_, but mostly touched with selfishness. One evening,
looking at his camels feeding, he said, "Ah, Yâkob, see those camels eat.
It does my heart good to see them, for what am I without my camels, what
are the Arabs without the camels--are not the camels the pillars which
support the Arab's house?" At other times he would abuse his fellow
camel-drivers for coming into my tent, upbraiding them,--"What, do you
want to rob The Christian? Am not I encharged with his affairs?" Mohammed
was rather tall, and of lean habit of body, like all Arabs. His hearing
and sight were very quick, and he always seemed to sleep like a
watch-dog. His bravery I never tested. He was mostly lively and
facetious. He was good-looking, and about thirty years of age.
I saw him after my return to Tripoli. He wanted to go with me again. He
said to me, "Now you have seen all, The Mountains, The Sahara, and the
Touaricks. You know all our affairs, and everything we do." As a
literary curiosity, I shall here translate my camel-driver's account of
the route from Tripoli to Ghadames, written at my request, in which will
be seen the camel-driver's minute acquaintance with the route, and how
every wady, and well, and mountain, is particularized. This is the style
of the Saharan travellers and chroniclers.
"First Tripoli, and not far from it are palms of El-Hamabaj, and a mosque
El-Kajeej. You then proceed to Gargash, in which are palms, and along the
road the Kesar Jahaly. And you go on to Janzour, in which are palms and
two castles, one of them is called Kesar Areek, and the Kesar of the
Turkish soldiers (God curse them!) Upon the sea-shore is the mosque of
Sidi Abd-el-Jeleel. And you proceed to Seid, where are palms and the
Indian fig. And you go on to Ghafeeah, and here is cool refreshing water,
(oh! how delicious in the great heat!) and you pass the water to
El-Toubeem, where are palms, and mosques, and houses. You go on to
Zaweeah, where are palms, houses, and a Kesar for troops, and a Zaweeah
for the reading of The Sublime Koran, and mosques. You proceed thence to
Houshel, in which are palms and houses. You move on to Aabareeah, where
are palms. You now reach The Sahara, where there is a little sand; you
find in it the well of El-Hamra. Pursuing your way upon The Sahara, you
find the well of Esh-Shaibeeah. And travelling on The Sahara you find
another well called Lakhreej. You travel further on The Sahara, and find
Afoub Aaly, where there is sand, called El-Hal. And after it, you find
Wady Lethel, in which are lote-trees and the lethel, a large tree like an
olive-tree. And you travel to El-Jibel, where are houses and a Kesar for
troops. In the country called Yefran, are olive-trees and fig-trees; and
below the country (or in the plains), you find palms. And near El-Gibel,
in all the countries you find olive-trees and fig-trees, as far as the
other mountains westward. Now Rujban (my happy country, the blessing of
God on it!) has seven countries, viz.:--El-Barahem, and Tarkat, and
Sharn, and Zâferan, and Ghalat, and Zantan, and Tarbeeah.
"We mounted from Rujban and from El-Gibel, and went to Eth-Tha, where is
Koteet, between Ez-Zantan and Rujban. Thence we travelled to Wady
Souk-ej-Jeen. Thence to Haram and Et-Teen. And we travelled to
Wady-Azgheer, and afterwards Wady Walas. Thence we arrived again on The
Sahara, called El-Hamrad, which is _fertile_[20] land, and on it are
lote-trees, bearing berries (_nebek_). Now, oh Yâkob! this is not the
lote-tree in the seventh heaven, near the presence of Rubbee (God), and
which Gabriel, nor our lord Mahomet, dare not pass beyond. Alas! O Yâkob,
if you believe not in Mahomet, you cannot be near this lote-tree. It says
in the Koran, 'It covers the concealed[21].' And we ascended a hill,--a
high hill, that is to say, a little mountain. And we ascended
(descended?) to a wady, called Ahween, in which is a well on the west of
the route. And after this is Eshâab, small wadys, called Eshâab
Eth-Thoueeb, and after them is Wady Seelas, where there is a well of
water. You pass by it on the road, and come to Seenawan, in which is a
spring of water, called Spring Aly. In Seenawan are palms, and its
_ghotbah_ is like a tower (burge), built with small stones, and so of
the country (village) near it. And after this is the country Esh-Shâour,
where there is water from springs which run upon the face of the earth,
and palms and houses built with small stones. From The Mountains to
Seenawan are four days with heavily laden camels.
"Afterwards you travel and find Wady Babous Eth-Theeb. Thence there is
land, on which is sand, and in this the well of water El-Wateeah. After
there is Wady Ej-Jeefah. Then Saheer El-Maharee, and then a long stream,
in which are reeds. Afterwards you find Hinsheer El-Basasah. And after
El-Bab-Rumel ("gate of sand"), a difficult place. Thence you come to
Emjessem. All this route is Sahara; and the road from Seenawan to
Emjessen is two days' journey. After this you find the small mountains
Baârbeeah Aghour. Then you find Ghadames. There is a day's journey from
Emjessen to Ghadames."
_28th._--Early this morning made the tour of the city's walls and
gardens. Went with Said, and myself, alone. I am fond of being alone, and
would sometimes walk miles over The Desert--the caravans being not even
in sight. This _was_ solitude!
"I love all waste
And solitary places; where we taste
The pleasure of believing what we see
Is boundless, as we wish our souls to be."
It occupied us, at a moderate rate of walking, about an hour and a half,
so that the oasis may be about five miles in circumference. What a scene
of hideous desolation did the environs present--nor tree, nor herb, nor
living creature! Talk of the Poles, there is less life here! On the
west, the groups of sand-hills, which stretch ten days' journey, were all
bright as the light, and sometimes not visible from brilliancy. Some
Touaricks saw us going, and called after us; we took no notice of them.
The Rais, on my return, asked many questions, about what I thought of the
city, and observed, "These poor fools think there's no city like theirs,
but what would they think if they saw Stamboul? Those who have not seen
Stamboul have not seen the world!" The walls of the city of Ghadames,
like the houses, are built mostly of sun-dried bricks, but parts of small
stones and earth. They are in a ruinous condition, and in many places
open to The Desert. But within these outer walls are garden-walls and
winding paths, so that the approaches to the city are difficult, except
by the southern gate. Formerly, four or five gates were open, but the
Rais has shut them all but this one for security, as well as facility in
collecting the octroi, or gate-dues.
The greater part of the camels of our ghafalah left today, but unladen,
there being no Soudan goods now in Ghadames. These camels belong to The
Mountains, and are hired by the merchants to convey their goods between
this and Tripoli. The ordinary price paid is two dollars per camel. The
weight the camel carries is from two to three cantars.
This afternoon had a visit from the Touarick women, and was astonished to
find some of them _almost fair_. They were pretty and plump, coquettish
and saucy, asking a thousand questions. It is evident the men are dark
simply from exposure to the sun. I regaled them with _medicine_ and tea.
This party belongs nearly all to Touat. They want to prevail upon me to
go with them. I am almost inclined. Two men, who came with the women,
assured me I should go safe and sound. I believe I could, provided I go
as poor as a beggar, distributing only medicines. This evening dined
again with the Rais. He is now a little better, and puts his charms over
his eyes, as if the charms cured them, and not the caustic of nitrate of
silver. His Excellency talked of the affairs of the city; he pretends the
antiquity of Ghadames goes back four thousand years, to the times of
Nimrod and Abraham. The people of the town, I suppose, have told him so;
but where is their authority? He says of _present_ matters,--"The people
pay 6,000 mahboubs per annum; it is too small a sum for a city of
merchants; there is little money in the country, it being mostly
deposited in the hands of merchants in Tripoli; he wishes Christians
established here, and a regular souk, or market, opened; the number of
Arab troops which he has here is 120; he is building barracks and a
fondouk at Emjessen, in order to station troops there to guard the wells,
for the banditti come there and drink water, and then lie in ambush to
plunder caravans." This building of forts at wells is a wise and
efficient measure; the same thing has been done at the oasis of Derge.
The Rais receives his pay _direct_ from the Sultan of Constantinople; his
appointment is quite uncertain; he is a native of Erzeroum; he took part
in the Turco-English campaign in Syria, served under General Jochmus, and
was acquainted with many English officers. He has been at Constantinople,
Smyrna, Malta, and many other parts of the Upper Mediterranean.
People complain that the gardens languish for want of money to cultivate
them; not more than half of the date-trees bear fruit this year, owing
entirely to the want of labour and irrigation. People have to purchase
water. I have seen no birds in the oasis up to this time.
The greater part of yesterday and to-day occupied in distributing
medicines. Afraid I shall soon finish my stock. The medicines were
furnished by the British Consul-General of Tripoli, at the expense of
Government; there were only five pounds-sterling worth. Ramadan begins in
a few days; then I shall not have so many customers. Then the Moors cast
physic to the dogs.
_29th._--Went this morning to see the Souk. At the time of my visit there
were only a few tomatas, peppers, a little olive-oil, and some grain,
wheat and barley, exposed for sale. Passed a butcher's, where a whole
camel was killed and cut up. Told in this way it fetches about thirty
shillings. Paid a visit to my runaway Turjeman, who said he would call
upon me this evening.
Observe the Rais employs, in his administration, all strangers, either
Arabs or Tripolines, or people from Derge and Seenawan. How true are the
principles of despotism! This is upon the same principle as the
employment of the Swiss at Naples; in both cases the despotic government
cannot trust the people. The Rais is very busy in collecting the
half-yearly tax: he works with surprising zeal from morning to night--a
zeal worthy of a better cause.
I am told the nearest route from here to Tunis is _viâ_ Douwarat (or
Duerat), a portion of the Atlas where is situate Shninnee. This village,
scattered over all the hills, is three days from Ghabs and seven from
Ghadames. The Souf Arabs tell me there is no water for seven days in
summer and twelve in winter, on the road they came from their country to
Ghadames, the difference being the length of days. The well is called
Beer-es-Saf, and sometimes Beer-ej-Jadeed. The route lies entirely
through sand, N.W. This region of sand is the celebrated hunting-place of
the Souf Arabs.
Dined again with the Rais this evening. His Excellency complained that
the Ghadamsee people show him scarcely any attention. He never receives
the smallest present, neither a few dates, nor a melon, nor a vegetable;
he buys and is obliged to buy everything[22]. I thought myself more
fortunate than the Rais, for I have received several little presents from
various individuals. His Excellency says he never punishes the people
except for _abusive language_ to one another, and than he only gives them
twenty or fifty strokes of the bastinado. In this respect he says,
"Ghadames may be compared to Paradise, there being no crime in it." His
Excellency repeated that the greater number of the resident inhabitants,
who do not travel abroad, spend their time in reading, writing, and
prayer--that, emphatically, this is _a Marabout city_.
_30th._--Occupied two or three hours this morning in administering
medicine and visiting the sick. My turjeman came back and apologized; he
said the people were fanatic. Received a visit from Haj-el-Beshir, eldest
son of the Sheikh Makouran. He said his father had been twice to
Timbuctoo, and resident there many years, and would give me some
information. The Rais says there's no Sheikh of the slaves, and adds,
"I'm the Sheikh of the slaves." This again is not correct, as the people
all told me, there must be a headman or Sheikh of the slaves in all
countries. Had a visit from two young men who were quite free from the
prejudices of their countrymen. They told me to take courage, "that God
was the Maker of Christians as well as Mohammedans, that in this city no
one could do me harm, but I was not to expose myself to the ignorant." I
seem, indeed, to get on better with the people, their prejudices
apparently are beginning to give way; I shall be able to open the way for
some other person. The father of one of my young friends has been now
twelve years in Kanou; when he returns he brings a fortune.
Speaking to the Rais of the Ghadamsee people, I asked him what they did
for soldiers before the Turks came? He replied, "These people are not
soldiers and never had soldiers; they are like women and children; if any
body came from The Desert to plunder, he stole what he pleased and was
allowed to go away unmolested. They depended upon God and prayer for
their protection. You see I told you these people were dervishes." Still
there is reason to believe that if they did not fight themselves, as, at
the present time, they got their quondam but powerful friends, the
Touaricks, to fight for them.
This afternoon saw some doves in the gardens; and also a small flight of
birds hovering over the city, perhaps there were twenty. These birds were
called _arnout_, and have very long bills and necks. When the men leave
off working at the wells, they dart down to drink. The palm-groves are
the favourite resort of the doves, as poetical as natural. Animals, and
especially birds, are so rare in those regions that every sight of them
is worthy of mention; indeed, these are the first birds I have seen since
I left Tripoli. No meat to be had to-day in Souk. People usually club
together and buy a whole sheep: they then kill it, and divide it into so
many portions according to the number of purchasers; so that meat is
rarely exposed publicly for sale, and it is necessary to join these
private purchasers. Purchase-money is always paid down at once and not on
delivery. The meat is never weighed but divided at guess. When any
disagreement takes place lots are drawn for the division.
During the four or five days of my residence here, the weather has been
comparatively temperate; at least, I have not felt the heat excessive.
To-day has been close and cloudy: no sun in the afternoon: wind hot,
_ghiblee_. I continue to be an object of curiosity amongst the people,
and am followed by troops of boys. A black from Timbuctoo was astonished
at the whiteness of my skin, and swore I was bewitched. The Ghadamsee
Moors eat sugar like children, and are as much pleased with a suck of it.
The young men carry it about in little bags to suck. The Rais is
sometimes called _Bey_ by the people and sometimes _Sultan_, but by the
low people, not the better classes. Here, as elsewhere, the lower classes
are the more servile.
_31st._--Went this morning to buy meat, but got some with great
difficulty. Passed some Touaricks, who showed an excessive arrogance in
their manners. They look upon the Ghadamsee people with great disdain,
considering them as so many sheep which they are to protect from the
wolves of The Sahara. Met several of the merchants I knew at Tripoli.
They asked me how I liked their city, and if better than Tripoli. I
always replied, _Haier_ (better). It is singular that though these
merchants are so enterprising themselves in the interior of Africa, they
cannot conceive of the possibility of a Christian coming so far from home
into The Desert, and when I tell them I wish to go to Soudan, or Bornou,
or Timbuctoo, they look at me with incredulity and say, "No, no, you
cannot go so far, you will die, or the people will kill you." They have
not the least idea of the courage and enterprise of European tourists,
nor can they understand their objects. But these their objections may be
founded in jealousy of us Christians.
The following is a nice neat facsimile specimen of the writing of a young
taleb and Ghadamsee Marabout, one of the best I have seen in The Desert.
It is a bill of sale, consisting of gold--slaves, male and
female--bullocks' skins--pillow-cases--elephant's teeth--senna--bekhour
(perfume)--camels--sacks--and (I think) household slaves.
[Illustration]
The young taleb showed great consequence and presented me with the
original. He observed that a metegal of gold is of the value of 33½
Tunisian piastres. I said, "Will you come to my house and I will show you
an Arabic book (the Bible) containing the religion of the Jews and
Christians?"
_The Taleb_: "I, I enter the house of an infidel! God preserve me!"
"Oh!" I observed, "you are afraid of me and my books--my books _will bite
you_." Hereupon all the people present burst into a loud laugh, and the
taleb looked quite crest-fallen.
Many people blind with one eye, and some with two eyes, come to me to be
cured, but I can do nothing for them. One poor old man comes every
morning. I wash his eyes with a solution of the Goulard powders. He,
though nearly seventy years of age, still lives in the hopes of
recovering his sight. How faithful a companion of the unfortunate is
hope! The Touaricks use mustard for bad fingers and hands. They also cut
and carve their backs for blood-letting, and the marks remain for years
upon years. I saw one of them whose back was scarred and scarified all
over.
This morning visited my turjeman at his house. The house is a
_mezzonina_, having no ground-floor apartments; the parlour, or grand
room, or hall, was surrounded, to my surprise, with small apartments, in
which three or four sheep were fattening, as people fatten pigs. The
sheep is with the Ghadamsee people what the pig is with the Irish, their
_dii penates_. There was also another story above this, the
sleeping-room; and then on the terrace, or flat roof, are other little
rooms. All the apartments were exceedingly small, but their situation
high. Stone stairs lead from one room to another. The turjeman told me
all the houses were built in the same manner, but some larger. Indeed
some houses are four stories high, besides the terrace. The lower rooms
are mostly used as magazines. As soon as I ascended the staircase, the
wife of the turjeman pretended to take fright, and hid herself in a
private apartment. At another time when I called, and her husband was
absent, she came out to see me, and collected all the women in two or
three neighbours' houses to see The Christian. It is the husband the
woman of Africa is frightened at, and not the stranger. The tyranny of
men over the sex of feebler bodily frame is co-extensive with the
population of the world. It is the same in Paris, in London, Calcutta,
and The Desert. But the principle of women-seeing in Ghadames and all
North Africa is simply this: "If the woman is poor, or the husband poor,
she may be seen; if rich, she cannot be seen." A pretty woman will,
however, always try to let you see her face if she can.
There is a very good-natured black dervish always about the streets, but
clean and well-dressed. Ordinarily amongst these saints filth and piety
go hand in hand. They abhor the proverb of cleanliness being next to
godliness. The poor fellow is very fond of me, is running in and out of
my house all day long. I always shake hands with him when I meet him. The
Moors approve my conduct and say: "Ah, Yâkob, he's a saint." Once the
cunning fellow, when he noticed a lot of half-caste women anxious to see
me, took hold of my head and turned me completely round to show my face
to them. He has some sense, good simpleton, and is without malice;
consequently a great favourite with the people. A pity all madmen were
not like this poor dervish. Yet how many would be as harmless and beloved
as he if they were not confined, and caged, and chained, in civilized and
Christian madhouses! The dog knows I'm a _kafer_, and said to my
camel-driver, the day of my arrival, "Why did you bring the Christian to
our holy city?" chiding him.
This afternoon we went to see the Touaricks "play with
camels"--يلعبوا مع الجمل--that is,
perform a sort of camel-race. Strange coincidence of civilized and
barbarian life! This was the Epsom and Ascot of The Desert. But I
was never more disappointed. All that the Touaricks did with their
camels was, they dressed them out most fantastically with various
coloured leather harness, that is to say, the withers, neck, and
head; they reined them up tightly like blood-horses; and then rode
them a full trot in couples. This was the whole of the grand play
with camels. Some, however, would not fall into this trot of
couples, and grumbled terrifically. The Touaricks who rode these
restive camels were saluted by the spectators with loud laughter,
the effect of which was painted sullenly in their faces. I never saw
men look so _couldn't help it_ like. One of them was a young
Touarick who had been saucy to me. I was not displeased to see him
in this _triste_ position. The camels were the genuine Maharee, of
course; the Touaricks have no other camels. The men were dressed out
also in their gayest barbaric finery. A tent was dressed up, around
which squatted a group of Desert jockies, with their fierce spears
bristling above in the sun before them, like the lords of creation.
Even a banner floated gaily in the bright sun from the tent top. A
great concourse of Ghadamsee spectators were present, one of whom
swore to me that a Maharee once passed from Ghadames to Tripoli IN
ONE DAY, but that the rider died instantly from exhaustion, on his
arrival. Another Maharee outstripped the wind, but as it was a
strong cold wind, the animal died when it got into hot atmosphere,
to which the tempest was driving.
Had a long conversation with a Touarick about a journey to Timbuctoo. I
offered him five hundred dollars to escort me; but, to deposit the money
in the hands of the Governor of Ghadames, or a respectable merchant, till
my and his safe return. Said I would take nothing with me but medicines,
and a little provision, and go in _formâ pauperis_, as a dervish or
doctor. All the Ghadamsee people present approved this way of going, and
admired its wisdom, as removing all temptation to attack me, or to steal
anything from me when I had nothing to steal. But the Touarick could not
come up to the scratch, and was frightened to take upon himself the
responsibility, observing, "You are a Christian; the people of Timbuctoo
will kill you unless you confess Mahomet to be the prophet of God."
Dined this evening with the Rais. His Excellency said: "Formerly, when
Ghadames was governed by the Moorish Bashaws, the people paid little or
nothing. There are but three or four rich persons now here, the rest are
poor, or have only a few mahboubs to carry on a petty trade." At night,
the streets are enveloped in pitch darkness, whether the moon be up or
not. I endeavoured to persuade the Rais to make the people light up the
town with a few lamps, having oil enough in them to last till midnight.
"Good," he observed, "but the people say it was always so, and it must be
so still. What can I do?" There are no coffee-houses in Ghadames; people
drink coffee inside their houses. I threatened the merchants to set up
Said as a _kahwagee_, (coffee-house keeper). They laughed, and said,
"None will buy." For conversation people collect in groups round shops,
in the _Souk_, or in little squares near the mosques, where there are
many stone benches for reclining on, or in some quiet dark nook and
corner, where, when you expect to find no one, you fall foul of a retired
circle of gossips, squatting down in utter darkness. These Saharan
streets are veritable catacombs.
_1st September._--This morning, wonderful! It broke with a few drops of
rain; to me most pleasant, and welcomed as falling pearls of nectar. At
noon the sky became as dry and inflamed as ever. Went to the Spring early
to bathe. Found it surrounded with women, nearly all half-castes and
female slaves. They pretended to be in a great fright, as all were
washing and dabbling in the water. I came away. A man said, "The
Christian must not go to the well in the morning, but only in the
evening." There seems to be a tacit understanding, that from day-break to
a couple of hours afterwards, the women shall have possession of the
well, for purification purposes, according to the rites of religion.
This morning took coffee with the Rais; as no one was present, he began
talking politics. "By a little and a little," he said, "we shall take
possession of Ghat. We can't do it by force, it would require some
thousand men to take it by arms. The Touaricks are all robbers and
devils." I asked him if he would not like to occupy Touat. He replied,
"No, there's another Sultan there, and another people. There are two
Sultans in the world, one in the East and one in the West
(_Muley-Abd-Errahman_). Ghat we might take. At Touat we are too near the
French, and might quarrel with them. All the freebooters come from Tunis.
The Bey has no power or authority over the Arabs there. His government is
bad; he's a madman. Our Pasha has often written to him about these
freebooters, but it's no use. The English and the Sultan are one, and
always friends, whatever may be the condition of the rest of the world."
Speaking of me:--"You are mad to think of going to Timbuctoo; you are
sure to have your throat cut."
I allow all persons, rich and poor, young and old, men and women, to come
and see me. At the same time I make a distinction between those who are
likely to be useful to me and mere idle intruders. All the Arab soldiers
come, and, in general, though poor and thievish, they have less of
prejudices, and like the English better than the Ghadamsee people. This
city has not yet felt the benefit of English influence, and interference
in Tripoli, and therefore the merchants have not the same reasons for
being friendly to the English as the Arabs of The Mountains and the
townspeople of Tripoli. All the Ghadamseeah agree with me, that the
camel-playing of the Touaricks was a failure. Five slaves are leaving for
Tripoli. The poor things complained of having nothing to eat; I sent Said
with some victuals for them. The people continue to be friendly, and the
merchants, whose acquaintance I made in Tripoli, very much so. The
steward of the Rais has arrived from Tripoli in fourteen days. His whole
party consisted of six camels and five persons. So much for the pretended
insecurity of the route! He is dressed in the Turco-European costume,
like indeed the Rais himself. To-day the mother of Essnousee, my friend,
was bitten by a scorpion. I administered Goulard solution to the part,
and gave her fever-powder, as she was very hot and her belly swollen. She
died the next day.
Dined again with the Rais. He says, scorpions are in great numbers in
this city, because it is ancient, and particularly they abound in the old
mosques where the people do not live or perform domestic matters. "No
person," he added, "is secure from them, and it is all destined whether
we are bitten, and die or not." The Touarick again assured me that he
spoke the truth, he did not flatter me, by telling me he could take me to
Timbuctoo, when he could not; but yet, if I could make friends with some
respectable merchant of Touat, they might succeed. A son of the Sheikh
Makouran is now in Timbuctoo. The Sheikh himself gave me a detailed
account of the city; he has been there twice. The old gentleman, when he
had finished his narrative, thought the time was come for me to assist
him. He begged me to intercede with the British Consul at Tripoli for
him, that he might not be taxed by the Bashaw so much. He now pays two
hundred dollars per annum, assessed taxes. He assured me that all the
money is leaving the country, and Ghadames will soon be without a para,
like the rest of Tripoli. He told me frankly that he had the idea of
making me a partner in his firm, to get my protection, but on hearing I
was opposed to slave-dealing, it could not be done, as he and all the
merchants were obliged to deal in slaves. Indeed, the obstacle of
English merchants joining the Tripoline is at present insuperable, on
account of the slave traffic; if they could unite in one firm, it would
be equally advantageous for both parties.
_2nd._--Not so many patients this morning. A respectable Ghadamsee came
to me to beg medicine to assist in conjugal pleasures. I told him to eat,
drink, and take a journey from home for two months.
Although, according to the Italian almanack, the new moon is on the 1st,
yet as the people have not seen it, there is no Ramadan, (properly
_Ramtham_.) The Rais says, after the first ten days' keeping the fast it
is not difficult, but, during this period, the adult Mussulmans suffer
exceedingly. Afraid I shall find them all ill-natured during the fast.
Besides, they can't stomach seeing Infidels eat, whilst they the Faithful
fast.
Supped with the Rais. His fowl flew away, and left him without meat for
supper. "_Maktoub_," he said, laughing. The Mussulmans are extravagantly
fond of rice, but they never prepare it in that nice delicious way in
which we do, with milk, or in rice pudding. It is always covered with
fat, and soon surfeits one. His Excellency and his servants played
practical jokes on the black dervish. First, they bastinadoed the
dervish, and then he bastinadoed the Rais's servants. But the dervish did
it in reality, and so effectually, that after two or three strokes, they
jumped up, for he laid it on under all the force of his witless revenge.
When in a passion, or excited, he speaks his native lingo of Soudan, but
when cool he speaks Arabic and Ghadamsee. He became mad, _en route_, by
grief in being ravished from his country. These practical jokes were
played off under the sanction of his Excellency, before all the people in
the streets.
The prevalent diseases at this season, are diarrhœa and ophthalmia, with
occasional cases of fever. The diarrhœa arises from the people's eating
unripe or bad fruit, particularly melons, the ophthalmia from frequent
exposure to the sun during the past hot months. The camel-drivers also
bring it into the city, and it is so propagated by infection. One of my
patients is dead, a little boy, afflicted with diarrhœa for three months.
His father, in relating his death to me, spoke with a resignation which
might be imitated, but could not be surpassed by a Christian. It is
amazing how the thought of all-powerful and resistless destiny calms the
mind, and tones it down to a speechless patience! My stock of drugs is
fast going. It consisted originally of worm-powders, emetics (of which
the Arabs and Moors are very fond), fever powders, purgative pills, Epsom
salts, compound opium pills, Goulard powders, eye powders, sulphate of
quinine pills, and solution of nitrate of silver. They were made up by
Dr. Dickson, of Tripoli. I was surprised to find nothing for pectoral
complaints. Many persons here are troubled with chronic diseases of this
sort. Although administering medicines these eight days to some fifty
persons or more, not one of them has offered me anything in turn. There
are no guinea or five-guinea fees here. On the contrary, some have asked
me for sugar and money before they could be persuaded to take the
medicine. Such is the consolation of doing good. Verily the philosopher
had it when he said, "Virtue must be loved for its own sake." Here I may
mention that the Commandant Omer of our caravan got into a great passion
because I would not buy him a pair of shoes, and left for The Mountains,
without coming to bid me good bye. He had had coffee and tea, and
provisions always with me, _en route_, and I thought this enough. Unless
the last favour or request is granted, all former favours are counted
nothing.
_3rd._--The morning opens cool and pleasant, and the heat begins
gradually to leave us. People expect rain in ten days.
Another Touarick has come forward to offer to conduct me to Timbuctoo. He
says now is the time to go, when it is hot the banditti do not infest the
routes, for they find no water to drink. He offers to take me for five
hundred dollars, which is to be deposited in the hands of the Sheikh
Makouran, and is not to be paid until our safe return. He will allow me
to stop a month or six weeks in the city of Timbuctoo. The distances of
routes which he gives me, are the same as those on M. Carette's map,
attached to his brochure on the commerce of The Desert. Of all the French
writers who have recently written on Africa, M. Carette is most correct.
Wrote down a vocabulary of Ghadamsee words from my turjeman's dictation.
Whilst I was lamenting the little gratitude, or rather none, which the
people showed for my medicines, an old man, to whose mother-in-law (he
having married a woman forty years younger than himself, frequently the
case here,) I gave some pills, brought me a melon, and said he should
bring also some dates. I was conversing with a group at the time, and I
took the opportunity of observing that doctors were paid amongst us. An
upstart man angrily replied:--"Yes, but we are the chosen people of God!
you Infidels are bound to serve us in every way, and ought to be thankful
that you are so honoured as to be the servants and slaves of The
Moumeneen. You think you are clever, but your talents are not your own;
your knowledge comes from God." These affronting words contain a common
fanatic sentiment of Barbary. I made no reply.
Went at noon to visit the Arab suburb, and was a great curiosity amongst
the women and children. Some of the little girls were frightened out of
their wits, but the boys took up stones to pelt me. The suburb contains
about five hundred souls; the houses are all miserable, and the people
poor. A genuine Ghadamsee would not live here without being degraded: it
is the St. Giles of the city. Went into a house, the walls of which were
completely concealed beneath the covers for dishes and meats, bowls and
calabashes, the greater part brought from Soudan. The people were dealers
in them. Talking with the Rais about Soudan, he displayed the usual
ignorance of Mussulmans, even in The Desert, of this country. It would
take a person five years to travel through that vast country, many parts
of which were populated by cannibals. We read of the Lemlems, Lamlams,
and the Yemyems, as cannibals, somewhere in the neighbourhood of Zegzeg
and Yakobah; but after conversing with several of the merchants who have
scoured Soudan and Bornou, I have not found one who has seen these
terrible cannibals. They have all _heard_ of them. It appears to me to be
an ancient tale of wonder to adorn the narratives of travellers.
This evening being that previous to the Ramadan, a great outcry was made
to see the moon. According to my Italian almanack it should be three
days' old, the geographical position of the two countries may make a
difference as to a sight of it. There is a little display of firing off
pistols, chiefly by boys. A vast number of persons question me, as to
whether I shall fast (_soum_) to-morrow; and a Touarick goes bolt up to
the Governor, and says, to his Excellency, pointing to where I am
sitting,--"Does this (man) fast?" His Excellency shakes his head and
laughs gravely. To questions put direct to me, I answer, "a little." A
boy says to me, "Why, how now, every body fasts, and you don't fast!" It
is, however, prudent to avoid all these questions. I told some more
liberal:--"The English eat and drink at all seasons that which is good;
but some Christian nations occasionally fast." According to the Moslemite
rite here observed, all under _thirteen_ may eat during the Ramadan; but,
other authorities tell me, all under _eight_. Those who travel are
excused for the time being. The fast endures thirty days. Another patient
brought me a few dates. In time I may alter my opinion of Ghadamsee
gratitude. Some new patients, nearly all ophthalmia and diarrhœa.
Visited to-day the two wells, which serve a portion of the population, in
addition to the great spring. It is surprising what an interest I take in
water. It is to me like precious gold, and the most fine gold. One of
these wells has better water than the central running spring. They are
large wells, but do not run like the great spring: they are also only a
little warm. In the winter they rise higher, showing some connexion with
the rainy season in the _rainy_ region. Two men were employed in drawing
water in a curious manner. The other buckets were not being worked. One
end of the shaft is made very heavy, so as to assist in bringing up the
water by over-balancing on a swivel; the other end, to which the cord and
bucket is attached, is correspondingly light.
[Illustration]
The houses of Ghadamsee are one, two, three, four, and even five stories
high; the greater part three or four stories. The architecture is
ordinarily Moorish, with some Saharan fantastic peculiarities. The public
buildings offer nothing remarkable; even the mosques, in a place so
devoted to religion, have no pretty minarets. There are four large
mosques, viz.: Jemâ Kebir,--Tinghaseen,--Yerasen,--Eloweenah; and many
smaller mosques and sanctuaries. The streets are all covered in and dark,
(a peculiarity prevailing in many Saharan cities,) with here and there
open spaces or little squares, of which there are several to let in the
light of heaven. They are small and narrow, and winding, not more than a
couple of camels can pass abreast, the ceiling however being high enough
to admit the entrance of the tall Maharee camel. A camel of this species
entered to-day: it amazed me by its stupendous height; a person of
average size might have walked under its belly. The principal streets and
squares are lined with stone-benches, on which the people loungingly
recline or stretch themselves. Both houses and streets are admirably
adapted for the climate, protecting the inhabitants alike from the fiery
glare of the summer's sun, and the keen blasts of the winter's cold.
Before the Rais Mustapha's appointment, the city had, besides smaller and
inner gates, four principal ones, viz., Bab-el-Manderah, Bab-esh-Shydah,
Bab-el-Mishrah, and Bab-el-Bur ("gate of the country"), all of which,
except the last on the south-west, are now closed, with respect to the
entrance of goods and camels. The city is situate on the south-east side
of the plantations of palms and gardens, not in the central part of the
oasis. I asked the talebs the meaning of some of the names of the gates,
but they could not tell. Many proper names of places and persons, amongst
them as with us, have now no assignable meaning or derivation.
FOOTNOTES:
[20] Here we find The Sahara called _fertile_ land; and, in fact,
many parts of The Desert could be cultivated.
[21] See Surat Liii., entitled "The Star."
[22] This complaint is not well founded, for afterwards I saw the
Rais often receive presents of fruit, tobacco, sugar, and even
wearing apparel.