I hoped the fact was not so. “My experience would say it is,” was

the answer. “To what class of men do you allude, in particular,

Mr. Brougham?” “To your foreign ministers, especially,” he said. I

thought this very extraordinary, and said as much, and, as something

might depend on the character of the individual, I begged him to name

one of those who left this impression behind him. He did, mentioning,

without reserve, a distinguished minister of the republic, who is

now dead. To all this, I could only say, that I supposed a mistaken

desire to make themselves agreeable must have been at the bottom of

such a course; and here the conversation dropped, by mutual consent.

I do not know whether this conversation will strike you as it struck

me, for I confess it would seem that we have some “country laid”

ministers, or our ministers have felt confident of having had very

“country laid” constituents.

Mr. Brougham was desirous of knowing how we contrive to print books

so cheaply, as he had understood we did, labour being so dear. He

had been told that Scott’s novels were sold for a dollar a copy. The

secret of this fact, is to be found in the meanness of execution,

the extent and the rapidity of the demand, and most of all, in the

circumstance, that the author is paid nothing. A reprint, moreover,

is not made from a manuscript, and has no alterations, and few

corrections. In addition to all this, the press correction of books,

is immeasurably more accurate and laboured in England, than in

America. Men of education are employed here, as proof readers, and,

perhaps, most of the popular authors of England, have very little

knowledge of the grammar of their own language. All these people must

be paid, and the money is charged against the work.

A novel, of no great merit, will bring its author four or five

hundred pounds in England, especially if it be at all supposed to

bring the reader in contact with the feelings and sentiments of the

“nobility and gentry.” So profound is the deference of those who live

in shadow, for those who are beneath the sun’s rays, in this country,

that the price of a lord’s pen, is considerably higher, than that of

a commoner’s! I dare say, it will be a new idea to you, to measure

literary merit by a pedigree, but it is a mode much practised here. A

lady of condition, lately offered a novel to a fashionable publisher,

and the answer was, “two hundred if anonymous, and five hundred with

the name of the author;” the latter, you will understand, having no

other value than that of rank, the book being a first effort. An

application was made to me, to contribute to an annual, and, by way

of inducement, I was shown a list of those who had engaged to write

for it, among whom, were six or eight lords. Curious to know, how far

these people submitted to vulgar considerations, I put the question,

and was given to understand, that they were not only paid as writers,

but paid as lords. The moon may not be made of green cheese, but rely

on it, could we get near enough to discover its substance, it would

turn out essentially different from any thing we imagine.

There was a boy, the heir of a very high title, at one of my late

breakfasts. He went away the first, to go to school, I fancy, and the

master of the house made the mistake of leaving us, while he went to

the ante-chamber, to see the lad off. When he returned, he came up

to me, with a momentous manner, and muttered, “three earldom’s in

the family!” I was compelled to compare this, with the total absence

of fuss about boys and girls of rank on the continent of Europe.

Just before we left Paris, at a child’s ball, a little girl, who was

selected to dance with one of the princes, was told by her mother, to

say, “monseigneur,” in speaking to her partner. After they had got a

little warmed with the exercise, the pretty little thing turned round

to the boy and said—“why am I to call you ‘_monseigneur_,’ are you a

bishop?” “_Je n’en sais rien, moi_,” was the answer. There is young

——, he is the heir of vast estates, of palaces without number, and of

a collection of pictures and statuary alone, that would constitute

a large fortune. There are five or six principalities in the family,

and when he is married, he is to take one of these titles, until he

succeeds to the ancient and historical distinctive appellation of

his race. But, at present, no one calls him by any thing but his

Christian name, although nearly a man!

It appears to me, that the nobles of this country, themselves,

make very little parade of their claims, but that the fuss comes

principally from those who deem it an honour to be their associates.

Nothing more deranges the philosophy of one of the true devotees of

rank here, than to find that others do not worship the idol with the

same zeal as himself.

LETTER XXI.

TO RICHARD COOPER, ESQUIRE, COOPERSTOWN.

Perhaps, I ought not to confess the weakness, but we have actually

been to see the tower. Luckily, the “lions” have been sold, so we

escaped the most vulgar part of the exhibition.

The tower proper, is a square building, with four turrets, or rather

towers at the angles, and is by no means large, though it is said to

be as ancient as the conquest. The Romans are thought to have had

a fortress, at, or near, its site. In addition to this building,

however, there is a little dingy town around it, principally built

of bricks, and surrounded by a ditch and walls. The latter have

regular bastions, and the former is wide, deep, and wet, feeling the

influence of the tides of the river, for the whole stand immediately

on its banks.

This place has been so often described, that I shall say little

beyond our general impressions. It struck us as much less imposing

than Vincennes, though venerable by time and associations. The tower

itself will not compare with the donjon of Vincennes, its French

counterpart, and the adjuncts, are equally below those of the Tower

of Paris.

The collection of armour disappointed us greatly, being altogether

less interesting, than the fine specimens of the _musée de

l’artillerie_, near the church of St. Thomas d’Aquin; a museum of

whose existence nine Frenchmen in ten seem to be profoundly ignorant,

while it is one of the most curious things in Europe. Unfortunately,

some musty antiquarian has lately robbed the armour of the tower,

of all claims to be considered genuine, or as appertaining to the

persons of the great men, on whose effigies it is displayed, and

therein he has annihilated most of its interest. “Where ignorance is

bliss, ’tis folly to be wise.” I wish, with all my heart, the man had

not been half so learned, for, like a novel by Scott, or a play by

Shakspeare, in this case the fiction was probably more interesting,

than the reality. We ought not to quarrel with truth, however, since

there is little danger of our getting too much of it.

Of course, we looked at the regalia, but with little interest, for

it is not handsome, and I suspect most of the stones are false. The

precaution is used, of showing it by the light of a lamp. A crown,

notwithstanding, is a famous sight for the English multitude. I would

rather take, at random, one of the cases of precious articles, in

the Louvre, or at the _Jardins des Plantes_, than the imperial crown

of Great Britain. What between the Stuarts, and some of the later

princes, your _bonâ fide_ jewels must have been made of steel to

withstand their rapacity. Depend on it, had the crown been worth any

thing, James II. would have looked to it, although he ran away from

his kingdom.

There are some curious old implements of war, here; but, by no means

as many, or as rare, as in the collection at Paris. They showed us

the axe with which Anna Boleyn was beheaded, and, sure enough, it was

a weapon to make quick work of a “little neck.” I was most struck

with a sword or two, that I could not hold at arm’s length, and which

would really seem to demonstrate, that as our minds expand, our

bodies shrink. Will the day ever come when matter shall disappear

altogether, to give place to the ethereal essence of the spirit? The

sight of these swords, and of that of some of the armour, is the

first position proved, in demonstrating the existence of giants, and

where are they to-day?

I went to dine with —— ——, on our return. This gentleman had been

civil enough to send me two or three invitations, and I now went

a little out of my way to manifest a sense of his persevering

politeness. I was the first there; but a large party came pouring in

immediately after, not a soul of whom had I ever seen before. The

old Earl of ——, the Earl of ——, the son of the chief of the Irish

volunteers, and his wife, Lord ——, Sir —— ——, and many others were

announced, in quick succession. Finding it awkward to stand in a

crowd with no one to speak to, I looked at the pictures, of which the

house was full. While engaged in this way, a young man came up and

spoke to me. It was civil in him, for it appeared to me that he saw

I was a stranger; the only stranger in the party, and wished to be

polite accordingly. We conversed a few minutes, at a window, that was

a little removed from the rest of the company.

They have become punctual at London, and I do not think it was

fifteen minutes from the time I entered, before dinner was announced.

Each of the men took a lady, for there happened to be pretty nearly a

tie, and disappeared, leaving my companion and myself standing where

we were, by the window. He seemed uneasy, and I thought the movement,

a rare specimen of extreme delicacy of deportment. The only stranger,

and he old enough to be the father of some of the young men who had

dashed ahead of him, was left standing in the drawing-room, as if he

were a part of the furniture! I looked hard at my companion, to see

if he had the family physiognomy, but he had not, and then I ventured

to observe, “that if we were to dine with the rest of them, it might

not be amiss to follow.”

As we are endeavouring to trace national manners, I will relate

an anecdote that occurred just before I left Paris. Madame de ——

invited G—— to a great dinner, where he was the only stranger, with

the exception of an unexpected guest. That person happened to be

Count Capo d’Istrias, the president elect of Greece. Just before

dinner was announced, G—— removed to a little distance from the lady

of the house, for his invitation had been so worded as to give him

reason to think that the entertainment was a compliment to himself,

and he could not for an instant dream of preferring claims in

competition with M. Capo d’Istrias. Madame de —— took the arm of the

president elect, and walking towards him, she did him the favour to

present him to Mad. de Talleyrand, who was of the party, and whom he

had the honour of leading to the dinner table. These are trifles, but

they are just the trifles that mark the difference between the social

tact of London, and that of Paris.

I could not divest myself of the idea, that had I been any thing but

an American, this cutting neglect would not have occurred; and when

I found that precisely the lowest seat at the table was left for

me, I endeavoured to recall that passage in Holy Writ, where one is

directed to take the lowest place at a feast, as a course good for

the soul. Although we have no established religion in America, I will

be bold enough to say, that no one else, that day, bethought him of

this text.

My companion, after all, proved to be a connexion of the family,

for the seat, at the foot of the table, had been left for him. The

master of the house sat at the other end, and the mistress in the

centre, according to the French mode; so you will perceive I was

literally _in extremis_, at this banquet. So much care having been

taken of myself, I felt curious to see in what manner the others had

been provided for. A swarthy, dark-haired common-looking young man

sat on the right of the mistress of the house, while old Lord ——, who

was a full general in the army, occupied a more humble situation.

This young man was also a soldier, for I heard him talking of a

campaign he had made, but, by his years, he could not have been more

than a colonel, at most, if as high in the army. Of course he must

have been of a political or social rank higher than either of the two

earls, and this, in England, would give him precedence of his own

father! I believe he was the Duke of ——.

A handsome, well-mannered young man sat on my left. Indeed, our end

of the table was pretty much occupied by the boys, and I began to

apprehend a roasting on account of a few gray hairs that time is

scattering around my temples. They were well-behaved lads, however;

I suppose, on account of their being in parliament, as I found, by

the conversation, was the case with the whole of them. They had all

been rowing on the Thames, that morning, and as I had urged the oar

myself, in my time, we had at least something to talk about.

The black-haired dignitary gave an account of the death of some

officer, whom he had seen shot in battle. He had himself found the

body, after the affair; and, he added, “it had been stripped by the

French soldiers.”—“Why not by our own?” put in my young neighbour,

rather pithily. “Because I do not think any of ours had been near

it,” was the answer; but it sounded like an _arrière pensée_.

It appeared well on the part of my neighbour, to suggest the doubt,

and I fell into discourse with him. He had discovered that I was an

American, by a remark of my right-hand companion, who knew the fact,

and he soon began to speak of the difference in language between the

English and Americans. He told me he had just come from Paris, and

that, while strolling in the Palais Royal, he had been struck with

the pronunciation of three men, who were walking before him. Their

dialect was provincial, and he had been at a loss to discover from

what part of England they had come, when he ascertained, by their

discourse, they were Americans. I told him we had social _castes_

in America, as in England, though they were less strongly marked

than common; and that men, of course, betrayed their associations

in nothing sooner than in their modes of speech. He admitted the

justice of this distinction; but I question if he had ever before

thought of America, except as a jumble of a whole people in one

_omnium gatherum_. He made a remark that I felt to be just, and one

could wish it might be made in the ears of all those who concoct

the president’s and governors’ messages, of the critics, and of the

writers of the whole nation. He said he was struck with the manner in

which we used the word “our.” We did not say “America,” but “_our_

country,” “_our_ people,” “_our_ laws,” “_our_ this,” “_our_ that,”

“_our_ t’other.” I had been disagreeably impressed, myself, with

the same peculiarity, for it is clearly bad, since “_the_ country,”

“_the_ laws,” “_the_ institutions,” could mean no other than those of

the country in discussion, and would be in better taste. I did not

admit this, however, for I had been put at the foot of the table,

on account of that country, and one never receives scurvy treatment

even for a defect or a misfortune that cannot be helped, that he does

not begin to defend it. I told my young critic that it was all for

want of a name, the term “United States” being too long, and that

the institutions favoured the notion of a right of property in every

thing national. He acquiesced in the reasons, which no doubt are the

true ones, but he did not appear the more to admire the taste; an

opinion that, between ourselves, he entertains in common with some

others.

This young man amused me with the entire coolness with which he

complimented me on my English being as good as usual. These people

are so accustomed to think of us as inferiors, that the bad taste of

telling a man in society, “really, now, I do not see but you know how

to speak, or to use a fork, or to drink your wine, or to go through

the manual of polite life, quite as well as one of us,” never appears

to strike them. One gets a good many of these oblique compliments,

here. My young neighbour was modest, and sensible, but he made this

obvious blunder.

My brother statue began to speak of America, and his right-hand

neighbours listened a little too superciliously for men who had so

unceremoniously exalted themselves, and I longed for an opportunity

to let them understand whereabouts America lay, and the sort of

stuff of which she was made. Chance favoured me, for my neighbour

happened to express his apprehensions that the difficulties of

Europe might bring about a war, to which America would become a

party. “I trembled” he said, “the other day, when the Navarino

affair took place, for a war would compel us to impress; and then

America _might_ think fit to resent it.” I told him that impressment,

continued a week, out of American vessels, would undeniably

produce a war. “Why cannot the two governments amicably settle

the matter, by admitting a mutual, search in each other’s ships?”

“Such a privilege would be nominal as respects us, as we could not

profit by it; the institutions would forbid impressment.” “It is a

thousand pities the question cannot be settled.” “We hold it to be

settled, already, by the law of nations and common sense. The right

to impress is not an international but a municipal right, and,

of course, can be exercised legally only within the jurisdiction

of the nation using it. England has no more claim to follow her

seamen into our territory, than to follow her criminals. If we were

to send constables to London to arrest thieves, or on board ships

on the high seas, we should soon hear of it. Jurisdictions cannot

conflict, in this manner, or there is an end of the immunities of

national character.” “What is then to be done?” “You ask us to

concede a favour, and a high favour, that of subjecting the citizen

to impositions and trouble for your sole benefit. Now, I think a

scheme can be suggested by which the matter may be disposed of.” By

this time, every ear was pricked up, and attentive, I proceeded—“As

for permitting English officers to be the judges of the matter, it is

out of the question. We never can concede, and never ought to concede

that point. But give us a _quid pro quo_ and we may be induced to

pass laws that shall purge our shipping, as near as may be, of your

seamen.” “What could we offer?” “There is the island of Bermuda; you

hold it, solely, as a hostile port to be used against us; I think for

the peaceable possession of that island, our government would make

some sacrifice, and”—here I paused a moment, between a reluctance to

hurt my brother statue’s _amour propre_, and the recollection of my

own attitude on the pedestal, the latter prevailing—“and, by way of

inducement to make the arrangement you ought to remember that twenty

years hence, England will not be able to hold it.”[7]

The dose worked particularly well. Head went to head, until the idea

passed up the table, quite beyond the salt. I heard Lord E—— exclaim

“it is too bad!” I did not think it half as bad, however, as putting

a foot on the neck of a stranger, and, moreover, it was true.

The effect of the hint, was quickly apparent, for we were no sooner

in the drawing-room than I was approached by half a dozen lords, and

I dare say if the dinner were to be gone over again, the bearings and

distance from the salt would have been materially altered. I shook

the dust off my feet, in quitting that house.

I believe I have not told you an adventure at another house. This was

at a dinner given by a merchant; a man of the city, but who does not

live in the city, for the _cits_ are now fairly rooted in the west

end. When dinner was announced the master of the house formally bowed

to me, and mentioned my name. This is an invitation, all over the

world, to take the _pas_. I advanced accordingly, and offered my arm

to the lady; but she very cooly refused it, presenting me to a Mrs.

Somebody who sat by her, and took the arm[8] of some one else. As

this person certainly had no title, and was an Englishman, and much

younger than myself, I was at a loss to discover his claims. It would

have been better had the good man and his wife understood each other,

previously, for the effect was to make me appear _tant soit peu_

ridiculous.

LETTER XXII.

TO JACOB SUTHERLAND, ESQUIRE.

I have had a singular conversation with a foreigner. This person

is a cosmopolite, a —— by birth, who has lived much in England

and America, and our discourse had reference to the opinions and

expectations that prevail here concerning our own national character

and national destiny. As my companion had no doubts as to the manner

in which his communication would be received, he spoke without

reserve.

He commenced by saying that a very general impression existed in

England that the man of America was not equally gifted, in mind,

with the man of Europe. This is merely the old opinion continued

to our own times, and I was fully aware of its existence. Captain

Hall, when he says that there is _no want of natural ability_ in the

American people, but that their deficiencies proceed from defective

educations, is merely addressing his remark to this prejudice. Almost

every English traveller, who has written of the republic, betrays

the existence of the same notion, in some way or other. But it is

so easy for an American, who is not completely blinded by national

vanity, to ascertain these truths, by concealing his origin, while

travelling in the stage-coaches, that, to me, it is matter of

surprise any one who has visited England should be ignorant of them.

Almost every American, whose name reaches this country, in

consequence of its being connected with any thing that is thought

creditable, is incontinently claimed as an expatriated European.

You can have no notion of the extent to which this prejudice is

carried. I do assure you, that I have myself heard a respectable man,

here, affirm that, in one of the counties of England, he had been a

school-fellow of Washington, before the latter emigrated! Mr. Irving

figures in biographical notices here, as a native of Devonshire, and

even my own humble claims have not been overlooked, as by a sketch

of a pretended life, which now lies on my table, my origin is traced

to the Isle of Man, and in an elaborated sort of Blue Book, which

contains a list of English writers, I find myself enrolled among

men, who have far more reason to be ashamed of me, than I have to

be ashamed of them. I have been asked quite lately, if Macdonough

were not an Irishman, and I believe, my affirmation that poor

Allen, who was killed in the Argus, was an American, was absolutely

discredited. I met with an assertion, some time since, in one of the

journals here, that “Commodore Rodgers was a Scotch baker, of the

name of Gray!” The periodical publications of the day, are filled

with spurious histories of most of our distinguished men, during the

revolution, replete with the usual scurrility and untruths; and even

the last war, brought with it, the same touches of amiable veracity.

The national prejudices of England, are freely commented on, by all

other people. Prejudice, however, belongs to man, rather than to

communities, and I am inclined to think France has almost as many

as this country, though they are of a different quality, and are

infinitely better cloaked. In making this comparison, I always except

the subject of America, for that is a point on which an Englishman

usually ceases altogether, to be either just, or discerning.

One of the traits which the English attribute to us, is a greater

disposition than common to lie. I have no hesitation in saying, that

this nation deems our own, addicted to this vice, altogether out

of the ordinary way. On this point, there can be no mistake, for

Captain Hall, Mr. De Roos, and several other recent writers, even by

exonerating us from the charge, betray its existence; but we have

high clerical authority for it, that will settle the matter. I quote

Bishop Heber; he is speaking of the American sailors. “They are

not so grievously addicted to lying, as they were once said to be.

_They have less animosity against the English than formerly, and

their character seems to have recovered its natural English tone._”

Dr. Heber might have been puzzled to explain, in what the _natural_

English character differs from any other, on principles that would

harmonize with the thirty-nine articles, of which, I believe, we

possess a tolerably accurate copy, in our own church. But, putting

orthodoxy out of the question, and not descending to a too rigid

construction of words, how was this notion of the American people,

and especially of their seamen, obtained? I think, I can explain it.

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