CHAPTER VII

SEATS OF REEDS AND SPLINTS

The discussion of the weaving processes to follow is confined, in the

main, to stools or seats. Fig. 53 shows several stools different in

design both in wood construction and in weaving. In two instances it

will be noted that weaving is done over a separate frame, one being

inserted between the rails, the other fastened on top, leaving a

little projection. Reference is made to several possible weaving

designs and the use of various mediums and combinations. The possible

combinations of materials are merely suggestive of possible other

ones, and the individual worker will find that many designs of varying

complexity may be worked out. An excellent method for working out

possible designs is that of using black and white paper strips ½ in.

in width. The design will show up very clearly because of the contrast

of the black and white. Experimenting with the weave on the seat

itself is rather tedious and unsatisfactory. The paper strips are an

excellent means to an end.

The stool top illustrated in Fig. 54 employs a simple over-and-under

weave, utilizing flat reed. The worker needs to decide at the outset

on the character of weave to be used unless it be of unusual design.

In this instance the weaver runs over _three_ and under _three_

strands, and the wrapping done in a series of _three_. To begin the

operation tack an end of flat reed under a short rail at a corner,

then bring the strand out and over the rail, across the frame opening

to the opposite rail, under this rail, across underneath the frame

opening to the bottom of the first rail. This completes the process

once around. Repeat three times; then wrap the strand around the two

rails, without running it across the top. Thus every fourth strand

across the top is omitted. It is not necessary to cut the strand; the

wrapping is continuous. Repeat these series of three strands until

opposite short rails are entirely wrapped. When a strand runs out tack

the end with the beginning of a new one underneath a rail. Use a one

ounce flat head wire tack for this purpose if available, otherwise a

one ounce cut tack will do. The weaving proper now begins.

[Illustration: FIG. 53. WOVEN TOP STOOLS.]

Tack a strand underneath a long rail at a corner, then weave _over

three_ strands and _under three_. Repeat in the same manner three

times, then weave _over_ the series which were woven _under_ before

and repeat alternately until the top is entirely woven. In weaving the

top of this stool one strand is woven in the last series of three, and

to balance it a single strand is run in on the opposite side. The ends

of this strand are not fastened in any particular way; the weaving

holds them in place. The spaces next to each short rail may be filled

in a like manner if desired. Strands crossing underneath the frame

must be woven in some manner to produce a seat of maximum strength.

The character of the weave here is not pertinent; in this instance it

might take the same form as the top.

[Illustration: FIG. 54. WEAVING IN SERIES OF THREE.]

Fig. 55 shows a stool top woven of inner hickory bark strips employing

what is termed a diagonal weave. Begin the wrapping on either the

short or long rails. In this instance we will assume that the short

rails have been wrapped; then the weaving will begin over the long

rails, and as indicated, at the upper left hand corner. The strands

have been numbered to make the description clearer. The "diagonal" is

determined at the edges of the upper rail. The method of weaving may

be expressed in the following manner:

Strand 1--Over 1, under 2, over 2, under 2, and so on.

Strand 2--Over 2, under 2, over 2, under 2, and so on.

Strand 3--Under 1, over 2, under 2, over 2, and so on.

Strand 4--Under 2, over 2, under 2, over 2, and so on.

[Illustration: FIG. 55. STOOL TOP OF INNER HICKORY STRIPS.]

This completes the series or unit, and this unit repeats itself until

the area is woven. For instance, the fifth weaver follows the same

course as the first; the sixth weaver follows the same course as the

second; the seventh the same as the third; and so on. The diagonal

effect will remain the same were the weaver to run over three strands

or more, providing the right start is made at the edges of the frame.

In using inner hickory bark care must be exercised to keep the strands

close together, for they shrink appreciably in drying. A brad hammer

with square face is an excellent tool to use for keeping the strands

snugly together.

[Illustration: FIG. 56. STOOL TOP OF FLAT AND HALF-ROUND REEDS.]

A combination of half-round and flat reed is illustrated in Fig. 56.

The half-round reed is wrapped about the frame first, and in this case

every other strand is wrapped around the opposite rail, crossing

underneath the frame only. The diagonal weave is employed, and is

identical to the one just described in general effect. However, the

weaver runs over three and under three in the body. Note the

difference in the weave at the edges of the rails. When using

half-round reed it is necessary that every other strand be wrapped

completely around the rails, for otherwise it would prove practically

impossible to weave the area because of the thickness of the reed. A

winding reed as shown in Fig. 49 or binder cane could be run

continuously, inasmuch as either is relatively thin. Weaving with two

kinds of reed will produce an area of pleasing high relief.

[Illustration: FIG. 57. DIAMOND DESIGN IN FLAT REED.]

Fig. 57 illustrates a stool woven in flat reed. The diagonal weave is

used running toward a common center, and it forms a diamond pattern or

design. Begin wrapping on the long rails, skipping every other strand

on the top as indicated. To weave this pattern it is necessary to

locate the center of the short rails and the center strand of those

running across the frame. In this instance the strands are even in

number, so the pattern does not begin at the actual center, but a

little to the right or left as the case may be. Beginning at the

center, count by twos, _over_, _under_ and _over_, _under_ and so on

to determine the number of strands to go over or under at the edge of

the frame. The first strand runs over _one_ at the center, and over

two and under two on either side. The second strand runs under _three_

at the center, and over two, under two on either side; the worker must

again count to the edge of the frame to determine the beginning weave,

until the unit of four strands has been woven. Then the unit repeats

itself _at the center_ and _at the edges_ of the frame. Beginning at

the right side of the illustration the weaving is as follows:

Strand 1--Over 2, under 2, over 2, under 2, over 2, under 2,

then over 1, and repeat across the other half of the frame.

Strand 2--Under 1, over 2, under 2, over 2, under 2, over 2,

then under 3, and repeat across the frame.

Strand 3--Under 2, over 2, under 2, over 2, under 2, over 2,

then under 1, and repeat across the frame.

Strand 4--Over 1, under 2, over 2, under 2, over 2, under 2,

then over 3, and repeat across the frame.

[Illustration: FIG. 58. DIAMOND WEAVE IN FLAT AND HALF-ROUND REEDS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 59. WOVEN DESIGN IN FLAT REED.]

These four strands comprise the unit, and it is repeated until the

frame is entirely woven. Complete half of the frame first, then weave

the other half, which is just the reverse of the first half. In

starting the weave for the second half, strand 1 is omitted, for it is

the center of the frame. After the worker has worked out the unit

according to the method described, he will find it good practice to

write it out graphically as above to use in weaving the seat. The unit

above applies to the particular stool, and will not hold good on seats

utilizing more strands, or fewer. Errors are easily made in weaving

this pattern for the reason that strands need watching at two places.

The seat of the stool at the top of the group shown in Fig. 61 has a

pattern identical with this one, except that the strands both ways are

close together.

The top illustrated in Fig. 58 is practically the same in design as

the one just described. The weavers run over the long rails in this

instance, instead of the short ones, and half-round reed is used for

the weavers, with flat reed utilized for the wrapping. The first

weaver of half-round reed runs _under_ the center strand, and the two

second weavers run _over_ three strands on either side of the first,

at the _center_ of the area. The combination of the half-round and

flat reeds produces a seat both pleasing and serviceable.

[Illustration: FIG. 60. STOOL TOP WOVEN WITH FIBER.]

Fig. 59 illustrates a stool top woven with flat reed entirely, in a

design the very opposite in effect of that shown in Fig. 57; instead

of evolving a diamond effect the diagonals appear to radiate from a

common center. The method of weaving is identical to that of Fig. 57

in that the operation begins at the center of rails instead of next to

the posts. The first weaver is woven over the center strand at the

center of the top, and the second weaver, on either side, is woven

_over three_ strands, at the center. These three weavers practically

determine the design and effect produced. An error of no vital

importance exists in this particular stool top. It will merely

emphasize the fact that particular care is necessary to avoid

mistakes.

Fiber is the material used for the top of the stool shown in Fig. 60.

The diagonal weave is employed. The process of weaving has been

explained and needs no further discussion. The fiber is the same as

that discussed in Chapter V. It adapts itself admirably to this form

of weaving, and when properly finished with varnish makes a

serviceable seat, pleasing in every particular. The strands which run

across the frame in the wrapping must be some distance apart,

otherwise weaving would prove impossible. The thickness of the strands

preclude their being wrapped close together as in the case of thin

materials. In this case a space equal to the width of three strands is

left. The weaver runs over two and under two strands in the body.

While reeds and inner hickory bark shrink in drying, they will shrink

mostly in width and not much in length. Therefore it is necessary to

pull all strands, both in wrapping and in weaving, rather tight at all

times. Only by doing this will the worker be assured of an ultimately

taut seat. This applies also to the Indian splints now to be

discussed. As fiber is woven practically dry it needs to be pulled

particularly tight.

=Indian Splints.=--Fig. 61 shows a group of stools and a waste basket

constructed in eighth grade shops. The tops of the stools and the

panels of the basket are woven of hickory splints ½ in. in width. A

variety of patterns is shown, and these will suggest other ones. One

of the stools has turned posts and the splints are carried over the

sides of the rails. With slight modification of the structure, the

sides might be woven in a similar manner to the top. The panels of the

basket were woven over a separate frame, then they were cut to fit the

frames of the basket, and finally tacked on the frames. The edges of

the splints were covered with thin wood strips held in place with

brads. These panels should be inserted and secured while damp to

assure proper tautness, and to prevent as far as possible splitting

the ends of the splints in tacking them to the frames.

[Illustration: FIG. 61. GROUP OF STOOLS. TOPS WOVEN WITH INDIAN

SPLINTS.]

It is not advisable to tack splints onto seat frames, either as an

insert or slip seat, or on the rails of the structure itself. The

splints split easily when tacked, the strands are bound to pull

loose, and the seats break down under continued use. On such articles

as waste baskets, boxes, screens and the like, tacking the panels in

place is necessary and proper, for no appreciable wear or service

comes to them. The weaving on seats needs to be continuous over and

under the frame.

[Illustration: FIG. 62. METHOD OF FASTENING ONE STRAND TO ANOTHER.]

When a strand of usual length has been wrapped about the rails of the

seat a second strand needs to be added to continue the wrapping.

Tacking the strands to the under side of the rails, as in the case of

reeds, cannot be resorted to with splints for the reasons just

explained. Therefore some method of fastening strands to each other is

necessary. Fig. 62 is a freehand sketch showing a good method. As

indicated, a small rectangular piece is cut out of the used strand at

_B_, one inch from the end. A chisel or chip carving knife is good for

the purpose. Cut across the grain of the wood first to avoid splitting

the splint. The end of the new strand _A_ is notched as shown an inch

back from the end, and is then inserted thru _B_ and the two strands

thus secured. All subsequent strands are secured in the same manner.

[Illustration: FIG. 63. METHOD OF OVERLAPPING WEAVERS.]

Another method which works well and involves less labor than the one

just described is that of fastening the strands together with metal

staples. Any type of small hand stapler will accomplish the result.

The splints must be very pliable when the staple is inserted and

clinched, for if they are not, the splints are certain to split. Clips

used in Venetian ironwork are excellent for this purpose also. It

should be understood, for reasons very obvious, that these fastenings

are made underneath the frame.

[Illustration: FIG. 64. WOVEN DESIGN IN HICKORY SPLINTS.]

After the wrapping of the opposite rails is completed, the weaving is

begun. The use of tacks here is also unnecessary and is inadvisable.

Fasten a new strand by overlapping the end of the old one for several

inches either on top or underneath the frame. The ends of each will be

hidden under cross strands or spokes. Fig. 63 is a sketch illustrating

the method of overlapping. _AA_ shows strands running _over_ the

weavers, and _BB_ strands running _under_. _D_ is the end of the old

or used strand, and _C_ one end of the new one. _C_ is pulled until

the end is hidden under _A_. It is advisable to overlap the distance

of a number of strands and not merely two as the sketch indicates. The

sketch merely shows the method. The end of the strand which completes

the weaving of the seat is secured underneath the frame by weaving for

a short distance in the usual manner.

Fig. 64 is merely Fig. 59 repeated as far as the weaving processes

are concerned. In this instance hickory splints are used, and the

rails are wrapped continuously across the top. Note the different

effects produced, by comparing the two figures.

[Illustration: FIG. 65. WOVEN DESIGN. DIAMOND EFFECT.]

Fig. 65 shows a rather unusual weave. The effect is that of a number

of diamond areas over the entire surface, one of which is marked to

make the unit or design evident. This design need not begin at the

center, but may begin at the edge of the frame as in regular diagonal

weaving shown in Fig. 55. The strands comprising the unit are numbered

for convenience. The process of weaving is as follows:

Strand 1--Under 1, over 2, under 1, over 2, and so on.

Strand 2--Over 2, under 3, over 3, under 3, and so on.

Strand 3--Over 1, under 2, over 1, under 2, and so on.

Strand 4--Under 2, over 3, under 3, over 3, and so on.

Strand 5--Under 1, over 2, under 1, over 2, and so on.

Strand 6--Under 2, over 3, under 3, over 3, and so on.

Strand 7--Over 1, under 2, over 1, under 2, and so on.

Strand 8--Over 2, under 3, over 3, under 3, and so on.

Strand 9--Under 1, over 2, under 1, over 2, and so on.

Nine strands comprise the unit. One half of the unit from strand 5 is

a repetition of the first half except that the order is reversed. Thus

strands 4 and 6, 3 and 7, 2 and 8, and 1 and 9 are identical in weave.

Repeat the unit until the seat is completed.

[Illustration: FIG. 66. DESIGN OF INDIAN SPLINTS.]

The design produced in Fig. 66 is obtained by skipping certain strands

for rather unusual distances. This may be done in instances where the

pattern is begun at the center of the area. No strand should be

omitted its entire length however. Any number of designs may be worked

out, limited only by the patience and ingenuity of the individual

worker.

A design for a seat or panel not illustrated herein, but which is

particularly pleasing in its general effect, is produced by a unit of

six strands repeated indefinitely. The weaving is started as in the

diagonal weave and the process may be indicated as follows:

Strand 1--Over 1, under 3, over 3, under 3, and so on.

Strand 2--Over 2, under 3, over 3, under 3, and so on.

Strand 3--Over 3, under 3, over 3, under 3, and so on.

Strand 4--Under 1, over 3, under 3, over 3, and so on.

Strand 5--Under 2, over 3, under 3, over 3, and so on.

Strand 6--Under 3, over 3, under 3, over 3, and so on.

[Illustration: FIG. 67. METHOD OF WEAVING SPLINTS.]

The isometric sketch of a stool, Fig. 67, shows the structure partly

woven. It will be noticed that the splints or reeds run both ways

underneath the frame as they do on top. As indicated previously these

strands underneath should be woven in some manner to assure a seat of

maximum strength for the material used. The diagonal weave was

arbitrarily chosen to illustrate the method of weaving the seat frame.

The weaving underneath is not shown on the sketch. If the rails on any

seat are run flush with the inside corners of the posts the woven

strands will fill the entire space. On the other hand, if they are

permitted an offset, a series of open spaces are left as shown on the

first woven seat illustrated. The sketch shows the rails flush with

the inner corner of the posts.

=A Rustic Chair.=--The type of chair which is particularly adapted to

splint weaving is illustrated in Fig. 68. The construction is simple,

and the necessary bending of pieces is readily done if a suitable

steaming chest is available in the shop. Such a chest may be made of a

6 in. gas pipe cut the required length and threaded at both ends. Cap

one end permanently. Have the cap for the other end removable, with a

gasket in it to prevent the escape of steam, and a suitable handle

attached for ease in removing. Set the pipe upon a standard, then make

the necessary steam connections at the closed end and the drain at the

other. Place the wood in the chest, screw on the cap, and turn on the

steam. The length of time the wood should remain in the steam depends

upon the wood and the size of the piece.

[Illustration: FIG. 68. PORCH CHAIR WITH BACK AND SEAT WOVEN WITH

SPLINTS.]

Suitable wood forms are easily made for bending stock. Their

construction needs no elaboration. When the pieces are removed from

the chest, clamp them over the forms immediately, and allow them to

remain clamped in this manner for several days in a dry, warm room. If

steam coils or hot air registers are handy the forms may be placed

over or near them to expedite the drying.

Rock elm is a good material from which to construct such a chair. The

wood may be procured in the round, of different diameters. The tenons

on the straight pieces may be made on the wood lathe; on the curved

ones with spokeshave or draw knife. The short thin pieces on the sides

should be fully housed. On a chair of this description it is good

policy to assemble the sides first. Finish both the frame and the

splints with a good paint composed of white lead and oil.

Another excellent material for chairs of similar design and purpose is

hickory. It is the best material for the construction of furniture for

lawns and porches where weathering is constant, and it is peculiarly

adapted to splint and inner bark weaving. If a person lives in the

right locality he may gather young second growth hickory saplings in

the fall. An instructor could very readily take his classes out on

such a wood-gathering expedition. The educational gain in gathering

raw materials to be fashioned into finished articles of use and beauty

will justify all efforts. In the fall the bark of the saplings will

adhere firmly to the wood. Trim and assort the different pieces in

accordance with plans, cut them into approximate lengths, and steam

and bend those desired. Sand each piece smooth, and proceed to

construct the chair according to previous plans. Glue and nail all

important joints to prevent any possibility of separation under any

weather condition. No finish of any description is necessary or

desired on hickory furniture. Weathering will naturally darken both

frame and splints, but will not detract in any way from the rugged,

pleasing appearance of the article.

Sassafras is a very desirable wood for rustic furniture, and well

adapted to splint weaving. The methods of gathering and finishing are

identical to hickory. It is much lighter in weight than hickory, but

is quite as serviceable. No finishing agent is necessary, altho the

worker may oil or varnish it at his discretion.

=A Woven Table.=--The table illustrated in Fig. 69 is a commercial

product, evidenced by the machine turned posts and crosspieces. In

school shops the posts may be made of rock elm rounds previously

mentioned, or square tapered, and the rails of rounds or squares. The

posts mortise in a frame underneath the top. The framework of the top

is made of ⅜ in. dowel rods housed in a 6 in. round piece of ¾ in.

wood, and radiating from it equal distances apart. The number of

spokes needs to be odd, and cut to even lengths. The weaving is done

with about a No. 6 reed, running over one, under two, over one, under

two, and so on. The odd spoke permits the weaver to run continuously

without skipping a spoke. A new strand is begun underneath the spoke

where the last strand ends. When the top has been woven to the ends of

the spokes a strip of braided No. 2 reed is nailed to each spoke with

a round head, galvanized nail. The braid is made in the usual manner,

as in basketry, with three series of strands of four each. When the

shelf has been constructed in the same manner as the top, and both top

and shelf have been fastened in their respective places, the table may

be stained with naptha by pouring the stain over it. This method has

been described in Chapter VI. Commercially, such articles are sized

before staining. However, staining direct is the proper procedure in

school shops. Use no shellac if the table is to be used on the porch

or in the open where exposed to the weather.

=Willows.=--Willows are imported normally from Germany, Holland,

Belgium and France. Because of their scarcity and demand for them,

willow growing is fast becoming a thriving industry in the United

States. Many experimental farms are under the direct supervision of

the federal government. These have demonstrated that willows can be

grown to advantage in many localities in this country. In many

instances manufacturers have abandoned rattan in favor of willows for

certain articles of furniture where rattan was formerly used

exclusively. Willow possesses all the attributes necessary for such

furniture, being light in weight, durable, and strong; and it takes a

good finish.

[Illustration: FIG. 69. A WOVEN CENTER TABLE.]

Willow stems or rods are cut when several feet long. They are then

soaked in water and the outer bark peeled. The rods are then sorted,

bundled and shipped to the dealer or user. The peeling is generally

accomplished by hand with a peculiarly forked stick or rod.

Commercially there are what are termed dry peeled rods and steam

peeled rods, with the former in favor for furniture of the better

class. They sell for from 6 cents to 15 cents per pound, depending on

quality, length and method of peeling. Willow stems are used

extensively in basketry, and for porch and summer furniture. They

could be used effectively on such a table as shown in Fig. 69, but

cannot generally be utilized advantageously in school shops for

seating purposes only. However, they have very definite uses on some

structures, and an adequate supply should be kept on hand for use when

opportunity offers.

* * * * *

Within the confines of this book a variety of materials has been

suggested, and many demonstrated, for seat weaving of various kinds

and for weaving on structures other than seats. These will ordinarily

afford sufficient latitude for classes of different grade in the

school shops, but the instructor or worker should not infer that those

indicated include all. Experience in weaving with these materials will

suggest new mediums and combinations without number, and

experimentation with new materials by both instructor and pupil should

be encouraged.

[Illustration: SUGGESTIVE PROJECTS.]

WEAVING MATERIALS: WHERE TO OBTAIN

The following firms and individuals can furnish the various weaving

materials indicated. They may undoubtedly be procured locally in the

larger cities.

CANE

LUSSKY, WHITE AND COOLIDGE Chicago, Ill.

AMERICAN REED AND RATTAN MFG. CO. Brooklyn, N. Y.

HOOVER BROS. Kansas City, Mo.

L. S. DRAKE, INC. West Newton, Mass.

CANE WEBBING

LUSSKY, WHITE AND COOLIDGE Chicago, Ill.

RESTMOER MFG. CO. Vancouver, B. C.

FIBER

THE FIBER GRAND CO. Grand Rapids, Mich.

J. L. HAMMET CO. Brooklyn, N. Y.

RUSH

L. S. DRAKE, INC. West Newton, Mass.

GUSTAV STICKLEY Eastwood, N. Y.

INDIAN SPLINTS

C. N. SABA AND CO. 84 Wellington St. West,

Toronto, Ontario.

DAVID HARDIN Patesville, Ky.

REEDS

LUSSKY, WHITE AND COOLIDGE Chicago, Ill.

AMERICAN REED AND RATTAN MFG. CO. Brooklyn, N. Y.

J. L. HAMMET CO. Brooklyn, N. Y.

INNER HICKORY BARK

THE OLD HICKORY CHAIR CO. Martinsville, Ind.

BOOKS ON THE MANUAL ARTS

=DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION IN WOOD. By Noyes.= A book full of charm and

distinction. It illustrates a series of well-designed and attractive

projects, and gives suggestions for other similar projects, all

suitable for home use, together with information regarding tools and

processes for making. A pleasing volume abundantly and beautifully

illustrated. $1.50.

=HANDWORK IN WOOD. By Noyes.= A comprehensive and scholarly treatise,

covering logging, saw-milling, seasoning, and measuring, hand tools,

wood fastenings, equipment and care of the shop, the common joints,

types of wood structures, principles of joinery, and wood finishing.

304 illustrations--excellent pen drawings and many photographs. The

best reference book for teachers of woodworking. $2.00.

=WOOD AND FOREST. By Noyes.= A reference book for teachers of

woodworking. Treats of woods, distribution of American forests, life

of the forest, enemies of the forest, destruction, conservation and

uses of the forest, with a key to the common woods by Filibert Roth.

Describes 67 principal species of wood, with maps of the habitat, leaf

drawings, life-size photographs and microphotographs of sections.

Profusely illustrated. $3.00.

=CARPENTRY. By Griffith.= A well-illustrated textbook for use in

vocational schools, trade schools, technical schools and by

apprentices to the trade, presenting the principles of house framing

in a clear and fundamental way. It treats of the "every-day" practical

problem of the carpenter and house-builder from the "laying of

foundations" to the completion of the "interior finish." $1.00.

=WOODWORK FOR SECONDARY SCHOOLS. By Griffith.= A textbook for high

schools, colleges and technical schools. It contains chapters on

woods, tools and processes, joinery, turning, carving, inlaying, wood

finishing, pattern making, and the use of woodworking machines. It is

a well-balanced and authoritative text, presupposing a knowledge of

elementary tool processes. Specially adapted to secondary schools.

$1.75.

=CORRELATED COURSES IN WOODWORKING AND MECHANICAL DRAWING. By

Griffith.= Contains reliable information concerning organization of

courses, subject-matter, and methods of teaching. It covers

classification and arrangement of tool operations, stock bills, cost

of material, records, shop conduct, the lesson, maintenance, equipment

and lesson outlines for grammar and high schools. The most complete

and thoro treatment of the subject of teaching woodworking ever

published. $1.50.

=ESSENTIALS OF WOODWORKING. By Griffith.= A textbook written

especially for grammar and high school students. The standard textbook

on elementary woodworking. A clear and comprehensive treatment of

woodworking tools, materials and processes, to supplement, but not to

take the place of the instruction given by the teacher. The book may

be used with any course of models. 75 cents.

=WOODWORK FOR BEGINNERS. By Griffith.= A textbook for students in the

seventh and eighth grades. In a remarkably simple manner it presents

only the fundamental facts regarding tools and tool processes which

should be thoroly mastered by the grammar grade boy. It is technically

correct, well illustrated and is adapted for use with any course of

models. 50 cents.

=PROJECTS FOR BEGINNING WOODWORK AND MECHANICAL DRAWING. By

Griffith.= A collection of 50 working drawings and working directions

of projects which have proved of exceptional service where woodworking

and mechanical drawing are taught in a thoro, systematic manner in the

seventh and eighth grades. 75 cents.

=FURNITURE MAKING--ADVANCED PROJECTS IN WOODWORK. By Griffith.= A

collection of problems in furniture making selected and designed with

reference to high school use. On the plate with each working drawing

is a good perspective sketch of the completed object. In draftsmanship

and refinement of design, these problems are of superior quality. An

excellent collection. 75 cents.

=FURNITURE DESIGN FOR SCHOOLS AND SHOPS. By Crawshaw.= A manual in

furniture design containing a collection of plates showing perspective

drawings of typical designs, representing particular types of

furniture. Each perspective is accompanied by suggestions for

rearrangements and the modeling of parts. The text discusses and

illustrates principles of design as applied to furniture. Should be in

the hands of every teacher of cabinet making and design. $1.00.

=PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK. By Blackburn.= A book of working drawings

of 100 practical problems relating to agriculture and farm life. Each

problem is accompanied by text treating of "Purpose," "Material,"

"Bill of Stock," "Tools," "Directions," and "Assembly." Of special

value to the pupil and teacher of agriculture and manual arts in rural

schools, and to the boy on the farm. $1.00.

=PROBLEMS IN FURNITURE MAKING. By Crawshaw.= Contains 43 full-page

working drawings of articles of furniture. In addition to the working

drawings, there is a perspective sketch of each article completed.

There are 36 pages of text giving notes on the construction of each

project, chapters on the "Design" and "Construction" of furniture, and

one on "Finishes." The last chapter describes 15 methods of wood

finishing, all adapted for use on furniture. $1.00.

=PROBLEMS IN WOODWORKING. By Murray.= A collection of 40 plates of

working drawings of problems in bench work that have been successfully

worked out by boys in grades seven to nine, inclusive. 75 cents.

=PROBLEMS IN WOOD-TURNING. By Crawshaw.= Contains 25 full-page plates

of working drawings covering spindle, faceplate, and chuck turning. It

gives the mathematical basis for the cuts used in turning. A valuable

textbook for students' use. 80 cents.

=WORKSHOP NOTE-BOOK--WOODWORKING. By Greene.= A note-book which

furnishes a few general and extremely important directions about tools

and processes, and provides space for additional notes and working

drawings. It is essentially a collection of helps, ideas, hints,

suggestions, questions, facts, illustrations, etc. It is full of

suggestions; shows a keen insight into subject-matter and teaching

methods, and is an effective teaching tool. 15 cents.

=SHOP PROBLEMS. By Siepert.= Portfolios of plates--working drawings of

projects printed on tracing paper and adapted to be blue-printed for

students' use. The plates are taken from the Shop Notes and Problems

department of the _Manual Training Magazine_. The problems include a

wide variety of good design and adapted for shop use. Series I, II,

III and IV have been published. Price per series, 35 cents.

=GRAMMAR GRADE PROBLEMS IN MECHANICAL DRAWING. By Bennett.= A

remarkably simple and carefully graded textbook on the fundamentals of

mechanical drawing for the use of students in the seventh and eighth

grades. It combines an abundance of text and simple problems,

accompanied by notes and directions. Its use insures the early

formation of correct habits of technique and makes possible the

development of a standard in grammar grade mechanical drawing parallel

with woodworking. Abundantly and well illustrated. 38 cents.

=PROBLEMS IN MECHANICAL DRAWING. By Bennett.= A students' textbook

consisting of 80 plates of problems classified into groups according

to principle, and arranged according to difficulty of solution. Each

problem is given unsolved and, therefore, in proper form to hand to

the pupil for solution. The best collection of problems for first-year

high-school students available. 75 cents.

=MANUAL TRAINING TOYS FOR THE BOYS' WORKSHOP. By Moore.= A popular

boys' book. It contains 35 pages of full-page plates of working

drawings illustrating 42 projects. All the projects are overflowing

with "boy" interest, and are well adapted to the upper grades of the

elementary school. The text treats of tools and tool processes, and

gives instructions for making each project. $1.00.

=KITECRAFT AND KITE TOURNAMENTS. By Miller.= Authoritative and

comprehensive. The book deals with the construction and flying of all

kinds of kites, and the making and using of kite accessories. Also

aeroplanes, gliders, propellers, motors, etc. Abundantly illustrated

and attractively bound. $1.00.

=BIRD HOUSES BOYS CAN BUILD. By Siepert.= A book of rare interest to

boys. It is written in the boy spirit and combines the charm of nature

with the allurements of continuation work in wood. It illustrates

hundreds of bird houses and shows working drawings of various designs;

also feeders, shelters, sparrow traps, and other bird accessories. The

common house nesting birds are pictured and described with information

regarding houses, foods, etc., suitable for each. A pleasing and

practical book for wide-awake boys. Price, 50 cents.

=LEATHER WORK. By Mickel.= A manual on art leather work for students,

teachers and craft workers. It gives detailed descriptions of the

various processes of working, treating of flat modeling, embossing or

repoussé, carved leather and cut work. It is well illustrated with

photographs of finished work and working drawings of twenty useful and

beautiful articles suitable for school and home work. 75 cents.

=BOOKS ON THE MANUAL ARTS.= A bibliography listing and describing 400

books mailed free.

_Published by_ The Manual Arts Press _Peoria, Ill._

Transcriber's Note

Variant spelling is preserved as printed.

Minor punctuation errors have been repaired.

The following amendments have been made:

Page 41--trainig amended to training--... more than justifies

its introduction in manual training shops.

Page 84--the transcriber has added the omitted chapter heading,

'WEAVING MATERIALS: WHERE TO OBTAIN.'

Seat Weaving · 第 7 / 7 章