RESEATING A CHAIR; HAND CANING
In many localities it is impossible to find a professional to reseat
caned chairs either by hand or with cane webbing. Many chairs in good
repair and worthy are relegated to the attic because of broken or
sunken seats. Upholsterers generally will not be troubled with such
jobs of caning for the work does not pay unless there is an amount
sufficient to keep them steadily employed. Usually they are not adept
enough to do such odd jobs as may come to them, even tho willing to do
the work, within a time consistent with sufficient money returns.
Chairs of ordinary size may be caned for a minimum of $1 and a maximum
of $2. If the holes have previously been bored, much labor is thus
avoided, and the charge is naturally made less. The professional cane
weaver has various ways by which he determines the cost for recaning a
given seat. Perhaps the most common method employed is that of
charging so much per hole. This is from 1 to 2 cents. The difficulty
in handling very fine cane is also a factor in deciding what to
charge. Usually a casual looking over of the chair by the expert is
all that is necessary to fix a price. No charge of less than $1 on a
hand caned seat will sufficiently remunerate the worker. Fig. 18 shows
a hank of cane and rolls of machine woven cane.
Any boy who has had instruction and sufficient experience in caning in
the manual training shop may readily undertake jobs of caning. The boy
who will investigate will find that he may work up a sizeable trade in
chair seating in a short time. In fact several boys will not overcrowd
a given field. Such work will pay the amateur well. He does not, nor
cannot expect professional wages. It is of considerable value from the
pupil's standpoint alone, that is, this correlation with his manual
school activities. The amount of pay initially is not the main
question; it is the educational value derived. He would undoubtedly
find willing help at his shop at any time a job of peculiar treatment
presented itself.
=The Process.=--Many chairs which the owners would wish hand caned
have no holes bored for the work. They previously held machine woven
cane. Fig. 19 shows a sketch of a chair bottom of ordinary or standard
shape. The area is irregular. The sketch shows the method of
determining the location for the holes.
[Illustration: FIG. 18. HANK OF CANE AND ROLLS OF MACHINE WOVEN CANE.]
As stated in the discussion of the seven steps in caning, the holes
are invariably ½ in. from the inner edges of the rails. In this
instance the line from which the holes for the front rail are located
is parallel with the front rail; it is coincident with the line on
which the holes are bored. The line on the back rail must be parallel
with it; the line runs thru the center of the center hole. The lines
on the side rails are parallel to each other and at right angles to
the first two. These four lines are shown as dash lines on the
drawing. Their function is simply to determine the location for the
holes to be bored on the lines ½ in. from the inner edges of the
rails. Those lines are shown in the sketch as full lines.
[Illustration: FIG. 19. SKETCH OF CHAIR SEAT OF ODD SHAPE, SHOWING
METHOD OF FINDING LOCATION OF HOLES.]
When the working lines are determined, the centers of the front and
back lines are located. The lines connecting corresponding holes on
the front and back rails must be parallel to the line connecting the
center holes on these rails. This rule applies to the locating of the
holes on the side rails. It also applies to any seat of odd shape. The
distance between holes will vary somewhat at different places on the
seat frame. This is the result of working to rule, and is necessary to
keep strands equidistant and parallel. At times respacing at several
places will be necessary. When it is, simply redivide into as nearly
the given dimensions as possible.
[Illustration: FIG. 20. FIRST STEP HALF COMPLETED.]
[Illustration: FIG. 21. FIRST STEP COMPLETED. SECOND BEGUN.]
After the holes have been bored and cleaned the seat is ready for
caning. Start at the center hole in the back. Pull the cane up thru
this hole and across the frame, and down the center hole in the front.
Work both ways on the frame. Fig. 19 shows a cane started in this
manner. It is best that the amateur work from the center, both ways.
He may begin otherwise when he understands the work better. The caning
operations on the seat to be shown are the same as those described in
the seven steps in caning. They never vary. The only new thing
involved here is the shape of the seat. Fig. 20 is a photograph of a
chair seat of an odd shape, an irregular ellipse. It shows the first
step half completed. Note here that the last strand skips two holes,
one at the front and one at the back. This is necessary to keep
strands as nearly the same distance apart as possible. Fig. 21 shows
the first step completed and the second partially so. It is not
necessary to start at the center with this series, altho it is
advisable with the beginner. Note that two holes have been skipped
here, as in the first step. Fig. 22 shows the second step finished and
the third under way. These strands run directly over those of the
first series. Pegs are always used to keep strands taut. Their proper
use has been explained. Fig. 23 shows the third step completed and the
fourth under way. This shows the actual weaving, and the method of
using the needle. It has been pushed thru in the manner previously
described; and is shown threaded, ready to be pulled back, thus making
the weave. The needle may not be used, but will do the work rapidly.
Handwork alone here is tedious. Fig. 24 shows the diagonal weave under
way. In Fig. 25 this weave is completed and the second diagonal
started. Fig. 26 shows the method of fastening the binder. This has
been described.
[Illustration: FIG. 22. THE SECOND STEP FINISHED AND THE THIRD UNDER
WAY.]
[Illustration: FIG. 23. THE THIRD STEP COMPLETED AND THE FOURTH UNDER
WAY. THE CANING NEEDLE IN USE.]
The first three series of strands should not be pulled very tight,
otherwise the final weaving will prove difficult. The finished seat,
when dry, should ring when struck sharply with the fingers.
The method of tying cane, preventing twists, etc., has been explained.
Reference should be made to these points, when anything is not fully
understood in this discussion of chair seating.
[Illustration: FIG. 24. THE FIRST DIAGONAL WEAVE UNDER WAY. THE FIFTH
STEP.]
[Illustration: FIG. 25. FIRST DIAGONAL COMPLETED AND THE SECOND BEGUN.
THE SIXTH STEP.]
Note that many holes have been skipped in each series, especially in
the last two, and also that more than one diagonal of a given series
enters the same hole. In every case it will enter that hole which
leaves its course in as straight a line as possible. In rectangular
areas it is never necessary to run two diagonals into the same hole,
except at the corners. This applies to two diagonals of the same
series.
=Refinishing.=--The refinishing of a chair is a distinct problem, and
one which the cane weaver should understand. He should acquire ability
for finishing along with skill in caning, inasmuch as a chair which
needs a new seat invariably is in need of refinishing. The method is
as follows: Remove the cane from the seat. If the finish is in fair
condition merely wash the chair with warm water and soap. When dry
sand the surface somewhat, wipe clean, and follow with a coat of good
varnish. In forty-eight hours rub with pumice stone and oil, and
follow with an application of furniture polish, well rubbed. A good
polish which may be made in school shops is composed of two parts of
raw oil, two parts of turpentine, one part vinegar, and a very small
amount of alcohol. Boiled oil may be used in the absence of the raw
product. Shake the container constantly when using, for the parts are
almost all merely held in suspension.
Should the chair be in poor condition, remove all varnish with any
good varnish remover found on the market. Apply as directed with a
stiff brush, running the solution well into all crevices. Later rub
off the softened finish with excelsior or burlap. A scraper, an old
plane bit, or a rather dull chisel will prove effective in corners and
recesses. Apply a second coat of remover if conditions warrant it and
clean again, then when the surfaces are dry, sand until clean and
smooth. Follow with a coat of oil stain of the color desired; then two
coats of varnish, allowing each coat to dry 48 hours. Sand the first
coat lightly, and rub the second with pumice stone and oil. A filler
is not generally necessary in refinishing. The ground coat may be of
shellac instead of varnish if the worker prefers it. The chair need
not be stained if it was finished natural originally.
[Illustration: FIG. 26. METHOD OF FASTENING BINDER. THE SEVENTH AND
LAST STEP.]
In caning the seat special care must be exercised to avoid marring
the varnished frame. If the needle is used in the fourth step the
frame needs protection from it. Pieces of bristol or card board may be
placed under the needle on either side of the frame. The needle is
bound to mar the surface of the frame if this precaution is not taken.
In many instances it is policy to cane the seat after the old finish
has been removed; this to avoid any possibility of marring the seat
frame later. However, it is better practice to refinish the chair
first, and cane the seat last.
[Illustration: SUGGESTIVE PROJECTS.]