CHAPTER XVI.

Villa of Huaura....Description....Village of Supe....Ruins of an

Indian Town...._Huacas_, Burying Places....Bodies preserved

entire....Village of Barranca....Earthquake in 1806....Barranca

River....Bridge of Ropes....Village of Pativilca....Sugar

Plantation....Produce and Profit....Cane cultivated....Mills....

Sugar-house....Management of Slaves....Regulations, &c. of Slaves.

Two leagues to the northward of Huacho is the villa or town of Huaura;

it consists of one long street and about two thousand inhabitants, some

of whom are respectable creole families; it has a parish church, a

convent of Franciscan friars, and a hospital. Owing to the situation of

this town, having a range of high hills between it and the sea, and

which keep off the sea breeze, it is very sultry; to this circumstance a

cutaneous disease is attributed, which leaves a bluish mark on the skin.

It is most prevalent among the mulattos; and on those negroes who are

affected by it a stain is left which is almost white, and is called by

the natives _carati_.

Near to Huaura is a plantation, the _ingenio_, formerly belonging to the

Jesuits; here the cane is crushed by cylinders put in motion by a water

wheel, which is said to be the first ever constructed in Peru.

A very handsome brick bridge of one arch, the centre of which was

forty-seven yards above the bed of the river, and the span twenty-six

yards wide, was erected at the entrance of the town; it was thrown down

by an earthquake on the 1st of December, 1806, and the old wooden

bridge, which had formerly a redoubt to guard it, has been repaired.

The English pirate Edward David took Huaura and sacked it in 1685,

putting to death the _alcalde de la hermandad_, Don Bias Carrera, whom

he had made his prisoner; this so terrified the inhabitants that they

immediately abandoned the town, nor could they be persuaded to avail

themselves of the drunken state of the sailors during the night to

revenge the injuries they had suffered; they were fearful of being

captured and treated in the same manner as their alcalde. The charter of

villa was taken from the town by the King, but afterwards restored.

The valley of Huaura extends about twelve leagues to the eastward, and

contains many excellent farms, plantations of sugar cane, and about

three thousand slaves.

Seven leagues from Huaura is the village of Supe, with a parish church

and eight hundred inhabitants, the greater part of whom are indians.

Between these towns there is a large plain, called _pampa de medio

mundo_, which before the conquest was under irrigation; the vestiges of

the old canals, _asequias_, are still visible, and bear witness of the

enormous labour of the ancient Peruvians, as well as of their uncommon

skill in conveying water for the purpose of watering their fields to

immense distances, without the aid of engines; the principal asequia

here took its water from the Huaura river, and winding round the foot of

the mountains conveyed it to the distance of ten leagues, irrigating in

its course some very beautiful plains, which are now only deserts of

sand.

Near to Supe are the remains of a large indian town, built on the side

of a rock, galleries being dug out of it, one above another, for the

purpose of making room for their small houses; many remains of these are

still visible, and also of small parapets of stone raised before them,

so that the hill has the appearance of a fortified place. At a short

distance are the ruins of another town, on an elevated plain, where

water doubtless could not be procured for irrigation; for, as I have

already observed, the indians never built on land that could be

cultivated.

I was fully convinced here that the indians buried their dead in the

houses where they had resided, as I dug up many of them. They appear to

have been buried with whatever belonged to them at the time of their

death; I have found women with their pots, pans, and jars of

earthenware, some of which are very curious. One kind is composed of two

hollow spheres, each about three inches in diameter; they are connected

by a small tube placed in the centre, and a hollow arched handle to hold

it by, having a hole on the upper side; if water be poured into this

hole till the jar is about half full, and the jar be then inclined first

to one side and then to the other, a whistling noise is produced.

Sometimes a figure of a man stands on each jar, and the water is poured

down an opening in his head, and by the same means the noise is

occasioned. I saw one of these at the Carmelite nunnery at Quito, having

two indians upon it carrying a corpse on their shoulders, laid on a

hollow bier resembling a butcher's tray; when the jar was inclined

backwards and forwards a plaintive cry was heard, resembling that made

by the indians at a funeral. The jars and other utensils were of good

clay, and well baked, which, with the ingenious construction just

alluded to, prove that the indians were acquainted with the art of

pottery. I have also found in these huacas long pieces of cotton cloth,

similar to that which is made by the indians at the present time, called

tocuyo; many calabashes, quantities of indian corn or maize, quinua,

beans, and the leaves of plantains; feathers of the ostrich from the

plains of Buenos Ayres, and different dresses; some spades of palm wood,

similar to the _chonta_ of Guayaquil, and of which none grow near to

Supe; lances and clubs of the same wood; jars filled with chicha, which

was quite sweet when discovered, but became sour after being exposed to

the air for a short time. I have also found small dolls made of cotton,

their dress similar to that worn at present by the females of Cajatambo

and Huarochiri: it consists of a white petticoat, _anaco_, a piece of

coloured flannel, two corners of which are fastened on the left shoulder

by a cactus thorn, the middle being passed under the right arm, girt

round the waist with a coloured fillet, and open on the left side down

to the bottom; this part of the dress was called the _chaupe anaco_; a

piece of flannel, of another colour, of about two feet square, was

brought over the shoulders and fastened on the breast with two large

pins of silver or gold, called _topas_: this part of the dress is called

the _yiglla_. The hair is divided into two side tresses, and these are

fastened behind, at the extremity, with a coloured fillet. The

principal motive for digging the huacas is to search for treasure; I

have found rings and small cups of gold; they are beat out very thin,

and their size is that of half a hen's egg-shell; it is supposed that

they were worn in the ears, for a small shank is attached to them, like

the buttons worn by the indian females at present. Slips of silver,

about two inches broad and ten long, as thin as paper, are also

frequently dug up. Any small piece of gold which was buried with them is

generally found in their mouths.

Owing to the nitrous quality of the sand, and to its almost perfect

dryness, the bodies are quite entire, and not the least defaced,

although many of them have been buried at least three centuries: the

clothes are also in the same state of preservation, but both soon decay

after being exposed to the sun and air. I dug up one man whose hair grew

from his eyebrows, covering his forehead, or rather he had no visible

forehead; a great quantity of dried herbs had been buried with him, some

small pots, and several dolls: the indians who saw him assured me, that

he had been a _brujo_, a wizard or diviner; but I was inclined to

believe him to have been a physician: however, the two sciences might

be considered by them as somewhat similar.

Many persons are persuaded that these huacas were only burying grounds,

and not places of residence for the living: if so, it shews the respect

which the people had for their dead; but as some of the tribes of wild

indians bury their dead in the house where they lived, and then abandon

it, building for themselves another, this appears to be a sufficient

reason for suspecting that such was the practice with the ancient

Peruvians.

I resided several months at the small village of la Barranca, and I here

witnessed the great earthquake that happened on the 1st of December,

1806, supposed to be one of the periodical shocks felt in Lima and its

vicinity; they have occurred in the following years:--1586, 1609, 1655,

1690, 1716, 1746, and 1806. This earthquake, however, did not extend its

desolating effects to the capital; these appear to have been limited by

the rivers of Barranca and Huaura, an extent of about ten leagues; but

the shock was felt at Ica, a hundred leagues to the southward, although

it was not perceived at Huaras, thirty leagues to the eastward.

No hollow sound was observed to precede this shock, a circumstance

particularly remarked by several of the old people, who said, that it

came on so suddenly, that the dogs did not hear it, nor the pigs smell

it, before every one felt the shock. I inquired their reason for thus

expressing themselves, and was informed, that it had always been found

when the shocks were severe, that they were announced by the howling of

the dogs and the squealing of the pigs. This effect, I think, can only

be accounted for by the dogs lying on the ground, and either hearing the

noise or feeling the motion before either become perceptible to the

people; and probably if any gaseous vapour be ejected the olfactory

nerves of the pigs may be affected by it. Immediately after the

earthquake many people saw red flames rising out of the sea, and others

burning over a low piece of ground on the shore called the Totoral. The

cattle which were feeding here at the time, died shortly afterwards from

the effect produced on the grass by this burning vapour.

The motion of the earth during the shock was oscillatory, resembling the

waves of the sea; and the sensation which I experienced was similar to

that which is felt in a boat when approaching the land. The motion was

so great, that some bottles of wine and brandy, placed on a shelf about

two yards high and three from the door, were thrown from a shop into the

street to a distance of more than two feet from the door; if, therefore,

they fell from the shelf without any projecting impulse to impel them

forward, the wall must have inclined so as to form with its natural base

an angle of 25 degrees.

The ground was rent in several places, and quantities of sand and a

species of mud were thrown into the air. Trees were torn up by the

roots; the church and several of the houses, both here and at Supe, were

destroyed; while Pativilca, a town at only two leagues distance, on the

opposite side of the river, suffered very trivially. The undulations of

the earth lasted twenty-one minutes; but there was no repetition of

shocks, nor was any subterraneous noise heard. The perpendicular height

of the land on the sea side is fifty-three yards, notwithstanding which

several canoes and boats were thrown by the waves nearly to the top, and

left among the trees, and for more than two months afterwards enormous

quantities of fish drifted daily on the beach.

Perhaps the effect produced on the grass at the Totoral, and this on the

fish, may throw some light on the problem of the sterility occasioned

by earthquakes, which I have already noticed--in particular, as the

gaseous matter having become condensed was left on the surface to

produce its effect on the ground, where it could not be washed off by

the rains.

An old mulatto, one of the four men who escaped at Callao in 1746, when

that city was submersed in the sea, assured me, that the convulsion

there did not appear to him so terrible as the one I have just

mentioned.

Near to this village is a convenient port and landing place, called de

la Barranca, and about a mile to the northward of the village is the

river de la Barranca. During the rainy months, in the mountainous

districts of the interior, it is so filled with water, that its passage

is attended with considerable danger without the assistance of the

_chimbadoros_, ferrymen. The bottom is very stony, which also occasions

much danger, if the horses are not sure-footed and accustomed to ford

rivers. The rapidity of the current precludes the use of boats or

canoes, and its width would render the construction of a bridge

extremely expensive. I have often crossed it when the water covered the

space of half a mile, and was divided into thirteen or fourteen

branches, through some of which the horse on which I was mounted had to

swim. About six leagues from the main coast road, and the usual fording

place of the river, there is a bridge of ropes, made from the fibres of

the maguey leaves. These are first crushed between two stones, immersed

in water till the vegetable matter easily separates from the fibres,

when they are taken out, beat with a stick, washed, and dried; the ropes

are then twisted by hand, without the assistance of any machinery, the

fibrous parts of the leaves being inserted when the diminished strength

of the rope requires them. This bridge is called _de Cochas_, from the

small village which stands near to it: it is thirty-eight yards across.

On one side, the principal ropes, five in number, each about twelve

inches in circumference, are fastened to a large beam laid on the

ground, secured by two strong posts buried nearly to their tops: on the

opposite side the beam is secured by being placed behind two small

rocks. Across these five ropes a number of the flower stalks of the

maguey are laid, and upon them a quantity of old ropes and the fibrous

parts of leaves are strewed, to preserve the stalks and the principal

ropes. A net-work, instead of railings, is placed on each side, to

prevent the passengers from falling into the river. Although the whole

construction appears so flimsy, the breadth being only five feet, I

have seen droves of laden mules, as well as horned cattle, cross it; and

I have repeatedly done so myself, on horseback, after I had reconciled

myself to its tremulous motion.

These swing bridges, which are common in South America, are called

_puentes de maroma_, or _de amaca_; and by the indians, _cimpachaca_,

bridge of ropes, or rather, of tresses--as cimpa signifies a platted

tress. Some persons, however, call them _huascachaca_, huasca being more

properly a twisted rope; but I apprehend that they were originally made

from platted ropes, in which the insertion of leaves is more easy.

Bridges of this description were general in Peru before the conquest,

and they are unquestionably the best calculated for a mountainous

country, where some of the ravines requiring them are very steep, and

the currents impetuous. Bridges were likewise formed by the indians by

laying large beams across stone piers; but these were not so common nor

so appropriate as the rope bridges. The largest of them was over the

river Apurimac, which runs between Lima and Cusco, and is crossed by

travellers who frequent this road to and from the ancient and modern

capitals of Peru. The bridge was two hundred and forty feet long, and

nine feet broad; the ends of the principal ropes were fastened on one

side the river to rings of stone, cut in the solid rock: one of these

was broken in 1819, when the stream rose so high that it caught the

bridge, and dragged it away.

Two leagues to the northward of Barranca is the neat village of

Pativilca, without any indian population: it was formerly a country

covered with wood, and a place of retreat for malefactors; but the

Viceroy Castel-forte sent people to form a village, and ordered a church

to be built, offering an indult to all persons who should leave the

bush, and build themselves houses in the town. By this wise policy he

accomplished his end--reclaiming many outcasts, and rendering the road

secure to travellers.

While residing at Barranca I had an excellent opportunity of judging of

the condition of the slaves on the plantations; and I shall here give a

brief account of one of the best regulated that I visited, which was

Huaito, the property of Doña Josefa Salasar de Monteblanco.

This plantation is principally dedicated to the cultivation of cane and

the elaboration of sugar; but a part is destined to ordinary

agricultural pursuits, such as the growth of maize, beans, camotes,

pumpkins, &c., beside some pasture land for cattle. The number of slaves

employed on it, including all descriptions, is six hundred and

seventy-two; and the weight of sugar produced annually, according to the

statement given to me by Don Manuel Sotil, who superintended the

manufactory, is as follows:--

Loaves of clayed Sugar 9555, each weighing }

on an average 50 lbs. at 10 dollars per } 47770 dollars.

quintal }

Chancaca, or coarse brown Sugar in cakes 6000

Coarse Sugar made from the refuse 1500

Molasses sold on the estate 600

-----

Value of produce of Sugar 55870

-----

Expences:--Clothing of slaves at 10 dollars each 3720

Chaplain 200

Surgeon 300

Overseer 500

Sugar boiler 800

Premium to Slaves 600

Drugs 200

----

6320

====

The result of this statement is, that after defraying all the expences

of the cultivation of the cane, and the elaboration of the sugar, the

profit amounted to 49550 dollars.

Besides this profit, another of considerable importance was derived

from the feeding of cattle on extensive fields of lucern, and the

breeding of hogs. There was also generally, a surplus of maize and beans

beyond the consumption of the estate; but without this, according to the

valuation made of the whole estate, including buildings, slaves and

utensils, which amounted to 962000, the clear profit on this capital

exceeded five per cent.; which, with the assistance of the requisite

machinery for cultivating and harvesting the cane, and manufacturing the

sugar, might be doubled.

I have made no deductions for the food of the slaves, because they were

maintained by the produce of the estate, leaving a great surplus for

sale; probably as much in value as would defray the expences of their

clothing.

The cane usually cultivated in Peru is the creole; but in the year 1802

plants of the Otaheitean cane were first introduced at Guayaquil, by Don

Jose Merino, who procured them from Jamaica, whence in 1806 they were

brought to some of the plantations of Peru, and from the advantageous

result which has been experienced in the growth of this cane, it would

follow that the creole will soon be exploded, notwithstanding the

assertion, that the sugar obtained from the cane of Otaheite abounds

more in mucilage than in essential salt, and that it is susceptible of

but a feeble consistency, which exposes it to decomposition on long

voyages, or if it be warehoused any considerable length of time. But the

Peruvian cultivator has neither of these drawbacks to fear, because

there is always an immediate demand for it at home, or the longest

voyage to which it is subjected is to Chile.

The Otaheitean cane, on the same land, and with equal labour with the

creole, grows to the height of nine or ten feet in eighteen or twenty

months, while the creole only grows six in thirty-five or thirty-six

months, at which times they are respectively in a state of maturity. The

large canes of the former are from seven to eight inches in diameter,

but those of the latter seldom exceed three and a half, and the same

measure of juice produces nearly the same weight of sugar: besides this,

the saving of labour at the mills and manufactory is very great. The

cane of Otaheite is more tenacious, and comes from the cylinders whole,

while the creole is frequently completely crushed, and incapable of

being returned to the operation of the cylinders, on which account a

considerable portion of the juice is lost; the pressed cane of Otaheite

is also conveyed to the furnace with much more facility than the other.

The cane is usually planted in the foggy season, that it may have taken

root before the dry weather commences; the land is prepared by repeated

ploughings, and by breaking the lumps of earth with clubs, harrows and

rollers for this purpose being unknown. The ploughs are similar to those

used in Chile, and which I have already described. If suitable ploughs

and other utensils were introduced, it is easy to conceive what great

relief would be given to manual labour; and if the horse or mule were

substituted for the drowsy, slow-paced bullock, the result would be much

more favourable.

The canes are planted in drills made with hoes, so formed, that when the

water for irrigation enters the upper end of a field it can flow without

any hinderance to the lower; but before this operation of watering takes

place the earth is hilled up to the plants. According to the dryness of

the season, and the quality of the land, irrigation is repeated three or

four times during the summer, and owing to the disposal of the furrows

it is neither laborious nor troublesome. The water is generally allowed

to remain on the ground twenty-four hours.

When the cane is ripe it is cut close to the ground, and all the leaves

are stript off, which with the rubbish are left until the whole field be

cut, when they are burnt; and immediately afterwards the roots are

irrigated. The cane is carried to the mill on the backs of asses; but

for this purpose carts might be used with much saving of labour.

In some parts of the province of Guayaquil and on the coast of Choco the

natives, who cultivate the cane for their household consumption of

molasses, guarapo, and rum, cut all that is ripe, leaving that which is

green; they next bare the roots, mix the soil so obtained with the soil

in the furrow, by digging and turning them over, and then hill up the

cane again. By repeating this operation every time they cut their cane,

they have a constant succession of crops, and the plantation never

fails; while in Peru a plantation only yields two crops, for the third

is often scarcely sufficient to plant the ground for the ensuing

harvest.

The general method of pressing the cane is by means of three vertical

grooved brass cylinders, which are put in motion by two pairs of oxen,

yoked to two opposite points of a large wooden wheel, placed above the

cylinders, and attached at its centre to the axle of the central

cylinder, the cogs or teeth of which communicate the rotatory motion to

the other two. This tardy method of pressing is used on many

plantations; but on the one I am now speaking of vertical water-wheels

supply the place of the bullocks, one wheel being attached to each mill.

There is however great room for improvement, particularly in the

adoption of iron cog and lantern wheels, or at least of metal cogs to

the large wheels, iron axletrees, &c.; but rude as the present plan is,

the expence of keeping a considerable number of oxen is avoided.

The juice of the cane is received in the boiling house, in a large

bell-metal pan, a small quantity of lime being first thrown into it;

from this receiver it is carried in large calabashes to a pan ten feet

deep, where it is evaporated to a proper consistency, and at intervals

caustic ley is added to it, prepared at a considerable expence from the

ashes of the _espino_, or _huarango_. After throwing into the pan about

half a pint of this ley, a considerable quantity of fecula rises to the

top, which is immediately taken off with a skimmer made of a large

calabash, bored full of holes. When the syrup has become cool it is put

into another pan, and evaporated to a proper consistency for

crystallization; it is then poured into the moulds, made of common baked

clay, in which it is repeatedly stirred, and on the following day it is

transferred to the purging house, where the plug is taken from the

bottom of the mould, and the coarse molasses run from the sugar. It is

next removed to the claying house; each mould, like an inverted cone, is

placed on a jar, and soft clay of the consistency of batter poured on

the sugar. This operation is repeated three or four times, or till the

loaf is purged from the molasses it contained, when it is taken out of

the mould and carried into the store to dry. The whole process requires

a month or five weeks, according to the season, for it is much sooner

ready for the store house in damp weather than in dry. Unlike other

countries, where the cane is only cut during a certain season, on the

plantations on the coast of Peru it is cut and sugar is made from it

during the whole year.

The pans for boiling the juice are of brass, being a mixture of copper

and tin; the lower pan is generally three feet in diameter at the

bottom, five feet at the top, and five feet deep; the rim which is

placed above this is three feet deep, and above that the brick and wood

work commences, making the whole boiler ten feet deep. The pans,

cylinders, and receivers are cast on the estate by the slaves, and by

them also all the carpentery and blacksmith work are performed.

I have been rather more particular on this subject than some persons

may think necessary; but it has been with the view of opening another

outlet to British manufactures, namely, that of iron machinery and

implements of agriculture. If the evaporation of the cane juice were

effected by heat communicated by steam, or by preventing atmospheric

pressure on the surface of the liquid while boiling, a considerable

quantity of sugar which is burnt by the present method, and which

constitutes the molasses, would be saved: it would be an advantage of at

least thirty per cent. At the same time that I advert to iron machinery

for the mills, as an article worthy the attention of mercantile

speculators, I would also recommend some stills on an improved

principle, for the brandy distilleries at Pisco, Ica, Cañete, and other

vine countries, as well as those of rum; because the political change in

South America will annul the prohibitory colonial law, and because the

sugar manufacturer would be glad to convert to his advantage that refuse

from which the rum is distilled; at present it is a nuisance to him, or

if applied to any use, it is thrown to the oxen and asses, and they eat

it with great avidity.

The management of the slaves here is worthy of the imitation of every

planter, both with regard to the comfort of the negroes, and the

profitable result to the owner. I shall describe the laws established,

and mention some other regulations which I suggested to Doña Josefa,

which she approved, and put in practice: she afterwards frequently told

me, that they deserved to be generally adopted, because they would

eventually tend to ameliorate the condition of the slave and benefit the

proprietor.

A slave was never flogged at Huaito without the consent of the mistress,

who, having heard the complaint made by the overseer or other

task-master, adjudged the number of lashes to be inflicted, or else

determined on some other means of punishment, which she thought more

proper. Her motive for this regulation was, to prevent their being

improperly chastised by any one during the heat of passion, or perhaps

under the influence of revenge. The slave was never questioned as to the

imputed delinquency, because, as she observed, it would only induce them

to disregard the overseer, if he were not implicitly believed, or the

slave were allowed to contradict him. When any doubt presented itself,

she would sometimes send for some other slave, who had either been

present or was near at the time, and make the necessary inquiry; but she

would often say, that she trusted very little to what they said about

each other, quoting the old Spanish proverb as a reason, _la peor cuña,

is del mismo palo_, the worst wedge is from the same block.

No slave was punished privately; those at least were present who were

acquainted with the crime which had been committed.

If a slave absented himself, and were afterwards caught, he was

sentenced for the first offence to carry a chain at his leg as many

weeks as he had been absent days; for a repetition, he was sentenced to

the mill, where the most laborious work is to be done; it is also

esteemed the most degrading situation, very few except delinquents being

employed at it. If a recurrence took place, the slave was kept at the

mill during the day with a chain to his leg, and slept in the gaol

during the night. If the fugitive returned home and presented himself to

his mistress, he was pardoned for the first offence; the penalty of the

first was inflicted if it were the second; and that of the second if it

were the third; after which, if the slave persevered in running away he

was sold.

To promote marriages, all children born out of wedlock were sold while

young; and as the slaves, except some few domestic servants, were all

negroes, if a tawny child made its appearance it was also sold: this

mode was adopted to prevent the negresses from having any intercourse

with the people of the neighbouring villages.

The negresses from the age of eleven or twelve years were kept separate

from the men, and slept within the walls of the house, under the care of

a _duenna_, until they were married.

The greatest care was taken of child-bearing women, both with regard to

relief from work and the administration of proper food; a separate

building, called the lying-in hospital, was furnished with beds and

other comforts for them; and if a slave reared six children so that they

could walk, she obtained her liberty, or a release from work for herself

and husband for three days in each week; when, if they worked on the

estate, they were regularly paid for their labour.

As an improvement of this regulation, I proposed the allowing one day of

rest weekly either to the father or the mother for each child; and Doña

Josefa acknowledged the propriety of it, for, said she, the manumission

of a slave is his ruin if young, and the origin of his distress if old.

She assured me that, at different times, she had given freedom to fifty

slaves, out of whom, she was sorry to say, she could not find one

useful member of society; much less one that was grateful to herself,

although all of them were young at the time they were manumitted, and

some had been put to different trades at her expence. I have frequently

observed, that nine-tenths of the convicts for different crimes at Lima

were freed slaves, generally zambos.

I am convinced from experience, that if proper magistrates were

appointed in all districts where there is a number of slaves, each

having a competent salary for his subsistence, but removeable every

year, to prevent private connexions with the planters, that the state of

slavery would be freed from its greatest evil, that of a human creature

being subjected to the whip of an offended, irritable, or unjust master;

for how can justice prevail where the plaintiff is the judge, and the

defendant the criminal? or when _a prima instantia_ the accused is

brought to receive his sentence, or suffer the infliction of an

arbitrary punishment. If proprietors were prohibited from using the

whip, or any other cruel chastisements, without the concurrence of an

order from the magistrate, who should inquire summarily into the

circumstances, under the penalty of a heavy fine, the odious epithet of

slave-driver would lose its stigma, at the same time that the slave

would reverence the law that protected as well as punished him, instead

of hating his arbitrary master, and lurking for an opportunity of

revenge. It is the interest as well as the duty of a master to preserve

the health and life of his slave, and the slave has only to dread the

presence of his master under the influence of passion or misinformation:

let this occasion for the exercise of cruelty be avoided, by

transferring the authority to punish from the interested master to an

unbiassed person, and the hand of justice would fall like the

invigorating dew of heaven, while that of passion often rages like the

destructive tornado.

The principal food of the slaves at Huaito was the flour of maize boiled

with water to the consistency of a hardish paste, to this was added a

quantity of molasses; and beans boiled in the same manner. They had meat

once or twice a week, either fresh or jerked beef. The quantity allowed

was quite sufficient; and I have frequently seen them feeding their

poultry with what they could not eat. Each married man and each widow or

widower was presented annually with a small pig, which they reared with

the refuse of the cane, and some pumpkins which they cultivated: it was

afterwards fattened with maize from their own small plots of ground.

This was an inducement to the slaves to marry, and it kept them from

strolling abroad on Sundays and holidays. Indeed, all the married had

small portions of land allotted to them, and were allowed the use of the

oxen and ploughs belonging to the estate. On an average two hundred fat

pigs were sold annually by the slaves at Huaito, and these generally

produced twelve dollars each; so that two thousand four hundred dollars

were distributed yearly among the slaves for this article alone; but

several of the more industrious fed two, three, or four pigs, by

purchasing maize for them. A convincing proof of their comfortable life

was afforded on a Sunday afternoon; many of the negresses, dressed in

white muslins or gaudily printed calicoes, gold ear-rings, rosaries and

necklaces, stockings and coloured shoes, and a profusion of

handkerchiefs, might be seen dancing with the negro youths to the sound

of their large drums and unharmonious songs: this exhibition certainly

evinced that their minds were uncankered with care.

Each slave had two working dresses given to him yearly; the men a

flannel shirt and woollen trowsers--the women a flannel petticoat and a

cotton shirt with long sleeves; they had also an allowance of blankets

and ponchos, but whatever other clothes they possessed were purchased

by themselves. Weekly premiums and a small quantity of tobacco were

given according to the class of work in which they were individually

employed; they were also permitted to have the skimmings and other

refuse from the sugar-house for their _guarapo_ or fermented drink.

The _galpon_, where the slaves lived, on this as on every other

plantation, was a large square enclosure, walled round about twelve feet

high; it was divided into streets, having an open square in the centre

for dancing and their other amusements; the small houses were uniform,

and whitewashed, which with the clean streets made a very neat

appearance. The slaves slept in the galpon, by which means they were

kept from visiting the neighbouring villages or plantations and from

committing depredations.

Mass was celebrated every morning at six o'clock, and those who chose to

hear it had sufficient time, as the field labourers never went to work

till seven; their tasks were light, they had two hours' rest at noon,

and always returned at six in the evening, and many at four in the

afternoon; after which they attended to their own little farms. I am

certain that a labourer in England does more work in _one_ day than any

slave I ever saw in the Spanish colonies performs in _three_. Those

employed at the mills are more hours at work; but this is considered a

punishment: those employed in the sugar-house have also more hours to

attend; but they have always sufficient rest between the time of

emptying one pan and waiting till it boils again, and this leisure some

occupy in making baskets or in knitting stockings for their own profit.

The slaves are mustered at mass on Sundays and holidays, and are

required to confess, and receive the communion once a year. The chaplain

teaches the boys and girls the necessary prayers and catechisms, and

superintends the moral conduct of the slaves, being allowed to order

them for punishment in cases of misbehaviour, on reporting them to their

mistress.

I am ignorant of the treatment which the slaves may receive in the

British colonies; but I feel loath to believe that that mercy which I

have observed to guide the actions of a Spaniard or a Spanish creole

should be a stranger in the breast of an Englishman or an English

creole. If the lot of English slaves be not worse than that of Spanish

slaves, they are more fortunate and more happy than the labouring

classes at home. I have no doubt, but that if a slave were brought to

England, and subjected to the half-starved and hard-worked state of a

day-labourer--to experience all his penury and all his privations--he

would lift up his hands, and request that he might return to his master,

who fed him when hungry, clothed him when naked, and attended to his

wants when sick. If any thing be really wanting to ameliorate the

condition of the English slave, let a wise legislature enact such

regulations as will secure it to him; not place in his hand a weapon

wherewith to sacrifice his master in a fit of frantic exasperation; let

English slaves enjoy the blessings of the English poor, the boast of

every Englishman--an impartial distribution of justice--an equality in

the administration of the law. It is as preposterous to suppose that the

same law should not govern the master and the slave, as that a judge

should not be amenable to the law by which he judges others: and I

sincerely hope, for the honour of my country and countrymen, that they

all feel as did my Uncle Toby: "'tis the fortune of war that has put the

whip into our hands now, where it will be afterwards heaven only knows;

but be it where it will, the brave, Trim, will never use it unkindly."

END OF VOLUME I.

_Printed by Harris and Co.

Liverpool._

Historical and Descriptive Narrative of Twenty Years' Residence in South America (Vol 1 of 3) Containing travels in Arauco, Chile, Peru, and Colombia; with an account of the revolution, its rise, progress, and results · 第 16 / 16 章