down through one of the many cañons leading from the Burre mountains,
we found the mail coach which Captain Skillman had taken from San
Antonio standing in our road. My first thought was, that another train
had been cut off by the Indians, but an examination soon showed the
nature of the accident; one of the hind wheels had evidently crushed
down, and the two forward ones were gone. The wagon stood propped up
carefully in the middle of the road. We concluded that Capt. Skillman
had gone on with his two forward wheels, making what travellers term
a “cache” among the surrounding rocks of all his spare articles. This
we afterwards found to be the case. We stopped here only about as long
as it takes to write the fact, then rolled away over the plaza on our
journey. About sunset, we had a small sample of what might be suffered
for want of water, if men were ignorant of the road. We had brought
water from where we breakfasted to answer for our dinner uses, but the
day had been very warm, and all of us had drunk very freely, until our
canteens had become low. We were deceived by some wagon tracks into
turning off from the main road, losing considerable time in finding
our way back again, both men and mules being very thirsty. We found
water in wagon ruts and holes in the ground. Down went men on the
ground, mules and men both drinking in the same manner from the same
holes. More accurate information as to distances, and the consequent
preparation we now make for any portion of our journey, where we know
there is a long stretch without water, does away with any danger from
thirst, so far as the men and passengers are concerned; the mules
sometimes have to go all day without water. Camped at 11 o’clock.
Made 43 miles to-day.
_August 27._--Off at 5.30 a. m. Crossed the Saur river this morning;
found it quite a stream, and the land swampy on both sides, with plenty
of water at the crossing. I had a splendid shot at a fine flock of wild
ducks. At 4 p. m. we camped for dinner in the Chiracahui mountains at
what is termed Apache Spring. Here we met the train of Paymaster Major
Brice, _en route_ for Fort Bliss. He had been paying off the troops at
Fort Buchanan.
Showery this afternoon. About noon we saw the tracks of Captain
Skillman’s two wheels; he was returning eastward; he took a different
road from the one we came. I regretted missing him. This pass through
the Chiracahui mountains is the most tedious of any we have on our road
through Arizona, though this is only slow by comparison with the pass
through the Sierra Madre. Though slow, the road is excellent, excepting
for a short distance and the climbing of a number of steep hills.
From the Rio Saur to Dos Cabesas Spring is thirty-two miles. We made
this in seven hours driving time. We breakfasted at the Saur; made two
camps in the distance, making our last drive for the day after we had
passed Dos Cabesas spring. Camped at 12 o’clock, midnight. Made 47
miles to-day.
_August 28._--Harnessed at 5.45 a. m. To-day we left the main travelled
road, now in use by the troops, and by trains of supplies _en route_
to Fort Buchanan. This road turns southward before coming to the San
Pedro river, crossing that stream higher up than we do. The main road
is in nearly a due west course till we reach the river; then we turn
northward six miles before coming to the ford. This cut-off is not so
well defined as the road we had been travelling. Our route lies through
Tucson, to which place there has been but little direct trade; and as
this was only the second mail coach which has come over the road, we
found the way by no means very clearly marked out. We did not deem it
prudent to cross the San Pedro river to-night, as the recent rains had
swollen it to a much higher point than usual. Camped for the night on
the eastern branch of the San Pedro at 11.15 p. m. Made 42 miles to-day.
_August 29._--Crossed the San Pedro as soon as it was light enough
to see. About 10 o’clock this morning, as we were making our second
drive for the day, I saw a party approaching us mounted on mules. Rode
forward to meet them. They proved to be the mail party from San Diego,
who left there 9th August with an outfit of saddle mules and pack
animals. Our agent had reached San Diego with men and supplies on the
21st of July, in ample time to have started the mail of the 24th, if
he could have procured animals.--(See Journal of June 20.) This mail
had been twenty days in coming from San Diego to our place of meeting,
forty miles east of Tucson. Our mail had been twenty days coming twice
the distance. I had sent positive orders in my letters, per steamer
of 20th June, to San Francisco, that the mail should be started in a
coach, if possible, but that at all events it was only to be sent as
far east as the Pimos villages.--(See Journal of July 24.) Mr. Birch
had deemed it best in San Francisco to alter this plan, and ordered
complete outfits to be sent from San Diego, to go through to San
Antonio. I ordered this mail party back, to return with me to Tucson,
as nothing was to be gained by their continuing on. At 8 o’clock I
mounted my mule, and went on to Tucson with two men. We reached there
at 2 o’clock in the morning. My purpose in hastening on in advance of
the train was to lose no time, but to purchase mules at once, with
which to proceed to San Diego with the through mail. I wished also, if
possible, to buy some description of vehicle, in which to send the mail
back to El Paso. Train camped in a drizzling rain at 11 o’clock.
Made 49 miles to-day.
_August 30._--Commenced operations at daylight. I found here Mr. Tivey,
formerly of Texas, a surveyor from California, who was _en route_ for
Santa Fé. He had with him a wagon which would suit our purpose, also
a dozen of good mules; he had been waiting some weeks for company. I
made an arrangement with this gentleman by which he loaned the mail
party his outfit, and agreed to accompany them to La Mesilla. This he
did, partly for the consideration of protection, but principally from
public spirit and a desire to see the new mail line go into operation
at once; besides, having been an extensive traveller himself in new
countries, he had a good idea of the obstacles to be overcome in our
early organization. The wagon and mules belonging to Mr. Tivey, added
to those mules I had brought on which were in condition to return,
made a respectable outfit to use in sending the mail back to El Paso.
I made up another outfit for myself by taking the inferior of the
two carriages I had brought from La Mesilla, purchasing seven mules,
and selecting five more from among those belonging to the San Diego
party, whom I had turned back. To aid me in taking the mail through to
its destination, a distance of 469 miles, I took two Americans and a
Mexican, making four of us in the party, as we should soon be beyond
the point where the Apaches are in the practice of roaming, and,
therefore, so strong a party as came from La Mesilla to Tucson would
be unnecessary. For the first time since coming on to the road I took
command of the mail party. To make the needed connexion here between
the eastern and western divisions of our road, I made two arrangements
of mail parties. I detailed two men to come on slowly to the Pimos
villages, with instructions to await there the next mail from San
Antonio. On receiving the mail they were to push on with all speed for
Yuma, 180 miles from Pimos, where I would leave further instructions.
I took with me two other men, whom I also proposed leaving at the
Pimos under instruction to return to Tucson with the next mail going
east, which mail would have left San Diego August 24. At Tucson they
were to deliver the mail to the present train, which would wait as
long as possible. Got away about noon, and in the night met with a
disagreeable accident: the perch of our carriage broke. We spliced
it with mezquit branches and ropes, but, in the first gully we went
through, we broke down again even worse than before. This second
accident happened at 2 o’clock in the morning; our carriage was a
complete wreck, but in any view of the case it was apparently best to
camp until daylight; we could then see whether the damages could be
repaired or the carriage would have to be abandoned. Camped about 3
o’clock in the morning. Made 36 miles since leaving Tucson.
_August 31._--At daylight we commenced repairing damages. I found that
by taking out one of the standards to the top of the carriage, and
wrapping that and a piece of broken whiffle tree tightly with raw hides
soaked soft in water, the coach promised well for a temporary purpose
with a light weight. To lighten us I left on the road our agent for the
Pimos station whom I had with me, also the two men who were to return
to Tucson with the mail. I then proceeded on my journey towards San
Diego. Camped about 12 o’clock on the banks of the Gila river. Made 40
miles to-day.
_September 1._--Off at daylight this morning; reached the first
village of the Pimos about sunrise, and there I bought the corn
necessary for our mules, a little wheat for same purpose, and a few
beans, also a pair of chickens. (Wheat should be fed sparingly, and
soaked before using.) Our barter consisted of cotton cloth and a few
bells, both of which I purchased in Tucson. Camped for breakfast at
the Maricopa wells, which we have since selected as the site for our
station; remained at the wells until 3 p. m. waiting for our agent
to come up whom I yesterday left behind on the road. Finally he came
along, and we prepared for a start. While camping at the wells I was
witness to the largest Indian battle of the times. The Yuma Indians,
aided by the Mojaves and Tonto Apaches as their allies, attacked the
Maricopas just before daylight this morning. The Maricopas and Pimos
are allied strongly together. The former being comparatively few in
numbers, are rather under the protection of the more numerous Pimos.
The Maricopas are the more western of the two tribes, and as the Yumas
approached from down the river, their villages were consequently the
first attacked. Some warriors and their families were killed, and their
huts fired before the presence of the Yumas was known. We saw the huts
blazing and thought they were signal fires. Besides warriors on foot,
every Indian that could get a horse was in the fight, many of them
going a half dozen miles to reach the battle ground. One aged chief,
whose wife had been killed by the Yumas, rode furiously up to our camp,
foaming at the mouth, and begged of us in good Spanish to aid them
against the Yumas; of course we declined. When the battle was over he
refused to speak or understand a word of Spanish.
The principal fight was along the bank of the Gila, not half a mile
from our camp. One hundred and four Yumas left their villages at the
junction of the Gila and Colorado, led on by a young and ambitious
chief, whose new dignity required some striking act to dazzle his
people. He and ninety-three of his warriors were killed within an half
hour, on the side of a hill in plain view from the spot where I was
reclining under a tree.
At this place the river makes what is termed “the big bend” of the
Gila; the road lies nearly due east and west, while the river makes
a horse shoe, probably four times as long as the distance from the
Maricopa to Tazotal, at which place the road touches the river again.
By the schedule of distances you will perceive it is forty miles from
Maricopa to Tazotal.
We started from Maricopa Wells at 3 p. m. and drove all night, reaching
Tazotal for our breakfast camp a little after sunrise.
Made 69 miles to-day.
_September 2._--After breakfast this morning we made a drive of ten
miles, and then lay by to avoid travelling during the hottest part of
the day. The four of us take turns in sleeping and herding mules. Fed
our animals on the Mesquit beans, of which there is a great abundance
along the Gila river. Started from camp at 3 o’clock p. m.; about
sunset met the mail party of August 24, from San Diego, equipped in
the same excellent manner for the service as the party of August 9.
The train I had come on with from El Paso, together with the addition
made by Mr. Tivey, was waiting at Tucson for this mail; to expedite
its progress, I had brought two men to the Maricopa station to take it
back to Tucson, (see journal of August 30,) but I had also left orders
with these men not to wait any longer than sunset to-night, as the
conductor and train must return to La Mesilla at once to be in time to
bring westward, from El Paso to Tucson, the mail of September 9, from
San Antonio. In view of these orders, together with the certainty of
not being able to make the connexion at Tucson, I turned this party
back to Fort Yuma. I gave instructions to the conductor of this mail to
equip himself and two men for a light service of three days’ duration,
and to be in readiness to take the next mail, namely, that of September
9, from San Diego, and carry it with all possible speed to Maricopa
station, at which place the carriage, or an escort for Tucson, would
thereafter be waiting to receive it. We drove until 10 p. m., then
camped on the banks of the Gila, waiting for the moon to rise before
attempting to cross. Moon rose nearly full, and at about 12 o’clock we
crossed and recrossed the Gila, leaving ourselves on the southern bank
from which we started. Drove until about three o’clock in the morning.
Made 40 miles to-day.
_September 3._--Started at daylight. Camped about four hours at noon
to rest ourselves and animals. Started at four o’clock, and drove till
dark. Started again at ten o’clock, p. m., and drove till two o’clock
in the morning.
Made 56 miles to-day.
_September 4._--Off at daylight; we should have made a good morning
drive, but our carriage stuck in a mud hole, and we had to lighten it
by stripping and wading in; even then we hauled it out with difficulty.
It had been raining on the Gila during the past few weeks, and the
road in many places is gullied, while mud holes are common, and I
noticed considerable standing water. We reached Colorado city, opposite
Fort Yuma, at 11 o’clock p. m., here we changed a few of our mules,
took the mail for San Diego from the quartermaster, and repaired our
coach with additions of leather and raw hide. These operations consumed
the balance of the night, and it was daylight when we hitched up for a
start.
Made 49 miles to-day.
_September 5._--Crossed the Colorado about sunrise over an excellent
ferry, then drove to Cook’s Wells to breakfast, 20 miles. We remained
encamped at Cook’s Wells to rest ourselves and animals till nearly
sunset, and then started to cross what is considered the worst portion
of the Colorado desert, namely, a distance of twenty-two miles through
heavy sand from Cook’s Wells to Alamo Mucho. This journey consumed the
night. We reached the Alamo Mucho wells at daylight.
Made 42 miles to-day.
_September 6._--To-day we pushed all day long to get over the desert,
and reached Indian Wells about sunset, twenty-two miles from Alamo
Mucho; our road was much better than that of last night. Here we
expected to find water for ourselves and stock, but an encampment of
Yuma Indians had used it nearly all up, and we could only procure
enough for our own dinner; none was to be had for the mules, so we
tried to console them with a feed of corn. The want of water left us
no resource but to push on for Carissa creek, thirty-two miles more.
We travelled all night and reached Carissa creek about sunrise in the
morning. This portion of the road is by no means a bad one.
Made 52 miles to-day.
_September 7._--We found our fourteen animals were now very much
fatigued. They have had no sleep from Fort Yuma to Carissa, while many
of them have come with me all the way from Tucson in less than eight
days; they had had no water for twenty-four hours, that is, from Alamo
Mucho to this place, Carissa; here they filled themselves at once with
the medicated waters of the creek, and thus destroyed their appetites,
so that they would not eat a proper quantity of hay or grain. At 9
o’clock, when we left, they were very tired, sleepy, and unwilling to
go. Under these circumstances, I decided to select the best animals
from among our _mulada_, and push on over the coast range of mountains
to San Diego with the mail, taking only one man with me; the coach
would come the longer road, by way of San Ysabel. I put this decision
in execution about 9 o’clock in the morning, and reached Vallecita at
2 p. m., where we procured something to eat, but could get none of the
Indians to guide us over the mountains, as I had confidently calculated
upon being able to do. There was no resource left us but to push on
alone; so, taking minute directions where to find the best trail, we
recommenced our journey, expecting to climb the mountains in time to
reach Lassator’s ranch, in one of the valleys, by or before sunset.
Our tired animals proved unequal to the required speed, so that after
climbing the steep mule path which led up the mountain for several
miles, we camped on our trail, in the middle of a splendid table land
covered with pine trees, situated near the top of the mountains.
The moon came up about 11 o’clock, giving enough light for us to
keep the trail; once we chased a star for a mile, thinking it was a
light in a hut; finally reaching the ranch without accident, or much
detention on the way, at 2 o’clock in the morning. Tried to procure
horses at once to proceed on to San Diego, but the animals were all
turned out in the valley grazing and could not be had before morning.
We reluctantly went to bed; and, once in the hay-stack, we slept
soundly till daylight.
Made 36 miles to-day.
_September 8._--At 9 o’clock a. m. we left Lassator’s ranch with fresh
animals, this time mounted on horses. After a toilsome day’s journey
down the mountains, we reached San Diego at 10 o’clock p. m., bringing
the first through mail which had reached here in schedule time. I had
come myself from San Antonio to San Diego in thirty-eight days.
_September 9._--This morning I despatched the mail from San Diego
in charge of two men, with directions to deliver it at Fort Yuma to
the party I had left there, who would in turn carry it to the Pimos
villages at Maricopa station, or at Tucson, where a coach would be
in readiness to carry it on to La Mesilla, at which last place a
second coach would carry it to the Presidio of San Eleazario. Each
of these parties going east, after delivering their mail, were under
instructions to wait and bring back a return mail over that portion of
the road allotted to them. [These were the arrangements I had made _en
route_, and up to this date they have insured the prompt delivery of
the mails at each end of our line.]
When Mr. Birch and myself parted in New York, on the 23d of June,
we made an arrangement to meet in San Diego as soon as I could get
there; I would then have travelled across the continent, and thus be
able to report understandingly about the route, with estimates of
expenditures made up to that time, obligations incurred, and promises
given. Together we could then estimate for the future, and Mr. Birch
was to give me, in San Diego, all the money I needed in retracing my
steps to San Antonio, at which latter place he would again meet me
on my return. With this understanding, I had promised all along the
line, to whomsoever should aid us, that I would return from California
with the coin to pay up all obligations. Mr. Giddings also made use
of this promise for me during my absence. Under my understanding of
this agreement, I was not only very much surprised but embarrassed, on
reaching San Diego, to hear of Mr. Birch’s departure from San Francisco
per mail steamer of August 20. Neither did I find here any advices
as to his movements; furthermore, the coast steamer had left for San
Francisco on the 6th, two days before my arrival, and would not be here
to leave again until the 21st. Thus I was compelled to entire inaction
towards placing the Pacific end of our line in good condition until I
could send to San Francisco for coaches, harness, provisions, general
equipment, and money. My time, from the 9th to the 21st, appeared to be
nearly or quite useless to the line, except in scouring the country for
mules, which proved to be not particularly plenty in that section of
California.
[Had not Mr. Birch been lost in the Central America September 11, no
trouble would have arisen from his not having met me according to
agreement. He could have explained everything satisfactorily, and
shown, in my opinion, that he had otherwise planned well for the
maintenance of our credit.]
_September 13._--To-day I despatched a party of our men with a wagon
and saddle mules, under instructions to examine very carefully the
mountain passes eastward of San Diego, that we might find, if possible,
a better and shorter route for a road than the present circuitous one
by way San Ysabel. The county surveyor very kindly accompanied our
party, giving us the benefit of his experience; so also did one of the
county supervisors, thus showing the great interest which the citizens
of San Diego felt in the success of an overland mail. [Our party
returned on the 18th, reporting having found a trail which, in their
opinion, could be made an excellent road with a moderate outlay of
labor.]
_September 21._--To-day I despatched a messenger to San Francisco by
the steamer, with instructions to make, as far as possible, all needful
purchases of supplies for the western end of the line, and to bring
them to San Diego by return steamer. I leave at the earliest possible
moment to retrace my steps over the road, as I had promised to be back
about October.
_September 24._--I contracted to-day for hay and straw to supply
stations we had made on the desert, at Vallecita and Carissa creeks.
_September 29._--To-day I despatched a train, consisting of a coach
and wagon, destined for our mail station at Maricopa wells; they were
loaded with rations for the men who remain there permanently.
_October 4._--Despatched a relay of ten mules over the mountains to
meet and accompany the train of September 29.
_October 6._--Steamer arrived from San Francisco this morning, having
on board for us all the supplies our agent had been able to obtain.
Commenced at once preparing for my return trip.
_October 17._--To-day I despatched two coaches, with complete outfits
of animals and other necessaries. One of the coaches is to run between
Carissa creek and Fort Yuma; the other is to run between Fort Yuma and
Maricopa wells. I despatched these coaches to-day in order to have
them at their stations in readiness to take through any passengers for
Arizona or San Antonio which might come from San Francisco by steamer
of the 18th. We had advertised in the California papers that we were
ready for passengers as follows:
_Office of the San Antonio and San Diego Mail Line._--This line is
now ready to ticket passengers through from San Francisco to New
Orleans, _via_ San Diego, Fort Yuma, Tucson, Mesilla, Fort Filmore,
El Paso, and San Antonio, as well as to all intermediate stations.
Also to Santa Fé and Albuquerque, (New Mexico.) For rates of passage,
and further information, apply at the office of the company, Kearny
street, (opposite Plaza.)
C. McLAUGHIN, _Agent_.
R. E. DOYLE,
_Superintendent Western Division_.
_October 22._--This morning I despatched two more coaches and fourteen
animals heavily laden with every description of supplies for the line.
They go round to Carissa creek by the road, while I shall take the
shorter mountain trail to-morrow.
_October 23._--Left San Diego on horseback this morning, accompanied by
Mr. Doyle and one of my through passengers, of whom I had several.
_October 25._--Passed the day in the mountains at our corral, branding
a mulada of seventy-five animals, which I had purchased for the line.
_October 27._--Reached Carissa creek, the place of rendezvous, early
this afternoon, with our _mulada_; found the coaches waiting. My party
now consisted of twelve men, with three coaches, seventy-two animals,
and everything necessary for our stage purposes. Our progress to Fort
Yuma was slow. We left Carissa creek the 28th October and reached the
fort November 2d; the delay arose from the fact that fifty-nine of our
animals strayed away, detaining us two days in finding them in the
desert.
_November 5._--To-day the mail came in from the east, bringing to
me the melancholy news of Mr. Birch’s death. This intelligence very
naturally alarmed the parties at Colorado city, who had been furnishing
our men with supplies. Feeling myself perfectly sure that Mr. Birch’s
death would have no influence in disarranging the affairs of the
line, I assured the parties of my determination to continue, as I had
planned, to San Antonio, and to see that the business was properly
cared for. Mr. Doyle, who had accompanied me thus far from San Diego,
joined with me in assuring our creditors here that we would both
continue in as vigorous a superintendence as ever of the interests of
the mail.