CHAPTER XVI.

THE CITY OF ROME IN THE MIDDLE AGES.

'It is related,' says Sozomen in the ninth book of his Ecclesiastical

History, 'that when Alaric was hastening against Rome, a holy monk of

Italy admonished him to spare the city, and not to make himself the

cause of such fearful ills. But Alaric answered, "It is not of my own

will that I do this; there is One who forces me on, and will not let

me rest, bidding me spoil Rome[323]."'

Towards the close of the tenth century the Bohemian Woitech, famous in

after legend as St. Adalbert, forsook his bishopric of Prague to

journey into Italy, and settled himself in the Roman monastery of

Sant' Alessio. After some few years passed there in religious

solitude, he was summoned back to resume the duties of his see, and

laboured for awhile among his half-savage countrymen. Soon, however,

the old longing came over him: he resought his cell upon the brow of

the Aventine, and there, wandering among the ancient shrines, and

taking on himself the menial offices of the convent, he abode happily

for a space. At length the reproaches of his metropolitan, the

archbishop of Mentz, and the express commands of Pope Gregory the

Fifth, drove him back over the Alps, and he set off in the train of

Otto the Third, lamenting, says his biographer, that he should no more

enjoy his beloved quiet in the mother of martyrs, the home of the

Apostles, golden Rome. A few months later he died a martyr among the

pagan Lithuanians of the Baltic[324].

Nearly four hundred years later, and nine hundred after the time of

Alaric, Francis Petrarch writes thus to his friend John Colonna:--

'Thinkest thou not that I long to see that city to which there has

never been any like nor ever shall be; which even an enemy called a

city of kings; of whose people it hath been written, "Great is the

valour of the Roman people, great and terrible their name;" concerning

whose unexampled glory and incomparable empire, which was, and is, and

is to be, divine prophets have sung; where are the tombs of the

apostles and martyrs and the bodies of so many thousands of the saints

of Christ[325]?'

It was the same irresistible impulse that drew the warrior, the monk,

and the scholar towards the mystical city which was to mediæval Europe

more than Delphi had been to the Greek or Mecca to the Islamite, the

Jerusalem of Christianity, the city which had once ruled the earth,

and now ruled the world of disembodied spirits[326]. For there was

then, as there is now, something in Rome to attract men of every

class. The devout pilgrim came to pray at the shrine of the Prince of

the Apostles, too happy if he could carry back to his monastery in the

forests of Saxony or by the bleak Atlantic shore the bone of some holy

martyr; the lover of learning and poetry dreamed of Virgil and Cicero

among the shattered columns of the Forum; the Germanic kings, in spite

of pestilence, treachery and seditions, came with their hosts to seek

in the ancient capital of the world the fountain of temporal dominion.

Nor has the spell yet wholly lost its power. To half the Christian

nations Rome is the metropolis of religion, to all the metropolis of

art. In her streets, and hers alone among the cities of the world, may

every form of human speech be heard: she is more glorious in her decay

and desolation than the stateliest seats of modern power.

But while men thought thus of Rome, what was Rome herself?

The modern traveller, after his first few days in Rome, when he has

looked out upon the Campagna from the summit of St. Peter's, paced the

chilly corridors of the Vatican, and mused under the echoing dome of

the Pantheon, when he has passed in review the monuments of regal and

republican and papal Rome, begins to seek for some relics of the

twelve hundred years that lie between Constantine and Pope Julius the

Second. 'Where,' he asks, 'is the Rome of the Middle Ages, the Rome of

Alberic and Hildebrand and Rienzi? the Rome which dug the graves of so

many Teutonic hosts; whither the pilgrims flocked; whence came the

commands at which kings bowed? Where are the memorials of the

brightest age of Christian architecture, the age which reared Cologne

and Rheims and Westminster, which gave to Italy the cathedrals of

Tuscany and the wave-washed palaces of Venice?'

To this question there is no answer. Rome, the mother of the arts, has

scarcely a building to commemorate those times, for to her they were

times of turmoil and misery, times in which the shame of the present

was embittered by recollections of a brighter past. Nevertheless a

minute scrutiny may still discover, hidden in dark corners or

disguised under an unbecoming modern dress, much that carries us back

to the mediæval town, and helps us to realize its social and political

condition. Therefore a brief notice of the state of Rome during the

Middle Ages, with especial reference to those monuments which the

visitor may still examine for himself, may not be without its use, and

is at any rate no unfitting pendant to an account of the institution

which drew from the city its name and its magnificent pretensions.

Moreover, as will appear more fully in the sequel, the history of the

Roman people is an instructive illustration of the influence of those

ideas upon which the Empire itself rested, as well in their weakness

as in their strength[327].

[Sidenote: Causes of the rapid decay of the city.]

It is not from her capture by Alaric, nor even from the more

destructive ravages of the Vandal Genseric, that the material and

social ruin of Rome must be dated, but rather from the repeated sieges

which she sustained in the war of Belisarius with the Ostrogoths. This

struggle however, long and exhausting as it was, would not have proved

so fatal had the previous condition of the city been sound and

healthy. Her wealth and population in the middle of the fifth century

were probably little inferior to what they had been in the most

prosperous days of the imperial government. But this wealth was

entirely gathered into the hands of a small and effeminate

aristocracy. The crowd that filled her streets was composed partly of

poor and idle freemen, unaccustomed to arms and debarred from

political rights; partly of a far more numerous herd of slaves,

gathered from all parts of the world, and morally even lower than

their masters. There was no middle class, and no system of municipal

institutions, for although the senate and consuls with many of the

lesser magistracies continued to exist, they had for centuries enjoyed

no effective power, and were nowise fitted to lead and rule the

people. Hence it was that when the Gothic war and the subsequent

inroads of the Lombards had reduced the great families to beggary, the

framework of society dissolved and could not be replaced. In a state

rotten to the core there was no vital force left for reconstruction.

The old forms of political activity had been too long dead to be

recalled to life: the people wanted the moral force to produce new

ones, and all the authority that could be said to exist in the midst

of anarchy tended to centre itself in the chief of the new religious

society.

[Sidenote: Peculiarities in the position of Rome.]

So far Rome's condition was like that of the other great towns of

Italy and Gaul. But in two points her case differed from theirs, and

to these the difference of her after fortunes may be traced. Her

bishop had no temporal potentate to overshadow his dignity or check

his ambition, for the vicar of the Eastern court lived far away at

Ravenna, and seldom interfered except to ratify a papal election or

punish a more than commonly outrageous sedition. Her population

received an all but imperceptible infusion of that Teutonic blood and

those Teutonic customs by whose stern discipline the inhabitants of

northern Italy were in the end renovated. Everywhere the old

institutions had perished of decay: in Rome alone there was nothing

except the ecclesiastical system out of which new ones could arise.

Her condition was therefore the most pitiable in which a community can

find itself, one of struggle without purpose or progress. The citizens

were divided into three orders: the military class, including what was

left of the ancient aristocracy; the clergy, a host of priests, monks

and nuns, attached to the countless churches and convents; and the

people or _plebs_, as they are called, a poverty-stricken rabble

without trade, without industry, without any municipal organization to

bind them together. Of these two latter classes the Pope was the

natural leader, the first was divided into factions headed by some

three or four of the great families, whose quarrels kept the town in

incessant bloodshed. The internal history of Rome from the sixth to

the twelfth century is an obscure and tedious record of the contest of

these factions with each other, and of the aristocracy as a whole with

the slowly growing power of the Church.

[Sidenote: Her condition in the ninth and tenth centuries.]

The revolt of the Romans from the Iconoclastic Emperors of the East,

followed as it was by the reception of the Franks as patricians and

emperors, is an event of the highest importance in the history of

Italy and of the popedom. In the domestic constitution of Rome it made

little change. With the instinct of a profound genius, Charles the

Great saw that Rome, though it might be ostensibly the capital, could

not be the real centre of his dominions. He continued to reside in

Germany, and did not even build a palace at Rome. For a time the awe

of his power, the presence of his _missus_ or lieutenant, and the

occasional visits of his successors Lothar and Lewis II to the city,

repressed her internal disorders. But after the death of the prince

last named, and still more after the dissolution of the Carolingian

Empire itself, Rome relapsed into a state of profligacy and barbarism

to which, even in that age, Europe supplied no parallel, a barbarism

which had inherited all the vices of civilization without any of its

virtues. The papal office in particular seems to have lost its

religious character, as it had certainly lost all claim to moral

purity. For more than a century the chief priest of Christendom was no

more than a tool of some ferocious faction among the nobles. Criminal

means had raised him to the throne; violence, sometimes going the

length of mutilation or murder, deprived him of it. The marvel is, a

marvel in which papal historians have not unnaturally discovered a

miracle, that after sinking so low, the Papacy should ever have risen

again. Its rescue and exaltation to the pinnacle of glory was

accomplished not by the Romans but by the efforts of the Transalpine

Church, aiding and prompting the Saxon and Franconian Emperors. Yet

even the religious reform did not abate intestine turmoil, and it was

not till the twelfth century that a new spirit began to work in

politics, which ennobled if it could not heal the sufferings of the

Roman people.

[Sidenote: Growth of a republican feeling: hostility to the Popes.]

[Sidenote: Arnold of Brescia.]

[Sidenote: Short-sighted policy of the Emperors.]

Ever since the time of Alberic their pride had revolted against the

haughty behaviour of the Teutonic emperors. From still earlier times

they had been jealous of sacerdotal authority, and now watched with

alarm the rapid extension of its influence. The events of the twelfth

century gave these feelings a definite direction. It was the time of

the struggle of the Investitures, in which Hildebrand and his

disciples had been striving to draw all the things of this world as

well as of the next into their grasp. It was the era of the revived

study of Roman law, by which alone the extravagant pretensions of the

decretalists could be resisted. The Lombard and Tuscan towns had

become flourishing municipalities, independent of their bishops, and

at open war with their Emperor. While all these things were stirring

the minds of the Romans, Arnold of Brescia came preaching reform,

denouncing the corrupt life of the clergy, not perhaps, like some

others of the so-called schismatics of his time, denying the need of a

sacerdotal order, but at any rate urging its restriction to purely

spiritual duties. On the minds of the Romans such teaching fell like

the spark upon dry grass; they threw off the yoke of the Pope[328],

drove out the imperial prefect, reconstituted the senate and the

equestrian order, appointed consuls, struck their own coins, and

professed to treat the German Emperors as their nominees and

dependants. To have successfully imitated the republican constitution

of the cities of northern Italy would have been much, but with this

they were not content. Knowing in a vague ignorant way that there had

been a Roman republic before there was a Roman empire, they fed their

vanity with visions of a renewal of all their ancient forms, and saw

in fancy their senate and people sitting again upon the Seven Hills

and ruling over the kings of the earth. Stepping, as it were, into the

arena where Pope and Emperor were contending for the headship of the

world, they rejected the one as a priest, and declaring the other to

be only their creature, they claimed as theirs the true and lawful

inheritance of the world-dominion which their ancestors had won.

Antiquity was in one sense on their side, and to us now it seems less

strange that the Roman people should aspire to rule the earth than

that a German barbarian should rule it in their name. But practically

the scheme was absurd, and could not maintain itself against any

serious opposition. As a modern historian aptly expresses it, 'they

were setting up ruins:' they might as well have raised the broken

columns that strewed their Forum and hoped to rear out of them a

strong and stately temple. The reverence which the men of the Middle

Ages felt for Rome was given altogether to the name and to the place,

nowise to the people. As for power, they had none: so far from holding

Italy in subjection, they could scarcely maintain themselves against

the hostility of Tusculum. But it would have been well worth the while

of the Teutonic Emperors to have made the Romans their allies, and

bridled by their help the temporal ambition of the Popes. The offer

was actually made to them, first to Conrad the Third, who seems to

have taken no notice of it; and afterwards, as has been already

stated, to Frederick the First, who repelled in the most contumelious

fashion the envoys of the senate. Hating and fearing the Pope, he

always respected him: towards the Romans he felt all the contempt of a

feudal king for burghers, and of a German warrior for Italians. At the

demand of Pope Hadrian, whose foresight thought no heresy so dangerous

as one which threatened the authority of the clergy, Arnold of Brescia

was seized by the imperial prefect, put to death, and his ashes cast

into the Tiber, lest the people should treasure them up as relics. But

the martyrdom of their leader did not quench the hopes of his

followers. The republican constitution continued to exist, and rose

from time to time, during the weakness or the absence of the Popes,

into a brief and fitful activity[329]. Once awakened, the idea,

seductive at once to the imagination of the scholar and the vanity of

the Roman citizen, could not wholly disappear, and two centuries after

Arnold's time it found a more brilliant if less disinterested exponent

in the tribune Nicholas Rienzi.

[Sidenote: Character and career of the tribune Rienzi.]

The career of this singular personage is misunderstood by those who

suppose him to have been possessed of profound political insight, a

republican on modern principles. He was indeed, despite his

overweening conceit, and what seems to us his charlatanry, both a

patriot and a man of genius, in temperament a poet, filled with

soaring ideas. But those ideas, although dressed out in gaudier

colours by his lively fancy, were after all only the old ones,

memories of the long-faded glories of the heathen republic, and a

series of scornful contrasts levelled at her present oppressors, both

of them shewing no vista of future peace except through the revival of

those ancient names to which there were no things to correspond. It

was by declaiming on old texts and displaying old monuments that the

tribune enlisted the support of the Roman populace, not by any appeal

to democratic principles; and the whole of his acts and plans, though

they astonished men by their boldness, do not seem to have been

regarded as novel or impracticable[330]. In the breasts of men like

Petrarch, who loved Rome even more than they hated her people, the

enthusiasm of Rienzi found a sympathetic echo: others scorned and

denounced him as an upstart, a demagogue, and a rebel. Both friends

and enemies seem to have comprehended and regarded as natural his

feelings and designs, which were altogether those of his age. Being,

however, a mere matter of imagination, not of reason, having no

anchor, so to speak, in realities, no true relation to the world as it

then stood, these schemes of republican revival were as transient and

unstable as they were quick of growth and gay of colour. As the

authority of the Popes became consolidated, and free municipalities

disappeared elsewhere throughout Italy, the dream of a renovated Rome

at length withered up and fell and died. Its last struggle was made in

the conspiracy of Stephen Porcaro, in the time of Pope Nicholas the

Fifth; and from that time onward there was no question of the

supremacy of the bishop within his holy city.

[Sidenote: Causes of the failure of the struggle for independence.]

It is never without a certain regret that we watch the disappearance

of a belief, however illusive, around which the love and reverence for

mankind once clung. But this illusion need be the less regretted that

it had only the feeblest influence for good on the state of mediæval

Rome. During the three centuries that lie between Arnold of Brescia

and Porcaro, the disorders of Rome were hardly less violent than they

had been in the Dark Ages, and to all appearance worse than those of

any other European city. There was a want not only of fixed authority,

but of those elements of social stability which the other cities of

Italy possessed. In the greater republics of Lombardy and Tuscany the

bulk of the population were artizans, hard working orderly people;

while above them stood a prosperous middle class, engaged mostly in

commerce, and having in their system of trade-guilds an organization

both firm and flexible. It was by foreign trade that Genoa, Venice,

and Pisa became great, as it was the wealth acquired by manufacturing

industry that enabled Milan and Florence to overcome and incorporate

the territorial aristocracies which surrounded them.

[Sidenote: Internal condition of the city.]

[Sidenote: The people.]

[Sidenote: The nobility.]

[Sidenote: The bishop.]

Rome possessed neither source of riches. She was ill-placed for trade;

having no market she produced no goods to be disposed of, and the

unhealthiness which long neglect had brought upon her Campagna made

its fertility unavailable. Already she stood as she stands now, lonely

and isolated, a desert at her very gates. As there was no industry, so

there was nothing that deserved to be called a citizen class. The

people were a mere rabble, prompt to follow the demagogue who

flattered their vanity, prompter still to desert him in the hour of

danger. Superstition was with them a matter of national pride, but

they lived too near sacred things to feel much reverence for them:

they ill-treated the Pope and fleeced the pilgrims who crowded to

their shrines: they were probably the only community in Europe who

sent no recruit to the armies of the Cross. Priests, monks, and all

the nondescript hangers on of an ecclesiastical court formed a large

part of the population; while of the rest many were supported in a

state of half mendicancy by the countless religious foundations,

themselves enriched by the gifts or the plunder of Latin Christendom.

The noble families were numerous, powerful, ferocious; they were

surrounded by bands of unruly retainers, and waged a constant war

against each other from their castles in the adjoining country or in

the streets of the city itself. Had things been left to take their

natural course, one of these families, the Colonna, for instance, or

the Orsini, would probably have ended by overcoming its rivals, and

have established, as was the case in the republics of Romagna and

Tuscany, a 'signoria' or local tyranny, like those which had once

prevailed in the cities of Greece. But the presence of the sacerdotal

power, as it had hindered the growth of feudalism, so also it stood in

the way of such a development as this, and in so far aggravated the

confusion of the city. Although the Pope was not as yet recognized as

legitimate sovereign, he was not only the most considerable person in

Rome, but the only one whose authority had anything of an official

character. But the reign of each pontiff was short; he had no military

force, he was frequently absent from his see. He was, moreover, very

often a member of one of the great families, and, as such, no better

than a faction leader at home, while venerated by the rest of Europe

as the universal priest.

[Sidenote: The Emperor.]

[Sidenote: Visits of the Emperors to Rome.]

It remains only to speak of the person who should have been to Rome

what the national king was to the cities of France, or England, or

Germany, that is to say, of the Emperor. As has been said already, his

power was a mere chimera, chiefly important as furnishing a pretext to

the Colonna and other Ghibeline chieftains for their opposition to the

papal party. Even his abstract rights were matter of controversy. The

Popes, whose predecessors had been content to govern as the

lieutenants of Charles and Otto, now maintained that Rome as a

spiritual city could not be subject to any temporal jurisdiction, and

that she was therefore no part of the Roman Empire, though at the same

time its capital. Not only, it was urged, had Constantine yielded up

Rome to Sylvester and his successors, Lothar the Saxon had at his

coronation formally renounced his sovereignty by doing homage to the

pontiff and receiving the crown as his vassal. The Popes felt then as

they feel now, that their dignity and influence would suffer if they

should even appear to admit in their place of residence the

jurisdiction of a civil potentate, and although they could not secure

their own authority, they were at least able to exclude any other.

Hence it was that they were so uneasy whenever an Emperor came to them

to be crowned, that they raised up difficulties in his path, and

endeavoured to be rid of him as soon as possible. And here something

must be said of the programme, as one may call it, of these imperial

visits to Rome, and of the marks of their presence which the Germans

left behind them, remembering always that after the time of Frederick

the Second it was rather the exception than the rule for an Emperor to

be crowned in his capital at all.

[Sidenote: Their approach.]

The traveller who enters Rome now, if he comes, as he most commonly

does, by way of Civita Vecchia, slips in by the railway before he is

aware, is huddled into a vehicle at the terminus, and set down at his

hotel in the middle of the modern town before he has seen anything at

all. If he comes overland from Tuscany along the bleak road that

passes near Veii and crosses the Milvian bridge, he has indeed from

the slopes of the Ciminian range a splendid prospect of the sea-like

Campagna, girdled in by glittering hills, but of the city he sees no

sign, save the pinnacle of St. Peter's, until he is within the walls.

Far otherwise was it in the Middle Ages. Then travellers of every

grade, from the humble pilgrim to the new-made archbishop who came in

the pomp of a lengthy train to receive from the Pope the pallium of

his office, approached from the north or north-east side; following a

track along the hilly ground on the Tuscan side of the Tiber until

they halted on the brow of Monte Mario[331]--the Mount of Joy--and saw

the city of their solemnities lie spread before them, from the great

pile of the Lateran far away upon the Cœlian hill, to the basilica of

St. Peter's at their feet. They saw it not, as now, a sea of billowy

cupolas, but a mass of low red-roofed houses, varied by tall brick

towers, and at rarer intervals by masses of ancient ruin, then larger

far than now; while over all rose those two monuments of the best of

the heathen Emperors, monuments that still look down, serenely

changeless, on the armies of new nations and the festivals of a new

religion--the columns of Marcus Aurelius and Trajan.

[Sidenote: Their entrance.]

[Sidenote: Hostility of Pope and people to the Germans.]

From Monte Mario the Teutonic host descended, when they had paid their

orisons, into the Neronian field, the piece of flat land that lies

outside the gate of St. Angelo. Here it was the custom for the elders

of the Romans to meet the elected Emperor, present their charters for

confirmation, and receive his oath to preserve their good

customs[332]. Then a procession was formed: the priests and monks, who

had come out with hymns to greet the Emperor, led the way; the knights

and soldiers of Rome, such as they were, came next; then the monarch,

followed by a long array of Transalpine chivalry. Passing into the

city they advanced to St. Peter's, where the Pope, surrounded by his

clergy, stood on the great staircase of the basilica to welcome and

bless the Roman king. On the next day came the coronation, with

ceremonies too elaborate for description[333], ceremonies which, we

may well believe, were seldom duly completed. Far more usual were

other rites, of which the book of ritual makes no mention, unless they

are to be counted among the 'good customs of the Romans;' the clang of

war bells, the battle cry of German and Italian combatants. The Pope,

when he could not keep the Emperor from entering Rome, required him to

leave the bulk of his host without the walls, and if foiled in this,

sought his safety in raising up plots and seditions against his too

powerful friend. The Roman people, on the other hand, violent as they

often were against the Pope, felt nevertheless a sort of national

pride in him. Very different were their feelings towards the Teutonic

chieftain, who came from a far land to receive in their city, yet

without thanking them for it, the ensign of a power which the prowess

of their forefathers had won. Despoiled of their ancient right to

choose the universal bishop, they clung all the more desperately to

the belief that it was they who chose the universal prince; and were

mortified afresh when each successive sovereign contemptuously scouted

their claims, and paraded before their eyes his rude barbarian

cavalry. Thus it was that a Roman sedition was the all but invariable

accompaniment of a Roman coronation. The three revolts against Otto

the Great have been already described. His grandson Otto the Third, in

spite of his passionate fondness for the city, was met by the same

faithlessness and hatred, and departed at last in despair at the

failure of his attempts at conciliation[334]. A century afterwards

Henry the Fifth's coronation produced violent tumults, which ended in

his seizing the Pope and cardinals in St. Peter's, and keeping them

prisoners till they submitted to his terms. Remembering this, Pope

Hadrian the Fourth would fain have forced the troops of Frederick

Barbarossa to remain without the walls, but the rapidity of their

movements disconcerted his plans and anticipated the resistance of the

Roman populace. Having established himself in the Leonine city[335],

Frederick barricaded the bridge over the Tiber, and was duly crowned

in St. Peter's. But the rite was scarcely finished when the Romans,

who had assembled in arms on the Capitol, dashed over the bridge, fell

upon the Germans, and were with difficulty repulsed by the personal

efforts of Frederick. Into the city he did not venture to pursue them,

nor was he at any period of his reign able to make himself master of

the whole of it. Finding themselves similarly baffled, his successors

at last accepted their position, and were content to take the crown on

the Pope's conditions and depart without further question.

[Sidenote: Memorials of the Germanic Emperors in Rome.]

[Sidenote: Of Otto the Third.]

Coming so seldom and remaining for so short a time, it is not

wonderful that the Teutonic Emperors should, in the seven centuries

from Charles the Great to Charles the Fifth, have left fewer marks of

their presence in Rome than Titus or Hadrian alone have done; fewer

and less considerable even than those which tradition attributes to

those whom it calls Servius Tullius and the elder Tarquin. Those

monuments which do exist are just sufficient to make the absence of

all others more conspicuous. The most important dates from the time of

Otto the Third, the only Emperor who attempted to make Rome his

permanent residence. Of the palace, probably nothing more than a

tower, which he built on the Aventine, no trace has been discovered;

but the church, founded by him to receive the ashes of his friend the

martyred St. Adalbert, may still be seen upon the island in the Tiber.

Having received from Benevento relics supposed to be those of

Bartholomew the Apostle[336], it became dedicated to that saint, and

is now the church of San Bartolommeo in Isola, whose quaintly

picturesque bell-tower of red brick, now grey with extreme age, looks

out from among the orange trees of a convent garden over the

swift-eddying yellow waters of the Tiber.

[Sidenote: Of Otto the Second.]

[Sidenote: Of Frederick the Second.]

Otto the Second, son of Otto the Great, died at Rome, and lies buried

in the crypt of St. Peter's, the only Emperor who has found a

resting-place among the graves of the Popes[337]. His tomb is not far

from that of his nephew Pope Gregory the Fifth: it is a plain one of

roughly chiselled marble. The lid of the superb porphyry sarcophagus

in which he lay for a time now serves as the great font of St.

Peter's, and may be seen in the baptismal chapel, on the left of the

entrance of the church, not far from the tombs of the Stuarts. Last of

all must be mentioned a curious relic of the Emperor Frederick the

Second, the prince whom of all others one would least expect to see

honoured in the city of his foes. It is an inscription in the palace

of the Conservators upon the Capitoline hill, built into the wall of

the great staircase, and relates the victory of Frederick's army over

the Milanese, and the capture of the carroccio[338] of the rebel city,

which he sends as a trophy to his faithful Romans. These are all or

nearly all the traces of her Teutonic lords that Rome has preserved

till now. Pictures indeed there are in abundance, from the mosaic of

the Scala Santa at the Lateran[339] and the curious frescoes in the

church of Santi Quattro Incoronati[340], down to the paintings of the

Sistine antechapel and the Stanze of Raphael in the Vatican, where the

triumphs of the Popedom over all its foes are set forth with matchless

art and equally matchless unveracity. But these are mostly long

subsequent to the events they describe, and these all the world knows.

Associations of the highest interest would have attached to the

churches in which the imperial coronation was performed--a ceremony

which, whether we regard the dignity of the performers or the

splendour of the adjuncts, was probably the most imposing that modern

Europe has known. But old St. Peter's disappeared in the end of the

fifteenth century, not long after the last Roman coronation, that of

Frederick the Third, while the basilica of St. John Lateran, in which

Lothar the Saxon and Henry the Seventh were crowned, has been so

wofully modernized that we can hardly figure it to ourselves as the

same building[341].

[Sidenote: Causes of the want of mediæval monuments in Rome.]

[Sidenote: Barbarism of the aristocracy.]

Bearing in mind what was the social condition of Rome during the

middle ages, it becomes easier to understand the architectural

barrenness which at first excites the visitor's surprise. Rome had no

temporal sovereign, and there were therefore only two classes who

could build at all, the nobles and the clergy. Of these, the former

had seldom the wealth, and never the taste, which would have enabled

them to construct palaces graceful as the Venetian or massively grand

as the Florentine and Genoese. Moreover, the constant practice of

domestic war made defence the first object of a house, beauty and

convenience the second. The nobility, therefore, either adapted

ancient edifices to their purpose or built out of their materials

those huge square towers of brick, a few of which still frown over the

narrow streets in the older parts of Rome. We may judge of their

number from the statement that the senator Brancaleone destroyed one

hundred and forty of them. With perhaps no more than one exception,

that of the so-called House of Rienzi, these towers are the only

domestic buildings in the city older than the middle of the fifteenth

century. The vast palaces to which strangers now flock for the sake of

the picture galleries they contain, have been most of them erected in

the sixteenth or seventeenth centuries, some even later. Among the

earliest is that Palazzo Cenci[342], whose gloomy low-browed arch so

powerfully affected the imagination of Shelley.

[Sidenote: Ambition, weakness, and corruption of the clergy.]

It was no want of wealth that hampered the architectural efforts of

the clergy, for vast revenues flowed in upon them from every corner of

Christendom. A good deal was actually spent upon the erection or

repairs of churches and convents, although with a less liberal hand

than that of such great Transalpine prelates as Hugh of Lincoln or

Conrad of Cologne. But the Popes always needed money for their

projects of ambition, and in times when disorder or corruption were at

their height the work of building stopped altogether. Thus it was that

after the time of the Carolingians scarcely a church was erected until

the beginning of the twelfth century, when the reforms of Hildebrand

had breathed new zeal into the priesthood. The Babylonish captivity of

Avignon, as it was called, with the great schism of the West that

followed upon it, was the cause of a second similar intermission,

which lasted nearly a century and a half.

[Sidenote: Tendency of the Roman builders to adhere to the ancient

manner.]

[Sidenote: Absence of Gothic in Rome.]

At every time, however, even when his work went on most briskly, the

labours of the Roman architect took the direction of restoring and

readorning old churches rather than of erecting new ones. While the

Transalpine countries, except in a few favoured spots, such as

Provence and part of the Rhineland, remained during several ages with

few and rudely built stone churches, Rome possessed, as the

inheritance of the earlier Christian centuries, a profusion of houses

of worship, some of them still unsurpassed in splendour, and far more

than adequate to the needs of her diminished population. In repairing

these from time to time, their original form and style of work were

usually as far as possible preserved, while in constructing new ones,

the abundance of models beautiful in themselves and hallowed as well

by antiquity as by religious feeling, enthralled the invention of the

workman, bound him down to be at best a faithful imitator, and forbade

him to deviate at pleasure from the old established manner. Thus it

befel that while his brethren throughout the rest of Europe were

passing by successive steps from the old Roman and Byzantine styles to

Romanesque, and from Romanesque to Gothic, the Roman architect

scarcely departed from the plan and arrangements of the primitive

basilica. This is one chief reason why there is so little of Gothic

work in Rome, so little even of Romanesque like that of Pisa. What

there is appears chiefly in the pointed window, more rarely in the

arch, seldom or never in spire or tower or column. Only one of the

existing churches of Rome is Gothic throughout, and that, the

Dominican church of S. Maria sopra Minerva, was built by foreign

monks. In some of the other churches, and especially in the cloisters

of the convents, instances may be observed of the same style: in

others slight traces, by accident or design almost obliterated[343].

[Sidenote: Destruction and alteration of the old buildings:]

[Sidenote: By invaders.]

[Sidenote: By the Romans of the Middle Ages.]

[Sidenote: By modern restorers of churches.]

The mention of obliteration suggests a third cause of the comparative

want of mediæval buildings in the city--the constant depredations and

changes of which she has been the subject. Ever since the time of

Constantine Rome has been a city of destruction, and Christians have

vied with pagans, citizens with enemies, in urging on the fatal work.

Her siege and capture by Robert Guiscard[344], the ally of Hildebrand

against Henry the Fourth, was far more ruinous than the attacks of the

Goths or Vandals: and itself yields in atrocity to the sack of Rome in

A.D. 1526 by the soldiers of the Catholic king and most pious Emperor

Charles the Fifth[345]. Since the days of the first barbarian

invasions the Romans have gone on building with materials taken from

the ancient temples, theatres, law-courts, baths and villas, stripping

them of their gorgeous casings of marble, pulling down their walls for

the sake of the blocks of travertine, setting up their own hovels on

the top or in the midst of these majestic piles. Thus it has been with

the memorials of paganism: a somewhat different cause has contributed

to the disappearance of the mediæval churches. What pillage, or

fanaticism, or the wanton lust of destruction did in the one case, the

ostentatious zeal of modern times has done in the other. The era of

the final establishment of the Popes as temporal sovereigns of the

city, is also that of the supremacy of the Renaissance style in

architecture. After the time of Nicholas the Fifth, the pontiff

against whom, it will be remembered, the spirit of municipal freedom

made its last struggle in the conspiracy of Porcaro, nothing was built

in Gothic, and the prevailing enthusiasm for the antique produced a

corresponding dislike to everything mediæval, a dislike conspicuous in

men like Julius the Second and Leo the Tenth, from whom the grandeur

of modern Rome may be said to begin. Not long after their time the

great religious movement of the sixteenth century, while triumphing in

the north of Europe, was in the south met and overcome by a

counter-reformation in the bosom of the old church herself, and the

construction or restoration of ecclesiastical buildings became again

the passion of the devout[346]. No employment, whether it be called an

amusement or a duty, could have been better suited to the court and

aristocracy of Rome. They were indolent; wealthy, and fond of

displaying their wealth; full of good taste, and anxious, especially

when advancing years had chased away youth's pleasures, to be full of

good works also. Popes and cardinals and the heads of the great

families vied with one another in building new churches and restoring

or enlarging those they found till little of the old was left; raising

over them huge cupolas, substituting massive pilasters for the

single-shafted columns, adorning the interior with a profusion of rare

marbles, of carving and gilding, of frescoes and altar-pieces by the

best masters of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. None but a

bigoted mediævalist can refuse to acknowledge the warmth of tone, the

repose, the stateliness, of the churches of modern Rome; but even in

the midst of admiration the sated eye turns away from the wealth of

ponderous ornament, and we long for the clear pure colour, the simple

yet grand proportions that give a charm to the buildings of an earlier

age.

[Sidenote: Existing relics of the Dark and Middle Ages.]

[Sidenote: The Mosaics.]

[Sidenote: The Bell-towers.]

Few of the ancient churches have escaped untouched; many have been

altogether rebuilt. There are also some, however, in which the

modernizers of the sixteenth and subsequent centuries have spared two

features of the old structure, its round apse or tribune and its

bell-tower. The apse has its interior usually covered with mosaics,

exceedingly interesting, both from the ideas they express and as the

only monuments of pictorial art that remain to us from the Dark Ages.

To speak of them, however, as they deserve to be spoken of, would

involve a digression for which there is no space here. The campanile

or bell-tower is a quaint little square brick tower, of no great

height, usually standing detached from the church, and having in its

topmost, sometimes also in its other upper stories, several arcade

windows, divided by tiny marble pillars[347]. What with these

campaniles, then far more numerous than they are now, and with the

huge brick fortresses of the nobles, towers must have held in the

landscape of the mediæval city very much the part which domes do now.

Although less imposing, they were probably more picturesque, the

rather as in the earlier part of the Middle Ages the houses and

churches, which are now mostly crowded together on the flat of the

Campus Martius, were scattered over the heights and slopes of the

Cœlian, Aventine, and Esquiline hills[348]. Modern Rome lies chiefly

on the opposite or north-eastern side of the Capitol, and the change

from the old to the new site of the city, which can hardly be said to

have distinctly begun before the destruction of the south-western part

of the town by Robert Guiscard, was not completed until the sixteenth

century. In A.D. 1536 the Capitol was rebuilt by Michael Angelo, in

anticipation of the entry of Charles the Fifth, upon foundations that

had been laid by the first Tarquin; and the palace of the Senator, the

greatest municipal edifice of Rome, which had hitherto looked towards

the Forum and the Coliseum, was made to front in the direction of St.

Peter's and the modern town.

[Sidenote: Changed aspect of the city of Rome.]

[Sidenote: Analogy between her architecture and her civil and

ecclesiastical constitution.]

[Sidenote: Preservation of an antique character in both.]

The Rome of to-day is no more like the city of Rienzi than she is to

the city of Trajan; just as the Roman church of the nineteenth century

differs profoundly, however she may strive to disguise it, from the

church of Hildebrand. But among all their changes, both church and

city have kept themselves wonderfully free from the intrusion of

foreign, at least of Teutonic, elements, and have faithfully preserved

at all times something of an old Roman character. Latin Christianity

inherited from the imperial system of old that firmly knit yet

flexible organization, which was one of the grand secrets of its

power: the great men whom mediæval Rome gave to or trained up for the

Papacy were, like their progenitors, administrators, legislators,

statesmen; seldom enthusiasts themselves, but perfectly understanding

how to use and guide the enthusiasm of others--of the French and

German crusaders, of men like Francis of Assisi and Dominic and

Ignatius. Between Catholicism in Italy and Catholicism in Germany or

England there was always, as there is still, a very perceptible

difference. So also, if the analogy be not too fanciful, was it with

Rome the city. Socially she seemed always drifting towards feudalism;

yet she never fell into its grasp. Materially, her architecture was at

one time considerably influenced by Gothic forms, yet Gothic never

became, as in the rest of Europe, the dominant style. It approached

Rome late, and departed from her early, so that we scarcely notice its

presence, and seem to pass almost without a break from the old

Romanesque[349] to the Græco-Roman of the Renaissance. Thus regarded,

the history of the city, both in her political state and in her

buildings, is seen to be intimately connected with that of the Holy

Empire itself. The Empire in its title and its pretensions expressed

the idea of the permanence of the institutions of the ancient world;

Rome the city had, in externals at least, carefully preserved their

traditions: the names of her magistracies, the character of her

buildings, all spoke of antiquity, and gave it a strange and shadowy

life in the midst of new races and new forms of faith.

[Sidenote: Relation of the City and the Empire.]

In its essence the Empire rested on the feeling of the unity of

mankind; it was the perpetuation of the Roman dominion by which the

old nationalities had been destroyed, with the addition of the

Christian element which had created a new nationality that was also

universal. By the extension of her citizenship to all her subjects

heathen Rome had become the common home, and, figuratively, even the

local dwelling-place of the civilized races of man. By the theology of

the time Christian Rome had been made the mystical type of humanity,

the one flock of the faithful scattered over the whole earth, the holy

city whither, as to the temple on Moriah, all the Israel of God should

come up to worship. She was not merely an image of the mighty world,

she was the mighty world itself in miniature. The pastor of her local

church is also the universal bishop; the seven suffragans who

consecrate him are the overseers of petty sees in Ostia, Antium, and

the like, towns lying close round Rome: the cardinal priests and

deacons who join these seven in electing him derive their title to be

princes of the Church, the supreme spiritual council of the Christian

world, from the incumbency of a parochial cure within the precincts of

the city. Similarly, her ruler, the Emperor, is ruler of mankind; he

is chosen by the acclamations of her people[350]: he can be lawfully

crowned nowhere but in one of her basilicas. She is, like Jerusalem of

old, the mother of us all.

[Sidenote: Extinction of the Florentine republic, A.D. 1530.]

There is yet another way in which the record of the domestic contests

of Rome throws light upon the history of the Empire. From the eleventh

century to the fifteenth her citizens ceased not to demand in the name

of the old republic their freedom from the tyranny of the nobles and

the Pope, and their right to rule over the world at large. These

efforts--selfish and fantastic we may call them, yet men like Petrarch

did not disdain to them their sympathy--issued from the same theories

and were directed to the same ends as those which inspired Otto the

Third and Frederick Barbarossa and Dante himself. They witness to the

same incapacity to form any ideal for the future except a revival of

the past; the same belief that one universal state is both desirable

and possible, but possible only through the means of Rome: the same

refusal to admit that a right which has once existed can ever be

extinguished. In the days of the Renaissance these notions were

passing silently away: the succeeding century brought with it

misfortunes that broke the spirit of the nation. Italy was the

battle-field of Europe: her wealth became the prey of a rapacious

soldiery: the last and greatest of her republics was enslaved by an

unfeeling Emperor, and handed over as the pledge of amity to a selfish

Medicean Pope. When the hope of independence had been lost, the people

turned away from politics to live for art and literature, and found,

before many generations had passed, how little such exclusive devotion

could compensate for the departure of freedom, and a national spirit,

and the activity of civic life. A century after the golden days of

Ariosto and Raphael, Italian literature had become frigid and

affected, while Italian art was dying of mannerism.

[Sidenote: Feelings of the modern Italians towards Rome.]

At length, after long ages of sloth, the stagnant waters were

troubled. The Romans, who had lived in listless contentment under the

paternal sway of the Popes, received new ideas from the advent of the

revolutionary armies of France, and have found the Papal system, since

its re-establishment fifty years ago as a modern bureaucratic

despotism, far less tolerable than it was of yore. Our own days have

seen the name of Rome become again a rallying-cry for the patriots of

Italy, but in a sense most unlike the old one. The contemporaries of

Arnold and Rienzi desired freedom only as a step to universal

domination: their descendants, more wisely, yet not more from

patriotism than from a pardonable civic pride, seek only to be the

capital of the Italian kingdom. Dante prayed for a monarchy of the

world, a reign of peace and Christian brotherhood: those who invoke

his name as the earliest prophet of their creed strive after an idea

that never crossed his mind--the national union of Italy[351].

Plain common-sense politicians in other countries do not understand

this passion for Rome as a capital, and think it their duty to lecture

the Italians on their flightiness. The latter do not themselves

pretend that the shores of the Tiber are a suitable site for a

capital: Rome is lonely, unhealthy, and in a bad strategical position;

she has no particular facilities for trade: her people, with some fine

qualities, are less orderly and industrious than the Tuscans or the

Piedmontese. Nevertheless all Italy cries with one voice for Rome,

firmly believing that national life can never thrill with a strong and

steady pulsation till the ancient capital has become the nation's

heart. They feel that it is owing to Rome--Rome pagan as well as

Christian--that they once played so grand a part in the drama of

European history, and that they have now been able to attain that

fervid sentiment of unity which has brought them at last together

under one government. Whether they are right, whether if right they

are likely to be successful, need not be inquired here. But it

deserves to be noted that this enthusiasm for a famous name--for it is

nothing more--is substantially the same feeling as that which created

and hallowed the Holy Empire of the Middle Ages. The events of the

last few years on both sides of the Atlantic have proved that men are

not now, any more than they ever were, chiefly governed by

calculations of material profit and loss. Sentiments, fancies,

theories, have not lost their power; the spirit of poetry has not

wholly passed away from politics. And strange as seems to us the

worship paid to the name of mediæval Rome by those who saw the sins

and the misery of her people, it can hardly have been an intenser

feeling than is the imaginative reverence wherewith the Italians of

to-day look on the city whence, as from a fountain, all the streams of

their national life have sprung, and in which, as in an ocean, they

are all again to mingle.

FOOTNOTES:

[323] Hist. Eccl. l. ix. c. 6: τὸν δὲ φάναι, ὡς οὐχ ἑκὼν τάδε

ἐπιχειρεῖ, ἀλλά τις συνεχῶς ἐνοχλῶν αὐτὸν βιάζεται, καὶ ἐπιτάττει τὴν

Ῥώμην πορθεῖν.

[324] See the two Lives of St. Adalbert in Pertz, _M. G. H._, iv.,

evidently compiled soon after his death.

[325] Another letter of Petrarch's to John Colonna, written

immediately after his arrival in the city, deserves to be quoted, it

is so like what a stranger would now write off after his first day in

Rome:--'In præsens nihil est quod inchoare ausim, miraculo rerum

tantarum et stuporis mole obrutus ... præsentia vero, mirum dictu,

nihil imminuit sed auxit omnia: vere maior fuit Roma maioresque sunt

reliquiæ quam rebar: iam non orbem ab hac urbe domitum sed tam sero

domitum miror. Vale.'

[326] The idea of the continuance of the sway of Rome under a new

character is one which mediæval writers delight to illustrate. In

Appendix, Note D, there is quoted as a specimen a poem upon Rome, by

Hildebert (bishop of Le Mans, and afterwards archbishop of Tours),

written in the beginning of the twelfth century.

[327] In writing this chapter I have derived much assistance from the

admirable work of Ferdinand Gregorovius, _Geschichte der Stadt Rom im

Mittelalter_. Unfortunately no English translation of it exists; but I

am informed by the author that one is likely ere long to appear.

[328] Republican forms of some sort had existed before Arnold's

arrival, but we hear the name of no other leader mentioned; and

doubtless it was by him chiefly that the spirit of hostility to the

clerical power was infused into the minds of the Romans.

[329] The series of papal coins is interrupted (with one or two slight

exceptions) from A.D. 984 (not long after the time of Alberic) to A.D.

1304. In their place we meet with various coins struck by the

municipal authorities, some of which bear on the obverse the head of

the Apostle Peter, with the legend Roman. Pricipe: on the reverse the

head of the Apostle Paul, legend, Senat. Popul. Q. R. Gregorovius, _ut

supra_.

[330] Rienzi called himself Augustus as well as tribune; 'tribuno

Augusto de Roma.' (He pretended, or his friends pretended for him--it

was at any rate believed--that he was an illegitimate son of the

Emperor Henry the Seventh.) He cited, on his appointment, the Pope and

cardinals to appear before the people of Rome and give an account of

their conduct; and after them the Emperor. 'Ancora citao lo Bavaro

(Lewis the Fourth). Puoi citao li elettori de lo imperio in Alemagna,

e disse "Voglio vedere che rascione haco nella elettione," che

trovasse scritto che passato alcuno tempo la elettione recadeva a li

Romani.'--_Vita di Cola di Rienzi_, c. xxvi (written by a

contemporary). I give the spelling as it stands in Muratori's edition.

[331] The Germans called this hill, which is the highest in or near

Rome, conspicuous from a beautiful group of stone-pines upon its brow,

Mons Gaudii; the origin of the Italian name, Monte Mario, is not

known, unless it be, as some think, a corruption of Mons Malus.

It was on this hill that Otto the Third hanged Crescentius and his

followers.

[332] I quote this from the _Ordo Romanus_ as it stands in Muratori's

third Dissertation in the _Antiquitates Italiæ medii ævi_.

[333] Great stress was laid on one part of the procedure,--the holding

by the Emperor of the Pope's stirrup for him to mount, and the leading

of his palfrey for some distance. Frederick Barbarossa's omission of

this mark of respect when Pope Hadrian IV met him on his way to Rome,

had nearly caused a breach between the two potentates, Hadrian

absolutely refusing the kiss of peace until Frederick should have gone

through the form, which he was at last forced to do in a somewhat

ignominious way.

[334] A remarkable speech of expostulation made by Otto III to the

Roman people (after one of their revolts) from the tower of his house

on the Aventine has been preserved to us. It begins thus: 'Vosne estis

mei Romani? Propter vos quidem meam patriam, propinquos quoque

reliqui; amore vestro Saxones et cunctos Theotiscos, sanguinem meum,

proieci; vos in remotas partes imperii nostri adduxi, quo patres

vestri cum orbem ditione premerent numquam pedem posuerunt; scilicet

ut nomen vestrum et gloriam ad fines usque dilatarem; vos filios

adoptavi: vos cunctis prætuli.'--_Vita S. Bernwardi_; in Pertz, _M. G.

H._, t. iv.

(It is from this form 'Theotiscus' that the Italian 'Tedesco' seems to

have been derived.)

[335] The Leonine city, so called from Pope Leo IV, lay between the

Vatican and St. Peter's and the river.

[336] It would seem that Otto was deceived, and that in reality they

are the bones of St. Paulinus of Nola.

[337] The only other of the Teutonic Emperors buried in Italy were, so

far as I know, Lewis the Second (whose tomb, with an inscription

commemorating his exploits, is built into the wall of the north aisle

of the famous church of S. Ambrose at Milan), Henry the Sixth and

Frederick the Second, who lie at Palermo, Conrad IV, buried at Foggia,

and Henry the Seventh, whose sarcophagus may be seen in the Campo

Santo of Pisa, a city always conspicuous for her zeal on the imperial

side.

Six Emperors lie buried at Speyer, three or four at Prague, two at

Aachen, two at Bamberg, one at Innsbruck, one at Magdeburg, one at

Quedlinburg, two at Munich, and most of the later ones at Vienna.

[338] See note 198, p. 178.

[339] See p. 117.

[340] These highly curious frescoes are in the chapel of St. Sylvester

attached to the very ancient church of Quattro Santi on the Cœlian

hill, and are supposed to have been executed in the time of Pope

Innocent III. They represent scenes in the life of the Saint, more

particularly the making of the famous donation to him by Constantine,

who submissively holds the bridle of his palfrey.

[341] The last imperial coronation, that of Charles the Fifth, took

place in the church of St. Petronius at Bologna, Pope Clement VII

being unwilling to receive Charles in Rome. It is a grand church, but

the choir, where the ceremony took place, seems to have been

'restored,' that is to say modernized, since Charles' time.

[342] The name of Cenci is a very old one at Rome: it is supposed to

be an abbreviation of Crescentius. We hear in the eleventh century of

a certain Cencius, who on one occasion made Gregory VII prisoner.

[343] Thus in the church of San Lorenzo without the walls there are

several pointed windows, now bricked up; and similar ones may be seen

in the church of Ara Cœli on the summit of the Capitol. So in the apse

of St. John Lateran there are three or four windows of Gothic form:

and in its cloister, as well as in that of St. Paul without the walls,

a great deal of beautiful Lombard work. The elegant porch of the

church of Sant' Antonio Abate is Lombard. In the apse of the church of

San Giovanni e Paolo on the Cœlian hill there is an external arcade

exactly like those of the Duomo at Pisa. Nor are these the only

instances.

The ruined chapel attached to the fortress of the Caetani family--the

family to which Boniface the Eighth belonged, and whose head is now

the first of the Roman nobility--is a pretty little building, more

like northern Gothic than anything within the walls of Rome. It stands

upon the Appian Way, opposite the tomb of Cæcilia Metella, which the

Caetani used as a stronghold.

[344] A good deal of the mischief done by Robert Guiscard, from which

the parts of the city lying beyond the Coliseum towards the river and

St. John Lateran never recovered, is attributed to the Saracenic

troops in his service. Saracen pirates are said to have once before

sacked Rome. Genseric was not a heathen, but he was a furious Arian,

which, as far as respect to the churches of the orthodox went, was

nearly the same thing. He is supposed to have carried off the

seven-branched candlestick and other vessels of the Temple, which

Titus had brought from Jerusalem to Rome.

[345] We are told that one cause of the ferocity of the German part of

the army of Charles was their anger at the ruinous condition of the

imperial palace.

[346] Under the influence, partly of this anti-pagan spirit, partly of

his own restless vanity, partly of a passion to be doing something,

Pope Sixtus the Fifth did a great deal of mischief in the way of

destroying or spoiling the monuments of antiquity.

[347] These campaniles are generally supposed to date from the ninth

and tenth centuries. I am informed, however, by Mr. J. H. Parker, of

Oxford, whose antiquarian skill is well known, that he is led to

believe by an examination of their mouldings that few or none, unless

it be that of San Prassede, are older than the twelfth century.

This of course applies only to the existing buildings. The type of

tower may be, and indeed no doubt is, older.

Somewhat similar towers may be observed in many parts of the Italian

Alps, especially in the wonderful mountain land north of Venice, where

such towers are of all dates from the eleventh or twelfth down to the

nineteenth century, the ancient type having in these remote valleys

been adhered to because the builder had no other models before him. In

the valley of Cimolais I have seen such a campanile in course of

erection, precisely similar to others in the neighbouring villages

some eight centuries old.

The very curious round towers of Ravenna, some four or five of which

are still standing, seem to have originally had similar windows,

though these have been all, or nearly all, stopped up. The Roman

towers are all square.

[348] The Palatine hill seems to have been then, as it is for the most

part now, a waste of stupendous ruins. In the great imperial palace

upon its northern and eastern sides was the residence of an official

of the Eastern court in the beginning of the eighth century. In the

time of Charles, some seventy years later, this palace was no longer

habitable.

[349] Such as we see it in the later and lesser churches of basilica

form.

[350] It was thus that most of the earlier Teutonic Emperors, and

notably Charles and Otto, professed to have obtained the crown;

although practically it was partly a matter of conquest and partly of

private arrangement with the Pope. In later times, the seven Germanic

princes were recognized as the legally qualified electoral body, but

their appearance on the stage was a result of the confusion of the

German kingdom with the Roman Empire, and in strictness they had

nothing to do with the Roman crown at all. The right to bestow it

could only--on principle--belong to some Roman authority, and those

who felt the difficulty were driven to suppose a formal cession of

their privilege by the Roman people to the seven electors. See p. 227

_supra_: and cf. Matthew Villani (iv. 77), 'Il popolo Romano, non da

se, ma la chiesa per lui, concedette la elezione degli Imperadori a

sette principi della Magna.'

[351] That which Dante, Arnold of Brescia, and the rest really have in

common with the modern Italian 'party of movement' is their hostility

to the temporal power of the Popes.

The Holy Roman Empire · 第 16 / 21 章