EARLY CUSTOMS.

It is to be regretted that so much has been forgotten of the early

customs and habits of former generations of this locality. For a long

time the city grew slowly; in comparatively recent times the farms have

been changed into city lots and the occupations and amusements have

taken different forms. Even traditions of early customs does not reach

much farther back than the beginning of the present century; but, owing

to the Dutch tenacity of clinging to inherited customs, it is probable

that the manners of eighty and a hundred years ago were not so very

different from those of their ancestors, especially as they retained

the quiet, simple life of a farming community. The great holiday of

the year, looked forward to alike by the old people, young men and

maidens and the children, was New Year's Day. Christmas was observed by

a service at the church, and not by gifts and friendly reunions; all

the jollity was reserved for New Year's day. Then the mother or the

grandmother brought out the bag of Spanish silver dollars, and each

child was allowed to take out one as a New Year's gift. In every house

was a store of "oley koecks" and New Year's cakes, a sort of "jumble"

or cookey, in shape either oblong or round, stamped with a design of a

vine, or bird, or flower, from a wooden stamp; these were kept ready

to give to the bands of visiting children who went from house to house

wishing the inmates a "Happy New Year." The young people went for long

sleighrides to neighboring towns, or friendly calls; the older people

made visits in the evening, dropping in upon their friends without an

invitation and staying to supper. After the New Year's festivities, the

"quilting parties" were the favorite social entertainment, when the

young women spent the afternoon in quilting the elaborate patch work

or other quilts; some were made of homespun woolen cloth and instead

of cotton, wool was used as a filling, and the quilting was in most

elaborate designs of vines and flowers. The young men came to supper

and the evening was spent in games and dancing. Then came the "Husking

bees" in the fall, varied by occasional "Apple-paring bees," but the

latter were more unusual. The women made occasional afternoon visits,

guests coming soon after the mid-day dinner and staying to tea.

The great day among the men came in June at the general muster of

the militia, or "General Training Day." This dated from the early

days of Bergen, the first militia having been organized June 30th,

1663. All men between eighteen and forty-five (or fifty) years of age

were required to meet upon that day each year to go through military

evolutions. All who absented themselves without a valid excuse

were subject to a fine. There was a company at Hackensack, one at

New Durham, one at Bergen and another at Bergen Point. The several

companies of the county formed a brigade and met at different places

on successive years, more frequently at New Durham or Bergen. Colonel

Sip was a colonel of militia and John I. Van Horn a captain. Both

served in the war of 1812-14. Captain Van Horn was in charge of a rough

block fort at Sandy Hook. He used to say that there was nothing to do

only when an American ship was being chased by the enemy, their guns

afforded it protection and enabled it to get safely into port. The war

of 1812-14 being largely a naval war, the militia of this locality

did not take a very active part in it. But during the war, the fort

at Paulus Hook was held by Drum Major John G. Sexton of the militia

and six men under his command. One great enjoyment of "Training Day"

with the Bergen Company was the supper they always had at the tavern

on Bergen avenue. This supper was a great event, looked forward to

through many months. While all meals at this tavern were held in high

esteem, upon this one day there was an unusually fine menu. The praises

of those gastronomic successes are still sung by such of the fortunate

participants as are still with us.

One peculiar custom among the Bergen Dutch, handed down from

generations even to recent times, has been that the masculine head of

the family always cut the smoked beef (a never failing dish) and the

bread. Formerly the bread was baked in large loaves in yellow earthen

dishes in a brick oven, and put upon the table uncut, then as each

person wished a slice the head of the house, holding the bread against

his breast, cut off a portion. Generally they lived very plainly;

sauerkraut, which was such a favorite dish among the Mohawk Valley and

Albany Dutch, seems to have been almost unknown here. Pound cake was a

favorite recipe and in the early part of this century the Communipaw

housewives carried their butter and eggs to certain bakers in Greenwich

street, New York, to have their pound cake baked for them. Their recipe

for crullers was very similar with the addition of a little more

flour. In all well regulated houses "Oley Koecks" were indispensable;

there was quite a difference in the way of making them, some recipes

are plain doughnuts of raised bread dough, sweetened and spiced only.

The following is a more elaborate recipe of 1750:

"One pint of milk, one cup fresh yeast, flour to make a stiff batter,

mix at night; in the morning add five eggs, two cups of sugar, one

cup of shortening, (half butter and half lard), one teaspoonful soda,

flour to make like bread dough, let stand until light, which will be

two or three hours; have ready chopped apples sweetened and flavored

with nutmeg and raisins; roll out and cut in pieces about four inches

square, place a tablespoonful of apple on each square, double over and

pinch together, drop in hot lard to fry."

In the old recipes pearlash is used, in these the modern term soda and

baking powder have been substituted. The early settlers made their own

pearlash by burning either corn cobs or a bit of wood, often birch or

maple, on the hearth, and from the clean ashes put in water obtained

the carbonate of potash desired.

The following recipes are also handed down from the early Dutch

housewives:

"Jumbles, (Koeckjes): One pound of flour, one half pound of sugar, less

than half pound of butter, three eggs, four tablespoons sweet milk, one

teaspoon saleratus."

"Dried Biscuits, (Old Dutch): Take one and a half pints warm milk,

one cake compressed yeast, one teaspoonful salt and flour enough to

make a sponge. When light, which will probably be in half an hour,

add one-fourth pound of butter, and knead with flour to about the

consistency of bread. Let rise again and then mould each biscuit in two

parts, putting one on the top of another, that they may be broken open

more easily. Put in pans and let rise before baking. When baked break

open and put in the warming oven until thoroughly dried."

"Soft Waffles, (Old Dutch): One quart of milk, make a batter with

flour, raise with yeast, when light add four eggs, one-quarter pound of

melted butter and a little salt. Beat all together, let rise again, and

add half a cup of sugar. Eat with sauce."

Old waffle irons with initials of early owners and the date are still

in existence; one has A. D. 1709.

"Fried Spack and Opples: Take slices of pickled pork, fry them well,

then take slices of apple and fry in the hot fat; if the apples are

sour, put a little molasses or brown sugar over them, when the apples

are brown, turn over and brown on the other side; serve with the slices

of pork laid around the edge of dish. If the apples are sweet, do not

use sweetening."

"Mince Pie, (Old Dutch): Seven bowls chopped tart apples, three bowls

chopped meat, seven pounds of sugar, one gallon cider (not sweet),

seven nutmegs, four tablespoonsful cinnamon, two tablespoonsful cloves,

two pounds of raisins, one pound of currants, one pound of citron, salt

and pepper."

"Buling Pudding, (Old Dutch): Four quarts of water, let it come to a

boil. Add one pint of rice, two cups of sugar, one-fourth pound of

cinnamon, one tablespoonful of salt, and buckwheat enough to make a

very stiff batter. Boil half an hour. Put in pie dishes and when cold

cut in slices and fry."

"Buckwheat Pudding, (Old Dutch): Have one quart of water boiling. Mix

two cups of buckwheat meal to a smooth batter with cold water; stir

this mixture into the boiling water; add to this one slice of raw, fat

salt pork chopped fine, one cupful of sugar, one teaspoonful each of

ground cloves, allspice, cinnamon and salt. Simmer one hour, stirring

frequently. Pour into a deep dish to cool. When cool this will leave

the dish easily if sufficiently cooked. Slice, fry brown and serve with

powdered sugar."

These two puddings recipes are still used in Holland.

Cookstoves were not introduced until about 1825 or later, the cooking

being done over an open fire. In the wide fire-place was fastened at

one side the "crane," a swinging iron bar, on which were hung iron pot

hooks, or trammels, upon these were swung the pots and kettles for

cooking. These were cleaned from soot and smoke by rubbing them in

the sand. The fire was built with a large log for back log, resting

on andirons, and in front and above it were piled smaller sticks and

chips of wood. They used kettles of different sizes made with three

iron feet, long handled frying pans; bake kettles--broad, shallow

kettles with iron covers upon which hot coals were piled; skillets, a

small iron pot, holding from one to two quarts, with short handles and

three iron feet, to set on a bed of coals in front of the fire to cook

little messes. Meats were roasted suspended by a string before the fire

and twirled from time to time, or in tin Dutch ovens, which were open

towards the fire. Bread, cake, etc., were baked in the brick oven. The

ordinary bread used was of rye and Indian meal. The brick ovens were

prepared for baking by building a hot fire in them and when the wood

was burned to coals it was shovelled out and the bread, etc., put in

and the oven securely closed. A long handled shovel called a "peel" or

a "slice" was used to put the things in to bake. Beside the fire-place

stood shovel and tongs, and usually there hung there a bellows for

blowing up the fire when low, and a turkey's wing to brush up the

hearth. The first stoves used were the Franklin and many of those used

in Bergen were cast by Martin Ryerson at Pompton, N. J. Coal was not

used for fuel until about 1826, and at first in grates only.

The killing of their own beeves and pork was practiced by the farmers

of Bergen and Communipaw as late or later than 1840. They lived almost

entirely upon the produce of their farms. In November they killed and

laid up their year's supply of meat. The skins of the beeves were sent

to the tanner who cured them for the half; from their share the boots

and shoes for the family were made by a shoemaker who came to the house

to work. This custom was kept up until 1825.

In the early days there were large tracts of white cedar along the

western slope of Bergen Hill, on the old swamp road to Belleville

which led from the Newark Turnpike and near Sikakes. From this cedar

the farmers had casks made in which to keep their salted meats. Fresh

meats, sausages, in immense quantities, head-cheese, and "roellachoje"

(a pickled preparation of beef tongue and tripe) were kept in a cool

garret. The first butcher in Jersey City was John W. Holmes, who

started about 1814; he was succeeded in 1816 by Henry Drayton, who

came to Jersey City from Somersetshire, England, but city ways and

conveniences did not reach Bergen and Communipaw for many years later.

It is said that the first huckster known in Jersey City was a character

called "High, Low, Jack," who, in the '60's, began to go about from

house to house selling clams and huckleberries. His cries were a

constant amusement to the children, who used to follow him in crowds.

During the first quarter of this century, wool from their sheep was

spun and wove at home; the spinning was done by the women of the

family, sometimes assisted by young women who "went out spinning." Men

went about to do the weaving. On some places there were weave houses,

in others there was a weave room in the cellar. When the cloth was

woven it was usually dyed blue; a blue dye tub being kept to dye the

stocking yarn and cloth. Later the cloth was sent to the fullers, then

tailoresses came to the house and made it up into clothing for both men

and women.

The women went to New York to market, carrying butter and eggs to sell,

and there are traditions in some families of their avoiding the "Mill

and Church road" on their return, and climbing over the rocks, in the

long walk from the ferry, fearing that they might be robbed of their

store of silver dollars, carried in the large pocket, fastened about

the waist and worn under the dress skirt. A story is told of a very

philosophic old lady who sold buttermilk which her customers accused

her of diluting with water. The proceeds she invested in a silver

tankard. Upon her return from New York in a row-boat across the river,

it was so rough that in the rocking of the boat the parcel with the

tankard fell overboard and was lost. "Well," exclaimed the old lady,

"let it go, it came from the water and has gone back to the water."

A great event to the children was the yearly candle-making in many

families; they were all allowed to make a few little candles for

themselves when they were so fortunate as to be the happy possessors of

toy candlesticks. Candle-making was quite a long and wearisome process.

First the proper length of candle wicking was doubled over long slender

rods, and the ends twisted together to form the wick of the prospective

candle. The number of these upon a rod depended upon the size of the

candle to be made, whether six or eight to the pound. These were

prepared the day before the dipping was done. In the early morning long

pieces of scantling were laid upon two saw-horses, and across these

scantlings were laid the rods with the wicks hanging down. At one side

was placed a large "cauldron kettle" filled with hot melted tallow into

which the operator dipped the rods of wicks. The kettle of hot tallow

was kept replenished and the dipping process was repeated again and

again until the candles were of the required size. After being properly

cooled they were slipped from the rods, the wicks cut off and they were

carefully packed away in boxes. Later candle moulds were invented,

which made it very much easier than the old method.

In dress the women did not wear the ornamental caps, such as were

worn in Holland, but very plain ones; neither did they wear as many

petticoats as their sisters across the sea, three or four usually

being the limit. It was not the custom here in Bergen, to set apart

a dower chest for each daughter, to which yearly additions were made

of household and personal linen, and a silver spoon, as was practiced

by some of the Holland families in Albany and in some parts of

Pennsylvania. Upon marriage each daughter was given a little store of

linen; upon the death of her father, perhaps a little money; but, as

a delightful old lady told me, "the land and the property mostly went

to the sons, the girls were expected to marry money." Under the old

Dutch law both sons and daughters became of legal age at twenty-five.

The girls were carefully trained in household arts and in the use of

the needle. Little girls under nine years of age wrought elaborate

samplers. It was a common practice to make the pillow cases with an

insertion of drawn work in linen at the closed end of the case, under

which showed the bit of red cloth sewed on the end of the pillow; the

open end of the pillow case was left untrimmed.

Children were taught to be very courteous to their elders; upon meeting

any one in the street little girls curtesied and the boys made a bow.

The Bergen Dutch women and their daughters were very practical thrifty

women, most excellent housewives and devoted mothers. Both men and

women devoted themselves in the most matter of fact way to the duties

of life, never allowing anything less serious than a funeral to disturb

to any great extent the routine of daily life. I have heard of a

bride brought home upon her wedding day to her father-in-law's house,

who, upon the first evening started out to milk the cows, saying she

"preferred to take up the duties of her new position at once." I have

heard also of a bridegroom, a merchant who attended to his usual duties

upon the morning of his wedding day, and after the ceremony returned

again to his store.

Slavery existed until 1820, when all slaves were made free at

twenty-five years of age. The old slaves were cared for during the

remainder of their lives. It was for the colored people that the first

Sunday School in Bergen was opened in 1828, in the garret of the

school-house. Many of the slaves ran away to New York and Connecticut.

Those who went to New York lived in cellars or wherever they could

find shelter. When any of them died their friends always brought them

back to Communipaw to bury them, and their funerals were held at the

old Garrabrant stone house, which used to stand on what is now Philip

street. One peculiar feature was that on every coffin was placed a

bunch of freshly plucked spearmint. They were buried on the Garrabrant

farm in what is now Lafayette, and also on the Van Reypen place.

A hundred years ago, lotteries were held in great esteem, as a popular

means of raising funds to build churches, colleges, schools, roads,

prisons, and charitable institutions. The first ever drawn in this

locality was at Paulus Hook in 1773, and in 1824 a "Queen's College

Literature Lottery" was advertised in Jersey City. Some of Jersey

City's most reputable people were engaged in lotteries and accumulated

fortunes in the business. Later the Legislature passed laws making

it illegal and the parties then conducting a lottery in Jersey City

removed their business to Wilmington, Delaware, where it was carried on

for many years.

[Illustration: A. Dey]

[Illustration: Jacob Radcliff]

[Illustration: Rich. Varick]

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