THE SHORE OF DEATH
In relation to the _Maid of Sker_, the most important places in the
immediate vicinity of Barnstaple are undoubtedly Heanton Court,
Braunton, and Saunton. Heanton Court, as we have seen, is only a memory.
In the early part of the seventeenth century it was described as a
“sweet, pleasant seat”; and the account proceeded, “the house is a
handsome pile, well-furnished with every variety of entertainment which
the earth, the sea, and the air can afford. A place, whether you respect
pleasure or profit, daintily situated on an arm of the sea.” A later
notice speaks of it as standing at the bottom of a park, very near the
river Taw, and acquaints us that it had a new front of two storeys, each
of which contained eleven windows, and was ornamented with battlements,
while at either end was a tower. Other particulars have been given in a
previous chapter (see p. 211), and need not be recapitulated here. The
reader, however, may be assured of the identity of Blackmore’s Narnton
Court with this historic mansion.
Braunton is a village not easily forgotten. The scenery is magnificent,
and the great hills
[Illustration: TAWSTOCK CHURCH, NEAR BARNSTAPLE (page 250).]
furnish admirable opportunity for climbing. On alighting at the railway
station, the stranger will encounter an array of coachmen anxious to
whisk him off without delay to Saunton Sands, but he will do well to
resist their importunities until, at least, he has inspected the
interior of Braunton Church. If he converses with the natives, somebody
will be sure to tell him that three successive attempts were made to
erect it on Chapel Hill, and that each time the building collapsed, the
assumed reason being that the spot chosen by man was not the site
approved and predestined by Heaven. He will learn also that in the panel
work of the roof of the church, carved on one of the bosses, is the
representation of a sow with a litter of pigs. This singular emblem is
associated with St Brannock, the Irish missionary; indeed, the very name
of the place is said to have been originally Brannock’s town, and it is
averred that he founded a church on the site of the present one. As for
the sow and her offspring, the legend is that St Brannock was commanded
in a dream to rear a Christian temple on the spot where he should light
on this vision of fecundity; and it is added that he fetched the timber
on a plough, to which he yoked the red deer of the adjacent forests,
“who mildly obeyed him,” while he milked the complaisant hinds. The old
writer concludes summarily: “But to proceed no farther and to forbear to
speak of his cow (which, being killed, chopped in pieces, and boiling in
his kettle, came out whole and sound at his call), his staff, his oak,
and his man Abel, which would seem wonders--yet all these you may see
lively represented unto you in a fair glass window as this present, if
you desire it.”
Mr Z. E. A. Wade characterises this venerable tradition rather fiercely
as a “senseless story,” and proposes a symbolic interpretation which is
certainly ingenious, and in the main not unlikely to be correct.
“Popular story says he tried in vain to build on a certain spot, but was
bidden in a dream to rear his proposed church where he should encounter
a litter of pigs. He was to rebuild the work of earlier saints, the
_pige_ or _pigen_, female teachers, who had before his day fulfilled the
promise of the Psalmist, ‘The women that publish the tidings are a great
host.’ _Pige_ is the Danish word for a maid; _piga_ is the Anglo-Saxon
form, hence the diminutive of Margaret. So Peg-cross is not unknown....
“The cow or ox of sacrifice--also on an ancient church of Youghal--which
finds place in his story, is suggested by the name of the place whence
he came, Cowbridge, and by the covering of the boat in which he and his
fellow-travellers came. His staff and oak explain themselves.... The
‘man Abel’ in the story carries sticks; ‘Isaac carrying wood represents
Christ bearing the Cross,’ said Bede in A.D. 677, a few years after
Brannock’s time. ‘Under wood, under rood.’ This saint’s man was ‘the man
Christ Jesus.’ The hart was one of the earliest types of the Christian,
to be met with over and over again in the Catacombs, and on
baptisteries, and the image of the 42nd Psalm is still used in sacred
song. It is said of monks in St David’s school ‘that they were required
to yoke themselves to the plough and turn up the soil without the aid
of oxen.’ The harts at Braunton, like those on the sketch from St
Andrew’s, were converts.”
At Braunton dwelt the fair Polly, after her days of service, and before
she wedded old David (_Maid of Sker_, chapter lxiii.).
Now as to Saunton Sands, which are perhaps three miles in length, and
viewed from the high ground at Braunton, form, with their grotesque
hummocks, a weird background to the smiling landscape. Although efforts
have been made to bind it by means of vegetation, sand continues to be
blown inland, and Westcote states that in his time the wind drove it to
large heaps near the house or court, by which he apparently intends
Saunton Court, now a farmhouse. Between Saunton and Braunton the ruins
of an ancient settlement have been seen amidst trees that have been
“thrown down and overwhelmed.” Westcote goes on to declare that a great
quantity of the sand was removed every day to serve as manure for the
fields, yet there was no diminution in the sum total, the wind
constantly supplying the deficiency. On these grounds the old historian
makes the name of the place “Sandton, _quasi_ Sand-town.”
To this Mr Wade demurs, his own derivation being “Sancton,” a holy
place. It seems that on Saunton Sands were chapels of St Sylvester, St
Michael, and St Helen, as well as numerous palmer’s crosses; and he
suggests that since the Celtic missionaries set foot in the country in
the sixth and seventh centuries, hundreds of acres have been submerged
by the sands. This idea is more than probable, and will remind the
reader of the early chapters of the _Maid of Sker_, which contain
realistic descriptions of similar visitations on the coast of Wales. In
the same work Blackmore frequently alludes to the Saunton Sands, the
scene of the fictitious burial of the Bampfylde infants.
More famous than Saunton Sands are Woolacombe Sands, chiefly owing to
their associations with the Tracys, some of which are purely mythical.
There is a sensational story of two brothers fighting a duel on
Woolacombe Sands for the hand of a waif who had been rescued from the
sea by their father; and a notion exists that they were possibly Henry
de Tracy, who died in 1272, and his brother and co-heir Oliver, who
followed him within a year or two after. Dark hints are thrown out that
one of the duellists was rector of Ilfracombe from 1263 to 1272.
The most celebrated member of the family came earlier, and he owes his
celebrity to the fact that he was one of the four assassins of Thomas à
Becket. According to Risdon, who is decidedly wrong, William de Tracy,
after the commission of the deed, lived in retirement at Woolacombe; and
on the south side of Morthoe Church is an altar tomb, which Risdon and
Westcote agree in assigning to the murderer (or patriot). The Devonshire
tradition is in flat contradiction to the official version of the Church
of Rome, which imputes that William de Tracy died at Cosenza, in
Calabria, within four years of the sacrilege; but other accounts testify
that four years after Becket’s death Tracy was Justiciar of Normandy,
and that he survived his victim fifty-three years. These various stories
are clearly irreconcilable, but one thing appears certain, that the
altar tomb with the figure engraved on the grey marble and bearing the
half-erased inscription, _Sqre [Guillau] me de Tracy [gist ici Dieu de
son al] me eyt merci_, has absolutely nothing to do with any secular
person. The figure is that of a priest in his robes, holding a chalice
with both hands over his breast, and that priest was William de Tracy,
rector of Morthoe, who died in 1322.
Blackmore does not say much of the Tracys, although he brackets them
with the Bassets and “St Albyns” as an old West-country family. (See
_Maid of Sker_, chapter lxvi.).
It is singular to find a remote spot like Woolacombe identified with
political adventure, although it might have been, at one time, an apt
place “to talk treason in.” Odd to say, the Tracys of Woolacombe-Tracy
have not been the only men to bring the great world, as it were, to
these yellow sands. Already I have quoted the gossiping Cutcliffe; now I
will quote him once more. In a letter of October 8, 1728, he writes:
“Last Sunday se’nnight, the Duke of Ripperda (who lately escaped out of
the Castle of Segovia) was putt on Woolacombe Sands, out of an Irish
barque; he had no one with him but the lady who procured his
deliverance, the corporal of the guard, and one servant. He was
handsomely treated at Mr Harris’s, and last Tuesday went on to Exon.”
The Mr Harris by whom the stranger was entertained was John Harris, of
Pickwell, in the parish of Georgeham, who was twice M.P. for Barnstaple,
and died in 1768, aged sixty-four. Who was the Duke of Ripperda?
Protestant, Catholic, Mussulman, soldier, courtier, diplomatist,
Dutchman, Spaniard, Moor--all these parts were supported (not, of
course, at one and the same time) by the extraordinary character, who
appeared momentarily, in his meteoric career, on the north-west coast of
Devon. The whole of his chequered life cannot be recorded here. Suffice
it to say that he was born towards the end of the seventeenth century,
and came of a distinguished family in Holland. Having won his spurs as a
soldier, he was sent on a diplomatic mission to Madrid, where he became
the trusted minister of Philip V., and was created a duke. Incurring the
hostility of the Spanish grandees, he was accused of treason and thrown
in 1726 into the Castle of Segovia, whence, at the date of the above
letter, he had just escaped. He next turned Mahomedan, and took service
with the Emperor of Morocco, who appointed him commander in his army.
His attacks on the Spaniards proving unsuccessful, he was imprisoned,
and solaced his captivity by elaborating a sort of _via media_ between
the Jewish religion and Islamism. In 1734 he was ordered to quit the
country, and found an asylum in Tetuan. He died in 1737.
The northern horn of Morte Bay is formed by Morte Point, with Morte
Stone in close proximity. As the spot is unquestionably dangerous, there
is no risk, I imagine, in accepting the ordinary and obvious
etymology--Mort, Morte Point and Morte Stone are as tragedy and comedy.
Concerning the latter there is an ancient saw, “Would you remove Morte
Stone?” and for centuries it has been held that no one can accomplish
the feat save the man who can rule his spouse. Another tradition asserts
that the stone can be moved by a bevy of good wives exercising
sovereignty over their husbands. In this connection it may be noted that
the old fable of Chichevache and Bycorn (the former a sorry cow, whose
food is good women; and the latter fat and well-liking, owing to
abundance of good and enduring husbands) is represented on the corbels
of Ilfracombe Church amidst a menagerie of apes, mermaids, griffins,
gnomes, centaurs, cockatrices, and other extinct hybrids too numerous to
mention.
Morthoe has a bad record for wrecking operations, which brought much
discredit on this coast, and of which it was one of the principal
centres. Prayers are said to have been offered that “a ship might come
ashore before morning.” To facilitate this blessed consummation, a
lantern was tied to some animal, and by this wandering light poor
mariners were lured through the treacherous mist to their doom. Even
women were to be found cruel enough to participate in this murderous
trade, and the tale is told that one of Eve’s daughters held a drowning
sailor under water with a pitchfork. Another, a farmer’s wife living at
a certain barton, secured as a prize some chinaware, which was arranged
on her dresser. One day a sailor’s widow happened to enter, and
recognising the ware as belonging to her late husband’s craft, seized a
stick and smashed it to atoms. The farmer’s wife thereupon became a
prey to remorse, and not long afterwards gave herself up to justice. A
painful story regards the wreck of an Italian ship, when the only person
on board to reach the shore was a young and beautiful lady, who bore
with her a casket of precious family jewels, saved at the risk of her
life. Utterly unmoved by her tears and entreaties, the savage wreckers
carried her off to one of their vile haunts, and nothing was heard of
her again. Many years after the event, the jewels, it was said, were
still in the neighbourhood.
The last recorded instance of this shameful practice on the north-west
coast of Devon occurred in 1846, at Welcomb, near Hartland, where a
vessel and her ill-fated crew were ruthlessly sacrificed to the cupidity
of heartless local wreckers. By the way, Blackmore’s account of a wreck
in the _Maid of Sker_ is perhaps founded on the circumstance that at the
commencement of the great war two transports from the French West India
islands, laden with black prisoners, were driven ashore at Rapparee
Cove, many lives being lost, whilst, afterwards, gold and pearls were
washed about among the shingle.
Rapparee Cove is at Ilfracombe, which Blackmore describes as “a little
place lying in a hole, and with great rocks all around it, fair enough
to look at it, but more easy to fall down than to get up them” (_Maid of
Sker_, chapter lxv.).
Historically, Ilfracombe has not much of interest save the escapades of
the saint-like Cavalier, Sir Francis Doddington, who in
[Illustration: TOWARDS MORTE POINT.]
September 1644 set the place on fire, but was beaten out by the townsmen
and sailors, with the loss of many of his followers. Ten days later he
returned, and, falling on the town with his horse, succeeded in
capturing it. “Twenty pieces of ordnance, as many barrels of powder, and
near 200 arms,” were amongst his spoils. Ilfracombe was retaken for the
Parliament in April 1646.
Sir Francis was no lukewarm partisan, for meeting one Master James,
described as “an honest minister,” near Taunton, he demanded whom he was
for? “For God and His Gospel,” was the other’s reply, whereupon the
enraged knight immediately shot him.
It was to Ilfracombe that Colonel Wade, Captains Hewling and Carey, and
others fled after the battle of Sedgemoor, and here they left Ferguson,
their chaplain, and Thompson, captain of the Blue Regiment, whilst they
themselves, having seized and victualled a vessel, put out to sea. Being
pursued by two frigates, they had to land at Lynmouth, as already
narrated (see p. 154).
The great charm of the neighbourhood is its bold scenery and romantic
walks, one of which will conduct the wayfarer to Hele, with its old
earthwork, and thence to Chambercombe, concerning which Mr Tugwell has
preserved a most delightful legend, worthy to be reproduced at length:--
Chambercombe is now a retired farmhouse in a beautifully wooded valley,
through which saunters the little streamlet which shortly afterwards
empties itself into the sea at Hele Strand. The inhabitants still show
the Haunted Room to the curious in such matters--a long, low chamber in
the roof of the house, from which the flooring has been removed, and
which is now used only for the purpose of storing away useless lumber.
There are many versions of the legend which belongs to this house; the
one which I shall give seems to have the merit of a quaint originality,
and is sufficiently mysterious in its unexplained connection with former
days.
Many years ago, the burly, ruddy-cheeked, well-to-do yeoman who owned
this farm was sitting under the shade of a tree in his garden, enjoying
in the cool of the summer’s evening his much-loved pipe of meditation
and contentment. After a time he exhausted his usual subjects of
reverie, the state of his crops, the rise or fall of wages, the
prospects of the next Barnstaple Fair. What should he do? He could not
“whistle for want of thought,” because of his pipe--he couldn’t even
indulge in the excitement of a matrimonial “difference of opinion,”
because his wife was gone into ‘Combe to sell her last batch of
chickens. Whatever should he do?
The evening was very still and warm, not even a breath of wind stirring
in the copse on the hillside, where the last kiss of the sunset lingered
lovingly. He was just dropping off into a doze, and had nodded once or
twice with much energy, to the imminent danger of his “yard o’ clay,”
when it suddenly occurred to him that he had forgotten to see about some
necessary repairs in the roof of his house, and that his spouse had a
better memory for such things than himself, and would not fail to
remind him of the same on her return.
So he roused himself, and facing his chair in the direction of the
house, began to arrange in his mind the when and where of his intended
operations. The hole in the roof was over his wife’s store-room, which
accounted for her anxiety in the matter, and as he did not expect to be
allowed to interfere with that sanctum, he settled that he would get at
the roof from the next window, which opened into a passage, and had a
low parapet in front of it. Then he rubbed his eyes. Certainly the
passage was next to the store-room, and the passage window was the only
window with a parapet to it, and therefore the next window to the
parapet must be the store-room window, and consequently must have the
hole in the roof over it--ably argued and very conclusive. But, to his
great perplexity, the fact stared him in the face that the aforesaid
hole was over the window which was _next but one_ to the parapet. Then
he counted the rooms of the house--“Our Sal’s bedroom--passage--wife’s
store-room--own bedroom--one--two--three--four.” Next he counted the
windows--“one--two--three--four--_five_.”
There was one too many. He repeated the process with the same result.
Between the passage and the store-room, which were next to each other,
there was decidedly a window--the window too many.
If a window, then a room--unanswerable logic!
Now thoroughly aroused, he dashed his pipe to the ground with a vast
exclamation, and rushed into the house at the top of his speed. It was
the work of a moment to call together half a dozen able-bodied
serving-men, to arm them and himself with divers spades and mattocks,
and to scale the creaking stairs which led to the parapet window. There
was no trace of a door, nothing but a flat, white-washed wall. He
sounded it with a hasty blow, and a dull, hollow sound rang through the
house.
“Odswinderakins!” roared the farmer. “Down wi’ un, boys! Virst o’ ye
thro’ un shall ha’ Dame’s apern vull of zilver gerts.[23] Gi’ it un,
lads!”
Clash went the mattocks into the cob-wall; cling, clang rang the spades
on the oak floor. A cloud of dust rolled through the staircase as the
farmer’s pick-axe went up to the head in the first breach, and the
farmer’s wife rushed up the stairs. Half-choked, and wholly stunned by
the din, she could get little information beyond a general statement
that the Goodger[24] was in the house, which seemed self-evident.
Another five minutes’ work, and the farmer dashed through the gap, which
barely admitted his burly person, followed by his wife, whose curiosity
mastered her rage and fright.
And what did they see?
A long, low room, hung with moth-eaten, mouldering tapestry, whose every
thread exhaled a moist rank odour of forgotten years; black festoons of
ancient cobwebs in the rattling casement and round the carved work of
the open cornice; carved oak chairs, and wardrobe, and round table;
black, too, and rickety, and dust-covered, and worm-eaten; the white
ashes of a wood fire on a cracked hearth-stone; and a bed. The
embroidered hangings were drawn closely round the oaken posts, and
rustled shiveringly in the gust of fresh air which wandered round the
room.
“Draw un, Jan, if thee beest a mon,” whispered the dame under her
breath, looking round anxiously in the direction of the gap at which she
had entered.
John screwed up all his courage, and with a desperate hand tore down the
hangings on the side which was nearest the window.
In that dim half-light, for the night was closing in rapidly and the
shadows falling heavily, they saw a white and grinning skull gazing
grimly at them from the hollowed pillow, and one white and polished
arm-bone lying idly on the crimson quilt, and clutching the silken
fringe with its crooked fingers.
The dame swooned with a great cry, and her husband, stunned and
sickened, dashed to the casement, and, swinging it back on its creaking
hinges, leant out, for the sake of a breath of pure air.
Horror of horrors! The garden was alive with ghastly forms; ill-shapen,
unearthly, demon-like heads rose and fell with threatening gestures, and
mopped and mowed at him from among the flowers of that quiet plesaunce.
Hastily raising his wife in his strong arms, he made his way as best he
could through the welcome breach, nor did he rest that night till he had
walled up and secured, for a future generation, the terrors of the
Haunted Room.
“I should love thee, Jewel, wert thou not a Zwinglian. In thy faith thou
art a heretic, but in thy life thou art an angel”--in such terms did Dr
John Harding address his former school-fellow at Barnstaple, but at that
time his great antagonist--Bishop Jewel, whom Westcote describes, with
punning enthusiasm, as “a perfect rich gem and true jewel indeed.” This
ornament of the English Church was born at Bowden, in the parish of
Berry Narbor, which has the reputation of being about the healthiest in
the country--a place where only old people die. The seventeenth-century
writer, evidently a lover of puns, quotes the following epitaph on one,
Nicholas Harper, who lies buried in the church:--
“Harper, the musique of thy life,
So sweet, so free from jarr or strife,
To crowne thy skill hath raysed thee higher
And placed thee in angels’ quier,
For though that death hath throwen thee down,
In heaven thou hast thy harpe and crowne.”
In Swymbridge Church, where Parson “Jack” Russell ministered so long, is
a “shoppy” inscription on a monument erected to the memory of “John
Rosier, Gent., one of the Attorneys of the Court of Common Pleas and an
Auncient of the Hon^{ble} Society of Lyons Inne, who died the 25th day
of December, 1685, Ætatis suae, 57.” It is as follows:--
“Loe with a warrant sealed by God’s decree
Death his grim sergieant hath arrested mee,
No bayle was to be given, no law could save
My body from the prison of the grave.
Yet by the Gospell my poor soule had got
A supersedeas, and death seaz’d it not;
And for my downe cast body, here it lyes;
A prisoner of hope, it shall arise.
Faith doth assure mee God of his great love
In Christ will send a writ for my remove,
And set my body, as my soul is, free
With Christ in Heaven--Come, glorious Libertie!”
Our next and last point is Combmartin, Westcote’s village--a long,
straggling place, which Miss Marie Corelli annexed for her _Mighty
Atom_, and another lady, whom I met at Challacombe some years ago,
designated with pious horror as “dark”--no doubt in allusion to the bits
of folklore, which--happily, as I think--yet linger in these rural
districts. It would be easy to cite many illustrations of West-country
“superstition,” such as the fruitful influences of the moon, which will
send a man to dig in his garden when it is covered with snow; but,
having devoted a considerable section of my _Book of Exmoor_ to this
fascinating topic, I will here confine myself to the principal interest
of Combmartin--namely, its silver mines. In the reign of Elizabeth,
however, it was a great place for hemp, and a project was formed for
establishing a port at Hartland entirely on account of this trade. As it
was, the shoemakers’ thread manufactured in the neighbourhood was
sufficient to supply the whole of the western counties.
As to the mines, Westcote states:--
“This town hath been rich and famous for her silver mines, of the first
finding of which there are no certain records remaining. In the time of
Edward I. they were wrought, but in the tumultuous reign of his son
they might chance to be forgotten until his nephew (?) Edward III., who
in his French conquest made good use of them, and so did Henry V., of
which there are divers monuments, their names to this time remaining; as
the King’s mine, storehouse, blowing-house, and refining-house.”
The industry was resumed in Queen Elizabeth’s reign, but seems to have
been checked by the influx of water. However, a great quantity of silver
is said to have been raised and refined, mainly through the enterprise
of Adrian Gilbert and Sir Beavois Bulmer, who bargained for half the
profit. Each partner realised £10,000. The owner of the land, Richard
Roberts, who happens to have been Westcote’s father-in-law, presented
William Bourchier, Earl of Bath, with a “rich and rare” cup, bearing the
quaint inscription:--
“In Martin’s Comb long lay I hiyd,
Obscur’d, deprest w^{th} grossest soyle,
Debased much w^{th} mixed lead,
Till Bulmer came, whoes skill and toyle
Refined me so pure and cleen,
As rycher no wher els is seene.
“And adding yet a farder grace,
By fashion he did inable
Me worthy for to take a place
To serve at any Prince’s table,
Comb Martyn gave the Oare alone,
Bulmer fyning and fashion.”
Another cup was given to Sir Richard Martin, Lord Mayor of London, who
was also master and manager of the Mint, the design being that it
[Illustration: COMBMARTIN CHURCH.]
should remain in the permanent possession of the Corporation. It weighed
137 oz., and like its fellow, was engraved with naïve, and, I fear,
doggerel verses.
“When water workes in broaken wharfe
At first erected were,
And Beavis Bulmer with his art
The waters, ’gan to reare,
Disperced I in earth dyd lye
Since all beginnings old,
“In place cal’d Comb wher Martin long
Had hydd me in his molde.
I did no service on the earth,
Nor no man set me free,
Till Bulmer by skill and charge
Did frame me this to be.”
The Latin appendices to the “poems” show the date of the presentations
to have been the year 1593; and Blackmore seems to refer to them when he
speaks of the “inaccurate tales concerning” the silver cup at
Combmartin, sent to Queen Elizabeth (_Lorna Doone_, chapter lviii.).
Ultimately the flooding, with which there was no means of effectually
coping, put a stop to the operations; but it is possible that they were
not entirely suspended, as a few years ago I saw a report in a local
journal that a Combmartin half-crown of 1645 was sold in an auction room
in London for the sum of £5. 12s. 6d.
In 1659 the working of the mines was brought before Parliament by a
distinguished mineralogist named Bushell, but nothing was done, and,
when, forty years later, an attempt was made to exploit them, it
resulted in failure. Between 1796 and 1802 the experiment was renewed,
and 9293 tons of ore were shipped to Wales. The mines were then closed,
and so remained till 1813, when 208 tons were sent to Bristol. The cost,
however, exceeded the profit, and in 1817 the mining was again
abandoned.
Yet another effort was made in 1833, this time by a joint-stock company
with a capital of £30,000, nearly half of which was expended in plant,
the sinking of shafts, etc. However, a rich vein having been discovered,
work was carried on feverishly night and day, and a large profit
realised, three dividends being made to the shareholders. As the result,
shares were run up to a high premium by speculators, who, in mining
phraseology, “worked the eye out.” In 1845 a smelting company was
formed, but neither this nor the mining company, whose expenses averaged
£500 a month, was destined to last. In 1848 the engines were taken down,
and apart from a spasmodic and, ’tis said, unprincipled attempt at
company promoting in 1850, nothing has since been done.
The levels were driven under the village; and beneath the King’s Arms
(or Pack of Cards, as the old manor-house of the Leys is usually
designated) runs a subterranean passage, constructed for drainage
purposes. The ore is exceedingly rich in silver and lead, and the
opinion has been expressed that the mines, worked fairly, would have
yielded a tolerable return.
There is an old saying, “Out of the world, and into Combmartin.” On this
odd text Miss Annie Irwin has based the following pretty verses:--
“‘Out of the world’ they call thee. True,
Thy rounded bay of loveliest blue,
Thy soft hills veiled in silvery grey,
Where glancing lights and shadows stray;
“Thy orchards gemmed with milk-white bloom,
Thy whispering woodlands, grateful gloom,
Thy tower, whose fair proportions rise,
’Mid the green trees, to summer skies--
“Viewed thus afar, by one just fled
From the vast city’s restless tread,
He well might deem, when gazing here,
His footsteps pressed some lovelier sphere.”
Both Combmartin and Martinhoe--Martin’s vale and Martin’s hill--received
their name from one of William the Conqueror’s ablest lieutenants,
Martin of Tours.
The horrible murder which gave rise to the traditional couplet,
“If anyone asketh who killed thee,
Say ’twas the Doones of Bagworthy,”
is located by Blackmore in the parish of Martinhoe, and he subjoins the
following note: “The story is strictly true; and true it is that the
country-people rose, to a man, at this dastard cruelty, and did what the
Government failed to do.” The term “strictly” seems to imply that
Blackmore had been informed by some authority that Martinhoe was the
place of the tragedy, and that murder was aggravated by abduction. On
both these points the account in _Lorna Doone_ is at variance with Mr
Cooper’s version (quoted on p. 144), which mentions Exford as the scene
of the butchery, and altogether omits the other incident. Of course,
there may have been different versions floating about.
Past Lee Bay and Wooda Bay, both sweetly sylvan, the pilgrim fares to
the Valley of Rocks and Lynton.
ENVOY
The most expeditious mode of returning from the precipices and cascades
of Lynton is by means of the light railway to Barnstaple. The
conscientious pilgrim, however, will not quit the neighbourhood without
visiting Parracombe, which ought to be, in a peculiar sense, his Mecca.
In the prologue, reasons have been advanced, which need not be repeated,
why this is the case, and although our course has been a devious one, it
will now be recognised that there was method in the madness. The spot
which must have been to Blackmore the most sacred of all--except,
perhaps, Teddington Churchyard, where his wife slept her last sleep--was
surely Parracombe--the home of his race; and here I propose to take
leave of the reader. The local traffic being small, trains do not stop
at Parracombe all the year round, but at any time this courtesy will be
extended to passengers desiring it.
The manor of Parracombe was formerly in the hands of the St Albans (or
Albyns) family, joined by Blackmore (_Maid of Sker_, chapter lxvi.) with
the Tracys and Bassets, as among the most distinguished in North Devon.
About a century and a half ago their lands were sold, principally to
yeomen who farmed the soil; and, as we have seen, the Blackmores
belonged to this category. A representative of the clan still owns Court
Place and Church Town farms; and Mr H. R. Blackmore, proprietor of the
“Fox and Goose,” can claim to be second cousin of the novelist.
Situated on the south-west of the river Heddon is Halwell Farm, the
property of Sir Thomas Acland, where is a circular British encampment,
standing, as such encampments usually do, on a height. The trenches are
about fifteen feet deep. There are two or three similar remains within a
short radius, but they are less conspicuous and important. It is said
that cannon balls have been dug up at Halwell Castle.
Mr Page does not speak too flatteringly of the scenery, but Parracombe
Common, with its scent-laden breezes, is by no means destitute of charm,
for the purple eminence of Chapman Barrows, the highest point in North
Devon, and the lovely valley of Trentishoe below, compose a landscape
fair enough for the most exacting eye. Beyond is Heddon’s Mouth, where
Old Davy landed on a memorable occasion (_Maid of Sker_, chapter liii.),
and on the road is that well-known and most quaint and attractive
hostel, the Hunter’s Inn.
This, however, is to wander away from Parracombe, which is itself a
quaint old village, while Parracombe Mill, Heal, and Rowley are
picturesque hamlets. The old twelfth-century church has been abandoned,
since 1878, for ordinary uses, but it still stands--about half a mile
from the village--and the tower has been recently in part restored. And
now, with a final reminder of East Bodley and Barton and Kinwelton (in
Martinhoe parish), our pilgrimage has reached its goal. In a few moments
we shall be tumbling downhill along the surprising curves of the Lynton
railway, to re-enter the world of commonplace.
NOTES
I. Mr Arthur Smyth believes that the founder of the Quartly herd was Mr
Henry Quartly, who married Betty Blackmore. His mother often visited her
uncle Quartly, and he tells us that he had heard her speak of the care
and attention they received, and how fat they were. They were brought to
perfection by his son, Mr James Quartly, of West Molland House, who was
one of the judges at Smithfield. Mr John Quartly of Champson never
exhibited. Mr James Quartly had no children, and on his retirement the
herd was dispersed.
* * * * *
II. Son of the before-named John Quartly, and grandson of Henry Quartly,
he had never exhibited, but kept up the reputation of the family as
breeders.
A sister of John and James Quartly married her cousin, the Rev. Richard
Blackmore, of Charles, and another sister married Captain William
Dovell, to whom at one time the novelist’s brother, Mr Turberville,
bequeathed his property. Captain Dovell’s mother was a Blackmore. To
what branch of the family she belonged is uncertain, but it was through
her that Court Barton came to the Dovells.
Mr Smyth tells an extraordinary story of this gentleman.
“Captain Dovell,” he says, “was born at Killiton. He hated farming, and
at last his family gave him his desire and he went to sea. He related a
story of his wreck off the coast of Ireland, and how the natives fought
for the wreckage. At last, as captain of an East Indiaman (his own), he
took his wife and son, a boy of eight years, with him to sea. The vessel
was wrecked. He never saw the boy, but he caught his wife and swam for
hours; she died in his arms from exposure. He got ashore at last, and
had to read the burial service over his wife. He was never the same
after that. When I knew him in the early sixties, he was a powerfully
built man of the kindliest disposition. I was an invalid then, and he
would sit with me for hours relating stories of his boyish scrapes or
playing for hours. He married again, and settled at Barnstaple, where he
died about twenty years ago. His wife survived him only about one week;
both are buried in the family vault at Parracombe churchyard.”
INDEX
Acland, family of, 166, 181, 252
Lady Harriet, 100-2
Major John Dyke, 99-102
Sir Thomas (9th baronet), 99
the “Old” Sir Thomas, 181-2
Albans (or Albyns), family of, 277
Alva, the Duke of, 168
Anderson, Prebendary, 111
“Arlington Jack,” 244
Ashford, 241
Ayshford, Dr, 29
Babb, John, 152, 156
Badcock, Mr, 213
Bagworthy, 141, 157-8
Water, 163
Baker, usurper, 30
Bament, Mr, 242, 243
Bampfylde, Amias, 221
family of, 221-2
John, 221
Sir Coplestone, 221
Sir Robert, 221
Bampton, 77-8
Castle, 80
Down, 102
Fair, 83-4
Mote, 80-1
Banks, Sir Joseph, 131
Barbrook, Mill, 164
Barham, 164
Barle, river, 108, 110, 125
Barlynch Priory, 111-2
Barnes, Rev. William, 42
Barnstaple, 107, 155, 201, 211, 241-55
Bridge, 218, 248
Castle, 245-7
Fair, 253-5
Baron’s Down, 104
Barton, 279
Basset, Colonel, 210
Mrs, 212
Sir Roger, 210
Sir Robert, 211-2
Batherum, river, 78
Beaumont, Mistress, 211
Berry Narbor, 270
Birch, Farmer, 154
Birchdown, 90
Black Marsh, 26
Blackborough House, 47-8
quarries, 46-7
Blackdown hills, 12
Blackmore, Mr H. R., 278
Mrs R., 225
R. D., 1, 26, 49, 56, 58-60, 150, 207, 233
Rev. John, sen., 57
Blackmore, Rev. John, jun., 25, 30, 58
Rev. Richard, 58
Blake, Colonel, 192
_Blessing_, the, 247
Blind Vicar, the, 111
Blundell, Mr Peter, 49
Blundell’s School, 29, 49-60
Bodley, East, 279
Bolham, 77 _note_, 78
Bourchier, family of, 81, 85-6, 157
Bowden, 270
Bradfield, 6-8
Brannock, St, 257, 258
Braunton, 256-9
Brembridge, Mr “Dick,” 243
Brendon, 150, 154, 157, 164
Forge, 114
Two Gates, 124, 141
Brickhouse, 78
Bridgeball, 154, 164
Britons, 83
Briwere (or Bruere), Lord, 39
Broadhembury, 38, 44
Broomstreet Farm, 160
Brown, Mr, chemist, 202
Browne, Miss Ida, 146, 148, 158, 180
Bryan, Mr, 233
Bude Light, the, 30
Bulmer, Sir Beavois, 272
Burgess, murderer, 123
Burrington, 212
Bury Hill, 104
Bushell, mineralogist, 273
Byam, Henry, 180-1
Canonsleigh Abbey, 34-7
Carew, Bampfylde Moore, 77, 205
Sir Thomas, 71
Castle Hill, 212-3
Rock, 152, 173
Chains, the, 139
Chambercombe, 265-9
Chanter, Misses, 158
Miss Gratiana, 151, 164
Mr J. R., 153
Rev. J. F., 147, 149, 151, 158
Chapel, Earl of Devonshire’s, 63, 66
Chapman Barrows, 278
Chapple, parish clerk, 209
Charles, village, 225
II., 193, 205
Cheribridge, 164
Cheriton, 142
Fitzpaine, 67, 69
Cheritons, the, 229-30
Chichester, Madame, 250
Moll, 250
Sir John, 245
Sir John Palmer, 244
Chilcott’s School, 71
Chittlehampton Tower, 204
Chorley, Mr W. L., 159
“Chowne, Parson,” 229-44
Cistercians, 39
Clark, Mr G. T., 193
Clayhidon, 23, 24, 25
Clerk Channing, 19
Cloutsham Ball, 140
Cloven Rocks, 124-5
Cogan, John, 40-1
Coleridge, 62
Collier, Messrs John and James, 33
Combe, 91, 92, 93, 95, 96, 99
Combehead, 89, 90
Combmartin, 271-5
Comer’s Gate, 108, 109
Cooper, Mr, 143, 170, 276
Corelli, Miss Marie, 271
Cosway, Mr George, 74
Richard, miniaturist, 74
Court Down, 108
Hall, 222
House, 222
Leet and Baron, 216, 224
Courtenay, family of, 66-7
Henry, 69
Lady Katherine, 64
Sir Thomas, 64
Cow (or Cae) Castle, 125-8
Cowell, Dr, 152
Cove Cliff, 78
Cox, Rev. Edward, 182
Cranstoun-Adams, Col., 58
Culmstock, 1, 12-32
Beacon, 12, 26
bells, 33
men at Waterloo, 27-9
Vicarage, 33-4
Cutcliffe, Mr Charles, 250, 261
_Daily Chronicle_, the, 149
Davy, Rev. Bartholomew, 85, 87
Deadman’s Pill, 224
Deer Park, 158
Devil’s Cheese-ring, 173
Dickinson, Dr, 47
Dobbs, Mr, 220, 224
Doble, Mr William, 26
Doddington, Sir Francis, 264-5
Dongola horses, 131, 132
Doone Castle, 142, 143-4, 158
Valley, 142, 157
_Doones of Exmoor_, 146
Doones’ Path, 158
Drake, Sir Francis, 247
Drewe, Edward, 44
Dulverton, 89-106, 107, 201
Dunkery Beacon, 197-9
Dunkeswell, 37, 38
Dunkeswell Abbey, 38-41
Common, 44-5
Dunster, 187-96
Castle, 188, 190, 191, 193-4
Church, 196
Conegar Tower, 194
Lower Marsh, 196
Luttrell Arms, 194-5
“Nunnery,” 195
Yarn Market, 194
Dyke, family of, 99
Captain William, 97
Dr Thomas, 97
Ebrington, Lord, 123
Egremont, Lord, 47
Elworthy, Mr F. T., 34
Exe, river, 78, 79, 103, 141
Exebridge, 91, 219
Exeter Cathedral, 54
“Exeter” Inn, 78
Exford, 91, 112-21
Exmoor bogs, 139
hills, 139-40
Faggus, Tom, 77 _note_, 121, 217-21
Farley, 142, 154
Water, 164
Fellowes, Hon. Newton, 233
Foreland, Countisbury, 184
Fortescue, family of, 213-5
Hon. John, 244
Lord, of Credan, 214-5
Mr, 183
Fox Brothers, Messrs, 25
Dr, 47
Mrs, 30
Foxden, 30
Fowell, Elizabeth, 37
Fremington Pill, 241
Froude, Rev. John, 229-40
Gaddon, 10
Gaunt, John o’, 211
_Galleon Dudley_, the, 247
Gallon House (Red Deer), 122, 123
Garnsey, Mary, 10-11
“George” Hotel, the, 202-4
Giffard, Col. John, 71
Roger (_a_), 70
Roger (_b_), 71
Court, 70
Gilbert, Adrian, 272
Dr, 202
Gipsies, 84
Glass, John and Betty, 114-9
Glenthorne, 144, 184
Glossop, Captain, 210
_God Save Her_, the, 247
Gould, F. Carruthers, 244
Mr R. D., 244
Rev. Robert, 182-3
Grabhurst Hill, 197
Granny’s Pit, 108
Graves, Admiral, 43
Greenaleigh, 184
Greenway, John and Joan, 62
Greenway’s Almshouses, 61, 64
Chapels, 63-4
Groves, Hugh, 205
_Guide to Lynton_, 143, 170
Hackpen, 30
Hagdon Hill, 30, 40
Halliday, Rev. W. S., 144
Halwell Castle, 278
Hancock, Prebendary, 172
Harding, Colonel, 65
Dr John, 270
Harris, Mr John, 261, 262
Hartland, 264, 271
Hawkbridge, 110
Heal, 278
Heanton Court, 211, 256
Heathcoat, Mr, 73
Heddon, river, 278
Heddon’s mouth, 278
Hele, 265
Hellings, Mr, 25
Hembury Fort, 42
Hemyock, 2, 4, 14, 26
Henry, Mr S., 2
“Hermitage,” the, 213
High Bray, 225, 241
Cross, 89
Hingeston-Randolph, Prebendary, 35
_History of Porlock Church_, 180
_History of Selworthy_, 172
_History of Tiverton_, 72, 75-6
Hoar Oak, 164, 165
Hoccombe, 157, 158
Hollam Lane, 108
Holnicote, 181
Honeymead, 124
Hook, Prebendary, 180
House of St George, 172
Houston, Dr, 74
Huckaback, Reuben, 104, 123
Hurley, Mr Richard, 10
Huxtable, Anthony, 120
Ilfracombe, 263, 264
Illford Bridges, 154, 164
“Ironing Box,” the, 56
Irwin, Miss Anne, 275
Jakes, Sergeant, 25, 26
James I., 212
Jewel, Bishop, 270
_John of Braunton_, the, 247
Johnson, Ursula, 152
Karslake, Mr, 237
Kelso, Mr, 25
Kenilworth, 225
Kennels, 119-20
Kennsford Water, 129
Kentisbeare, 48
Kibsworthy, 171
King, Rev. Mr, 209
Kingdon, Mr J. A., 207
Kinwelton, 279
Knight, Mr F. W. (Sir Frederick), 115, 123, 133, 135, 141
Knight, Mr John, 124, 130, 131, 132
Knightshayes, 78
Knowstone, 229
Lady Harriet’s Drive, 100, 102
Lancombe, 163
Landacre Bridge, 128
Landkey, 252-3
Lee Abbey, 170
_Legends of Devon_, 172
Leigh Court, 9
_Leisure Hour_, the, 150
Leland, 209, 246
_Leonard of Dunster_, the, 188
Lidcote Hall, 225
Lock, Mr, of Lynmouth, 136
_London Magazine_, the, 172, 213
_Lorna Doone_, 1, 34, 49, 52, 58, 71, 77 _note_, 87,
89 _note_, 110, 114, 123, 125, 129, 137, 142, 145,
150, 152, 154, 158, 160, 162, 163, 164, 166, 167,
171, 173, 174, 177, 181, 185 _note_, 189, 201,
202, 207, 256, 273
Lowman, river, 52
Lucas de Heree, 192
Luttrell, Mr G. F., 190, 193
Lady Catherine, 188, 190
Lady Elizabeth, 190
James, 190-1
Luttrell, Sir Hugh, 188, 190
Sir John, 192
Thomas, 192
Lyn, East, 142, 162, 163, 164
West, 142, 162, 163, 164
Lynbridge, 164
Lynmouth, 162, 166
Henry de, 166
Lynton, 174-5, 201
Madam Gaddy, 91
Thorold, 91
_Maid of Sker_, the, 176, 201, 212, 216 _note_, 228,
229, 241, 243, 256, 259, 260, 261, 264, 277, 278
Maidendown, 20
Malmsmead, 163
Manley, Richard, 206
Manors, 90
Martin, Sir Richard, 272
Martinhoe, 275, 279
Mary de Redvers, 66
Matilda de Clare, 37
Tablere, 36
Maxwell-Lyte, Sir H. C., 193
_Mayflower_, the, 247
Meldrum, Mother, 110, 153, 173
_Mighty Atom_, the, 271
Mills, John, 207
Millslade, 163
Milton, “Joe,” 129
Minehead, 107, 184-7
“Minehead Turnpike,” the, 199-200
Mohun, Reginald de, 189
the, 188-90
Molland, 227-9
Morley, Lady, 223
Moridunum, 42
Morte Point, 262-3
Stone, 262-3
Morthoe, 263
Church, 260
Mount Sydenham, 107
Mountsey Castle, 109
Hill Gate, 108
Mundy, Rev. Matthew, 152, 153
Murray, Dr, 109
Narnton Court, 211, 256
Norman, Aggie, 152
Northmolton, 216-25
Nymet Roland, 229-30
“Nympton-in-the-Moors,” 228-9
Oare, 87, 154, 157, 158
Church, 160-1
Old Cop, 53
Oliver, Dr, 34
Owen, Rev. D. M., 56
Page, Mr J. W., 160, 278
Palmerston, Lord, 75
Paramore, Master, 207
Parracombe, 277
Common, 278
Mill, 278
Parker, family of, 222-3
Parminter, Mr J., 242, 243
Passmore, Mrs, 223
Peirson, Rev. E., 113
Penhill, 241
Penniloe, Parson, 13, 30
Penruddock, John, 205
Perliton, 1
Perlycombe, 2
Perlycross, 1
_Perlycross_, 14, 19, 20, 22, 23, 47
Phœnicians, the, 136, 140
Pickard-Cambridge, Rev. E., 58
Pinkery Pond, 91
Pitsworthy, 114
Pixies, 127-8
Pixton, 90, 92, 99-100, 102
Plympton Priory, 36
Pococke, Dr, 173
Poltimore, Lord, 222
Ponies, Exmoor, 108
Porlock, 178, 179, 219
Marsh, 183
Weir, 179, 180
Potter, Mr, 22
Prayway Meads, 141
Prescott, 113
Prince’s Worthies, 210, 221
_Prudence_, the, 247
Pumpington, 26, 30
Quartlys, the, 227-8
Queen Anne’s Walk, 247-8
Quivil, Bishop, 36
Radford, Nicholas, 67-70
Rev. John, 229, 232-3
Rambone, Parson, 242
Rapparee Cove, 264
Raven, Canon, 42
Red Stone, 122
Reid, Mr Stuart J., 50
Rhys, Professor, 109
Ridd, family of, 160, 180
John, 54, 56, 75, 77, 78, 87, 160
Ripperda, Duke of, 261-2
Risdon, 251
Robsart, Amy, 225
Rock, 78
Mr W. F., 245
“Rock of Ages,” 44
Russell, Rev. John, 233, 270
Sampford Peverell, 34
Saunton Sands, 257, 259-60
Sayer, Thomas, 99
Scott, Sir Gilbert, 251
Sir Walter, 225, 237
Seaton, 23
Semson, 33
Seven Brethren Bank, 249
Sherwill, 211
Ship Inn, 179
_Short History of the Original Doones_, 146
Showlsborough Castle, 158
Shuttern, river, 83
Simcoe, General, 44-5
Simonsbath, 107, 124, 137
Slader, Mr Richard, 226-7
Snell, Canon, 54-5
Mr W. H., 55
“Robin,” 54
Snows, the, 159, 160
Southey, Robert, 162, 173, 179
Southey’s Corner, 179
Spire Cross, 108, 109
Squier, Hugh, 206
Stapledon, Bishop, 37
Stickles, Jeremy, 128, 163, 185, 202
Stow, 247
_Survey of Devon_, Risdon’s, 165
Sydenham, family of, 91-99
Humphry, 93
Major Sir George, 93-9
Sylvesters, the, 41
Talbot, Sir Gilbert, 71
_Tales from the Telling House_, 1, 30
Taunton Pool, 52
Taw, river, 211, 212, 248-9
Tawstock Church, 250-2
Court, 250
Templar, Mr George, 239
Temple, Archbishop, 25, 29, 49
Tennyson, 102-4
Thompson, Rev. W. C., 48
Thornton, Rev. W. H., 123, 183
_Tiger_, the, 247
Tinker Toogood, 17
Tiverton, 61-76, 77
Castle, 70-1
Toplady, Augustus, 44
Torr Steps, 103, 109-10
Tracy, family of, 260, 261
William de, 260
Treadwin, Mrs, 223
_Treatise of the Soul of Man_, 97
Trentishoe, 278
Tugwell, Rev. G., 135
Uffculme, 2, 3
Church, 9
Umberleigh, 211
Upottery, 23
Valley of Rocks, 170, 172-4
Vancouver, Mr, 19, 20
Wade, Major, 152, 154-7, 265
Mr Z. E. A., 258, 259
Wagstaffe, Sir Joseph, 205
Waldron, John, 6
Sir Thomas, 6
Walrond, family of, 6
Sir John, 7
Wambarrows, 109
_Wanderings in North Devon_, 151
Warre, Dr, 104
Warren, the, 144
Washfield, 78
Watchet, 200 _note_
Watersmeet, 164
Weir Water, 158
Welcomb, 265
Wellington, Duke of, 26, 33
Westcote, 164, 248, 259, 271
_Western Antiquary_, the, 153
Westleigh Quarries, 35
Westmill, 113
Wheal Eliza, 123
“White Horse,” the, 75
White Water, 125
Whitechapel, 209-10, 211
Wichehalse, family of, 152, 156, 167-71
Hugh, 170, 171
Windwhistle Lane, 78
Winsford, 111, 112
Hill, 108, 109, 131
Withypool, 129
Wizard’s Slough, 125
Wolford Lodge, 45
Wood, Mr William, 9
Mr W. T., 9
Woody Bay, 170
Woolacombe Sands, 261-2
Woolhanger, 164
Wrey, Sir Bourchier, 155, 156
Wyott, Philip, 246, 247
Yenworthy, 144
Yonge, Walter, 81
PRINTED BY OLIVER AND BOYD, EDINBURGH.
[Illustration: _The_ BLACKMORE _Country_
_Published by A. & C. Black, Soho Square, London._]
* * * * *
A SERIES OF BEAUTIFUL BOOKS IN COLOUR
BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN
_LARGE SQUARE DEMY 8vo, BOARDS, WITH PICTURE IN COLOUR ON THE COVER_
EACH CONTAINING 12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
PRICE =1/6= NET EACH
(_By Post 1/10_) (_By Post 1/10_)
_VOLUMES IN THE SERIES_:
CANTERBURY
CAMBRIDGE
THE CHANNEL ISLANDS
THE FIRTH OF CLYDE
THE ENGLISH LAKES
THE ISLE OF MAN
THE ISLE OF WIGHT
OXFORD
STRATFORD-ON-AVON, LEAMINGTON AND WARWICK
THE THAMES
THE TROSSACHS
NORTH WALES
WESSEX
WINDSOR AND ETON
AND, UNIFORM WITH THE ABOVE
THE ROMANCE OF LONDON
NOTE
This is a new series of colour-books produced at a popular price, and
they are the most inexpensive books of this character which have ever
been produced. They therefore make a significant epoch in
colour-printing, _bringing for the first time a high-class colour-book
within the reach of all_. The illustrations are by well-known artists,
and their work has been reproduced with the greatest accuracy, while the
printing reaches an exceedingly high level which will satisfy the most
exacting reader. The authors have been selected with great care, and are
well known for the charm of their style and the accuracy of their
information. Among them may be mentioned Mr Joseph E. Morris, B.A., Mr
C. G. Harper, Miss G. E. Mitton, Mr Gordon Home, Mr Dixon Scott, and Mr
T. H. Manners Howe.
PUBLISHED BY
ADAM & CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
* * * * *
BRUSH, PEN AND PENCIL SERIES
EDITED BY A. E. JOHNSON
_VOLUMES READY_
_SQUARE_ EACH =3/6= NET _BOUND_
_DEMY 8VO_ _IN CLOTH_
(_By Post 3/10_)
_JOHN HASSALL_, R.I.
Containing 50 examples of the artist’s work in Brush, Pen and Pencil--7
being in Colour.
“Ought to meet with a very warm welcome.”--_Standard._
“Of every phase of Mr Hassall’s art the author of this charmingly
illustrated brochure writes with knowledge and sympathy.”--_Glasgow
Herald._
_FRANK REYNOLDS_, R.I.
Containing 46 examples of the artist’s work in Brush, Pen and Pencil--4
being in Colour.
“A clear account of a clever contemporary artist, and the
illustrations will afford perennial joy to the
possessors.”--_Manchester Courier._
“A happy idea.”--_Daily Graphic._
_TOM BROWNE_, R.B.A., R.I.
Containing 57 examples of the artist’s work in Brush, Pen and Pencil--8
being in Colour.
“Brightly and lightly put together, and aptly repeats the success
of the two previous volumes of the same series.”--_Scotsman._
“These little books, if they are all as good as the first, should
have a very large sale. The finished water-colour, in company with
the line drawing, gives a pleasing and distinctive variety to the
pages of the book, and incidentally reveals Tom Browne as an artist
of wider power than many of his admirers gave him credit
for.”--_Fine Art Trades Journal._
_DUDLEY HARDY_, R.I., R.M.S.
Containing 50 examples of the artist’s work in Brush, Pen and Pencil--8
being in Colour.
“It is an excellent and bright little work, like its brethren in
the series, and supplies many excellent plates illustrative of the
artist’s work alike in line, monochrome, and colour. The critical
text is well written and discriminative, and is pleasant and
interesting reading.”--_The Guardian._
“We look upon this series of art-monographs as one of the most
interesting and attractive of all the efforts that have recently
been made in the same direction.”--_Westminster Gazette._
_LAWSON WOOD_
Containing 56 examples of the artist’s work in Brush, Pen and Pencil--8
being in Colour.
“A delightful number of an exceedingly interesting series.... The
critical appreciation furnished by the writer is exceedingly
readable and to the point.”--_Guardian._
“It is, in short, a very interesting little work in every sense of
the word, and anybody may read it with pleasure.”--_The Queen._
PUBLISHED BY
ADAM & CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
* * * * *
BLACK’S
HOME GUIDE BOOKS
BATH AND BRISTOL. 6d. net.
BELFAST AND THE NORTH OF IRELAND. 1s. net.
BOURNEMOUTH. 6d. net.
BRIGHTON AND ENVIRONS. 6d. net.
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 1s. net.
BUXTON AND THE PEAK COUNTRY. 1s. net.
CANTERBURY AND EAST KENT. 1s. net.
CHANNEL ISLANDS. 1s. net. Cloth, with extra Maps, 2s. 6d. net.
CORNWALL AND SCILLY ISLANDS. 2s. 6d. net.
DERBYSHIRE. 2s. 6d. net.
DEVONSHIRE. 2s. 6d. net.
DORSETSHIRE. 2s. 6d. net.
DUBLIN AND THE EAST OF IRELAND. 1s. net.
EDINBURGH. 6d. net.
ENGLISH LAKES. 3s. 6d. net.
ENGLISH LAKES. Cheap Edition, 1s. net.
EXETER AND EAST DEVON. 1s. net.
GALWAY AND WEST OF IRELAND. 1s. net.
GLASGOW AND THE CLYDE. 6d. net.
GUERNSEY, HERM, SARK, AND ALDERNEY. 6d. net.
HAMPSHIRE. 2s. 6d. net.
HARROGATE. 1s. net.
ILFRACOMBE AND NORTH DEVON. 6d. net.
IRELAND. 5s. net.
IRELAND. Cheap Edition. 1s. net.
ISLE OF MAN. 1s. net.
ISLE OF WIGHT. 1s. net.
JERSEY. 6d. net.
KENT. 2s. 6d. net.
KENT, EAST (CANTERBURY, MARGATE, RAMSGATE, ETC.). 1s. net.
KENT, WEST (TUNBRIDGE WELLS, MAIDSTONE, ETC.). 1s. net.
KILLARNEY AND THE SOUTH OF IRELAND. 1s. net.
LEAMINGTON, STRATFORD, ETC., 1s. net.
LIVERPOOL AND DISTRICT. 1s. net.
LONDON AND ENVIRONS. 1s. net.
AROUND LONDON, COMPLETE. 2s. 6d. net.
AROUND LONDON, NORTH. 6d. net.
AROUND LONDON, WEST. 6d. net.
AROUND LONDON, SOUTH. 6d. net.
MANCHESTER AND SALFORD. 1s. net.
MARGATE AND THE EAST OF KENT. 1s. net.
MATLOCK (DOVEDALE AND CENTRAL DERBYSHIRE). 1s. net.
MOFFAT. 1s. net.
PLYMOUTH AND SOUTH DEVON. 1s. net.
SCOTLAND. 7s. 6d. net.
SCOTLAND. Cheap Edition. 1s. net.
SCOTLAND, EAST CENTRAL. 2s. 6d. net.
SCOTLAND, NORTH. 2s. 6d. net.
SCOTLAND, WEST AND SOUTH-WEST. 2s. 6d. net.
SCOTLAND, SOUTH-EAST. 2s. 6d. net.
SHERWOOD FOREST AND THE DUKERIES. 6d. net.
SOMERSET. 2s. 6d. net.
SURREY. 2s. 6d. net.
SUSSEX. 2s. 6d. net.
TORQUAY AND THE SOUTH HAMS. 6d. net.
TROSSACHS AND LOCH LOMOND. 1s. net.
TUNBRIDGE WELLS AND WEST KENT. 1s. net.
WALES, NORTH. 3s. 6d. net.
WALES, SOUTH. 3s. 6d. net.
WALES. Cheap Edition. 1s. net.
WHAT TO SEE IN ENGLAND. Illustrated. 2s. 6d. net.
WYE, THE. 1s. net.
_A full List of Black’s Home and Foreign Guide Books can be obtained on
application to the Publishers._
PUBLISHED BY
ADAM & CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
* * * * *
INDISPENSABLE TO THE INTELLIGENT TRAVELLER
GREAT BUILDINGS AND HOW TO ENJOY THEM
A CHEAP SERIES OF GUIDES TO THE INTELLIGENT APPRECIATION OF ARCHITECTURE
BY E. A. BROWNE
_VOLUMES IN THE SERIES_
GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE
GREEK ARCHITECTURE
NORMAN ARCHITECTURE
ROMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE
Each volume contains an Illustrated Glossary of Architecture Terms, 48
full-page reproductions from photographs of famous Buildings, with
Historical Notes upon each, and an Introductory Text.
_SQUARE_ _BOUND_
_DEMY_ PRICE =3/6= NET EACH _IN_
_8vo_ _CLOTH_
(_By Post 3/10_)
SOME PRESS OPINIONS
“Besides being of inestimable value to the intelligent amateur, it
should appeal also to all students, for it contains in brief nearly
everything that he would have to extract for himself from more
voluminous works.... The plates alone make it worthy of a place in
every architect’s library.”--_Art and Architecture._
“We cordially commend this volume to everyone who desires to be in
a position to appreciate to the full extent the glories of Norman
architecture, of which we in this country possess so many noble
specimens.”--_Scottish Review._
“To the person who, interested in the especial beauty of great
buildings, would glean, even here at home, some eloquent idea of
what he may never actually see, no book in point of adequate notes,
of excellent illustrations, and cheapness, could well be more
useful.”--_Outlook._
“The beautiful illustrations alone make the book worthy of a place
in the library of every book-lover and student of
architecture.”--_Aberdeen Free Press._
“The introductory chapters are lucid, simple, appreciative and well
adapted to the understanding of the moderately intelligent
amateur.... The illustrations are admirably chosen, well produced,
and generally effective. The accompanying notes are clear, brief,
and to the point.”--_Guardian._
“Is written in a facile and personal style which makes it
delightful to read and easy to understand.... The illustrations are
extremely good and helpful in making doubly clear the teaching of
the chapters.”--_Bookman._
PUBLISHED BY
ADAM & CHARLES BLACK, 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Cosgate is mentioned in chapter xlviii., where the county boundary
is defined.--F. J. S.
[2] This term recurs to me almost as often as I think of moors
and commons, and for the following reason. An old friend of mine,
who lived to be nearly ninety, a lawyer by profession and a wit
by practice, once told me how he attended an inquiry held in
West Somerset by a certain Government Commission, concerning a
well-known tract adjacent to his property. To his surprise, a fussy
solicitor, who did not know that he was addressing another “limb
of the law,” rushed up to him, and after expatiating volubly on
the difference between a claim in gross, a claim appendant, and a
claim appurtenant, begged to be informed what was the nature of his
claim. “_Im_pertinent, if any,” replied my friend, delighted at the
opportunity, “as I am not here on business.”
[3] Vancouver, referring to this custom, observes: “Their day’s work
at plough or harrow is usually performed in a journey of about eight
hours, during which time the ploughboy has a peculiar mode of cheering
them on with a song he continually chaunts in low notes, suddenly
broken and rising a whole octave. The ceasing of the song is said to
occasion the stopping of the team, which is either followed by a man
holding the plough, or as occasion may require, in attending the drag
or harrows.”
[4] Here and elsewhere in the chapter these references are to
Blackmore’s local romance _Perlycross_, unless otherwise stated.
[5] Two species of furze are produced in Devonshire--the rank
luxuriant sort flourishing in the spring, and the smaller dwarf or
dale furze, which blooms in the autumn. The larger, which goes by the
name of French furze, forms considerable brakes, and is usually cut
at four years’ growth. Its crane stems used to be burnt for charcoal,
whereas the dwarf furze was cut and grubbed by farmers and labourers
for fuel.
[6] _Lorna Doone_, chapter iii.
[7] This is, of course, assuming that they did not take the turning to
Bolham. By an apparent anachronism, Blackmore talks of “the village
of Bolham on the Bampton Road” (_Lorna Doone_, chapter lx.) as the
place where the ladies’ coach was stopped by Faggus. There was no
_coach_-road passing through Bolham at that date.
[8] Perhaps a more likely explanation is that it was a Norman motte,
specimens of which are to be found not only in England, but in
France, and which is depicted in several scenes of the Bayeux. These
earthworks are usually planted not on hill-tops, but on low sites in
or near villages, and not far from a church.
[9] This story, repeated in directories and guide-books for
generations, receives short shrift from Mr R. N. Worth. “It has been
claimed as the Beamdune where Kynegils defeated the Britons in 614,
but that was Bampton in Oxfordshire” (_History of Devonshire_, p. 98).
_Sic transit gloria mundi._
[10] “And truly, the Dulverton people said that he was the richest man
in their town, and could buy up half of the county armigers” (_Lorna
Doone_, chapter xiii.). Some of the local “armigers” figure in the
following pages.
[11] It may be worth mentioning that an incident similar to that which
marred the happiness of Susan Sydenham occurred in the life of the
celebrated John Donne. In 1610, on the third day after his arrival at
Paris, he was left alone in a room where he had been dining with Sir
Robert Drury and others. Half an hour later the knight returned, and
was surprised to find him in a curious sort of ecstasy. At first he
was unable to speak, but after a time he declared--
“I have seen a dreadful vision since I saw you. I have seen my dear
wife pass twice by me through this room, with her hair hanging about
her shoulders, and a dead child in her arms.”
Sir Robert suggested that it was nothing but a dream, which he advised
him to forget, but Donne replied, “I cannot be surer that I am now
living than that I have not slept since I saw you, and I am so sure
that at her second appearance she stopped, looked me in the face and
vanished.”
As he seemed so certain, a messenger was sent to Drury House, who
brought back the news that he had found Mrs Donne ill in bed, after
the birth of a dead infant--an event which had happened on the very
day and hour that her husband had seen the vision.
[12] In chapter iii. of _Lorna Doone_, Blackmore speaks of Dulverton
as a town near which “the Exe and his big brother Barle have union.”
[13] A Dulverton farmer once remarked to me on the great size of
Exmoor farmhouses, saying that it would be possible to put into one of
them two or three average homesteads.
[14] According to one writer, that mighty hunter, Katerfelto, earned
huge glory both for himself and for his owner, a lusty farmer, by
taking the bit between his teeth on the Barkham Hills, and carrying
him bodily over a twenty-foot gap in an old Roman iron-mine.
[15] The original of “Red Rube” in Melville’s _Katerfelto_.
[16] Subject to variation, _e.g._, “children.”
[17] _Lorna Doone_, chapters ix., xlviii.
[18] Blackmore refers to the subject in _Lorna Doone_, chapter xxxix.
Speaking of Jeremy Stickles, he says that “his duty was first and
most ostensibly to see to the levying of poundage in the little haven
of Lynmouth and further up the coast, which was now becoming a place
of resort for the folk whom we call smugglers, that is to say, who
land their goods without regard to the King’s revenue, as by law
established. And indeed there had been no officer appointed to take
toll, until one had been sent to Minehead, not so very long before”
(see also _Lorna Doone_, chapter xii.).
[19] These worthies are coupled by Blackmore in the _Maid of Sker_
(chapter lxviii.). “Since Tom Faggus died, there has not been such a
man to be found, nowhere round these parts.”
[20] See Note I., p. 280.
[21] See Note II., p. 280.
[22] True, in chapter liii. Blackmore speaks of the place as five or
six leagues distant from Heddon’s Mouth; still, Chowne’s frequent
appearances at Barnstaple and beyond, and such indications as the fate
of the Sherwill girl (chapter xlvii.), produce the opposite impression.
[23] Groats.
[24] The Devil.
Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:
the neighbournood in connection=> the neighbourhood in connection {pg
241}