THE NORTH-EAST PARTY.
"_June 27._--M'Gary and Bonsall are back with Hickey and Riley. They
arrived last evening: all well, except that the snow has affected their
eyesight badly, owing to the scorbutic condition of their systems. Mr
M'Gary is entirely blind, and I fear will be found slow to cure. They
have done admirably. They bring back a continued series of observations,
perfectly well kept up, for the further authentication of our survey,
and their results correspond entirely with those of Mr Sontag and
myself. They are connected, too, with the station at Chimney Rock, Cape
Thackeray, which we have established by theodolite. I may be satisfied
now with our projection of the Greenland coast. The different localities
to the south have been referred to the position of our winter harbour,
and this has been definitely fixed by the labours of Mr Sontag, our
astronomer. We have, therefore, not only a reliable base, but a set of
primary triangulations, which, though limited, may support the minor
field-work of our sextants.
"M'Gary and Bonsall left the brig on the 3d, and reached the Great
Glacier on the 15th, after only twelve days of travel. They showed great
judgment in passing the bays; and, although impeded by the heavy snows,
would have been able to remain much longer in the field, but for the
destruction of our provision-depôts by the bears.
[Sidenote: Shooting a Bear]
"This is evidently the season when the bears are in most abundance. Their
tracks were everywhere, both on shore and upon the floes. One of them had
the audacity to attempt intruding itself upon the party during one of
their halts upon the ice; and Bonsall tells a good story of the manner
in which they received and returned his salutations. It was about half
an hour after midnight, and they were all sleeping away a long day's
fatigue, when M'Gary either heard or felt, he could hardly tell which,
something that was scratching at the snow immediately by his head. It
waked him just enough to allow him to recognise a huge animal actively
engaged in reconnoitring the circuit of the tent. His startled outcry
aroused his companion inmates, but without in any degree disturbing
the unwelcome visitor; specially unwelcome at that time and place, for
all the guns had been left on the sledge, a little distance off, and
there was not so much as a walking-pole inside. There was, of course,
something of natural confusion in the little council of war. The first
impulse was to make a rush for the arms; but this was soon decided to be
very doubtfully practicable, if at all; for the bear, having satisfied
himself with his observations of the exterior, now presented himself at
the tent-opening. Sundry volleys of lucifer matches and some impromptu
torches of newspaper were fired without alarming him, and, after a little
while, he planted himself at the doorway and began making his supper upon
the carcass of a seal which had been shot the day before.
"Tom Hickey was the first to bethink him of the military device of a
sortie from the postern, and, cutting a hole with his knife, crawled out
at the rear of the tent. Here he extricated a boat-hook, that formed one
of the supporters of the ridge-pole, and made it the instrument of a
right valorous attack. A blow well administered on the nose caused the
animal to retreat for the moment a few paces beyond the sledge, and Tom,
calculating his distance nicely, sprang forward, seized a rifle, and fell
back in safety upon his comrades. In a few seconds more, Mr Bonsall had
sent a ball through and through the body of his enemy. I was assured that
after this adventure the party adhered to the custom I had enjoined, of
keeping at all times a watch and fire-arms inside the camping-tent.
[Sidenote: Ravages of the Bears]
"The final _cache_, which I relied so much upon, was entirely destroyed.
It had been built, with extreme care, of rocks which had been assembled
by very heavy labour, and adjusted with much aid often from capstan-bars
as levers. The entire construction was, so far as our means permitted,
most effective and resisting. Yet these tigers of the ice seemed to have
scarcely encountered an obstacle. Not a morsel of pemmican remained
except in the iron cases, which, being round with conical ends, defied
both claw and teeth. They had rolled and pawed them in every direction,
tossing them about like foot-balls, although over eighty pounds in
weight. An alcohol-case, strongly iron-bound, was dashed into small
fragments, and a tin can of liquor mashed and twisted almost into a ball.
The claws of the beast had perforated the metal, and torn it up as with a
cold chisel.
"They were too dainty for salt-meats: ground coffee they had an evident
relish for: old canvas was a favourite for some reason or other; even our
flag, which had been reared 'to take possession' of the waste, was gnawed
down to the very staff. They had made a regular frolic of it; rolling our
bread-barrels over the ice-foot and into the broken outside ice; and,
unable to masticate our heavy India-rubber cloth, they had tied it up in
unimaginable hard knots.
"M'Gary describes the whole area around the _cache_ as marked by the
well-worn paths of these animals; and an adjacent slope of ice-covered
rock, with an angle of 45°, was so worn and covered with their hair, as
to suggest the idea that they had been amusing themselves by sliding down
it on their haunches--a performance, by the way, in which I afterward
caught them myself.
"_June 28._--Hans came up with the party on the 17th. Morton and he are
still out. They took a day's rest; and then, 'following the old tracks,'
as M'Gary reports, 'till they were clear of the cracks near the islands,
pushed northward at double-quick time. When last seen, they both of them
walking, for the snow was too soft and deep for them to ride with their
heavy load.' Fine weather, but the ice yields reluctantly."
While thus watching the indications of advancing summer, my mind turned
anxiously to the continued absence of Morton and Hans. We were already
beyond the season when travel upon the ice was considered practicable
by our English predecessors in Wellington Channel, and, in spite of the
continued solidity around us, it was unsafe to presume too much upon our
high northern position.
It was, therefore, with no slight joy that on the evening of the 10th,
while walking with Mr Bonsall, a distant sound of dogs caught my ear.
These faithful servants generally bayed their full-mouthed welcome from
afar off, but they always dashed in with a wild speed which made their
outcry a direct precursor of their arrival. Not so these well-worn
travellers. Hans and Morton staggered beside the limping dogs, and poor
Jenny was riding as a passenger upon the sledge. It was many hours before
they shared the rest and comfort of our ship.
Mr Morton left the brig with the relief party of M'Gary on the 4th of
June. He took his place at the track-lines like the others; but he was
ordered to avoid all extra labour, so as to husband his strength for the
final passage of the ice.
On the 15th he reached the base of the Great Glacier, and on the 16th was
joined by Hans with the dogs. A single day was given to feed and refresh
the animals, and on the 18th the two companies parted. Morton's account
I give as nearly as possible in his own words, without affecting any
modification of his style.
[Sidenote: Morton's Journey]
The party left Cache Island at 12.35 A.M., crossing the
land-ices by portage, and going south for about a mile to avoid a couple
of bad seams caused by the breakage of the glacier. Here Morton and Hans
separated from the land-party, and went northward, keeping parallel with
the glacier, and from five to seven miles distant. The ice was free from
hummocks, but heavily covered with snow, through which they walked knee
deep. They camped about eight miles from the glacier.
They started again at half-past nine. The ice at first was very heavy,
and they were frequently over their knees in the dry snow; but, after
crossing certain drifts, it became hard enough to bear the sledge, and
the dogs made four miles an hour until twenty minutes past four, when
they reached the middle of Peabody Bay. They then found themselves
among the bergs which on former occasions had prevented other parties
from getting through. These were generally very high, evidently newly
separated from the glacier.
It took them a long while to get through into smoother ice. A tolerably
wide passage would appear between two bergs, which they would gladly
follow; then a narrower one; then no opening in front, but one to the
side. Following that a little distance, a blank ice-cliff would close the
way altogether, and they were forced to retrace their steps and begin
again. Constantly baffled, but, like true fellows, determined to "go
ahead," they at last found a lane some six miles to the west, which led
upon their right course. But they were from eight o'clock at night till
two or three the next morning, puzzling their way out of the maze, like a
blind man in the streets of a strange city.
_June 19._--At 8.45 A.M. they encamped. Again starting, they
went on for ten miles, but were then arrested by wide seams in the ice,
bergs, and much broken ice; so they turned about, and reached their last
camp by twelve, midnight. They then went westward, and, after several
trials, made a way, the dogs running well. It took them but two hours to
reach the better ice, for the bergs were in a narrow belt.
They were now nearly abreast of the termination of the Great Glacier. It
was mixed with earth and rocks. The snow sloped from the land to the ice,
and the two seemed to be mingled together for eight or ten miles to the
north, when the land became solid, and the glacier was lost. The height
of this land seemed about 400 feet, and the glacier lower.
_June 21._--They stood to the north at 11.30 P.M., and made for
what Morton thought a cape, seeing a vacancy between it and the West
Land. The ice was good, even, and free from bergs, only two or three
being in sight. The atmosphere became thick and misty, and the west
shore, which they saw faintly on Tuesday, was not visible. They could
only see the cape for which they steered. The cold was sensibly felt, a
very cutting wind blowing north-east by north. They reached the opening
seen to the westward of the cape by Thursday, 7 A.M. It proved
to be a channel; for, as they moved on in the misty weather, a sudden
lifting of the fog showed them the cape and the western shore.
The ice was weak and rotten, and the dogs began to tremble. Proceeding at
a brisk rate, they had got upon unsafe ice before they were aware of it.
Their course was at the time nearly up the middle of the channel; but,
as soon as possible, they turned, and, by a backward circuit, reached
the shore. The dogs, as their fashion is, at first lay down and refused
to proceed, trembling violently. The only way to induce the terrified,
obstinate brutes to get on was for Hans to go to a white-looking spot
where the ice was thicker, the soft stuff looking dark; then, calling the
dogs coaxingly by name, they would crawl to him on their bellies. So they
retreated from place to place, until they reached the firm ice they had
quitted. A half-mile brought them to comparatively safe ice, a mile more
to good ice again.
In the midst of this danger they had during the liftings of the fog
sighted open water, and they now saw it plainly. There was no wind
stirring, and its face was perfectly smooth. It was two miles further up
the channel than the firm ice to which they had retreated. Hans could
hardly believe it. But for the birds that were seen in great numbers,
Morton says he would not have believed it himself.
The ice covered the mouth of the channel like a horse-shoe. One end
lapped into the west side a considerable distance up the channel, the
other covered the cape for about a mile and a half, so that they could
not land opposite their camp, which was about a mile and a half from the
cape.
[Sidenote: The Ice-foot]
That night they succeeded in climbing on to the level by the floe-pieces,
and walked around the turn of the cape for some distance, leaving their
dogs behind. They found a good ice-foot, very wide, which extended as far
as the cape.
They started again at 11.30 A.M. of the 21st. On reaching the
land-ice, they unloaded, and threw each package of provision from the
floe up to the ice-foot, which was eight or nine feet above them. Morton
then climbed up with the aid of the sledge, which they converted into a
ladder for the occasion. He then pulled the dogs up by the lines fastened
round their bodies, Hans lending a helping hand and then climbing up
himself. They then drew up the sledge. The water was very deep,--a stone
the size of Morton's head taking twenty eight seconds to reach the
bottom, which was seen very clearly.
As they had noticed the night before, the ice-foot lost its good
character on reaching the cape, becoming a mere narrow ledge hugging
the cliffs, and looking as if it might crumble off altogether into the
water at any moment. Morton was greatly afraid there would be no land-ice
there at all when they came back. Hans and he thought they might pass on
by climbing along the face of the crag; in fact they tried a path about
fifty feet high, but it grew so narrow that they saw they could not get
the dogs past with their sledge-load of provisions. He therefore thought
it safest to leave some food, that they might not starve on the return
in case the ice-foot should disappear. He accordingly _cached_ enough
provision to last them back, with four days' dog-meat.
At the pitch of the cape the ice-ledge was hardly three feet wide; and
they were obliged to unloose the dogs and drive them forward alone. Hans
and he then tilted the sledge up, and succeeded in carrying it past the
narrowest place. The ice-foot was firm under their tread, though it
crumbled on the verge.
They now yoked in the dogs, and set forward over the worst sort of mashed
ice for three-quarters of a mile. After passing the cape, they looked
ahead, and saw nothing but open water. After turning the cape, they found
a good smooth ice-foot in the entering curve of a bay. They came upon
glassy ice, and the dogs ran on it full speed. Here the sledge made at
least six miles an hour. It was the best day's travel they made on the
journey.
The part of the channel they were now coasting was narrower, but as they
proceeded it seemed to widen again.
To the left of this, toward the West Land, the great channel of
open water continued. There was broken ice floating in it, but with
passages fifteen miles in width and perfectly clear. The end of the
point--"Gravel Point," as Morton called it--was covered with hummocks and
broken ice for about two miles from the water. This ice was worn and full
of gravel. Six miles inland the point was flanked by mountains.
The wind blew strong from the north, and continued to do so for three
days, sometimes blowing a gale, and very damp, the tops of the hills
becoming fixed with dark foggy clouds. The damp falling mist prevented
their seeing any distance. Yet they saw no ice borne down from the
northward during all this time; and, what was more curious, they found,
on their return south, that no ice had been sent down during the gale. On
the contrary, they then found the channel perfectly clear from shore to
shore.
_June 22._--They camped at 8.30 A.M. on a ledge of low rock,
having made in the day's journey forty-eight miles in a straight line.
_June 23._--In consequence of the gale of wind they did not start till
12.30 midnight. They made about eight miles, and were arrested by the
broken ice of the shore. Their utmost efforts could not pass the sledge
over this; so they tied the dogs to it, and went ahead to see how things
looked. They found the land-ice growing worse and worse, until at last it
ceased, and the water broke directly against the steep cliffs.
[Sidenote: A Bear Hunt]
_June 23._--At 3 A.M. they started again, carrying eight pounds
of pemmican and two of bread, besides the artificial horizon, sextant,
and compass, a rifle, and the boat-hook. After two hours' walking the
travel improved, and, on nearing a plain about nine miles from where
they had left the sledge, they were rejoiced to see a she-bear and her
cub. They had tied the dogs securely, as they thought; but Toodla and
four others had broken loose and followed them, making their appearance
within an hour. They were thus able to attack the bear at once.
Hans, who to the simplicity of an Esquimaux united the shrewd observation
of a hunter, describes the contest which followed so graphically, that I
try to engraft some of the quaintness of his description upon Mr Morton's
report. The bear fled; but the little one being unable either to keep
ahead of the dogs or to keep pace with her, she turned back, and putting
her head under its haunches, threw it some distance ahead. The cub safe
for the moment, she would wheel round and face the dogs, so as to give it
a chance to run away; but it always stopped just as it alighted, till she
came up and threw it ahead again: it seemed to expect her aid, and would
not go on without it. Sometimes the mother would run a few yards ahead,
as if to coax the young one up to her, and when the dogs came up she
would turn on them and drive them back; then, as they dodged her blows,
she would rejoin the cub and push it on, sometimes putting her head under
it, some times catching it in her mouth by the nape of the neck.
For a time she managed her retreat with great celerity, leaving the
two men far in the rear. They had engaged her on the land-ice; but she
led the dogs in-shore, up a small stony valley which opened into the
interior. But, after she had gone a mile and a half, her pace slackened,
and, the little one being jaded, she soon came to a halt.
[Illustration: Far North--_Page 111._]
The men were then only half a mile behind; and, running at full speed,
they soon came up to where the dogs were holding her at bay. The fight
was now a desperate one. The mother never went more than two yards ahead,
constantly looking at the cub. When the dogs came near her, she would
sit upon her haunches and take the little one between her hind legs,
fighting the dogs with her paws, and roaring so that she could have been
heard a mile off. "Never," said Morton, "was an animal more distressed."
She would stretch her neck and snap at the nearest dog with her shining
teeth, whirling her paws like the arms of a windmill. If she missed
her aim, not daring to pursue one dog lest the others should harm the
cub, she would give a great roar of baffled rage, and go on pawing, and
snapping, and facing the ring, grinning at them with her mouth stretched
wide.
[Sidenote: Death of the Bear]
When the men came up, the little one was perhaps rested, for it was able
to turn round with her dam, no matter how quick she moved, so as to keep
always in front of her belly. The five dogs were all the time frisking
about her actively, tormenting her like so many gad-flies; indeed, they
made it difficult to lodge a bullet in her without killing them. But
Hans, lying on his elbow, took a quiet aim and shot her through the head.
She dropped and rolled over dead without moving a muscle.
The dogs sprang toward her at once; but the cub jumped upon her body and
reared up, for the first time growling hoarsely. They seemed quite afraid
of the little creature, she fought so actively and made so much noise;
and, while tearing mouthfuls of hair from the dead mother, they would
spring aside the minute the cub turned toward them. The men drove the
dogs off for a time, but were obliged to shoot the cub at last, as she
would not quit the body.
Hans fired into her head. It did not reach the brain, though it knocked
her down; but she was still able to climb on her mother's body and try
to defend it still, "her mouth bleeding like a gutter-spout." They were
obliged to despatch her with stones.
After skinning the old one they gashed its body, and the dogs fed upon
it ravenously. The little one they _cached_ for themselves on the return;
and, with difficulty taking the dogs off, pushed on, crossing a small bay
which extended from the level ground and had still some broken ice upon
it. Hans was tired out, and was sent on shore to follow the curve of the
bay, where the road was easier.
Morton tried to pass round the cape. It was in vain: there was no
ice-foot; and, trying his best to ascend the cliffs, he could get up but
a few hundred feet. Here he fastened to his walking-pole the Grinnell
flag of the Antarctic--a well-cherished little relic, which had now
followed me on two Polar voyages. This flag had been saved from the wreck
of the United States sloop-of-war _Peacock_, when she stranded off the
Columbia River; it had accompanied Commodore Wilkes in his far southern
discovery of an Antarctic continent. It was now its strange destiny to
float over the highest northern land, not only of America, but of our
globe. Side by side with this were our masonic emblems of the compass and
the square. He let them fly for an hour and a half from the black cliff
over the dark rock-shadowed waters, which rolled up and broke in white
caps at its base.
Beyond this cape all is surmise. The high ridges to the north-west
dwindled off into low blue knobs, which blended finally with the air.
Morton called the cape, which baffled his labours, after his commander;
but I have given it the more enduring name of Cape Constitution.
He was bitterly disappointed that he could not get round the cape, to see
whether there was any land beyond; but it was impossible. Rejoining Hans,
they supped off their bread and pemmican, and, after a good nap, started
on their return on the 25th, at 1.30 P.M.
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