Court-house--Bazaar--Arsenal--Police-office--Government-house--
Barracks--House of correction--Gaol--Methodist chapel--
Methodism, its rise and progress in Antigua--Moravian chapel--
Rise and progress of the Society of United Brethren--Scotch
kirk.
After the church and churchyard of St. John's, the next public
building which calls for attention is the court house. This, as
before stated, was erected in 1747, William Lowry being the
mason, and Duncan Grant the carpenter. Who these worthies were I
know not; but a glance at the court house proves they were
efficient workmen. In order to raise funds to defray the expenses
of its erection, the legislature obtained a loan of 746l. 12s.
4½d. currency, from the executors of Samuel and Thomas Watkins;
and Jonas Langford (a proprietor of Antigua, and whose estates
still go by his name) lent 1253l. 7s. 7¾d. currency, which debts
were to be paid off by levying a tax of 2s. 6d. per head upon all
slaves in the island for six years.
The place where it stands was originally the market; but that
site being the one most approved of for the erection of a public
building, the market was removed to a street nearly facing it,
where it has since been held.
The court house is a very noble-looking pile for a West India
colony, and indeed would not disgrace the boasted streets of
London. The plan of the structure is very uniform and neat. It is
built of a fine-grained freestone, the produce of some of the
small islands already described, which was furnished by contract
for the purpose by Mr. Robert Bannister, a former planter of
Antigua.
The principal entrance (to the south) is approached by iron
gates; and after crossing a small court-yard paved with large
flag-stones, you enter a small corridor, supported by circular
stone columns, with plain capitals. At each end of this corridor,
a flight of stairs leads to the upper apartments in the east and
west wings, the one appropriated to the use of his excellency the
governor, when he retires for the purpose of preparing his
speech; the other to the clerk of the assembly; below are the
marshal's office, and the office of the colonial secretary.
The ground-floor of the main building comprises one large room,
extending the whole length and breadth of the edifice. The east
end being fitted up for the sittings of all courts of justice,
has its bench for the judges, covered with crimson, and a chair
for the governor (when present), over which are the national
arms, where the "lion" grins with approved ferocity, and the
"unicorn" shews its golden hoofs. Around a huge circular table,
which might have feasted "king Arthur" and his gallant "knights,"
even better than the stone one which is shewn as having answered
for that purpose, are placed the sittings for the barristers,
attorney-general, solicitor-general, and benches for the grand
and petty juries. Exactly opposite the seat of the
solicitor-general, a ready pen has scrawled upon the table a
striking likeness of "his satanic majesty." I hope his aid was
not necessary in that part of Astrea's court, at the time his
lineaments were portrayed! This part of the interior is enclosed
within a semi-circular mahogany railing. At the lower or west end
of the apartment are congregated all the _canaille_--the very
riff-raff of the town--who flock to hear speeches they understand
as much as a Greek syllogism; the respectable spectators are
admitted within the enclosure. The barristers plead in gowns, but
not in wigs, very much to their comfort I should apprehend, in
this warm climate.
The upper floor of the court house is divided into two apartments
by wooden partitions, leaving a lobby between; but these can be
removed at pleasure, making the whole one room, as on the
ground-floor. The east apartment is appropriated to the governor
and council, when sitting; at other times for the use of the
grand jury, or petty juries in criminal causes. A long table
covered with "green cloth" runs across the room, and around which
are placed very handsome chairs, of unique patterns, (oak, with
cane backs, and green morocco seats and elbows,) the one destined
for the use of the governor being of larger dimensions, and
having the arms of England painted upon it.
The west room is used for the meeting of the house of assembly,
and is furnished in the same manner as the other apartment, only
that under the royal arms (which are attached to the north side
of the room) is a kind of rostrum, furnished with its proper
seat, and intended for the accommodation of the speaker of the
house of assembly.
On returning by the west flight of stairs, my eyes were directed
to a padlock in the wall, which formerly secured the ladder made
use of at executions; but happy am I to say, such scenes are now
of very rare occurrence in this island.
I should have observed, that balls and dinners are sometimes held
at the court house; as well as Bible and missionary meetings; and
also fancy sales for charitable purposes. The last fancy fair, or
rather bazaar, held there by the Church-of-England Association,
was a very crowded affair. It took place on the day after
Christmas-day, a day of all others devoted by the Antiguans to a
display of dress. Not only all kinds of fancy and ornamental
articles, fabricated by the fair hands of the Antiguan ladies
were to be found there, but what pleased some part of the company
much better, a well-filled lunch-table was spread, when pullets
and guinea-birds, turkeys and ham, were joined to a whole army of
tarts and puffs, fruits and confections. It was a motley group
that frequented the court house that day: Iris would have found
herself outvied in colours, and Fancy might have taken a new
lesson. In one part of the room might be seen a member of the
council, with his lady hanging upon his arm, and next to him a
black labourer _with his lady_, in the same position; the latter
couple making, in many instances, a far greater show than their
aristocratic neighbours.[80] The military band was stationed in
the lower apartment, and played during the day the most
fashionable and favourite airs. The profits arising from this
sale were appropriated to the purposes of assisting to defray the
expenses of the new public cistern lately erected.
Opposite the north side of the court house is the arsenal,
erected in 1757 or 1758. It is, as might be supposed, a strong
building, and stands in a court yard, enclosed with iron
railings. To the east of the arsenal is the old guard-house,
erected in 1754, during the administration of Sir George Thomas.
It is a plain building, with two projecting wings; but it is now
very much out of repair, not being used for any purpose.
Adjoining the guard-house is a long stone building, with its
grated windows, formerly used as the gaol of the island, but
within these last few years turned into the police office,--the
goal being removed to the suburbs of St. John's. This is a very
great improvement; for this building, standing in one of the
greatest thoroughfares of this populous town, and directly facing
the market, the culprits who were immured for petty crimes, and
kept in that part of the gaol, could look through their grated
windows, hold converse with the passers-by, and thus disseminate
their evil counsels among the idle and profligate of both sexes,
who were always lounging about that spot. The dungeons where the
felons used to be confined were gloomy dens indeed, and ran along
the outer walls of the prison. One of these dungeons has been
lately made into an engine-house, a door being broken through its
massy walls facing the street. Upon passing this vault during its
transformation, a sigh broke from my lips as memory carried me
back to those fearful days when so many miserable creatures, who
bore the name without the freedom of man, used to inhabit them,
and often, it is said, from very trivial causes. Like Sterne, I
fancied I could behold them in all their misery,--their bodies,
perhaps, wasted with disease,--their eyes blood-shot and wild
with despair,--their features sharpened by anguish of mind:--no
one to soothe their grief,--no one to hear their complaint,--and
without the _hope_, but not perhaps without the _fear_, of an
hereafter, they left those cheerless vaults to be launched into
eternity by the hangman's hands! The picture was too dreadful;
but sounds of laughter and gladness were abroad, our carriage
rolled on amid crowds of blacks of every sex and age; and
although at times I suffer, as many others do, from their
impudence of manners and behaviour, yet I felt in my heart a
pleasure at their being _free_. The present building was erected
in 1772, the former gaol having been burnt to the ground in the
great fire of 1769.
The next edifice worthy of notice is government house. It is
situated in a pleasant and open space in the suburbs, and
embraces a wide extent of prospect, while from its open windows
as pure a breeze may be inhaled as attainable from any dwelling
in the capital. Although possessing nothing very grand in its
exterior, or internal arrangements, no marble pillars or lofty
arches, yet it is a pleasant, genteel West Indian residence,
possessing some good apartments, and having its stabling and
other out-buildings upon a respectable scale. During the period
his excellency is residing in the capital, the "Union Jack"
floats from the top of the flag-staff, opposite government house;
and then all loyal subjects pay their respects to their young and
beautiful queen's representative.
The custom house, as has already been mentioned, was destroyed in
the fire of 1841. It was a very respectable edifice, and well
suited to the purpose. The building now used in its stead is
hired at the annual rent of 100l. sterling. The treasurer's and
registrar's offices are also private property, for which a
moderate rent is given.[81]
From the custom house, I proceed to mention the barracks, very
delightfully situated in a kind of open heath, to the east of the
town. These consisted of two distinct buildings a few paces from
each other; but the north wing of the lower one becoming
dismantled and ruinous, it was resolved in 1831 to repair it, and
appropriate it to the use of a gaol, instead of the building
already described in the vicinity of the court house.
In this gaol, far greater attention is paid to the unfortunate
inmates than was formerly the case. The prisoners are furnished
with two wholesome and sufficient meals a day, but no clothing or
bedding is allowed, unless by order of the medical man attending
them. The females are separated from the men, and the debtors
from the felons; although in former years they all used to herd
together.
Since the year 1829, the Rev. Robert Holberton, the excellent
rector of St. John's, has voluntarily visited the prison every
Sunday between the hours of seven and eight a.m., to read
prayers, and deliver a religious discourse to the inmates; and in
all cases where an unhappy being has so outraged the laws of
humanity and justice as to forfeit his life to pay the penalty of
his crimes, that divine has ever stepped in with his message of
mercy, prayed with them, and sought to soften their stony hearts;
to lead them to that only fountain capable of washing away their
deadly sins, and finally accompanied them to the last sad scene
of their mortal career.
One part of the gaol is converted into a house of correction, and
the prisoners confined there are employed in breaking stones, or,
under the surveillance of an officer, in working in the roads, or
assisting in any other public works. A treadmill was sent for
from England some time ago, but after costing the country a large
sum, strange to say, no use is made of it. A shed is built over
it, and there it remains quietly in the gaol-yard, and is likely
to do so to the end of its existence. The reason for not using
this machine, however, is said to be on account of the power
required to work it, which necessarily calls for the exertions of
a large gang; and although the house of correction is generally
crowded with occupants, yet there has seldom been a sufficient
number of culprits at one time condemned to that peculiar
punishment, to set the treadmill going.
The north end of the building is appropriated to the use of the
officers of her majesty's troops, stationed for the time in the
island; and notwithstanding its near proximity to a prison, must,
I should think, be a very pleasant domicile. The privates are
quartered at the other barracks, further to the east; and beneath
the shade of a large tree growing near, their red-faced wives may
be seen busily employed in washing their habiliments, while their
sun-burnt children scramble about and chase the butterflies, who,
gorgeous in colours, sport about the margin of a neighbouring
pond.
The next building to be mentioned is, the new Ebenezer Chapel,
belonging to the Methodist society. The corner-stone of this
edifice was laid by the Honourable Nicholas Nugent (then speaker
of the house of assembly, but who now resides in England as the
colonial agent) in 1837. A religious service was first held in
the old chapel, and then, forming into a procession, consisting
of ministers of the different sects in Antigua, some of the
aristocrats of the island, the leading members of the Methodists,
and the scholars of their Sunday-schools, they marched to the
spot appointed for the erection of their new place of worship. A
bottle containing the customary inscription was placed in the
cavity the stone lowered to its proper situation, the three blows
of the mallet struck, addresses delivered, and the ceremony was
over.
It is a spacious building, the front being constructed of
free-stone, the gift of the Honourable and Rev. Nathaniel
Gilbert. It is pierced with two tiers of windows; the upper ones
arched and of larger size than the lower tier, which are very
disproportioned to the extent of the edifice--a circumstance
which tends to render it warmer than it otherwise would be. The
ground-floor is appropriated to the use of the infant and Sunday
schools, as also their "tea-parties," held for charitable
purposes; above is the chapel, which is approached by an outward
flight of stone steps. The interior is fitted up in the usual
plain style; but boasts a smart display of blue and white paint.
The pulpit, painted to represent oak, is an irregular octagon,
supported by four fluted columns, and covered with purple
drapery, bordered with yellow fringe, instead of gold; below is
the reading desk. The pulpit is so lofty, which renders it
inconvenient for such of the congregation as occupy the body of
the chapel to follow the movements of the officiating minister.
The galleries run round all sides, and are supported by plain
cast-iron pillars, bearing each its neat-looking lamp. The last
gallery is exclusively appropriated to the use of the children of
the Females' Friend Society and the Sunday-school scholars; and
here, also, is placed the seraphine belonging to the chapel,
which serves to lead the vocal part of the service. Altogether,
the chapel is an excellent building, superior to anything of the
kind I have seen in the West Indies, and makes a good and
commanding outward appearance, particularly when lighted up of an
evening; but to my eye it looks more like reading rooms, or a
philosophical institution, than a place of worship.
Methodism was first established in Antigua in 1760, by the
Honourable Nathaniel Gilbert, speaker of the house of assembly.
In 1758, Mr. Gilbert visited England, carrying with him some of
his negro servants; and during his stay there, he formed an
acquaintance with the Rev. John Wesley, the venerable founder of
Methodism, who baptized two of the negroes. Upon Mr. Gilbert's
return to Antigua, he signified to those individuals who resided
near him, that he should feel happy in meeting them at his house
on certain evenings, when he would expound the word of God to
them, and endeavour to enlighten their minds upon religious
subjects. This invitation was eagerly accepted by many of the
negroes and coloured people, and Mr. Gilbert was led to increase
his views, and form a regular organized society, which in a short
time amounted to two hundred members.
This proceeding of Mr. Gilbert produced the greatest astonishment
among the inhabitants of Antigua. A man in his rank of life to
herd with negro slaves, and their coloured offspring, who,
although perhaps they might be free, bore about with them the
marks of their despised race!--oh! wondrous! incomprehensible!--
the man must be mad, thought they. But when he, unmindful of
their censure, proceeded in his acts of love towards these poor
outcasts from the pale of society, their wonder knew no bounds;
their feelings took another turn, and what at first was surprise,
gave way to reproach and contempt. Mr. Gilbert, however, was not
to be moved by what mankind said of him; he knew the consequence
before he commenced his labours; and reckless of scorn or
reprehension, he steadily pursued the path he had chalked out,
knowing full well in whom he trusted. Thus he proceeded, until
death called him from this world, and summoned him to reap his
reward in heaven; when, strong in faith, he left his infant
society without a shepherd to watch over its welfare.
Mr. Gilbert derived his origin from a family of considerable
distinction in the west of England, where one of its members--Sir
Humphrey Gilbert--associating himself with his kinsman, the
celebrated Sir Walter Raleigh, became one of the most eminent
circumnavigators of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Dying, he left
a son, Raleigh Gilbert, Esq., who, among other individuals,
obtained from King James I. a large grant, in what was then
termed Plymouth--the foundation of the afterwards glorious colony
of Virginia, in North America--and where, in 1606, he emigrated,
along with the Lord Chief Justice Popham; George Popham, Esq.
(his son); William Parker, Esq.; and Thomas Stanham, Esq. Soon
after this period, we find Raleigh Gilbert, under the title of
Captain Gilbert, in command of a vessel manned with 100 men, and
provided with ordnance, stores, and provisions, sufficient for
the establishment of a plantation, which he (in conjunction with
Captain Popham, a joint patentee, and in command of another
vessel, similarly provided) began on the banks of the river
"Sagadock," in the year 1608, and where they erected a fort,
called Sir George's. Captain Popham, his zealous coadjutor,
having died in this place, Captain Gilbert returned to England,
where he took possession of an estate, fallen to him by the death
of his elder brother, Sir John Gilbert, President of the
Virginian Company. Another member of this family, we find, about
the same time, leader of an abortive expedition to form a
settlement upon the shores of the Bay of Chesapeake, in Virginia,
and who, it appears, was well acquainted with those several
islands which now form the Leeward Caribbee government. The
following extract is taken from a work published in 1741 (second
edition):--
"In the same year, Captain Gilbert, in the 'Elizabeth,' of
London, made a voyage to Virginia, but not with the like success.
He traded with the savages in the Charibbe Islands--viz., St
Lucia, Dominica, Nevis, St Christopher's, &c., and thence
proceeded to the Bay of Chesapeake, in Virginia, being the first
that sailed up it, and landed there. The Indians set upon him and
his company in the woods, and Captain Gilbert and four or five of
his men were killed by their arrows, upon which his crew returned
home."
We cannot undertake to say from which particular member of this
distinguished family the Gilberts of Antigua sprang, but they
were among its earliest settlers, and constituted some of the
greatest ornaments of the colony, in which for so many years they
have been proprietors. The present most noble Marquis of
Northampton, President of the Royal Society, descends, in a
female line, from this family. His mother, the late marchioness,
(married, August 18, 1787, to Charles, late Earl and Marquis of
Northampton, and died, March, 1843,) being the daughter of a Miss
Gilbert, (daughter of Nathaniel Gilbert, of Gilberts, Antigua,
Esq., grandfather of the present Honourable and Reverend N.
Gilbert,) by her husband, Joshua Smith, of East Stoke Park, co.
of Wilts, Esq.
But to return to Methodism. Unpromising as the state of this
little society might seem, the good seed already sown was not
destined to perish. The Great Shepherd cared for it; and when
least expected, raised another pastor in the person of a Mr. John
Baxter, a native of England. Mr. Baxter was a man who moved in
humble life, and who worked in the capacity of shipwright, in
Chatham Dockyard; but he was justly esteemed by all who knew him,
a pattern to the society to which he belonged, and a
highly-respected leader among Mr. Wesley's sect. In 1777, a
proposal was made him by some of the directors of the Chatham
Dockyard, to sail for Antigua, and work as foreman of the calkers
in the naval establishment of that island. To this Mr. Baxter
assented; but not so his friends: they made use of every argument
in their power to make him forego his purpose--representing, in
the most glowing colours, the distance he would be from all he
loved; the dangers of the ocean, over which he must pass; and the
difference, perhaps insalubrity, of climate he would have to
contend with. But all without avail; he felt an unconquerable
desire to visit that portion of the globe, and accordingly,
bidding his friends farewell, he left England, and arrived in
Antigua on the 2nd of April, 1778.
As might be expected, he found the infant Methodist Society in a
very languishing state. Upon hearing of his arrival, and of his
being a member of the same sect as their beloved benefactor, the
little band waited upon him, and after welcoming him to their
shores, begged him to tell Mr. Wesley he had many children in
Antigua whom he had never seen, but who were earnestly desirous
of his aid. On the following Sabbath, Mr. Baxter met them in the
services of religion, and from that day constituted himself their
pastor; which office he performed until his death, assembling
them together on Sundays, and performing the full service, as in
England, and on the other week-days, after his labours in the
dockyard were over, visiting the different estates, and teaching
the poor slaves the road to salvation.
His exertions were greatly blessed; and by the following year,
1779, six hundred negroes were joined to the congregation. He now
contemplated the erection of a chapel, and for that purpose
instituted collections among his people, and adopted every other
consistent method to acquire funds to carry out his plans.
Mr. Baxter's situation was productive of great discomfort to
himself; his duties to be performed in the naval-yard were very
laborious; and after a long day's work, his evenings were spent
in travelling from plantation to plantation, the harbinger of
Gospel news. He had no one to assist him in his self-appointed
task, but for some years laboured on alone. In 1782, he mentions
in a letter to a friend, "There is no white person in the
congregation but myself. At St. John's, thirty coloured persons
receive the Lord's Supper."
Assistance, however, was not so far off as he supposed. About
this time an Irish family (who were all members of Mr. Wesley's
sect) were persuaded by an unprincipled captain of a trading
vessel, to sell all their little property, and emigrate with him
to America. Deceived by his plausible manners and fair speeches,
they acquiesced in his proposals; and turning all their goods
into money, the whole family, consisting of an elderly father and
mother, a son, and some daughters, embarked on board his vessel,
and sought with him their better fortune in a far-off land. But
their false friend having inveigled them into his power, under
various pretences, robbed them of their little all, and then
deserted them, in a strange country. After suffering many and
bitter privations, they found their way to Antigua, where they
eventually became valuable assistants to Mr. Baxter.
In the meantime, Mr. Baxter's great object, the erection of a
Methodist chapel in St. John's, was rapidly being accomplished;
and on the 8th of November, 1783, that worthy man, with an
overflowing heart, had the happiness of preaching his first
sermon in it, to a full and serious audience. In the space of the
three following years, the society increased to 2000 persons.
In 1786, Dr. Coke, the Wesleyan missionary and historian, left
England, for the purpose of spreading gospel tidings in America.
Meeting, however, with violent gales, the ship in which he took
passage was unable to make her destined port; and after
encountering a series of disasters, as a last and only resort,
was obliged to put into Antigua, in distress. Dr. Coke was
delighted to find the Wesleyan society in that island in so
satisfactory a state--a circumstance he was unprepared for; and
in his letters to England, expresses in warm terms his pleasure
upon the subject.
The first conference was held at Antigua, in the year 1787; but
the annual conferences, or district meetings, were not
established until 1793, when, on the returns being made, the
society was found to consist of 6570 members; out of which there
were 36 white, and 105 coloured persons. Although the Methodist
society had progressed so far, and embraced so many members, yet
its proceedings were reviled and insulted by the greater part of
the white inhabitants. All kinds of petty insults were heaped
upon its pastors; while their place of worship was made the scene
of vulgar waggeries and ribald jests. One favourite amusement
with many of the young men of that period was, to procure a live
goat, and after hampering its legs, fling it into the midst of
the assembly, while engaged at their devotion at the Methodist
chapel. At other times, in order to vary the sport, the goat was
secured against the chapel door; and as the minister pronounced
the amen, or the members raised their hymns of praise to God, the
poor animal was beat and kicked until it joined in chorus with
its deep and unharmonious cries, which were received with bursts
of applauding laughter by its foolish captors.
Mr. Baxter, although a very _good_ man, was not, I have
understood, possessed of very superior talents; and accordingly,
many of his discourses produced much merriment among that class
of persons who frequented his chapel for the sake of passing
criticisms, as well as killing time. He had a favourite servant
living with him, whose name was John Bott, and who attended to
the lighting up of the chapel, as well as performing his home
duties. Upon one occasion, John neglected to snuff the candles;
an omission which caused his master so much uneasiness, that,
after endeavouring in vain to read the portion of Scripture
selected, he was fain to interrupt himself in the midst of a
passage--"And Nathan said unto David--John Bott, snuff the
candles!" This intervention, as may be supposed, caused a tumult
of laughter; nor (said an ear-witness) could his own people
restrain their risible faculties. But to return. About 1793, Dr.
Coke paid Antigua another visit, and preached upon many
plantations; one of which was Sir George Thomas's, at North
Sound. The old chapel at Parham was erected in 1802; the returns
of the society made that year were, 4000 persons.
The year 1805 was marked by the Methodists as that in which their
friend and pastor, Mr. John Baxter, closed his mortal career,
after a well-spent life--twenty-seven years of which he passed in
Antigua.[82] He died November the 13th, 1805, and was interred in
the churchyard of St. John's; but if any stone marked the place
of burial, time has obliterated the inscription, or else
shattered the tomb. The visitor may look in vain for such a
memento. It appears strange to me, that the Wesleyans of Antigua
have never erected monuments to the memories of Mr. Gilbert and
Mr. Baxter. I am sure there are members enough to do this; and it
would be but paying a proper tribute of respect to the memories
of those excellent men, and founders of that sect in this island.
Perhaps, they may take the hint, and allow the walls of their
handsome chapel to be graced with two neat marble tablets devoted
to that purpose.
But to proceed. Since Mr. Baxter's death, the Wesleyan society
has been rapidly progressing, not only in Antigua, but in all the
other West India Islands, although Antigua is still looked upon
as the parent church; and in 1842, the society in that island
consisted of about 2700 members. Beside the chapel in St. John's,
they have places of worship at Parham, English Harbour,
Willoughby Bay, and elsewhere.
Thus, from a small beginning--from a few black slaves gathered
together by night beneath the roof of a white man--this society
has spread far and wide, like some huge wave, until now it boasts
a vast increase of number, of every variety of shade, from the
ruddy son of Britain, down to the jetty offspring of Afric's
soil. Great success has attended the preaching of this sect; and
although an episcopalian myself, and consequently more attached
to that form of worship, I cannot let the opportunity pass me
without offering my mite of praise to the character of their
undaunted and fervent ministers, tendering my hearty wishes for
their further progress, and, at the same time, expressing my firm
belief that they have, through God, been the means of preventing
much crime, and saving many, very many, from the fearful
retribution, the inevitable attendant on a misspent life.
From this view of the Methodist Chapel and Methodism, I proceed
to mention the Moravian settlement. The Moravians, or rather,
"United Brethren," as many of my readers may be aware, revived
under the celebrated Count Zinzendorf, a native of Germany, who,
with some of his followers, visited England in the reign of
George II., and formed several settlements of their sect in
different parts of that kingdom. They also established colonies
in Greenland, Labrador, and other parts of North America, and in
South America.
In 1731, Count Zinzendorf visited Denmark, for the purpose of
attending the coronation of Christian VI., who, by the death of
his father, was called to the throne of that kingdom. During his
residence at that court, some of his domestics became acquainted
with a negro, named Anthony, from one of the Danish islands. This
man related many instances of the moral darkness in which the
West Indies were enveloped, and of the distressed state of the
negroes; which being repeated to the count, he felt an invincible
desire to send missionaries to that part of the world, to
proclaim the "tidings of great joy" to those poor benighted
negroes.
In 1732, this desire was carried into effect; and two
missionaries were despatched from "Herrnhutt," (the principal
Moravian station, in Lusatia, Germany,) to St. Thomas. Other
missionaries followed them; and in 1733, they planted their
standard in St. Croix. In 1754, the society in London sent
missionaries to Jamaica, who were followed by some of the
brethren from America; and in 1756, Samuel Isles, a true and
exemplary Christian, came from St. Thomas, where he had been
residing as missionary for eight years, and established the first
Moravian settlement in Antigua.
Their labour of love was at first very slow in its progress; but
they succeeded, in 1761, in raising a chapel, for the
accommodation of the negroes, on a spot of land, purchased for
the purpose, in St. John's. Still their society rather decreased
than flourished, until, about 1768, there were only fourteen
members in the church at St. John's. Disheartening as these
circumstances were, like true soldiers of the Cross, they would
not lay down their arms; and at length, their faith and patience
met with their reward. A wonderful revival took place, and in
1775 "the number of their stated hearers amounted to 2000; and
never a month elapsed without an addition to the church of ten or
twenty by baptism."
By the year 1787, 5465 negroes were admitted into the church.
Their first settlement was situated at St. John's; but in 1782,
they had formed another at Grace Hill, or, as it was first
termed, Bailey Hill; a delightful spot, about ten miles from the
capital. The number baptized at St. John's, in 1789, was 507;
while at Grace Hill, 217 were admitted into the church by that
ceremony. By this time, five preachers were settled in Antigua;
and in the course of the two following years, the society
enrolled 7400 members. At the present period, 1842, the number
may be estimated at 11,000.
Their settlement at St. John's is situated in Spring Gardens, at
the extreme north end of the town, and looks the very picture of
neatness and domestic comfort. The present chapel, erected in
1773, is a plain building--devoid of any great architectural
beauty, it is true, but interesting from its very simplicity, and
from being built by the negroes in times of slavery. The rapid
increase of their numbers, already mentioned, rendered it
necessary to provide a larger place of worship; which fact being
mentioned to their negro converts, they immediately commenced
procuring some of the materials, by each bringing a few stones
with them, when they came to their evening meetings in the week.
Those of them who were masons and carpenters worked with the
greatest energy "in their free hours, after their daily tasks
were done; and those who could not assist in the labour provided
victuals for the workmen." Since that period, the chapel has had
many enlargements and alterations made to it. The dwellings of
the preachers are gathered around it; and their neat,
cheerful-looking burying-ground, in which grows many a beautiful
tree, bounds the settlement to the east. Everything about them
looks green, and fresh, and lovely; and their wives, in their
neat caps, and Quaker-like style of dress, and the often very
pretty, but quiet contour of their features, appear in perfect
harmony with the other parts of the picture. I must say, I like
the Moravians: they seem to have so much open-heartedness about
them--such patriarchal simplicity of manners. Among themselves
they are ever kind and courteous, forming, as it were, one large
family of affectionate brothers and sisters. They have done much
good among the black race, for whose welfare the mission was
particularly intended; and many happy deaths among them attest
the truth. Besides their settlement in St. John's, they have
several in other parts of the island; namely, at Grace Hill,
Grace Bay, Newfield, Cedar Hall, Lebanon, Gracefield, and Five
Islands.
Among their ministers, men of learning and talent may be found.
Their superintendent, the Rev. Mr. H------, is a great biblical
scholar, possessed of superior faculties, and a good nervous
preacher; but some of their missionaries, although far from
deficient in erudition, from being natives of Germany, and not
thoroughly acquainted with the English language, are almost
unintelligible to English ears. I cannot say I admire the singing
part of their service; at a given signal they all seem to dart
off at the highest pitch of their voices, and keep on without
regard to time or melody. However, I understand they have also a
seraphine for the use of their chapel, which may tend to modulate
the discordant voices of their congregation.[83] I hope these
last few remarks may not be understood as unkind or sarcastic.
Far be it from me to scoff at _any sect_. True it is I note their
peculiarities; but if founded on the conscientious belief of the
propriety of their own form of worship, I would not raise a laugh
at the fantastic movements of even the "Jumpers" or the "Shakers"
by any animadversions of mine.
The last and remaining edifice I have to mention, is the
half-finished kirk of the Scotchmen. The foundation-stone of this
place of worship was laid with the usual ceremonies by Sir Wm.
Colebrooke, the late governor, on the 9th of April, 1839. It is
situated upon an ascent on the eastern outskirts of the town, and
from it may be seen many a lovely landscape, which Claude
Lorraine would not have scorned to imitate. It progresses but
slowly; but still it has been known for the tortoise to outrun
the hare, and win the race, and therefore the Scotch kirk may yet
exceed some of its contemporaries. In its present form I can say
but little about it, except that the same fault cannot be found
with it as there has been with the Methodist chapel--the small
size of the windows--for the Scotch kirk appears to be all
windows and doors. If, however, the Scotchman will make haste and
finish the building, I will promise to write all about it; in the
meantime, as I have already made this chapter of leviathan
dimensions, I will make my courtesy, and--exit for the night.
------
[80] This social assemblage of "white" and "black" is one of the
good effects of emancipation. Some years ago this dark-skinned
race would have been kept from within the precincts of the walls
by the point of a bayonet, as it was the custom on similar
occasions to have a guard.
[81] The dates of papers in most of these offices commence from
1668, after Antigua was restored by the French, and Lord W.
Willoughby settled in the government by his majesty Charles the
Second.
[82] Mr. Baxter gave up his situation in the dock-yard after the
erection of the chapel in St. John's, and removed to a small
house erected in the chapel-yard, and continued to fill the
office of the established minister until his death.
[83] This is a misinformation. There is no seraphine in the
chapel, but a small but very sweet-toned organ in the
school-room. Upon a late visit to the chapel, however, I find
that the congregation is very much improved in their style of
singing.