CHAPTER I.

Produced by Paul Flo Williams

ANTIGUA

AND THE ANTIGUANS:

A FULL ACCOUNT OF

THE COLONY AND ITS INHABITANTS

FROM THE TIME OF THE CARIBS

TO THE PRESENT DAY,

Interspersed with Anecdotes and Legends.

ALSO,

AN IMPARTIAL VIEW OF SLAVERY AND THE

FREE LABOUR SYSTEMS;

THE STATISTICS OF THE ISLAND,

AND BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES OF THE PRINCIPAL FAMILIES.

"Sworn to no party, of no sect am I."--Pope.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON

SAUNDERS AND OTLEY, CONDUIT STREET.

1844.

TO THE

HONBLE ROWLAND EDWARD WILLIAMS,

LATE CAPTAIN IN THE 10th REGIMENT OF HUSSARS,

ONE OF HER MAJESTY'S PRIVY COUNCIL IN ANTIGUA,

THE LINEAL DESCENDANT OF

THE FIRST WHITE CHILD BORN IN THAT ISLAND,

AND THE FRIEND AND BENEFACTOR OF ITS INHABITANTS

OF EVERY HUE AND COLOUR,

This Work,

DESCRIPTIVE OF ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS,

IS, BY HIS KIND PERMISSION,

INSCRIBED

BY HIS FAITHFUL AND OBLIGED SERVANT,

THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

Although in the present day the writing of a preface may be

considered almost a work of supererogation on the part of an

author, since it is that portion of a work seldom or ever looked

into, still, as custom demands the form, and there may be some

among my readers who may desire to learn what first led me to

undertake this work, I am induced to follow the fashion, more

especially as on one or two points I am desirous of offering a

few words of comment and explanation.

Not being a native of the West Indies, and visiting that part of

the world for the first time at an age when all looks bright

around us, the novelty of the scenes which passed before my eyes

struck me forcibly, and induced me to make notes of the

impressions I then received. Pursuing the same practice at

subsequent visits, and during prolonged residences, in process of

time my memoranda expanded to a considerable bulk. The increasing

interest I took in everything relating to Antigua, led me to

inquire into its early history, and to search out the origin of

the numerous ancient families whose descendants have resided in

the island from the period of its colonization.

Some of my friends in the island who had become acquainted with

my pursuits, were gratified by the specimens of my labours, which

were exhibited to them, and urged me to throw my scattered notes

into form. I yielded to their solicitations, and the result has

been the following pages, which, while they afford a condensed

history of the colony from its earliest days, present also a

record of the impressions produced on one, at first, fresh from

English society, but now, by long continued residence, become

almost an Antiguan; having, it is hoped, lost all relics of

English prejudice, but not become so biassed by her new

connexions, or blinded by the many charms of Antigua or Antiguan

society, as to hold the scales of justice unevenly.

Having been resident in Antigua both before and after the passing

of the Emancipation Act, and having had ample opportunity of

judging of the practical effects of that memorable event, the

observations I have made with relation to it may not be

considered altogether unimportant.

In perusing the early history of the colony, the English reader

may be surprised to find how many men of family became early

settlers in the West Indies; but when the eager spirit of

adventure which immediately followed the enterprises of the

Spaniards, and was so eminently conspicuous in the days of

Elizabeth, is called to mind--when the causes which drove the

"pilgrim fathers" forth are recollected, together with the

numerous emigrations which took place from England, when the

Royalists, in their turn forced to become fugitives, mostly

sought a refuge in the West Indies, at first a safe and

sanctioned asylum, till the very amount of the fresh influx of

Royalist opinions made the West Indies a thorn in Cromwell's

side, and compelled him to have recourse to strong measures to

secure their obedience to his will,--when all these causes are

considered, it becomes no longer a matter of wonder that much of

the best blood of England runs in the veins of the people, not

only of Antigua, but of the West India islands generally.

In justice to the character of the country which I have learned

to love, I must, although unwillingly, notice another and a most

painful subject. I refer to the exceedingly harsh laws passed

respecting the slaves, and the shocking executions of those

concerned in the insurrection in 1736. In relation to the former

point, it is sufficient to observe that such laws are almost

inseparable from the institution of slavery itself, and that the

stigma affected the mother country equally with her colonies,

while it redounds to the honour of Antigua that she was the first

to announce unbounded freedom to her slave population. With

respect to the barbarous executions, they would not be tolerated

in Antigua at the present day, even had she continued to be a

slave-dealing colony; and they can only in justice be referred to

a state of society when the practice of torture had hardly fallen

into desuetude in the civil courts of Europe, when the

Inquisition was in full glory, when, only a few years before, the

politest capital in the world had looked unmoved on

"Luke's iron crown, and Damien's bed of steel,"

and criminals continued to be strung up by dozens in England (and

for many long years after) for offences which, in the present

advanced state of society, no civilized state would visit with

the punishment of death. What wonder, then, that at such a

period, and under such alarming circumstances, the Antiguans

should have shewn themselves cruel and barbarous?

Before I conclude, I must not omit to tender my acknowledgments

to the numerous friends who have kindly afforded me assistance in

the course of my work, among whom let me make grateful mention of

Edward S. Byam, Esq., the Rev. and Hon. Burgh Byam, Col. Byam,

Dr. Furgusson, Nathaniel Humphreys, Esq., Deputy Colonial

Secretary in Antigua, (to which latter gentleman I was indebted

for access to the Records of the island,) to John Furlong, Esq.,

(who obliged me with the will of Governor Parke,) Registrar of

Antigua, to ------ Edmead, Esq., to Captain George B. Mathew, of

the Guards, the Rev. D. F. Warner, and others.

In conclusion, may the Great Giver of all good pour down His

choicest blessings upon this beautiful and favoured little

island; may her legislators be ably endowed in all true

principles of jurisprudence; may her planters be blest with

kindly showers, so that their golden canes may raise their "tall

plumes" in luxuriance; may her merchants, the prop of every

civilized state, be prosperous--her peasantry happy and good, as

they are _free_; and, finally, may her ministers (of every

denomination) be long spared to watch over and pray for her

teeming inhabitants, that one choral song of praise may resound

from every quarter and from every tongue.

The Author.

CONTENTS

OF

THE FIRST VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

General Description of the Island--Appearance--Soil--

Productions--Climate--Early history--Discovery by Columbus--

Attempted settlement by Spaniards--Grant to Earl of Carlisle--

Settlement by d'Esnambuc--Williams--Governor Warner--Account of

Sir Thomas Warner, founder of the family

CHAPTER II.

History of the island continued--Sir Henry Hunks--Descent of

the Caribs--Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook--Arrival of the Ship

Nonsuch--Sir Thomas Modiford--Earl of Warwick, Captain-General

--Captain Edward Warner--Colonel Rich--Colonel Lake--Mr.

Everard--Sir George Ayscue--Colonel Christopher Reynall--

Invasion by the Caribs--Dissensions among the inhabitants--Copy

of Colonel Reynall's letter to Cromwell--Attack upon St.

Domingo and Jamaica--Major-General Poyntz--Grant of Antigua to

Lord F. Willoughby

CHAPTER III.

Rupture between France and England--War in the West Indies--

Loss of Lord Francis Willoughby--Colonel Carden--Capture of

Antigua by the French forces under M. de la Barre--Colonel

Fitche--Restoration of Antigua by the Treaty of Breda--Death of

Colonel Carden--Biographical notices

CHAPTER IV.

Governors: Lord William Willoughby, Henry Willoughby--Arrival

of Major, afterwards Lieutenant-General Byam, the progenitor of

the family of that name--Biographical remarks--Partition of the

Caribbee Islands--Sir William Stapleton--General Council and

Assembly--Colonel Philip Warner--Expedition against the Caribs

--Death of Indian Warner--Arrest and trial of Colonel P. Warner

--Acquittal--Dampier's account of this affair--Captain

Southey's History of the Indian Warner

CHAPTER V.

Governor Col. R. Williams--Biographical remarks--Towns of trade

appointed--Antigua divided into parishes--Sir Nathaniel Johnson

appointed captain-general and governor-in-chief--Colonel

Codrington--Remarks upon this family--Invasion of Antigua by a

French privateer--Attack upon Guadeloupe by the English--

Expedition to St. Christopher's--Gallant conduct of Colonel

Williams and Colonel Willoughby Byam--Sir Francis Wheeler's

expedition--Wilmot and Lillingston's expedition--Death of the

captain-general, General Codrington--Colonel John Yeamans,

lieutenant-governor--Arrival of Admiral Benbow

CHAPTER VI.

Governor Colonel Christopher Codrington--Establishment of the

first market--Accession of Queen Anne--Arrival of Admiral

Benbow--Attack upon the island of Guadaloupe, in conjunction

with the Antiguan troops--Bravery of Colonel Edward Byam--

Arrival of Captain Hovenden Walker--Second attack upon

Guadaloupe--Colonel Codrington quits the government--His death

--Sir William Mathew--Hon. John Johnson

CHAPTER VII.

Governor Colonel Daniel Parke--His birth-place and parentage--

His actions at the battle of Holchet and Blenheim--His arrival

at Antigua--Dissensions with the Antiguans--Complaints against

him sent to England--Results of the applications at the court

of Queen Anne--Tyrannical behaviour of Colonel Parke--Events of

the 7th December, 1710--Death of Colonel Parke

CHAPTER VIII.

Governor Walter Hamilton--Walter Douglas's Disturbances--

Complaints against him sent to England--Queen Anne recalls him,

and reappoints Walter Hamilton--Lord Viscount Lowther--John

Hart--Lord Londonderry--Lord Forbes--Colonel William Crosbie

CHAPTER IX.

Governor William Mathew--Insurrection of the Negroes--A Legend

of the Ravine--Punishment of the Conspirators

CHAPTER X.

Governor William Mathew--Sir George Thomas, Bart.--James

Verchild--Honourable William Woodley--Sir Ralph Payne--Hon.

Craister Greathead--General Burt--The circumstances of his

death--Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart.

CHAPTER XI.

Governors: William Woodley--John Stanley--Major-General Charles

Leigh--Archibald Esdail--John S. Thomas--Robert Thomson

CHAPTER XII.

Governors: The Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington--William

Woodley--James Tyson--John Julius--Hugh Elliot--Sir James Leith

--Henry Rawlins--S. Rawlins--Major-General Ramsay

CHAPTER XIII.

Governors: Sir Benjamin D'Urban--Sir Patrick Ross--Sir Evan

Murray McGregor--Mr. Light--Sir W. G. MacBean Colebrooke--Major

McPhail--Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy

CHAPTER XIV.

My first voyage to Antigua--Visit upon deck--The booby's

welcome--Nearer approach--Harbour of St. John's--The Black

Pilot--North Sandy Island--Wreck of the mail-boat--Dangerous

navigation--Long Island--South Sandy Island--Panoramic views

from the vessel's deck--Light winds--Disappointment made

pleasing--Anchorage for the night

CHAPTER XV.

The extent of Antigua--Opinion of some planters--Want of

agricultural labourers--Emigration not always profitable to the

negroes--"Seizar's" letter upon the subject--Return of

emigrants--Soil of Antigua--Geological matters--Petrifactions--

Climate of Antigua--"Yellow fever"--Beautiful evenings--the

appearance of the heavens--Evening visitants

CHAPTER XVI.

Scenery of Antigua--Pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring"--The

Goddess Mnemosyne--Fig-Tree Hill--The "Bower of Bliss"--"Old

Road"--The Strand--The cross sexton--The parochial school--Old

Road Church--Tomb of Col. Williams--Moravian settlement--Salt

ponds--Copses--"Crab Hill"--Sandy Valley--The Valley Church--

The rising moon--Arrival in town--Night, and night dreams

CHAPTER XVII.

The seasons at Antigua--Heavy rains--Long droughts--The

water-merchant--A fortunate shower--Drought in 1837--Desolate

appearance of the country--Famishing cattle--Definition of

"_fine rains_"--Anecdote--Heavy shower--Joy--Earthquakes--1835

--Meteors--Dressing for the ball--The alarm--The ball-room--

Hurricanes--Devastations

CHAPTER XVIII.

Description of the town of St. John's, the capital of Antigua--

Situation--Arrangement of the streets--Hucksters--Houses--

Springs--Small shops--Stores of the retail dealers--Grog-shops

--Merchants' stores and lumber yards--Definition of lumber--

Auction sales--Scotch Row and Scotchmen--Incongruous display of

goods--Fire in 1797--Ruins--Fire in 1841--Its devastations

CHAPTER XIX.

Description of the church of St John's--Period of its erection

--Present site--Panoramic views--Form of structure--Length and

breadth--Interior--Decorations--Monuments--Organ--Tower--Bells

--Clock--Churchyard--Tombs and sepulchral inscriptions--An

acrostic--"Adam and Eve!"

CHAPTER XX.

Court-house--Bazaar--Arsenal--Police-office--Government-house--

Barracks--House of correction--Gaol--Methodist chapel--

Methodism, its rise and progress in Antigua--Moravian chapel--

Rise and progress of the Society of United Brethren--Scotch

kirk

CHAPTER XXI.

Morning--Institutions--Daily Meal Society--Its rise and

progress--Lazaretto--Destitute Females' Friend Society--Its

origin and purpose--Friendly Societies--Bible Society--

Missionary associations--Temperance Society--Juvenile

Association--Ladies' Clothing Society &c.--Banks--Library

Society

CHAPTER XXII.

Early rising and "Jamie Thomson"--Journey to English Harbour--

Windmills and Don Quixote--Groups of negroes and their

equipages--All Saints' chapel of ease--The "Hamlet"--Village of

Liberta--Grace Hill--Patterson's and Prince William--English

Harbour market--Streets and dwellings--Commissariat's store and

government tank--Dockyard--The superintendent--Stores and

storehouses--Engineer's workshop--Blacksmith's shop and blowing

machine--Limes and roses--Recollections of England--Lieutenant

Peterson and Lord Camelford--His lordship's pranks--The

ordnance--Clarence House and Dows Hill--The Ridge and "Shirley

heights"--Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley--Bats Cave--The

Savannah and its tombs--Indian Creek--Return to town

CHAPTER XXIII.

Zulmiera, the Half-Carib girl, a Legend of the Savannah

CHAPTER XXIV.

Continuation of the Legend

CHAPTER XXV.

Conclusion of the Legend

CHAPTER XXVI.

Towns: Falmouth--Church and churchyard--Mangroves and acacias--

Black's Point--Bridgetown--Willoughby Bay--Its site and

decoration--The superintendent of the Wesleyan schools--

School-room--Methodist chapel--The Memoras--St Philip's church

--Beautiful views--Parham--Its derivation and site--St Peter's

church--Churchyard--The new church--Methodist chapel and

school-room

CHAPTER XXVII.

Forts and fortifications--Temporary ones--The present forts--

Fort James--Its situation and approach--Rat Island Battery, its

appellation, lunatic asylum, and flag-staff--Goat Hill--Steep

ascent--Schools in St. John's

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Remarks upon the aboriginal Americans--Suppositions of various

authors--Caribs--Arrowawks--Ferocity of the Carib--Complexion--

Dress--Ornaments--Dreadful revenge--Wars-Chiefs--Severities

practised--Feasts--Remarks upon paganism--Anthropophagi--A

traveller's tale--The Carib's opinion of death--Religious

tenets--Altars--The burning Carib

ERRATA.

[Transcriber's Note: these errata have been incorporated.]

Page 4, line 8 from top, _for_ "D'Escambue," _read_ "D'Esnambuc."

-- 20, line 7 from bottom, _for_ "Parhan," _read_ "Parham."

-- 89, line 3 from top, _for_ "Mathews," _read_ "Mathew."

-- 249, line 13 from top, _for_ "Hernhult," _read_ "Herrnhutt."

-- 266, line 3 from bottom, _for_ "Sheltic," _read_ "Sheltie."

SUBSCRIBERS.

COPIES

Sir Charles A. Fitz Roy, Governor-in-Chief of the

Leeward Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Major McPhail, Lieutenant-Governor of Dominica . . . . . . 4

The Lord Bishop of Antigua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Members of Council

COPIES

Hon. Mead H. Daniel, President . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. Rowland E. Williams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Hon. William Byam, (Cedar Hill) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Hon. Bertie E. Jarvis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Hon. G. W. Ottley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. R. W. Nanton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. Owen Pell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. George S. Martin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. Paul Horsford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Members of the House of Assembly, &c.

COPIES

Hon. Thomas Sanderson, Speaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. William Lee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. Thomas F. Nibbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. John Athill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

James Scotland, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. John Gray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Francis Byam Ottley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Thomas Furgusson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

William Thibou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

R. B. Eldredge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John Osborn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James W. Sheriff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Samuel Auchinleck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Jos. L. Bindon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

D. H. Allan, (Whitehaven) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

George Athill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James Athill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Gedney C. Bispham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Godschall Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

William Gordon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Horace Turner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

William H. Thompson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John Boyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

J. E. Sanderson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Charles Murray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John Hosier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

W. H. Grant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

N. J. Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

J. H. More . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Robert Erskine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

William S. Odlum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Robert Humphreys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Edward Wesston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James Thibou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

R. K. Nanton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James Madgwick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Paul Horsford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Thomas Prizgar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Robert Armstrong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

J. Burke Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James E. Geddes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

George Ewart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John McDonald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James Gordon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

George Cranstoun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

J. Barrett . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

W. T. Gore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

H. Perrott, 59th Regiment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Gilbert Auchinleck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

A. Duncan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

William L. Nibbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

M. Capdestaing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James F. Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Samuel L. Bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

T. H. Morrison . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John Haining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Henry Simpson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Thomas Barry Nibbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

N. Humphreyes, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Charles Robertson, Sen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

William Kelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John Benjamin Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Joseph Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

George Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

William C. Brookes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

A. McDowal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

R. W. Baxter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John F. Smyth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Ed. F. Grant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Rev. H. G. Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James Scotland, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Patrick Cadell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

John Gow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Richard Higginbotham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Thomas C. Walter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John W. Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Richard Wilson, (Mico School) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Dr. J. Anderson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Thomas Gordon, (English Harbour) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Charles Boison . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Francis Critchton, (Rose's Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Charles McGuire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Jeremiah R. Nibbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John B. Lowry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Robert T. Pooler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Mrs. Freeland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Captain Kennedy, Brig, "British Queen." . . . . . . . . . . 1

J. C. Milward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Henry T. Pigot, (Villa Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

C. W. More . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Jos. Lavicount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

William Simpson, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Rev. J. B. Wilkinson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

William Walker, P. M. G. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Dr. Carmault . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

P. P. Walter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

David Armour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Charles Robertson, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Thomas H. Hyndman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James Boyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John Ashford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Thomas W. Scholar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

William Grant, (Freeman's Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Bradfoot Taber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Thomas Doyle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Dr. Thomas Nicholson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Edward Liscombe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James C. Wesston, M.D. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Robert Kennedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Robert Lindsay, A. C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

D. Cranstoun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Oswald Wood, M.D. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

G. J. Watkins, (Lavington's Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

J. P. Maynard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Captain W. C. Johnson, Brig "Ludlow" . . . . . . . . . . . 1

D. Malone, (English Harbour) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

D. Scarville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

J. P. Guilmett . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

W. Isaacs, (English Harbour) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

J. Hart, Superintendent of Naval Yard . . . . . . . . . . . 1

------ Nugent, 59th Regiment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

------ Peebles, ditto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Rev. James Curtin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Thomas Clarke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

George Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Alonzo Hurst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Henry Trew, Collector H. M. C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

T. A. Benjamin, D. O. S. K. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

George S. Bladen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John Ledger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

W. G. Dumeresque, H. M. C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

F. H. Price, H. M. C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hinton Simpson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

J. J. Ronan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Jos. Sherrington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

John Winter, Chief of Police . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

G. B. Cadelle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

W. A. Ross Willock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

J. R. Haynes, (Folly Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James Goodwin, (Mount Lucy Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Thomas Bryan, (Elliot's Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Jno. M. Donovan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Frederick Kysh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Richard Abbot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

William Howell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

R. S. White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

J. Fulton Author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Dr. Henry French . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Captain Fred. Simpson, "Miranda" (ship) . . . . . . . . . . 1

James Stewart, (Hermitage Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Samuel M. Richard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Lieutenant Bulman, H. M. S. "Fair Rosamond" . . . . . . . . 1

C. F. Fox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Mrs. Storrock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James Connor, (English Harbour) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Jno. Rodney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Robert Gregory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Henry Elliot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Brodie G. McNish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Andrew Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Mat. Cockburn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Mrs. T. C. Walter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Dr. Jno. Furlong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

James W. Boyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Wm. Fairclough . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

St. Christopher's.

COPIES

Horatio Adlum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Joseph McLachlane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Private Subscription Rooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

C. Hay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

William Padmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Messrs. Dinzey and Peterson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

C. McMahon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Rev. William Frazer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Henry Woodcock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

C. A. Tapshire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

N. J. Lynch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Robert Nimmo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. R. Claxton, Attorney-General . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. R. B. Cleghorn, President of Nevis . . . . . . . . . . 1

H. Harding, (Nevis) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

James Thensteat, (Dominica) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Fortunatus Larrica, (Madeira) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

T. L. Foster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

F. Burk, (Monserrat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

England.

COPIES

Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen Dowager . . . . . . .

Sir T. Fowel Buxton, Bart., Northrepps, Norfolk . . . . . . 4

Lord James O'Bryen, 15, North Crescent, Bath . . . . . .

Sir George Thomas, Weymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Captain G. B. Mathew, Carlton Club . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Lieutenant Parsons, R.N., Southampton . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Rev. William Palmer, Rector, Eynesbury, Hunts . . . . . . . 1

Joseph Liggins, Esq., Mincing-lane, London . . . . . . . . 2

Rev. Daniel F. Warner, Rector, Hoo, Rochester . . . . . . . 1

Mrs. Byam, Byam House, Brighton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Edward S. Byam, Esq., Cheltenham . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hon. and Rev. Richard Burgh Byam, Vicar of

Kew and Petersham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Mrs. Engleharte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Mrs. John Walter, Bridge-street, Blackfriars . . . . . . . 1

L. C. Lecesne, Esq., Fenchurch-buildings . . . . . . . . . 1

Lewis F. Bellot, Esq., Barge-yard Chambers, Bucklersbury . 1

James McKie, Esq., Bucklersbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Edward Byam Wyke, Esq., Ealing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Rev. Sam. Ashton Warner, Rector of St. George's, Antigua . 1

Shirley Warner, Esq., Stipendiary Magistrate, Montserrat . 1

John Dawson, Esq., Whitehaven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS,

ETC.

CHAPTER I.

General Description of the Island--Appearance--Soil--

Productions--Climate--Early history--Discovery by Columbus--

Attempted settlement by Spaniards--Grant to Earl of Carlisle--

Settlement by d'Esnambuc--Williams--Governor Warner--Account of

Sir Thomas Warner, founder of the family.

The Island of Antigua, one of the great Antilles, is situated in

the Caribbean Sea, about twenty-five miles to the north-east of

Montserrat, and forty miles north of Guadaloupe, in latitude

seventeen degrees north, and longitude sixty-two degrees, or

thereabouts, the measurement in these respects not being more

exact than those of its length and breadth, which are variously

stated at 21, 20, and 18 miles for its length, and 21, 20, and

17, for its breadth. The lower estimate is, however, most

probably correct. Its circumference, again, is variously stated

at from 50 to 80 miles, and its total area from 59,838 acres, to

108 square miles, or nearly 70,000 acres. The population in 1837,

consisted of 2000 whites and coloured people, and 33,000 blacks.

All the slaves in the island were enfranchised in 1834.

The island is of an oval shape. On the first approach the coast

appears rough and barren, but as the voyager draws nearer, hills

and valleys open on his view, and the shore puts on an appearance

of luxuriant vegetation. The country possesses little of a

mountainous character, the highest elevation reaching only to the

height of 1210 feet above the level of the sea. The soil varies

according to the situation; that of the valleys and low lands

consisting of a rich, black mould, on a substratum of clay; and

unless in seasons of excessive drought, to which this island is

peculiarly subject, remarkably productive. The soil of the high

lands, on the other hand, is a stiff, reddish clay, on a

substratum of marl, and is much less productive, abounding, as it

does, with a species of grass extremely difficult to extirpate;

and the increase of which has even caused some lands, formerly

cultivated, to be abandoned. With the exception of such tracts,

and of a small part totally unimprovable, the whole island may be

said to be under cultivation. The staple production is sugar; a

little cotton is cultivated; but all other articles of commerce,

with the exception of sugar, are neglected. The quantities of

ground provisions, as yams, eddoes, sweet potatoes, &c., grown in

favourable seasons, is very considerable.

The most remarkable circumstance connected with Antigua is the

want of fresh-water springs, there being but two or three of

them, wholly inadequate to the wants of the population. This want

is supplied by tanks, in which the rain water is preserved, and

found to be particularly wholesome and agreeable, being light and

pleasing to the palate.

The climate is remarkable for want of moisture, although the

average fall of rain is forty-five inches. It is considered one

of the most healthy in the West Indies.

The history of Antigua may be said to commence with its discovery

by Columbus, for although it was at that period, and

subsequently, frequented by the Caribs, they appear not to have

made it a place of permanent residence; the want of water, which

caused European settlers so long to neglect the island, deterring

them also from establishing themselves upon it. For an account of

the Caribs, and of their probable origin, the reader is referred

to the chapters devoted to that interesting subject; and we shall

now proceed to the history of the settlement of the island and of

its internal administration down to the present time, reserving

for future chapters those sketches of the island, and its

inhabitants, which are the result of personal experience.

It was not until his second voyage, in the year 1493, that

Columbus discovered Antigua. He landed with a party, but finding,

on examination, that it was peopled only by a few Caribs, who

possessed nothing that was serviceable to the Spaniards, and who

were, probably, only casual visitants, and that the island was

destitute of fresh water, he contented himself with giving it a

name, Antigua, from the church of St. Mary of Antigua, at

Seville, and abandoned it. There is a tradition that the name

given to the island by the natives was "Xaymaca," signifying the

"land of springs;" but whether this "lucus a non lucendo" was a

specimen of Caribbean wit, or, more probably, arose from a

mistake on the part of the European visitants, is uncertain.

Antigua remained neglected by all the various European

adventurers, who hastened in crowds to other more favoured spots,

until the year 1520, when a small party of Spaniards, under the

Licentiate Don Antonio Serrano, who had received letters-patent

from the King of Spain to colonize Antigua, Montserrat, Barbadu,

Deseada, Dominica, and Martinique, landed, and driving off the

few Caribs they found there, attempted to establish themselves;

but after a short stay they abandoned it, and the island remained

without a European claimant until the year 1627, when the Earl of

Carlisle obtained a grant of Barbados, Antigua, and the rest of

the Leeward Islands, from Charles I. This grant was opposed by

the Earl of Marlborough, on the plea of a prior grant from James

I., which was, however, eventually compromised, and the Earl of

Carlisle was recognised as the sole proprietor. He, however,

contented himself with settling Barbados; and although Antigua

was colonized in his lifetime, yet neither he nor his son, who

died without issue in 1660, and in whom the family honours became

extinct, appear to have ever interested themselves in Antigua, or

to have exercised any rights of ownership or property. In fact,

the first permanent occupation of the island appears to have been

a mere private speculation, and to have excited little notice or

inquiry, since it is still a question who was the first actual

settler.

In the year 1629, Mons. d'Esnambuc, the captain of a French

privateer, made an attempt at a settlement, but the want of water

drove him away after a very short stay; so short, indeed, that

although a party of English settlers seem to have been upon the

island, he did not remain long enough to discover them. The

assertion, however, that English colonists were then on the

island, rests solely on a tradition that William Herbert, Earl of

Pembroke, who interested himself greatly in the colonization of

the West Indies, sent out his friend and countryman, Mr.

Williams, (the father of Colonel Rowland Williams, renowned in

Antiguan story, as having been the first white child born on the

island,) to attempt a settlement in Antigua. As Lord Pembroke

died in April 1630, it does not appear probable that Mr.

Williams' settlement was later than 1629. If he were not the

first, there is no doubt he was one of the first settlers, and an

estate at Old Road, still in possession of his descendant, is

pointed out as the spot he made choice of for his residence,

which, as it is in the neighbourhood of the best spring in the

island, now known as "Tom Moore's Spring," is extremely likely to

have been the case. A fact that strengthens the probability of

Mr. Williams being the first settler is, that Mr. Warner, who

unquestionably conducted a party to Antigua from St. Kitts, in

1632, fixed his residence near the same spot, which it is natural

he should do, for the sake of companionship, but built a cistern,

whose ruins are still to be seen in the savannah, which he need

not have done, had not the scanty spring been already

appropriated.

In the year 1632, General Sir Thomas Warner, at that time, by the

sanction of the Earl of Carlisle, the legal proprietor, and,

under warrant from the king, Governor of St. Christopher, Nevis,

Barbados, and Montserrat, sent his son Edward, a captain in the

army, with a sufficient party, to colonize Antigua, which design

he carried into effect, and during the remainder of his life

continued to act as governor, although we have discovered no

evidence of his having ever possessed, either as principal or

deputy, any warrant for assuming the title, or executing the

functions of governor, except so far as his father, as agent for

the Earl of Carlisle, the lord proprietor of the island, might be

considered as vested with authority; for in his commission from

the crown, no mention is made of Antigua.

The name of Warner being thus distinguished in the annals of

Antigua, we may be excused for making a digression upon the

history of its founder, more especially as it affords a good

illustration of the process of colonization in our West Indian

and American possessions.

General Sir Thomas Warner was a scion of an ancient and

distinguished English family; but from being a younger son, he

was obliged to use personal efforts, in order to effect an

honourable passage through life. Having entered into the army at

an early age, and attained the rank of captain, he accompanied

Roger North, brother of Lord North, in his expedition to Guiana,

a country which was then looked upon as a perfect _Eldorado_.

Here he became acquainted with a Captain Painton, a great

navigator of those times, and one who had well studied the then

all-engrossing subject of colonization.

This gentleman suggested to Captain Warner how much more facility

would attend a settlement in one of the smaller islands, than in

a country so extensive as Guiana; and from his own personal

experience, he thought St. Christopher's (at that time unoccupied

by any European power) would be an island particularly adapted

for the exercise of a daring spirit, in the way of planting a

settlement.

These suggestions of his friend appear to have made due

impression upon the mind of Mr. Warner; for in 1620, after the

death of Captain Painton, he resolved to return to England, and

endeavour to procure the aid of some kindred spirit, in order to

put his designs into execution. Having so far succeeded in his

plans as to procure all necessary arrangements for establishing a

colony, Mr. Warner again left England, accompanied by his wife

and son, Edward, (who was a captain in the army at the early age

of thirteen, and who was afterwards appointed first governor of

Antigua,) and a small party of followers,[1] and embarked on

board a vessel bound for Virginia, whence himself and party

proceeded to St. Christopher's, where they arrived 28th January,

1623. Mr. Warner, as head of the settlers, commenced immediately

the task of cultivation, in which he so far progressed as to

raise a crop of tobacco, which was unfortunately destroyed in the

severe hurricane of the 19th of the following September.

During this period, the movements of the English were diligently

observed by the Caribs, who, instigated by three Frenchmen,

(supposed to have been cast upon the island by a former storm,)

at length made an outbreak upon the English, and retarded in some

measure their work of cultivation.

By the end of the following February, Mr. Warner had another crop

of tobacco ready for exportation; and the ship Hopewell

(commanded by Captain Jefferson) arriving on the 4th March, 1624,

from London, bringing fresh supplies for the infant colony, a few

emigrants, and goods with which to trade with the Caribs, Mr.

Warner resolved to return in her to England, in order to obtain

more powerful assistance. He accordingly embarked himself and his

first-gathered crop on board the "Hopewell," and once more sought

the shores of England, to receive the congratulations of his

friends, and search for a patron who would enable him to carry

out further his plans of colonization.

Between that period and 1625, Mr. Warner was employed in voyaging

backwards and forwards from St. Christopher's and England,

leaving the cares of the government to his son, Edward Warner,

(of whom Du Tertre speaks very handsomely,) until, having gained

a friend and patron in the Earl of Carlisle, he was introduced at

the court of the then reigning sovereign, Charles I. This monarch

was so pleased with Mr. Warner's indefatigable and patriotic

spirit, that he was graciously pleased to grant him a commission,

(signed 13th Sept. 1625,) constituting him governor over the

"foure islands of St. Christopher's, Nevis, Barbados, and

Mountserrate,"[2] and on the 21st September, 1629, knighted him

at Hampton Court Palace.[3]

Some of Sir Thomas Warner's descendants have filled the highest

situations in Antigua, administering the government at times. Nor

is the family extinct, for many there are who can trace their

descent in a direct line from this great founder of four

flourishing colonies. One of these was in 1838 "gathered to his

fathers;" he was esteemed as an able legislator, and fulfilled

his duties as president of the council, brigadier-general of the

militia, and occasionally lieutenant-governor, with integrity. As

this family ranks among the first aristocrats of the island, a

more particular account of their lineal descent may not be deemed

superfluous, and will be found in the Appendix, No. 2.

------

[1] The names of these adventurous few were as follows:--William

Tasted, John Rhodes, Robert Bims, Mr. Benifield, Sergeant Jones,

Mr. Ware, William Ryle, Rowland Grasscocke, Mr. Bond, Mr.

Langley, Mr. Weaver, Sergeant Aplon, one sailor, and a cook.

[2] Vide copy of the first commission granted, No. 1, Appendix.

[3] Sir Thomas Warner died at St Christopher's in 1648. His tomb

is still to be met with in the parish church for the township of

Old Road, (a place which derives its name from the involuntary

exclamation of Columbus upon his second visit to St.

Christopher's, "Ah! we are at the _old road_ again,") the

inscription upon which is as follows:--

An Epitaph vpon Th-------------------

Noble & Mvch Lamented Genrl Sir

Tho. Warner, Kt Lievtenant

General of ye Carribee

Ielands & Goverr of ye

Ieland of St Christopher

Who Departed This

Life the 10th of

March 1648.

First Read then weepe when thou art hereby taught,

That Warner lyes interr'd here, one that bought,

With losse of Noble bloud Illustrious Name,

Of A Comander Greate in Acts of Fame.

Trayn'd from his youth in Armes, his courage bold,

Attempted braue Exploites, and vncontrold

By fortunes fiercest Frownes, hee still gaue forth

Large Narratiues of Military worth.

----ritten with his sword's poynt, but what is man

-------the midst of his glory, and who can

----------this Life A moment, since that hee

-------------by Sea and Land, so longe kept free

-----------al, Mortal Strokes at length did yeeld

------------ace) to conquering Death the field,

fini Coronat.

The black lines shew where the marble is broken, or the letters

from some other cause are quite obliterated.

Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume 1 (of 2) A full account of the colony and its inhabitants from the time of the Caribs to the present day · 第 1 / 28 章