Every cook thinks he can cook potatoes, but the number that can cook
them well is very small. Put the potatoes, with their skins on, into
the kettle, first washing them; then fill it with cold water, throw in
a handful of salt, and put it on the fire. When the water boils, throw
in a little cold water to check it; do so two or three times. When the
potatoes are very nearly cooked, pour off _all_ the water, and
stand the kettle over the fire until the steam evaporates. If this
does not make them mealy it is the fault of the potatoes. The potatoes
should always be picked out of uniform size for each kettle, as they
boil more equally.