Fort Garry under new aspects.--Social Societies.--An Old
Friend.--“Pony” the perverse.
The long, hot, dusty American summer was drawing to a close. The
sand-fly had had his time, the black-fly had run his round, the
mosquito had nearly bitten himself to death, and during that operation
had rendered existence unbearable to several millions of the human
race. The quiet tranquil fall-time had followed the fierce wasting
summer, and all nature seemed to rest and bask in the mellow radiance
of September.
It was late in the month of September, 1872, when, after a summer of
travel in Canada and the United States, I drew near the banks of the
Red River of the North. Two years had worked many changes in scene and
society; a railroad had reached the river; a “city” stood on the spot
where, during a former visit, a midnight storm had burst upon me in the
then untenanted prairie. Three steamboats rolled the muddy tide of the
winding river before their bluff, ill-shapen bows. Gambling-houses and
drinking-saloons, made of boards and brown paper, crowded the black,
mud-soaked streets. A stage-coach ran north to Fort Garry 250 miles,
and along the track rowdyism was rampant. Horse-stealing was prevalent,
and in the “city” just alluded to two murderers walked quietly at
large. In fine, the land which borders the Red River, Minnesota, and
Dakota, had been thoroughly _civilized_.
But civilization had worked its way even deeper into the North-west.
The place formerly known as Fort Garry had civilized into the shorter
denomination of “Garry;” the prairie around the Fort had corner
lots which sold for more hundreds of dollars than they possessed
frontage-feet; and society was divided in opinion as to whether the
sale which called forth these prices was a “bogus” one or not.
Representative institutions had been established in the new province
of Manitoba, and an election for members of Parliament had just been
concluded. Of this triumph of modern liberty over primeval savagery, it
is sufficient to say, that the great principle of freedom of election
had been fully vindicated by a large body of upright citizens, who,
in the freest and most independent manner, had forcibly possessed
themselves of the poll-books, and then fired a volley from revolvers,
or, in the language of the land, “emptied their shooting-irons” into
another body of equally upright citizens, who had the temerity to
differ with them as to the choice of a political representative.
Civilization had also developed itself in other ways. Several national
societies had been founded, and were doing prosperously. There was a
St. George’s Society and a St. Andrew’s Society, and, I think, also a
St. Patrick’s Society. Indeed the memory of these saints appears to
be held in considerable reputation in the New World. According to the
prospectus and programme of these societies, charity appears to be
the vital principle of each association: sick Scotchmen, emigrating
English, and indigent Irish, were all requested to come forward and
claim relief at the hands of the wealthier sons of St. Andrew, St.
George, and St. Patrick. Charity, which is said to begin at home,
and which, alas! too frequently ends there also, having thus had its
commencement in the home circle, seemed determined to observe all
home-like institutions; and the annual dinner was of necessity a very
important item in the transactions of each society.
Amidst all these changes of scene and society there was one thing still
unchanged on the confines of the Red River. Close to the stream, at
the place known as the Point of Frogs, an old friend met me with many
tokens of recognition. A tried companion was he through many long days
of wintry travel. There, as fresh and hearty as when I had parted from
him two years before, stood Cerf-vola, the Esquimaux dog who had led
my train from Cumberland, on the Lower Saskatchewan, across the ice
of the great Lakes. Of the four dogs he alone remained. Two years is
a long time in the life of any dog, but still a longer period in that
of a hauling-dog; and Cerf-vola’s comrades of that date, Muskeymote,
Cariboo, and Tigre had gone the way of all earthly things.
To become the owner of this old friend again, and of his new companions
Spanker and Pony, was a work of necessity; and I quitted the Point
of Frogs by the steamboat “Selkirk” with three hauling-dogs in my
possession. Strong and stout as of yore; clean-limbed, long-woolled,
deep-chested; with ears pointed forward and tail close curled over his
broad back, Cerf-vola still stood the picture of an Esquimaux.
Of the other two dogs, Pony was a half-breed, and Spanker, sharp, keen,
and restless, was like his leader, a pure Husky; but, unlike the older
dog, his nature was wild and fierce: some malignant guardian of his
youth had despoiled him of the greater part of his tail, and by doing
so had not a little detracted from his personal appearance.
[Illustration: CERF-VOLA, THE ESQUIMAUX DOG.]
As these three animals will be my constant companions during many
months, through many long leagues of ice and snow, I have here sketched
their outward semblance with some care. Civilization and a steamboat
appeared to agree but poorly with my new friends. Spanker, failing in
making his teeth emancipate his own neck, turned all his attention
towards freeing his companion, and after a deal of toil he succeeded
in gnawing Pony loose. This notable instance of canine abnegation (in
which supporters of the Darwinian theory will easily recognize the
connecting link between the Algerine captives assisting each other to
freedom, &c., &c., after the manner of the Middle Ages), resulted in
the absconding of the dog Pony, who took advantage of the momentary
grounding of the steamer to jump on shore and disappear into the
neighbouring forest.
It was a wild, tempestuous night; the storm swept the waters of the Red
River until at length the steamboat was forced to seek her moorings
against the tree-lined shore. Here was a chance of recovering the lost
dog. Unfortunately the boat lay on the Dakota side, and the dog was at
large somewhere on the Minnesota shore, while between the stormy water
heaved in inky darkness. How was the capture to be effected?
As I stood on the lower deck of the steamboat, pondering how to cross
the dark river, a man paddled a small skiff close to the boat’s side.
“Will you be good enough to put me across the river?” I asked.
“I’ve no darned time to lose a night like this,” he answered, “but if
you want to cross jump in.” The lantern which he carried showed the
skiff to be half-filled with water, but the chance was too good to be
lost. I sprang in, and we shot away over the rough river. Kneeling in
the bottom of the boat I held the lantern aloft, while my gruff comrade
paddled hard. At last we touched the shore; clambering up the wet,
slippery bank, I held the light amidst the forest; there, not twenty
paces distant, stood Pony.
“Pony, poor fellow, good dog, come, Pony, cess, cess, poor old boy.”
Alas! all the alluring dogisms by which we usually attract the animal
were now utterly useless, and the more I cried “Here, here,” the
more the wretch went there, there. Meanwhile my boating friend grew
impatient; I could hear him above the storm shouting and cursing at me
with great volubility: so I made my way back to the shore, gave him
his lantern, and went back into the forest, while he shot out into the
darkness of the river.
Every now and again I heard the brute Pony close to me in the
brushwood. For some time I wandered on; suddenly a light glimmered
through the wet trees: approaching the light I found it to issue from
an Indian wigwam, and at my summons two or three half-clad creatures
came out. There was a dog lost in the woods, would they get lights and
help me to catch him? a dollar would be the reward. The dollar threw
a new light upon the matter. Burning brands were instantly brought
forth from the wigwam fire, but with little result; the vagabond Pony,
now utterly scared out of all semblance of dog wit, sought safety in
the deepest recesses of the forest, from whence he poured forth howls
into the night. I returned to the river, and with the aid of my wigwam
friends regained the steamboat. Half an hour later the man on watch saw
a dark object swimming around the boat; it was the lost dog. Cerf-vola,
tied in the rain as a lure, had continued to howl without intermission,
and the vagrant Pony had evidently come to the conclusion that there
were worse places on a wet autumnal night than the warm deck of the
steamboat “Selkirk.”
In the earliest days of October all phases of civilization were passed
with little regret; and at the Rat Creek, near the southern shore of
Lake Manitoba, I bid good-bye to society. The party was a small one--a
member of the Imperial Legislature, well known in Ireland, now _en
route_ to get a glimpse of the great solitudes ere winter had closed
in, his servant, mine own, five horses, and two carts.