April 3, 1901.--It was not without regret, that found expression at a
banquet given me on the eve preceding my departure, by Mr. Erlington,
the German Consul at Tamatave, that I took my leave of Madagascar, when
the flags of the officials of the French Residency and flags of all the
foreign consuls were flying, honoring me with a kindly farewell. A jolly
French friend of mine, who came out to the steamer to see me off, said:
"Judge, don't you be too sure of the meaning of the flags flying at your
departure from Tamatave, for we demonstrate here for gladness, as well
as for regret." "Well," I replied, "in either event I am in unison with
the sentiment intended to be expressed; for I have both gladness and
regret--gladness with anticipations of home, and with regret that, in
all human probability, I am taking leave of a community from whom for
nearly four years I have been the recipient, officially, of the highest
respect; and socially of unstinted friendliness."
[Illustration: CHARLES W. CHESNUTT.
A Distinguished Colored Writer--Author of "The House Behind the Cedars,"
"The Wife of My Youth," "The Conjure Woman," "The Morrow of
Tradition"--All Sparkling with Justice, Wisdom, and Wit.]
I found Vice-Consul Hunt had secured and had had my baggage placed in a
desirable state room. The ringing of the bell notified all
non-passengers ashore. After hearty handshakes from the Vice-Consul,
German, French, and other friends, taking with them a bottle or two of
wine that had been previously placed where it would do the most good,
they took the consular boat, and with the Stars and Stripes flying, and
handkerchiefs waving a final farewell, they were pulled ashore. The
anchor weighs, and the good ship "Yantse" inhales a long, moist, and
heated breath and commences to walk with stately strides and quickened
pace--weather charming and the sea as quiet as a tired child. The next
day a stop at the Island of St. Maria, a French possession, and on the
fifth day at Diego Suarez, on the north end of Madagascar.
On the ninth day from Tamatave we entered the Gulf of Aden, and after
some hours dropped anchor at Camp Aden, in Arabia. Mr. Byramzie, a
Tamatave friend of mine, and of the London firm of Dadabhoy & Co., with
a branch at Aden, came off to meet me and accompany me ashore. Camp Aden
is a British fortification I cannot readily describe with reference to
its topography or the heterogenous character and pursuits of its
inhabitants. Nature was certainly in no passive mood when last it flung
its constituents together; for, with the exception of a few circling
acres forming a rim around the harbor, high, broken, and frowning
battlements of rock, ungainly and sterile, look down upon you as far as
the eye can reach. No sprig, or tree, or blade of grass takes root in
its parched soil or stony bed, or survives the blasting heat. Scattered
and dotted on crag, hilltop or slope, in glaring white, are the many
offices and residence buildings of the camp. While in hidden crevices
and forbidden paths are planted the most approved armament, with its
"dogs of war" to dispute a passage from the Gulf.
In a dilapidated four-wheeler, drawn by one horse, after considerable
time spent by my friend in agreeing on terms (concerning which I pause
to remark that these benighted Jehus can give a Bowery cabman points on
"how not to do it"), over a macadam road of five miles we reach Aden
proper--the site of hotels, stores and residences with little
pretensions to architectural beauty; the buildings are quite all
constructed of stone, that material being in superabundance on every
intended site; their massive walls contributing to a cool interior
indispensable as a refuge from the blistering heat. Pure water for
drinking is a luxury, spasmodic in its supply. I once heard an hilarious
Irish song that stated:
"We are jolly and happy, for we know without doubt,
That the whisky is plenty, and the water is out."
This, I learn is the normal condition at Aden as to the relative status
of whisky and water--a very elysium for the toper who could not
understand why whisky should be spoiled by mixing it with water.
Rains are infrequent and well water unpalatable. Sea water is distilled,
but the mineral and health-giving qualities are said to be absent. The
water highly prized and sold is the rainwater caught in tanks. Hollowed
out at the foot of the rock hills, there are numbers of peculiar
construction, connected and on different elevations. But for the last
three years the non-rainfall has kept them without a tenant. As I looked
in them not a drop sparkled within their capacious confines; they are
seldom filled, and the supply is ever deficient. The population is from
6,000 to 8,000, amid which the Parsee, the Mohammedan, Jew, Portuguese,
and other nationalities compete for the commerce of the interior. The
natives are of varied castes, the Samiles the most energetic and
prevailing type. The inferior classes go about almost naked and live in
long, unprepossessing structures, one story high, divided into single
rooms, rude and uncleanly.
While at Aden I availed myself of the honor and pleasure of a visit to
the American Consulate, and received a warm, jolly, and spiritual
welcome from the incumbent, the Hon. E. T. Cunningham, of Knoxville,
Tenn. Mr. Cunningham intended to stay at Aden for six months. Like
"linked sweetness long drawn out," that period has extended to three
years, and is now "losing its sweetness on the desert air." He stated
that he was not infatuated with those "scarlet days" and "Arabian
nights," and is seeking relief or placement amid more congenial
surroundings, where distance (does not) "lend enchantment to the view."
But I assured him the Department was as astute as selfish. It knows when
it has a good thing, and endeavors to keep it. Mr. Cunningham has proved
himself to be an efficient and trusted official. We parted with mutual
hope of again meeting in "the land of the cotton and the corn."
On my way to the landing I passed many convoys of camels and asses,
laden with coffee, it being one of the main articles of export. Arriving
at the steamer and bidding my Parsee friend a last, long farewell,
shortly we weighed anchor and away for a five days sail to Suez.
On the 17th of April, eventful to me, being my birthday, we arrived at
Suez for a short stay, without time or inclination to go ashore. But,
seeing the Stars and Stripes flying from a ship lying in the distance, I
could not withstand the temptation. Jumping into a native sailboat that
described every point of the compass with oars and adverse wind, I
reached the United States cruiser, "New York." Capt. Rodgers and his
gentlemanly officers gave me a very cordial reception, ensuring an
enjoyable visit. Capt. Rodgers informed me that Lieutenant Poundstone
was aboard, who knew me as a "promoter" for the Smithsonian Institute at
Washington, he having been aboard the "Chicago" when it visited
Tamatave, and when Admiral Howison declined to convey my "gay and
festive" collection of wild animals to America. I would be most happy to
see him. He soon appeared with pleasant greetings and recollections of
Tamatave incidents. My stay from ship being limited, after a chat,
mingled with sherry and cigars and an expression of regret from Capt.
Rodgers that, not being in our "bailiwick," he could not give me a
consular salute from his guns, he ordered the ship's steam launch, and,
escorted by the Lieutenant, under our national banner, I soon boarded my
ship. I was much indebted to Capt. Rodgers and officers for their
charming courtesy.
Leaving Suez at mid-day, we shortly enter the Suez Canal--85 miles, with
numerous tie-ups to allow other ships the right of way.
At 8 o'clock the following morning we dropped anchor at Port Said, a
populous city of Arabia with 30,000 inhabitants, much diversified as to
nativities, Turks, Assyrians, Jews, and Greeks being largely
represented. The city is quite prepossessing, and seems to have improved
its sanitary features since my visit four years ago. There are many
charming views; an interesting place for the tourist, alike for the
virtuous and the vicious, for those so inclined can see human nature
"unadorned." Wide streets pierce the city, the stores on which are a
continuous bazaar, lined with many exquisite productions of necessity
and Eastern art. But I have previously dwelt on Port Said peculiarities.
Leaving Port Said on the 18th, our good ship soon enters the
Mediterranean, and with smooth seas passes through the Straits of
Messina, with a fine view of Mt. Etna, as of yore, belching forth flames
and smoke, with Sicily on our left and Italy and her cities on our
right. Again entering the Mediterranean, we encounter our first rough
seas and diminution of guests at the table. Neptune, who had been
lenient for 17 days, now demanded settlement before digestion should
again be allowed to resume its sway. For myself, I was like and unlike
the impecunious boarder, who "never missed a meal nor paid a cent," but
like him only in constant attendance, for I could ill-afford to miss any
part of the pleasure of transit or menu costing $10 a day--happy,
however, that I was minus "mal de mer," seasickness. But this temporary
ailment of the passengers was soon banished by another phase of ocean
travel, that of being enveloped in a fog so dense that the ship's length
could not be seen ahead from the bow--every officer of the ship alert,
the fog horn blowing its warnings at short intervals, answered by the
"ships that pass in the night" of fogs. The anxiety of the passengers
that the fog would lift was relieved after 36 hours, and our ship hied
away and reached Marseilles on the 23d. From there by rail to Paris.
Ensconced again at the "Hotel Binda," the next day I visited the site of
the great Paris Exposition. Few of the buildings were in their entirety,
but what remained of the classic beauty of their construction shone the
more vivid amid the debris of demolition that surrounded them. The
French were not enthusiastic in relation to the financial benefit of the
exposition.
A few days in Paris, and thence to Cherbourg to cross the English
Channel to Southampton, London. This channel, which has a well-merited
reputation for being gay and frolicsome, was extremely gracious,
allowing us to glide over its placid bosom with scarce a tremor.